With and increased stitch length. This model Designed for light to medium fabrics. The stitch length is adjustable from 1 to 5 mm. Installation step - 0.5 mm. Max speed sewing - 5,000 sti/min.

Minerva M5550-JDE is manufactured under license from the German company Dürkopp-Adler, on a similar mechanical base, with identical component quality and excellent build quality. The sewing machine is equipped with a silent built-in servo motor with energy-saving Eco-Drive™ technology. High-quality electronics provide quick start and precise stop of the main shaft, for stable and smooth stitching. The control panel is built into the head of the machine. The lubrication system is represented by an open oil sump with an automatic oil pump. For the productive work of a seamstress, there are: needle positioning options, a soft start function, a function for setting sewing speed limits, LED backlight working area and built-in bobbin winder. There is also a button for adding one stitch in the needle bar area.

Speed ​​control

By equipping the machine with a servo motor, the possibility of flexible setting of the sewing speed is available. The minimum starting speed is 300 rpm. The motor speed is regulated by 100 revolutions. Using the function of setting the sewing speed limits, it is also possible to set the speed range of the motor, and by pressing the start pedal, the servomotor will only run within the specified numbers.

Smooth start

The soft start function allows you to realize a smooth start of the stitching with a gradual increase in sewing speed. To do this, you need to activate the corresponding option on the control panel and set the number of initial stitches that will be performed at the minimum engine speed

Economic Servo Motor

Modern servo

The latest technology noise reduction and a modern servo drive built into the head of the machine made it possible to reduce the level of vibration and noise by 50% in comparison with industrial sewing machines of this class. In turn, the energy-saving Eco-Drive™ technology saves up to 450 kWh* of electricity annually

Integrated panel

Convenient control panel built into the head sewing machine, allowing all sewing settings to be made in one place, including motor speed setting and soft start functions

Adding a stitch

Adding a stitch

This option allows you to add a stitch at the right place in the stitching with just one touch of a button. The function will be useful when attaching small parts and finishing stitches to the butt

Versatility

The increased stroke of the comb and the ability to adjust the height and angle of the feed teeth, makes it easy to debug the material feed mechanism for sewing various types of light and medium fabrics, with the same high quality lines

LED backlight

LED backlight

The built-in LED light is conveniently placed directly above the needle bar, providing excellent illumination of the entire work area. Two-position brightness adjustment available

Built-in bobbin winder

The winder is practically integrated into the head of the sewing machine, allowing you to carry out the preparatory work of winding the thread onto the bobbins as quickly as possible. The bobbin winder is powered by a servomotor. There is also a thread cutter.

Automatic lubrication

Minerva M5550-JDE is equipped with new system lubrication with an automatic oil pump that provides fast oil supply to friction units in the minimum required amount for high-speed operation. Removable oil filter reliably removes dust, keeping oil clean

Automatic lubrication

The Minerva M818-JDE is equipped with a new lubrication system with an automatic oil pump, providing fast oil supply to the friction units in the minimum amount required for high-speed operation. Replaceable oil filter reliably removes dust, keeping oil clean

If you are into patchwork and quilting, then the best choice for you will be Husqvarna machines Sapphire series (for example, model 870) or Pfaff Expression 4.0. We can also recommend the Janome Memory Craft 6600 Professional.

Adherents of the Japanese approach to technology - sophisticated electronics and outstanding functionality for moderate money - can safely recommend the older Brother models: NV 600 and NV 400. Janome 4900 QC has similar capabilities.

Among the machines in this class, it is worth highlighting the novelty of 2009 - Janome Memory Craft 5200. This machine uses a unique needle plate, the hole in which automatically decreases when you sew with a straight line. This innovation has a very positive effect on the quality of the straight stitch, especially on thin fabrics, and also reduces the likelihood of skipped stitches when sewing stretch fabrics.

In the electric segment mechanical machines the situation with the prices and functionality of machines is similar to the situation with computer machines. Just as European cars are of high quality workmanship and reliability, just like Japanese cars have more features at lower prices.

Among mechanical machines with modern types shuttles, we can safely recommend Pfaff Select 3.0 and older models. Family has very good Gold Line models - 7123, 7023 and 7018, as well as new Gold Master series machines (8124e, 8024a and 8018a) And from Janome we can recommend the time-tested very successful models Janome 1221 and Janome w23u.

Sewing machine device

The device of industrial sewing machines

Industrial sewing machines have elevated speed characteristics and somewhat different kinematic relationships in comparison with household sewing machines operating at low speeds. These kinematic relationships are discussed below using the example sewing machines 22-A and 97-A classes having a corresponding shaft speed of 3500 and 5000 rpm.

Sewing machine 22-A class PMZ

needle mechanism(Fig. 12). This mechanism is typically crank, converting the rotational movement of the main shaft 6 through the crank 7 and the connecting rod 8 into the reciprocating movement of the needle bar 4 with the needle 1 fixed in the needle holder 2. The needle bar can be moved in height using regulatory screws R leash (studs).

Thread take-up mechanism(Fig. 13). This is a hinge-rod type mechanism. It is a lever 3, put on the inner shoulder of the crank pin (see Fig. 12, 7), pivotally connected to the connecting link, which is pivotally connected to the body cars using pin 2. The outer arm of the lever is equipped with an eyelet for threading. As the main shaft crank rotates, the thread take-up eye follows a complex curve, slowly lowering to feed the thread and quickly rising to tighten the stitch. Adjustment missing from the mechanism.

Shuttle mechanism(Fig. 14). The mechanism of the shuttle is rotating. The shuttle receives its movements from the main shaft through the means of two pairs of bevel gears 2 with a total gear ratio of 1 = 1:2. The shuttle is mounted on the shuttle shaft with 4 screws, so if necessary it can be rotated or moved (when adjusting cars).

Tissue Engine Mechanism(Fig. 15) consists of two nodes, one of which informs the rail of the vertical movement, and the second - horizontally.

Knot vertical movements reiki has the following device. A double eccentric is attached to the main shaft. When the main shaft rotates, the eccentric tells the connecting rod 3 vertical movements. In this case, the connecting rod, pivotally connected by the rear head to the rear rocker arm 8 of the lifting shaft 9, vibrates this shaft in the center screws. The rocker arm 10 fixed at the front end of the shaft raises and lowers the cloth feed lever 11 with the rack through the roller and, if necessary, can be turned on the shaft ( adjustment R).

Node of horizontal movements of the rail. When the main shaft rotates, the eccentric through the cuff informs the connecting rod-fork 2 oscillatory movements, while the rocker arm 14 oscillates together with the advance shaft 13. The front rocker arm 12 informs the lever-fork 11 with the rack reciprocating movements horizontally. The magnitude of these movements can change, and consequently, the amount of tissue advancement will change. To do this, it is enough to bring the connecting link 5 closer to the connecting rod-fork 2. For this purpose, screw 4 is screwed in ( adjustment R). In this case, the upper arm of the lever-fork 6 moves in the direction from the worker, and the lower one, together with the connecting link 5, moves in the direction of the worker. The amount of advance decreases. To increase the amount of advancement, this screw is turned out. To change the direction of movement of the fabric when fastening the stitch, it is enough to move the connecting link to the other side of the connecting rod-fork 2. For this purpose, the front shoulder of the two-arm reverse stroke lever 7 is lowered. The roller, together with the lever-fork 6 and the connecting link, will move to the working one. The lower the lever is lowered, the more the connecting link moves to the worker. If you lower the reverse stroke lever, the coil spring will return the connecting link to its previous position and the fabric under the needle will move away from the working one. By turning the eccentric 1 ( adjustment P) on the main shaft, the timing of tissue advancement changes. By turning the rocker 14 ( adjustment P) the position of the teeth of the feed dog in the slot of the needle plate is changed.

The general layout of the mechanisms is shown in Figure 16. The main places are marked on the kinematic diagram adjustments mechanisms and arrows show lubrication points.

Sewing machine 97-A class

Car 97-A class refers to modern high-speed equipment and has more complex kinematic connections.

Needle mechanism (Fig. 17). In principle, it does not differ from a similar mechanism 22-A class, however, it is structurally more perfect: a shortened, lightweight, thin needle bar 8 in its movement is guided not only by the bushings 4, but also by the guide for the insert 7, put on the pin of the pin 11. This guide is equipped with automatic lubrication. The upper head of the connecting rod 9 is mounted on a needle bearing.

Thread take-up mechanism(Fig. 18). The single rotating mechanism consists of a crank pin 1, a disk of the thread take-up lever 3, rigidly fixed with screws 2 on the pin, and the thread take-up itself - a part of a peculiar shape that is screwed to the lever. Adjustment mechanism is shown in the figure by arrows (P). The mechanism does not require lubrication.

Shuttle mechanism(Fig. 19). Unlike the machine shuttle mechanism 22-A class shuttle mechanism 97-A class made with automatic lubrication. From the main shaft, the rotation of the shuttle shaft 7 is transmitted by a system of toothed drums 1 and gears 4 and 5 through the transmission shaft 3, which is supported by a ball bearing and a bushing mounted in the holes of the platform tides.

The gear ratio from the main shaft to the transmission shaft is 1=1:1, and to the shuttle shaft 1:2. The gears are located in the crankcase with oil.

Mechanism It has device for automatic oil supply: from the crankcase to the shuttle 8 through the axial hole in the shuttle shaft.

Tissue Engine Mechanism(Fig. 20). The fabric engine 9 is fixed on the lever 8, which is pivotally connected to the rocker arm 7 of the advance shaft 6. The advance shaft receives rocking movements from the transmission shaft through the eccentric. The eccentric is covered by the head of the connecting rod 2, connected by means of a connecting link 3 with the rear rocker arm of the advance shaft. Device 4-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17 allows regulate stitch size and moving fabric from forward to reverse.

The fabric motor receives vertical movements from the lift shaft 21, which also receives rocking movements from the eccentric 18, mounted on the transmission shaft. The eccentric is covered by the head of the connecting rod 19, the other head of which is pivotally connected to the rocker arm 20 of the lift shaft.
The mechanism is characterized by the use of needle bearings, short articulated links.

For adjustments stitch value, press the platform button to the stopper with your left hand, locking the ring, and turn the main shaft of the machine by the flywheel with your right hand. Locations are marked on the diagram. adjustments(R). Dotted arrows show lubrication points.

Electric drive for industrial sewing machine

Unlike household sewing machines with manual or foot drive (some household machines supplied with electric drives), each industrial sewing machine equipped with an individual friction electric drive, which serves to turn on and off cars and adjustments her speed.

In universal sewing machines sewing speed changes smoothly. To do this, use the transmission of motion by friction: the wheels are brought together so that they are in close contact with each other. When the force pressing one wheel against another is weakened, one wheel begins to slip, the speed decreases! This is the principle of operation of the friction electric drive, it consists of an electric motor, a friction clutch, a transmission system, control equipment and electrical protection.

The kinematics of an individual friction drive is shown in Figure 21. When you press the foot pedal 12, the lever 10 rotates with the help of the chain. In this case, the sleeve 5, thanks to its slot 3, moves forward towards the electric motor 9 relative to the fixed finger 4. The disk 7, mounted on the shaft 2, enters into engagement with the 8G disk fixed on the motor shaft, and begins to rotate, transferring rotation to the main shaft with the help of a belt through a pulley cars. The lower the foot pressure of the worker on the pedal, the greater the slippage between discs 7 and 8, the lower the speed of the machine. When the pedal is lowered, the spring 11 returns the lever 10 and the sleeve 5 to their initial position, the disks 7 and 8 diverge and break the connection with the motor shaft. Brake 6 stops disc 7.

In special sewing machines and semi-automatic machines having an automatic stop, a frictionless electric drive is used.

Article based on site materials

Each sewing machine has its own instructions that are different from other brands of machines, but most economy class machines with a swinging shuttle (like a Seagull sewing machine): Brother, Jaguar, Singer, Veritas, Janome, Husqvarna and other brands have almost the same device.
Instructions for use, threading, switching operations, installing the bobbin case, lubrication and maintenance, etc. in the instructions for such sewing machines are almost the same.

The main parts of the sewing machine:
1. Knob for selecting the type of stitch. With this knob, you set the type of stitch you want: straight, darning, zigzag or offset needle for sewing on a zipper, sewing a buttonhole, etc.
2. Buttonhole fine adjustment screw. Not every machine has such an adjustment. It is designed to equalize the frequency (density) of the zigzag stitch when sewing a buttonhole. That is, in one of the directions the zigzag will be less frequent, so before making a loop, check it on a trim of the same fabric. And make adjustments if necessary.
3. Thread take-up lever.
4. Removable table with storage compartment for accessories.
5. Upper thread tension dial.

6. Button for moving the fabric in the opposite direction.
7. Thread trimmer. A very convenient device, but requires a certain habit. Usually they are rarely used, just forgetting about it, cutting the thread with scissors.
8. Presser foot adapter assembly.
9. Presser foot holder screw.
10. Presser foot.
11. Needle plate.
12. Shuttle knot.
13. Bobbin case.
14. Combs (rake) of the fabric conveyor.
15. Sewing needle.
16. Needle clamp screw.

17. Shuttle cover.
18. Rod for installing the coil.
19. Bobbin winder.
20. Flywheel.
21. Pedal socket.
22. Presser foot lever.
23. Power switch and backlight bulbs.
24. Built-in carrying handle.
25. Thread guide, thread tension regulator when winding on the bobbin.

Sewing machine accessories and accessories

1. Buttonhole foot. A special foot with which it is convenient to make buttonholes. The size of the buttonhole depends on the size of the button inserted into it. V inexpensive models sewing machines, buttonholes are sewn in 4 steps.
2. Zipper foot.
3. Foot for sewing on buttons.
4. A set of needles.
5. Double needle.
6. Bobbins.
7. Darning plate. This plate replaces the lever that lowers the toast. The plate is simply put on over the rail, hiding the teeth so that the fabric does not advance when the machine is running.
8. Screwdriver
9. Additional core for the coil. This pin is needed when using a twin needle, its purpose is to install a second spool of thread.
The accessories listed above are stored in a specially designed case inside the side table. These accessories are designed to make most sewing tasks easier.

Needle Installation Instructions

Before installing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine from the mains. This must be done especially for inexperienced, just beginning seamstresses.
1. Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet.
2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position.
3. Lower the presser foot.
4. If the needle is already installed, remove the needle o by loosening the needle clamp screw with your hand or a screwdriver and pulling the needle down.
5. Insert a new needle with the flat side facing the rear of the machine, sliding it as high as possible until it stops.
6. Tighten the needle clamp screw.

1. For high-quality sewing, the sewing needle must be straight and sharp.
2. To check the straightness of the needle, place it flat side down on a flat surface as shown.
3. If the needle is bent or dull, replace it. Never try to straighten or sharpen it. The metal from which the needle is made is not intended for this.
See Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair.

Depending on your work, you may need to replace the presser foot. Turn the power switch to the "O" position.

2. Release the presser foot by lifting the lever on the back of the presser foot holder assembly.
3. Place the foot on needle plate so that the cross bar of the presser foot is under the groove at the bottom of the presser foot holder.
4. Lower the presser foot lever, and attach the presser foot to the adapter. When the presser foot is in the correct position, the pin will snap into place in the adapter.

Reverse sewing machine. bartack

To sew in reverse, press the reverse sewing key all the way down and hold it in this position while lightly depressing the foot controller. Release the key to sew in the forward direction. Reverse sewing is used to secure and reinforce seams. You can use reverse feed for decorative stitching and darning of garments.

1. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin and pass the thread around the thread tension knob when winding the bobbin.
2. Pass the end of the thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
3. Place the bobbin on the winder shaft and slide the shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise by hand until the spring on the shaft fits into its groove on the bobbin.
4. While holding the end of the thread, gently depress the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few turns. Then stop the car.
5. Trim the excess thread above the bobbin, and while depressing the foot controller, continue winding the thread onto the bobbin. Note: When the bobbin is filled with thread, the machine stops automatically.
6. After the machine stops, cut the thread between the bobbin and the spool, slide the shaft to the left, and remove the wound bobbin from the shaft. Note: When the bobbin winder shaft is shifted towards the pressure roller, the needle bar is stationary, but the handwheel continues to rotate. Therefore, do not touch the handwheel while winding the bobbin.

In this video you will see how to wind a thread on a bobbin using a winder.

Threading the lower thread into the bobbin case

Turn the power switch to the "O" position.
1. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise), then raise the presser foot lever.
2. Open the bobbin cover behind the attachment table at the front of the machine, remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch towards you and removing it from the bobbin.
3. Unwind approximately 10 cm of thread from a fully wound bobbin, and insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. Pass the unwound end of the thread through the slot, then down and to the left until the thread enters the hole under the tension spring.
4. Holding the bobbin case by the latch, insert it into the hook as far as it will go, then release the latch. Make sure that the bobbin case pin fits into the groove on the top of the hook. Note: If the bobbin case is incorrectly inserted into the machine, it will fall out of the hook immediately after sewing starts.

1. Raise the presser foot lever using the appropriate lever, and turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position.
2. Pull up the spool pin and put the spool of thread on it.
3. Pass the thread through both thread guides, first through the back thread guide and then through the front thread guide.
4. Draw the thread down and around the upper thread tension knob from right to left until the thread catches the thread stop spring. Hold the thread and pull it between the tension discs.
5. Guide the thread to the back of the thread take-up lever and around it from right to left. Pass the thread through the slit, pulling it towards you until it enters the thread take-up eye.
6. Pull the thread down and pass it behind the thread guide.
7. Thread the eye of the needle from front to back and pull out about 5 cm of thread. Note: If the thread is not threaded correctly, it may break, skip stitches, or wrinkle the fabric.

If your sewing machine does not have an instruction manual and you do not know how to use it, then you can use this simplified and universal manual. This manual is suitable for any economy-class sewing machine with an oscillating hook that performs a minimum set of operations.

In this article, you will learn how the engine of a modern household sewing machine, located inside its body, works. In order to replace or perform preventive maintenance on this sewing motor, it is often necessary to disassemble the body of the sewing machine.
For an ordinary user, this article will be useful only as information about the device of a household sewing machine, since only a master (electrician) should disassemble the body of a sewing machine, and even more so, disassemble the electric drive.
In any case, after repairing the electric motor or the sewing machine pedal, never leave it connected to the mains unattended for a long time.

It looks like the electric motor of a household sewing machine disassembled.

Video how to disassemble the electric drive of a household sewing machine.

How to remove the motor pulley

The motor pulley is most often fixed to the shaft with a screw. There is a saw cut on the shaft, into which this screw rests.

But there are other types of fastening the pulley to the motor shaft, which complicates the replacement of such a drive. In this case, you will have to buy an original (branded) drive or have it repaired if possible.

Motor brushes

Sometimes brushes can cause engine failure. In such a case, replacing them may restore the operation of the sewing motor.

Most often, they can be removed without disassembling the motor housing. It is enough to unscrew the plastic similar bushings and pull out the brushes along with the springs.

In this case, the brushes are already worn out, but they are quite functional and do not need to be changed.

How to disassemble the sewing motor housing

After you have removed the brushes, you can begin to inspect other parts of the engine inside.
Usually, this requires unscrewing two nuts at the front and two at the back, tightening the two ladles of the body together.

Carefully remove the front half of the case.

Please note that this motor model does not have bearings. Instead, bushings are installed, the inner surface of which must be lubricated.

Be sure to pay attention to the number and sequence of installation of washers on the shaft.

Now you can carefully pull the motor rotor out of the stator and inspect it.

Preventive inspection of internal engine parts

The winding turns should be light, not have melted and burned areas.
The collector surface must be smooth and clean.

The turns of the stator winding must also be light and clean, without melted and darkened areas.

The sleeve located on the back of the case also needs to be lubricated with one or two drops of sewing oil.

The polluted (burned) surface of the collector must be cleaned with a piece of ordinary thick paper (not sandpaper).

Electric motor contacts

If the sewing machine is quite old and has "worked" a lot, the wiring and various kinds of contacts connecting the motor to the network may be the cause of the malfunction of the electric drive.
Firstly, the contacts can be highly oxidized and need to be cleaned, now with sandpaper.

Contacts with screw fastening can also oxidize and even break off.

Make sure that everything is in order in the wiring, sewing pedal, connectors before disassembling the sewing machine motor.

Many household sewing machines are equipped with the TUR-2 brand electric drive. This reliable engine but sometimes it needs preventive maintenance.

The device of the sewing electric drive of friction type. How to choose the right type and power of the engine for industrial machine.

The sewing electric drive of any industrial machine has not only a different speed control design (friction), but also a different wiring diagram, the principle of operation of the electric motor.
Household models of electric drives have low power from 40 to 110 watts, low rotation speed and asynchronous type of motor operation. In other words, a household electric motor does not withstand large and prolonged loads and requires periodic "respite". The sewing engine of an industrial machine can work for days without a break, without overheating and without losing speed.

If you need a machine for mass sewing, then immediately think about a good suitable drive. According to the ads, you can buy cheap used tables with Soviet-made engines. These are reliable and efficient electric drives and perhaps these are exactly what you should use. But keep in mind that they all work very noisily, and this noise cannot be eliminated by any adjustment. Therefore, we recommend purchasing immediately good drive, for example, a table and a drive that come with a Typical sewing machine. And it is precisely such a sewing electric drive that we will consider in detail in this article.

The typical electric sewing drive can be bought separately and installed on any industrial table, but it is better to purchase it as a set with the table, especially since the table itself is cheaper than the motor.
By the way, a convenient sewing table can also be bought for a household sewing machine. A comfortable spacious table, and at the same time a cutting and sewing table will make your work more comfortable, which will definitely affect your mood and, accordingly, the quality of work. If there is an opportunity and you have to sew a lot, never neglect such "little things".

Even such an insignificant detail as an electric drive switch creates comfort in work and influences mood.

Motor power and mains voltage

On the front side of the motor is a tag that indicates the mains voltage and motor power.
If you are going to install the machine at home or in a small studio where there is no 380 volt outlet, choose an electric motor to work from a 220 volt network.
And the engine power in this example does not really matter, since the speed of the machine depends on other factors. We will talk about this a little lower.

What is a friction drive? If you drive a car yourself, then you should know what a clutch is. So the clutch of the sewing electric drive is arranged in a similar way.
The motor rotates constantly at the same speed. When you press the pedal, the friction device disk (ferado) with textolite pads approaches the motor flywheel and interacts with it. The tighter you press the clutch disc against the flywheel of the electric motor, the better their grip and the higher the speed. Therefore, sometimes from prolonged work at a slow speed, the smell of burnt textolite appears.

The degree of free play (without force) of the drive pedal is adjusted by this wing screw.

But with this screw, or rather with two screws (one more on the reverse side), the brakes are adjusted. Yes, exactly the brakes, almost like a car.
If you work for high speed, then after stopping the sewing machine by inertia, it will continue to rotate. Therefore, a brake is needed, which immediately stops the already unnecessary rotation. It is this screw with a locknut that regulates the degree of "sharpness" of the brake.
We did not upload a photo of the engine clutch device, an electrician should repair the engine, but you need to be able to regulate its operation with your own hands.

The height of the lift or the angle of the pedal is best adjusted here.

What determines the speed of an industrial sewing machine

The speed of an industrial sewing machine depends primarily on the number of revolutions of the electric motor. This parameter can be found on the tag or in the drive data sheet. But such details are of interest only to specialists in factory tailoring. For small manufacturers, this parameter of the engine is of secondary importance, since there is another way to adjust the speed of the industrial sewing machine.

Namely, by changing the engine pulley. The larger the pulley diameter, the higher the maximum speed of the sewing machine.
It is not difficult to change the pulley, for this you need a key for 19 and the pulley itself, which is usually attached to the engine. But note that you will have to adjust the length of the drive belt, and in many cases it will have to be a different diameter.

No matter how good an industrial drive is, even such a modern, almost silent and beautiful one like Typical, but it is not always needed. This applies to seamstresses. They often work at home on industrial sewing machines such as class 1022, class 97. For various reasons, but primarily the increased noise of operation, they cannot use them.

To solve this problem simply and inexpensively, buy the TUR-2 electric drive and install it directly on the body of an industrial machine. We will not explain how to install, in each case you have to use your own solution. But we can advise, if necessary, instead of a plug, solder the wires as shown in the photo.
In addition, if the position of the windings is resoldered in places in such an engine, the engine will rotate in the opposite direction. This advice will come in handy when connecting an overlock to such a drive.
But all these tips are intended only for an electrician, we highly recommend that amateurs do not disassemble the engine on their own, and, moreover, change or solder anything there. There is not only a direct danger of electric shock, but also a hidden one. It shows up after a long time. From overheating of the motor windings, even when the sewing machine is not working, but connected to the network, ignition of the windings can occur.

Other brands of electric motors can also be installed on industrial machines, but we only recommend what we have tested, namely the TUR-2 electric drive.
And do not forget that the speed of the machine is noticeably reduced and you can sew on it for a short time, taking long breaks (pauses).

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic case of the machine in order to gain access to some nodes. This need is very rare and occurs only when the sewing machine motor needs to be replaced or drive belt. However, to replace the electric drive, it is sometimes enough to remove only the bottom and side covers. But to eliminate the "jamming" will have to disassemble the machine completely.

In this article, you will learn how to find the cause of a malfunctioning electric drive, as well as how to replace the electric motor yourself.

Typically, power sewing problems start with the pedal, not the motor. However, we do not recommend disassembling the pedal yourself. Handle the pedal with care, do not twist the wires, do not "stand" on them with the leg of a chair, and generally remember that electric current passes through these wires, with a voltage of 220 volts.

Sewing manual machine - drive device and repair
A hand sewing machine is simply irreplaceable when sewing thick fabrics and even leather. But the manual drive is so inconvenient that there is no desire to use it. However, this situation is easy to fix if you buy a sewing electric drive along with a pedal and a drive belt in the kit. Each electric motor has a regular mount, which allows it to be installed even on a manual sewing machine.

The foot drive of the sewing machine in our time is more of a museum piece. It rattles, knocks, and the legs get tired. In addition, often the machine starts to spin in the wrong direction. How to refuse to use it if the Chaika or Podolskaya typewriter suits you perfectly? You just need to install a sewing motor. Each Seagull has a mount for it. The electric drive itself costs only twice as much as a new foot drive belt.

The zigzag attachment for a sewing machine is an ingenious device that imitates the execution of a zigzag stitch with a conventional Podolsk-type lock-stitch machine.

In this article, you will learn why a machine with a horizontal shuttle loops and how to fix this sewing stitch defect with your own hands.

The sewing machine will not sew if the handwheel friction washer is not installed correctly or bushings, etc., have rusted during long periods of storage.

Each model of a household sewing machine has its own set of legs. Detailed description use of presser feet for household sewing machines Janome company.

To work with natural leather, you need special tools, accessories for installing accessories, adhesives and other applied materials.