A car is a complex mechanism in which everything must work perfectly. Otherwise, the risk of an accident increases seriously, moreover, one faulty part can lead to premature wear the entire system. To prevent this from happening, you need to be attentive to your iron comrade and fix all malfunctions in time for their prompt elimination.

The engine is the heart of the car. Without its normal functioning, the very possibility of movement is called into question. vehicle. A negative role in the operation of this unit is played by air leakage in the intake manifold. If this defect appears in your car, the engine can stall in the middle of the road.

Essence and symptoms

The essence of the malfunction

When there is a leak in the intake manifold, much more air begins to flow into the engine than it should. Naturally, this negatively affects the operation of the entire system.

Important! The result of the appearance of air leakage in the intake manifold is the depletion of the fuel-air mixture.

When this symptom is activated, the motor starts to work unstably. Depending on the severity of the breakdown, the list of possible symptoms can vary greatly. Therefore, it is not so easy to find a malfunction.

Symptoms of an engine leak

For many years, car owners and automotive experts A whole list of symptoms has been compiled that may indicate that the engine is sucking air through the intake manifold:

1. On the idling the engine is running erratically. With such a symptom, you simply cannot set the idle below the 1000 rpm mark. Each attempt will turn off the motor.
2. Temperature changes. The engine will overheat frequently. Plus it won't depend on the driving mode you choose.
3. Difficulties when starting will be especially noticeable in the morning.
4. On the low revs motor power will be greatly reduced. At a mark of less than 2000 rpm, the car will not be able to accelerate.
5. Fuel consumption will increase dramatically.
6. When driving at 2000 rpm and more problem missing.

Each of these symptoms indicates that there is air leakage in the intake manifold. Therefore, if at least one of them is found, it is necessary to carry out detailed diagnostics and determine the error.

We diagnose and fix leaks

Start the engine first. It must run at idle. After that, listen to the operation of the device. Very a characteristic hiss of air can often be heard.

Attention! By the source of the hiss, you can find a breakdown.

In some cases, it is not immediately possible to localize the source of noise. In this case, you will need to pinch the hoses that connect to the manifold. In most situations, problems are observed with the vacuum hose, which is responsible for boosting the brakes. But exceptions are possible.

Sometimes a power surge can be observed during the removal of the clamp. In this case, the problem lies precisely in this detail. Usually this indicates such malfunctions as:

• adsorber valve failure,
• failure vacuum booster,
• holes in the hose.

If after the manipulations the problem is still not detected, you must use the sprayer. It is poured into flammable liquid. It is best to use special cleaners for carburetors.

In a thin stroke, spray liquid on potential places through which air is supposedly leaking into the intake manifold. With special care you need to process:

• cylinder head joint,
• collector joint,
• corrugation,
• receiver seams,
• throttle joint.

As soon as the liquid enters the damaged area, it will be drawn in and end up in the motor. In this case, you will observe a jump in revolutions.

The most efficient method

In order to use this technique for detecting air leaks in the manifold, you need to find a smoke generator. Next, select any opening in the intake tract and slowly begin to pump smoke through it into the system.

Attention! As a consumable, it is better to use motor oil, it provides a large amount of smoke.

Next, to find the air leak in the intake manifold, take a halogen lamp. With it, you can easily find wisps of smoke. For the procedure, you will need special adapters.

Troubleshooting

A lot depends on where you find the air leak in the manifold. For example, if the hole in the hose is small, you can use sealant and cover up the damage. Of course, ideally, the damaged element should be replaced. Very often this operation must be done with couplings, o-rings and gaskets.

Results

Air leakage through the intake manifold is easiest to diagnose using a smoke generator. The elimination of the defect directly depends on where exactly the breakdown was detected.

If at hard pressing on the gas pedal, the engine of your car starts to choke or stall, in many cases this is a sign of a clear air leak. Excessive air is supplied to the power unit, due to which an air-fuel mixture is too lean. And it does not burn as well as it is intended by the manufacturer. This leads to engine breakdown and precarious work at idle.

The main signs of air leakage

Most often, air leakage from a car engine is manifested by the following symptoms:

• Problems with starting after a long parking (for example, in the morning).
• Power reduction. On power units with an air flow meter, idle speed drops, and on engines with an absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor), on the contrary, the speed increases (diagnostic, misfiring and lean mixture also appear).
• Unstable operation at idle - the tachometer needle constantly twitches, and at the "bottom" the engine may stall. In cars with a carburetor engine, the quantity and quality of the mixture is practically impossible to adjust, since air enters in excess.
• Increased fuel consumption - in order to start and continue driving, the driver is forced to maintain high speeds without switching to higher speeds.

Typical air leaks

Of course, each case is individual, but suction usually occurs in such places of the engine:

• throttle assembly gasket;
• connection of the intake manifold with the cylinder head;
• vacuum brake booster;
• adsorber valve;
• branch pipe connecting the throttle assembly and the housing air filter;
• vacuum hoses, their connections and tees;
• sealing gum fuel injectors;
• idle control.

In the case of cars equipped with carburetor engines, it is much easier to find a leak. There are not many electronic devices and sensors, and the extra air usually enters the engine through the brake booster or one of the elements of the carburetor itself.

Air leak in the carburetor:

• gasket (suction is easy to detect by the presence of soot);
• throttle axes;
• screw for adjusting the quality of the mixture;
• leaky connection throttle valve;
• damage to the economizer diaphragm, throttle damper vacuum diaphragm or starter diaphragm.

Diesel fuel system air intake

Usually airing fuel system diesel engine is caused by damage at the junction of the pipes connecting fuel tank and filter or filter and high pressure fuel pump.

Air leakage in a damaged fuel system is due to the fact that the supply pressure diesel fuel from a tank below atmospheric. Therefore, it is extremely difficult to identify the place of suction.

On the diesel vehicles, which have been produced in recent years, the penetration of air into the fuel system occurs more often compared to diesel engines old type. The reason lies in the different design of the hoses, the service life of which has been noticeably reduced. Previously, these elements were made of brass, and now they are made of plastic. Constant vibrations lead to wear of plastic and sealing rubber bands. Most often, such difficulties are faced by owners of cars with a mileage of about 150-200 thousand kilometers, and often the leak occurs in winter.

The most popular causes of suction in such cases:

• wear of clamps and hoses;
• damage to the fuel filter seal;
• damage to the seals of the fuel pump cover or drive shaft;
• leaky fuel lines;
• damage to the return fuel line;

Important! Usually the problem is caused by worn sealing elements. Airing of the fuel supply system can occur on the supply or return line.

Signs of air leakage in a diesel car

Most often, the engine does not want to start after long periods of inactivity. The driver is forced to repeatedly turn the key in the ignition lock using the starter. This is accompanied by the appearance of smoke from exhaust pipe, which is a sign of normal fuel supply. If the suction is very significant, the engine will not only start poorly in the morning, but also stall while driving.

The reason lies in the fact that the pump cannot work normally at idle, because too much air enters the chamber. On the increased speed TNVD even more or less copes. Such symptoms are not always caused by suction, so we advise you to check the “diagnosis” by installing transparent fuel pipes.

How to find air leakage in the fuel system of a diesel engine

Air can enter the system through the connection, fuel tank, or pipe. The search is quite simple - by applying pressure or by exclusion. In the first case, it is necessary to apply pressure to the fuel tank, after which you will hear a characteristic hiss at the place of suction or see drops of fuel. The second method is to check the elements of the fuel system one by one, ensuring that fuel is supplied from a container, not a tank. First we connect to fuel pump and we go further.

Air leak in intake manifold

If air enters the engine that is not “seen” by the air mass meter or absolute pressure sensor, too much lean mixture fuel and air. This problem is caused by air leaks in the intake tract.

Main reasons:

• overheating of the motor (affects the condition of the gaskets);
• external intervention;
• gasket damage due to misuse carbcleaner.

Very often, difficulties can arise if the seal between the intake manifold and the cylinder head is damaged, since it is not easy to visually detect such leakage.

Search for suction in the manifold

On the gasoline engines excess air may end up in the manifold due to depressurization of the air ducts, wear of the sealing gum of the fuel injectors, or damage to the hoses leading to the vacuum brake booster.

In order to find air leakage, different methods are used:

1. Blocking the air supply. It is necessary to disconnect the pipe from the filter housing and start the engine. After that, cover the pipe with your hand - if there is no suction, the engine will stall. If the engine continues to run and you hear a hiss, there is definitely a leak.
2. Hose clip. It is necessary to start the engine and after a certain time try to hear the hiss. If it was not possible to find the place of leakage, it is necessary to pinch the hoses that are connected to the receiver in turn. If you kink and release the hose and this affects the operation power unit, look for a problem in this area.
3. Compressed air. The intake system of an idle engine must be treated with a soapy solution, then shut off the air supply from the filter and pump air through one of the tubes.
4. Spraying with combustible mixture. To find the place of air leakage into the engine, tools such as gasoline, WD-40 or carburetor cleaner are used. Using the selected product, it is necessary to spray all joints. When the liquid is in the place of suction, you will notice changes in the operation of the engine (the speed should rise or fall). For spraying, it is better to use a medical syringe.

Using this method, check the following places: the nozzle between valve cover and idle speed controller, pipe between the mass air flow sensor and the IAC, intake manifold and throttle valve connection, manifold and cylinder head connection, injector seals, all hoses in the clamp mounting areas.

1. Smoke generator. Not all motorists have such a device, and therefore it is usually used in auto repair shops. You can buy a ready-made solution or make it yourself (there are enough instructions and videos on the Internet). The bottom line is that it is necessary to ensure that smoke is supplied through any hose to the intake manifold. IN problem areas smoke will seep out.

When foreign air enters the carburetor, lean occurs fuel mixture entering the engine cylinders. The share of gasoline remains the same in it, but the share of air increases significantly. Such a composition simply does not ignite or ignites with difficulty and for a short time.

Therefore, the engine may not start at all (as well as), it may be possible both when starting off and in motion.

If the suspicion falls on the leakage of connections, seals and hoses, then it is necessary to check them as soon as possible.

General check for "suction" of foreign air into the carburetor

There is one effective way check if foreign air is being sucked into the carburetor. It is necessary to remove the air filter housing from it, start the engine, let it run for a while, and then cover the carburetor from above with your palm.

In the event that the engine continues to operate with blocked air supply channels, an attempt should be made to search for the places of this very “leakage”.

If the carburetor has stalled, look for the cause of the malfunction in something else, and not in the "suction" of extraneous air. Of course, this check does not claim to be exceptionally accurate, but in some cases it can help.

Possible places for foreign air to enter the carburetor

- Check how tightly the carburetor solenoid valve is wrapped or an idle fuel jet holder inserted instead.

For a number of reasons, they sometimes turn out and even get lost. It is necessary to wrap the valve or holder, and if the engine began to work normally, by wrapping or unscrewing the solenoid valve, we achieve stable idle speed.

The fuel jet holder (on a number of carburetors it is installed instead of the solenoid valve) should be wrapped with a little effort.

solenoid valves carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex and 2105, 2107 Ozone

It is also necessary to check whether the sealing rubber ring on the solenoid valve is damaged.

- Check the presence and condition of the rubber sealing ring on the screw "quality" of the fuel mixture.

In the image, as an example, the screw for adjusting the "quality" of the fuel mixture at idle speed of the carburetor 2107 "Ozone" with a rubber o-ring.

screw for adjusting the "quality" of the fuel mixture of the carburetor 2105. 2107 Ozone

- Check the tightness of the vacuum hoses

- From the ignition distributor (distributor) to the carburetor.

— From the vacuum brake booster to the intake manifold.

- Crankcase ventilation hose It is necessary to make sure that they fit tightly on the fitting, that there are no cracks, cuts, punctures and abrasions.

Clamp the hoses in turn near the carburetor fittings, and try to start the engine. If the "suction" of air is blocked in this way, the engine will work normally. In the image of the place of the probable "leakage" of extraneous air into the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.

places of probable “sucking” of extraneous air into the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex cars VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

- Check the tightness of the gaskets under the carburetor and intake manifold

If no gaps are visually visible and the whistle of sucked air is not audible when the engine is scrolled by the starter, then we try to tighten the nuts of the carburetor and intake manifold. Tightening torque 13 -16 N.m - carburetor nuts, 21 -26 N.m intake manifold nuts. That is, it is not necessary to pull hard, especially on a warm engine.

The tightening did not help, we remove the carburetor and change the gaskets, since they are not expensive.

It is possible to cover the checked connections with soap foam or VD-40 liquid, in the place of "suction" a window is formed in the soap foam.

As a result of excessive tightening of the carburetor mounting nuts or for any other reason, the carburetor landing plane may be deformed and then excess air will be sucked in for this reason. To identify this defect, it is necessary to put the carburetor removed from the engine on a deliberately flat surface, for example, a sheet of thick glass and see if there is a gap between the lower plane of the carburetor and the flat surface. There shouldn't be any gaps. There are two ways out either to grind the landing plane of the carburetor or put an extra gasket under it.

Everything car engines, regardless of their type (with an injector or carburetor) operate on a mixture of fuel and air. The ratio of these components in the mixture is precisely calculated and regulated either electronically or mechanically.

But, sometimes it happens that an additional air leak occurs, the mixture is “diluted” and the motorist can observe a serious loss of power in his car (which is especially noticeable at low speeds). We will talk about why this happens and how to fix this situation in today's article.

Air leak and its symptoms

Such a phenomenon as suction is associated with the penetration of air into the fuel path of the machine. It leads to a lean mixture and, as a result, greatly affects the operation of the engine, reducing its power and causing interruptions in operation.

If air leaks in the intake manifold, the symptoms of the VAZ 2114 may be as follows:

• unstable idle speed;
• engine tripping;
• "sagging" during acceleration;
• increased consumption of gasoline;
• difficult start even at high air temperature;
• a sharp drop in power (especially at speeds below 3,000 min-1).

If the engine stalls very often, then this may also indicate that there is an air leak in the VAZ 2114. You can additionally verify this problem by using a car scanner. Errors P0171 (very lean mixture) and P300 (misfires are observed) may indicate the presence of suction.

Stable operation of the engine at high speeds does not at all mean the absence of suction, since it is most clearly manifested precisely at low speeds. It is worth remembering this so as not to be misled and not to start looking for other causes of problems.

As soon as you notice that there are signs of air leaks, you should immediately start looking for a possible place for its penetration into the system.

Places of possible suction

There are quite a few places through which air can enter the fuel system, and during the check you will have to examine them all (we will talk about exactly how to detect them below).

In the meantime, let's say that we have to check:

1. 1. Intake manifold gasket (its destruction or burnout in the vast majority of cases is the cause of suction).

1. Hoses and nozzles suitable for the manifold.
2. Nozzle seals.
3. Throttle pads.
4. Plugs placed on the manifold.
5. Bushings.
6. Vacuum type brake boosters.

If symptoms of air leakage VAZ 2114 injector appear, all these elements will have to be checked.

You should also check and, if necessary, replace the idle speed sensor. Very often they have low quality manufacturing and are leaking, leading to air ingress into the manifold.

How to find a suction point

There are 3 main methods by which you can find a leaky area:

• by monitoring the rarefaction of air in the line;
• using a smoke generator;
• with a volatile flammable liquid.

We will omit the first method, since it requires special equipment, which is not available at all stations. Maintenance. But the second method deserves great attention, since it is quite simple to implement and at the same time very accurate. For it you will need a compressor, a blow gun and cigarettes (the latter will serve as a source of smoke).

Before you check the air leak of the VAZ 2114, you will need to assemble the entire installation, namely, connect the gun to the compressor receiver, and insert a cigarette into the nozzle of the gun. After that, a pressure of about 0.8 atmospheres is injected and the smoke is directed into the collector with a pistol.

The smoke itself created by such an installation is quite thick, and quickly fills the entire system. All that remains for the motorist is to carefully monitor the place where the smoke exits, and after detecting it, carry out repair work.

In some cases, the leak can be found without additional means - the damaged area is easy to detect by the characteristic whistle or hiss that the intake air produces when the engine is running. True, this happens only in the presence of serious cracks and gaps.

If the proposed method using a smoke generator is not suitable (for example, a compressor is not available), then the test can also be performed using volatile flammable liquids packed in pressurized canisters. They can be used as ethyl ether (however, it is practically impossible to get it in its pure form), a means for winter starting diesel engines (the main component of which is the same ether), as well as special cleaning products based on hydrocarbons.

In order to find a place for leakage, you need to start the car engine and, at idle, start spraying all possible nodes, joints, plugs and hoses that are related to the manifold and can cause air to enter.

This should be done with pauses - after spraying one place, it is worth waiting a few seconds. If you notice that the engine speed has increased sharply after the procedure, then the detected place should be densely sprayed again. If after that the speed again quickly goes up, then the place of suction has been successfully found.

Useful video

You can find additional interesting information on this issue in the video below:

A vacuum leak can cause a lot of drivability problems, as it adds excess, unwanted air into the engine, forcing out the air/fuel mixture. Modern engines internal combustion(multiport fuel injection) use intake vacuum to control sensors, actuators, and power brakes (on some vehicles). Older engines also use it to control some emission control devices and feed fuel into the combustion chamber.

Thus, even a small vacuum leak or air leak can deceive you and your car computer, leading you to believe that a particular sensor or system needs to be repaired. Then you start replacing components, hoping that you will fix the problem, but to no avail.

Often a vacuum leak will make an audible hissing sound that makes it easier to find, other times, however, you won't hear anything. Auto shops and service stations use special, expensive equipment to detect hard-to-find leaks. But before heading to the store, you can apply simple methods used to track the most common vacuum leaks.

This guide will not only help you find a vacuum leak or clogged vacuum hose, it will also give you helpful tips for repairs and will also tell you what problems with the engine may indicate a possible vacuum leak. So let's start there.

Throttle body and intake manifold gaskets can also leak.

How to Check for Air Leaks and Troubleshoot a Possible Vacuum Leak

vacuum hoses are a common source of engine performance problems. After years of use, vacuum hoses wear out, harden, split, or soften, and vacuum tubes deteriorate, become brittle, and break, causing all sorts of engine performance problems.

So when you notice an engine performance problem and can't find the source, incorporate vacuum leak diagnostics into your repair strategy.

Depending on your make and model of car, you can find different sensors and executive mechanisms which depend on a good source of vacuum to work. For example, some engines use a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor that requires vacuum to measure outside air pressure.

Leaking MAP sensor vacuum can impair ignition timing, engine stability, and engine efficiency. A vacuum leak can also prevent opening, cause the engine to overheat, and increase harmful emissions. This type of leak can also affect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system.

Air leak symptoms

Here is a list of performance issues to be aware of as they may be related to vacuum leaks:

• Hard start
• Low engine power
• Mixture misfires
• Poor fuel economy
• Bad acceleration
• Rough idle
• High idle
• The engine runs intermittently (as if coughing)
• Poor brake performance (on vacuum power brakes)

Keep in mind that these symptoms are not exclusive to a vacuum leak. For example, a faulty EGR valve, poor compression, or ignition timing issues may also cause one or more of these symptoms.

Check the vacuum hose connectors for cracks that could lead to a vacuum leak.

How to find air leaks and vacuum leaks

OK. You have problems with the operation of the engine, and you want to check where the system is sucking air or leaking, where to start?

First find a vacuum chart for your vehicle. You can find a copy of the vacuum circuit in your vehicle owner's manual, but most car manufacturers include the circuit in engine compartment. Raise the hood and inspect the front of the engine compartment for a sticker.

If you can't find it in your manual or in your engine bay, you can buy one from your dealer service department. Another source is your car repair manual, which contains all kinds of useful information, which you can use to maintain and troubleshoot many automotive systems. Thus, you will make a good investment.

The vacuum diagram shows the various vacuum controlled devices and their relationship. Newer car models display component similarity and location.

OK. Now that you have a vacuum diagram for your car, you can start troubleshooting for a potential leak. However, even if you don't have a chart right now, you can still follow the steps below.

(Note. If you are trying to locate a potential vacuum leak due to a DTC you received after the light came on check engine your car computer may be adjusting the air/fuel ratio to compensate, so the engine may not sound like it has a performance problem. If so, disconnect the throttle position sensor [mounted on the throttle body] or the oxygen sensor to force the computer to run the engine in "hard code" [open loop] mode so you can hear the engine - rough idle. This will make it easier to locate the source of the vacuum leak during diagnostics.)

If you suspect a particular device (or several), you can start with that device. Otherwise, follow the diagram and start checking each hose. If you don't have a diagram, check each vacuum hose as you move around the engine. Most vacuum hoses are thin and soft, except for the one used on the brake booster, which is thicker and stronger in construction, and possibly a PCV hose.

Troubleshooting vacuum leaks requires a careful visual inspection of the hose, making sure it is properly connected, and listening for the tell-tale hiss sound.

But the noise of a running engine can make it impossible to hear the hissing sound coming from a leaking vacuum hose or gasket. You have two options for this: you can use a mechanic's stethoscope to help amplify the sounds in your ear, or you can use a length of hose for the same purpose.

How to Check Every Vacuum Hose

Perform the following steps to inspect each vacuum hose, keeping a reasonable distance from moving components during inspection:

1. Start the engine and let it idle. Set the transmission to park (automatic) or neutral (manual) and apply the emergency brake.
2. Make sure the hose is properly connected and not loose. When servicing or replacing a component, the hose is easily damaged. You may need a small mirror and flashlight to check hard-to-reach areas, such as behind the intake manifold, throttle body, or exhaust manifold.
3. Disconnect and inspect both ends of the hose. If the inner end of the hose is torn, worn, or expanded, cut off the damaged part and reconnect the hose to the fitting.
4. Track the length of the hose with your fingers to check for rough, hardened, split, softened, or areas that stand out from the hose. Also, try to feel the vacuum in those rough or uneven places.
5. Check if the hose is near or not touching a hot surface.
6. Also, check hose connectors, tees, and fittings for cracks or looseness. Replace them if necessary.
7. Also check the hose for contaminants such as oil, coolant, or other substances. Disconnect the hose from the device it connects to and check inside the device connector. If you find a foreign substance inside the hose, contamination may have entered the inside of the device, it may not work properly. You may need to test the device for proper operation.
8. As part of your visual inspection, inspect the devices that the vacuum hoses connect to. Check devices for damage such as cracks, dents, and loose parts. They can also create a vacuum leak. Squeeze the vacuum line leading to the device and spray it with soapy water and look closely to see if it is foaming somewhere, and if so, the leak is there.
9. If you find a hose with a softened, hardened, or damaged area, replace it.

Replace the intake manifold gasket if there is a vacuum leak.

Air leak in the intake manifold symptoms

While you are more likely to experience a vacuum hose leak, intake manifold gasket leaks can also occur. If the previous inspection did not indicate that something is wrong, check the intake gasket between the manifold and cylinder head, as well as the base gasket located between the intake manifold and the throttle body or carburetor.

To test these gaskets, you can use one of two simple alternative methods:

• Soapy water in a spray bottle.
• Mechanic's stethoscope or listen through a long hose with one end to the examination site and the other to the ear

Any of these methods are good.

1. Apply emergency brakes.
2. Set your gear to park (automatic) or neutral (manual).
3. Block the wheels so they are safer and prevent the vehicle from moving.
4. Start the engine and let it idle.
5. Use soapy water, spray lightly around the intake manifold where it mates with the cylinder head and around the carburetor base or throttle body. Remember to visually check the intake manifold itself for cracks and spray water in suspicious places.
6. Listen for any changes in engine idling.
7. You may also see bubbles at the vacuum leak.

Note. To use a hose (or a mechanic's stethoscope), put one end of the hose in your ear and move the other end of the hose around the edge of the intake manifold gasket and the carburetor or throttle body gasket. If there is an air leak, you will hear a hissing sound.

If you find a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or throttle body base, first try tightening the intake or throttle body mounting bolt:

• Tighten the bolts progressively in a criss-cross pattern - when tightening the manifold, start from the center and work out.
• Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the vehicle repair manual using a torque wrench.
• Check again for vacuum leaks.
• If the leak is still present, you will need to replace the intake manifold gasket or throttle body gasket.
• Follow the instructions in your vehicle repair manual to replace any gasket.

Watch the video below to see the guy using water to diagnose a misfire on cylinder one.

Vacuum leak detection with water

Often a thorough visual and manual inspection such as described above is sufficient to detect a vacuum leak. But not all the time.

Some components operating under vacuum may have internal damage (eg diaphragm rupture). And you cannot diagnose this type of damage by touch or sight.

So, if you suspect a vacuum leak but can't find the source, this is the next step in your troubleshooting strategy.

To do this, you need to use a vacuum pump with manual control. You can buy one at most auto parts stores or online. The vacuum pump helps in troubleshooting emission systems. But if you don't want to buy a tool right now, your local service station will help you with this.

Follow the instructions that came with your vacuum pump for service instructions and a repair manual for your specific vehicle to learn how to troubleshoot the device you need to check.

Sometimes you need to troubleshoot a device under certain operating conditions or in combination with another tool. While this type of troubleshooting may seem complicated, you don't need any special training. However, you still need to follow the tool instructions and troubleshooting instructions in the repair manual.

Also follow these tips when using a vacuum pump:

• Make sure the connection between the pump and the device is tight - use a connector correct diameter or hose connection.
• Apply only the amount of vacuum required for the device under test (usually 10 to 15 VHg, refer to repair manual).
• The fewer connectors, adapters, and hoses you use to connect your hand pump to the device you want to test, the better.

You can use the nipple to repair small vacuum hose leaks.

Dealing with damaged vacuum hoses does not necessarily mean you need to replace them. Often the vacuum hose requires simple repair which may take a couple of minutes or so.

• You can repair a damaged end of a vacuum hose in a minute. In most cases, you can cut about a centimeter off the end and reattach the hose.
• Be careful when dealing with damage located between the ends of the vacuum hose. If you just need to repair a small hole less than half an inch, cut out the damaged area and use a nipple to reattach the two pieces.
• Repair one vacuum hose at a time to avoid confusion. Some cars, especially Asian brands, come with multiple vacuum hoses, which can make repairs difficult when they are connected in various ways. In these cases, you can find 1-, 2-, 3-, 4-pin and elbow connectors to handle just about any kind of hose routing and repair.
• Always label hoses and their respective connectors or fittings so that repaired or new hoses are reinstalled in the correct fittings.
• If you find one or more disconnected hoses, use the vacuum chart to reconnect the hose to the correct fitting.
• After repairs, route and secure the vacuum hose away from hot surfaces and moving parts.
• Always replace the vacuum hose with the same diameter and length for the intended application (PCV, brake booster or conventional vacuum).

Categories:// dated 13.09.2019