If you are reading this article, then heating rear window, of course, is an indispensable function of your car for you. However, for decades, drivers have been forced to drive without heated rear windows. Of the thermal functions of the glass of the car, there was only the very warm air that blew from the ventilation holes at the base of the windshield, but this, of course, was not enough for such air to dry and warm the rear window at the rear end of the cabin. However, if you had children, you could give them some cloth and give them orders to keep the rear window always clean, but, you see, this is not a very welcoming prospect!

Then there was this curious grid of wiring threads on the rear window. button on dashboard turns on the system, and right before your eyes, the fog (condensate) on it will disappear. Soon such a defroster became standard on the rear windows of most cars, and today almost all cars are equipped with heated rear windows.

But, unfortunately, like everything else in your car, heating is also prone to breakdowns. And if this happens, then the first step that should always be taken when troubleshooting is to find out why the heated rear window is not working before proceeding with one or another more specific and thorough method of diagnosis or repair.

Rear window heating thread repair

So, rear window heating repair should start with finding a good heating repair kit, which, in general, is very primitive and consists of a directly conductive agent (glue, varnish, etc.) and a brush for applying it (sometimes included there may be adhesive tape or tape for the border of applying glue.Such a set is sold in almost any car shop, and when buying, you should pay attention to its color - it should be yellow-red, mustard or red - most often it is these repair tools that are of the highest quality and In any case, you'd better choose an adhesive that is the same color as the one applied to your rear window.

Secondly, the price of a kit for repairing rear window filaments should be at least 300-400 rubles - this is just the case when the quality is highly dependent on the cost.

Good afternoon. Today we will talk about how to repair the heated rear window. Traditionally for our site, the article contains a lot of photos and videos and is step by step algorithm troubleshooting.

How does glass heating work?

I think everyone remembers physics from a high school course. When an electric current flows through a conductor, it heats up. It is on this principle that the heated rear window works.

If you look closely at the glass, you will see contacts and current-carrying wires from the sides.

When a voltage is applied to these terminals, an electric current flows through the heating filaments and heats the glass, due to which it.

Accordingly, glass heating does not work in only two cases:

• defective heating filaments
• no voltage at the terminals

How to repair heating if one or more heating threads are faulty?

This error looks like this:

For repairs we need:

• sandpaper with a number from 1500 to 2500, 1 sheet with any grit. It is needed to remove oxides and varnish from damaged threads.
• alcohol, preferably isopropyl (we will use it to wipe the glass from dust and degrease damage)
• napkins, microfiber, cotton swabs or rags (for wiping).
• electrically conductive adhesive, it is not always available in stores, so if you are ready to wait, I recommend ordering it directly in China (we will use it to restore damaged threads).

Repair procedure:

we carefully examine the faulty heating threads and look for damage, they usually look like this:

We carefully clean the places of damage with sandpaper, trying not to touch the glass, we clean only the heating threads themselves, and then next to the damage. If you rub the glass itself with sandpaper, it will become dull, but it will not come out, since heating threads are applied to it.

We wipe the cleaned surfaces with alcohol using a cotton swab. At the same time, we will remove the dust from the sandpaper and degrease the surface.

Gently apply electrically conductive glue to the damaged areas. In order to apply the glue directly, and not as a stain, it is better to use electrical tape or masking tape. As shown in the video at the end of the article.

Apply electrically conductive adhesive with a brush.

We wait for the glue to dry, check, make sure that everything works and enjoy the money saved ....

What if the heating does not work at all?

If the heating does not work at all, two options are possible. Or all the heating threads are faulty (this is unlikely, even on machines that are 30-40 years old, one or two threads heat) ... Or the wiring is faulty.

A person without special education can only check 3 things:

The location of these items can be found in the owner's manual for your vehicle.

If, after checking, by replacing, the heating has not worked for you, it is better to contact an electrician at a service station. service.

How to repair heating if the windows are tinted?

I do not want to upset you, but most likely the answer is no! Since in order to apply an electrically conductive adhesive, you will have to remove the tint locally (locally) anyway. I'm not sure that it is possible to cut a piece of tinting only from a damaged thread. In any case, an ugly hole will turn out in tinting ....

Therefore, if you need to repair one or more heating filaments on tinted glass, the tinting, unfortunately, will have to be removed.

Conclusion.

As you can see, repairing glass heating is not difficult, of course, if you have the proper accuracy and desire.

Obviously, the easiest option is not to repair the threads, but to replace the glass, but think about how, because if the buyer sees the glass different years release, then at least they will tell you that the car was a bit.

That's all I have today. I hope that you have no questions left about how to repair the heated rear window. If you have any questions, or if you want to supplement the article, write comments.

V winter period on vehicles where the air conditioning does not perform well, the rear defroster is a real lifesaver. It is extremely irresponsible to drive a car without being able to assess the situation from behind, and it is not recommended to go to parking lots with ice on the rear window. Some drivers use a scraper to remove frost, but most car models have a rear window defroster that can eliminate the frost problem.

The rear window defroster is a very simple device that consists of a series of horizontal lines of electrically conductive material applied directly to the glass. Near the side edges of the glass, vertical lines-conductors approach the filaments, through which the current flows to the conductive material. The simple design of the rear window defroster suggests that not many reasons can lead to its failure. Below we will list the main reasons why the device may not work, as well as ways to repair the rear window defroster.

One of the most common problems with this car component is broken threads. It is enough to slightly touch thin electrically conductive threads for a break to occur, and this will cause the rear window defroster to cease to perform its functions. Most often, problem areas are diagnosed visually.

If no visible broken wires in the rear window defroster can be found, diagnostic tools can be used to troubleshoot. Get a multimeter and use it to measure the voltage at all sections of each thread. For example, 5 conditional control points are taken on each thread. The negative probe of the multimeter is connected to ground, and the positive one is connected to the test points of each thread. Moving the measuring probe from one end of the thread to the other, a voltage drop from 12 to 0 volts should be observed on the device. If at one of the control points the voltage is higher or lower than normal, then you should take a closer look at this area, since there is an open circuit on it.

Attention: Apply a sharp probe to the heater threads carefully so as not to cause new damage.

Repair. A motorist can easily fix such a malfunction on their own. Automotive stores sell a special kit designed to restore the design of the rear window defroster. The kit includes a stencil, conductive glue and a brush. The stencil is glued on both sides of the damaged area, after which a conductive adhesive is applied to the problem area. Next, you need to wait until the composition dries (about 30 minutes) and remove the stencil.

Blown fuse for rear window defroster

If any electrical appliance on the car stopped working, the first step is necessary. A temporary surge in current in the car's on-board circuit or a more serious malfunction can lead to a fuse failure.

Repair. First, just try to change the fuse and use the device in normal mode. If the problem persists and the element fails again, identify and fix it.

The rear window defroster may stop working properly due to oxidation of the contact directly bonded to the glass. To detect this malfunction, it is necessary to measure the voltage of the supply wire and make sure that it exceeds 11 volts.

Repair. If, as a result of measurements, a value of less than 11 Volts was obtained, it is necessary to clean the contact from the resulting oxidation. To clean the contact, you can use fine-grained sandpaper or a special tool that removes rust.

Other malfunctions of the rear window heater

If all the diagnostic procedures described above are carried out, but the problem is not found, then the rear window defroster is not working due to a broken wiring or failure of the power button. It is recommended that you first deal with possible problems in the button, and if they are not detected, you will have to diagnose a wire break.

A good overview is essential for safe operation car. V autumn-winter period Changes in air temperature cause the windows to fog up, and visibility through them deteriorates. The issue of glass transparency is especially relevant at night, when visibility is already poor.

An effective way to combat fogging of car windows is to heat them. Windshield, as a rule, is heated by directed flows of warm air. The rear window and rear-view mirrors are usually electrically heated. Conductive tracks made of high-resistance metal in the form of thin ribbons are applied to the glass surface from the side of the car interior. When an electric current passes through them, heat energy is released. The glass heats up and the water evaporates. After a few minutes the glass becomes transparent.

Heater Wiring Diagram

For successful diagnostics and repair of the rear window heating system of a car at a professional level, it is necessary to know the electrical circuit for connecting the heater and to understand the principle of its operation.

The photo shows typical scheme connecting the heater of the rear window of the car to the on-board electrical wiring. Consider the principle of its work.

The supply voltage from the positive terminal of the battery through the ignition switch and the fuses is supplied to the heater switch and to the 30 (or 87) relay power contact. The negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body of the car, one of the terminals of the glass heater is also connected to the body. When you press the heater on button, voltage is applied to the relay winding, the relay is activated, the power contacts close and connect the relay outputs 30 and 87 to each other. The current enters the heater, flows through a group of parallel-connected filaments, and returns through the car body to the negative terminal of the battery.

Rear window heater malfunctions

The operation of the rear window heater is not paid attention until the glass is fogged up or covered with frost. After turning on the heater, it is suddenly discovered that after a few minutes the glass has not become transparent or visibility has appeared only through part of the glass. Depending on the external manifestation, even without measuring instruments, one can immediately make an assumption about the cause of the failure.

Please note that the heater of the rear window and rear-view mirrors of the car can only be turned on when the ignition key is in the ON position. In some car models, turning on the heater is possible only when running engine. This is done to prevent a strong discharge of the battery, since the rear window defroster, depending on the model of the car, consumes current from 10 A to 25 A. For comparison, one car headlight consumes only 5 A.

The heater does not turn on

If the indicator on the button for turning on the heated rear window does not light up after pressing it, then the fuse is most likely blown or the key itself is faulty. If the indicator is on, but not a single thread heats up, then the relay or connectors for connecting the heater to the wiring may be the cause of the malfunction. In this case, according to the documentation for a specific car model, it is necessary to determine the location of these parts and replace the failed one. It is not always possible to quickly find the installation location of the relay, but there is a way to check its serviceability indirectly, which will be discussed below.

Glass slowly fogs up

Sometimes there is a case when, after turning on the heater, the glass fogs up in a time much longer than a few minutes. In this case, if it is not very cold outside, the reason may lie in the poor contact of one of the connectors electrical circuit. As a result, the contact resistance increases, the current is limited, and as a result, the power released on the glass heater filaments decreases. To check for such a malfunction, you need a voltmeter direct current(with a multimeter or pointer tester switched on in the DC voltage measurement mode) measure the voltage at the input terminals of the heater and battery. Voltages should not differ by more than one volt.

Horizontal streaks of fog remain on the glass

And finally, the most common case of a malfunction of the rear window heating system of a car is a break in one or more heater threads applied directly to the glass. This type of malfunction is immediately visible by the horizontal band of remaining mist on the glass after turning on the heater.

The conductive tracks on the rear window have low mechanical strength and are easily destroyed when exposed to them. Therefore, it is forbidden to remove frost and ice from the glass with a scraper. Only wiping with a soft cloth is allowed. It is also necessary to ensure that when transporting long items they do not rest against the rear window. As a rule, individual heater filaments stop working as a result of their accidental mechanical failure. In the area of ​​the damaged thread, after turning on the heating, there are streaks of fogging or frost.

When renovating an apartment, I was transporting floor skirting boards in my car and did not notice how one of them rested on the rear window. After a while, when it took to warm the rear window, I saw the result of my inattention. Two heater strips passing through the middle of the glass did not heat, which significantly worsened the view of the road. During visual inspection, one gap about 1 mm wide was found on non-working strips, as in the photograph. The question arose about the need to repair the rear window defroster.

How to find the place where the glass heating thread breaks

It is not difficult to determine which thread of the heater in the breakage, since in the zone of its passage, fogging does not disappear during the operation of the heater. Therefore, in order to make it easy to find a faulty thread during repairs, it is advisable to count the threads from top to bottom and remember which one is broken by number, so that later by visual inspection you can try to find the place of its damage. But the thread break is so small that it cannot be visually found. Then a DC voltmeter, ohmmeter or voltage indicator will help in the search. To quickly find the fault in the heating element, you need to understand how it works and works.

The device of the heating element of the glass heating system

The question is logical, why does it happen that only one or several threads in the heater do not work, while the rest work? To get an answer to this question, you need to familiarize yourself with the device of the heating element.

The heating element of the rear window of the car is arranged as follows. Two conductive tires 1 and 2 are applied on the sides of the rear window. Threads of high-resistance material are connected to these tires. Each of the threads has a resistance of about 10 ohms. The number of threads depends on the height of the glass. Thus, each thread is a separate heating element, the operation of which is independent of the others. The scheme of parallel connection of heating elements is applied. Such a circuit design provides high operational reliability of the heater, since the breakage of one or more threads does not lead to a complete cessation of its operation.

Finding a break in the heater filament with a voltmeter

To work, you need any DC voltmeter with a measurement limit of 15 V. Any pointer tester or digital multimeter is suitable as a voltmeter. Before starting work, turn on the heater.

Since one of the heating element rails is connected to the car body, the negative terminal of the voltmeter can be connected to the car body, any screw or bolt screwed directly into the car body will do. It is most convenient to attach to the trunk lid lock bracket with a crocodile clip.

Since it is difficult to find out visually with transparent glass whether the heater is heating, touching the positive probe of the voltmeter to bus 1, and then to bus 2, you will immediately understand this. Bus 1 should be +12 V, and bus 2 should be 0 V. It is possible that the left bus in your car will be connected to ground, and the right bus will be supplied with power. If there is no access to the tires, then measurements can be taken by touching the probe to any of the threads at the junctions with the tires, that is, at the points where they exit the rubber seal. In the photo, these are points 1 and 5.

Using a voltmeter, it is easy to determine which part of the heating system is faulty. If the heater is turned on, the ON indicator on the button is lit and there is 12 V on bus 1, but there is no heating, then the wiring to bus 1 is good. If there is no voltage on bus 1, then there is a bad contact in the supply voltage supply terminal on bus 1, or the relay is faulty. If 12 V is present not only on bus 1, but also on bus 2, then you need to look for a bad contact in the terminal for connecting the wire to bus 2 or the circuit for connecting the wire to the vehicle ground.

Locating a broken thread

After checking the system for supplying voltage to the heater, you can begin to determine the location of the broken heating thread. The thread is a tape resistance of about 10 ohms, and therefore the magnitude of the voltage at its different points has a different value. Therefore, at point 1, the voltage will be 12 V, at point 3 - 6 V, and at point 5 - 0 V. Therefore, even without knowing which of the threads in the break, it can be easily found by measuring the voltage in the middle of the length of all threads. On broken threads, the voltage will be 12 or 0 V. If the voltage is 12 V, then the breakage is on the left, and if 0 V, then on the right.

Now it is enough to slowly hold the probe towards the break, in the place of a sharp change in voltage there will be a break. For example, in the photo this is the section of the thread between 6 and 7 points.

Locating a broken thread with an ohmmeter

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If the broken thread is not known, then one end of the ohmmeter probe must be connected to the ground terminal, and the second in turn touch the middle of the heater threads. A thread on which the ohmmeter will show resistance twice as much and will be broken. For reference, the resistance on whole threads relative to bus 1 or 2 should be 2-3 ohms. In the event of a break in the thread, the ohmmeter will show 4-6 ohms.

When a damaged thread is found, it is necessary to move the end of the probe from the center in any direction. If the resistance increases when the probe moves towards tire 1, then the break is in the gap between bus 1 and the touch point of the probe. For example, in the place indicated by points 1 and 2. As soon as the probe passes the break point, the resistance will sharply decrease several times. If the resistance decreases, it means that the place where the thread breaks is between the probe and bus 2. For example, in the place indicated by points 3 and 4. Then you need to move the probe towards bus 2, and when the resistance drops sharply, at this point there will be a break .

Locating a broken thread
with Automotive Probe Tester

If a voltmeter or ohmmeter is not available, then you can find the place where the filament of the heating element breaks using a homemade car tester-probe, consisting of just one of any LED and a current-limiting resistor. I made such a tester for myself a long time ago, although I have any measuring instruments. A homemade car tester-probe always lies in the glove compartment of my car and I have had to use it more than once.

Searching for a broken thread using a probe tester is not much different from searching with a voltmeter. In this case, the indicator will not be an arrow or numbers, but the glow of the LED.

Before starting to search for a damaged thread with a probe, it is necessary to supply voltage to the heater. First, the presence of voltage on bus 1 is checked, the LED should be lit, if the LED is not lit, then the fault lies in the supply voltage circuit. Next, the voltage on bus 2 is checked, the LED should not glow, if it glows, it means that there is a contact violation at the place where the wire is connected to the bus or the car body.

To search for a break in the heater filament, you need to slowly, lightly touching the filament, lead along it with the end of the probe. At the point where the LED goes out or lights up and there is a break in the thread. For example, at point 6, the tester's LED will glow, and at point 7, it will not. In my case, the thread breaks were large and the tester was useful only to check the quality of the repair.

Heating element filament repair methods

There are several ways to restore the performance of a heating thread at home.

With conductive pastes and adhesives

The easiest and most effective is with special repair kits, for example DONE DEAL DD6590, designed to repair the wires and contacts of the rear window defroster by both amateurs and professionals. The method is good because it does not require tools and materials. It is enough to apply a little conductive paste from the syringe according to the attached instructions to the place where the thread breaks, wait until the paste hardens and the repair is completed. But such a set costs more than $15.

The second method is similar to the previous one. But instead of a proprietary set, purchased conductive adhesives are used, for example, Elecont, a Moscow manufacturer. Glue is applied to the place where the thread breaks, overlapping the whole part of the thread by a centimeter on each side. To get a neat look, a stencil made of tape or tape is used. For reliability, glue is applied twice. Between the layers of conductive glue, it is desirable to lay a piece of tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm.

There is an opinion that conductive paste or glue for repairing glass heater filaments can be made independently by mixing paint or glue with brass filings in a one-to-one ratio. The resulting composition is applied through a stencil with a thin layer to the place where the thread breaks in several layers. But the reliability of this technology is not confirmed by practice.

Copper plating

Another way is galvanic copper deposition. The heater filament repair method seems attractive. But from personal practice I can say that the reliability of such coatings at home is low. So I did not dare to use this technology.

By soft soldering

Has been widely adopted mechanical way restoring the integrity of the rear window heater threads by soft soldering. The reliability of this method was tested by me when repairing the rear window heating filaments in my own car. The step-by-step instructions below, written based on my experience, will allow you to easily repair the heater filament yourself in just a few minutes with virtually no financial costs.

On the advice of theorists from the Internet, I made a big mistake, I tried to strip the thread with sandpaper. As a result, instead of breaking the thread with a width of 1 mm, a break of more than 1 cm was obtained. The thread tape is very thin, only a couple of tens of microns and is erased instantly, even with the finest sandpaper. The heater threads are not coated with anything anyway, and it is enough to degrease the soldering place with a flap soaked in alcohol or acetone.

If the width of the thread break is less than 1 mm, then soldering an additional conductor can be dispensed with. In my case, the width of the gap was large, and I had to pre-prepare a piece of copper wire for the jumper. A current of about 1 A flows through one thread of the heater. Based on this, we select a wire with a cross section of 0.17 mm 2 from the wire section table, which corresponds to a diameter of 0.45 mm. The length of the copper jumper should be equal to the width of the thread break plus 2 cm. Before soldering, the jumper must be tinned with a thick layer of POS-61 tin-lead solder. The heater thread does not need to be tinned.

In order for the solder to reliably stick to the heater thread, before soldering the jumper, the thread in the soldering zone should be lubricated with a brush with a thin layer of zinc chloride flux.

Next, the jumper is pressed against the heating thread and warmed up for one second with a 12 W soldering iron. The hand is moved to the side. The jumper must be held on the thread. Trying to pull it to check the quality of the soldering is unacceptable, it will fall off, and even tear off a piece of the heater thread. Unfortunately, it has been tested experimentally. As a result of experiments, I ended up having to solder the jumper 5 cm long.

After soldering one end of the jumper, the second one is pressed tightly against the thread and is also heated with a soldering iron. After soldering, in order to remove the residual acid flux, the glass is thoroughly washed with water.

To top it off, for reliability, although this is not necessary, I covered the soldered jumper on top with Moment transparent superglue based on cyanoacrylates, the heat resistance of which is about 70 ° C. Above this temperature, the heater does not heat up.

As a result, the time for repairing a broken thread with your own hands, taking into account all the preparatory work, was no more than ten minutes. The repaired threads have been serving for more than three years.

Let's take a closer look at repairing a break in one or more threads when some of the horizontal strips of the rear window defroster do not work. Cases when the heating on the glass does not turn on at all are no longer associated with a break in the threads, because 12–16 pieces cannot burn out at the same time, but with some other reasons:

• broken wires;
• intermediate relay does not work;
• the power button is not working;

Warning lamp not lit in the instrument panel, clearly only indicates a malfunction of only the rear window defroster button.

The place where the threads break can be detected visually without a special tool - if large gaps, wide scratches, oxidation of damaged areas are visible to the naked eye.

Also, when it is cold outside, on the fogged rear window with the heater turned on, you can find that the surface dries up near the breaks, although the thread itself does not heat up.

If nothing is visible, then you will need either an indicator with a battery, or a multimeter, with which you can certainly detect breaks, and there may be several of them in one thread.

Phase indicator with continuity function , into which the battery is inserted, is a very handy tool, it helps out not only when you need to find breaks in the threads of the rear window heater, as in our case, but also when looking for breaks in hidden wiring in the house. It will even come in handy for repairing such sought-after accessories as music headphones, because their thin wires break so often.

And everyone should have a multimeter at all, it is always needed in the car. Especially now, when one such device, of a simple design, without an accuracy class, is very cheap.

In general, one of these tools is enough. On the dial indicator, on its metal hook of the handle, you will need to wind a thin wire. Then, the free end of this wiring is hooked to the mass of the car, it is possible for the door lock open door, and the indicator itself is guided by a sting along the conductive path of the heater. You need to connect the multimeter probes for testing in the same way, do not forget to just switch the universal measuring device to DCV, 20 - measure DC voltage with a measurement limit of up to 20 volts.

Voltage drops at the point where the wire breaks. when the rear window heating is on, which will be indicated by the indicator light going out or the absence of readings on the multimeter.

At the factory, copper conductive paths are applied to the glass by electrolytic deposition in a bath of copper sulphate. But in garage conditions fiddling with reagents and a solution of sulfuric acid is dangerous, and threatens with lightened spots on the back shelf, as well as the seat, and even holes in your clothes. But it’s of little use - you can only patch scratches with a home-made electrolyzer, or just clean oxidized places near large gaps.

Minor scratches can be repaired by soldering . Before soldering, to remove green oxide, it is enough to wipe the damaged surface once with a cloth soaked in alcohol or any of the available solvents. Trying to remove green plaque, do not use a knife, scalpel, sandpaper You will only scratch the damaged area even more.

It is recommended to use zinc chloride as a flux, but you can use any active fat, petroleum jelly or other special composition, which does not leave a lot of burning after soldering. Rosin solid or dissolved in alcohol will not work - it leaves too much dirt.

Fine copper wire, 0.3–0.4 mm in diameter needed to fill wide gaps. It is necessary to solder exactly a thin copper wire, no more than 0.4 mm thick, because otherwise a thicker one with its low resistance will create more heat at the bridging point than the rest of the undamaged part of the thread.

Only copper wire can be tinned, not the ends of a broken track, since the coating on the glass can fall off from a thick tin tail.

The above repair method is inaccurate, subsequently leaving a noticeable trace of intervention on the glass. And there is a special two-component conductive adhesive , the cost of which in a small set is 10-15 dollars. The composition is prepared by mixing the most heat-resistant cyanoacrylate adhesive with copper powder, strictly in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the package.

You should not turn on the rear window heater immediately after applying the repair compound, you need to let the glue harden. The curing time of the conductive compound is about 30 minutes.

The prepared conductive paste must be apply thinly , not thicker than the working part of the rear window heater thread. As in the case of copper wire repair, too thick a layer of hardened paste, having little resistance, will heat up more than the rest of the conductive track. But in general, it will give the impression that the repaired thread is heated weaker than others that have not been repaired.

Little trick: to too light conductive paste after drying, it coincided in color with the sprayed copper tracks, you can add a few drops of medical iodine to it.

Few people know that it is wrong to paste over the repair site on glass with ordinary transparent adhesive tape: it leaves too much sticky glue and comes off along with part of the conductive paste. Limit the repair area horizontally and vertically narrow paper masking tape That's just what professionals do. Some repair kits include a ready-made stencil, but when working, you have to hold it with your hand.

Repair results

Repair with soft solder is quick and easy and results last for several years. The reliability of this method is confirmed by a large number of home craftsmen who resorted to it, since financial costs from it are minimized. The requirements are minimal: purchase a good highly active flux and have practical soldering skills. There is only one drawback - soldering points on the glass are visible and you can't disguise them.

Anyone can also do it, there are a lot of repair kits on sale, from cheap small packages to professional boxes. The quality of the repair, when following the manufacturer's instructions, is excellent and long-term. Important advantage : by working carefully and having knowledge, you can hide the places of repair in such a way that the glass will be like new.

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