The car should be comfortable and safe. Should move evenly. Be stable against rollovers and cornering. To achieve such indicators, there are many different ways. Now let's talk about the stabilizer roll stability and its elements in the system

Surely, every driver has repeatedly noticed that the car rolls to the side when cornering. Another car, on the contrary, as if grabbing the tires into the roadway, passes the turn without unnecessary swaying.

Of course, a lot depends on the type and design of the suspension. And, by the way, from series to series, it undergoes significant changes. It should be noted that for comfortable ride suspension should be soft. But there are many downsides to being soft. One of them is body rocking. To prevent this phenomenon, designers can go to various tricks. More on this later.

Installing a stabilizer bar allows the suspension to be slightly stiff, keeping the car from swaying excessively while maintaining a comfortable ride. The stabilizer bushings actively help him in this.

The stabilizer is made in the form of a metal bar and has spring properties. bushings front stabilizer are installed approximately in the middle (depending on the design) and are made of rubber.

The middle part of the stabilizer is attached to the body or beam. It has a U-shape. The ends, by means of hinged racks (popularly called bones), are attached to the suspension elements, more often to the levers.

Now consider what a bushing is. The bushing, in the context of the stabilizer, is a mating part. That is, it is put on a part with its inner hole (an example is a hand grip), fasteners are placed on it from the outside and screwed to a rigid element (in our case, or a suspension beam). Result: the stabilizer is fixed rigidly, but thanks to the bushings it has the ability to “float”, performing its working functions.

Stabilizer bushings, when worn, can annoy with an unpleasant knock. How to avoid it?

Lateral stability of the car is extremely important, especially when cornering. If, for example, you do not take into account the speed of entry into a turn, the car can easily roll over. Of course, if a “daredevil” is driving, even the most newfangled cars may not be saved. When changing, the car leans in the direction opposite to the turn. There is a risk of tipping over. In this case, one wheel is more loaded than the other. It follows from this that a more loaded wheel needs to be “supported”. This function is assigned to the stabilizer. The bushings of the stabilizer, in turn, provide it with a "floating rotation" to prevent metal tearing from overload.

The stabilizer is a very reliable element in the suspension of the car. Since it perceives variable loads, the parts associated with it wear out. It is advisable to replace defective parts with new ones at the next time without waiting for their complete destruction. Stabilizer bushings, subject to their proper quality, serve for a long time, about 10,000 km. But they can remind of themselves before with a characteristic creak and knock. There is no need to be afraid of this! But it is also not worth delaying the solution of the issue. You can replace the stabilizer bushings yourself. It does not require high qualifications and rich locksmith experience. But be sure to read the car repair manual. It is equally important to find and purchase bushings. High Quality thereby minimizing the possibility of premature wear.

The anti-roll bar bushings are an integral part of the system that ensures the lateral stability of the machine in corners. During the turn, the centrifugal force tends to tilt the body in opposite side, and the stabilizer torsion bar, with the help of bushings attached to the body and suspension, resists such influence. Over time, the bushings wear out, collapse and become unusable, after which they must be replaced. We will talk about how to determine if the bushings require replacement and how to change them.

What are bushings for?

The anti-roll bar works on the principle of a torsion bar - a twisting beam, due to which a change in the height of the right wheel relative to the left one leads to twisting of the steel bar from which the stabilizer is made. The task of the bushings is not only to attach the stabilizer to the body, but also to reduce the noise of the entire system. The rubber or polyurethane from which the bushings are made has good strength and elasticity, due to which the change in the height of one of the wheels of the axle takes place without knocks and squeaks. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the suspension and body due to the fact that as the bend changes, the distance from the edge of the stabilizer to the suspension attachment point also changes. Very often, faulty bushings make various sounds - knocks, squeaks, especially during the passage of speed bumps or in sharp turns. This is due to the fact that the sleeve either loses its elasticity, becoming too rigid, or sand or dust is packed under it.

How to check bushings

Checking bushings consists of two stages:

• visual inspection;
• mechanical impact.

To check the bushings, the car is rolled into a pit or overpass. It is undesirable to perform these works on a lift because the stabilizer has to be pulled hard to check the bushings, and this can lead to a fall of the machine. It is all the more undesirable to use jacks, because by pulling the stabilizer a couple of times, you will tip the car over. It is not difficult to predict the consequences of such a development of events. Even the quick arrival of rescuers and emergency delivery to the hospital will not allow to avoid serious harm to health. If the rescuers are delayed, then you can die from a crash syndrome, internal bleeding or pain shock.

The purpose of visual inspection is to detect cracks and breaks in the bushings. If at least a small crack or tear is found on any bushing, then the entire set must be changed. For mechanical action, grasp the stabilizer near the bushing connecting it to the suspension, and start pulling hard in different directions. If squeaks or knocks appear at the same time, the bushings must be replaced. Do not be afraid to damage the bushings, body or stabilizer, because the loads during movement are much stronger than you can create, even pulling with all your might.

How to replace front and rear bushings + Video

In contrast to the test, which must be performed only on a pit or overpass, the replacement of bushings can also be carried out on a lift or jack and two stands. For more information on how to properly raise the car on jacks, read the article (safety for car repair and maintenance). You will need the following tools to replace bushings:

• a set of socket and open-end wrenches;
• metal brush;
• soap solution;
• graphite lubricant.

Preparation for replacing the stabilizer bushings on all machines is the same. Hang the front or rear of the machine, make sure the machine does not fall, then remove the wheels and engine guard (if equipped). After that, with an iron brush, clean all the bolts and nuts securing the bushings to the body or suspension. Often, the bushings that fasten the stabilizer to the suspension are made in the form of a part with two holes and silent blocks installed inside. It is much easier to change such bushings as a whole, rather than individual silent blocks. It will cost a little more, but you won’t have to suffer with pressing out old silent blocks and pressing in new ones.

The only difficulty that arises in the process of replacing the bushings is the difficulty in unscrewing the bolts that secure the bushings and clamps to the body. It is especially difficult to do this work on a machine with a subframe, so you need to tune in to hard work in difficult conditions.

• First of all, the stabilizer is disconnected from the suspension;
• Then the bolts securing it to the body are unscrewed and the stabilizer is pulled out;
• Old bushings are removed from the stabilizer, cleaned of dust and dirt and washed with soap. This procedure allows you to remove dust from the surface of the stabilizer, because dust is a strong abrasive that can quickly render a new bushing unusable;
• Now the new bushings are smeared with soapy water from the inside and put on the stabilizer;
• After that, the stabilizer is inserted into place and screwed to the body and suspension.

It is advisable to lubricate the threads of the bolts and nuts with graphite grease, this will keep them from sticking and facilitate the next replacement of the bushings. Then they put on the engine protection, wheels, tighten the nuts or bolts and remove the car from the stands or lift.

Broken bushings of the front anti-roll bar of cars Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos(Chevrolet Lanos) can hardly be called an emergency breakdown. Through their fault, the wheel will not fall off, the brakes will not disappear, and the car will not lose control while driving. But, headache and the extra consumption of nerve cells, these "insignificant" rubber bands can provide 100%. Since it will be difficult not to hear the knock and roar that will appear in the suspension of your car due to the fault of the "killed" stabilizer bushings. And even more difficult, every time you pass even small bumps on the road, convince yourself that the sounds that the suspension of your car makes do not bode well. Why endure, get nervous and increase the volume of the radio, trying to drown out extraneous sounds? It's easier to solve a problem than to put up with it. Moreover, after reading this article, you will know not only the order of the work, but also about possible unpleasant surprises that you may encounter in the process. And here we can recall the catchphrase - "Forewarned is forearmed." That is, you should not have problems, and if they appear, then you will cope with them successfully. I hope I convinced you. And you will read the article to the end))).

A tool needed to replace the bushings (rubbers) of the front suspension stabilizer bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) cars. Perhaps I’ll start with it, since the list of tools is small and it won’t take much time to compile it. What can not be said about spare parts .... But, more on that below. And so, what tool will you need in this work: a spanner wrench for 13, socket heads for 13 and 14 (it would be very nice if an elongated head for 13 is available), a ratchet, a universal joint (significantly speeds up the work), an extension cord and caliper (in its absence, you can use a ruler). We look at photo 1. This is the minimum, in the presence of which, you can replace all the bushings of the front stabilizer without tangible difficulties. Yes, about the difficulties ... It happens and not infrequently that it is impossible to unscrew the stabilizer strut nut (it is firmly rusted, the edges of the nut are very "licked") and in this case there is only one right decision - a grinder. In its absence, you can work with a hacksaw. True, in this case, replacing bushings (rubbers) alone is not enough, you will have to buy a stabilizer strut assembly (which means "assembly" can be found in the paragraph below - Spare Parts). And a few words about the place of work. To replace the stabilizer struts or their bushings, it will be enough to raise the required side with a jack, remove the wheel and calmly proceed to action. True, in this case, when assembling and tightening the front stabilizer struts, you will have to resort to a little trick that will allow you to do everything “according to science”. But, we will talk about this in more detail a little later. And here, with body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, it’s impossible to figure it out without a viewing hole or a lift.

Spare parts. What details apply to anti-roll bar front suspension? I list - stabilizer struts 2 pieces (connects the stabilizer to the front suspension arm through the eye of the rod), body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer 2 pieces, stabilizer mounting brackets to the body 2 pieces. It should be said right away that stabilizer struts and naturally bushings (gum bands) of these struts on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos) and Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia) cars are the same. What can you say about body bushings (they are also called pillows) of the stabilizer. On the Daewoo Nexia, the stabilizer bushings are much smaller than on the Lanos. Plus, to this - the stabilizer bushings for cars Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) come in two types - with lamella (new sample) and smooth (old style). We look at photos 2, 3 and 4. This is worth remembering. And before going to the car market, it will not be superfluous to look under the car again and determine which stabilizer bushings (pillows) you should buy. In principle, the inner diameter of these stub bushings is the same and they are interchangeable, but only together with mounting brackets))) (photo 5). Yes, the stabilizer brackets are also not eternal, they burst regularly. Approximately the same as in photo 6. And in this case, a metallic clang joins the booming blows "in the running gear". So what else I wanted to say about the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer ... Ah, here it is! At the Losk car market, repair bushings of the stabilizer appeared on sale. True, so far only in one version - smooth. With a strong wear of the stabilizer (yes, this happens, especially if the car ran 300,000 km in taxi mode;)) will be very useful. We look at photo 7. Well, in addition, photo 8 - quite noticeable wear on the bushing (cushion) of the stabilizer)))).

So and a few more words stabilizer struts. Front anti-roll bar for Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) consists of: four rubber bushings (1), four metal support washers (2 ), spacer sleeve (3), bolt (4) and nut (5). Photo 9. All parts of the rack wear out over time. And washers, and a spacer, and, of course, rubber bushings. I already spoke about the rusted nut of the stabilizer strut, plus I can also add a stuck spacer to the bolt and the only way to deal with this problem is a grinder. So, given all of the above, we can advise you to buy the whole rack. But, remembering the difficult financial situation in the country and the desire of any person in a similar situation to spend as little money as possible. You can try to get by with just replacing the rubber bushings - a two-sided kit consists of 8 pieces and, of course, will cost five times cheaper than the assembled racks. True, before making a decision, you should at least try to unwind the rack - clean the threads, spill it with oil or VD-40, and then begin to act. If things go well, the nut turns and the bolt turns in the spacer sleeve, and not with it, then buying rubber bushings alone is your option (photo 10). If not, the nut is licked, the bolt is stuck, the thrust washers are noticeably squeezed, then the right decision is to buy the whole racks (photo 11). Something like this...

And at the choice of the brand of the manufacturer of spare parts. According to the racks of the front stub, we can safely recommend - Febi, Ruville, Anam, CRB (factory China, very good quality). On the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer - CRB, Gumex (excellent rubber quality), FSO.

Smoothly, we proceed to the description of replacing the bushings (rubbers) of the front suspension anti-roll bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos):

1. If you decide to replace only the stabilizer struts or strut bushings, then you do not need an inspection hole or a lift. It is enough to install the car on a flat area, put on the handbrake and speed, release the wheel bolts, raise the required side with a jack, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. And here it is - the stabilizer bar! As I said, be sure to clean the thread of the bolt from dirt and process it with VD-40, brake fluid, oil and try to unscrew the nut. To do this, you will need two keys for 13. At least one end, and the second cap. Approximately as in photo 12. Or using two socket wrenches with an elongated head (photo 13). If you can’t unscrew it, but you bought the whole racks, but you can not suffer for a long time and pick up a grinder or a hacksaw. If there are no racks in stock, then we continue to fight hard.

Once the stabilizer link or links are untwisted, sawn and removed, the stub bar can be rocked up and down. If it hangs freely, knocks, then this is a sure sign of worn-out body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer. And they, if not immediately, then soon will have to be changed.

So, in the event that you decide to limit yourself to replacing the racks or their bushings, then you can start installing new parts. If it is planned to replace the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, then we are in no hurry to install the racks and read point number 3.

2. Installation of stabilizer struts. There is nothing complicated here, but there is a small nuance. How to make a set of stabilizer struts? I do it according to the instructions given in the repair book - " Rubber bushings are located with projections to each other, and thrust washers with projections to rubber bushings ". Option one in photo 14. Some of these thrust washers are put the other way around. They say it’s better. I won’t argue. I don’t see any serious violations in the assembly. As well as a weighty reason for discussion on this topic. But, I do as recommended.

Before installation, the rack bolt should be lubricated. It is necessary to tighten the rack in the "car on wheels" position until the moment when distance between thrust washers will not be 38mm(photo 15). It is not difficult to do this on a viewing hole when the car is on wheels. But, if this is not possible, then you will have to press the lever up with the help of a second jack (photo 16). Simulate the position "car on wheels" and then tighten the strut nut, observing the required distance between the washers.

3. With body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, everything is a little more complicated. We drive the car into a viewing hole if there is protection below engine compartment, you will have to remove it. Next, we unwind the stabilizer struts (read item number 1). You can, of course, not unwind the rack. But, then the stabilizer will be clamped and stretched, which will create problems when installing the bushing, bracket and mounting bolts.

We take on the fixing bolts of the brackets of the stabilizer bushings. WITH right side, it will be much easier to do this (photo 17). But on the left, access to these bolts will be difficult. Help will come ratchet + extension + universal joint + head 14. Here, as in photo 18. Without this tool, the work will take more time and effort. In turn, on each side, unscrew the bolts, remove the brackets and change the stabilizer bushings. We install the brackets, bait the mounting bolts and tighten them, but do not tighten them completely. The final tightening of the bolts of the brackets of the stabilizer pads should be done only after the final tightening of the stabilizer struts (read point No. 2).

Look like that's it! Somehow, the replacement of bushings (rubbers) of the anti-roll bar of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) is going on. I hope that I explained everything clearly and did not confuse you))).

When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!

The suspension of any car is always the first to take a hit from road bumps. Depending on the design and settings, suspension units are designed to most effectively dampen shock loads from road surface irregularities, as well as to ensure vehicle controllability and stability on high speeds when cornering, as well as with a sharp change in the trajectory of movement (“snake”, detour of an obstacle). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements performs its role. Pins and levers support the wheel in a given plane, providing unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).

The principle of operation of stabilizers

Springs provide elasticity and return of suspension elements to their original state, and shock absorbers - smooth running and damping of elastic body vibrations. At the same time, even the flawless operation of the listed elements to ensure safe movement not enough. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern passenger car, you can see another element - the anti-roll bar. in suspension front axle the stabilizer is a curved lever, attached with one shoulder to the wheel hub assembly, the other - to the subframe. Fasteners - not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.

The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when passing corners with a small radius or with a sharp change in the trajectory of movement. In the widely used MacPherson type front suspension, the anti-roll bar is a torsion bar that works in torsion. This arm is rigidly connected to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it with the help of additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device is able to prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its rollover), while maintaining a straight trajectory.

In the rear axle suspension, the anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with all-wheel drive. On many rear-wheel drive vehicles with a solid rear axle beam, the role of the stabilizer is performed by a torque rod (Panhard rod). Some all-wheel drive models of Japanese production of past years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land cruiser 80, etc.), along with the Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod passing through the entire beam of the rear axle and connected through short levers with the power elements of the body or frame. Principle of operation rear stabilizer similar to the principle of operation of the front: reduction of the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.

Signs of a bad stabilizer bushing

To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are fastened through elastic elements. The stabilizer units are no exception, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber. As a result of many factors: poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, defects are observed in the operation of the anti-roll bar, which manifest themselves over time on an increasing basis.

The first harbingers of the need to replace the bushings are. In contrast to the knocking of shock absorbers, it occurs not only when driving through road bumps, but also when cornering with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of play in the joints of the stabilizer arms as a result of bushing wear. If this is not given importance, then subsequently the "symptoms" may increase.

The rattling knocks of the suspension will intensify and begin to accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll heavily in corners, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (if the bushings on both wheels are heavily worn, or if the stabilizer beam breaks). In some cases, it starts to "play" wheel. The car loses its sharpness of control, it becomes rolled. It is possible to “yaw” and pull towards a faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and trajectory. Others may appear in the suspension extraneous noise and vibration. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing bushings after 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is rattling and knocking when cornering and body roll.

Suspension inspection

Before inspection, it is desirable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. When visually inspecting all the elastic elements of the suspension, it is easy to detect a damaged part. If the bushing is worn or damaged, abrasions and cracks are visible on it, which are called “daisies” among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that form rubber elements when cracked. Loss of elasticity, “hardening” of rubber is also a sure sign of an upcoming replacement. If for some reason (lack of a lift, a viewing hole or the nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, you can determine the degree of wear by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (B-pillar) and shake the car a little from side to side. The presence of knocks, creaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension can serve as an indirect indication for the replacement of elastic bushings.

For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto a flyover or viewing hole. To determine the condition of the elements of the anti-roll bar, it is necessary to shake the junctions of all suspension arms using a crowbar or mounting blade. To do this, it is necessary to lean on the mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging protective coating and with a slight wiggle, alternately press on all the stabilizer mounts to be checked. If during such a manipulation in at least one joint there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - a loss of elasticity - then half the battle is already done! It remains only to replace the worn bushing.

Video - How to replace the stabilizer bushings on a VAZ

How to change stabilizer bushings

In order to replace the rubber bushings of the front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, it is better to do all the work not on a lift or on a jack when all the wheels of the car are hung out, but on an inspection hole using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung out on a lift or jack. After hanging and securely fastening, for access to the parts of the stabilizer, remove the wheel (wheels on the same axle), fender liner and crankcase protection. After that, the stabilizer mounts are loosened, including the mounting brackets to the body or subframe.

If threaded connections do not lend themselves due to oxides or severe contamination, they must be processed to avoid stripping or shearing of bolts. special liquid to facilitate unscrewing. Before loosening the fasteners, it is necessary to raise the lower arm with a jack or put a stop. When replacing the bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is more desirable), it is necessary to jack up or set the stops on the axles of the front wheels.

This procedure is necessary to remove the load from the stabilizer beam for easier bushing replacement. After all these conditions are met, it is possible to remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing with its subsequent replacement with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for ease of installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.

Original repair kits always have the correct amount of grease to lubricate the inside of the bushings before replacement. The assembly of all stabilizer assemblies and other elements of the car is carried out in the reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.

The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens the shocks and jumps that occur when the car is moving on a rough road or there is no road. The smoothness of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.

The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when hitting bumps, or getting into pits and ruts. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out heavily with frequent movement over bumps.

Pendants are divided into the following types:

• McPherson;
• double-lever;
• multi-link;
• adaptive;
• "De Dion";
• rear dependent;
• rear semi-independent;
• pickups and SUVs;
• trucks.

McPherson suspension

The McPherson type suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. It consists of a stabilizer bar, a lever and a block. A serious disadvantage of the suspension is the change in the angle of the camber, but it is very popular because of its affordability and reliability.

double wishbone suspension

Double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the car to maintain stability on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle and does not transfer the load to other wheels.

The multi-link suspension was developed not so long ago and is an even more advanced design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All these components are designed to dampen shocks and strong shocks while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the cabin is also reduced. The suspension has separate transverse and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent of each other. The design is ideal for all-wheel drive vehicles.

Price multi-link suspension for some time it remained quite high, but now even drivers of golf-class cars can afford it.

adaptive suspension

The adaptive suspension is quite curious in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Thanks to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave buildup at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. Part adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorber struts, control unit undercarriage and electronic sensors that record road irregularities and other parameters.

"De Dion"

"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on rear axle vehicle by separating the final drive housing. The crankcase in this case rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. With a sharp start, the body of the car can put a lot of pressure on the rear axle.

Rear dependent suspension

The rear dependent suspension is a real classic, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive cross bar acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.

semi dependent rear suspension most commonly used in vehicles with all-wheel drive. Its main elements are two trailing arms fastened in the center to the crossbar. Such a suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance and serious repairs. But it is no longer possible to install such a suspension on rear-wheel drive cars.

Other types of pendants

The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it possible to simplify the process of production and repair of trucks.

Anti-roll bar: design and purpose

The anti-roll bar is an indispensable part of the suspension. It provides a reduction in body roll when cornering, increased grip of the wheels with the road surface and even distribution of the load on the frame. The shape resembles a metal beam with curved tips. It is attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.

Suspension diagnostics in the service center

The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to a thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most subject to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.

You can determine that the time has come to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the stopping distance of the car. The stability of the car on the road also weakens over time. Diagnostics in service centers produced using high-precision equipment (luffmeter, lateral drift tester) and provides maximum information content. After the diagnosis, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.

To install the stabilizer, special bushings are used. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the operation of the stabilizer.

The sleeve is created by casting from rubber or polyurethane. The shape for most models is identical. It is additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.

Signs of wear on the stabilizer bushings

There are several signs:

• the formation of steering wheel play during cornering;
• trembling of the steering wheel;
• body roll with various knocks and clicks;
• vibration and extraneous noise;
• "Wag" of the car to the side when driving straight;
• instability on the road.

Causes of bushing failure

Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents that are used during black ice are no exception. Aggressive driving style with sharp braking and starting quickly leads to wear of most vehicle structures, including stabilizer bushings.

A major cause of wear can be low temperatures. The rubber of low-quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.

And finally, the most serious wear factor is time. The stabilizer bushing, like most elements of the car structure, is a spare part that has an expiration date. Any bushing sooner or later wears out and needs to be replaced.

Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, it is necessary to carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned of dirt. You can determine the wear of the bushing visually: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn bushings loses its elasticity. To inspect the bushings, a special viewing hole or lift will help you. If there are no such amenities, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the roof of the car and shake it. Knocks and creaking in the lower part of the body will be a signal to replace the bushings.

Some car owners try to extend the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, since the lubricant “collects” various road debris and dust during the movement. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. Litol-24 and MOLYKOTE CU-7439 are suitable for you. These are versatile products. They can even be used to lubricate brake calipers. Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.

You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement in the inspection hole, where special supports may also be needed. Of the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.

Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement

The process of replacing the bushings of the front and transverse stabilizer are somewhat different.

To replace the front stabilizer bushings, you need to perform a series of actions described below:

1. Install the car motionless over a viewing hole or on a lift.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts using tools.
3. Remove wheels.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Separate the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts securing the bracket that surrounds the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
7. Thoroughly clean the places for installing new bushings from dirt.
8. Lubricate inner sides sleeves with silicone spray or soapy water. A special lubricant available in repair kits may also be suitable for this.
9. Install stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.

To replace the cross stabilizer bushings, you also need to park the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. Then follow the steps below:

1. Place wheel chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle and slightly raise the front wheels.
2. Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the vehicle's lower suspension arm. Carry out this operation on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Grover washers under the nuts are removed manually.
3. Remove staples and remove worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
4. If there are central bushings, then you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is mounted on two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
5. After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vise. Then you can remove the stem and then the bushing.
6. Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
7. Further, as usual, the reverse installation is carried out.