Homemade buggy is one of the the best options teach your growing child to drive, instill a love of technology from an early age. The design of the presented buggy is simple and reliable, as well as quite budgetary. Step by step assembly photos are included. This buggy has Gas engine from the Sadko motoblock with a capacity of 6.5 l / s located in the rear of the machine, for the internal combustion engine a separate frame is welded from a pipe and profile, which is attached to the main frame. The torque from the engine is transmitted to the gearbox, and already from it through a chain drive to the driven star of the rear axle that drives the wheels.

The frame of the buggy is welded from a pipe 22 x 1.5 mm, a pipe bender was used to give the parts the desired shape. The suspension is made in an interesting way, namely, the semi-axes sit rigidly on the frame, but the semi-frame with the engine has two paired shock absorbers from the scooter. The front suspension is also on shock absorbers from a scooter, the steering is self-made the same as on the maps. Rear wheels from the domestic scooter "Tulitsa" front scooter.

Engine power is enough with a margin to ride a teenager, even adults are not averse to a ride on a buggy)

So, let's take a look design features cars

materials

1. ICE gasoline from the motoblock "Sadko"
2. reducer
3. scooter front wheels
4. rear wheels motor scooter "Tulitsa"
5. pipe 22x1.5 mm
6. motorcycle driven sprocket
7. rear axle
8. housing bearings
9. shock absorbers 4 pcs

Tools

1. welding machine
2. drill
3. pipe bender
4. angle grinder (Bulgarian)
5. set of wrenches
6. measuring and locksmith tools
7. skillful hands and a bright head

Do-it-yourself step-by-step photos of assembling a buggy.
The rear axle of the buggy is made from a bored semi-axle from a ZIL car, installed homemade differential, brake discs, a driven star from a motorcycle and thrust bearings that are actually attached to the frame holding the axle in a given position.
The front wheels are borrowed from the scooter, and the rear wheels are from the domestic motor scooter "Tulitsa"
PAY ATTENTION! The engine is mounted on a separate semi-frame, which is attached to the buggy with levers, and two shock absorbers from the scooter are attached to the upper part, thus pendulum suspension with a rigid seat on the frame rear axle(see photo below)



Steering homemade made according to the principle of the map.
Rear wheel scooter
front scooter
Gasoline ICE 6.5 l / s "Sadko" is mainly installed on walk-behind tractors and other garden equipment.

Pulley 3 streams
Silencer homemade
The gearbox transmits torque to the rear axle through a chain drive and a star from the motorcycle.
Once again WARNING! Consider how the rear suspension is arranged.



During the tests, the shortcomings of such a suspension design were identified and it was decided to convert it to an independent one for each wheel and axle shafts. Here's what actually came out of it.
As you can see, A-arms are installed.
Front suspension.
Differential and axles.









Disc brakes.


Here is such a buggy from the author, the design is quite simple, apart from the fact that the frame will require a pipe passed through a pipe bender. If you have thoughts on simplifying the manufacture of the frame, then write a comment (constructive criticism is welcome)

Homemade buggies. United technical requirements and the design experience of many teams, logically, should have long led to the development of some kind of “ideal” buggy scheme. But it is unlikely that even today you will find two identical cars among the cars that arrived at any starts. And no wonder: each team, if it is truly creative, has something of its own, special, and everyone has different opportunities. We hope that our experience will be useful, first of all, to young sports teams.

According to the current classification, MSHI buggies belong to the 1st class and are built from the most available units and assemblies included in the kit supplied by DOSAAF. This power unit allows you to design an excellent motocross machine. Its rear location ensures that the drive wheels are loaded, which is very important for a car of this type.

Neither forcing the engine nor reducing the overall weight of the structure will noticeably change the dynamics of acceleration if there is no reliable adhesion of the drive wheels to the support. But overloading the rear axle is also inappropriate: handling and longitudinal stability will become worse due to the weakening of the adhesion of the front wheels to the road. In our car, the weight distribution on the front and rear axles was 40 and 60%. This ratio, according to our calculations, is close to optimal.

Moreover, rear installation The engine made it possible to position the driver more comfortably than in a buggy with a classic transmission. The seat is placed exactly along the longitudinal axis and, in accordance with the selected weight distribution, is shifted forward. In this position, the driver controls the car more accurately, and when cornering with a skid, it moves along a smaller radius. The frame is a welded tubular frame.

In its manufacture, pipes from available structural steels were used: for the main frame, safety arcs and the main load-bearing elements of the suspension beams - pipes of size 42X2.5, for side protection - 35X2.2, and for other, less loaded elements (protection of the power unit, fenders , wing brackets) - size 32X2. The assembly of the frame begins with the lower frame.

In the front part, the brackets of the lower front suspension arms are welded to its short longitudinal pipes, and the brackets of the levers are welded to the transverse beam on the opposite side. rear suspension and ears of the front support of the power unit. The operation of the undercarriage units depends on the geometric accuracy of the assembly of all elements of the lower frame; therefore, welding is carried out on a slipway of steel channels.

Then two U-shaped safety arcs are welded to the frame. Connected at the upper and middle levels by longitudinal pipes, and at the lower by transverse ones, they form a rigid frame. The front of the frame is wedge-shaped. Its dimensions allow you to place the steering mechanism, control pedals and fuel tank. On the low racks of this part of the frame, the brackets of the upper arms of the front suspension are welded, and between them on the spar are the support lugs of the shock absorber. The part of the frame behind the rear roll bar serves to mount and protect the power unit.

pendants homemade buggy- independent. Front on triangular wishbones, welded from steel pipe 28X2.5. The lower arms are reinforced with a longitudinal crossbar and have a bracket for mounting the shock absorber. Installation on the frame - through standard rubber-metal silent blocks. The ball bearings and the steering knuckle are “Zhiguli”, but the axis of the fist is machined to fit the dimensions of the Zaporozhets axle, since the wheel hubs were taken from this car.

The rear suspension is mounted on standard ZAZ trailing arms. Reinforcing steel plates 4 mm thick are welded to their ends. The shock absorber bracket and the eyelet for connecting the belt-limiter of the maximum lever travel are also attached to them. High demands are placed on the chassis of a cross-country vehicle.

The main task of the suspensions is to maximize the contact of the wheels with the ground in difficult conditions movement and effectively dampen the resulting vibrations. On the MPI buggy, the front and rear suspension arms are equipped with aviation-type hydropneumatic shock absorbers, which ensure operation with a maximum travel of 240 mm front and 300 mm - rear wheels. But more affordable spring-hydraulic shock absorbers with springs from the ZAZ front suspension and shock absorbers from trucks behave quite satisfactorily here.

The steering mechanism is rack and pinion. It is lighter and more compact than a worm gear, has a smaller gear ratio (1:10) and is therefore more convenient for a sports car. The standard ZAZ-968 engine has a power of 40 liters. s, however, it can be increased by 30-50%. Forcing methods are standard. Pistons with connecting rods are adjusted by weight. are balancing crankshaft with flywheel and clutch assembly. Improve cylinder filling combustible mixture. To do this, the inlet and outlet channels in the cylinder heads and nozzles are carefully cleaned and polished.

The joints of the connections of the head with the collectors are checked for the absence of "steps". Of the carburetors used on the ZAZ-968, we recommend choosing the DAAZ-2101-20 - it is easier to adjust. Set it to a slightly over-enriched composition: so that the engine runs without “failures” and spins up quickly. Attention should also be paid to the air purification system, monitoring the condition of the VAZ air filter element. When competing in dry weather, it quickly becomes clogged with dust and impairs the performance of the power system. Another reserve for boosting the engine is the setting of the exhaust system.

It is known that resonance phenomena in the exhaust pipe can be used to improve the cleaning of cylinders from exhaust gases. This is done by selecting the dimensions of the exhaust pipes. On our machine, one of the four-in-one methods has been successfully applied. It is calculated by an empirical formula and refined empirically. You can read more about this in the books: Nazarov M. M. Special cross-country cars - buggies. M., DOSAAF, 1980; Morozov K. A., Chernyak B. P., Sinelnikov I. I. Features of working processes of high-speed carburetor engines. 1., 1971.

Standard gearbox, gear for homemade bagia unsuitable. Fourth gear in the race is practically not necessary to use, and the range of gear ratios between second and third is too large. Therefore, we installed the third gear instead of the fourth, and instead of the third - a homemade spur gear pair. The improved box has the following gear ratios: I-3.8, II-2.118, III-1.75 and IV - 1.409.

The wide track increased the stability of the car, but forced to lengthen the axle shafts. So that they do not disengage from the main gear at the lowest position of the levers, the travel of the suspension levers was limited by strong canvas belts. The same limiters are installed in the front suspension. Discs, hubs and brake shields "Zaporozhets" used unchanged. Tires - either from "Volyn" (LuAZ), or special - NK-9.

The latter provide reliable traction when driving through mud and at the same time self-clean well, but on dry surfaces they require more skill from the driver: due to the reduction in the contact patch, the car “holds the road” somewhat worse. Sheathing the frame with duralumin sheets performs not only a decorative and protective role. It also serves as a strength element of the structure. Sheathing sheets of the driver's compartment, sidewalls, front and rear bulkheads, as well as the bottom are attached to the frame tubes with aluminum rivets. This increases the rigidity of the frame.

The thickness of the sheathing sheets at the bottom is 1.5 mm, along the sides - 1.0 mm, the remaining elements from the sheet are 0.8 mm. For greater rigidity, the sheets are zigzag. It is longer and more difficult to connect the skin with rivets than with bolts, but such a fastening is more reliable and does not come loose from shaking. Only the wing skin is bolted to its tubular frames: ease of repair or replacement in case of accidental damage is more important here. But for the same reason, tubular fenders are made removable, fixed along the sides of the machine.

Rice. 1. Frame homemade buggy assembled (right suspension arms are conditionally not shown): 1, 2 - safety arcs, 3, 4 - engine mounting brackets, 5 - protective frame of the power unit, 6 - limiter eye rear arm, 7 - arm reinforcement, 8 - rear suspension arm, 9 - removable bump stop, 10 - steering knuckle, 11 - front suspension lower arm, 12 - front suspension upper arm, 13 - shock absorber.

Rice. 2. Body frame (side view).

Rice. 3. Carcass frame with suspension arms: 1 - lower arm, 2 - side member, pipe 42X2.5, 3 - cross beam, pipe 42X2.5, 4 - rear suspension arm, 5 - shock absorber bracket, 6 - stopper eye, 7 - engine bracket.

Rice. 4. Placement of the power unit: 1 - engine, 2 - engine bracket, 3 - gearbox control lever, 4 - protective frame, 5 - exhaust system, 6 - extended axle shaft.

Rice. 5. Front suspension: 1 - wheel hub, 2 - steering knuckle, 3 - ball joint, 4 - upper arm, 5 - brake hose.

Rice. 6. Rear Suspension:
1 - limiter, 2 - shock absorber bracket, 3 - suspension arm, 4 - axle shaft.

Dear motorists, do-it-yourselfers and just readers! Before starting a story about our car, it’s worth going back to the not-so-distant past and remembering the history of unusual car- buggy. And unusual because you will not meet it either on public roads or on city streets.

Buggy is a lightweight, highly maneuverable sports car (without excessive comfort) off-road, used in racing on tracks, cross-country tracks and just on rough terrain.

Buggy first appeared in the US as a small pleasure car. On them, amateur auto designers and motorists drove along the coastal sandy strips, deserted beaches, for which these cars were nicknamed Dune Buggy - "dune (or beach) bugs."

There is no doubt that such cars first appeared in the United States in the early 1950s: by that time, in a country with a developed automobile industry, there were already many obsolete cars that were no longer allowed to drive on the roads, and throw it away, sorry. It was the local craftsmen who remade them: they removed the rusted through bodies, replacing them with thick arcs for safety; reinforced frames; boosted engines; increased ground clearance ground clearance) and the course of the suspensions ... and raced through the sand dunes of deserted beaches on them, famously on two wheels skidding turns, dodging collisions. Buggy quickly gained mass character and they began to organize competitions. Foreign motorists liked such entertainment and competitions so much that soon (in the late 1960s) buggies "crossed" American borders and spread to all continents. In our country, buggies appeared in the early 1970s and immediately after sports cars, because there were simply no donors for pleasure people.

But the origin of the type (or class) of the car is ambiguous, but most likely from English word buggy - "carriage", although many associate with bug - "beetle" ("bug", etc.), legendary German car Volkswagen firms, of which (trophy and export) there were many in the country.

Well, now I’ll move on from the history of the buggy to the description of my car.

Buggy "Borzik" (this name was later given to the car by rivals and fans) was created according to an individual project (although it is clear that the engine, as well as some other units and assemblies are manufactured industrially) for participation in autocross competitions. It was originally developed as an all-wheel drive, although this option went in stages and at first made the car only with rear-wheel drive. Start of construction - November 2005. The car left for the first tests (or rather, immediately for the competition) in 2008.

Then it was repeatedly modernized: parts, assemblies and even assemblies changed. Therefore, the descriptions of some parts may not match the drawings and photographs. At the same time, the drawings themselves are introductory, that is, you can make buggies based on them only if the dimensions are adjusted in relation to the car under construction.

Overall dimensions of the buggy: length - 3200 mm, height along the main arcs (they are also safety arcs, only located along the car) - approximately 1500 mm, width - 1800 mm. Clearance - 210 mm, wheelbase- 2540 mm, track: front wheels - 1640, rear - 1600 mm.

The frame of the car is spatial, welded from seamless cold-drawn steel (grade 30HGSA) round tube. The diameter of the pipe of the main pair of arches and protective side thresholds (there are also two of them) is 38 × 2.5 mm, other elements are made of pipes with diameters: 35 × 2.5; 30×2; 25×2; 20×1.5; 16×1.5 mm.

The roof, voluminous sides, wheel side shields, front and rear hoods are made of fiberglass.

(drawing by Andrey Anikin):

1 - engine; 2 - clutch; 3 - gearbox; 4 - adapter plate; 5 - angular gearbox; 6 - rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 7 - rear drive wheel (2 pcs.); 8 - internal hinge (CV joint) of the rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 9 - external hinge of the rear axle shaft (2 pcs.); 10 - cardan joint (3 pcs.); 11 - bearing assembly of the cardan shaft; 12 - cardan shaft; 13 - external hinge of the front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 14 front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 15 - internal hinge of the front axle shaft (2 pcs.); 16 - front gearbox; 17 - front driving steered wheel (2 pcs.); buggy chassis - superimposed projection

(drawing by Andrey Anikin):

1 – a steering wheel; 2 cardan steering shaft; 3 rail; 4-cardan joint; 5 - thrust (2 pcs.); 6 - steering knuckle lever; 7 - front steered wheel (2 pcs.); 8 – steering rod and knuckle joint (4 pcs.); 9 - seat and pilot (superimposed projection)

The wheel formula of the car is -4 × 4 (that is, the car is all-wheel drive, at first it had only rear drive). Layout - with a rear engine (the engine is located behind the pilot's back across the axis, while the crankshaft shank goes to the left side). The driver's seat is located in the center of the car.

Initially, the car was designed and made for the engine of the VAZ-2108 - 2110 family of cars. The transmission was also used from front-wheel drive "VAZ" cars.

When converting a car into an all-wheel drive version as front axle used the rear axle from the classic "Zhiguli" (rear-wheel drive cars), cutting off the "stockings" from it. From them - and cardan transmission.

The gearbox has been redesigned: the fifth gear gears have been removed, the input shaft has been shortened, and the rear cover has been removed. Instead, an adapter plate was supplied for docking and attaching an angular gearbox to the checkpoint (in the trade it is called a transfer case) - from Mitsubishi RVR. The angle gearbox is mounted on the splines of the secondary shaft. The driveline from the angular gearbox to the front axle consists of two shafts (from the VAZ-2101) rigidly connected to the gearboxes (without any couplings) on one outboard bearing. They (shafts) pass above the floor (side, left) and are covered with a casing. The floor itself is duralumin, fastened to the frame with bolts, for which the frame pipe with its inside ears are welded on.

Subsequently, he redid almost the entire car (only the frame remained practically untouched). The engine and gearbox were replaced with the corresponding units from the Kelika coupe of the Toyota company, the angular gearbox ( transfer case) I put it from the “Honda” crossover “Fit” (the driveshafts are also from it), and the front gearbox is from Subaru cars (it is prefabricated: the body is from the R-2 minicar, and the internal parts are from the Imprese) .

Everyone's pendant front wheel– on two A-arms (upper only - no bridge) with a telescopic shock absorber set at an angle of 45°. The rear suspension is made with one longitudinal and two transverse wheel levers. Shock absorbers were used with variable stiffness company Rancho. Here they are installed with a smaller angle to the vertical than the front ones. Subsequently, I replaced them with Koni and Showa shock absorbers, which can be reconfigured depending on the style and specifics of driving a particular driver.

Wheel disks with a bore diameter of 15" are light-alloy, manufactured by Master-Sport. Tires - brand Kx-25 (front) and Kx-35 (rear), with a running diameter of approximately 620 mm, summer radial tubeless studless, special for sports driving.

Body parts of the buggy body are made of fiberglass using polyester resin; fenders and mud flaps are made of sheet polyethylene. The anatomical chair, as well as the upholstery, is glued from fiberglass reinforced with Kevlar and carbon fiber.

steering rack installed in front of the front axle, connected to the steering wheel cardan shaft. Steering trapezoid - "reverse" type - rotated 180 °. steering knuckles- from VAZ-2108.

The brakes were originally used full-time (from the VAZ-2108 car), but were subsequently replaced with lighter ones - motorcycle ones (to reduce sprung masses). At the same time, the “handbrake” is combined with the brake pedal: he pressed the pedal with his foot and fixed it with the handle.

On the dashboard there are coolant temperature and on-board voltage indicators, a critical oil pressure warning light, an additional fan switch and an engine start button, also located emergency switch nutrition.

A special technical passport was issued for the buggy, and I, as a pilot, passed the certification and received a sports license.

The car was not idle in the garage - I constantly participated in various competitions on it, both regional and all-Russian scale. Repeatedly became their prize-winner and even the winner.

The life of the buggy goes on, only he has found a new owner. And I moved to another car, which I built during my performances on the Borzik.

Now, working at the Center for Young Technicians, I pass on my experience in building a buggy to a younger generation. To do this, I developed the program "Sports technical design of a buggy", according to which I work with teenagers 10-16 years old. With them began to build new car using their own and their design ideas.

A. DAVYDOV, Zlatoust, Chelyabinsk region

The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models that are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load capacity, etc. Let's look at different designs as power increases.

How to make a buggy with your own hands:

• From a motorcycle
• From OKI
• From the Cossack

From a motorcycle

A light little buggy can be assembled on the basis of an IZH or Ural motorcycle engine. It will weigh 300 kilograms, reach speeds of up to 80 km / h. In this design, motorcycle parts and small cars are used to the maximum.

From OKI

An excellent budget donor for a buggy is OKA. The hubs are light weight. Engine liquid cooling protected from overheating and not as noisy as a motorcycle. The steering rack has a sufficient margin of safety for its class. The OKI-based buggy has more cross-country ability than a production car.

From the Cossack

Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, in fact, already ready-made version buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is desirable to provide for mounting the engine backwards, for better cooling and weight distribution along the axles. In this case, you need to turn main couple(differential) by swapping the right and left sides. And to make a special gear shift drive, since the gearbox stem turns from the driver to rear bumper, and this complicates the backstage system.

Video of the process of building a buggy from Zaporozhets

Shock absorbers, as well as hubs for buggies, can be left "native". But the suspension arms will have to be made by yourself, more on that below.

For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with electronics. Although this is a matter of personal preference, the design does not change from this. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. To drive the rear wheels, the front axle shafts and hubs of the VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use the front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each one holds more than 300 kg on the car.

For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from the VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to a cropped bridge from the "classics", for example, the VAZ 2106. On rear axle pins are fixed without the ability to rotate. And the front, like on a car. The differential of the power unit, for uniform transmission of torque to the axles, is better to block.

With such an arrangement, it is worth considering that maximum speed will decrease by the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transmit rotation to the wheels not directly, but through another differential. This makes it possible to use large diameter wheels without overloading the motor.

Homemade cars mean homemade frame. For carrier frame buggy, ordinary water pipes can be used, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to consider that during a rollover, the frame must withstand the weight of the car and the force of impact. This applies to buggies of any class.

For design, you must have:

• pipe bender
• Bulgarian
• Welding machine
• Drill

It is advisable to keep trimmings of boards and bars at hand, because there is always a need to lift some frame elements and fix them in this position.

Start making the frame on a flat area. Pipes bent according to the drawings are first seized by welding, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not lead, as metal stress occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.

Front suspension

The long wishbone suspension in the form of the letter A has proven itself well, it provides a large wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of the shock absorber with the spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.

The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay attention to Special attention materials and quality of welds when assembling this part.

To reduce the wear of silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers must be designed as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.

A nuance that can later upset is the limited travel of the lower ball joint pin in its socket. In other words, the pin may be limiting suspension travel up or down in a different place than expected. This needs to be checked at the design stage.

Rear suspension

If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy it's better independent suspension. The levers can be longitudinal and transverse.

Wishbone

You can take as a sample the front suspension, which is used on many Japanese cars. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second shoulder goes forward to the center and serves as a strut that takes on the load when the car jerks.

trailing arm

For successful use trailing arms suspension requires lateral traction, otherwise the buggy will not hold the road well. The silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than on the transverse rods of the "classic".

If you decide to design a buggy at home, time will not be wasted. Even if nothing comes of it, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the work of the main components of the car. And if it works out, you will have a unique car.

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Buggy is a rather unusual vehicle. In fact, a buggy is a car from which all parts of the load-bearing body were removed, and then transplanted to an open chassis and equipped big wheels. All this is required in order to prepare the car for off-road driving, in particular on sand dunes.

The first buggies were assembled in the USA (under the name “Dune Buggy”) and the UK (the British called this proud car “Beach Buggy”, that is, “beach bug”). In general, the word "buggy", that is, "bug", came from there - the first models were made from outdated Volkswagen cars Beetle (that is, the Volkswagen Beetle), and since the new models were less lighter, the sharp-tongued Americans called the results bugs.

Since then, buggies have been used almost everywhere where there is no road - in deserts, where they have become practically hits, both in sandy and icy ones; in remote farms where they provide a cheap alternative to traditional heavy pickup trucks…

Even the US Army uses buggies based on light jeeps - when equipped with such a clumsy-looking machine gun, you can get a highly mobile firing point that will pass even where an armored personnel carrier cannot pass.

In this article, we will consider the process of building our own buggy based on an old Soviet car that was undeservedly forgotten and sent to the dustbin of history - ZAZ 968, that is, the classic forty-powered Zaporozhets.

Part 1. Design

You will need blueprints. This is an axiom. Of course, you won’t be able to comply with them 100% - after all, you don’t work at a factory, but in a garage, but the drawings will still be needed. The basis of the buggy body is metal pipes, which should form the most rigid structure, which must be calculated in advance.

However, if you are too lazy to do it yourself, or you don’t have enough knowledge, then there is always the opportunity to assemble a buggy according to the drawings that can be found on the Internet - there are many sites for fans of such cars and most of them share their experience quite freely. We used drawings from the Soviet magazine Modelist-Konstruktor, and the buggy itself is called AB-82 in it.

Part 2. Building the base

It’s worth starting with the assembly of the frame, on which other parts of the car will then be installed. The material from which you will perform this can be an ordinary iron profile pipe, it is also an “iron profile”.

In most cases, it is enough to support the weight of the engine, the rest of the car body, as well as the rider with the load. However, if you want to "show off" - you can use stronger and more expensive materials.

Worth thinking about suspension. In our case, we used a VAZ-based front suspension - it is relatively cheap and at the same time quite reliable. Here is what has changed in the process of its processing and fitting to the buggy:

The lever pipes are from the rear suspension of the VAZ Classic. The one with silent blocks. Or silent brooks, as old motorists aptly call parts of this quality abroad.

The ears for installing the blocks had to be made independently from metal 2 mm thick.

Fastening the ball joint from below is a piece of the VAZ front lever.

Above - the VAZ relay tip, which replaced the ball tip.

The camber adjustment bushing is welded to the upper arm (I had to turn to a turner, but such a strengthening of the structure was worth it). The same turner helped adapt the upper ball joint under the tip - they have different cones.

IZHP-4 shock absorbers were used ... but they should not be used - they are too weak. Later they were replaced with paired shock absorbers. A little advice - when building the suspension, try to make sure that the kinematics of the levers make the contact patch of the tire with the road maximum.

The rear suspension was made according to the method of a combined hodgepodge of several VAZ ones with a belt limiting its travel.

The front wheels were originally VAZ, but the rear ones were planned to be used from Zaporozhets. However, later it turned out that the ZAZ drum brakes were to hell and the turner ordered bushings for VAZ wheels and VAZ disk brakes, respectively.

Part 3. Installing the engine

If you continue to follow the instructions and drawings in this article - it's time to try to install the engine and gearbox. In our case, we used "native" mounts with a little "finishing with a file."

Since the drawings were not followed perfectly. Ideally, they should also stand on their relatives. A native generator relied on the motor, but it did not justify itself and was later replaced by VAZ products. Pedals are original.

An important point is that in the vase the motor is reversed, so in order to have four gears forward and one reverse, it is worth deploying the differential gear. This trick is only possible on forty-horsepower motors, so be careful. Carburetor - VAZ through an adapter.

Part 4. Making the bucket seat

The tank was installed in the form of an old five-liter canister. Later, he acquired various sensors, a beautiful hatch and other amenities.

Ready. Key to start!

It is worth noting that this design turned out to be a purely test one - the Zaporozhets engine died rather quickly and ingloriously, after which it was replaced by a VAZ with frame alterations. But the gearbox through the transition frame still feels fine ... but it was replaced by AZLK 2141 due to more high reliability last.

The seat was also replaced with an ordinary, soft RECARO GT1, and a full-fledged upper body with a dashboard was also made.

After these improvements, tests were carried out that showed an average off-road speed of 53 km / h, and a maximum recorded speed of 146.7 km / h.