NISSAN LAUREL(Nissan Laurel) is a fairly popular model both in Japan and in the Far East of Russia. There are many more NISSAN LAURELs produced from 1989 to 1993 running around Vladivostok. We think the information below may be of interest to both the owners of these cars, and just all those who are interested in the history of the Japanese automotive industry.

First, I would like to give my own description of Laurel based on the operation of these machines in Russia. This model is direct TOYOTA competitor MARK II X80 (1988 - 92 onwards) and has a number of advantages and disadvantages in comparison with the latter.

Engines. Perhaps this is the strongest point of NISSAN LAUREL. All of them, with the exception of the lowest-powered CA18i, are straight-sixes, which means a long resource and a low level of engine vibration.

Two-liter gasoline RB20s are referred to as exceptionally reliable units that are in no way inferior to Toyota counterparts (rather even surpassing the latter in terms of reliability). On Laurel, the RB20 was already installed in three versions: simple, with two valves per cylinder RB20E (125 hp), more forced "twinkam" RB20DE (155 hp) and the most "fancy" turbocharged RB20DET (205 hp) .With.).

Diesel RD28 (2.8 l.) Is also a reliable unit, however, having one drawback inherent in diesel engines ( rapid wear fuel equipment on our fuel). In any case, this engine is better than the Toyota 2L-T that was installed on the MARK II. Compare:

2L-T: turbocharged diesel, displacement 2.45 liters, 4 cylinders.

RD28: naturally aspirated diesel, displacement 2.8 l, 6 cylinders.

In addition, the Toyota 2L-T quite often has problems with the cylinder head (bursts when the engine overheats), which is not the case with the RD28. Also, due to the fact that the Nissan unit has an in-line 6-cylinder layout, it runs much softer than the 2L-T. True, the 2L-T is more powerful by as much as 3 hp. (97 hp vs 94). Draw your own conclusions about which engine is better.

The "weakest" CA18i (displacement 1.8 liters, central injection) is not too successful. First of all, it's pretty weak engine(91 hp) for a fairly heavy rear-wheel drive car. Secondly, on most engines of the CA series, including the CA18i, two-circuit system ignition (two spark plugs per cylinder). Thanks to this system, the engine becomes more resistant to detonation, however, there are much more problems with such a system than with a conventional single-circuit one. But the engines of the CA series "digest" the 76th gasoline very well, although it is still not worth abusing driving on such fuel.

Since 1992 on Nissan Laurel, instead of CA18, they began to install a more powerful and reliable SR18.

Transmission. This model was equipped with three main types of transmissions:

Mechanical five-stage;

Automatic four-speed without electronic block management;

Automatic four and five-speed with an electronic control unit (E-AT);

The last type of transmission had 3 main modes of operation:

SPORT when the transmission is in a mode aimed at maximizing engine power output. Upshifts occur almost at maximum engine speed.

NORMAL, in this mode, the gearbox operates in normal mode, upshifts occur at an average speed (2500 - 3000 rpm). At hard pressing on the gas pedal, the transmission switches to SPORT mode.

HOLD, the mode is intended for movement on winter road. The movement starts from the second gear to avoid slipping.

All types of gearboxes installed on the Nissan Laurel are very reliable and do not cause problems with normal, timely maintenance. Interestingly, cars with RB20DET engines were equipped only automatic transmission With electronic control(E-AT).

Suspension. Nissan Laurel C33 can have 2 types of suspensions: simple, with conventional shock absorbers and suspension with adjustable stiffness (DUET-SS system). The latter was equipped only with the most "fancy" modification of the MEDALIST CLUB-L. This type of suspension is more "survivable" compared to a simple one, however, adjustable suspension struts are several times more expensive than usual.

As for the suspension design, these are the usual MacPherson struts in front, and a rather complex multi-link system is used in the back (its design can be seen in the figures below). In terms of reliability, the Laurel suspension is at an average level for Japanese cars. Most often, complaints were heard about the front suspension, because. Shock absorbers wear out fairly quickly.

Systems. Systems refer to various electronic devices improve safety and improve vehicle handling. I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that these systems were not installed on all Laurel modifications, but mainly on the most expensive MEDALIST CLUB.

HICAS-II is the brand name for the system, which is better known as 4WS (four wheel steering). The meaning of the operation of this system lies in the fact that not only the front wheels turn on the car, but also the rear wheels (by a smaller angle than the front ones) from the impact of the steering wheel. Thanks to the use of this system, the controllability of the car during skidding is improved and the safe speed of cornering is increased. In addition, the rear wheels can automatically steer when skidding, as soon as the HICAS-II electronic unit receives a signal that the rear wheels of the vehicle have side slip.

DUET-SS is the name of the suspension stiffness adjustment system. Machines equipped with this system have a suspension of a special design that allows you to adjust its stiffness both in manual and automatic modes. In automatic mode, this system is controlled by a special electronic unit connected to a special sensor that controls the speed and quality of the road surface. There are two modes of operation of such a suspension:

SPORT - the suspension is stiffer, which improves car handling, reduces roll in corners, but degrades ride smoothness.

COMFORT - the suspension works in a "soft" mode, the smoothness of the ride improves, any bumps in the road surface seem to be "swallowed", but the controllability deteriorates, the car's reactions to steering actions become more "sluggish".

4WAS is simply a "Nissan" name anti-lock braking system brakes (ABS). It makes no sense to describe this system separately, those who do not know the principle of operation can read here.

LSD - this is how NISSAN calls the viscous coupling in the rear differential, which is controlled by an electronic slip control unit. A system with such a device is often called an anti-slip or TRC system ( Traction control). The meaning of this system is as follows: if one of the drive wheels is stuck (it is on a slippery surface), then the system control unit, having received a slip signal, will block the cross-axle differential and the car will be able to continue moving due to the drive wheel, which has good grip. A more detailed TRC system can be read here.

Modifications. Nissan Laurel C33 has eight modifications with different levels of equipment (you can judge the level of their equipment from the figures below). The modifications were as follows (in decreasing order of "tricks"):

NISSAN LAUREL MEDALIST CLUB-L (RB20DET engine, DUET-SS, LSD and 4WAS systems, leather interior, CD player);

NISSAN LAUREL MEDALIST CLUB-S (RB20DET or RB20DE engine, HICAS-II, LSD and 4WAS systems (for RB20DET));

NISSAN LAUREL MEDALIST (RB20DET, RB20DE, RB20E or RD28 engines);

NISSAN LAUREL GRAND CRUISE (RB20E or RD28 engines);

NISSAN LAUREL GRAND SALOON (CA18i engine);

NISSAN LAUREL GRAND EXTRA (CA18i engine);

NISSAN LAUREL EXTRA (RD28 or CA18i engines);

And this is the FAQ, or, as it is called in Russia, FAK for Nissan Laurel. Here are answers to frequently asked questions from the category “no matter how much you don’t answer them, but they will still ask” :-) Most of the information came here from various forums on Nissan vehicles Laurel, including from ours:

1. Which timing drive in RB engines - a belt or a chain?
   RB engines use a timing belt drive, no chains!


2. What is NEO?
   NEO is an acronym for Nissan Ecological Oriented. Under this brand, the latest generation of RB engines were produced, which became more environmentally friendly. Contrary to popular misconception, the NEO designation has nothing to do with the system direct injection fuel that Russian motorists are so afraid of :-).


3. How can I find out if my RB is NEO or not?
   If you have a Laurel in the 35th body, then your engine is NEO. Well, in general, on these engines right on the decorative cover capital letters written: "NEO" :-).


4. Where on the RB engine is its number?
   The number is stamped on a special area on the block with right side(when looking at the engine from the front), behind the exhaust manifold, closer to the junction of the engine with the box.


5. What threatens the RB engine with a broken timing belt?
   Unfortunately, it won't come without consequences. Bent valves and guides.


6. Which timing belt is better to replace and what is its resource?
   Definitely, it is best to put the original Nissan belt. Its resource is 100,000 km. They are everywhere and are not so expensive.


7. What needs to be changed with timing belt?
   Together with the timing belt, two rollers are usually changed - tension and bypass. Change all other "nearby parts" at your discretion, depending on their condition. That is, no other devices (for example, a pump) need to be changed without fail!


8. The engine is “troit” (“four”, “five”, etc.) - what is the reason?
   In most cases - a malfunction of the ignition coils! At the very least, they are worth paying attention to in the first place. Coils are considered a “sore spot”: there are a lot of them (each candle has its own coil), and they are expensive :-).


9. In summer, when the air conditioner is on (especially in traffic jams), the engine starts to warm up, and the air conditioner turns off. From what?
   The air conditioner turns off automatically just because the engine temperature begins to increase (thus, the cunning Japanese automation tries to reduce the load on the engine). But overheating of the engine can occur due to the contamination of the radiators with insects, fluff, etc. rubbish (unless, of course, the viscous coupling and cooling system are working). Radiators must be periodically cleaned (blowed, washed). These issues are discussed by laurel breeders and.


10. What candles to put in RB?
    "Native" candles - platinum, manufactured by NGK, marking PFR5G-11. In general, you can put simple candles, and iridium, and platinum-iridium - who is good for what and who does not mind the money :-).


11. The RB engine eats a lot of gasoline - is it like that for everyone, or just me?
    Yes, RB engines are known for their appetite :-) If your consumption in the summer is about 14 — 15 l / 100 km, then this is practically “standard” :-). That is, you should not sound the alarm and take any urgent measures - the situation is unlikely to improve.


12. The arrow on the fuel level indicator in the gas tank goes down too quickly, is it really such a frantic consumption?
    Don't worry :-) Unfortunately, this problem is inherent in most Laurels. Almost all owners note the fact that the fuel level sensor in the gas tank cannot be trusted - it is lying shamelessly!


13. What kind of oil to pour in Belarus?
    Only good :-) There is no definite answer. Recommended by the manufacturer - 5W-30. But in practice, laurel growers pour different oils- both by viscosity (5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 10W-40) and by base (synthetics, semi-synthetics), and by manufacturer. And, it seems, everyone is happy :-).


14. How much oil can fit in a Laurel engine?
    Approximately 4.2 liters. In any case, buy a five-liter canister, a four-liter one will not be enough!


15. What kind of liquid to pour into automatic box?
    Theoretically, the box will run on any Dexron III grade fluid. However, the best option than the original Nissan ATF Matic Fluid D, you can hardly think of it!


16. How much fluid do you need to replace?
    The total volume of slurry in the box is about 8 liters. However, if you change by the usual "drain method", then you can change no more than 4 liters.


17. Gear shifting in automatic transmission (especially from 1st to 2nd) is noticeable, a slight push is felt. This is fine?
    Yes, almost everyone has a slight push when shifting gears in an automatic transmission. Apparently, this is the norm. Some argue that with a slightly high level of slurry in the automatic transmission, such shocks are felt weaker. But this is their personal opinion.


18. Why do we need Power and Snow modes, the power button of which is located next to the automatic transmission lever? Should the operation indicators of these modes be lit?
    The indicators on the button itself should be lit. If they don’t glow, and, moreover, you don’t see the difference in the modes (read the logic of operation below), then remove the trim around the automatic transmission lever, perhaps you just don’t have a button chip connected.
    Now about the logic of work:
    "Power" mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at higher speeds (than in normal mode, specific speeds depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); thus, the maximum power and torque of the engine, faster acceleration, etc. are selected.
    Snow mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at lower revs (again, than in normal mode, specific revs depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); this eliminates the slipping of the drive wheels, caused by an excessively large torque applied to the drive wheels. Also in the "Snow" mode, the movement of the car starts from the second gear, for the same reasons (an attempt to reduce wheel slip). Designed mainly for driving in winter, on snowy / slippery roads. You can also use this mode to save fuel, but do not forget that in this mode the car starts to "stupid" (this is just facilitated by starting from second gear (which is quite difficult in itself) and shifting to a higher gear when low revs crankshaft(maximum power is not produced)).
    And here are more patterns (templates) of gear shifting at different positions of the automatic transmission mode button at different degrees of pressing the accelerator pedal (in all graphs, the lever is in the “D” position, “Overdrive” is on)


19. When starting the engine, the fan is very noisy - is this normal?
    Yes, it is normal. The fan starts very noisy, but it lasts just a few seconds, after which it goes into normal operation.


20. The fan runs all the time - does everyone have it?
    Yes, our Laurels do not have an electric fan, but a fan with a viscous coupling. It rotates at different speeds, but is constantly in motion.


21. Is it possible to supply gas-cylinder equipment for the RB engine?
    Can! With good equipment of the latest generation (with distributed injection), the engine works perfectly, even in power it does not lose at all. The only “but”: such equipment is quite expensive, so think about whether you need it specifically?


22. Where is the Consult diagnostic connector in the Laurel C35 and what is it for?
    The Consalt diagnostic connector is located below the steering wheel, slightly to the left of the hood release lever. It is hidden under the lid, and falls out if this lid is pryed with something. From the name it is clear that the connector is necessary for car diagnostics. In particular, the VCons diagnostic computer can be connected to it. In addition, the connector is used for self-diagnosis.


23. Where is the factory antenna located on the Laurel C35?
    The standard antenna is located at the top and bottom rear window in the form of glued strips. Outwardly, they look like glass heating strips, but they don’t heat a damn thing :-) The antenna amplifier (such a special metal box :-)) is hidden under the decorative trim of the left rear pillar.


24. Where are the fuses in Laurel and which are responsible for what?
    There are two blocks with fuses and relays in Laurels: one is under the hood, the second is in the cabin, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe driver's right leg. In the engine compartment, the affiliation of the fuses and relays is indicated in English, there you can still somehow figure it out :-) In the cabin block, all the designations are in Japanese, which means you can figure out where they are without the help of a dick. In general, look here: Fuses in the cabin C33 (RB20E), Fuses in the cabin C35 (RB20DE Neo)


25. Where are the cabin filters located on the Laurel C35?
    cabin filters always hiding from us in the same place - behind the glove box. They are easy enough to change!


26. On the dashboard while driving, the “slip” indicator lights up - what does this mean?
    The presence of this indicator is a privilege of all-wheel drive Laurels. While driving, the Slip notifies you of a slip that is occurring at that moment or an incipient skid.


27. What standard speakers are installed in the rear shelf of the 35th body and how to get to them?
    The standard speakers in the rear shelf are round Clarion, 16 cm in size. To get to them, you need to remove the entire rear sofa (unscrew only four bolts - two by 12 and two by 10), then decorative trims on rear racks(they just gently unfasten around the perimeter, because they are held exclusively on clips), then - a brake light, and then - a regular plastic-woolen :-) shelf (also unfastened). The speakers themselves are bolted to the metal shelf with four 10 bolts.


28. What should I do if the RB engine does not start after washing?
    It happens. There is only one reason - during the washing process, water enters different hidden places and remains there. Look for it first here:
    1. Trambler. You take off the slider and the cover under it. There is an optical system there, it needs to be blown through.
    2. Candle wells. They often accumulate water.
    3. Injector connectors. They are oriented upwards, and the water does not even evaporate there.


29. How to change the brushes on the wipers if they do not rise ?!
    Firstly, opening the hood cover does not solve the problem - the wipers still will not rise :-). Secondly, the easiest solution is to turn on the wipers and then turn off the ignition at the moment when the wipers are at the top. Done - now you can change the brushes.


30. What settings rims on Laurel?
    PSD - 5x114.3, CO - 66.1 mm, reach - 40 mm, width - 15x6JJ or 16x7JJ


31. What values regular tires And pressure in them?
    For 15" wheels: 195/65 R15 or 205/60 R15 91S or 91H; pressure 2.0 atm. in all.
    For 16-inch wheels: dimension 205/55 R16 89V, pressure 2.0 atm. in the front, 2.2 atm. in the rear.
    Japanese tire rating plate
    Another plate (from the manual on the C35)


32. What is a front brace, what does it look like and why is it needed?
    The front strut is a metal stick :), installed under the hood between the strut mounts. This is how the spacers on the 35 Lavra look like:
    Example #1, Example #2
    Attention - spacers for all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive Laurel differ in fastenings(various hole patterns)!
    In a quote from one of the automotive sites (forgive the author, it is not known from which one) the purpose of this item is explained: “Installing a spacer is an indispensable element of perfomance tuning. All without exception sports cars equipped with spacer. A car with a strut has better handling and easier cornering. After installing the strut, the car reacts more precisely and faster to turning the steering wheel. Improved handling is achieved by "linking" the upper parts of the suspension struts, which in the standard state are connected only from below by a stabilizer roll stability, and remain relatively “free” from above. Therefore, when cornering, the suspension struts “walk” a little, as a result of which the reactions of the car to turning the steering wheel become less clear and more “smeared”. The strut, on the other hand, allows you to correct this drawback of the standard suspension. The strut is also an important element. passive safety, increasing the rigidity of the body and creating an additional obstacle to the deformation of the engine shield during a frontal impact.
    Installation of spacers on Laurel is actively discussed on our forum.

The section continues to grow!

The technical condition of the chassis affects the comfort of the trip and, most importantly, the safety of passengers, the driver and other road users. Hub front wheel- the most important element of the suspension, on which the handling and stopping distance of the car depends. If the wheel bearing fails and jams, the car will suddenly change course, which will provoke an accident. If parts break, the wheel can simply fall off.

Therefore, it is necessary to regularly monitor the technical condition of this unit and carry out its maintenance and repair. To do this, you need to know the design of the hub and the signs by which you can identify the malfunction at an early stage.

Purpose

The front wheel hub performs three important functions:

• Ensuring a movable and reliable connection of the axle shaft with the rim.
• Hold the brake disc or drum to ensure effective braking of the vehicle.
• Transfer of torque from the CV joint (constant velocity joint) to the drive wheel (relevant for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles). To do this, splines are applied on the inner surface of the hub, which enter the axle shaft. That is, the front wheel hubs act as parts of the transmission and allow the vehicle to move.

AT modern cars, stuffed with electronics, sensors are installed in the hubs that ensure the operation of anti-slip, anti-lock and other systems that need to control the rotation of the wheels and the behavior of the car on the road.

Device

With such high functionality, the front wheel hub has a very simple device. It consists of four main parts:

• Hub body. This is a round monolithic part that has been turned. It is made of a hard high-strength alloy capable of withstanding high dynamic and static loads.
• Wheel studs are used to fasten rim. often instead of them there are threaded holes for mounting bolts.
• Bearings that are put on the axial shaft and ensure the rotation of the hub.
• Motion sensors connected to on-board computer or brake control unit (optional).

Most manufacturers provide for the replacement of all hub parts in the kit (often this also applies to sensors). This was done in order to ensure safety and negate the slightest chance of a critical unit breaking down while driving.

Causes of breakage of hub parts

The most unreliable part that is subject to wear and tear is the hub bearing. It is the only moving part whose wear resistance is ensured by High Quality material and lubricant. Thanks to this, in normal operation, it serves up to the mark of 100 thousand kilometers or more.

Given the condition of our roads, this service life can be drastically reduced. This happens for the following reasons:

• Blows due to the wheel getting into the pits on high speed. The resulting dynamic loads first of all act on the bearings and only after them on the rest of the suspension parts.
• Loss or contamination of lubricant. If the anthers are damaged, the grease from the inside of the bearing is washed out, and the part becomes clogged with dirt and requires urgent replacement.
• Incorrect tightening when replacing or servicing. An overtightened bearing will overheat and fail. A weak tightening torque causes backlash and intensive wear of the part.
• Errors when pressing the bearing during replacement. Misalignment and damage greatly reduce the life of the part. Therefore, you need to trust the replacement only to experienced locksmiths with a good reputation.

Breakage (deformation) of the hub itself can occur only as a result of strong impacts on the edges of road pits or an accident.

To extend the life of the node, you need to monitor the condition of the anthers and drive carefully, avoiding pits and slowing down in front of them.

Signs of a bad front wheel hub

The main sign of problems with a wheel bearing is the appearance of a characteristic crunch or hum during movement. vehicle. With a large backlash, the picture may be supplemented by a knock when the steering wheel is turned.

Wheel bearing wear or deformation of the hub body leads to the appearance of vibration, which is given to the steering wheel or car body.

Wedging of one of the bearings leads to the removal of the car from the path. In this case, you need to change the part immediately to avoid a serious accident. Wedging and overtightening can be identified by intense heating of the wheel.

Another possible sign of a problem is uneven or heavy tire wear.

Important: the above symptoms do not necessarily occur precisely due to a malfunction of the hub. However, they are a mandatory reason to check this detail.

To make sure the bearing is in good condition, you should do the following operations:

• put the car on the "handbrake";
• jack up the front wheel and shake in a vertical plane;
• spin the wheel by hand.

If there is play, knocking or noise, the wheel bearing must be replaced. Pay attention to the nature of the play or knock. If they disappear when the brake is pressed - the reason is in the bearing, otherwise - in the ball bearings or steering rods.

Wheel bearing adjustment

To carry out the work you will need:

• jack;
• balloon key;
• torque wrench;
• strong screwdriver;
• chisel;
• a hammer;
• a set of socket wrenches, including large ones (for 32 or more).

To adjust the wheel bearing, follow these steps:

• jack up the wheel;
• unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the wheel;
• remove the protective cap of the bearing assembly using a chisel with a hammer;
• put the wheel in place, securing it with two bolts;
• straighten the shoulder of the hub nut and unscrew it with a socket wrench (usually 27);
• replace the nut with a new one and tighten with a force of 20 N * m (a more accurate figure can be found in the repair instructions for a specific car model);

Tip: While tightening the nut, you need to slightly rotate the wheel in the direction of the car to calibrate the bearing.

Certainly from technical condition Details of the car’s running gear depend not only on comfortable driving, but also on the safety of the driver, passengers and other road users. The most important element in the design of the chassis of any car is the front wheel hub. This node performs a fairly large set of functions. In the event of a breakdown, the car cannot move.

Every motorist is obliged to regularly check the condition of the hubs, carry out Maintenance, timely contact the service to eliminate even the most minor deviations from the norm. Accordingly, in order to control, you need to know what to control. Actually, this is the answer to the puzzled question of many modern car owners: why do I need to know the structure of the wheel hubs?

What are front wheel hubs used for?

It does not require special knowledge in the design of cars to understand that the purpose of any hub is to provide the ability to rotate the wheel, provided that it is securely fixed to the axle (half shaft). A wheel disk is screwed onto the hub, and it itself has a bearing (or a pair of bearings) due to which it rotates.

Front wheel hub functions:

• So, the main task that the front wheel hubs must perform is a reliable movable connection and axle shafts knuckle.
• Ensuring the possibility of braking is the second function of the part. Safe driving is possible only if there is a reliable brake system. or the drum is also fixed on the front wheel hub.
• The front hub is the most important element for front-wheel drive vehicles, since rotational motion is transmitted to the wheel from the axle shaft (constant velocity joints) through it. To do this, the inner hole has slots into which the end of the axle shaft enters. Thus, the third task of the hub is to enable the car to move if the drive falls on the front wheels.

A modern car is a whole system of electronic sensors that allow you to continuously receive a lot of information and provide safe driving and car traffic. Hubs also play their role in this process. In particular, they install sensors that ensure the operation of anti-lock, anti-slip and some other systems.

How is the front wheel hub arranged?

Oddly enough, but with such a rich functionality, the hub has a fairly simple device. The main parts of the knot are:

• hub body;
• wheel studs;
• sensors.

The body of the hubs is a solid alloy part that has been turned. The hub should be considered as a single complex with studs and bearings, since often, as a rule, for the bulk of manufacturers, they are inseparable from each other and change only as a set. In this way, manufacturers ensure maximum safety and reliability of this node. running system car.

Hub failures and methods for their elimination

Determining a front wheel hub failure is quite simple. The only part that is subject to active wear is the bearing. Having suspended the wheel on the jack, it is necessary to pull it with both hands in different planes. The appearance of play indicates the need for repair.

If the hub has a pair of tapered bearings, as, for example, on classic VAZ cars, then you can try to adjust the backlash using the hub nut. In such hubs, with maximum wear, the bearings are simply replaced with new ones. Foreign-made cars and domestic novelties may have hubs with bearings that cannot be removed. In this case, the entire hub assembly is changed.

The front wheel hub is a vehicle undercarriage assembly that performs several functions. The driver needs to know not only how to change the low beam bulb, but also how to troubleshoot such a hub. If this part fails, the vehicle will not be able to move.

To prevent this, the driver must regularly check the condition of the hubs, organize maintenance of the car, and also contact a special service in a timely manner to eliminate even the most minor breakdowns of the part. To independently check the operation of the hub, you need to know the features of the device and the functional purpose of the element.

To understand what a hub is, it is worth understanding its main functional purpose. To do this, it is absolutely not necessary to have special knowledge in the general structure of vehicles.

The hub is a special part that allows the wheel to rotate. To do this, it must be as securely fixed to the axle shaft as possible. A disk is screwed onto the hub, and in its design itself there is a pair of rotating bearings. There are a lot of functions for this structural element. Here are the most basic ones.

1. The main task of the hub is a movable and at the same time reliable connection of the wheel disc on the axis of the steering knuckle.
2. Ensuring high-quality braking and reliability of the entire braking system as a whole. The reason is that the brake disc is also fixed to the hub.
3. AT front wheel drive vehicles the hub transmits rotational motion to the wheels in the direction from the axle shaft. For this purpose, a special internal hole with slots inside is intended, where one end of the axle shaft enters during movement. This allows the car to move freely on the track.

A modern car has a whole system of electronic sensors that allow you to constantly receive a huge amount of information and provide maximum safe movement cars. The front wheel hub plays an important role in this complex process.

The device of the front wheel hub must be known to detect and eliminate possible faults. With a relatively complex functional purpose, the element has a fairly simple internal structure. Among the main parts of this node can be noted:

• hub body;
• bearings;
• wheel studs;
• special sensors.

The hub housing is a solid cast part made of a special alloy and machined by turning tools.

This element must be considered as a single complex with bearings and studs. For the bulk of manufacturers, these elements are only included in the kit, they are inseparable from each other.

Such solidity is able to provide the maximum level of reliability and safety of the entire undercarriage of the vehicle.

Signs of a malfunction in the hub

The driver will be able to identify certain malfunctions in the operation of the vehicle's running system, based on such characteristic features as:

• uneven wear of installed tire treads;
• significant swaying of the body during standard braking or turning;
• frequently repeated deviation of the car from the rectilinear direction;
• compression and leakage of shock absorbers;
• high level of vibration produced;
• the appearance of various extraneous sounds that constantly accompany the movement of the machine.

Despite the clear audibility of extraneous sounds, the driver will not be able to determine by ear in which part of the element a problem has occurred.

If a suspicious sound is detected, immediately raise the vehicle on a jack and try to manually rotate the front wheels.

When performing this manipulation, you should carefully study appearance wheels. One of the most common manifestations of hub failure is increased rubber wear. This is caused by a strong vibration giving off to the steering wheel, with simultaneous heating of the brake disc, which occurs due to an incorrectly rotating bearing.

The heating of the disk can be felt by simply placing a hand on it after 8 - 10 km have been covered. If the hub is faulty, the temperature of this element exceeds 70 degrees.

Similar signs can be characterized by such a phenomenon as the failure of the hub bearings.

To determine on which side the hub broke, it is not necessary to stop and raise the car. It will be enough to pay attention to the degree of the rumble produced in the process of turning the steering wheel. When turning to the right, the hum will be amplified in the left wheel, when turning to the left, the sound will come from the right side.

There are many reasons for the failure of the hub. Among the most common causes of failure, the following common factors can be noted:

1. Wear individual elements systems.
2. Errors in wheel alignment adjustment.
3. Incorrect mounting of shock absorbers.
4. Strong long-term loads on the front wheels.

Since there may be several breakdowns, it will be quite difficult to determine the exact cause. However, it is simply impossible not to notice it. Without exception, all faults are very noticeable. It is impossible to ignore the appeared constant noise or hum, the degree of intensity of which varies in direct proportion to speed limit or on the strength of the braking force.

If these problems occur, it is urgent to repair the front wheel hub. Depending on the complexity of the situation, repair work may involve a simple adjustment of the mounting of bearings, bolts or nuts. In other cases, you may need complete replacement hubs, when you cannot do without the help of professionals.

independently hold repair work is possible only with certain knowledge and special tools. See below for repair instructions. It is told how to check the fastening, how to replace the special swivel cap.

Repair and replacement of the hub

When carrying out a process such as replacing the front wheel hub, Special attention devoted to preparatory work.

First of all, you need to prepare the necessary tools for this. In most cases, the usual set of special wrenches with heads is sufficient. At the same time, you need to prepare the following tools.

1. Retaining ring puller.
2. Special cup puller.
3. Vice.
4. Screwdrivers.
5. Jack.
6. Chisel.
7. Hammers.

As an addition to the jack, it is worth preparing special devices for fixing the car in a stable position. It can be all possible bars and props. You will also need to purchase new parts if a replacement is carried out. You need to buy the whole set of hubs or bearings, it all depends on the degree of wear.

Machine preparation

After carrying out the preparatory work, collecting all necessary tools and materials, you can begin to replace the failed elements.

It is necessary to “jack up” the car in the right direction, depending on which side the replacement will be carried out from. To provide additional insurance it is recommended to install special supports, for example, place automobile anti-roll supports under the rear wheels.

Next, the first gear is set at the checkpoint, if it is a mechanic, the car is put on the handbrake. Using a special wrench, the wheel bolts and the bearing hub nut are unscrewed. If the wheels of the car are light alloy, the wheel will have to be removed, then apply the brake and completely unscrew the hub nut.

Quite often, drivers are faced with a situation where the hub nut is very tight and cannot be removed with a wrench. In this case, the method of drilling through one side of the nut that is stuck can be used. This will allow the edge of the part to be drilled all the way to the thread. Then it remains to open the part with a blunt chisel and unscrew it easily and simply.

After performing such measures, you will need to remove the front wheel and remove the protective cap with a screwdriver (read more about). Next, the caliper is removed from the brake disc and removed to the side. For this purpose, the drum together with the rack must be turned towards itself and the fasteners unscrewed. After that, the steering wheels are removed, ball joints and tips.

Before starting such work, parts should be treated with a special substance designed to remove rust. This will greatly facilitate the operation associated with unscrewing the bolts and nuts.

To remove the brake disc, you will need to unscrew the two bolts built into the hub and then do the same with the nut located in the center. This can be done with a key or a chisel, it all depends on how tightly the part is screwed. Once the rack is completely unscrewed, you can get the hub and start repair work.

Three repair options

In most cases, one of the wheel bearings fails, so the main repair work will be based on replacing it. There can be three main ways and options for action:

1. The first method is based on replacing the part using a puller, but the steering knuckle is not removed.
2. The second option will require its dismantling, after which the bearing will be changed on the installed workbench.
3. The third method involves removing the entire rack. The bearing is replaced using a vise.

Each of the options has its positive and negative sides.

The positive side of using the first option is that there is no need to remove the adjustment bolt for a system such as camber. At the same time, the entire workflow will not be very convenient, especially if there is no lift and a special pit. For this reason, knocking out the hub and completely pressing the bearing will be quite difficult.

It will be much easier and easier to replace using the second method. But here there is a risk of violating the adjustment of the camber of the vehicle. In this case, before unscrewing the steering knuckle bolts, it will be necessary to note its initial position in the rack and at the same time pay attention to the position of the bolt that performs the adjusting function. This will help to avoid errors and errors during reassembly.

The second replacement option is ideal for those who are engaged not only in changing the bearing, but also in all running gear elements - steering tips, ball bearings and silent blocks.

by the most difficult option replacement is the third way. Here, to remove the rack, you will need to completely press out the steering tip and unscrew the fastening of the upper support. After that, it will be possible to replace the failed element.

In the process of replacing, you need to pay attention to the extraction / knocking out of the hub and its parts. These activities must be carried out very carefully. This will avoid any damage to the socket and common device mechanism. If the part cannot be reached by hand, the work can be done on a special pressing machine. In this case, you need to try to leave the installed snap ring intact, which is not always included with the new hub.

In the process of dismantling the bearing, you should not count on the fact that it will remain intact. These elements are almost always destroyed. This must be taken into account.

Conclusion

After installing a new part, the entire structure must be assembled following the instructions above, but in reverse order. After the work done, you must definitely visit the nearby service station. Professionals should make the alignment of the car's wheels, because after removing the steering rod, if it was carried out, the previous settings are sure to go astray.

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