How to take care of a car with auto chemicals?

Modern chemistry can work wonders, and the constant use of car cosmetics brings a more effective result. Car care must be constant and accurate, then the reward in the form of a clean and sparkling car is guaranteed.

In this article we will talk about how to take care of the car with the help of autocosmetics and autochemistry.

What auto chemical product to choose for a car?

Manufacturers have thoroughly worked to make motorists dizzy from the range of products offered. But autocosmetics is not cheap. So what to choose when the budget is limited, but you want your car to sparkle like new?

First, take a critical look at your car and answer a few questions:

• What is the condition of the paintwork (paintwork) - are there any chips, scratches, stains, abrasions, rust spots?
• Does it suit you appearance interior parts - upholstery, instrument panel, glass, seat upholstery.
• Is there any damage to the plastic bumpers?

Having discovered what exactly does not suit the appearance of the car, answer the question more difficult: "What do I want to achieve?"

And it is from this moment that the formation of a "cosmetic bag" for a car begins - after all, it is clear that before the owner of a "new foreign car" and the owner of " old car"there are completely different tasks. If the first needs to keep and protect the car in its original form, then it is vital for the other to keep the car in good appearance.

The main types of auto chemicals

1. Car shampoos - dissolve in water and are used to wash the car. May contain polishing additives that give the paintwork shine and short-term protection from environmental influences. Read more in the article Choosing a car shampoo for a manual car wash.

2. Shampoo cleaners (in a concentrated form, they remove persistent insect stains, resins with paintwork, in a diluted form, they are used as a regular car shampoo.

3. Waterless washes - are used for local removal of contaminants (for example, bird droppings) from the body and trim parts of the car.

4. Polishes. About polishes are described in detail in the article Polishes for a car. Purpose and main types.

5. Plastic, vinyl and rubber cleaners in car interiors - cleanse, refresh color and give the new kind upholstery and trim details. Well dissolve plaque from tobacco smoke, traces of oil, resin. With regular use, they protect the skin parts from cracking and premature aging. Good result when removing traces of polish from the edging of glass, moldings and other body elements. Do not damage the paintwork of the car.

6. Wheel cleaners - used to care for the surfaces of discs, remove dirt from the tar, allow you to extend the life of the surface. They are used for expensive forged and cast wheels.

7. Insect and tar surface cleaners - remove traces of insects and other stubborn dirt, dissolve bitumen, remove old stains.

8. Instrument panel polishes - gently cleanse and give a new, shiny look plastic parts, dashboard. Condition the surface and prevent further dust build-up. Usually available in aerosol form.

9. Engine cleaners - subdivided into foam (subject to further washing with water, after the dissolution of contaminants) and liquids for wiping surfaces engine compartment. Effectively dissolve deposits of stubborn dirt.

10. Glass cleaners - compositions with ammonia (marked “With Ammonia”) for wiping glasses. Remove dirt, plaque from tobacco smoke.

11. Anti-rain - special composition applied to clean, dry car glass, side mirrors. Improves visibility when driving in the rain, allows you to do without “wipers” for some time. Read more in the article: anti-rain for cars - personal experience use.

12. Glass polishes - the ability to grind off small scratches and scuffs with windshield clearly exaggerated. Effective on new glasses, gives a “crystal” transparency. A good effect is achieved when polishing headlight glasses. Read more in the article: do-it-yourself car glass polishing

13. Cleaners and polishes for plastic and vinyl - used to renew the appearance of plastic bumpers and tires, restore a "new" look, add shine and protect against premature aging.

14. Chrome cleaners and polishes Removes corrosion from bumpers and other chrome surfaces and protects against new stains.

15. Rust converters - for etching of spots of corrosion and preparation of the processed surface for touch-up. Two main categories: for local application and for the treatment of large surfaces damaged by corrosion. Read more in the article: tips on how to deal with rust on your car

16. Repair (wax) pencils - used for cosmetic repair of scratches and small chips, protective polishing is required over the pencil. The pencil does not lie on “flat” chips; there is nothing for it to “catch” on when applied. Places treated with a wax pencil require periodic renewal, since the touch-up result is not very durable.

17. Repair bottles - small bottles of instant acrylic paint, used to touch up chips. A small brush is inserted into the lid of the bottle, which allows you to handle small chips and scratches. Before application, the surface must be rinsed, remove traces of corrosion and degrease (with white spirit).

How to wash your car with car shampoo?

Regular and high-quality car washing is an extension of the life of the paintwork. Regular visits to the car wash are not cheap, so many, especially in the warm season, wash your car yourself. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for washing to be carried out on the shore of a swamp with dirty water and sand. Such a wash in the future will only bring disappointment - the paintwork will be damaged and it will take a lot of effort, time and money to restore it. So this section is about how to wash your car properly and effectively without damaging the paintwork.

You will need a bucket, a large sponge with large pores (it is easier to wash sand out of them) or a brush with soft bristles on a long handle, a large, clean, lint-free rag (or a special “scraper” - like on sinks), .

WARNING: Never use washing powders to wash your car as the paint will lose its shine very quickly. If you don’t have money for car shampoo, wash your car with just water.

We pour a bucket of clean water - and with a sponge we begin to wash off the upper dirt from the body. The sponge must be squeezed and rinsed very carefully so that the sand falls back onto the body as little as possible and there are no scratches left. The water in the bucket must be replaced with clean water as it gets dirty. When changing water, rinse the sponge and bucket from the remnants of sand. Do not forget to open the doors and wash the sidewalls - a lot of dust accumulates on them. Attention: wheel disks, arches, thresholds are washed last.

After the dirt is washed off, you need to pour clean water into the bucket, add shampoo and lightly beat it into a foam. Depending on how dirty the machine is, the amount added may vary. The usual dosage recommended by the car shampoo manufacturer is from 0.5 to several caps, but this indication should be adjusted so that the shampoo lathers well. Rinse the car thoroughly with a shampoo solution, squeezing the sponge from the dirty solution and changing it as it gets dirty. Separate, most persistent stains should be washed locally with a concentrated shampoo or an agent to remove this type of stain should be applied.

To wash out the shampoo, pour clean water and rinse the machine thoroughly. No need to feel sorry for the water it is best to wash off the roof by “freewheeling” - pouring a bucket of water on top of it . Poorly rinsed shampoo (especially with wax polishing additives) will leave streaks and stains, so rinse thoroughly.

The washed car must be wiped. Well, if there is a “scraper” with an elastic band - it will allow you to remove water and almost dry. But you can get by with a large rag - a clean piece of an old sheet will do. We cover, for example, the roof, let the water soak slightly into the fabric and slowly pull the rag off the edges. A microscopic amount of water remains, which dries instantly. Thus, “in one touch” we wipe the entire car. Glasses, mirrors, headlights wipe separately.

Touch up scratches and chips. How does this happen?

Chips, scratches, swollen paint bubbles - all these are pockets of corrosion. They are especially dangerous in winter, as salty moisture gets on the metal, which greatly accelerates corrosion. Before using autocosmetics, all these “pimples” must be carefully treated and neutralized.

scratch treatment

1. Scratches on the top layer of paint - “hair” scratches or “rays” can be completely hidden with a wax pencil and/or color-enriched polish. For deeper, finer scratches, a wax pencil will do. Before applying the composition of the pencil, rinse the scratches from dirt - white spirit is suitable. Can be polished with abrasive polish. If the scratches are wide, touch-up will be required. The paint must be very carefully applied to the scratch, trying not to smear around.

2. Scratches down to the ground - especially thin ones can be repaired with a pencil, but it will have to be updated periodically, since the durability of such processing is not very good. Wider ones need to be painted. In order not to go beyond the boundaries, you can circle the scratch around the perimeter with a narrow band-aid or adhesive tape. Tinting should be done in two layers, paint layers should be thin.

3. Scratch to metal - sealing only with tinting. Moreover, on primed machines, at least one thin layer of primer is recommended - in addition to an additional layer (since the depth is decent), applying primer will allow the paint to stick better. After the primer has dried, apply the paint in 2-3 thin coats and dry thoroughly. If yellowness is detected, etch with mineral spirits to bare metal, wipe with a damp, then dry cloth and apply On-Rust primer (primers with anti-corrosion additives applied to a surface affected by rust).

4. Scratches on painted plastic bumpers - it makes sense a neat tint from a repair bottle.

Chip treatment

Chipped paint. Despite the seeming harmlessness, the chips are quite insidious - in these places the car begins to rust, “blooms”. Therefore, it is desirable to regularly conduct an "audit" and repair these defects.

Sealing chips is similar to repairing scratches, with the exception of one moment - the chip has a small depth and a relatively large surface. Therefore, a wax pencil is practically useless. And it’s better to tint all the same (if the chip is to the metal, this is a must, if it’s to the ground, you can try retouching it with a color-enriched polish and covering it with a protective one). In case of emergency, it is recommended to at least cover the chips with Movil until "better times" - a little unaesthetically, but rust will not go. Subsequently, the Movil can be washed off (with white spirit) and slowly repair the damaged area.

Before touching up and polishing, chips must be cleaned of yellowness (if any), degreased with white spirit.

paint bubbles

A phenomenon well known to owners - the paint swells with bubbles, which then burst, exposing points of corrosion. If such a defect is found, it is better not to wait until the paint “peels off” , exposing the rusty metal, and open the vial, carefully remove the lagging paint to the place of a reliable connection with the metal, rinse the area with white spirit.

The prepared "hole" (it turns out to be quite deep) is tinted in several layers. As the first layer, a primer can be used, which can be applied to corroded metal. Fill the hole with paint in several layers, bringing it to the level of the paintwork surface, then you can polish it to remove the tint border.

Car care. Problems and Solutions

Below are the most common cases in which the owner of the car decides that polishing is necessary, as well as general recommendations on the use of drugs depending on the case.

Care new car

Taking care of a new car pays off. Fewer paint chips as the protection strengthens the paintwork to a certain extent. It is easier to clean, the dirt does not stick as much, the machine retains its “new” look longer and is less sensitive to moisture and salt. We recommend polishing with a color-enriched polish (v autumn-winter period), in the summer you can get by with protective polishing.

Used car care

Even the most used car can be maintained in good condition. It is necessary to monitor chips, scratches, corrosion spots, repair them efficiently and on time. And for such a machine, you will need both abrasive and color-enriched and protective polishing.

Repair scratches and chips, eliminate corrosion spots on the body. Carry out abrasive polishing until the smoothness and gloss of the paintwork is restored, polish with a color-enriched polish (preferably with polishing paste to obtain a denser layer). The final layer is a protective polish.

Pre-sale preparation

What is the first thing a potential buyer notices? That's right, the look of the car. And he must be attractive. Therefore, in this case, it is necessary that the car shine with a "deep" shine. And here polishing with wax or wax polish will come in handy with preliminary preparation by an abrasive (if necessary).

If the car is old, remove chips, scratches and corrosion spots, treat with abrasive polish. Next, polish with a good "wax" polish. Do not forget about the elements of plastic and chrome trim, interior cleaning.

Self defense against corrosion

Polishing with a protective polish, with the obligatory and careful control of corrosion points and chips. It is performed before the start of the unfavorable season and, if possible, during this season. It is especially important when preserving the car for the winter. Carefully close chips and scratches, if necessary, polish with a color-enriched polish. Next, treat with a protective polish with Teflon.

Blurred paint, streaks, lack of gloss

Usually, this is the result of poor paintwork or simply the age of the car. Everything can be fixed, but you have to work. The dullness of the coating is removed by polishing with abrasive polishes, and it may be necessary to polish it several times, first with a coarser polish, then with a more delicate one, and cover it with a protective layer. Depending on the condition of the paintwork, abrade one or more times until the surface shines. Make a protective polish with urethane or Teflon.

Stains, streaks, uneven discoloration

The result of a local (independent) touch-up, the difference in shades in tone. Poor paint selection. It is not always corrected successfully, but something can be done. Stubborn stains are also left by unwashed bird droppings, used oil, this is especially true for a non-new paintwork that already has microcracks. Depending on the nature of the defect, polish with an appropriate type of abrasive polish, make a protective polish.

Scratched paintwork

Scratches in all manifestations - from thin and in paint to ugly to metal. In this case, polishing by itself is pretty useless. - It is necessary to pre-prepare damaged areas for processing. Polishing can only retouch the repair of scratches. Narrow (thin), but relatively deep scratches can be hidden with a wax pencil. Wider ones - tint with paint from a repair bottle. Polish with color enriched polish. Apply protective polish.

Plastic bumpers and other elements exterior finish

The plastic of the exterior finish has a rough surface, which contributes to the settling of dirt and dust, on the other hand, it makes it difficult to wash these surfaces. Therefore, rather quickly, these elements become unkempt. Returning them to their original state is quite easy.

Plastic and rubber care products are intended for black surfaces. Remove impurities, create protective covering, which prevents dirt from “sticking” into the pores of plastic. You can make it easier and cheaper - bumpers and other plastic elements are washed, dried and wiped with a rag.

Chromed surfaces

Chrome cleaners quite easily wash off the terrible red spots and bring the chrome into a fine, mirror state. How to use - spread, wait 2-3 minutes, wipe with a clean cloth until dry. The tool is used very sparingly.

Cleaning of textiles in the cabin

In this case, we are talking about removing light dirt, since only professional dry cleaning at the station, cleaning with a washing vacuum cleaner or washing covers can save you from serious stains.

How to use: shake the bottle, spray the foam on the fabric, rub the foam into the surface with a brush or sponge. With a clean, dry cloth, wipe the surface with a little pressure, as if squeezing out the absorbed product. Let dry (30-40 minutes). This treatment refreshes textiles, removes a yellowish coating from tobacco smoke from ceilings, door trim, creates a protective coating that prevents the re-adherence of dirt. Removes static electricity.

Plastic, vinyl, rubber car box

The most common tool is dashboard polish. It is used to remove light dirt and give a “new” look to the elements of plastic trim. Adds shine to surfaces, deodorizes, removes static electricity. However, it is ineffective in the presence of more serious contaminants (oil, technical lubricants, old stains).

Mode of application: apply to the surface or piece of cloth, clean, wipe dry. In case of heavy soiling, pre-soak the stain. In combination, this tool removes dirt well from the engine and other elements of the engine compartment.

1. Washing. It is very important. If your car is washed poorly, with streaks, then sooner or later the paintwork will deteriorate, the car will stop shining and even after washing it will look sloppy. It is best to wash your car in the same place where you are known and hope for your next visit. Do not use automatic contact car washes, which can often be found at gas stations. Of course, it's very funny to sit in a car and watch how, right in front of your eyes, huge brushes rub the roof and doors of your car. But for paint it is very harmful. Sometimes there are even scratches. And the cleanliness of the car at such car washes is very conditional. There it is rather rinsed. And bird droppings are also very harmful to the paint. If some bird has marked your car, do not be too lazy to wipe it all off with at least a damp cloth.

2. Polishing. At the sink, they will definitely impose polishing or something with the prefix "nano" on you. Don't be fooled by these persuasions. That waxing is good. Hot wax is good in winter, cold wax is good in summer. It is advisable to wax the car 1-2 times a month. And polishing is actually a very specific procedure, and high-quality abrasive polishing costs from 6 thousand rubles. What they offer you for three or four thousand is a waste of money. There is no guarantee that after polishing the body will not have terrible stains. Poor polishing spoils the paint, and in the sun the car looks like a worn boot. Abrasive polishing is enough for about six months, but even here a lot depends on the skill of the polisher.

3. Vacuum cleaner and cabin filter. Don't forget to vacuum the interior. This is also done in the car wash. And so that there is always fresh air in the car, do not forget to change air filter salon. This is already done at a car service and is inexpensive.

4. Salon. If you have a leather interior, do not forget to use special leather care products. If you want your leather to shine like new, use sprays or wipes, which are also sold at auto shops and gas stations. If the interior is velor, it should be vacuumed regularly.

5. Rugs and thresholds. Many people forget that thresholds need to be washed. Dirty thresholds, of course, do not spoil the appearance of the car, but when you open the door, the car looks untidy. If the mats are rubber, they must be washed. If rag, then at the sink they should be knocked out and vacuumed.

6. Headlights and glass. Even if the street is dirty and dark, you should not rub the included headlights with wet wipes. Hot headlights can become cloudy over time. If possible, it is worth pouring water over them and slightly shaking off the water with a scraper, which is also sold at all gas stations and in all car dealerships. In winter, for lack of water, a small amount of pure snow is quite suitable. Here you can already slightly rub your hand.

7. Flavors and odor absorbers. Now the choice of flavors is simply huge, and you are free to choose any. But if suddenly something spilled in the car (for example, alcohol), then you already need to buy an odor absorber. The flavoring will not destroy the smell, but the absorber will. Odor absorbers are sold in specialized car dealerships. There you will be advised which absorber is better.

8. Order in the cabin. Many ladies arrange another living room in the car. Given the traffic jams, this is understandable and understandable. But don't mess with your car. It makes sense to carry with you only what you really need. And be sure to throw out the garbage - bags, coffee cups, yogurt bottles. You yourself will be much more pleasant to sit in a clean, tidy cabin, which smells of flowers or Christmas trees. Place food packages in such a way that nothing falls out of there and does not roll into an inaccessible place. And water bottles rolling around the cabin can in the very dangerous moment hit the brake pedal!

9. Smoking in the car. Ash creates a lot of trouble. In wet weather, it will certainly stick to the body if you shake it out the window. It also pours past the ashtray if you dump the ashes in the cabin. But the most unpleasant thing that can happen is the fall of an unextinguished cigarette cigarette on the seat or, even worse, on the floor. So in any case, do not smoke at high speed. Firstly, you can burn the entire interior, and secondly, it is simply dangerous. The greater the speed, the less time for maneuvers.

Psychologists have found that the interior space of a car is more important for women. Men appreciate the technical qualities of an iron friend, but especially his appearance. Perhaps it is for this reason that car care turns into a real ritual. At car washes, the owners vigilantly monitor all the actions of the staff and, if necessary, make their own adjustments. You can take good care of your car on your own: washing with your own hands will save both money and nerves.

The purity of the iron friend

Czech specialists car company Skoda Auto Studied Sustainability paintwork to influence of detergents, an ultraviolet, dirt and water. It turned out that ordinary dirt can significantly damage the paint. If, after a long trip, the car has not been washed, the dirt eats into the pores of the varnish and gradually corrodes it.

It has been established that car dirt consists of four layers:

1. A mixture of silicates and organic substances. Easily rinsed off with water.
2. A mixture of insects, soot, asphalt particles, greasy substances and exhaust gas residues. Washes off with shampoos.
3. The third layer consists of particles of damaged lacquer and oxidized residues of polishing agents.
4. This layer includes particles released from synthetic resins. The last two layers can only be removed chemically, as well as with the help of abrasive pastes.

You can maintain the integrity of the coating and the saturation of its color with the help of regular cleaning of the body. Unfortunately, sometimes owners can overdo it in their desire to wash the car in a quality manner. Improper care of the machine can damage the paint.

Common Mistakes

Improper care of the car body can cause scratches, rust and even mold in the cabin. Therefore, before proceeding with the procedure for removing dirt, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main mistakes and trying to avoid them:

State rooms, due to their location, are subject to heavy pollution. Despite this, you should not scrub them with special zeal. The paint on the numbers and letters will not withstand the powerful pressure of the cleaning agents, and the numbers will have to be changed.

body wash

Water is not able to clean dirty areas and completely wash away dirt and dust, so pouring water on the car and washing it off with a rag is ineffective. It is necessary to use a special car body care product, for example, car shampoo. In addition, you will need a special sponge, with a soft and grainy surface. The large pores of the sponge draw in grains of sand and are easily washed. Due to this, the body coating is not scratched.

You need to take care of the fiber towel in advance. It will help to completely remove the remaining moisture. Otherwise, the drops, like a lens, will concentrate sunlight. This will lead to spots on the body.

It is recommended to start cleaning the body by removing dirt from under the windshield. Then you can proceed directly to washing. Some car owners prefer to use a high pressure hose for this. Others claim it's bad for the coating and use a regular hose attached to a faucet. Separately, it is worth preparing a bucket with water and a special shampoo dissolved in it.

Moisten the body with plenty of water, then apply detergent with a sponge. Pay special attention to the most polluted places. Rinse the shampoo completely with water, wipe the surface dry with a fiber towel.

Discs, seals and windows

Like the body, you must first moisten. Wipe with a sponge dampened with shampoo. Nagar, which is formed due to work brake pads can be removed with a special cleaner. The product is sprayed onto rim. Leave for a few minutes. If necessary, additionally clean with a brush. Wash off with water.

Rubber seals can become brittle due to dirt, so they also need to be paid attention. The seals can be cleaned by wiping them with a damp cloth. Dried seals are recommended to be lubricated with Vaseline.

Simply wipe the glass with a damp cloth. In the event that they are significantly contaminated, ammonia and warm water will help. You can use a special glass cleaner.

Removing dirt from headlights

The dipped beam illuminates the road in front of the driver by 50-60 meters, and the distant one by almost 100. In addition, burning headlights at night are seen by drivers of oncoming cars at a distance of about two kilometers. If something goes wrong, they will have time to react.

Dirty headlights significantly affect visibility, which can be reduced by up to 95%. On the track, especially at high speeds, it will be impossible to see something, even a few meters ahead. It will also be impossible to react quickly to danger. Therefore: this will not only make the car more beautiful and well-groomed, but also save lives.

A standard wash, along with the bodywork, is usually sufficient. But in the summer, especially after a trip to nature, the grille and headlights are covered with insect corpses. If this mass hardens on hot headlights, it will be very difficult to get rid of it.

Glass cleaner and a rag can help with the problem if you clean the headlights as quickly as possible. If the dirt has hardened, it is recommended to use insect removers. Many drivers advise a tool that has been proven over the years - WD40 liquid.

Elimination of minor defects

A shallow scratch to the ground or a chip is not a serious threat to the coating. It is easily removed with a special pencil. Of course, the defect will not disappear completely, but it will become less noticeable.

Deeper scratches require the use of special polishes. They are:

• wax;
• abrasive.

Wax products are a temporary solution. After a few washes, the wax will be washed off and the scratches will reappear. Abrasive polish can permanently eliminate the defect. Unfortunately, along with a scratch, it also removes a small layer of varnish, which is not at all endless. If you use this tool often, the body will be covered with dull spots.

Salon care

Washing the body is not able to provide coziness and comfort inside the car. Taking care of your car's interior requires an equally responsible attitude. The process may seem simple, but it's not. Cleansing agents must be selected based on the specifics of the materials (synthetic, natural or artificial).

Interior cleaning begins with a vacuum cleaner. Particular attention is paid to the chairs. After vacuuming with a microfiber cloth. Additionally, a special cleaner should be used.

Upholstery update

Spots on the upholstery are not enough to wipe with a damp cloth. They will have to take it seriously and purchase cleansers that are applied in the form of thick foam. Preference must be given to quality products. Cheap products can leave streaks and stains.

Some stains need to be further treated - before using the cleaner. Dried blood will be easier to clean if you first put ice cubes on the stain. Contaminants from sweet juices or baby food are washed with clean water. Chocolate stains wet hot water. Only then can the foam cleaner be rubbed in.

The leather interior is cleaned with a damp sponge and a leather cleaner. After that, wipe off the remnants of the chemical with a soft and clean cloth. Then applied special oil or cream. It is left to soak for 30 minutes and the product is applied again.

High-quality cream does not allow the skin to stick to the body, while it makes it soft to the touch. It should be completely absorbed and not harden. Otherwise, a hard film is created that prevents the upholstery from stretching under the weight of a person. It will crack, then tear. A poor-quality cleaner will significantly reduce the life of the leather upholstery.

You should not abuse creams and cleaners. This may result in stains. The color enhancer is also a waste of money. The effect will be noticeable for no more than a week.

A quality leather care product can significantly renew upholstery. Salons Audi and Mercedes use the funds of the American company Meguiar's. The brand is over 100 years old. All this time, Meguiar's has been producing the best professional car chemicals. In recent years, the company has launched an amateur series, in which you can find products for cleaning leather, textiles, vinyl, rubber bands, bodywork, headlights and even tires.

Important cleaning tips

Insufficiently dried interior after cleaning and washing can cause rusting of metal parts and even the development of mold. In addition, in cold and damp weather, increased humidity in the cabin will cause the windows to fog up. This will significantly impair the driver's visibility and can cause an accident.

Drying the car will help get rid of the problem. In the warm season, the car is dried on the street, in the cold - in a heated garage. Previously, all rugs are removed from the passenger compartment, and doors and windows are left open. Additionally, you can use a hairdryer. Depending on the situation, drying may take several days.

It is important to properly care for the machine in order to prolong its service life. In addition, sooner or later the iron horse will have to be sold. A well-maintained car will have far fewer competitors in its class.

An article about how to and how not to care for a car body. Useful tips and valuable advice. At the end of the article - a video about car body care.

The content of the article, how not to care for a car body:

“If you want to wash well, do it yourself” - says a slightly paraphrased folk wisdom. Many motorists are in full solidarity with her and do not trust the car to car washes. They believe that cleanliness on their own is much more effective. And what a benefit - how much money you can save by learning to wield buckets and rags.

Some car enthusiasts generally consider the process of washing a car to be something akin to a Sunday walk in the fresh air, and they get incredible pleasure from it.

Are we doing everything right and where do the scratches on the body, mold in the cabin and rust in the recesses come from? Consider the TOP 10 most common body care mistakes.

1. A dry rag is the enemy of everything

Often in the life of drivers there is such a situation: an urgent need to wipe the headlights, glass or body surface from dirt, and only an ancient tortured dusty rag is lying in the trunk. Well, where to go - there is nothing else, you have to rub with what you have. They did it one, two, three ... And then, when washing, they suddenly noticed a lot of scratches. Where do they come from?

1. A dry rag contains a huge amount of small grains of sand. When a surface is rubbed, it mimics the action of fine sandpaper. Even if the fabric was originally clean, when it comes into contact with dirt and dust, it immediately acquires a grinding effect and severely scratches any surface.
2. Glasses with frequent dry wiping become cloudy, which spoils the visibility of the driver. Here the cause can be not only a rag, but also dust cleaning with dry wipers.
3. The plastic of the headlights also loses its transparency and does not allow the lights to shine at full strength.
4. Well, what's going on with the paint layer of the body, it's scary to imagine. The surface is covered with numerous scratches, the color fades and takes on a very “worn” look.

What can be advised:

• Never wipe car surfaces with dry cloths or sponges;
• If you urgently need to wash the glass or headlights, then wet the dusty surface, wait until the dirt gets wet, and only then gently wipe it with a damp cloth, napkin or wipers;
• The paintwork needs delicate cleaning, so it is better to wash it properly with plenty of water.

2. Not all rags are created equal.

At first glance, well, what's the difference than washing a car? There, in the garage, old leggings are lying around idle - cut them into pieces, and let them bring benefits. Yes, many people think so, and in vain:

1. Ordinary rags, sponges and towels can, of course, wash the car, but they are not designed for gentle cleaning due to their structure.
2. The mud layer on the surface of the car consists of microsands. Ordinary rags are unable to "absorb" dust granules. They just smear the stain on the car and scratch the coating.
3. For safe washing, special car sponges should be used, which have a very soft surface and a large grain size. Large pores draw in dirt and do not grind the paintwork and glass of the car. In addition, such a sponge is easily washed and does not accumulate grains of sand.
4. Before you start scrubbing the car, you need to knock off the main layer of dirt from it with water pressure. Only after that you can apply shampoo and use a sponge.
5. To prevent sand from the bucket from ending up again on the surface of the body, there is a special grate - a separator. This is a plastic mesh that separates the bottom of the bucket with accumulated dirt from the top with clean water.
6. It is best to dry the car body with a fiber towel. Only it must be either new or at least washed so as not to contain residues of dirt from the previous drying.

3. We rub it cleanly, or the disease of license plates

All motorists know how difficult it is to pick off front bumper corpses of stuck insects. And to wash their dried traces is so difficult that you can spend more than one hour.

State numbers are no exception, they are also subject to complex pollution. It's just not worth rubbing them with all your might. The fact is that black paint on numbers and letters is not always able to withstand the powerful pressure of a rag. Over time, it may completely disappear, and then you will have to duplicate the number.

Naturally, there can be no dry wiping here if you do not want to be left without state signs.

4. Household chemicals and car

On the Internet, you can find a bunch of tips on how to wash your car with dish detergent, clean the interior with carpet liquid, and in the same vein. The recommendations are mainly that these products launder better than special, automotive ones. Perhaps this is true, but, for example, toilet fluid also cleans great, only it would never occur to anyone to wash their hands with it instead of soap.

1. Household chemicals do sometimes do a better job of dealing with various contaminants, but the car coating is bad from it. Too aggressive reagents corrode the paintwork layer, can ruin the upholstery and melt the rubber inserts.
2. Autocosmetics is specially designed taking into account all the features of your car. It gently and carefully removes dirt without causing damage.
3. In any car shop, you can pick up the tools you need for your type of interior, body and plastic.
4. Using something from car cosmetics for the first time, be sure to test the effect of the product on a small inconspicuous area. If there are no unpleasant consequences, it can be applied on the entire surface.

5. Savings on care

Well, figured out that you need to use specialized auto cosmetics. But then you went to the store, where there are several products of different price categories. What will you choose - the cheapest?

1. The main goal of automotive chemistry is to cleanse old dirt and protect it from the appearance of new. And there are also compounds for leveling the coating from microcracks.
2. A quality product should do its job well and leave an inconspicuous layer on the surface so that dust does not stick.
3. Cheap products most often only imitate the effect of a protective film. Yes, and their composition is such that after application it turns into a sticky slurry, smeared throughout the cabin or body. There will be no benefit from such a departure, but the effect will be exactly the opposite of what was expected. Dust and dirt will cling to the plastered surfaces with a vengeance in the shortest possible time.

6. Old pollution

Every housewife knows that stains need to be washed and washed as early as possible, preventing them from eating into the material. The car in this case is no different:

1. The worst contaminants for a car are those that can damage the paintwork or other surfaces. They need to be washed off immediately. The list of dangerous includes stains from various juices, sodas and other oxidizing drinks.
2. Traces of insects and bird droppings can sometimes corrode any coating, and even paint - and even more so.
3. Bitumen also needs to be cleaned quickly, otherwise over time it is strongly absorbed into the pores of the surface and will bring a lot of trouble to those who want to wash it off.
4. Deep old stains of the interior can be difficult to remove even with dry cleaning. Therefore, do not delay with cleaning, but it is better to regularly keep the car in a neat condition.

7. Hot showers for cars are not a good idea.

Undoubtedly, washing a car with warm water is much more pleasant than cold. And the dirt gets wet and falls off faster. How does this affect the car?

From sharp uneven heating, the paintwork may crack and then partially move away. This is especially true in winter, when the temperature difference from frost to hot water is maximum.

If the floating liquid gets on the frozen glass, it can completely destroy it.
You need to wash the car with water at room temperature - then your hands will not be cold, and nothing will damage the car.

8. Dampness in the cabin

To make the inside of the car cozy, comfortable and safe for health, cleanliness alone is not enough. Just frequent washing can provoke unpleasant consequences if the interior is not dried enough:

• During wet cleaning, some of the water gets under the carpet. If the amount of liquid is small, then it will calmly evaporate by itself and will not cause any problems. But when it begins to squish underfoot, leaving everything as it is is fraught;
• Dampness that is not removed will cause mold, oxidation and rusting of exposed metal parts;
• In cool weather, all the windows will fog up from the inside and spoil the driver's view;
• If there is such a problem, you need to find an opportunity to dry the car. This is done either on the street in the warm season, or in a heated box - in the cold. You need to get all the rubber mats out of the car and leave it with open windows or doors. Sometimes with a large amount of liquid, the process can drag on for several days.

9. Chips and cracks

Did you notice a small chipped piece on the glass surface, and a couple of deep scratches on the body? Shake your head and leave it as it is? Then expect trouble soon:

• If the integrity of the glass is broken even by the smallest chip, then the probability is very high that the destruction will not stop there. It will crawl in all directions and turn into a beautiful but dangerous web of cracks that interfere with the driver's view;
• The paintwork protects the body from rust. If it is damaged, the place of the defect will soon corrode, and it will also hook on neighboring areas, under the enamel. Over time, the paint will swell and fall off, and the iron will be hopelessly destroyed;
• Do not pull with the elimination of the above defects. The sooner you contact the workshop, the less repairs you will need;
• To protect the body from cracks, it is worth using polishing. You can apply it in a car service or on your own, following the instructions.

10. Scrapers and brushes

Winter is coming, and cars will inevitably be covered with a layer of snow and ice. Almost everyone will have shovels, long brushes and special glass scrapers in the trunk. It is absolutely clear that it is impossible to move without these tools, but are they used correctly?

1. Hard bristles scratch the car body with strong pressure, so try to brush off only the top layer of snow without touching the car.
2. The scraper can only be used after the glass has warmed up and the ice begins to move away by itself, otherwise you are guaranteed scratches. Yes, and the effort applied to remove frost can cause the glass to crack and crumble.
3. The same applies to the work of janitors. Be patient until the ice melts, and only then turn it on.
4. No hot water! It is not necessary to warm the windows of the car and locks with floating liquid. A sudden change in temperature has a huge destructive effect.

Proper car care is the key to its long service life. If you follow the basic tips, you can take care of the cleanliness and condition of the machine yourself. One should not only forget that this should be done on specially designated sites equipped with drainage systems and cleaning systems. Someone needs to take care of nature too.

Video - helpful tips car body care:

The main task of the motorist after acquiring the model they like is to preserve the aesthetic and operational properties iron friend for a long period of time. Beauty and appearance, dynamics, handling, interior ergonomics - everything that the manufacturer came up with is subjected to daily tests in polluted atmosphere and adverse road conditions. Proper car care will help save you from shelling with stones on the highway and salt baths. The first enemy of external beauty - the body is corrosion.

The body is not only a demonstration of the perfection of design skills and the elegance of the model, but also a product made of sheet steel with a thickness of 0.60 - 0.80 mm with a large number of welds, gaps and overlaps. Such design features, which accompany the creation of automotive masterpieces, are a favorable environment for accumulation of dirt, moisture penetration and rust formation. The list of favorable conditions for the formation of corrosion:

• complex design solutions (hidden cavities, intricate designs, etc.);
• vibration and high voltages load-bearing bodies;
• the content of sulfur dioxide in the environment, which forms sulfuric acid when interacting with moisture;
• "brute force" in tuning and accessories (metal decorations, body kits, decorative details, etc.);
• natural wear of porous metal (microcracks).

Body pollution are multilayer combinations of dust, soot, gas, mineral oils, asphalt particles, lubricants. This unpleasant accompaniment of car operation is a well-studied risk area for the body and, according to experts, has its own structure:

1. upper layer- consists of a mixture of organic substances and silicates, which freely adhere to the structure;
2. second layer– residues of fatty substances, exhaust gases, insects, asphalt particles, soot;
3. third layer- these are the products of oxidation of paintwork particles, preservative and polishing substances;
4. fourth layer are free particles from synthetic resins and pigment particles.

To eliminate the second layer, it is enough to use car shampoos, for the 3rd-4th layers they are effective abrasive pastes or delete chemically.

Body wash: proven solutions

A mandatory event for car care in a dirty or wet road will be a “bath day”: washing the body with cold / warm water using car shampoos. Washing the body does not tolerate haste, so it is undesirable to speed up the process under running water, as well as to hastily wipe off dirt and dust with a rag without water. The only exception where the use of a pressure jet is justified is when washing the body, front / rear wheel arches and the bottom in winter from the salt that is sprinkled on the roads. The best option for washing the body consists of several stages:

• prepare cleaning solution(mix car shampoo with water);
• apply brushes or brushes, and not foam rubber sponges and rags that leave traces of grains of sand;
• moisten the body water;
• apply a detergent composition and at the same time moisten the surface with water;
• wash off the cleaning solution;
• wipe dry, wipe with a suede cloth;
• let dry, preserve.

Helpful advice: it is recommended to wash with car shampoo 2 times a month. Popular are TW and Hot Wax shampoos with polishing additives that give short-term protection and shine. Cleansing shampoos with paintwork will help you deal with stubborn tar and insect stains in a concentrated form, and for localized removal of dirt, The Treatment's waterless washes are the best option.

After washing Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to drops, since such traces of washing on a sunny day work like lenses: they collect the rays of the sun into a beam and leave marks. In addition, it is highly not recommended to wash the body after stopping the car or in the sun, as sudden temperature changes destroy the paintwork. Application detergent preservative to protect the coating, it is recommended, and it is advisable to distribute the process of cleaning the body with a brush into small areas and erase dirt in the direction of the roof - the bottom. For conservation, a wax water-repellent layer is often used, which will retain the gloss and original color of the paint.

For window cleaning it is enough to wipe the surface with a clean cloth, and in case of significant contamination, warm water and ammonia or alcohol are used as a “home recipe”, and a special glass cleaner as a professional care product. When caring for windows, do not forget about the windshield wiper blades and perform a comprehensive cleaning.

Polishing: the secrets of automotive beauty

Automotive beauty and primordial brilliance is the pride of the owner of the iron horse, an effective image tool and an indicator of the car enthusiast's concern for the car. Shine can be given with the help of a whole arsenal of tools or you can choose professional polishing: Teflon, wax, restorative, three- and two-component, abrasive. The entire range of means for imparting beauty and protective properties to the body is classified into protective and abrasive (restoring).

Protective It is recommended to carry out 2 times a year in the off-season winter-summer. It does not use abrasive materials, but the polishing material is absorbed with the existing paintwork and creates an additional layer. Such polishing will protect the body from the adverse effects of the environment. Protective polishes can be with the addition of urethane, Teflon, synthetic substances that will protect the body for up to 3 months, as well as Polyglycoat preparations with body protection up to 4 years.

To restore automotive beauty after eliminating defects, abrasive or restorative polishing. For abrasive polishing scratches, oxidized seals, and other defects must first be removed. Since several microns are removed in the process of restoring automotive beauty - the thinnest layer of paintwork, it is not recommended to perform abrasive work too often and without the need. After cleaning, special materials and equipment are used, which simultaneously with polishing restore the surface and give protective properties: anti-corrosion protection, repelling moisture, dirt, etc.

Abrasive polishes contain particles that peel off the top layer and smooth out minor scratches. The "thinness" of the layer depends on the type of polish: coarse grain - Hi Tech Rubbing Compound, gentle - Color Back, and for "pearl" and "metallic" - only Metallic Finnish Restorer.

Rust: effective ways to fight

The main way to deal with rust is the maintenance of a car clean and regular sanitary treatment . If the body is damaged by corrosion, it is worth considering that it is impossible to completely eliminate rust, but every motorist can stop the destruction and protect the body. Effective method- body protection PVC plastisol , which will protect the factory coating from sand, salt, gravel and temperature changes for 23 years. For anti-corrosion protection, it is necessary to prepare a wooden scraper, brush, emery cloth, metal brush, white spirit, rags, anti-corrosion mastic and rust converter and sequentially perform several stages of work:

• prepare the surface(to clear of the destroyed covering, dirt, fats) ;
• rinse with a stream of water and remove peeling with a scraper and a metal brush;
• clean the formation and loose rust with a metal brush;
• degrease the surface with white spirit;
• treat the surface with a rust converter;
• apply anti-corrosion materials.

Helpful Tip: After treatment with a rust converter, the reddish coating will take on a grayish tint of a stable compound that does not harm the car. Processing with anti-corrosion materials is carried out by hand (in a mitten), a spatula or a brush, depending on the viscosity. The only condition for an effective fight is the absence of bare spots.

Bituminous mastics are recognized as a technological material that effectively resists salt, moisture, but is not resistant to gravel and sand. Such a coating will become brittle at low temperatures and may crumble on impact with a stone. Bitumen-based mastics can be filled with artificial fibers or rubber-rubber fractions. Application wax formulations effective for short-term protection of wings and underbody. Such materials will fill cracks, pores, pockets, flanging, penetrate well inside, but are not resistant to force loads and shocks. A popular invention of original auto chemists is the application of a wax composition over bituminous, which will ensure less brittleness of the coating at low temperatures.

Recognized as an effective way of fighting ML method , which allows you to control the processes of wear and aging. To protect hidden planes, Movil has been successfully used, which can be applied to corroded and oil-covered surfaces. Among modern materials, which have good penetrating power, a method is distinguished Rust stop : liquid penetrates through layers of rust, old bituminous coatings or wax to healthy metal. The drug reacts with the base and forms a protective and preservative layer. Among the effective anti-corrosion coatings are epoxy rubber mastics which have increased strength. A feature of their use is the limitation of the hardener in the preparation of a protective composition so that the coating is elastic.

Chrome plating, chips, scratches: processing features

The weak point of the spectacular chrome plating is porosity, so decorative details differ in care technology:

• dirt cleaning(washing) ;
• removal of tarnish and corrosion;
• wipe dry;
• treat with an auto cleaner;
• cover with a protective layer of varnish.

Helpful advice: When processing chrome-plated parts, it is necessary to exclude the use of a dry rag, since a thin layer (90 µm) of nickel, copper, chromium is intensively destroyed and scratched. It is recommended to use an auto cleaner once a year, and when coating with grease, it is necessary to treat the back of the parts.

In order to detect damage to the outer surface of the body, it is enough to inspect the outer panels and remove paint blisters. chipped and cracks it is necessary to clean and pay special attention to those places where the paint has changed shade. To perform body tinting, you must:

• clean the damage down to the metal;
• clean defects, pickle and degrease;
• cover the metal;
• pick up paint and tint primed places;
• let dry, polish.

Closed cavities must be opened, rinsed with water, cleaned holes and blown compressed air. When performing work in the summer, you can replace blowing with drying for 12 days. The last stage is the treatment with a liquid preservative using a spray gun.

Upholstery: an overview of the "risk areas"

The presence of a cover is perceived by many motorists as reliable protection against dirt and dust. However, interior textiles are synthetic materials for upholstery of doors, seats, instrument panels, ceilings, which lose elasticity during operation, age and fade. It is difficult to deal with such a phenomenon, but with oil or other contaminants and dirt, which contributes to destruction and aging, you can do it yourself.

"Home Recipes" - this is the removal of stains with a wet cloth from leather interior or plastic trim. With velor, the removal process is more complicated: vacuum, remove stains with a napkin soaked in acetone. Clean gasoline is used to remove oil and grease stains. If minor contamination can be removed with ordinary soapy water, then serious ones will require dry cleaning and the use of professional auto cosmetics.

High-quality upholstery care consists in the use of professional car cosmetics. Depending on the material, you need to choose best option: For leather use Formula Superprotectaut and for vinyl, plastic and rubber use Trim Clean Cockpit Shine. To remove problematic stains and create a protective layer on fabric surfaces, you can choose Renew - Upholstery Cleaner. General rules The use of stain removers on fabric upholstery will be pre-treated with a vacuum cleaner, and stubborn dirt is effectively removed with dry foam.

Helpful Hint: When cleaning fabric upholstery it is recommended to avoid applying cleaning agents directly to the material to avoid residual dirt marks on the edges. Processing needs to be done in a circular motion in the direction from outside to inside.