Tuning has always been considered a way to highlight your car from the general monotony. At the same time, proper tuning can not only visually improve the car, but also make it more comfortable and practical. Today, a large number of owners of creations domestic auto industry torment their cars with low-quality modernization, which further shortens the life of the car. But if you approach the issue of tuning correctly, then your car will last you much longer. Let's look at an example domestic UAZ 3303. Tuning this car is a very common thing that makes you feel like a real mechanic.

Thanks to domestic engineers

Domestic engineers designed the car so that the owner has wide range actions that can be carried out in a UAZ 3303 car. Do-it-yourself tuning is completely easy to do even in your garage. But still you need to know certain features of the structure of this car. You have the ability to customize undercarriage, appearance, as well as add comfort to the interior of your UAZ 3303. Cabin tuning will consist of modernizing and strengthening the hull, so after the improvement, the car can be safely called an SUV. As a rule, modernization also concerns the wheelbase. tuning which is carried out most often, has a wide profile off-road tires and power kit. But everything is in order.

Rubber replacement

The first thing to do for your car is to change the wheels. The tuned UAZ 3303 will be an indispensable friend for you on hunting, fishing or just when traveling on a clear off-road. In the forests of our country, shallow rivers are often found, and after heavy rains, most of the land is submerged in mud. Therefore, the right decision would be to install rubber that is able to overcome such obstacles. Perfect Size such rubber can reach 25 inches. UAZ 3303, the tuning of which you are going to do, also needs to strengthen the suspension.

Strengthening the car frame

The fact is that the installation of large tires entails possible damage to the car's suspension, which is simply not designed for such fraud. In addition, the procedure for raising the suspension will protect you from possible damage by the wheel arches of the new rubber. Yes, and the car will gain hitherto unprecedented off-road patency, which is full of pits and other irregularities.

Similar results can be achieved by spending time installing spacers. UAZ 3303, the tuning of which you are going to carry out, must have a reinforced bottom, and if the car does not have such a characteristic, you need to take care of its installation. The reasons for the need to provide underbody protection are frequent hits of large branches under the car.

Winch installation

Now let's move on to the winch. On off-road terrain, situations often arise in which you will have to get out of trouble on your own. When you are stuck in the mud, and there is not a single soul around, the winch will become your savior. In addition, you will have the opportunity to help your comrades on the road. On the UAZ 3303, you can install both electric and the difference between these types is significant, because the latter is more reliable, it is preferred by most off-road lovers. Hydraulics have the advantage of being more powerful and powered by an engine that builds up pressure. Its electric competitor works through the battery, which reduces the lifespan of the latter.

To strengthen the cabin, a kenguryatnik is installed. This roll bar will help you when the machine comes into contact with trees and other obstacles, and the placement of spotlights above the cab will come in handy at night. You can also carry out tuning of the cabin: make it soundproof and put more comfortable seats. If you cannot do without music, then you will need to contact the company that installs car audio in the UAZ 3303. The tuning photos look great. With the right approach from our domestic car you can just make “candy”, because even the most expensive SUV can envy the cross-country ability of this car.

In the USSR, a fairly large number of vehicles were produced for transporting goods over terrain with poor traffic. An example is the UAZ 3303, which was produced from 1966 to 1985. Despite the fact that the release of the model was completed several decades ago, the car is still in active use. To give a second life this car you can do tuning UAZ 3303 with your own hands. In this material, we will consider the work related to increasing the cross-country ability of the car.

What can be done with the car to ensure cross-country ability?

To increase the cross-country ability of the car, it is necessary to install wheels of a larger width and diameter. According to the recommendations of experts, the maximum diameter should not exceed 24 inches, otherwise the stability of the car on the road will be lost. Wheel replacement can be done as follows:

• To begin with, the car is raised to provide access to the chassis. Should be given Special attention fixing the car to ensure the safety of ongoing work.
• The next step is to trim the wings. In order to be able to install tires with a large tread and diameter, you will have to increase the space under the wheel arches.
• It is also necessary to replace standard bridges with leopard bridges, which have a large width.
• You can also improve the patency by replacing the differential. When installing a more advanced design, you can achieve the effect in which the wheels will not slip in almost any weather conditions. In addition, with an increase in the efficiency of this element, the service life of the transmission is significantly increased.
• You can also replace the springs with rear axle and front shock absorbers. It should be borne in mind that native springs have a relatively small length. Due to this, the carrying capacity and depreciation qualities are significantly reduced. Native shock absorbers will not last long, and they have the worst performance. Therefore, it is recommended to install imported ones.
• Increase ground clearance adversely affects vehicle stability. That is why it is necessary to provide for the installation of additional elements in the form of stabilizers. They are installed on the sides and allow you to maintain the required balance when entering the turn.
• An electric winch is installed, which will allow you to get out of difficult areas. In addition, a more powerful battery should be installed, which will allow you to start the car even in severe frost.
• You will also need other wheels with tires. Due to the installation of wheels of a larger diameter, the ground clearance is significantly increased. However, for this you will have to slightly change the wheel arches, cutting them to the desired level.
• With an increase in ground clearance, the stability of the car is lost when cornering. As a result, when entering a corner at high speed, there is a high chance of rollover. To increase the cross-country ability, additional stabilization elements are being installed.
• The body can also be upgraded. A common method of changing the design is to install a system that will raise the body to unload cargo. Of course, for this you will have to install the hydraulic system.

The above work will significantly increase the cross-country ability vehicle.

Preparing the body for operation in harsh conditions

In addition to the above work, you can also carry out work to change the body. Tuning can be as follows:

• The work is related to the restoration of the structure. Quite often, in order to give the car a proper look, it is necessary to restore the body and other structural elements.
• Some changes can be made, mounts for an additional body kit are created.
• Carrying out painting work.

The car in question has not been produced for many years. Therefore, there are practically no offers for sale in good condition. Repair work to restore the body are inevitable.

How to perform body restoration?

We will pay special attention to how to carry out the restoration of the body. Recommendations for this work are as follows:

1. First you need to dismantle all body elements. It is under them that rust and other defects can hide. Dismantling work will not require a lot of free time.

2. The next step is to clean paintwork. Note that in case of damage to individual sections and their restoration, it will be necessary to repaint the entire body. Paintwork can be cleaned using a variety of tools and specialty chemicals. The efficiency of further work depends on how well the surface is cleaned.

3.Next, work is carried out on trimming the areas affected by corrosion: some will have to be cut out, others simply welded - it all depends on the degree of damage. It is necessary to pay attention to where the metal will be cut: some elements of the body must withstand the load and should not be modified.

4. After trimming the affected areas, work is carried out to prepare the body for further cooking. To do this, clean the edges and remove burrs.

5. To carry out the work on cooking, you need a special welding machine, as well as experience in carrying out such work. The formation of large seams should be avoided, which then will be difficult to hide later on the paintwork.

6. After welding the formed holes, the seams should be cleaned. It is also necessary to degrease the surface in order to ensure best conditions for laying a primer layer.

7. Particular attention is paid to the preparation of the body for painting work. According to all the rules, the application of paint should take place in a closed box in order to exclude the ingress of various debris.

8. Before applying the paintwork, the surface is leveled with a primer. It gives the body a streamlined and even shape.

Important! The paint is applied in two layers, which allows you to achieve best result. In this case, the first layer is applied first, after it has completely dried, the second. For applying paint, special spray guns are used, only when they are used can the paint be applied in an even layer.

Maksim. If you need a truck to transport various goods, then you can consider upgrading the UAZ 3303. It is small, has a high cross-country ability, the body is suitable for transporting small loads. However, this car is significantly inferior to modern technically. Therefore, tuning is indispensable.

Vitaly On a suburban area, it is almost indispensable freight car. However, not everyone can afford to buy another truck. Therefore, the problem can be solved by tuning the UAZ 3303. After minor upgrades, the car will become suitable for transporting various goods.

Tuning UAZ 3303

Before you start tuning the UAZ Tadpole, you need to decide on the specific purposes of its use in order to understand what kind of alteration will be: full or partial. Partial tuning is more suitable for those drivers who do not intend to drive on serious off-road. As a result, a motorist will be able to easily pick mushrooms in the nearest forest, move along muddy rural roads.

This kind of tuning does not make significant changes to the design of the car. As a rule, it includes the installation of special rubber for dirt in the size of 31 inches, as well as a winch and a power kit. To increase comfort, you can fork out for tuning the UAZ 3303 interior.

A complete redesign of the UAZ Tadpole involves major changes to its body and side parts. It is for this reason that it takes much longer and consists of several main stages. Upon completion of such a refinement, the Tadpole will easily be able to force shallow rivers and real impassability.

The main stages of full tuning UAZ-3303 Tadpole

Stage number 1. Wheel change

To overcome serious off-road, you will have to put a special mud tires With minimum size at 33-35 inches.

Stage number 2. Raising the suspension, body UAZ 3303

This is necessary to prevent the wheels from touching the arches when cornering. In addition, the car's cross-country ability, replete with stumps and boulders, will increase. All this is achieved by installing special spacers between the body and the frame and cutting wheel arches. The suspension is raised by adding additional sheets to the springs and installing shock absorbers with a longer stroke.

Stage number 3. Winch installation

On the UAZ 3303, you can attach a hydraulic or electric winch. It is worth considering that electric models are easy to install, they can work autonomously. True, such winches are characterized by increased energy intensity, which negatively affects the battery life. The hydraulic type is considered a more reliable, powerful unit, but it works much more slowly, and its operation requires a running engine that pressurizes the system.

Photo tuning UAZ-3303 Tadpole

Having passed these main stages, you can try to conquer off-road. And if you have enough funds, you can, for example, replace Gas engine on diesel, characterized by high torque, which is necessary for driving in difficult road conditions. In addition, it is also worth strengthening the strength of the body by installing a power body kit.

Restoration, improvements, tuning UAZ-3303.
Reutov Konstantin Borisovich

Eternal story...

To write this story, I was prompted by a phenomenon that is already ordinary for many people - I changed the car, and also the thought that the experience, which will be discussed below, may be useful to someone.
My wife and I are easy-going and love nature, the children have grown up, so it was decided to change our GAZ-31029 to a more travel-friendly vehicle.
Since for out-of-town trips, on our Siberian roads, there is no more suitable car than UAZ, a guideline was adopted to search for a vehicle from this range. "Goat", i.e. The 469th, as one of the options, was almost immediately swept aside, and our eyes turned to the "nurse".
He who seeks will always find, and chance sends us an even more convenient car for our purposes, the UAZ-3303, with a van, of the “autoclub” type, manufactured by the Krasnodar mechanical plant “Kuban”.
The general opinion of our family exceeded all boundaries of pleasure at the first contact with him. And indeed: spacious salon, in which almost immediately, above the standard seats, a removable sleeping place; patency; reliability (of course, after you put your work and a lot of improvements into it), but what is in brackets, it was all waiting for us ahead, but for now we enjoyed outdoor recreation.
I am a realist by nature, and although the former owner claimed that there was a “mustache Ok”, at the very first test drive I realized that it was impossible to do without a serious “surgical” intervention. The car had absolutely no rolling, the engine vibrated terribly, the pressure gauge needle practically did not come off the stop (I must say, to my surprise, it did not change its behavior even after the MS-20 oil was filled, but miracles do not happen, and more about that later). You can’t even talk about the number of minor malfunctions, but the car suited us in terms of sociability.
There was only one question: will it “live” until the moment when I can repair it, because it was spring, and I wanted to fully enjoy communication with nature.
Safely "crawling" until the fall and, to my surprise, without tearing the "hodovka", we finally put the car in for repairs.
I’ll make a reservation right away, I have the best and only friend, and during the repair he acted as a consultant, because. all the improvements and improvements that will be discussed below were 99% developed by him, or rather, suffered through suffering, since he had a chance to work as a driver in a UAZ car for eight years. He then warned me that it was not a car and it will take much more time and effort to repair it, but how much more, I could not even imagine, and he himself did not suspect about my “new” car.
I must say that I began to prepare for repairs as soon as I “bought a pig”: a new UAZ head was purchased (because the GAZ-21 head was on the engine), the shaft was polished, and piston group. And I began to slowly acquire parts that clearly needed to be changed.
Here we should make a digression and explain why, practically knowing the condition of the car, I was not afraid to buy it. The first reason: there is not much such a layout of cars and it would hardly be possible to find another similar device. Reason two: I was not afraid because there is enough great experience locksmith work and car repair.
For two and a half years, from 1997 to 1999, when the enterprises did not pay wages (and I work as a mechanic at an energy enterprise), my friend and I, in parallel with our main work, had to professionally repair car engines. Moreover, we didn’t just sort out the motors (as the bulk of the repairmen do, and we have almost everything in the outback), but tried to carry out a real overhaul with the refinement of the engine, analyzing their mistakes and constantly improving the technology.
Then, when the situation stabilized a little and the company began to pay money little by little, I had to move away from this interesting, but difficult business - I was physically tired of working two jobs. And my friend, to this day, is engaged in car repairs, and of course, continues to gain valuable experience, I, to the best of my ability, try to keep abreast of events. We constantly communicate with him, and, I must say, we often look into the past with a smile, remembering at what level we were when we started this business.
From now on, I will begin to describe in detail all types of work and improvements that were performed during the repair.

Block head (new). Drying out the valves, we found (without much surprise) that the seats are haphazardly molded (if you can call it molding), the exhaust valves hang on the very edge, the working bevels of the seats are skewed and of various widths.
The guides are made in such a way that it was necessary to select the valves individually in order to achieve the required clearance between the valve stem and the guide, about 0.08 mm. (And all this, not an isolated case with new heads, but practically the norm.)
Valve, had to be purchased, from the head ZMZ engine-402, (because after the normal molding of the seats, the native, exhaust ones simply “failed”), and regrind the exhaust valve plates, to a diameter of 1.5 mm larger than the resulting upper size of the working chamfers of the seats. The suction valves ZMZ-402 correspond to the native UAZ ones, and "lay" on the saddles, as expected.
Another reason for replacing valves is that one-piece valves for Volgovsky engines appeared on sale, very High Quality, exhaust, in these kits, are made of non-magnetic material. Experience has shown that even when operating a car on liquefied gas, sets of these valves serve about 100 thousand kilometers, against 50 thousand for regular ones.
After molding the seats and lapping the valves, the springs were tensioned to 45 mm by lining the metal spacers under the lower spring washers. They are made individually, and in order to measure their thickness, you have to assemble the head twice, but this investment of time is worth it.
The exhaust manifold, I had to use my own, UAZ, (when trying to install a manifold with a split exhaust, with ZMZ-402, it turned out that it interferes with its middle part oil filter, and the venture had to be abandoned.). But the suction one was used from the GAZ-24, in terms of the internal section it turned out to be the largest of the suitable range and perfectly matched the head on the windows.
By the way, when I finished the engine on my 29th, I had to squander the native suction manifold quite a lot in order to coordinate it with the head, and the head “got” the same. And the only thing that had to be done on the 24th “suction” was to squander a window for the second K-151 chamber, because. the collector was originally produced under the K-126 carburetor.

Rocker shaft (new). I understand, this is already an experience. The bushings of the rocker arms are pressed randomly; The grooves themselves are located anywhere, but not opposite the holes in the shaft. (This is the ZMZ shaft, the Ulyanovsk ones are even worse.)
Hence the oil starvation in this pairing and, as a result, increased valve knock, frequent adjustments, failure of rods and adjusting screws.
To prevent this from happening, a number of measures were taken; The 4th support, through which the rocker shaft is supplied with oil, from below, in the middle of the shaft, was drilled to a diameter of 12.5 mm. The oil channels in the rocker arms are also reamed, up to 3.5 mm, and from the hole, specially made with a 3 mm wide cutter, grooves were made through the lower part of the bushing, a little more than 180 degrees. In the upper part of the sleeve, there is no need to make a groove, because. under the action of the valve spring and the pusher, the rocker tends to press down against the shaft and a gap is formed from above.
For the same reason, all eight holes for lubrication were welded on top of the rocker shaft. That gave a significant improvement in the oil supply of the mates, the rocker shaft and the screw rod, as well as a general increase in oil pressure in the engine oil system.
The adjusting screw, the same is modified, deepened to 6 mm in diameter, and the annular groove on the thread is expanded to 4 mm, opposite the hole, and the head is ground to 5.5 mm in height, if the latter is not done, then as it wears out, by the tip of the rod , may break off the edge of the screw head.

Camshaft (new). Made of cast iron, these camshafts are available for ZMZ-402 engines. There are two reasons for using it. Chilled cast iron has very high hardness and adequate wear resistance. But the main reason is that the cams of this shaft are made with a steeper profile compared to camshaft UAZ, and at the same time, naturally, the filling of the cylinders improves.

Crankshaft (second-hand). sanded, under repair size 0.25 mm. On the neck of the shaft, intended for the stuffing box seal, an oil drain thread was cut instead of the standard knurling.
The thread is right-handed, double-threaded, with a step of one turn of 5 mm, the beginning of the thread is at a distance of 17 mm from the oil baffle washer to the shaft. (17 mm for the UAZ engine. 7.0 mm for the ZMZ engine) effect, there was already a precedent.
The shaft was polished, according to book dimensions, after grinding, static balancing was done (we are not doing the dynamics yet, unfortunately, there is not enough time to make the machine).
First, the shaft itself was balanced, then the flywheel was fixed and balanced on it, then the clutch basket was installed, and the same was done with it, and when all this was balanced, we discovered with surprise and horror that the direction vectors of the imbalance of all parts , roughly matched. One can only imagine how an unbalanced engine would work if the mass of metal removed is hundreds of grams.
Since we touched on the problem of balancing, it is necessary to say about the weight distribution of pistons and connecting rods. The weight distribution of the pistons is not particularly difficult, it is only worth saying that the pistons are weighed complete with a piston pin, to a minimum discrepancy between themselves (of course, no more than book values).
With rods, things are somewhat more complicated. To achieve good engine operation, it is necessary to adjust the weight separately of the upper and lower connecting rod heads, which was done, even earlier a device was made for this purpose in the form of a rigid suspension and a lever balance, which gives an accuracy result of up to 0.2 g.

Piston group (second-hand sleeves). The operating experience of repaired engines has shown that the recommended clearance between the cylinder liner and the piston skirt, 0.03-0.045 mm, is insufficient for these engines, especially for engines with a 100 mm piston group.
Either the material from which the pistons are made has a higher than expected temperature coefficient of linear expansion, or the book data are incorrect, but if after honing the gap is less than 0.08-0.1 mm, when the car is in operation, it lifts the piston skirt . Based on this, the sleeves were bored and honed for pistons with a diameter of 92.5 mm.
Piston rings, "S T K", Samara Technology Company, at the time when the engine was assembled, they proved themselves very well, they were then applied. (“At that moment”, because if something worthwhile appears on the spare parts market, a fake will soon appear, often difficult to distinguish from the original, or over time, the manufacturer will lower the quality below all standards.)
The gaps at the joints of the rings must be kept within 0.6 mm for the upper and 0.5 mm for the lower compression and oil scraper rings. I must say that high-quality rings, with the boring that I spoke about above, do not have to be adjusted at the joints.
Car dismantling happened at first as usual, until I deduced the formula:
"Dismantled-washed-thrown away."

Engine block. Apparently, “in search of pressure”, the nuts on the covers of the main bearing beds were tightened so that the covers were pressed into the block by a few tenths of a millimeter. And, as a result, the liners themselves pushed through the beds. And when, apparently, they found that the shaft was not “turning”, they put brackets under the covers. This, yes, plus, the oil pump worn out in the “trash” is the explanation for the riddle with pressure.

clutch cover, apparently, was applied from another block, because there was such an offset that when measuring, there was not enough travel of the lever indicator. The consequences of this turned out to be deplorable, an almost new clutch disc was torn, and the gearbox failed.
Due to the displacement of the casing, the input shaft of the box was skewed, the thrust bearing between the primary and secondary shafts turned from a roller bearing into a “lamellar one”. Pieces of what were once rollers, through the joint between the shafts, began to fall into the cavity of the box, and there, respectively, between the gear teeth.
The fact that the gearbox did not break can only be explained by the small size of these fragments. The primary, secondary and intermediate shafts have become unusable.
I will not describe the condition of the forks, synchronizers, bearings, etc., it was all about the same condition. And when we discovered that transfer case does not differ in condition from the gearbox (in the “razdatka” the bearing housings were turned, or rather the seats, and the gears and forks were worn out), it was decided to buy new boxes.
There were two reasons for this, the first; it is economically unprofitable to restore the units in detail, the second; a new type of gearbox appeared on sale, synchronized in all four gears.

Bridges. Suffice it to say that after disassembly, washing and rejection, from two bridges, they remained “alive”; one wheel hub, "offal" of one "diff" and one pair of final drive gears (the rest is turned, crushed, worn out, etc.)
The saddest thing is that when the car fell into my hands, it was not “rolled”, eighty to ninety percent of the parts were rejected by us, due to the illiterate approach to repair by the previous owners of the car.
After calculating the cost of restoration, it was decided to purchase new bridges. However, here we faced the same problem.
The rear one was purchased new, and the front one, although it was new, was removed for some reason, apparently from warranty car. At that time, there were no more front axles in stores, therefore, we took it away on the condition that if nothing serious was found during disassembly, we buy it, if it is seriously faulty, we will return it.
Fortunately for us, the final drive gears were in excellent condition, and the bridge was rejected due to a jammed left CV joint.
And here again a problem arose, in the store, of all the hinges available there, there was practically nothing to choose from. Work surfaces for balls, terrible workmanship, there is no question of any grinding. The tension is such that the hinge cannot be broken by hand, obviously, the manufacturers initially expect that the balls will roll the surface by themselves.
They roll, but, as you know, the car moves in a straight line most of the time, and since the camber is already in the bridge design, already from the factory, a very narrow part of the working surface is being worked out.
As soon as the ball fills its place, it will take even more effort to break the hinge, moreover, the peak falls on the exit of the ball from the recess it has pressed through, hence the clicks in the CV joints when cornering.
Plus, with such an interference fit in the hinge, the support sleeve in the trunnion very quickly fails, often it simply turns in the body, thereby destroying the seat itself. And as a result, it crushes thrust washers, especially since they began to be made of plastic.
In the end, one CV joint was chosen, a little rusty, but with an acceptable quality of work surfaces. I had to pick up the balls with others, with an allowable tightness, the balls came up, in diameter, 0.07 mm less than those standing.

So, front axle(new), I already mentioned about the CV joint, further, both trunnion bushings were deployed so that the gap between the bushing and the bearing surface of the hinge was about 0.5 mm, i.e. maximum allowable. Plus, the bearing surface on the fists, from the factory, was polished with a reverse cone, i.e., with a decrease to the fist by 0.03 mm on the left and 0.04 mm on the right SHRUS.
I had to grind new hinges to obtain a cylindrical surface, and only then press in the bushings and bore them in a lathe, individually for each hinge, to a gap of 0.09-0.1 mm. Precisely boring, reaming gives poor surface quality.
As I already mentioned main couple, was in good condition, but the differential bearings were tightened so that the bridge could hardly be turned by hand. After normal adjustment of the bearings, it turned out that they were overtightened by 0.4 mm.
(I must say that at one time, the KrasGazService warranty workshops were littered with Volg reclamation rear axles, mainly due to the bearing tightening.) On the axles that were on my “new” car before repair, for the same For this reason, all four bearings on the differential boxes were rotated, two of them were also in the axle housing.
The wheel hubs, from the front and rear axles, one at a time, directly on the bearings, were put on a mandrel in a lathe to align and straighten the attachment planes.
From all hubs, only on two, fenders; one under brake drum, one under the axle shaft, practically did not beat. The rest had to be machined, the beats reached up to 0.4 mm. And when the brake drums were put on the hubs, I was taken aback by the “quality” of the parts. Beating of planes under wheel disks and surfaces under brake pads, reached 0.8 mm, and one drum, along the inner surface, had a beat of 1.7 mm.

Rear axle (new), both axle shafts were also set in a lathe, in the centers, the mating plane with the hub, on the left axle shaft, had practically no beats. And on the right there were beats of 0.3 mm, by simple mathematical calculations you can find out what beats will be at the end of the half shaft if it is 650 mm long, the flange diameter is 100 mm, and mentally imagine what stresses the half shaft undergoes, rigidly fixed at both ends.
If these planes of the semiaxes are not corrected, then one of the "sores" of the UAZ will definitely appear; the tightening of the bolts, the fastening of the axle shafts will be constantly weakened. To finally get away from this problem, on the hubs of the front and rear axles, instead of standard bolts, we used studs with a standard thread on one side and with a thread pitch of 1.25 mm on the other.

Nuts with a thread pitch of 1.25 mm had to be used, with a spanner of 15 mm, and then when tightening, the ribs of the nuts must be oriented tangentially to the circumference of the hub, otherwise the wheel disks will not pass.
The differential bearings, which had to be re-adjusted, were overtightened, just like on the front axle.
Two more brackets were welded to the rear axle, for additional shock absorbers.

Gearbox (new) synchronized in all four gears. When, after the purchase, we opened the gearbox cover, we were pleasantly surprised, this is a fundamentally new unit (our “Russians” can do “things”).
By the standards of the old box, huge synchronizers, reinforced gears, and I really liked the box intuitively. But these are emotions, further operation will show how good it is, but for now I enjoy driving a car, without peregazovok.

Transfer case (new), the same as it was, there is nothing to choose from, although there is, the first “handout” that was purchased had to be exchanged, a tooth, some kind of gear was not cut radially, hence there were jamming. And when the flange of the rear axle cardan was removed from the exchanged "razdatka", the stuffing box spring was found inside the box, at first they thought that it had come off the stuffing box, but when they opened the back cover, they saw that the stuffing box had a spring in place.
Apparently, the "caring" manufacturers put a "spare". If it gets into the cavity of the box, there could be trouble.

Engine block (new). It turned out that the same block was purchased without the flywheel casing, out of the four casings available, one was chosen, and then, for alignment, it was necessary to make pins with an offset of 0.6 mm.
The threads were cut in the block, under the head mounting studs, with a diameter of 12 mm. Regular eleven-millimeter, with a step of 1 mm, it is impossible to stretch the block head normally. The washers for this interface were made of steel 40 XN, 5 mm thick and 26 mm in outer diameter. Moreover, they are used without any preliminary heat treatment. The holes for the studs in the head of the block were drilled to 13 mm.
Bolts with a diameter of 10 mm, with a standard thread, for fastening the flywheel casing and engine bearing feet, were made from bolts, fastening covers of block beds, VAZ cars. From under the standard ones, with 14 mm heads, when pulling, it squeezes out the washers of the grower. (I must say, this drawback is manifested on all UAZ units, therefore it was made for one dozen of these bolts.)

Engine mount. Instead of the front, regular, engine mounts, pillows from the GAZ-3102 were used. The vibration transmitted from the engine to the frame has been drastically reduced. In the future, I am going to redo the rear suspension as well, but at the same time, I will have to install two longitudinal jet rods in order to prevent the engine from moving forward during hard braking.

clutch basket. Three holes in the casing of the basket, for attaching the forks, were drilled to a diameter of 12 mm, under the adjusting nuts of the forks, from the Volga clutch basket, and Volgovskie paws with needle bearings were used. The only thing that had to be done with them was to lengthen each by 8 mm by welding, and to process all three assembled in the jig as a whole. (UAZ paws, which appeared on sale, and are reminiscent of Volgovsky in design, are made of "raw" metal and cannot be hardened.)
Instead of nine rigid, UAZ springs, six twin "Volgovsky" springs were used, as practice has shown, their efforts are more than enough for normal clutch engagement, thanks to this, unnecessary loads are removed in all mates, from the clutch pedal to the pressure plate, plus, the pedal becomes very flexible.
Those who have had to deal with the operation of the Volga and UAZ know how much more UAZ, the release bearing of the Volga "walks". And all this, due to the design features of the clutch release itself. UAZ bearing, thrust, "Volgovsky", angular contact. Therefore, the Volga release bearing was used. For this, the neck of the front cover of the gearbox was machined, up to a diameter of 42.5 mm, and the case, “Volgovsky”, was bored release bearing, up to a diameter of 42.6 mm.

Pump (water pump). The housing, bored out for installation, of two 603 bearings, after boring it was put on a mandrel, and all the attachment planes were corrected, especially this applies to the mating plane with the stuffing box, it also needs to be polished.
The blades of the impeller were welded in height and polished until the gap between them and the cover plane was 0.5 mm.
The pump pulley is made anew, with a diameter of 100 mm and for two belts, the pulley was similarly made crankshaft diameter 160 mm. The fact is that for the normal operation of the 1000-watt generator that we used, one belt is not enough.

And another goal that we pursued by changing the diameters of the pulleys was to increase the speed of the pump and, accordingly, the fan, in order to increase the efficiency of the cooling and heating systems.

Brake system. What was finalized in it was a vacuum booster (it was not there before the repair) and instead of the standard working cylinders, were used "Volgovskie", self-breeding.
As I mentioned earlier, the brake drums were machined. After this minimum of improvements, the brakes became just a “fairy tale”.

Gas drive. In the engine power system, a K-151 carburetor was used, so it was decided to drive with a cable. This made it possible to remove the backlash in the gas drive and get rid of "a bunch of unnecessary pieces of iron."
For this, a pulley with two streams, diameters 45 and 115 mm, was made for the return spring cable and the carburetor damper cable. A 90-degree segment was cut from the pulley and attached to the accelerator pedal axle, next to the tunnel wall, closer to the driver's side.
On the wall itself, an emphasis was fixed, under the bowden of the cable and the adjusting screw of the return spring.
On the carburetor mounting studs, a home-made bracket with an emphasis, similar to the Volgovsky, was installed.
The use of pulleys, in the gas drive, gave a linear relationship between the deflection of the gas pedal and the opening throttle valves carburetor, plus the smoothness and softness of the gas pedal.

The filter element, due to the very limited engine compartment, applied flat, square shape. They are produced for injection engines, VAZ cars. With their compactness, they have high filtering properties and low resistance to air flow.
The filter housing was made with a common platform for the carburetor and filter element, so that the filter element stood above the valve cover. The air flow to the filter is directed from below along the engine, thereby solving the problem with heating the intake air. The only thing that had to be redone in this case was the engine hood hinges.

Control mechanism, gear box.
The lower part of the intermediate levers has been cut and lengthened: the selector lever by 40mm, the shift lever by 60mm.
With a slightly increased effort on the gear lever, this gave a very noticeable decrease in its travel, and since the adjustment limits have a good range, it became possible to adjust the position of the lever so that the gearbox control becomes quite comfortable.
Of course, when you have to drive a car for a very long time, along with reliability and safety, the question arises of ease of use, and this question consists of a whole complex of conditions. Quite a large part of them, we were able to implement, based on our own experience, something we simply could not foresee, and something remained unfulfilled due to lack of finances and time. And so, further, what we managed to put into practice.

Heating system. The van is heated by a heater, based on a four-row UAZ radiator, activated in two strokes, i.e. the air flow to the “suction” of the fan enters through one half, and from the “pressure” of the fan passes through the other. It is warm enough in the cabin, but in the future it is planned to carry out heating of the van, with an external air intake, in order to ventilate the cabin.
In the cab, a heater from a GAZ-3307 car is installed, made in a plastic case, based on a radiator similar to the heater radiator of VAZ cars with a classic layout. With two centrifugal fans, it cannot be compared with the standard UAZ heater, which, with its “decelerated” axial fan, can hardly be called anything else than a mockery.

In order for two heaters not to mutually influence each other's work, two separate radiator power loops were created. The direct branch, supplying the cabin heater, is connected according to the standard, i.e. from above, into the head of the block, above the fourth cylinder. Reverse, to the fitting located on the water pump housing.

The power supply of the radiator of the “stove” of the van is carried out somewhat differently. A straight branch, connected to a fitting screwed into a cover mounted on the back of the block head, instead of a metal plug. "Return", to a tee embedded in the return branch of the cooling radiator.
Also, in the heating system, fittings are provided for connecting an autonomous antifreeze heater, the heater itself is available and tested at the stand, but not yet installed.

Car suspension. As I mentioned earlier, on rear axle brackets were additionally welded for mounting two more shock absorbers, since the interior is heavy and prone to rocking, and 15 leaf springs were recruited for the rear suspension.
The front suspension has not undergone any changes, except that one more root leaf was added to the springs.
I must say that when the car was disassembled before repair, it was found that there were springs on the front suspension; on the left side 13 and on the right 14 sheets. Similarly, the springs were on rear suspension, only per turn; on the left 14 and on the right 13 sheets.
Shock absorbers for UAZ, it is better to use native, double-acting, they work much more efficiently than single-acting shock absorbers, Gazelle cars and the like.

Steering. While it remains unchanged, of course, there is a temptation to install power steering, but there is also the issue of financial problems, in general, this issue is still open.

electrical equipment. If you describe what has been done and what is planned, it will be a very large volume, because. This topic concerns a lot, from mechanics to radio electronics.

Therefore, I will briefly describe the main change; in place of the regular one, a 90-ampere generator and two batteries were installed (one as a regular one, for the operation of the electrical equipment of the car, the second for ensuring the start-up operation of the antifreeze heater and as a power source for country trips). Generator, large sizes than regular, so I had to use 1100 mm belts.

Grease. After running in, any high-quality oil, up to synthetic, can be poured into the engine lubrication system, depending on climatic conditions and material condition. But it must be remembered that the better the oil is used, the greater the "run" of the engine to the cap. repairs, and these are already disproportionate costs compared to the price, even the most expensive oil.
The same applies to the transmission, i.e. how better quality oil, will be poured into bridges and boxes, the more they "come out".
But for the lubrication of CV joints and wheel hubs, we used specially prepared oil mixtures. V steering knuckles, was stuffed with a mixture of equal weight proportions; SHRUS lubricants, KONSOL firms and transmission oil TS-p10.
In the wheel hubs, in the corner of the shoulder seats, under the brake drum, and the wheel disk, holes were drilled, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and an M-6 thread was cut, under the syringe fitting and plug. After adjusting the bearings to dry, through these holes, inside the hub, a mixture of "Litol" and TC-p10 was pressed, the same in equal proportions.

Body, Salon

After renovation. A "heap" of all kinds of impressions and information for reflection. The engine started on the first try and immediately earned smoothly, compared to what it was before the repair, heaven and earth.
The transmission, at the beginning of operation, delivered a little trouble. At first, the first gear was hard to turn on. And about 200 kilometers, the front wheel hubs were heated, obviously, the misalignment in the CV joints affected, no matter how to disable the trunnion bushings, they had to be additionally syringed.
After 1000 km of run, the oil in the engine, axles and boxes was changed. Still, after about 1000 km, the car “rolled”, compared to last year’s operation, it was a “song”.
This is where the problem arose. As the mileage increased, detonation began to appear more and more. Twice, I corrected the ignition, while mentally excluding the malfunction of the distribution sensor, because. he "took" it himself. After the third adjustment, there was a "chic" failure and glow ignition. Moreover, before doing the ignition, there was no possibility, a “mad” detonation appeared. With a little later ignition, the car simply stopped "carrying".
"Climbed" into the distributor, hoping to find the hanging weights of the centrifugal ignition timing controller. "Shish", everything was in order there. After scratching his “turnip”, he went to his friend, he has daily practice and experience, he must, at least once, encounter such a phenomenon.
Naturally, I encountered more than once. It turns out that this problem can appear, due to several reasons:
1. For distributors of previous releases, on the housing of the vacuum ignition timing regulator, there was a threaded fitting. By placing washers between it and the spring of the vacuum machine, it was possible to adjust the spring force, depending on the magnitude of the vacuum, in the intake manifold. Now this has to be done by deforming, or rather, by crushing the outer part of the vacuum regulator housing. (Well, what sane, normal driver would come up with that.)
2. The springs of the centrifugal ignition timing controller weaken from time to time, and for new ones from the factory, the tension is often simply not adjusted. Since there is no stand, in order to take characteristics from the distribution sensor, the adjustment of the spring tension has to be done “by scent”, and most often, it is necessary to increase the tension, only of a thin spring.
3. The K-151 carburetor and its modifications are made with an autonomous idle system. This means that when the engine is running, in the mode idle move, carburetor dampers must be fully closed. But this is theoretical. In practice, so that there would be no jamming, it is necessary to leave small leaks. But only small. The accuracy of the manufacture of carburetors is such that quite often it is necessary to re-set the shutters along the walls of the chamber, often at the same time, almost completely unscrewing the stop screws.
If this is not done, then through the slightly open damper, a vacuum will be constantly supplied to the fitting designed to connect the vacuum ignition timing controller. And from here there are problems with adjusting the normal operation of the engine.

Having eliminated the causes that were found during the analysis of the above, I achieved good engine operation and decided to turn on the EPHH system, which was disabled for the period of engine debugging. And then a surprise awaited me, if not a blow, after connecting the EPHX, antifreeze began to disappear from the cooling system and the engine “failed”, at first almost imperceptibly, and then more and more. Moreover, antifreeze did not enter the oil, even when the car was parked for a long time.
You can imagine my feelings when I made the decision to remove a new block head from a practically freshly repaired engine.
“The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing,” and after removing the head, a crack was found in the suction channel of the first cylinder. The most interesting thing was that the crack did not go into the water jacket, but into the drilling for the head mounting stud. It should also be taken into account that during assembly, in the corner between the block and the head mounting studs, a silicone sealant was applied - a gasket.
After the head was removed, it was on this stud that there was no sealant, as if it had not been applied there, the vacuum in the suction manifold is so great, especially during the operation of the EPHH system.
There was nothing to do, having grieved a little, I “charged” another head, no longer new, used, but in good condition, because I began to take aback from the new “detail”, and you can’t even make a claim, the crack was discovered after several thousand kilometers of "mileage" of the car after repair. The "new" head of the block turned out to be of better quality, at least so far it does not bring problems.
During the further operation of the car, in the first chamber of the K-151 carburetor, it was necessary to install, in place of the main fuel jet 225, jet 240, from the K-151GU carburetor, leaving the main air jet 330 ml / min.
After eliminating all these nuances, the engine has a "rather aggressive character", despite the fact that it is still rather weak for this "barn". But, in general, the car was a success, now I get great pleasure from trips and satisfaction from the understanding that a lot of work has been done for good reason.

Reutov Konstantin Borisovich aka
Russia, Krasnoyarsk kr.
Kansk

In order to go to the forest for mushrooms or berries, as well as for fishing, the UAZ 3303 has long been used. This is an excellent helper when organizing long off-road trips. V Soviet time it was used to transport a large number of people to work on the collective farm, as well as to transport the authorities.

UAZ 3303 is an SUV with a light truck body type. It was released, like all cars of the UAZ line, at the Ulyanovsk plant. The cab of this truck has two seats. The people called him "Tadpole" because of the large shape of the cabin.

All about UAZ 3303

UAZ 3303 began its production in 1986. During this time, it has been modified several times and, in this regard, has the following modifications:

• 330394. This variety is available with a double cab and a wooden platform;
• 330364. The truck has an extended cab with a metal platform.

UAZ 3303 wheels are distinguished by the presence of discs, and their tread pattern is unique and unlike any other samples.

The suspension of the UAZ 3303 is dependent on both sides. Equipped with springs and shock absorbers - on bridges.

The braking system is also not quite perfect: dual-circuit with hydraulic drive, as well as vacuum booster. There are drum mechanisms.

Steering mechanism in the form of a globoidal worm using a double-ridged roller.

This type of truck is most often used as ambulances, as well as for the transport of important goods. UAZ 3303 are imperfect driving performance, which can be improved with tuning. You can also change more sides and the entire interior of the machine. Do-it-yourself tuning for the UAZ 3303 is quite easy and not burdensome.

Tuning UAZ

Organizing tuning UAZ 3303 is easy. It is enough to have an initial knowledge of mechanics, as well as a little understanding of technology. You can look at the tuned UAZ 3303 at this link

The organization of tuning in relation to UAZ is as follows:

• first, the wheels are tuned;
• then tuning the chassis;
• interior trim;
• bumper tuning;
• body tuning;
• enhanced tank protection.

This is a brief listing of all the stages of tuning the UAZ 3303. Everything will be discussed in more detail below.

Wheel tuning

In order to increase the cross-country ability of the truck, it is necessary to pay special attention to the wheels. They need to be replaced with wider ones. The maximum diameter must not exceed 24 inches. This tuning is organized in this way:

• to begin with, the body of the car is raised, spacers are installed and the wings are trimmed;
• bridges must be replaced with leopard bridges with a larger width;
• in addition, you need to change the differential. In this case, you can achieve an amazing effect: the wheels will not slip in any bad weather, and the transmission will last much longer;
• you can also replace the springs and shock absorbers. The former should be installed longer, and the latter should be imported;

Important! In order for the UAZ not to skid when cornering, it is necessary to install additional parts in the form of stabilizers. They are attached to the sides and, thereby, help the car to keep balance.

• you need to install a winch. This is to protect the glass from scratches. Most often choose electric, as it is more reliable. However, you should also change the battery to a more powerful one.

This completes the work with the wheel part and you can proceed to the next step.

Chassis modification

Greater attention should be paid to brake system. It should be as powerful as possible so that the car responds in time to pressing the brake pedal. To do this, use the disk system installed in front and behind the truck and install a frame with an amplifier and a subframe.

Interior trim

In order to give the car a more modern look, it is necessary to change the upholstery of the cabin, as well as the seats. To do this, the following scope of work is carried out:

First upholstery is done. For this you need:

• rip off all the old upholstery. At the same time, you can remove mirrors and everything that interferes with the process;
• then a piece of the fabric that you like best is taken;
• accurate measurements are made and then cut out of this canvas;
• it is necessary to sheathe the entire interior with it, while laying a synthetic winterizer or any other soft material between the roof of the UAZ and the fabric.

The seats need to be replaced. You can choose absolutely any shape you like. If they are not roomy enough, you can correct them a little by trimming the edges. The old seats are then thrown away. For new ones, the following work is carried out:

• first, two small corners are welded to the seats themselves;
• holes are made in these parts and screwed into the floor with small bolts.

Due to the fact that the seats are slightly pushed forward, you can sit on them, slightly leaning back. This method allows you to enjoy the road without straining your back and arms.

For the convenience of driving, you can install a hydraulic booster - a special hydraulic system making it easier to turn the steering wheel.

After that, you can make tuning dashboard by replacing the film with the performance of the devices.

Thus, at minimal cost you can really transform the truck. Here is what the cabin will look like after tuning:

bumper tuning

The bumper needs to be replaced with a stronger one. To do this, we hang a special frame. If you can’t do this yourself, you can go one of two ways: go to a car dealership or car shop. The latter sells ready-made kits that can be immediately placed on the bumper.

body tuning

Often, the body of the UAZ 3303 rusts. In order to put it in order, you can do the following:

• disassemble it and thoroughly clean it from dirt;
• trim the most corrosive places;
• weld overlays;
• paint the body. For this, you must first use a primer, with which the body is given a streamlined and even shape, and then painted with emulsion paint in two layers. Attention! In order for it to take better, it is necessary to apply the paint in layers: first one layer, then drying and the second layer.

If necessary, you can change the shape and size of the body. It can be made longer or slightly wider.

Tank tuning

This item includes protection for the tank, steering wheel and motor. leaking this species tuning as follows:

• first you need to strengthen the cabin. This is done with the help of a shockproof frame;
• Next, remove the air intake from engine compartment on the roof of UAZ 3303;
• you need to install a roof rack;
• for protection, the steering wheel can be covered with a casing or any upholstery that you like.

Thus, with a certain ingenuity and diligence, a more advanced version of an SUV can be made from a 3303 truck. In case something does not work out for you, you can always contact any auto repair shop, where leading experts will help you.