During the operation of the engine, coke and fumes are formed in the fuel combustion chamber at high temperatures. What it is?

How to determine on your own that coke and fumes have accumulated in the car engine?

Coke is a solid deposit on the walls of the combustion chamber, formed when pierced without air. Cinder is the small loose remains of such coke. Oil scraper piston rings are not able to cope with this task, so there is nothing left but to clean the engine with your own hands.

Expert opinion

Ruslan Konstantinov

Automotive expert. Graduated from IzhGTU named after M.T. Kalashnikov with a degree in Operation of Transport and Technological Machines and Complexes. Experience professional repair vehicles for over 10 years.

Coke refers to the deposits of soot, burning and tar in the engine. Coke is formed for various reasons:
driving on low-quality fuel with a low degree of purification;
the use of various additives to increase the octane number, for example, some car owners use lead additives to increase the 92nd gasoline to the 95th (despite the NP ban, finding them on sale is not difficult);
engine oil enters the fuel combustion chambers;
usage engine oil not suitable for this type of engine;
driving on a cold engine with loads (especially important in winter);
movement at low speeds (traffic jams).
These factors certainly contribute to the formation of coke. But even if you exclude them all and use only highly refined gasoline, it is still impossible to exclude deposits. It is an inevitable and natural product of the engine's work. internal combustion.
Coke is dangerous because it disrupts the operation of the engine and gradually leads to the need overhaul. Soot on the walls of the combustion chamber leads to a decrease in the volume of the latter and the appearance of detonation, the strength of which will only grow with an increase in soot.
Carbon deposits on the cylinder head prevent the normal removal of heat, which provokes overheating. Coke on the valves makes the exhaust and incoming gases smaller, and this affects the drop in power and dynamics. Due to soot, the valves cannot close completely, sooner or later this will lead to their burnout. But the most terrible consequence is the reduction in compression and the occurrence of all the problems associated with this due to coked oil scraper and compression rings on the pistons.

Note that when the engine is running, the oil from the exhaust valves is also along with the flows fuel mixture. The higher the mileage of the car, the higher the likelihood that oil will enter the engine combustion chambers not only in the described way, but also through some other engine elements. That is why you should not leave this work “for later”.

As soon as the first signs of “decoking” appear, immediately rid the engine of carbon deposits by removing coke from the entire surface of the engine of the machine.

1. From exhaust pipe burning constantly flies out, and a specific smell appears in the cabin when the ignition is turned on. When does it start cold engine, there is a "smoky" effect.

2. Constantly growing oil consumption.

3. The dynamics of the car has decreased.

4. On Idling engine runs unevenly.

5. In the cold season, the engine barely starts, although everything is in order with the battery.

Decarbonizing methods

In order to perform the decarbonization yourself, you can use one of two methods.

The first of them involves pouring pre-purchased products into the engine cylinders through the holes of the candles, which loosen and remove coke deposits. This option is considered more efficient, and it should be carried out on a warm engine.

In the second case, you should add a chemical agent to gasoline or oil. This method is less troublesome, but it is also less effective. If, nevertheless, you choose this method, then carefully read the instructions on the packaging of the liquid, noting how much substance, in what order and where to fill it.

Now consider the first method of decoking in more detail.

Prepare a screwdriver and purchased fire extinguisher.

1. Remove all spark plugs.

6. Disengage the gear and be sure to rotate the engine with the starter for at least 15 seconds to remove the fluid remaining in the cylinders. If this is forgotten, the engine may be damaged due to water hammer. Before cranking the motor, fix the central high-voltage drive by creating a gap between the ground and the wire tip by a couple of centimeters. This will avoid breakdown of the ignition coil.

7. Tighten the candles, return the drive to its place and start the car. Do not be afraid of any difficulties with starting the engine, or the appearance bad smell after this procedure. Smoke can go on the first 10 km of the car. You can drive when the car has been running for twenty minutes at idle.

Effective engine flush. Engine cleaning methods that really work

How to keep your engine lubrication system clean for years to come. After all, this factor is one of the most important for the health of the engine during the operation of the car. What is it for, let's see. Sludge, slag, carbon - all this is the result of the combustion process in the engine. When we buy a car, due to lack of time, money, etc., we simply forget about proper car maintenance. And this drags on for a long time, during which the sediment in the form of combustion products settles on engine parts. Due to which their friction increases - metal on metal, respectively, destruction occurs.

The oil filter does not always cope with its task, and microparticles that do not fall under the filter begin to circulate in the engine, causing microscopic scratches, damage to the walls of the cylinders and bearings. Valves begin to stick, hydraulic lifters knock, pistons are disrupted, causing engine oscillations. Then the owner of the car wonders why the engine is eating oil in liters per 1000 km. where is this high flow fuel. Here is the result of the car owner's inaction, see the picture below. This motor has not passed even 30,000 km. See what condition it's in.

Why flush the engine

What to do, you ask? And nothing to do, it is necessary to wash, that's all.
Many are skeptical about flushing the engine, for good reason. A lot of junk appeared on the market supposedly flushing, which in their composition have an ultra-high solvent and are in no way suitable for the engine. Don't pay attention to cheap washes.

DO NOT take the first one that comes across from the store shelf.
A good flush is a product that restores compression in the engine cylinders, effectively works to remove sludge and dirt, while not only letting it fall off, but also dissolving it so that it does not clog the channels and is easy to remove from the mixture system.
Also, a good flush should cover all microscopic defects in the motor, and restore both oil seals, and all rubber seals.

Pluses and minuses of washings for the engine.

Bad flush:
- Corrosion of the oil seal, as a result of engine leakage
- Loss of compression
- Increased oil consumption
- loss of power
- clogged channels in the engine

Benefits of a good flush:
- Restored engine compression (You can do a test before and after application)
- reduced fuel and oil consumption
- Sludge cleaning
- The car becomes more responsive, lighter
- Engine noise is reduced
- Has TUV RUF ROHS approval

Ways to clean a car engine

Let's look at several ways to effectively clean the engine of carbon deposits and sludge.

1. In parts stores, you can find such a product as, for example, motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 40. This is a seasonal summer product that has a fairly high detergency and effectively cleans the engine.

Drain the used engine oil and refill this oil without changing the oil filter. Start the engine and run at idle for about 15-30 minutes, you can ride a little.
Then drain the oil, most likely it will be black, as it will collect all the dirt that has collected on the walls, parts, etc. Repeat everything done earlier until the color of the oil is the same as you filled it.

This is one of the best ways to flush the engine, and after clean oil is drained, you will be sure that the engine is clean.
Result. After this method of washing in the engine of the problematic Ford Explorer 1992, oil and fuel consumption decreased, the engine began to run quieter, the car became smoother and more responsive.

2. The second way is to wash the engine well.
Flushing from Liquid Moli Engine flush - in the common people, has long deserved recognition. It is poured into the engine into the used oil, the engine warms up for about 10 minutes and then drains. Great product, easy to use and most importantly effective.

Always take it as a consumable when changing engine oil. Long-term flushing is also suitable here, if everything is completely bad.

Fill it up for 300 km. before the shift, the cleaning will already begin.

Lambda Oil Primer.

Here's another interesting and super effective car engine flush - Lambda Oil Primer.

This product is approved by TUV, ROHS and VAG. Works well in restoring engine compression. Many who used it simply craved to do a compression test before and after application. The results were excellent after washing. Perfect cleanliness and operation of the motor, as well as its subsequent protection.
Used in petrol and diesel engines. One of best premium washes, which is in the world.

As for the characteristics of the product:
Effectively cleans the oil lubrication system, preventing problems associated with the accumulation of sludge, dirt, deposits. After cleaning, clean oil in a clean engine is guaranteed for many kilometers.
It is applied both in the engine, and gearboxes and differentials. Contains a lubricant that protects mechanical parts during the cleaning process.
Suitable for all types of modern and old benz. and diz. engines. added to any motor oil.

Usually, washing means cleaning the body from external dirt and plaque. It can be done contactlessly or manually with a washcloth. Often this procedure is performed once every 1-2 weeks, depending on the frequency of use of the car. But along with the outside, there is another type of sink. It concerns the engine. But, unfortunately, rarely anyone pays attention to him. Some motorists drive like this for years. But in vain. Today we will look at different means for washing a car engine.

How often to do?

There is no regulation here. The degree of regularity of this procedure is determined by the car owner himself. In practice, to maintain cleanliness engine compartment The motor needs to be cleaned once a year.

It is most polluted in winter, after driving on dirty, uncleaned roads.

Why do you need to wash?

Washing a car engine is not only an aesthetic moment. This procedure is necessary for a number of other reasons:

• Road dust and dirt that accumulates on the surface of the motor impairs its heat transfer. As a result, the engine does not work in its mode. This increases the wear of its parts and affects the resource as a whole.
• In case of oil drips (may form under valve cover, and at the junction of the block with the cylinder head) dirt will stick at an incredible speed. As a result, both the engine and its attachments covered with a thick black coating. This makes it very difficult to visually inspect the parts. Also, when oil gets on hot parts of the engine (exhaust manifold), it starts to burn. This provokes a sharp and unpleasant odor penetrating into the cabin.

In order not to experience such problems, you should choose the best car engine wash. Below we will pay more attention to this issue.

Fund types

How to choose a car engine cleaner? With your own hands, this procedure can be done by one of two types of means:

• Specialized.
• Universal.

The first product is only suitable for specific types of dirt. For example, you need to remove oil deposits that have leaked out due to a broken crankshaft oil seal or some kind of gasket. The tool will perfectly remove this pollution, but it will be powerless against the rest. Universal are used for complex cleaning. But sometimes for a qualitative result it is necessary to repeat this procedure again. How to choose a means for washing the engine with your own hands? Experts recommend the use of universal drugs. But in advanced cases, you can not do without specialized ones.

Also, products are distinguished by the type of container. So, there are means for washing the engine in canisters (usually 5 liters each). It is very inconvenient to use them - you have to pour them into another, less voluminous container. Most suitable option- means in the form of a spray-sprayer and in spray cans. The product is evenly sprayed onto the surface and even reaches hidden cavities.

Restone Heavy Duty

This is a general purpose engine cleaner. Sold in the form of an aerosol can with a volume of 390 milliliters. Instructions for use are quite simple:

• Warm up the engine to operating temperature and then turn it off.
• Protect the power supply system (battery) and ignition (candles, coils) from moisture.
• Apply the product evenly over the surface.
• After ten minutes, rinse off with running water.

According to reviews, after application to the surface, the drug forms an active foam.

It easily penetrates into hidden cavities and is perfectly retained until washed off. Removes both dirt and oil deposits. But with serious pollution, the product struggles with difficulty. Summing up the remedy, we can say that the product is only suitable for preventive measures. In advanced cases, he is powerless.

STP

Sold in the form of an aerosol can. The volume of 500 milliliters is enough for several applications. The product is used to clean engines passenger cars, minibuses and SUVs. Instructions for use are similar to the previous one (although there is no Russian language here), except for the waiting time. After applying the product, you must wait about 15 minutes. You should also protect the batteries and ignition in the car.

During application, the product showed excellent results. After the first use, up to 85 percent of deposits were removed from the surface. The tool is highly commendable.

"Liquid Moly"

It is a spray cleaner. Sold in a 400 ml bottle. According to the instructions, after applying the drug, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and wash everything off with a stream of clean water. The Liquid Moli product copes with fatty deposits, road dust, reagents and oily stains. According to the manufacturer, the tool provides a 100% result. In practice, the original tool really did the job. But when buying, you need to remember that under the Liquid Moli brand, a lot of fakes are offered at a reduced price.

"Laurel"

This is already a Russian product, manufactured in Chelyabinsk. It is a concentrated cleaner for universal use. It has a foam composition containing emulsifiers and solvents.

Thanks to this, the product provides the maximum effect when cleaning internal combustion engines. Removes oil and other contaminants and prevents corrosion. Sold in a 3-5 liter canister. Unlike previous engine wash products, Lavr has slightly different instructions for use:

• The concentrate is mixed with water in the ratio of "one to three".
• The engine warms up to operating temperatures.
• The air duct, food and other vulnerable elements are closed.
• The solution is applied with a sprayer.
• After five minutes, the product can be removed with a high pressure jet.
• In case of severe contamination, it is possible to use the concentrate without pre-mixing.

Is "laurel" the best remedy to wash the engine? This is a highly controversial issue. This tool is mostly suitable for specialized services, rather than for an ordinary car owner. The volume of the solution can reach 15 liters.

This is a lot, since half a liter is enough for an ordinary passenger car. Compared to competitors, the engine cleaner shows good results. From the first time it is possible to clean up to 50 percent of deposits. "On a cold" drug is practically powerless. It is applied only to a thoroughly warmed up engine, as the solution boils at 80 degrees Celsius. It is in this range that its maximum cleaning efficiency is achieved.

Precautionary measures

Airways should be protected as much as possible before using this product. Vapors of such cleaning products are very harmful to human health. Also, you can not work with the product with bare hands - only through rubber gloves. If substance comes in contact with skin, wash immediately with warm water and soap.

As for the car itself, the following vulnerable elements should be closed:

• Battery.
• Spark plugs and armored wires.
• Carburetor (if any).
• Air filter housing.
• Trambler (if any).
• Generator.
• Engine sensors and their contacts.

Attachments should be covered with cellophane or polyethylene.

Remember that if water gets in, it is not always possible to dry the part. Liquid can penetrate into hidden cavities and cause a short circuit.

It is also not recommended to use " folk remedies to wash the engine. These are gasoline, kerosene and other substances. They are not only inefficient, but also flammable. Only specialized products should be used in cans, sprays or in the form of a concentrate.

Conclusion

Washing the engine is an important preventive measure that few people pay due attention to. Thanks to it, oil leaks and other problems during the operation of the car can be detected in advance. Cleaning costs are very affordable. And any car owner can cope with this procedure.

The formation of soot and coke on engine parts and the internal surfaces of its blocks is a natural process that cannot be avoided. At the same time, the appearance of soot increases wear power unit and contributes to its failure. Is there a way to remove deposits without disassembling the engine? Certainly! Next, we'll show you how to do it.

1 When to remove carbon deposits - the first symptoms

First of all, let's figure out how to determine that the engine needs to be cleaned of soot formed inside the cylinders and on its other parts. Fortunately, the problem manifests itself by the occurrence of the following symptoms:

• an unheated engine does not start well;
• after starting, strong smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, the engine troit for some time;
• exhaust gases have a specific smell of burning;
• the dynamics of the car decreases, the engine “pulls” poorly;
• there is an excessive consumption of fuel;
• when the ignition is turned off, the fuel in the cylinders continues to ignite for some time, and strong vibrations. This phenomenon is called pre-ignition, because the ignition combustible mixture comes from a hot soot, not a spark;
• The engine gets very hot.

If these signs appear, do not delay cleaning the motor, since the presence of soot can lead to more unpleasant consequences, such as burnt valves, failure of the connecting rod and piston group. To prevent carbon deposits from forming on engine parts for as long as possible, use high-quality synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and be sure to change them on time.

2 We start with the combustion chamber - flushing the piston system

Cleaning the engine with chemical compounds is of two types:

• soft - involves the addition of various additives and cleaning agents to the fuel;
• hard - carried out by flushing the combustion chambers.

Soft washing can only be useful as a preventive measure, so we will not consider it. If you need to wash off the carbon deposits that have accumulated in the engine in large quantities (you have noticed that the above symptoms have appeared), a tough cleaning is required. To produce it, you need a special decoking liquid. It is often sold with compressed air in a spray can, syringe and tube. In this case, you will not need any other devices. If only liquid is included, the syringe and compressed air must be purchased separately.

We start flushing by warming up the engine to a temperature of at least 70 degrees. Then you need to unscrew all the candles, and also disconnect the central wire from the distributor. Be sure to mark the candle high voltage wires so as not to forget in what order they are connected to the cylinders. Next, you need to check crankshaft so that all pistons are approximately at the same level. To do this, turn the pulley nut (below in the photo) or the drive wheel, after jacking it up.

Then it is necessary to pour liquid for decoking into each cylinder using a syringe and tube. The volume of fluid required for each cylinder is indicated by manufacturers in the instructions. Next, tighten the spark plugs and leave the engine for a few hours. If the combustion chambers are heavily coked, wait 12 hours (it is advisable to rotate the crankshaft periodically).

Next, pump out the remaining fluid from the cylinders using a tube and syringe. Then blow out each cylinder with compressed air. Then you should press the gas pedal all the way and crank the crankshaft with the starter for five to ten seconds. At the end of the work, connect all the ignition wires and start the engine. Let the motor run for five or ten minutes. At first, slight smoke is possible, but do not be alarmed, this will burn out the cleaning agent that remains in the engine.

Keep in mind that the above operation allows you to get rid of carbon deposits only in the combustion chambers. However, deposits also appear on other engine parts. To get rid of them, it is necessary to flush the lubrication system.

3 Cleaning the lubrication system - let's not leave carbon deposits a chance

Flushing the lubrication system can be done in several ways:

• additive "five-minute";
• oil "five minutes";

The easiest way to flush the engine is the so-called five-minutes. If an additive is used for these purposes, then it is simply added to the engine, and then the engine runs for 5 minutes at idle, after which the old oil with the additive is drained, the filter is changed, and new fluid is poured. The engine is also flushed with five-minute oil, but it must not be mixed with old oil. Those. first you need to drain the old oil and only after that fill in the flushing oil. On it, the motor should run for 5 minutes in idle mode, after which the flushing is drained and filled new lubricant. Please note that in no case can you ride a five-minute ride.

A better result can be achieved with flushing oil, on which the car must drive about a hundred kilometers. This composition is poured in place of the old oil. Please note that this lubricant must be driven in break-in mode, as it has weak protective properties. Then the flushing oil is drained and the usual one is poured.

As you can see, it is not at all difficult to clean the engine of carbon deposits, at the same time, this procedure can significantly extend the life of the internal combustion engine. She should not be neglected!

During the operation of the car, carbon compounds are formed on the internal surfaces of the engine and in the channels of the lubrication system. Their appearance is inevitable, and this problem cannot be solved simply by using engine oil. High Quality. Also, do not forget that when draining old, used oil, some of it remains inside the engine. What does this mean for the car?

When you pour new oil into the engine, the additives contained in it will immediately begin to interact with deposits and contaminants. This can lead to various negative impacts, including:

• partial clogging oil filter;
• premature production of an additive package, loss operational properties freshly filled oil.

How to be in this situation? It is necessary to use special flushing agents, thanks to which the engine will run efficiently and smoothly after changing the engine oil.

How often should flushing be done? This should be done every time you change your oil or oil filter.

How to choose an engine flush? The obvious option is to use fresh engine oil. In this case, everything is simple: you need to drain the old oil and fill in new. After the engine has been running for a while, the oil used as a flush is drained and fresh again. This approach provides good result, but it has a serious drawback - high cost. Using oil as an engine flush means you pay twice for it.

The next option is to use a special flushing oil. This flush is poured into car engine after draining the old oil, after which it needs to work for about 15-20 minutes at idle. Usually this product is created on a mineral basis, which makes it affordable. Then you change the filter and drain the used engine flush, replacing it with fresh oil. Unfortunately, such products cannot be drained completely, some part inevitably remains in the internal cavities, mixes with fresh oil, worsens its viscosity and other performance properties.

The best option is flushing, which is called the "five-minute", as well as other similar products. This tool is a set of additives that is poured into old oil, mixed with it and effectively removes contaminants and deposits formed in the engine. This wash has many advantages. She:

• restores the mobility of compression and oil scraper piston rings;
• improves heat dissipation;
• minimizes engine wear, increases its resource;
• makes it easier to drain old oil.

Separately, it is worth noting the safety of such flushes for rubber seals, oil seals, valve stem seals.

In some cases, it is necessary to use the so-called professional flushes that can cope with the most difficult tasks of cleaning engines from contamination. How are they different from regular products? In professional washing, the content of active ingredients is increased. They are recommended for use in the following cases:

• permanent use mineral oils insufficiently high quality (flushing should be used at least once every three oil changes);
• severe overheating of the engine and the resulting formation of soot;
• frequent use of fuel of dubious quality;
• obvious engine malfunctions - poor start-up, loss of compression, smoke, and so on;
• significant excess of the oil change interval;
• constant strong knock of hydraulic lifters caused by clogging of the oil supply line.

To flush heavily worn engines, special products are used that are designed for effective and at the same time gentle cleaning. The fact is that during cleaning, large fragments of deposits can form that can harm interacting parts. The use of special flushes allows deposits and contaminants to be transferred into low-dispersion phases that cannot damage the engine.

High quality washes from Liqui Moly

Company Liqui Moly manufactures high-quality products that help to cope with deposits and contaminants formed in the engine. They make oil changes easier and more efficient.

The following washes are examples:

• Engine Flush - a fast-acting substance, "five-minute", with which you can flush the engine at regular replacement oils;
• Oilsystem Spulung Light is a gentle oil system cleaner, easy to use and extremely effective;
• Oil-Schlamm-Spulung - a product of enhanced action, which makes it possible to flush the engine with strong contamination and get rid of sludge formed in the system after prolonged overheating;
• Oilsystem Spulung High Performance Diesel is a powerful cleaner designed to remove contaminants from a diesel engine.

Every Liqui Moly rinse is carefully formulated, tested and proven to work. A wide range allows you to find a solution for each specific case.