What to do if the Lada Priora does not start well. Why Lada Priora does not start well on a cold one and stalls Crankshaft position sensor

Excellent, to tell the truth, the Lada Priora car. But sometimes with it, as with any other car, troubles occur. For example, starting is difficult. This can happen in the morning and after a trip. What is the reason for such problems? And these reasons are many. And this article will tell you how to deal with it.

Attention! "Lada Priora" is a car with a system of distributed fuel injection. That is, the process is controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU), so you need to remember that computer diagnostics in any case the most reliable way to check.

The main types of "bad" start

Usually, experienced drivers immediately give an assessment of the malfunction in the following way: “ Bad hot start". That is, it is clear that there are 3 types of bad launch:

  1. Bad cold start.
  2. It doesn't start well when the engine is hot.
  3. It doesn't start well in any condition.

This means that these three types have their own characteristics, although they are united by one sign - the car does not start well. But in the first case, this only happens when the car is cold. Either this is the first morning launch, or the Priora has stood long enough for the engine to cool completely, or a harsh winter.

In the second case, Priora does not start immediately, but only after several full turns of the starter crankshaft only when the motor has a temperature above 90 degrees. That is a fully warmed up engine. Usually after a run.

Well, the third option, when the "Priora" is naughty in any conditions. Whether in the morning, afternoon or evening, on a cold or hot engine.
Here we will consider the minimum possibilities that the owner has to solve this problem on his own.

Hot

So, the car drove some distance. In the morning it started up with a half turn, and forward. But then a certain distance was covered, a stop was made, the key was set to "start" and ... A few painful revolutions, and only then the engine started working. What happened? As a rule, there can be many reasons. Conventionally, they can be divided into groups:

  • The fuel system is junk.
  • Errors or breakdowns of sensors or actuators of the control system.
  • Engine wear.

Attention! The first group has its own characteristics when manifested in all forms. When it starts badly on hot, cold and in both cases.

The first step is to look at the presence of fuel in the injector frame. Gasoline supply is the most likely cause of the problem. To do this, you need to open the hood and remove the decorative trim from the motor. Between the engine and the radiator "Priora" passes intake manifold. Under it is a fuel rail. In the end part there is a special bypass valve, closed with a plastic cover. It must be unscrewed and pressed on the core. There should be a strong ejection of fuel.

Important! It is best to have a special fuel gauge for this check. This will give a 100% guarantee of verification accuracy.

When connecting this device, you must not try to start, turn on the ignition. The pressure must be at least 2.6.
There is another option. Not as reliable, but quite usable. Download several times before starting if the Priora does not start well. That is, without turning on the starter, wait for the fuel pump to turn off, turn off the ignition and turn it on again without the starter. So several times. And then spin the motor. If the start has improved, then the pressure was not enough, and you need to check the filters and the fuel pump.

And another reason related to fuel system, this is a banal clogging of the nozzles, it gives the effect of a bad start to the same extent. But here it is only a check by a specialist of the entire fuel frame on a special stand.

Electronic part of the check

Here it is worth immediately clarifying. There can be no talk of any full-fledged installation of the cause of a poor start without computer diagnostics. Although several positions can be checked.
The easiest way is to check the operation of the Priora cylinders. To do this, you need to remove the decorative cover, start the engine and leave it for idling. Let it run a little and try to remove the connectors from the ignition modules one by one.

Here you need a good ear and attentiveness. It is necessary to clearly determine which of the cylinders is turned off, the work rhythm changes the least.

  1. Unscrew the bolts of the modules from the "bad" and any other cylinder with a 10 key.
  2. Swap them and fix them.
  3. Repeat the procedure with listening. If the signs of a “bad” start have moved to another “boiler”, then the ignition module is to blame. And replace it.
  4. If there is no change, then swap the spark plugs.
  5. Repeat the procedure again. If there are no changes, then either the nozzle or wear in the cylinder is to blame.

In addition, one of the main sensors that control the launch of Priora is the sensor mass flow air (DMRV).

This is a very delicate instrument. It is the DMRV that reads the amount of fuel passing into the cylinders, and based on its data, the control unit doses the supply of gasoline. When the sensor starts to act up, the computer pours fuel in "emergency" mode. That is, as if pouring fuel. This happens because the sensor shows more air than it actually goes.
We will have to repeat, as in any case, only computer diagnostics can reveal this. However, an experienced craftsman, or an experienced owner, can determine the malfunction of this sensor by removing the connector during operation. Depending on the type of control unit, the speed should either drop and the car will stall, or rise to 1,500 rpm.
Can also affect poor start and position sensor throttle valve(TPDZ), and the actuator - the regulator idle move(XX). But only diagnostics can reveal them.

crankshaft position sensor

This is the main device that gives the signal to start. If it fails, the car simply won't start. But there is a small nuance. If the damper is dirty, or a lot of dirt has stuck to the sensor itself, then a "bad start" effect may appear. But this is easy enough to check. This device is mounted on the oil pump housing to the left of the toothed pulley. In case of a bad start, just visually examine its condition, if necessary, clean it.

Poor starting when the engine is worn

This is a rather rare occurrence. In general, the VAZ 2170 Priora engines are quite durable when proper care. But as they say, there is a hole in the old woman. In this case, engine wear is determined by the dark exhaust from the pipe and increased consumption oils.
Well, in general, and here you need expert advice. The motor must be inspected by a mechanic. And do a compression test.

On a cold

Morning, the key to start. The starter cranks the engine, but the Priora did not start right away. Where to start? In general, most of the reasons are the same as with a bad start “hot”. The only difference between the second option is that here, more often there is a breakdown in the electronic part. That is, the sensors executive mechanisms"Priors" are junk. By the way, a separate topic is the launch of "Priora" in the cold. Although cars with distributed injection themselves endure frost an order of magnitude better than carburetor ones. While with a “hot start”, more often the problem is in the fuel system.
At the same time, if the Priora does not start well in any condition, then most often it is engine wear.

But it must be remembered that The most reliable verification method for Priora is computer diagnostics. The methods described here, of course, will help an experienced driver find and fix a minor breakdown, but only diagnostics will reveal a specific malfunction.

By the way! Recently, mobile scanners have become very popular. Yes, this is a good help. You just need to know that in addition to a “smart” device, at least knowledge and experience are needed. The fact is that many of the troubles described here are not identified by the control unit as a breakdown. They can be identified only by an experienced diagnostician using graphic observations.

Did you let the car down?

Car owners complain that their car does not start well when hot. If in the morning the vehicle can be started well, then after a slight drive and a plug to start the engine, you will need to turn the starter by pressing the gas. At the same time, it starts to smell like gasoline and troit for a few seconds.

  • fuel and air filters,
  • installing a thick textolite gasket under the fuel pump,
  • nozzles,
  • ignition module,
  • water temperature sensor.

If the car does not start well when cold, then the problem may be due to the use of low-quality gasoline. In this case, it is necessary to refuel only at proven gas stations. Another reason why Priora starts up worse in cold weather is the loss of part of its capacity by the battery. The starter turns harder. The oil loses its viscosity, becoming thick. At low temperatures it is recommended to pour synthetic.

As a rule, it takes 1-2 rotations of the starter armature shaft to start the car. A vehicle that is in good condition will not start badly when hot or cold. To do this, auto mechanics advise owners of Lada Priora to adhere to the following recommendations:

Advice

clarification

Pour a lot of gasoline into the tank.Otherwise, condensation will form. Water cannot enter the fuel.
Before you start the car in the cold, you need to turn on the high beam for a couple of seconds.This step will allow in cold weather to restore part of the capacity of the machine due to the vehicle processes.
If there is an injector, then you will need to turn on the ignition and wait. At the carburetor it is necessary to pump up gasoline manually.During this time, normal pressure will be created in the fuel system. In any case, you do not need to overdo it, as the spark plugs will flood.
You can add some gasoline to the oil before leaving home.The car will cool down, and the oil will not lose its viscosity. When the car starts, the gasoline evaporates. The main thing is not to pour fuel.

Check all components of the ignition system

Working in winter - problem solving

Auto mechanics recommend Priora owners to start the car correctly in the cold season. When starting the car, do not turn the starter for more than 20 seconds. Otherwise, the battery will quickly run out, but the Lada will not start. To warm up the car, you need to turn on the dipped beam for 1-2 minutes.

Availability injection engine does not include pressing the gas pedal at start-up. For a manual transmission, you will need to depress the clutch pedal before starting. You can not start Lada with a push, as this can harm her.

If the car does not start, then you need to open the hood and check the spark plugs, and also see if the wires are attached to the battery. An extreme method of starting an engine is to use an ether compound. It needs to be injected into the intake manifold. You can buy this tool in a specialized car shop.

Main reasons

First, check the battery

“I start the Priora, but the starter does not turn.” How to solve this problem, not all car owners know. There are several reasons for this condition. The battery needs to be checked first. If it is faulty or not charged, respectively, the starter does not turn. Contacts must be well tightened and oxidized. If a click occurs when the ignition is turned on, then the wires are normal and power is supplied. The battery will need to be charged. If the lights go out when the ignition is turned on, then you need to charge the old power supply or install a new one.

The starter does not turn and there is no click - the main reasons for checking the battery on another machine. In the case of a quick start of the car, you will need to check the wiring on the first vehicle. Often the power supply is working, but the starter does not turn. In such a situation, the nickels in the solenoid relay are checked, as well as the generator brushes. If there is smoke coming from the starter, then it will need to be replaced.

Due to a break in the ground wire connecting the body to the power unit, the car will not start. This is due to the heating of the brake cable, clutch or gas. This happens when, after repair, it is not put in place. If the starter turns, but the engine does not spin, then the ring in the gearbox of the first unit has burst and needs to be replaced.

Hot work

Problems with the engine arise not only in frost, but also in the freshly working Lada. Many car owners are faced with a situation where a hot engine does not start after a stop. Some drivers start to turn the starter, discharging the battery.

Smoke is a warning sign

The main problem is that when the engine is running, a large amount of air passes through the carburetor, due to which the engine cools. The same happens with gasoline. When the engine is running, the carburetor temperature is lower than the engine temperature. This difference is only stored during the workflow. As soon as the engine stops, the carburetor begins to heat up intensely from the red-hot engine case.

Since there is no air flow, it heats up to the temperature of the motor in a couple of minutes. Remaining in float chamber gasoline begins to evaporate rapidly due to high temperature, thus filling the voids, including the intake manifold, carburetor and air filter. Gradually, the fuel evaporates, and nothing remains in the float chamber.

The duration of this process depends on the idle time after a long trip, including the ambient temperature. If the engine is started within 5-30 minutes, then a mixture enriched with fuel vapor will enter the combustion chamber. As a result, the spark plugs will flood, and the car will not start.

Solving major problems

In order for the engine to start well on a hot one, it is necessary to follow certain instructions. The main task is to combine the mixture to start the engine. When starting a hot engine, depress the gas pedal halfway. With frequent pressure on the gas, the situation can become more complicated.

In some cases, Priora stalls during her movement. Usually this phenomenon is typical for summer weather, when the ambient temperature exceeds +25 degrees. The main reason is gas plugs in the fuel pump. They do not give normally. As a result, nothing remains in the float chamber, since no fuel enters it.

This problem can be solved by cooling the fuel pump. To do this, you need to take a damp cloth and wrap it around fuel pump. This method is relevant for Priora with an all-metal fuel pump. Models in which glass is used, this method is ineffective, since the glass will burst from temperature changes. If prolonged cooling did not contribute to starting a hot engine, then the problem is in the fuel pump.

Engine starting problems

Many Priora car owners are faced with a situation where the starter turns, but the car does not start. Before finding out the reasons for the breakdown of this transport, it is recommended to find out the principle of operation of the starter. This device is presented in the form of an electric motor with a gear that engages with the engine flywheel and rotates it when it starts. On the case there is a retractor relay, which is designed to control the course of the gear and auto start electric motor.

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, power is supplied to the relay and is drawn in by the electromagnet, moving the gear and at the same time closing the contacts. Thus, the electric motor is started. When the ignition key is released, power is no longer supplied to the relay magnet. The last element works in the opposite direction, opening the contacts. As a result, the operation of the electric starter stops.

If the starter turns, the battery is in good condition, but the car does not start, then it is recommended:

  • touch the wires that come from the power supply. In case of their heating, the contact in their connection with the battery is checked,
  • put the clamps in place
  • check the connection of the earth terminal with the body,
  • turn the ignition key to the “start” position and measure the voltage at the connector using a tester,
  • check if power is supplied to the relay from the ignition switch by disconnecting the connector from the solenoid relay.

Spark plugs may be faulty.

Otherwise, you will need to remove the starter. To do this, disconnect the terminals from the battery and unscrew the air filter. After dismantling it, it turns away and removes the positive wire from the starter terminal. After disconnecting the connector from the relay, the fastening nuts of the last unit are unscrewed.

An important point in this matter is to check the operation of the relay. With the help of emergency wires for “lighting up”, the negative wire from the battery is connected to the electric starter housing. Positive - closes to the relay connector. In this case, the last element should work by throwing the gear forward. Otherwise, the relay will need to be replaced.

Lada Priora is a family of cars of the Volga Automobile Plant, which replaced the Lada 110 family of cars. Priora has been significantly improved and refined. But like most cars domestic production, with it very often there are problems. One of the most common problems is that the car does not pull.

Pulling a car or not pulling depends on many factors, most related to work power plant. Although there is a possibility of failure of other mechanisms of the Lada Priora.

Loss of traction not related to the engine

The engine is the tireless heart of the car

If the engine does not arouse suspicion, and the car does not pull, then this indicates a clutch malfunction. Destruction of the lining of the clutch disc or damage to the springs leads to the fact that the clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox only partially, slipping occurs.

With such a malfunction, any car, including Priora, pulls very badly.

It is quite easy to identify this error. When slipping, the lining of the driven disk overheats greatly, and a specific smell appears. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing worn or damaged clutch elements.

Loss of thrust due to a power failure

But still, if a drop in power is noticed, and the car pulls poorly, you need to look for the cause in the power unit.

As with most cars, in the event of a malfunction such as loss of power, the check must begin with the engine power system, the ignition system and the gas distribution mechanism.

Cause

Description

Poor quality fuelSuch gasoline, having a large amount of impurities and water, causes engine interruptions and loss of power. In order to get rid of the consequences of using low-quality gasoline, it will be necessary to flush the power system.
Gasoline pump.In some cases, when the car drives normally at low revs, and a drop in power is observed only at higher revs, it indicates that the performance of the fuel pump does not correspond to these revs. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to check the condition of the fuel pump, if necessary, flush it and check the performance.
Fuel filterWith severe contamination, its throughput is significantly reduced, and the required amount of fuel does not enter the cylinders.
nozzlesIn case of malfunction of these elements of the power supply system of the power unit, its unstable operation and a drop in power occur. Often the problem of injector malfunction is solved by flushing the power system.

Diagnostics of the fuel pump

If all fuel supply mechanisms are working properly, the air supply system should be checked:
Need to check status air filter, if heavily soiled, it is replaced.

After checking the filter, you need to pay attention to the performance of the mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor.

When they work incorrectly the electronic unit control, they give readings that do not correspond to the driving mode, which leads to a loss.

If everything is in order with the power system, but the car does not pull, you should check the oxygen concentration sensor in the exhaust gases, also known as the lambda probe. If it malfunctions, the car begins to consume fuel and lose power.

Loss of traction due to faulty ignition system

Followed by . Glow plugs are checked first. They must supply a spark to the cylinder at the right moment. If interruptions in the operation of the candle are noticed, you should also check the ignition coil, which supplies voltage to the faulty candle, at the same time, it is quite possible that the malfunction lies in it.

After checking the candles and coils, you need to pay attention to the position sensors of the crankshaft and camshaft. Incorrect data from these sensors, which they transmit to the control unit, can cause interruptions in engine performance. In case of detection of interruptions in the functioning of these sensors, they are replaced.

The electronic control unit (ECU) is checked last in the ignition system, since it is responsible for the fuel supply and the correct timing of sparking. Violation in his work often leads to a significant loss of power. In some cases, in order to restore the efficiency of the computer, it is necessary to carry out its firmware. Often the firmware removes the problem of power loss of the power plant. But there are times when a replacement control unit is required.

Loss of traction due to improper assembly or engine wear

Often the problem of power loss of the power unit is the mismatch between the position of the camshaft mark and the mark on the housing, due to which the valve timing is disturbed in the engine.

First, the coincidence of the camshaft marks is checked. With the correct position of the marks on the camshaft, you should also check the coincidence of the marks on the crankshaft. Often a mismatch in labels occurs on it.

The classic way to start a broken car

Incorrect adjustment of the valve clearances of the gas distribution mechanism can also cause a loss of power of the power plant. If the gaps are set incorrectly, the valve timing is disturbed, which leads to a decrease in the power of the power plant. To eliminate the malfunction, check the valve clearances and, if necessary, make adjustments.

Finally, you should check the compression in the engine cylinders. With heavy wear compression rings compression in the cylinders drops, which leads to a decrease in engine power. The fault is eliminated by replacing the rings.

Priora engine resource: we study design and resource features

17.12.2016

Lada Priora (2171) is one of the sales leaders among domestic cars. Not so long ago, this car replaced the tenth Vaz family on our roads. And although at its core, Priora is a restyled version of the "dozens", but, nevertheless, it is absolutely new car and, not only externally, but also technically. But is it worth buying a used Lada Priora or is it better to prefer a more old foreign car This is the question we will try to answer today.

A bit of history:

Debut of Lada Priora on domestic market took place in 2007, although the prototype was presented back in 2003 year. At first, the car was produced only in the sedan, a little later, when the model began to gain popularity, the manufacturer began to produce a car in the back - a hatchback, station wagon and even a coupe. Priora was developed to replace the 10th Lada family, and unlike its predecessors, the novelty received completely new components and assemblies, which were manufactured according to new technology. In 2008, he carried out a revision of the body, which made it possible to significantly improve not only its rigidity, but also passive safety car.

Problem areas Lada Priora with mileage

Paintwork and anti-corrosion treatment of the body is not the most best quality as a result, corrosion on the car body is quite common. Rust hits the fastest: wheel arches(in places where the fender liner is attached), the inside of the front and rear doors, side skirts and hood. Also, headlight bulbs are not famous for their quality and reliability. Not infrequently, after rain, moisture can be found in the trunk in the niches under the headlights, but, according to the manufacturer this shortcoming does not require modifications, since plugs for draining water are installed there.

Engines

Lada Priora was equipped only with gasoline power units 1.6 - index 21126 (98 hp) and 21127 (106 hp). Operating experience has shown that both types of engines are quite reliable and unpretentious in maintenance, but, nevertheless, some shortcomings in them have been identified, the main of which are considered to be: loss of power and unstable operation of the engine. One of the most weaknesses motors are sensors, they can fail at any mileage, and believe me, they do it quite often. Another common problem is the failure of the throttle valve and the burnout of the cylinder head gasket. Also, on some specimens, in severe frosts, it squeezes out the camshaft plugs, as a result of which oil flows out of the engine very quickly.

It happens that in the early stages of life the thermostat valve fails, therefore, do not forget to periodically look at the engine temperature indicator. The ignition coils and the fuel pump are not famous for their durability. The timing drive is equipped with a belt, the manufacturer claims that its service life is about 200,000 km, however, practice has shown that the cause of the valves and cylinders meeting is jamming of the support or tension roller or pump failure. Therefore, it is recommended to change the rollers at least twice as often as prescribed in the regulations, and also periodically check the degree of tension and the condition of the belt.

Transmission

Lada Priora was equipped with only a five-speed mechanical box gears. This box is not a standard of quality and reliability, as a result, the transmission is constantly in need of refinement and adjustment. The main disadvantage of Priora, as in principle, and other models produced by AvtoVAZ, are weak synchronizers. A signal about their wear and the need for replacement will soon be a crunch when shifting gears. In this model, a reinforced clutch from the LUK company is installed, however, the problem of rattling release bearing at idle occurs on every second car. Also, many owners blame the constant noise in the box, which disappears only when the clutch is depressed. The manufacturer does not recognize this noise as a breakdown and calls it “a feature of the operation of the unit”. In order to extend the transmission service lines, many servicemen recommend changing the oil in the box at least once every 75,000 km.

Reliability running Lada Priora

Owners of foreign cars love to tell stories about the Lada suspension, about how the car falls apart on the go. Perhaps earlier these rumors were justified, but now we can say with confidence that in terms of reliability, the suspension is not much inferior to most budget foreign cars. Like everyone else modern cars, in front of the Lada Priora, a MacPherson-type suspension is installed, in the back - a transverse beam. Adjustment of shock absorber settings, revision of springs and strengthening front stabilizer made the chassis of the Priors more knocked down, also, this allowed to increase the service life of many suspension parts.

Most often they bother the owners of the bushings and stabilizer struts, they have to be changed every 10-20 thousand km. Steering tips and hub bearings, on average, take care of 40-50 thousand km. ball joints and shock absorber support bearings can withstand no more than 70,000 km. CV joints, silent blocks and shock absorbers have a sufficiently large margin of safety and, with careful operation, can travel up to 100,000 km. Original quality brake pads leaves much to be desired, therefore, it is better to replace them with better analogues. When diagnosing, pay attention to the behavior of the electric power steering, the fact is that on cars of the first years of production, this unit may not work correctly, because of which you can suddenly fly off the road. A signal about the presence of a malfunction of the amplifier will be: a heavy steering wheel and jerks when the steering wheel is slowly turned. To fix the problem, it is necessary to clean or restore the contacts of the electrical wiring of the assembly.

Salon

Compared to previous AvtoVAZ models, Lada Priora looks more like a foreign car, but this is not a merit domestic manufacturer, so, for example, the design of the torpedo was borrowed from Ford Mondeo 3. But, unfortunately, the quality remains the same as before - at a very low level. Absolutely everything rattles in the cabin, and the older the car gets, the more instruments this orchestra has. To partially eliminate squeaks and mortars, pasting the joints of plastic elements with exhaust-absorbing materials will help. Not famous for its reliability and electrical equipment. Most often they fail: power windows, a stove fan, and all kinds of sensors often fail. Fortunately, to eliminate any of the above problems does not require serious investment.

Outcome:

Answering the question: "Is it worth buying a used Lada Priora?". Even after realizing that this car suffers from a large number of "sores" and shortcomings, it can still be recommended for purchase. It is worth noting that for most of the above problems, methods of treatment have long been invented and tested in practice. In addition, the cost of spare parts is much lower than that of most competitors, and if you have even the slightest idea about the structure of the car, you can perform simple repairs yourself.

If you are the owner of this car model, please describe the problems that you had to face during the operation of the car. Perhaps it is your review that will help readers of our site when choosing a car.

Sincerely, editorial Autoavenue

The solution to the problem comes from the cause of the malfunction. If you leave the battery in the cold in the car, its discharge may be the best possible outcome.

Therefore, do not be lazy to remove the battery and take it to a warm apartment for the night if your car lives on the street or in an unheated garage.

Concerning engine oil- This is a common mistake novice motorists make. Bought a car in the summer summer oil, and even with mineral, but before the frosts did not drain. Here it also freezes, and quickly enough. If you are faced with such a problem - there is nothing to do. There is a temporary solution, but quite dangerous. It is necessary to pour a little gasoline into the oil filler neck and crank the crankshaft with the starter several times, then leave the car for 24 hours. The oil will become less thick, but in this case you will soon have to change:

  1. Rings.
  2. Oil caps.

Therefore, immediately advice for novice motorists: with the onset of frost, drain mineral oil from the engine. The sooner you do this, the lower the risk of a problem. Experienced drivers it is advised to pour semi-synthetics for the winter, which can withstand much lower temperatures.

Other reasons why the car won't start


If you are sure that everything is in order with the battery and oil, then you need to consider other likely causes of the failure. It is possible that they will require additional time and effort from you. Consider the most common occurrences:

  • fuel system problems. There can be many reasons for this, ranging from problems with the gasoline pump to freezing water in the fuel rail;
  • failure of the antifreeze temperature control sensor, which also prevents the engine from starting on a cold one. In this case, it will need to be replaced;
  • lack of tightness in the nozzles. Depressurization is allowed at the level of 1-2 drops per minute, but no more. If a depressurization occurs, the pressure in the fuel rail will quickly decrease after the engine is stopped, so if you manage to start, be sure to follow this up. In this case, you will have to install new nozzles.

Separately, it is necessary to consider such a case as a drop in compression in the cylinders. Symptoms of a malfunction are easy to notice by the behavior of the car: engine power and dynamic qualities drop significantly. The engine can triple and absorb more fuel. It is not difficult to identify the problem; this requires a special device - a compression gauge. It is recommended to visit the service station, where you will be measured in compliance with all the rules, or you can take it at home.

If the pressure in the cylinders has collapsed, this often indicates the wear of the engine as a whole. Actually, there is a fairly simple way to check the guess. It is necessary to pour 1 tablespoon of oil into the hole for the candle, and then repeat the measurements. The results may be as follows:

  1. Sudden jump. This suggests that piston rings depressurized.
  2. Indications unchanged. There can be a lot of reasons here, ranging from the lack of tightness of the valves to the burnout of the combustion chamber.

If the pressure of the cylinders is normal, then you need to deliver the car to the service station and conduct an in-depth engine diagnostics, the problem is very serious.

Car doesn't start well


If the car does not start well when cold, then everything is not so bad. The reasons are completely removable even at home. As a rule, the problems lie in the following:

  • disgusting quality of gasoline. If the refill has over-diluted it, there will be too much water in the tank. Try visiting another gas station;
  • ignition problems. It is often difficult to start the engine due to problems with high voltage wires and spark plugs;
  • oxygen sensor malfunction.
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