V expensive cars good sound insulation was taken care of at the factory at the design stages. However, with inexpensive brands, the situation is often different. Noise isolation, which is installed in them, is not always able to get rid of unnecessary sounds. Protection is either completely absent, or minimal work has been done on it, respectively, comfort when driving on such vehicles is reduced to zero. The noise of the external environment, annoying the driver, pushes him to make soundproofing on his own.

Vibration isolation material

The first and main raw material of sound insulation. It is produced in plates of certain sizes. Vibration isolators are bituminous, mastic or bitumen-mastic, with or without foil in the composition. The thickness is chosen based on the completeness of the car body.

Vibration isolation material Bimast Bomb

• Combined and bituminous slabs require heating during installation - efficiency from this isolation will become better. This type of vibration isolator is applied to places loaded with vibration - front and rear wheel arches, underbody, engine compartment, while the places of application must be well cleaned of dirt and dust.
• Mastic based materials , on the contrary, do not require heating before their application. They are laid in place inside the car: the floor of the trunk, under the rear seats, roof, hood and on the car door.
• Vibration isolators, which includes foil , the most convenient when in operation.

Heat and sound insulating material

Self-adhesive foam material. Handles not only extraneous noise, but also insulates the interior.

Heat and sound insulating material Splen

• During operation, it is usually glued over vibration isolator .
• Does not require preheating.
• Heat and sound insulating materials include: Splen, Flex, Barrier.

The advantage of heat and sound insulation is that it does not absorb moisture, but the glue is not resistant to water, so the places for its application are limited.

soundproofing material

The heaviest and most efficient material, absorbing up to 95% of noise, and featuring an open cell structure.

Soundproofing material Isoflex

The most common models: Isoflex, Bitoplast and Accent.

NoiseBlock models are available, which are self-adhesive and applied as a third layer on low density foamed soundproofing material (eg Splen or Barrier). Part of the noise that still passes through the soundproofing layers is reflected from the NoiseBlock and muffled. Thus, maximum efficiency is achieved.

Anti-creak material (anti-creak)

Self-adhesive material made of fabric, which is glued to the places where the parts of the machine come into contact. Thus, the parts in the process of work do not create mutual friction, and, accordingly, do not creak.

Anti-skrip for the car. Also available in ribbon form.

• Effectively eliminates squeaks, beats, sounds.
• During the application of soundproofing, heating is not required.
• Minus antiskripa in a relatively meager assortment.

Good demand among buyers are: Madeleine and Biplast.

Liquid soundproofing material

This is a modern way to isolate a car. It is, in fact, liquid rubber with a complex of additives. It is used for external noise protection and for anti-corrosion treatment of the body.

Liquid noise insulation for a car and method of its application

• Liquid insulation does not absorb moisture. In other words, her can be used in places where the car comes into direct contact with water (for example, on the bottom or wheel arches).
• Liquid mastic is resistant to reagents and mechanical stress.
• Before application, the surface must be cleaned of dirt and degreased. Liquid mastic must be applied to the cleaned metal. Some types can be applied without first treating the car with a primer.
• It is applied in two ways: aerosol coating and painting (brush or roller). If isolation is required outside spray will be the optimal solution.
• Unlike other materials, liquid noise insulation does not increase the weight of the car, and absorbs noise well.
• The price is high, but the service life is not small - 5 years.

During the purchase of products, be sure to ask about the documents on quality assurance and compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. These documents prove high quality and harm to health.

car soundproofing price

Noise protection is now offered in many places: in private garages or in official car dealerships. Some eliminate the noise on their own. This also depends on the cost.

When deciding to make soundproofing with your own hands, you can use a ready-made kit. It consists of a certain set of materials, a scheme vehicle, which shows the places where it is worth gluing the kit.

average price ready-made kits on model:

• Class B - from 11,000 to 21,000;
• Class C - from 11,000 to 21,000;
• Class D - from 14,000 to 27,000;
• Crossovers - from 15,000 to 26,000.

The average price for soundproofing the doors and interior of a passenger car with your own hands without the use of special kits will cost 6,000 - 8,000 rubles.

Professional services will cost significantly more. The price depends on the quality of raw materials, rent (if the premises are rented) and payment to employees. The average cost of soundproofing an entire middle-class car in all regions is approximately 30,000 to 40,000 rubles.

Usually the first thing they do is soundproof the doors. Drivers who have installed insulation note a noticeable damping of the sounds of the external environment and high-quality sound of music. Work should be carried out in rooms where the temperature is more than + 15 °. In cold weather, at the beginning of work, it is worth opening all the doors and letting the car warm up in the warmth.

Attention!

Do not disassemble cold plastic - this will lead to its breakage.

Before isolation, prepare the following tools:

• Screwdrivers;
• Stitching roller;
• Blades for engaging clips and sheathing;
• Knife for cutting metal;
• Clean rags;
• Degreaser;
• Building hair dryer.

To begin with, we remove the door trim from the door and remove the film from moisture (often this is regular polyethylene). After we clean and degrease the door.

Before carrying out work on soundproofing car doors, it is necessary to remove the entire trim

It is better to start work with a door shield. It is important to pay attention to the old vibration isolation - if there is damage or deformation, it should be thrown away. We also remove the factory anti-corrosion coating.

Ways to install soundproofing on car doors

Now let's deal with the vibration isolation of the doors. It is not necessary to stick soundproofing on the entire door, the main thing is to paste over a large number of sections.

To achieve maximum sound insulation quality, it is enough to cover 70-80% of the surface

Door stiffeners do not need to be glued. It will not get worse, and the material will be wasted.

2 mm of vibration isolation is enough for the door, since the thickness of the door metal is small. To make the material last for a long time, if possible, smooth it with a roller. If indoors low temperature, vibration isolation should first be warmed up with a building hair dryer to + 17 °.

We install soundproofing on vibration isolation. The insulation is self-adhesive, but it is still worth ironing after installation. You do not need to pay attention to the fact that it will not be possible to glue a solid sheet of sound insulation, it is almost impossible to install it there whole. The main task is to do everything neatly and cover all open surfaces.

Applying soundproofing to the inside of the door

Then again we work with vibration isolation. In order to have a good effect, technological holes should be closed. Ultimately, the surface of the door should look like closed areas.

The third step is anti-creak processing. Wrap wires and rods with 5 mm anti-creak. Places of skin borders, removable plastic parts and clips are treated with material.

An example of anti-creak door treatment

For an additional effect, vibration isolation can be partially installed on the door skin, and completely glued on top of it with a sound absorber. The difference between them is that the vibration isolator has the ability to retain heat in the cabin, and the sound absorber dissipates sounds. This action will improve music playback and greatly reduce driving noise.

On this we finish the soundproofing of the doors and mount them in their original state.

You can also watch a video on this topic:

Wheel arches are the main and strongest source of sound while driving. While driving, stones, sand, gravel fly off from under the wheels, which hit the wheel arches, causing a rumble. With a quality approach to work, noise can be reduced by 30% - 50%.

The noise level depends on the body type. In sedans, the arches are at the same height as the hood, and the rear arches are at the same height as the trunk. If at the factory for such a car noise reduction was provided in the luggage compartment and for the rear wall of the engine compartment, then in this case the extraneous sound from the arches is muffled.

External and internal insulation of wheel arches

The hatchback situation is a little more complicated. Regardless of how well the front end of the car is, rear arches installed at saloon level. That is why the noise inside the cabin becomes higher. There are two ways to solve the situation - turn to professionals or install sound insulation yourself.

Required tools:

• Roulette;
• Construction knife;
• Scissors;
• Textile;
• Building hair dryer;
• roller.

Before purchasing raw materials, you should decide on the territory for installing the sound absorber. The level of insulation depends on the thickness of the material. If too thick sound insulation is used, mounting difficulties may occur. attachments, the distance between the wheel and the arch will decrease, which will lead to friction and, accordingly, additional noise. To do everything right, choose a material with a thickness of 3 mm to 5 mm.

Soundproofing wheel arches from the inside

To begin with, we remove all parts of the car that may interfere with work. For example, the internal soundproofing of the front arches provides for operation from the engine compartment. No need to remove the engine or other complex parts, but it's worth a little "clear your way."

Wheel arches can be soundproofed from the inside

We clean the arch from dirt, wash it and dry it with a hairdryer. After that, we cut out the desired area (it is desirable to achieve 100% coverage) from the vibration isolation material. We apply self-adhesive insulation to the arches. When using materials based on bitumen, warming up with a hairdryer is required after gluing.

You should not rush, sticking vibration isolation to all places. It is worth starting from one corner, gradually smoothing the material with a roller. At the end of the work, you need to smooth everything again.

During the process, it is important to make sure that there is no free space left under the sheets. Subsequently, due to incomplete coverage, rust may occur.

Application of self-adhesive vibration isolation on the wheel arches from the inside

After installing the vibration isolation with the second layer, we glue the noise isolation (for example, Accent). The process is the same as described above.

Applying soundproofing to the wheel arches from the inside

Soundproofing wheel arches outside

Before starting, we remove the wheel and wheel arch liners, clean the surface of dirt. If metal corrosion is detected, we clean it. We glue on a clean surface of the arch vibration isolation, which includes bitumen. After that, soundproofing can be applied over the first layer. For best result we apply mastic material on a rubber-bitumen base to the joints, and at the end we process the entire area with mastic (or anti-gravel).

After the whole operation, we return the wheel to its place and covered it.

Noise protection of the arch is completed.

Floor insulation will bring good result in noise reduction, because most of the sounds are transmitted through it to the car interior.

The following tools are required for work:

• Scissors for metal;
• Construction roller;
• Net cloth;
• Screwdrivers;
• Degreaser.

Before work, we remove all the seats, rugs and upholstery - the interior should remain completely empty. It is important to look at the factory felt sound insulation. It should not smell bad, peel off or crumble, but must be completely dry. Otherwise, it should be removed. Next, the entire floor is vacuumed, degreased and covered with anticorrosive.

The first is vibration isolation. Pasting from the motor partition, we lay the material all over the floor in whole sheets. We finish at the lift under the rear seats. We warm the surface with a hairdryer and roll it with a roller. Similarly, we glue the vibration isolation under rear seats.

Vibration isolation car flooring

Do not glue the wiring and technical openings.

Attention!

Overlapping can create air between the material and the floor, which can lead to corrosion.

It is necessary to try as best as possible to glue the places of the front arches under the factory soundproofing and at the same time not touch the gas tank hatches. After everything is carefully rolled with a roller.

The second layer is glued soundproofing. We glue from the engine bulkhead to the rise of the rear seats. Using a roller, squeeze the air out from under the fabric. After that, in the same way, we process the area under the rear seats and the gas tank hatches and again iron everything with a roller.

Car floor soundproofing

After all the work, we return all the interior parts to their place. Noise isolation of the floor in the car is over.

For many motorists, it is very important to maintain relative silence in their car, creating a certain comfort for themselves. However, not every vehicle can have a satisfactory level of absorption of external sounds. In this article, we will talk about how to do the soundproofing of car doors with your own hands in several stages and how to reduce the vibration of all elements in the door frame.

To ensure a high level of sound insulation in any car, it is the doors that should be affected. This part usually has small gaps or holes that appeared due to the loss of elasticity of the seals or were made during production. The door is one of the most important elements, which is responsible for the level of absorption of external sounds.
Noise isolation of car doors begins with the disassembly of this part.

If the work is done correctly, it is possible to reduce the degree of noise in the car interior by 25-30%. It should be noted that the implementation of soundproofing on the door elements will significantly reduce the frequency of vibration and rattling, as well as improve the sound of music in the cabin.

The work process begins with the fact that it will be necessary to disassemble the outer lining of the door itself. It has a lot of different screws, screws and other fasteners that need to be unscrewed. It is advisable to lay out each type of part in separate boxes, and at the same time make notes on a piece of paper which of the fasteners is suitable for certain holes.

This item is very important, since you will definitely need to reassemble the structure. Therefore, it is very important to do everything correctly in reverse order so that each fastening element is put in its place.

Remember that during the disassembly of the door, it is not necessary to dismantle the power windows and other mechanisms that are responsible for opening and closing this part. In the further process of installing sound insulation, these elements will not interfere, and when assembling everything into one structure, this may take more time than necessary.

After removing the outer cladding and panels, you will need to proceed with the removal of the factory soundproofing from the doors. You do not have to worry about rough work, but it is advisable to do it carefully and with the help of additional tools so as not to damage the top layer of paint from the body. If it is accidentally damaged, then over time the metal in this area will begin to corrode.

After removing the factory soundproofing material, carefully remove the remaining adhesive, and all small particles from the seal. After completing the work, it is necessary to degrease the surface. To do this, you can use chemicals, carefully wiping the surface, or alcohol.

First steps for soundproofing

Noise insulation of car doors can be continued after degreasing the surface. This will improve adhesion to the soundproofing material.

Pasting with soundproofing material must be started from the outside.

When pasting this part, it is best to select vibration-proof materials. It is necessary to cover them with the maximum available surface. This is not very easy to do, but the result will please you. Be sure to use all available openings and openings. To increase the level of sound insulation and vibration, it is not recommended to make the vehicle doors heavier.

It is correct for this purpose to select material with a minimum weight. It is also recommended to choose a product that will withstand temperature changes and mechanical stress well.

After fixing the internal soundproofing material, a sound-absorbing material will follow. The process will be exactly the same as the previous one.

However, you should pay attention to one nuance - the door insulation does not have good protection from moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right coating, which has the highest resistance to moisture. The less moisture accumulates, the less corrosion processes will take place.

If you have a question, what kind of sound insulation to use for work, we recommend choosing modern models. In modern samples preserved optimal balance all necessary material requirements.

Since working in a narrow space is very problematic, there is a chance of injuring your hands on sharp edges. We recommend wearing gloves for this.

Video “Do-it-yourself soundproofing car doors”

Video instructions for soundproofing car doors from the manufacturer of soundproofing materials SHUMOFF.

Vibration isolation of all door openings

After completing the external insulation, you can proceed to the internal (closer to the cabin).
To do this, you can close up all the technical holes and crotches with a special dense and durable material. It usually improves the sound quality of speakers and amplifiers. You can also do waterproofing.

The holes can be filled with fiberglass or aluminum cladding. The plugs will need to be pasted over with a special material - a vibration damper. After completing this stage, be sure to check whether the door will close and open without obstacles. The last stage is the installation of vibration isolation material on the inner surface of the vehicle door.

When increasing the weight of a car door, be aware that the door hinges will carry more load than was originally designed during manufacture. Here you can set priorities - high-quality sound of music in the cabin or long-term operation of door elements.

If the quality of the music suits you, then vibration reduction is very simple. To begin with, all holes and openings are completely closed with a waterproofing film, and then you need to paste with vibration isolation.

soundproofing door trim

The instructions for soundproofing the skin on the car doors are very simple. After you have managed to choose the right material for the job, it should be installed over the entire plane. Some motorists install the material only under the joints between the plastic and the skin.

Since the main creaks and knocks are associated with the skin, the following actions will be the most optimal solution. First of all, glue all planes that should be joined with the door with vibration damping strips. On the reverse side of the skin, it will be necessary to glue the soundproofing material with one solid sheet.

The sheet must be bigger size than the glued surface. For him, you can make an allowance of a few centimeters, as this will facilitate the work. Trimming can be done later with scissors or a sharp knife.

After carrying out all the stages of work described above, the doors can be finally assembled and installed. This is how the correct soundproofing of the doors in the car looks like.

Video “Instructions for soundproofing car doors”

Detailed description of the standard sound insulation of car doors. Pointing out the places to pay attention to.

The car contributes to increased comfort, since this insulation prevents the penetration of noise from the outside into the cabin. It will not be possible to completely protect the car from sound, but sound insulation can drown out a small and medium-sized sound.

Soundproofing treatment of any car is reduced to the application of sound-absorbing layers on certain parts of the car body. Such processing can be conditionally divided into three zones - the front of the car, the interior, the rear.

Processing the front of the machine is reduced to soundproofing engine compartment and front wheel arches. At the rear, sound insulation is applied to the walls, floor and trunk lid with inside.

Most exposed to soundproofing. In it, insulating layers are applied to the floor, the wall adjacent to engine compartment, ceiling and doors. If auto-made in a hatchback-type body, then the soundproofing treatment of the interior is combined with the treatment of the rear.

Why soundproof car doors?

It is worth noting that automakers do not always pay attention to decent sound insulation, or simply save on it. And if a fairly high-quality material with good sound-absorbing properties can be laid on the floor, then the processing on the car doors is often very weak, although the sound penetrates through them very well.

Soundproofing car doors with your own hands is a completely doable operation if you know the sequence of actions and choose the right materials.

With soundproof doors, the music inside the car becomes much better

One of the main factors that affect the complexity of the work is the presence or absence of elements in the doors. If there are no speakers, then it will be easier to process the door, and less material will be spent.

The presence of speakers in the doors will somewhat complicate the work, however, the end result of the soundproofing of the doors will lead to an improvement in sound.

Methods for soundproofing car doors

It should be noted that do-it-yourself soundproofing doors will lead to another positive factor - by increasing the mass of the door due to the applied layers, they will close easier and quieter. But here it is important not to overdo it. A large number of soundproofing layers can lead to an excessive increase in mass, due to which the doors may sag or come off completely.

Necessary materials

Not so much is required to complete the work:

Preparatory work

Next, consider the sequence of actions. The first step is to remove the door card. This must be done carefully so as not to damage it, as well as its fastening elements. If there are lifting handles, they must be removed from the shaft, the door opening handle can not be touched.

If the door has factory sound insulation, it will need to be removed from the door, and the speaker, if any, will also need to be dismantled.

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove from the car door all elements that may interfere with the installation of sound insulation

Any car door consists of two walls - the inner, which is closer to the cabin, and the outer. Often, automakers apply to the outer wall anti-corrosion treatment, which will also have to be removed, for which you can use white spirit and rags. At the same time, the anti-corrosion treatment must be removed carefully so as not to damage the walls. After removing the treatment, the door will need to be dried well.

This completes the preparatory work and you can start gluing the insulating layers.

Soundproofing car door frame

If a speaker is mounted on the outer wall in the door, a circle of anti-creak material can be glued in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bit location, this will have a positive effect on the sound in the future. But it is not worth gluing the entire surface of the outer wall with this material, since it absorbs moisture well, which can lead to corrosion.

Video: Noise-vibration insulation of a car - part 1 - "Doors"

Next, we move on to the inner wall. On this wall, you also need to stick a layer of vibration isolation. Moreover, it will need to be glued on both sides. On the inside, the one closer to the outer wall, pieces of vibration isolation are glued to all accessible surfaces, but it is important to ensure that in the future they do not interfere with the operation of the door opening mechanism and raising the windows. After the sticker, it is better to immediately check their performance, if necessary, you can lubricate these mechanisms.

The door needs to be glued on the inside.

After processing the inner side of the wall, you can start pasting the outer one, the one that goes to the cabin. This side can be pasted over, along with technological holes. After gluing, you will need to cut holes for the speaker, handles for opening the door and lifting the windows, and also, if necessary, carry out all the necessary wiring.

Soundproofing the outer side of the door

Then a soundproofing layer is glued onto the applied vibration isolation layer. It should cover the surface of the vibration isolation layer, after which the necessary holes should be cut out in this layer as well. At this stage, you will need to once again check the performance of all door mechanisms, as well as install a speaker if it is attached to the door wall, and not to the card. After sticking the soundproofing layer, an almost closed space is formed inside the door between the walls, which will significantly improve the sound of the speaker system.

Video: Instructions for soundproofing car doors

Further work is done with the door card itself. It will first need to be glued on a vibration-proof material, cut into thin rags. It is better to do this along the contour, and also stick several stripes on the inside of the card. If it consists of two parts, you need to glue them both. Applying stripes of this layer will prevent the card from vibrating.

Then the entire surface of the card is pasted over with anti-creak material, with a small margin at the edges. After that, you can attach the card to the door. But before that, it is better to replace all fasteners with new ones, and also use self-tapping screws, but only in places where they will not be noticeable. This should be done because the old elements may not withstand the load and the card will move away from the door.

After fastening the card, the protruding parts of the anti-squeak material must be cut off. Since the trimming is done after the card is attached, this material will work for its intended purpose, that is, it will not allow the card to touch and creak against the door.

Next, you can check the fastening of all external elements located on the map and, if necessary, glue them. On this, all the work of soundproofing the door is over. Soundproofing work with the rest of the car doors is carried out identically.

Unfortunately, the installation of AutoSound requires its own approach to soundproofing doors. The standard generally accepted sound insulation will not work here. principles in the approach and requirements are completely different. Today we will have not only a theory on soundproofing front doors for installing car audio, but also small photos of practical examples. I will try to tell you not only the theory of how to properly prepare a car door, but also how to practically apply our theory in practice. Let's first talk about what conditions we need to meet in order for our car midbass to play in the door with maximum efficiency.

First, the speaker must be firmly and firmly fixed in the door.

If it dangles, then our speaker will lose a lot of sound quality and we will get extra rattles and so on.

The second point is that the speaker must have a fairly free passage of sound in front of it. That is, if we have a certain grid, regular, then it should be enlightened, so that nothing would interfere with our dynamics from playing, and so that it would expel both air and reproduce sound without loss, while air does not fell under the skin, so that our skin, again, would not rattle once again.

Also, it is important to take into account under what conditions the speaker plays backwards (inside the door). If the speaker is installed in some kind of podium or in a number of spacer rings, then they should expand from the speaker back. This will allow the air behind the speaker to pass unhindered into our door volume.

An important point will also be the volume the speaker plays. At home, our loudspeakers play on some volumes that are quite small compared to car ones. In a car, this is a certain volume, on average, from 30 to 50 liters, depending on the car, while this volume is not airtight, it has a number of drain holes from the bottom, it also has other holes for air to escape, in case the speaker will actively work on the bass and actively compress-unclench the air that is in the doors.

But the key point is in the preparation of the doors, as for the volume on which the speaker works - it’s not even the volume itself, but how hard this volume is, how much the walls of our actual cabinet for the speaker, which we build from a door or case, will be rigid and how they will provide dynamics, high returns, especially in the low-frequency path.

So, in order for the speaker to play well in the door, we need to provide free air movement in front of the speaker, free air movement behind the speaker, ensure the rigidity of the fastener of the speaker itself and the rigidity of the volume that the speaker plays on. Of course, there is such a factor as turning the speaker, and sometimes turning the speaker can play both a plus and a minus, but this will be a separate issue.

Now, let's try to put our theory into practice. And I will give you an example of the usual noise-vibration isolation of a door, with which 95% of cars usually drive. And I will also tell you why it is not optimal, not correct and not suitable.

Suppose we have a certain door, standard. Our car door is divided into 3 parts:
1. this is the outer part, the outer part of the metal
2. Middle piece of metal or mounting plate.
3. Sheathing.

The speaker must be installed so that it plays volume between the outer part of the door and the middle. That is, in the box that we are building, on which the speaker plays, this is the volume that we will get between the outer part of the door and the middle part of the door (or the mounting panel

If we take the average door, then usually how it is done:

If we take an average door, then usually how it is done: a certain layer of vibration isolation of 2-3 mm is glued onto the outer part of the metal. After that, a certain noise-canceling material such as splen is glued onto this layer of vibration isolation. Further, a certain layer of vibration isolation is also glued on the middle part of the door, then a noise-reducing material or some kind of porous material such as foam on an adhesive basis is glued onto the skin of the door.

The speaker is installed on a primitive spacer or directly screwed to the door and the casing is put in place without changing the grille itself.

So, as for the outer part of the door - in standard version this is a layer of conventional vibration isolation and a layer of noise-absorbing material. By and large, this design of the outer part of the door is wrong. Vibration isolation is ordinary, which we pasted on the outer part of the door - it is not enough to get sufficient rigidity from the door. At a good temperature outside in the sun, this vibration isolation will become soft and it will lose its properties, especially in terms of rigidity. Therefore, in order to work with the car and make the correct preparation of the doors, it is advisable to use vibration isolation, which requires heating with a technical hair dryer before rolling it out. Many brands have such vibration isolation - almost all manufacturers that are on the market. domestic market. It costs a little more, but the difference in price is quite insignificant. And to spend a little money to get a full return on your musical system - in my opinion this is not a big waste.

A well-prepared outer part of the door will keep your car quiet from the outside as well.
That is, listening to music loudly, it will be heard much less "outside".
Many are afraid that the door, with an abundant amount of vibration isolation, will sag.
In my practice, I have not seen this. And even if we imagine that this will happen, then the loops are simply pulled up.

In fact, we have to apply vibration isolation on the outer part of the door, which requires heating, it can even be done in 2 layers.

First of all, to understand how many layers you need, you need to pay attention to how loud you listen to the system and the louder, the more carefully you need to approach the preparation of the doors. And the second point is the impossibly thin outer metal in the car. The more modern the car, the more its metal resembles foil.

Therefore, for the treatment of such surfaces, it is better to do not with one layer of vibration isolation, but with two layers. Vibration isolation should be taken with a thickness of 4 to 5 mm. After you have processed the door with some kind of rigid vibration isolation, which will allow our sandwich of metal and vibration isolation to remain rigid even with strong heating in the sun, while ensuring the maximum return of the midbass - you will get the maximum return from the speaker and its correct operation.

Many people will try to stick a soft noise-canceling material on top of this vibration isolation - I do not recommend doing this. Such material degrades the performance of the speaker. In any case, this is extra work, extra expenses, and most importantly, it will not bring any benefit and even cause harm.

If you have already made some kind of vibration isolation in the car, for example, with a layer of conventional vibration isolation that does not require
heating and you need to finish the door, then you just need to stick more
rigid vibration isolation. In fact, to make 2 layers in this way, and the fact that one of these layers will be soft enough when heated is not the most critical factor. The second layer will correct this flaw. And this is more than enough for a very powerful low-playing midbass.

Very often there are cases when people, in addition to vibration isolation, stick additional aluminum profiles on the outer part of the door in order to stiffen the door. In my opinion, 2 layers of rigid vibration isolation make the door so concrete that, of course, these manipulations will not cause harm, but there will be no significant benefit or return from them, therefore, this is at your discretion, but in my opinion it is superfluous .

As for the middle part of the door, or, in other words, the mounting panel, it can be divided into 3 types:

This is our classic mid-section, which contains a hole for the speaker, and also contains some technological holes on its surface.

The second type is when this door has a second hole for the speaker, and the rest is solid, without any holes.

And the third type is when there is simply no middle part of the door, but in fact a sheathing is put on its outer part.

As for the third option, it is the most deplorable, since there are no options to make a competent high-quality sound or you will have to make many compromises. You can try to make the middle part of the door out of a sheet of some metal or fiberglass, that is, in fact, re-make a new door design, which is a very laborious process and it is quite possible that on many cars this simply cannot be done physically.

Or the second option is to try as much and hard as possible to vibrate our skin so that it is as heavy and rigid as possible.

In any case, this version of the car audio door is not the most successful. If we are talking about the middle part of the door, which has a hole for the speaker, and the rest of the surface is solid or there are practically no holes, then in terms of the sound quality that we can achieve, this is the best option.

In order to prepare such a mounting panel, it is enough just to have some kind of vibration isolation, preferably rigid again, so that the middle part of the door, which is also the wall of our box, would be as rigid as possible. Just rolling it with regular hard vibration isolation will be more than enough to get the maximum effect and get the most out of the potential of our midbass.

And if our middle part of the door has some holes in addition to the hole for the speaker, then
something needs to be done with them. In the usual version, these holes are simply sealed with vibration isolation and left untouched. In fact, when the speaker starts to play, even if the weather is not the hottest, that part of the vibration isolation that is pasted over the hole will begin to play along with the speaker and the speaker will start to squeeze out this vibration isolation - this will possibly lead to excessive rumble of the skin, and also worsen the low-frequency potential of our dynamics are very strong.

The best way to get out of the situation is to block these holes with some materials. There are many options here - someone will use some kind of aluminum plates, which are cut out in the shape of these holes and sealed with sealant or bolted, someone works with fiberglass. And maybe some more alternative options with some textolite or thin but rigid plywood sheets. As a result: in the middle part of the door you must leave the only hole - this is the hole where our midbass will be installed.

All other openings should be covered as much as possible. If you still have some small holes through which some rods and other mechanisms related to the functionality of the car can pass, then it is allowed to leave them - the main thing then is to ensure their small size.

After we blocked our door with all kinds of plates, we already glue our rigid vibration isolation on top and we get a kind of box in which our midbass will work. And this box, despite the fact that it has some additional drain holes inside the door - it will still remain rigid and we will get the maximum return from our midbass, high-quality, loud, on the low-frequency path.

If we perform vibration isolation as it is "GENERALLY accepted", then our midbass, in addition to playing the outer part of the door, will also be due to the vibration isolation that is glued on top of the holes - squeeze it out too, in fact, the speaker will begin to "fall through" . We will lose its potential in the low-frequency path very strongly and sharply. Of course, if you listen very quietly, then often such vibration isolation may be enough. But if we have a system that can play at medium volume and at high volume, then it is better to provide the door with the most competent preparation.

As for the cladding: in the standard version, at best, some kind of sound insulation is glued to it and the cladding stands in its place - this is not entirely correct.

The fact is that many skins contain fairly large flat surfaces. These surfaces can resonate with the midbass and produce all sorts of sounds and overtones. It is optimal to glue this skin of ours with some kind of vibration isolation, not necessarily even rigid (2-3 mm is enough), glue it in places or completely. After that, as much as possible, paste the soundproofing material.

If the lining does not fasten well due to the fact that we stuffed a lot of soundproofing materials, then
try to get out of the situation by using the so-called disposable anchor-type caps.

This is not an expensive pleasure, which is sold in almost any parts store, but at the same time, the trim will snap into place as tightly and rigidly as possible to the middle part of the car door.

Please note that if we install the speaker in a regular place, then it starts playing through the regular grid of our casing. Often, these grids are so deaf, and in some cases they have a smaller hole radius than the speaker itself, which is installed behind the door, then we have to modify this regular grid or completely cut it out and put some kind of freelance "grill", or clarify those holes that we are.

An ordinary radio fabric comes to the rescue in such operations, which, if you illuminate the regular grid ugly, will help to avoid problems with the external, ugly appearance of the grid, which you might have obtained. Please note that the speaker should be installed as close as possible to this hole (to the grid). At the same time, keep in mind that the speaker has a certain course, it should not hit the skin itself.

When you make a spacer ring and if you get it sufficiently significant in depth, then it is advisable to make it for expansion, so that the sound from the speaker would calmly pass inside the door without restrictions and obstacles and without the "tunnel effect" when the speaker is installed in a certain pipe.

Often at the same time, you can meet the situation that the regular hole in the car for the speaker itself is not very large. At the same time, the speaker is larger than this hole, there are some spacer rings. Thus, if you do not modify this hole and do not expand it, then you can get the effect that the air flow that will go back will not fall inside our volume, not inside our case, but will fall just into the edges of a small hole, which made under the speaker. If possible, such holes should be modified and enlarged.

As for all kinds of acoustic lenses that are glued behind the speaker inside the door.

There are a lot of different opinions about this. And I have it. I conducted experiments with all kinds of lenses and I did not get any significant effect from them and the difference. That is, the sound did not become, no worse, no better. Or if it did, then it was on the verge of some nuances that are not even audible in a car.

So, our well-prepared car door should look like this:
- this is the outer part of the metal, on which rigid vibration isolation is glued, perhaps even in 2 layers.

This is the middle part of the door or the mounting plate, where all openings must be blocked, and this part of the door must also be vibration-isolated with the same rigid vibration isolation.

And our cladding, where we clarified the standard mesh, if it is sufficiently deaf, was also treated with lighter vibration isolation and with a large amount of noise-absorbing material, which will not only deprive us of excess noise that will come from under the cladding, but it will also lead to to the fact that we will lose the extra rattle that the skin can emit

It turns out that there is nothing complicated in the competent preparation of a car door for installing a midbass.
The greatest difficulty can be caused by the fact that often blocking holes is a laborious task,
though not that complicated. Unfortunately, at the same time, most of the doors that I meet in my life, since a large number of cars come to me for tuning, including these cars are made by the owners themselves, as well as in some expensive studios, but in practice it turns out that all the doors made of poor quality. It is a rarity to meet a good well-prepared door.

A few points that we need to consider - the volume in which the speaker operates must be rigid,
the speaker must be rigidly fixed and the dynamics and nothing should interfere in front of the speaker itself in
air passage, not behind the speaker.

#car sound #noise isolation #door soundproofing #Shumka #car vibration isolation #how to soundproof a door

How to soundproof your car

How to glue the car with sound insulation yourself is an urgent issue for any owner, regardless of the model and brand of the car, in recent years they have been saving on sound insulation, so it is either very weak or completely absent.
The process is not at all complicated, but everyone wants to save money, so it’s only important to know what you can make soundproofing in a car from, have the right tools and read our recommendations and tips, and after that you can do it no worse than the masters of this business.

Rookie Mistakes

The most common mistakes motorists make when soundproofing.

With the choice of the contractor

A mistake when choosing a workshop threatens with poor quality work, a banal loss of money and, as a result, a lack of sound insulation effect, and the most unpleasant thing, in this case, is that you conclude that it does not give any effect

Your presence in the room masters are working on your car

As a rule, masters do not like it when clients constantly poke their nose into their work:

• This is the opinion of most of the masters with whom I personally know.
• When someone constantly stands over your soul and looks under your hands in the process of work, even you can be expected to react very hostilely
• Almost no one likes it when someone constantly asks “will everything be ready soon?”, Gets underfoot, just gets in the way, or starts to give advice, pester with questions, all this distracts, creates an atmosphere of nervousness, respectively, such behavior, as a rule, does not affect the outcome in the best way.

Haste and no plan

When you get really excited about soundproofing and want to do it immediately:

• Starting work without planning will be fraught with a huge loss of time and, of course, money.
• You may have to go several times for a tool that will be missed
• It may happen that you have to redo the work
• Once glued and then torn off, sound insulation is no longer suitable for reuse - again a waste of money
• In addition, the process of soundproofing is a matter that requires a lot of time and effort, so you should take into account the time and effort (you can’t do it in an hour or two), here you will have to be patient, perseverance and hard work, especially if you are a beginner

Wrong choice of materials

This is one of the most common and annoying mistakes, from not knowing how to properly soundproof a car:

• As a rule, good, and even more so quality materials always worth good money
• Here, the habit of saving easily leads to new expenses.
• Not only will they begin to peel off prematurely, which leads to corrosion of the case, the effect of such will be weak, and you can again argue that the noise isolation does not work
• In addition, low-quality materials can be harmful to health, they will poison the air with fumes while in the cabin, and you and passengers will breathe

Error with the choice of sound insulation level

When at first you decide that it is enough just to soundproof the car to a minimum, then it will seem to you that it was necessary to do better, more expensive, thicker, but this, as a rule, is a problem for very economical people and perfectionists

Error with the choice of work location

The Internet is full of descriptions and photos of the do-it-yourself soundproofing process, which are carried out anywhere:

• Right on the street, near the office, on the side of the road, etc.
• Here the problem will be the fact that in the wrong place where you will do your soundproofing, you will either be extremely uncomfortable, the onset of night will catch you at the most inopportune moment
• And the most unpleasant thing is that in this case, something will certainly be stolen from you, right from under your hands, you can lose not only tools, but also interior elements, mobile, radio, DVR, etc.

Using the wrong tools

Let's figure out how to make soundproofing in a car, if all the work is done with just a screwdriver - and disassemble the car and roll in vibration isolation, then it will be at least difficult, although it seems to be real:

• However, if you want to do a quality job (so that something doesn’t fall off later), disassemble / assemble the machine without any problems, then you will need the appropriate tools

Self-doubt

• to block out external noise, and to improve the sound quality of music
• From my own experience, I’ll say that even the most primitive “shumka” of doors gives a wonderful effect, in the cabin the music starts to play noticeably better
• With a minimum program for sizing doors, you will need only one vibration-proof material, a vibroplast vibroplast "silver" or "gold" You need to glue from the inside of the door directly opposite the column
• It is important to glue the largest area with vibration-proof material, the quality of insulation depends on it
• Here, too, it is better to take into account the weight of the material, if the doors are excessively weighted, then over time it will sag and you will have to replace the hinges
• If you have a powerful audio system and you want to improve its sound, then you can’t get off with minimal sizing.
• An integrated approach and at least four layers are required (photo below)

• The first layer is glued on the inside of the doors, where the material is glued through special holes
• You can again use a vibroplast of the silver class, (or bimast bombs) behind the speaker
• And with the second layer - on top of the vibration-isolating material, lay 4 mm splenitis (or Accent)
• Next, soundproof the doors from the outside.
• In this option, it is necessary to completely seal all the technological holes, and make the volume of the door practically airtight, in which the speaker will play
• However, it is worth leaving the drainage holes open so that condensation does not accumulate in the doors.
• Outside, glue with vibroplast of the silver class and over it with an accent or splenitis
• The next step is to soundproof the door cards so that they do not make squeaks and other unnecessary sounds.
• Here you will need the anti-creak material "Bitoplast"
• In this zone, the thicker the layer, the better.
• We perform “crickets” inside the doors and pasting rods and handles with the help of madeleine - this is an anti-creak
• The rear doors are treated the same as the front.
• If they do not have speakers, then we reduce the number of layers and choose the type of material thinner

Let's go to the roof

So:

• We do soundproofing of the roof to reduce external noise from rain, eliminate its vibration, and to remove “crickets”:
• You already understood how to glue a car with soundproofing
• After sizing the ceiling, the effect in the rain is simply amazing - even in heavy rain, only muffled blows do not remain inside the cabin, which are almost imperceptible and do not cause discomfort
• Here you can use vibroplast silver, weight is important, the higher the weight of the roof, the more the center of gravity will shift, we recommend using an accent of 4 or 8 millimeters, even in two layers
• The possibilities are limited so that it is possible to install the ceiling sheathing in place without interference

car bottom

Soundproofing the bottom is done to reduce noise from the road surface, and from impacts from pebbles on the bottom of the car:

• Here you can use the best vibration absorbers and good layers, overlap, just do not glue the fasteners, otherwise there will be problems when assembling the interior
• Top again Accent, better small thickness, but in two layers, here the wider the coverage area, the better the effect
• Close attention should be paid to the places of the wheel arches inside the cabin, it is better to glue them thicker (in two or three layers), use “bimast bombs” as a vibration isolator, in its absence vibroplast gold

Trunk and wheel arches

There are a lot of noises and squeaks in the trunk area, so you should not miss it:

• Particular attention should be paid to the niche of the spare wheel, if possible, it should be completely pasted over with anti-vibration material.
• Second layer sound absorber Accent
• Glue all trims in the trunk with Bitoplast anti-squeak material
• Soundproofing wheel arches is necessary to increase comfort in the cabin

Instructions for actions when soundproofing wheel arches from the outside:

• Take off the wheels
• Remove the plastic fenders (you can’t throw them away, they serve as good sound insulators)
• Then you clean it from dirt and glue vibration-insulating material on the surface of the arch, preferably “gold class vibroplast”
• Ideally, use “liquid” noise insulation of the “Noxidol” type, it is easier to apply and works better, and the weight is less and excellent anti-corrosion protection, along with the arches, you can also process the bottom from the outside

This is how all fender liner are soundproofed

• If you do a good job, then the impact of the pebbles should not be heard at all.

What can replace the sound insulation in the car?
An excellent question, you just have to ask it to local "craftsmen" and you will be given a bunch of advice from building sound insulation to linoleum with felt:

• Construction Shumka is used, as a rule, outside the premises, so inside the cabin it may turn out to be toxic, it may burn or melt in the engine compartment, and the effect of it may not justify hopes
• Felt, even acoustic felt, is hardly suitable in a car, because it itself absorbs moisture, pulls it out of the air, so the car body will quickly rust, then felt is by no means a cheap pleasure
• To use felt in a car, it should be sealed in polyethylene
• We are not talking about the use of other "alternative" materials at all.

I have everything, in addition, watch the video for your specific model.