An article about the local repair of the car body - preparation, procedure, subtleties of work. At the end of the article - a video about body repair car.

The content of the article:

Regular operation of the car sooner or later leads to the repair of its component parts, including the body. This article will focus on local body repair.

In what cases the body needs local repair

There are a lot of reasons that lead to the repair of a particular part of the body. These can be mechanical damage to the paintwork by road debris, the consequences of minor accidents, chemical damage during misuse reagents and, finally, the manifestation of ordinary corrosion.

Of course, as a result of the above damage, the car does not lose specifications, and therefore there is no reason to scrap it. Only the external aesthetics of the car suffers, and this problem is quite simple to solve. And if you repair everything with your own hands, then the economic benefit will be obvious.

Preparation for local repair

Before local body repair, you need to wash the car well, and then diagnose for defects. This is necessary in order to know for sure which parts of the body need to be repaired, as well as what tools and equipment will be required for this.

First of all, examine the nature of the damage. For instance:

• dents resulting from an accident, as well as from impacts of stones from under the wheels;
• breach of integrity paintwork: chips, cracks, scratches, etc.;
• corrosion.

If this damage is mechanical and at the same time it is associated with a rupture of metal surfaces, or if it is a typical corrosion that has “cut through” the metal through, then in this case it would be reasonable to replace the damaged part with a new one. The same can be said about those damaged places in which the stiffeners have suffered. But if the part cannot be replaced (the model is outdated), in principle it can be restored, but it will be much more difficult to do this than to replace it.

In addition, it is necessary to find those places that require correction of geometric deformation, as well as note all minor damage that can be simply removed with putty. As a result of such an analysis for defects, you will know which parts of the body will require subsequent repairs.

Replacement of a damaged body part

Most effective method to repair a damaged body part is to replace it. But if you still decide to repair the part, then in this case it will have to be dismantled. So, let's start with dismantling.

Most body parts can be bolted or self-tapping, so removing them is not difficult, and without the use of welding. By the way, if the repaired part is already installed in a painted form, it will be much better and easier.

However, there are parts that are mounted using spot welding. To dismantle them, use a special chisel and hammer. With these tools, the spot weld is cut between the parts at the attachment point.

After the part has been removed, it is necessary to clean all joints from corrosion, and if necessary, carry out rehabilitation, possibly by welding, and then straighten. Anti-corrosion treatment after that obviously does not hurt.

It is better to install the repaired part with the help of special mastic, as a result of which the elements will connect to each other much more tightly and more tightly. In this case, additional waterproofing will occur. It is desirable to do this with any connection method, but if you use welding, your welding points should remain clean.

Straightening of body surfaces

Methods for correcting geometric dents are quite dependent on the type of damage, so each case is considered individually. We distinguish two main types of deformations:

• collapse;
• the so-called "slappers".

Crushing changes the geometric shapes and sizes of body parts, so this kind of damage requires pulling, and this process is quite laborious. The pulling principle is similar to restoring crumpled paper. To perform this work, you need the appropriate knowledge, skills and abilities, as well as special tools: a reverse hammer, various kinds of extensions, etc.

Puttying

No local body repair can do without putty. The fact is that, having repaired the damaged body parts, in any case, you will have to move on to the final cosmetics.

The first step is to repair the deepest irregularities, the depth of which exceeds 1 mm. To do this, use a coarse-grained putty. At the same time, do not forget that among the parts that make up the body there are parts that are subject to vibration and can be deformed from this.

When processing such parts, use a putty containing aluminum filler. For other parts, fiberglass putty can be used.

Draft stage

To begin with, those places on which you plan to apply putty will have to be matted. This procedure can be performed using a medium-grained emery cloth - this is necessary for more reliable adhesion to the surface.

After you finish matting, the surface to be treated must be cleaned and degreased with high quality.

The next step is directly puttying. And this process should take no more than 20 minutes. In any case, most putties have exactly this setting time. Therefore, to be in time, proceed as follows:

1. Dilute the putty according to the instructions given by the manufacturer. After that, mix the solution thoroughly enough so that the composition excludes air bubbles, has a measured color and the same consistency.
2. Start applying the solution to the surface with a spatula. At the same time, be extremely careful not to overestimate the required layer thickness. Therefore, it is better to apply thin layers in several steps to achieve the desired level. And if the surplus still appears, they must be removed immediately.
3. Allow time for the putty to dry.

Note: of course, it is not possible to immediately apply putty so that later this surface does not require mechanical processing. Therefore, it will be very good if you come to a result that is as close to ideal as possible.

As already said, machining in any case, a puttied surface cannot be avoided. Therefore, wait until the composition has completely solidified, and then proceed to processing.

To do this, stock up on sandpaper and a wooden block. To begin with, you can use a medium-grained skin, and try to pick up a bar that is not very large, but fairly even.

The method of such processing is quite simple: wrap the bar in "sandpaper" and begin to process the repaired surface with it. It is due to an even bar that you can identify where it is necessary to remove excess putty, and where it needs to be added.

In addition to a bar wrapped in sandpaper, you can use an orbital sander, but its use requires care and great experience. And if there is no such experience, then it is better to grind manually, as described above - you will make fewer mistakes.

Despite the fact that this procedure is quite simple, rare specialists manage to do everything the first time. Therefore, after the first treatment, check the result and, if necessary, repeat everything again. Your ultimate goal is for the surface to be level and free of holes, bumps, and joints.

Finishing stage of puttying

So, you have done the most "dirty" work, the repaired surface already has a favorable appearance, and now the only thing left is to eliminate small defects. The problem is that sometimes they are even impossible to see with the naked eye, but after repair they will definitely show themselves.

And here you already need another, fine-grained putty, which is also called finishing. You apply it with the thinnest layer to those places that require it: scuffs, scratches, an excessive layer of putty with large grains.

The condition is the same as with the use of coarse-grained putty - you need to have time to apply the composition before its initial hardening. After that comes the stage of mechanical finishing, and fine-grained sandpaper, which is popularly called zero, is already used here.

This work should also be done manually if there is no experience in using special tools. The necessary result of this procedure is the complete absence of irregularities, both visible and invisible, and palpable.

Performing this final action, it is sometimes possible to apply putty in several layers, but in most cases one is enough.

Once you have done all this, the repair can be considered complete. It remains only to paint the repaired areas, and your car will look like new.

Car accident damage

As a result of the analysis of domestic (Moscow and Leningrad) and foreign (Stockholm) statistical data, it was established percentage the number of body damages during accidents in the main directions of impact (Fig. 1.5). As can be seen from the figure, the largest number of collisions falls on the front of the car, a significant number - on the back, and the smallest - on the right and left.

Impact damage to bodies can be divided into three categories: the first includes very severe damage, as a result of which the replacement of the body is necessary; the second category includes medium-sized damage, in which most of the parts require replacement or complex repairs; the third category includes less significant damage (holes, ruptures on the front panels, dents, scratches received when hit in motion at low speed). Damage to the third category does not pose a danger to driving a car, although it appearance does not meet aesthetic requirements.

The most devastating damage to the body is observed in frontal collisions, i.e., in collisions inflicted on the car directly into the front of the body or at an angle of no more than 40-45 ° in the area of ​​​​the front pillars. As a rule, such collisions occur between two vehicles moving towards each other, the speeds of which are added, which creates high shock loads. The amount of energy that must be absorbed in such collisions is enormous: about 80 100 kJ for a car weighing 950 1000 kg. This energy is absorbed when the vehicle is deformed in less than 0.1 s. In such collisions, the car body is destroyed, especially its front part, but the large loads acting in this case in the longitudinal, transverse and vertical directions are transferred to all adjacent parts of the body frame and especially to its power elements. Let's look at the examples.

Example I. A frontal collision of a car occurred with the front part of the body in the region of the left front fender, spar and left headlight (Fig. 1.6). Devastating damage received front panel, fenders, hood, mudguards, front spars, windscreen frame and roof. This deformation is established visually. Invisible deformation occurs in the A-pillars, B-pillars and C-pillars on both sides, in the left front and rear doors, in the left rear fender and even in the rear trunk panel.

Example 2. The collision occurred with the front part of the car body at an angle of 40-45° (Fig. 1.7). The front fenders, hood, front panel, mud flaps, front spars received devastating damage. It is practically impossible to restore the base points of the front part of the body without replacing the deformed parts with new ones. At the same time, it is necessary to restore the dimensions of the front door openings and the position of the front and central pillars, since the force loads were transmitted through the front doors to the front and central pillars of the body, creating compressive forces on the threshold and upper side of the body.

Rice. 1.5. Diagram of the distribution of the number of body damages in the main directions of collisions I-IV (in % per 100 vehicles involved in collisions): I frontal collisions (impact types 01.02.03); II right side impacts (impact types 04, 05, 06); III collisions in the rear of the car (impact types OT, 08, 09) IV - left side impacts (impact types 10, II. 12), M Moscow and Moscow region; L Leningrad and Leningrad region; From Stockholm (Sweden)

Rice. 1.6. Frontal collision of the car with the front left side of the body

Rice. 1.7. Collision with the front of the car body at an angle of 40-45°

Rice. 1.8. Impact from the side to the front part of the body in the area where the front panel mates with the side member and the left wing

Rice. 1.9. Side impact to the left A-pillar

Example 3. A blow was delivered from the side to the front of the car body in the area where the front panel mates with the front parts of the spar and the left wing (Fig. 1.8). Both front fenders, the front panel, mudguards, spars, and the hood received devastating damage. Tensile forces violated the opening of the left front door, compressive forces caused deformation in the opening of the right door and in the sidewall of the left front door. The A-pillars and B-pillars also received significant force overloads and deviated from their original position.

Example 4. Side impact to the front pillar of the car body on the left side (Fig. 1.9). Significantly deformed left A-pillar, windscreen frame, roof, floor and front floor side members, front panel, hood, fenders, mud flaps and front side members. The front of the car body has moved to the left; the threshold and the upper part of the right sidewall took tensile loads, central and rear racks compressive loads; the right mudguard in conjunction with the front pillar experienced tearing forces

Performing an external inspection of the emergency body (in cases similar to those given above and in the tables of Chapter 2), the specialist can establish the presence of distortions in the protrusion (sinking) of the doors, trunk lid and hood relative to the fixed surfaces of the body parts. Violation of the uniformity of the gaps (over allowable sizes specified in the normative and technical documentation) by the police pairing of mounted and fixed parts also indicates the presence of deformations in the parts of the body frame caused by the collision of the car. At the same time, it should be remembered that by external inspection it is impossible to determine the deviations of the linear dimensions of the body openings and geometric parameters according to the base points of the body base. For these purposes, it is necessary to use measuring instruments, control devices and stands. Their description and control methods are given in clause 3.4.

The following types of repairs are provided for with removed components and parts that prevent straightening, welding and painting work:

• repair 0 - repair of damage on the front surfaces of the body without damaging the color
• repair 1 - elimination of damage in easily accessible places (up to 20% of the part surface)
• repair 2 - repair of damage with welding, or repair No. 1 on the surface of a part deformed up to 50%
• repair 3 - elimination of damage with opening and welding, partial restoration of the part up to 30%
• repair 4 - elimination of damage with partial restoration of the part on the surface over 30%
• partial replacement - replacement of a damaged part of a body part with a repair insert (from the range of spare parts or made from the latter)
• replacement - replacement of a damaged body part with a part from spare parts
• large-block repair - replacement of damaged parts of the body with blocks of parts from rejected bodies with marking, cutting, fitting, drawing, straightening, welding of the latter

Body damage can be very different, so the repair rules must be individual. In almost all cases, it is necessary to remove some parts in order to detect damage, straighten and align the body frame. For serious damage, remove the interior padding to facilitate measurement, control and installation of hydraulic or screw jacks to eliminate distortions and deflections.

Deformed surfaces are repaired by mechanical or thermal action on the metal, as well as by filling dents with quick-hardening plastics or solder.

Editing the body by mechanical action involves stretching, extrusion and straightening of the deformed parts of the body to give them their original shapes and configurations.

Editing of body parts is carried out in a hot and cold state. For straightening and straightening the body, a set of tools and devices is used, which includes hand tools, hydraulic cylinders with a pump and devices for extracting damaged areas.

Rice. A set of tools and accessories for body repair:
a - hammers; b - mallets; c - special mandrels; d - support

Rice. Body straightening kit:
1 - mandrel for pulling concave parts; 2, 3 - self-locking hydraulic clamps; 4 - mandrel with teeth for gripping; 5 - hydraulic clamp; 6 - double grip; 7 - device for straightening the body; 8 - hydraulic pump; 9 - tension cylinder with grips; 10 - tension cylinder with pulling device

Rice. Elimination of bulges in body panels without heating:
a - section of the panel with a bulge; b - diagram of the direction of the blow with a hammer;
1 - bulge; 2 - panel; 3 - sections of the panel to be stretched by straightening with a hammer; 4 - curvature of the panel after straightening the bulge

The elimination of bulges in the cold state is based on stretching the metal along concentric circles or along radii from the bulge to the undamaged part of the metal. When editing, a smooth transition is formed from the highest part of the bulge to the panel surface surrounding it.

To do this, in the direction from the metal surrounding the bulge to the curved part of the surface, a series of successive blows in a circle is applied with a hammer. As the hammer approaches the border of the bulge, the impact force is reduced. The greater the number of circles on the panel when straightening, the smoother the transition from the bulge to the undamaged part of the metal will be.

Editing of deformed surfaces is carried out using a mallet and shaped plates or anvils of a special profile.

Rice. Restoring the shape of parts using a straightening tool

Editing in a heated state is carried out in two ways:

• heating followed by cooling
• heating with deposition of metal by impact

Heating and rapid cooling of the bulge are based on the use of metal expansion and shrinkage processes. The metal is heated by a carbon electrode of a welding machine or by a gas burner flame. When heated, a small circle of metal quickly heats up red-hot, while the ductility of the metal increases. Since the expansion of the heated metal is prevented by the less heated surrounding metal, the increase in the volume of the heated metal occurs due to its thickening. When the metal is cooled, it contracts, its volume decreases, but is held by the cold metal located around it. Since the metal has a temperature that does not correspond to the maximum plasticity, then, when compressed, it absorbs a small part of the surrounding metal. Acceleration of the process of metal precipitation is achieved by reducing the rate of heat propagation by creating a ring of wet cloth around the heated part of the metal, by tapping the boundaries of the point of the metal heated red-hot, and then the most heated point with a mallet or straightening hammer.

A sharp cooling of the heated section of the body is carried out with a swab of asbestos or rags moistened with water. The cooling of the metal leads to the desired draft and the adoption of the required profile by the surface of the body. When removing the bulge by this method, the surface is cooled in the sequence shown in the figure:

Rice. Sequence of cooling the heated surface of the body with a bulge

The heating of the bulge (dent) and the upsetting of the metal are carried out in the following sequence. The metal is heated red-hot (the diameter of the circle during heating is not more than 10 mm with a metal thickness of 0.6 ... 0.8 mm). A hand anvil is placed under the heated area. With a mallet, when removing a bulge, or with a trowel, when removing a dent, non-reddened metal is tapped around the heated point, and then the heated point.

The sequence of preheating and impacting when removing large bulges (dents) depends on the shape of the bulge. If the convexity is round, then the impact points 1…4 are arranged in a spiral in the direction from the periphery to the center, if the convexity is long and narrow, the impact points 1…16 are arranged in narrow rows.

Rice. The sequence of heating and cooling of the metal when removing bulges

Elimination of dents in hard-to-reach places is carried out with the help of levers, base plates and a special shock-type device. The figure shows editing schemes and examples of fixing body elements using levers.

Rice. Elimination of dents in hard-to-reach places with levers:
a - correction of the deformed area with the help of a clamping lever; b - correction of dents with a hammer and a clamping lever; c - insertion of the clamping lever with a hammer blow between the deformed part of the panel and the box; d - examples of repairing dents under the hood reinforcements, door frame and in the hidden cavity of the front wing

Dents located under the amplifiers are eliminated with flat levers. Punches and stiffeners in open areas are restored using base plates and a special chisel. Creases and dents in the door panels, as well as the wings, are straightened with levers, using the internal elements of the hood panels, doors, mudguard, etc. as a support.

Irregularities on the panels can be leveled with polyester putties, thermoplastics, cold curing epoxy putties, solder. Polyester putties form reliable bonds with panels that have been stripped down to metal. These are two-component materials containing an unsaturated polyester resin and a hardener, which is a catalyst for the rapid curing of the mixture, regardless of the thickness of the putty layer. Drying time at a temperature of 20 'C is 15-20 minutes. In this case, there is no need to apply several layers of putty, which reduces the duration of its application.

The thermoplastic is available in powder form. The elastic properties necessary for its application to the metal surface of the panel, it acquires at a temperature of 150-160 'C. The surface to be filled is thoroughly cleaned of rust, scale, old paint and other contaminants. For better adhesion, it is recommended to create roughness on the metal surface using an abrasive tool. To apply thermoplastic, the area to be leveled is heated to a temperature of 170-180 'C and the first thin layer of powder is applied, which is rolled with a metal roller, then the second layer is applied and so on until the unevenness is filled. Each layer is rolled until a monolithic plastic mass is obtained. After curing, the layer is cleaned and leveled with a grinder.

Can be repaired with cold curing epoxy putties that have high adhesion, sufficient strength and are easy to apply to damaged areas.

Solders POSSu-18, POSSu-20 are used for leveling areas, building up the edges of parts and eliminating the gap. To prevent corrosion of the metal, it is better to use an acid-free method of applying solder.

To eliminate body distortion of medium, increased or special complexity, mobile power devices and universal stands are used.

Editing of bodies on stands or mobile devices should be carried out taking into account a number of recommendations.

Before stretching, the power device is fastened, placing it on the central axis perpendicular to the deformed area.

The chain is fixed in the center of the deformed area with clamps; if the sheet of the panel being straightened is weakened, then a reinforcing plate is welded to it. The chain is attached perpendicularly to the vertical arm of the device, strictly following the axis of editing and taking into account that the greatest force develops on the head of the power cylinder.

Rice. Installing a body straightening device on a car

As the height of the chain attachment to the lever increases, the force on the hydraulic cylinder rod gradually decreases. Minimum effort stretching is created at the upper end of the vertical arm. Stretching begins with a minimum stroke of the hydraulic cylinder rod. The angle formed by the vertical arm with the horizontal beam of the device must be sharp, which allows stretching without shortening the chain.

Elimination of body deformations is carried out in the following order:

• determine the places of application of force to eliminate the misalignment and select the necessary grips and stops from the set of devices
• having determined the place of application and the direction of the force to eliminate the misalignment, fix the device for straightening the body in this direction
• install and fix screw braces or a hydraulic cylinder with the necessary extensions, grips and stops in the opening
• install and fix the chain of the power body with one end for the fixed grip or clamp, and with the other for the power lever; in this case, the chain must be pre-tensioned and have an angle of inclination determined by the required direction of the tensile force
• with the help of a power body, an extract (extrusion) of a damaged part or assembly is performed; extrusion of damaged parts is carried out from the inside of the body using power extensions or hydraulic devices
• after removing the load of power devices, check geometric parameters body

Rice. Editing the rear door opening

Perhaps the main difference between the Japanese car auction system and other similar systems in other countries, for example South Korea or the USA - this is the same auction sheet. In those countries, there is simply no such sheet, and in Japan it is not just a piece of paper, it is a document that is drawn up by an auction expert, in triplicate, in electronic form or by hand on thin “copying” paper. The auction expert evaluates the car as a whole, evaluates the body separately (sometimes), separately the interior (always) and always gives an overall assessment of the car.

By the way, here are the sheets that turned out to be at hand ...

All these sheets are real and original, and it does not matter how they are filled out, by hand or in printed text. Not a single specialist can determine the authenticity of an auction sheet, especially a printed one, by eye. If the sheet was filled out from a (Japanese) hand and, God forbid, “corrected” by a Russian hand, then the difference can be noticed, and even then not always. The most important thing is that the auction list should be real, so that it can be checked ... But more on that later.

What is indicated and noted in the auction sheet? Almost everything is indicated: the lot number at the auction, sometimes the date of the auction, the auction valuation, the overall and individual assessment of the interior (and sometimes also the separate body), engine size, car model with full body number, equipment name, interior and body color, transmission type , number of seats, type of air conditioning control, availability and date of the next technical inspection, if any (with a valid technical inspection, the car is usually more expensive at auctions), additional options in the "advantages" zone and minor and not very damage in the "disadvantages" column . And also on the car diagram all absolutely damages to the body are indicated, down to the smallest scratches and dents, which parts were painted or changed and what needs to be replaced, nothing escapes the eyes of attentive Japanese experts. Separately, I would like to dwell on some marks.

Circled here:
1. Lot number at the auction
2. Year and month of first registration 2008/07, although the issue date is May 2008
3. Evaluation of the auction expert, total 4.5 points, evaluation of the salon "B"
4. Date of the next inspection, which means that the MOT is valid until July 2013
5. Accurate mileage in kilometers
6. Fields where the advantages of the car are indicated, additional options, everything that the owner is proud of.
7. Field for negative remarks of the expert.
8. Vehicle diagram for damage marks, even the most minor ones.
9. Full car body number. It is always and on all auction sheets.

The sheet shows the year and month, but not the release, but the registration of the car in Japan, and these dates may differ by several months. For example, a car was produced at the factory, say, in January 2009, and was sold only in March 2009, and March will be indicated on the sheet. Therefore, before buying a car at an auction, it is always necessary to check exactly the date of release of the car according to special programs (freely available on the network), because our customs is interested in just this, and in accordance with the year and exact month of release, a duty is charged on the car.

The auction sheet also indicates the exact mileage of the car, and the real one. Runs are not “twisted” there, they are “twisted” here. There it is a jurisdictional case (up to criminal liability), but here - 500 rubles (on average) and you can do at least 0 kilometers. Everything is honest there, up to the fact that when the board itself was replaced for some reason, the auction sheet indicates the general real mileage, for example 70 thousand km. with a mark on the replacement of the scoreboard, say at 50 thousand km. Accordingly, on the (new) scoreboard there will be 20 thousand km. Therefore, you need to believe the numbers in the auction sheet (in the original, of course), and not the "honest" words of the seller.

The valuation of the car itself is also interesting. The auction expert inspects the exterior and interior of the car, fixing in detail all the details noticed, checks the car for corrosion of the suspension, engine and transmission elements. The expert starts the engine, evaluating its work by sound. That is, upon discovery extraneous noise or if the engine runs unevenly, the examiner enters these remarks on the auction sheet. However, the expert does not drive a car, and even more so on artificial bumps (it is difficult to find natural bumps there), in order to assess the state of the suspension. This condition is evidenced by the mileage of the car, however, as well as the wear of the main units, engine and transmission. The overall rating is indicated, as a rule, by a number from 1 to 6, although in fact only ratings of at least 3.5 and even 4.0 points deserve attention (unless, of course, you need a normal / good / very nice car). Cars with scores below 3.0 in practice turn out to be either with multiple body damage or simply broken. Letter ratings like “R”, “RA”, “RB” mean that the cars were broken (participated in an accident), drowned and similar dubious, but restored. An asterisk rating (***), or no rating at all, means that the car is sold at auction immediately after the accident, broken, not restored. All this means that good mark, with which you need to buy a car for yourself, this is 4.0-4.5 points (if you don’t have enough money, then 3.5, and if you need a very good one, then 5.0-6.0), and the “asterisks” (***) at the auction become “R” or "R ..." if they put hands on them, but still you need to stay away from them, because it is not known how much the car is broken and whose hands were put on it. A separate assessment of the interior and an additional assessment of the body are indicated in Latin letters from "A" to "E", where the rating "A" is the highest, and I simply have not seen ratings lower than "E". Maybe “F” happens, but I haven’t seen it and can’t even imagine, although in a combat vehicle with a machine gun in the back, the interior may be appreciated in this way.) The assessment of the interior, like any other assessment, is still subjective to some extent. That is, if the cabin is not highly rated “C”, the plastic does not have to be broken there, the seats are smoky, and the trim is torn. It can just be very dirty, a little worn out and small shoals are possible. Sometimes after a good dry cleaning salon "C" becomes a good "B". Again, at different auctions, of course, there are different experts, and they are demanding in different ways in evaluating cars, so at different auctions the same car can be either 4.0 points or 4.5, and the interior can be both “B” and “C”. Of course, only assessments for a really similar state, for wrecked car they do not put 4.5 and 5.0 points, and they will not put either “A” or “B” on the “killed” salon. But, nevertheless, that is why there are preferences for some auctions, where the estimates are more objective and valuable. So, for example, at auctions of the Honda or Toyota (TAA) network, a car’s valuation of 4.0 is sometimes better and more valuable than 4.5 at USS Tokyo or CAA Chubu auctions. And yet, in general, one can trust in expert assessments at Japanese auctions, because this assessment was invented for the good honest Japanese, not cunning Russians.

And now the part of the auction sheet, no less important than the estimate, is the full body number of the car. When choosing a car with a guaranteed original auction list, the first thing to look at is the estimate, but when choosing a car on the market, the main thing to look at is the full body number. This number is the main determining attribute of the auction sheet to a specific and the only car. Even if the car was sold at different auctions, and even possibly with different estimates and different damages (one has a scratch, the other has been painted), the only thing that connects these different auction sheets is single number body, which means it is the same car. All of this leads to the future topic of "Checking the auction list", and in the absence of verification, to the topic of "Cheating in the markets and similar places."

In general, the auction list is extremely important when choosing a car. When I am looking for a client good car(and I look for and buy only such ones), then I select them from a huge number according to this principle: first of all, I determine the rating, not lower than 4.0 points, then the year of manufacture, then only the mileage, color and equipment. Because you can buy a car in different colors, in maximum or basic configuration, with a run for which there is enough money and with a different set additional options. But in order to buy a car and not regret it later, you need to buy a car with a good auction estimate, and the original auction sheet will tell you about all this. And even if you deliberately decide to buy a broken, sunken or other dubious car to save money, you still won’t be able to find out about the severity of the damage or the degree of flooding and, in general, about its history without an auction sheet.

P.S. For those who want to save on quality, I present ordinary instances of the rating "R" and "***"

Here on sheet "R" you can see that the car was beaten to the left and rear. Both left doors and trunk lid on this Toyota Corolla The Axio have been replaced and the left sill, left front fender and rear fender have been repainted.
In the photo of the car with the stars, everything is clear ...