The acquisition of an "iron horse" is an exciting and problematic business in many respects, especially for beginners. And when it comes to buying a used car, it can also be very dangerous. An owner can provide an advertisement for the sale of a car with stories about a miracle car in perfect condition and with zero mileage, but in reality, buyers often face hidden breakdowns and a completely repainted body.

To avoid such troubles, it is worth preparing in advance for choosing a vehicle. Tips on how to choose a used car will help the buyer not become a hostage to the situation.

How to choose a used car

You should not think "I will spend 300,000, but I will buy at least something." Before starting the search for a car, it is recommended to choose 3-4 brands to your liking, or at least decide on a class. This will allow you to define a niche and not waste time on useless meetings.

The choice of a car depends entirely on its purpose and the financial capabilities of the buyer.

So, the choice of a car class depends on the purpose for which it is purchased:

1. For commuting city ​​car). Suitable cars class A-B not older than 10 years. The maximum allowable mileage is 200 thousand km. Gasoline consumption of such a car is 5-7 liters. Your choice is best left on the front wheel drive.
2. Taxi work. A potential taxi driver will suit an “iron horse” of class C with a mileage of no more than 100 thousand km. It is recommended to take front-wheel drive with good suspension condition. Consumption in the city - 7-8 liters. Ideally, this is a car of a European or Japanese manufacturer.
3. Travels. For active travelers, a D-class sedan from Japan or Korea would be an ideal solution. These are already more solid cars, which can also be affordable. The recommended mileage is less than 100 thousand km. Preferably with air conditioning, cruise control and automatic box gears.
4. Movement over rough terrain (hunting, fishing, frequent trips to nature). For such purposes, it is better to buy an SUV. Preference should be given to models from Japan or Germany. Despite the high cost and increased consumption fuel, cars of this class are more reliable and less subject to running gear wear.

Where to find a used car

You can, of course, try to find a car through friends or trust word of mouth. But it is best to turn to trusted sources. As a rule, used cars are found in dealerships or through specialized Internet services.

Dealer centers

Official dealers of various manufacturers located throughout Russia sell not only new cars. Through them it is quite possible to buy a car with mileage in good condition. For this you need:

• Find an official dealer of the brand you like in your city;
• Find out if used cars are sold there and contact the salon for advice;
• Select a model and check its condition (it is best to drive it to another dealership for an impartial assessment).

To find an official dealer, it is better to use the Internet

Internet Services

It is best to choose a car not on the regional portal, but on the federal one, that is, working throughout Russia. This way you can compare prices across the country. Among the proven online services for finding cars, the following should be highlighted:

1. Auto.ru. One of the oldest used car search portals has been operating for about 20 years, and is constantly developing. Now most ads from Auto.ru are duplicated on auto.yandex.ru, making the site even more popular.
2. Avito.ru. The largest ad portal in Russia with a simple interface and convenient choice ads. Here you can buy not only used, but also new car. There are minor inconveniences - for example, the service does not allow you to select several models of different brands at once.
3. Drom.ru. A portal aimed specifically at buying / selling cars. It has been on the market for 16 years. At the beginning of development was aimed only at Japanese cars, but over time turned into the most extensive database for all car classes. The site has an extensive forum for car enthusiasts where you can discuss a particular brand or seller.
4. Carsguru.net. Quite a popular portal, which is only gaining momentum. At the beginning of the journey, it was aimed only at the Moscow market, but over time, new regions appeared.
5. Cars.ru. A young Internet service with an eight-year history. The main goal is the purchase and sale of used cars.

What to ask on the phone

You can weed out a lot of dubious ads already at the stage of calling the owners, if you ask the right questions. So, by phone, you can ask:

1. “Are you the owner of the car or an intermediary?” This question will clarify which nuances can be found here and now, and which ones will have to be clarified at the meeting. The owner must know everything about the car from A to Z, while the intermediary knows only superficial information.
2. “Are you selling the car under a notarized power of attorney or will I conclude a deal with a third person - the owner himself?” The question follows from the previous one and is asked to the mediator. If the interlocutor answers "I have a copy of the owner's passport, we will draw up the contract in the office" - run. With a high degree of probability, this is an outbid, which, along with the car, took from the owner a copy of the passport and a receipt for receiving money.
3. “How long has the car been with the same owner?” Frequent resales in a short period should alert the buyer. A car is not resold so often without good reason - perhaps technical condition leaves much to be desired.
4. "Have there been any recent accidents?" If the car was in a serious accident, then the body will be quite difficult to restore. Costly repairs may be required, so selling the vehicle may be a simple attempt to get rid of it.
5. "Has the car been painted?" In the case of a positive answer, there are suspicions that in this way the owner tried to hide rust on the body or traces of serious repairs.
6. “At the moment, what investments are required in the car in terms of bodywork and running gear?” It is in the interests of the seller to answer honestly, because these nuances will still become clear during the inspection. The answer will help you immediately calculate the total cost of purchasing a car and its repair.
7. “Is the price final or is there reasonable bargaining?” Be sure to clearly and loudly say out loud the price indicated in the ad. The seller is also a person and may well seal up when submitting an ad, so it’s better to clarify misunderstandings right away.

A phone call allows you to cut off suspicious sellers and save time on meetings

Despite such a thorough preliminary analysis, it is not worth making a final decision only on the basis of the results of a telephone conversation. It allows you to weed out dubious options. Worthy options must be examined on the spot.

It is important! The more potential sellers the buyer calls, the better. So he will be able to form his own idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe modern market, current supply and demand.

What to look for when buying

It is better for inexperienced motorists to take with them a trusted specialist who understands cars and could draw conclusions about the technical condition of the facility. Additionally, it is recommended to take with you:

• Small lantern;
• Thickness gauge;
• Small mirror;
• A set of screwdrivers and keys, a candle key;
• Clean rag.

The owner should have some items in stock, but it's better to play it safe and take your own.

Verification of documents

The very first detail when meeting with a potential seller is checking the documents for the vehicle. You need to carefully study:

1. PTS. If the place of issue in the passport is Customs or individual means the document is original. If issued by the traffic police department, the passport is a duplicate, even if it is not marked anywhere. In addition, the PTS checks for the presence of corporate embossing and watermarks.
2. OSAGO policy. It checks the number of motorists who have the right to drive a car. In addition, the presence of a mark on the possibility of using the car as a taxi is checked.
3. Registration certificate. STS will tell the details of the owner, the exact date vehicle registration with the traffic police, engine size and power. It is also necessary to verify the VIN number with what is stuffed on the body.
4. VIN number. It must be recorded and checked on the official website of the traffic police for the history of registrations, the presence of an accident, as well as finding a car wanted. Pay special attention to the number of fines, since if they exist, problems may arise with registering the vehicle.

The VIN number indicated on the body must be checked against the one indicated in the PTS and STS

You should not be afraid of a duplicate TCP, since the original can really be lost. However, there may be a catch in this option: for example, the car is involved in fraudulent activities, or the number of owners exceeds the number of fields in the Title.

Body inspection

The body is the most voluminous, noticeable and expensive part machine, so it is necessary to inspect it as carefully as possible. At the beginning it is worth going from the right front wing to the left front, paying attention to all the details. Inspection features include:

1. Examining the wings one by one. They should be smooth, without dents, without smudges of paint and varnish. If traces of painting are found, draw the attention of the seller to this and find out the reason. Perhaps the owner just wanted to change the color of the car or paint over minor scratches. In this case, you need to make sure that the paint is of high quality.
2. Inspection of the roof and its pillars. These parts must not be painted. Racks are load-bearing elements, and the roof is a very vulnerable part of the car body. If there was damage to these parts, the vehicle was most likely seriously damaged in an accident.
3. Checking doors. Doors (like the bumper) are difficult to keep unpainted, especially when operating a vehicle in metropolitan areas. Be sure to check the quality of painting. In addition, all doors must close completely with the same sound and effort.
4. Checking spars. Their color on both sides should be the same. If the nodes were repaired, then it is better to refuse the vehicle.
5. Thickness gauge measurements. To check the machine, it is recommended to rent a thickness gauge to find out exactly which parts have been painted. For the reliability of measurements, it is recommended to check in advance on the Internet the thickness of the paint of various body elements of this vehicle model.

The error when using the thickness gauge will be in any case, so it is recommended to take several measurements in a row, and then calculate the arithmetic mean

You should also make sure that there are no inscriptions and stickers on any part of the body. Usually they are masking significant damage. For the same purpose, fenders, plastic sills, moldings, spoilers and various linings are used.

Chassis

Self-diagnosis of a used car requires a mandatory check of the chassis. The most successful option is to drive the car onto a flyover or inspection hole and inspect it from below. It is necessary to diagnose the following nodes:

1. Levers and bushings. Parts should not be worn out, and also have cracks and chips. You can pull the suspension arm towards you and check that it springs back into place. The sleeve must not rotate in the lugs.
2. Silent blocks. Check the part for knocking, gaps and mechanical damage. If there are cracks in the metal parts or tears in the rubber, replacement will be required. In this case, you can safely ask the seller for a discount on future maintenance.
3. Stabilizer's pole. To check them, a pry bar or an iron stick is placed between the subframe and the bushing stabilizer. If the bushing is very old, the stabilizer will wobble.
4. Brake pads. They should not have wear and rusty areas. If the buyer inspects the car on "stampings" instead of alloy wheels, you will have to remove the wheel to fully explore the system. Additionally, you should pay attention to the brake disc.

Carefully examine the condition of the suspension units with a flashlight

The easiest, but more expensive way to check the chassis is to go with the seller and the car to a car service. True, in such situations, the buyer will have to pay for the diagnostics from his own funds.

Inspection of the salon

Checking the interior occurs mainly visually. It is necessary to inspect the panel, upholstery, covers and make sure that they are intact. Further worth exploring:

• Seat adjustment (especially automatic);
• Driver's seat (it should not be failed and have a wobbly back);
• Wipers, steering wheel, power windows, heated seats, air conditioning and other options.

The condition of the steering wheel, shift lever and seats can tell a lot about the mileage.

Some elements are allowed to have scuffs (for example, on the steering wheel or pedals), but their degree must correspond. Covers or a ceiling burnt by a cigarette are already a reason for bargaining.

After inspecting the interior, it will not be superfluous to ask the owner for the keys and try to start the car. Feel the key turn and the engine start.

Engine inspection

The motor should be visually inspected. Malfunctions can be:

• Oil leaks on it;
• Traces from the palms at the joints, sealant stains;
• Perfectly clean engine, as if it had just been washed.

The last point may signal that they are trying to hide something from the buyer. A conventional motor should ideally be dirty, and its recent washing is suspicious. Fresh and too viscous oil indicates its gravy or a recent change, which may indicate an attempt to divert the attention of the buyer from significant defects.

Start the car and listen to the operation of the internal combustion engine

After a visual inspection, the engine is checked in the running state. Before it is fully warmed up, it is worth looking into expansion tank. If bubbles appear there, the head gasket is bad. The engine in running condition should not have oil and antifreeze smudges. It is also worth making sure that there are no extraneous metallic sounds. Turnovers during operation should not “float”.

Test Drive

After inspection, a mandatory test drive follows. Ideally, the buyer himself should drive the car. The verification will be phased:

To test the machine, there is another trick: stand on the segment smooth road, activate position D, press the brake pedal with one foot, and sharply press the gas with the other. If the car immediately turns off, then the box and engine are working correctly.

So, you already know the most important thing for choosing a quality car. It remains only to sum up new information and take out the key points:

1. The slightest malfunctions are a reason for bargaining. Even a small hole from a cigarette on the case will help to drop the price a little, not to mention incorrect work main nodes.
2. Be on the lookout and don't think that someone will sell perfect car at low price. A person who urgently needs money can sell a car through an intermediary and immediately receive money. The rest of the cars with a low price tag are sold after an accident, legal problems, or are sold by scammers.
3. If there is no self-confidence, it is better to take the car to the service for diagnostics. Additionally, you can check the electrics and carefully study the chassis.
4. You don't have to spend all your money on buying a car. At least 10-15% of cash is recommended to be left for unforeseen expenses (registration with the traffic police, purchase of an OSAGO policy, replacement of consumables). Otherwise, the family budget may suffer.
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Uncertainty is the main source of stress. To avoid this, professional buyers of used cars take various effective measures. We invite you to learn how to choose a used car for yourself just like the professionals do. Our advice will help you avoid disappointment after purchasing a car.

The most important thing in the process of purchasing any used car is not to rush. The fact that you can not choose a car for yourself for a long time is nothing to worry about. You should not hurry, even if at the moment you are forced to move public transport. The main thing is patience.

Remember that rushing can lead to either buying a problematic car or buying a car you don't need at all.

Also, before looking for and buying a car, you should plan everything carefully: determine exactly the make and model of the car, determine your maximum possible budget, as well as a list of the necessary vehicle options that you need.

Since a used car is no longer new and is usually no longer covered by the manufacturer's warranty, you should consider the mileage and condition of the car when choosing a car. That is why before you should conduct a complete check and diagnosis of it.

Here are some tips to help you choose a used car in the best possible condition for its age and mileage.

Plan your car inspection

Regardless of who you want to buy a used car from (dealership, dealer, individual), you should bring a car mechanic you trust with you to the inspection.

An experienced car mechanic will help you find hidden problems in the car, signs of malfunctions and many other possible defects. So you should not take a non-professional with you, who, as much as possible, what he can do when inspecting the car, is to knock on the wheels with his feet.

Most likely, if you buy a car at a car dealership or from an authorized dealer, you will be denied additional diagnostics of the car, because it was already done before the sale. In this case, you must submit a full report on the technical diagnostics of the car.

The only thing you will not be refused is to carry out, which you naturally must do together with your auto mechanic friend.

If the car is sold by a private person, then you must definitely offer the owner a comprehensive car diagnostics. Preferably from an authorized dealer. If the seller does not agree to go to a car service for diagnostics, then you should refuse to purchase his car, as there are huge risks that the car is in poor technical condition.

Also note that the seller may offer you to drive to his car service (where, for example, the car was serviced). We advise you not to agree to such proposals, since the owner of the car may have an agreement in such a workshop.

Therefore, diagnostics should be carried out only in the technical center that you offer.

True, it is worth noting that, as a rule, car diagnostics should be done at your expense. So before you go to the service to pay for the diagnosis, you must do a thorough inspection of the car and decide on a further inspection of the car in the auto repair shop. If at the stage of inspection something alerted you, etc., then we advise you not to waste time and money on further technical diagnostics cars. Better to keep looking for the next option.

Remember that diagnosing a used car at a car service, although it will not be cheap, can save you a lot of money after buying a car.

The main thing: If you buy a car from a dealer, this does not mean that the car is completely in perfect condition. Even if the car dealership provides a car additional warranty. In most cases, all used vehicles that are listed for sale at a dealer meet a minimum set of reliability and safety criteria. The fact is that most dealers, before buying a car, carry out minimal technical diagnostics.

In case of detection of malfunctions that affect safety, the car will, of course, be repaired. But, unfortunately, not all are often eliminated. technical problems. And even on used cars that are covered.

So do not think that buying a used car from a dealer, you get it in perfect condition.

The only plus of buying a car from a dealer is checking its legal frequency, and it is also possible that complete history vehicle maintenance. True, not all dealers in Russia are conscientious. Including you should not trust the manager of a car dealership if he convinces you that the car has not been beaten or painted. It is better to check this information using a special device that measures the thickness paintwork bodies, as well as using online Internet services for checking cars for accidents (site gibdd.ru and avtokod.ru)

A good suspension shouldn't make any noise.

Once you've made sure the car's electrical system is working properly, the climate control is working, the stereo system is also in proper working order, and so on. it's time to check the condition of the suspension on a rough road. So get ready to train your ear. While driving, you should carefully listen to how the suspension works in the car on rough roads. You should catch any extraneous sounds (pops, squeaks, knocks, clicks, etc.).

Remember that in a car with a working undercarriage even on a rough road there should not be any extraneous noise. If you hear some strange sounds on a rough road, then most likely there is a malfunction in the suspension.

The most common sources of extraneous sounds in the suspension are ball joints, rod connections and arm bushings. So while testing the car on potholes, be on your guard.

The main thing: With rear wheel drive, then in addition to the chassis, you should check the health of the rear differential, which may be worn out.

To do this, you must select a roundabout and drive through it at low speed. Any ringing, creaking, cutting, etc. in the back of the car, while passing roundabout, should alert you.

Especially if while driving you get the impression that the rear wheels do not receive constant torque. It is possible with these signs that the rear differential in the car is worn out.

You should also check steering. To do this, you must, in a stationary vehicle (with the engine running), turn wheel completely to the end (first in one direction, then in the other). Knocking and grinding, perhaps, will tell you that the steering rack is worn out in the car.

If at the moment you turn the steering wheel you hear a piercing howl or the steering wheel is very heavy, then the hydraulic or electric power steering is probably faulty in the car.

Scan the vehicle for electronic faults

The main thing: For diagnostics, you can buy your own "On Board Diagnostics" (OBD) scanner. There are many inexpensive scanners on the market today. The scanner connects to the OBD port, which is located either under the steering wheel or in the glove box or under the glove box in the car. By connecting to the machine, you will be able to read the codes of all faults. Do not spare money for the purchase of a diagnostic scanner. It will come in handy for more than just buying a car. In the future, the scanner will be useful to you during the operation of the car.

Check Consumables

Tires. Brake pads, calipers, brake discs. Filters, etc. All cars have many parts that are consumable components, as they require periodic replacement. That is why they are called consumable parts of the car (consumables).

Remember that by checking the condition of all consumables, during the process of inspecting the car, you will be able to roughly calculate how much money you will have to spend to replace worn out consumables after purchasing the car. Also, information on the state of consumables will help you, possibly during negotiations with the owner of the car, who, at your request, can slightly reduce the price of the car.

The main thing: When inspecting tires, pads and brake discs take into account the power of the car. If the inspected vehicle has powerful engine, a brake pads, discs, etc. worn out by 75 percent, then be prepared to change these components, because due to the performance of the vehicle, these components will wear out quite quickly.

timing belt

Most cars in the engine design have a timing belt (engine timing belt), which, like many components, requires periodic replacement at a certain time interval, which is set by the automaker.

The task of any owner is to prevent its breakage and damage. Therefore, the timing belt must be replaced before the slightest wear of this component.

Remember that if it is not replaced on time, then if it breaks, the car engine may fail. So don't skimp on the timing belt. Replacing a belt is cheaper than rebuilding an engine.

So before you buy a car, you should ask the owner when the timing belt was last changed. If the belt has not been changed for some reason, it is necessary to clarify the procedure for replacing it, established by the vehicle manufacturer.

If during the process of purchasing a car you find out that the timing belt needs to be replaced, then you can safely ask the owner to give up the price by the amount needed to replace the belt.

Ideally, of course, the timing belt should be replaced before you buy a car.

The main thing: In order to know how much to try to reduce the owner of the car if it is necessary to replace the timing belt, call several technical centers and official dealers to find out the cost of replacing the timing belt in technical centers your region.

So you can reasonably try to bargain with the owner for a lower price.

Should I buy an extended warranty on a used car?

Currently, many used cars are sold with an extended dealer warranty, which, like the factory one, can cover you for any expenses associated with the breakdown of the purchased car. Typically, such a guarantee is provided for cars that have just recently expired factory warranty, age of which does not exceed 5 years, and mileage does not exceed 120 thousand km.

Few people know, but such an extended warranty is provided not only for vehicles offered for sale by a dealer, but also on any used vehicle you purchase from individuals that meets the terms of the official dealership program.

That is, you can take the car from your hands and bring it to the dealer for a comprehensive diagnosis. After due diligence technical condition of the car, you may be offered to buy an additional warranty on the car for a fee.

Basically, you can buy insurance against possible breakdowns machines during operation. True, it is worth noting that such a guarantee may not be very cheap.

But, nevertheless, it is a great alternative to the factory warranty.

Unfortunately, each dealer has their own extended warranty policy, which should be carefully reviewed. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the extended warranty may not cover the failure of many components. This is especially true for consumable parts, as well as various diagnostic work, which, as a rule, the owners of used cars with an extended warranty are paid at their own expense.

So, whether to buy an extended warranty for a car, everyone should decide for himself. In some cases, the purchase of such a guarantee carries unjustified expenses. In other cases, purchasing an extended warranty can protect you from high repair costs. Especially, the cost of maintaining which may be unreasonably expensive.

After all, repairing premium cars can be more expensive than the cost of a one-year extended warranty.

The main thing: If you have a normal financial wealth, and also have some savings in your bank account that you can easily spend on car maintenance and repairs if necessary, then in most cases it makes no sense for you to purchase insurance to cover possible losses associated with a car breakdown.

Leave 10-15% for repairs and unexpected expenses. They will definitely be, even if the car is a year old and it is under warranty. Otherwise, the family budget will quickly begin to collapse.

2. Don't choose a car on the principle of "something for 400,000 rubles"

Determine for yourself 2-3 models that you will look for. This will help you not to be scattered and not to make a rash decision on emotions. Plus, you can study the selected models on the forums, find out typical problems, service periods and sort out the intricacies. All this will make your search much easier.

3. Calculate the average price for the car you are interested in

Most precisely, this can be done manually, remembering the mathematics for the fifth grade, or using the Price Statistics tab on the Avto.ru website. Knowing average price, it will be easier for you to think sensibly, bargain and not fall into the hands of scammers and resellers.

4. Don't expect someone to sell a good car for less than the average price.

If a person urgently needs money, he sells the car through intermediaries and instantly receives money. All other cars that are sold at a reduced price, beaten or with legal problems. Or is it a scammer ad.

5. The first conclusions about the car can be made from the ad

If it contains disgusting photos and a description of two lines like “All questions by phone”, “Everything is on time, the car is in perfect condition” and so on, you don’t even have to call. In 95% of cases, this is a reseller.

6. Talking on the phone gives a lot of information and saves time

Ask specific questions that cannot be answered in general. For example, at which dealer did the car pass MOT? When was the oil last changed? What's new in the car? Is the PTS original? How many owners are recorded in the PTS? How long does a person own a car by Title? Is the interlocutor the owner or helping someone with the sale? Whether there is a service book, order-orders and checks? Etc.

7. Before inspecting the machine, always check the documents

This can be done on the traffic police website or avtokod.mos.ru if the car is from Moscow or the Moscow region. You can find out if the car is pledged on the website of the Federal Notary Chamber.

8. Keep track of new offers

The best cars sell out in days or even hours. So if you want to get the most good car at the most attractive price, subscribe to updates on the model you are interested in in the Avto or Avto.ru mobile applications and constantly follow them.

9. When buying a car in a car dealership, carefully read all the clauses of the contract

It should not take more than 5-6 pages. If they brought you a contract, then took it away and brought it again, read it again: there may be changes that are unfavorable for you. If you buy a car on credit, read the conditions with triple attention. Unofficial dealers are very fond of including hidden fees in the price and taking a commission for refusing a deal.

10. To inspect the machine, rent a thickness gauge

Look online to find out what paint thickness a particular car model should have and measure it at the time of inspection. True, the thickness gauge is not a panacea, since sometimes cars are painted specifically for the device or minor damage is repaired according to CASCO.

You need to look to see if the gaps are the same on different sides of the car, if the paint is knocked off the bolts, if there are traces of paint on the seals and moldings, if the shagreen and tone of the paint differ on different parts, if the stampings fit together, if the headlights and glass are the same, is it symmetrical worn tires.

11. Don't trust the odometer

Best of all, the mileage of the car gives out the condition of the interior: the driver's seat, steering wheel, armrest and gearshift lever.

12. When you test drive, pay attention to all the little things.

Check whether the steering wheel is level, whether the car is pulling away during acceleration and braking, whether something is knocking in the suspension, whether the air conditioner and electrical equipment are working.

13. Drive the car into service before buying

If you liked the car in all respects and you have no doubts, before concluding a sales contract, be sure to go to the service and diagnose at least the suspension. Ideally, even an engine with an electrician. This will cost a maximum of a couple of thousand rubles, but it will save you from buying a car in poor condition. In many cases, diagnostics allows you to identify those problems, due to which you can bargain well and certainly recapture its cost.

14. You can conclude a sales contract and make changes to the TCP yourself

The main thing is that with one pen and one handwriting. It is better to transfer money to a pre-opened account through a bank cash desk. This will protect against fakes and fraud.

The used car market is growing every year for economic reasons. It enables most people to buy a car at an affordable and adequate price.

If everything were so simple, at the same time there is a big risk of buying a car in which you will have to invest additional funds unplanned. And sometimes this amount can exceed the cost of the car. How to choose a used car? How to protect your finances and make right choice used cars?

Car search features

Choosing a car is a responsible and especially risky business when it comes to a used car. Such a purchase can be compared to a dark horse that will either pleasantly surprise or disappoint. In order to become a happy car owner, you need to choose and select a car carefully, following certain rules.

The search for a car begins with determining the amount that you plan to spend on the purchase. You will have to take into account that usually another 25% must be added to the allocated budget.

The difference will include car refurbishment costs, registration, insurance, technical inspection, etc. Also, when buying a used car, a small repair is likely, so to speak, bringing it “to mind”.

After resolving the financial aspect, you can proceed to direct searches. Offers for the sale of a used car can be found in newspaper ads, on specialized sites and in the car markets themselves.

Don't be in a hurry to make a choice. No need to rush to the first suitable offer. Compose for yourself list suitable options , some of them will disappear by themselves during the first telephone conversation with the seller.

Rules and questions when choosing a car

The right questions to the seller used by the car will save time. We can say that the choice begins precisely at this stage of the negotiations. And, the main thing that should worry at this moment is legal purity of the transaction. Therefore, it is necessary to ask the following questions regarding the used car you like:

Choosing a car based on just one phone call is unreasonable. The conversation will only help to discard the "doubtful" options. And the cars that passed the selection will need to be scrutinize when viewed directly.

The more calls made, the better. Thus, there will be an objective idea of ​​the market, prices, sellers. It is likely that desired car will be found.

Car inspection

If you have little experience in such matters, then it is better to take a reliable and proven pro with you, who will help you assess the technical condition of the machine. You must also take with you:

When inspecting the car must be perfectly clean.

car body

First of all, carefully inspect the right and left side of the car, its roof and hood separately. This is done while squatting, at the level of the headlights. There should be no deformation, line or color defects.

All doubtful places can be checked with a magnet, if it does not hold, it means that they ran into putty. It is necessary to carefully inspect the entire surface of the body car.

Suspicions can be caused by various "stickers" that mask defects. These can be plastic thresholds, moldings, linings, etc.

Doors must be closed with easy movement from the first time and with a characteristic sound. If this is not the case, then there is a violation of the geometry of the body.

Can the car be repainted? install on the remnants of paint on plastic and rubber body elements. For example, the shade of paint under the seals will be different. Under them, you can also find the first signs of metal corrosion.

Inspection of the salon

Visually check the surface for damage to panels, upholstery, covers, etc. Particular attention should be paid to seat adjustment, especially if it is automatic. driver's seat must not be deformed, for example, failed. The back should not hang out.

Everything needs to be looked at: steering wheel, wipers, switches, power windows, including additional options(heated seats, stove, mirror adjustment, air conditioning).

Chassis. There should be no play on the steering wheel and wheels that can be seen with the naked eye. It is also necessary to inspect the covers of the suspension and steering joints. There should be no cracks on the discs.

If the tires are unevenly worn, then this may indicate a violation of the geometry of the body or suspension.

Check shock absorbers for leaks, rubber bumpers and anthers should be intact. Need to look carefully brake hose fittings and cylinders.

Engine check

A clean engine should be dry and the hoses should not be cracked. Cleaning with a steamer can be confusing, adding gloss, so the poet needs to be especially scrupulous examine the unit for leaks oil.

The oil itself should also be examined. If it is fresh and too thick, then it was flooded to avert eyes from serious defects, such as various wear and low compression.

The engine needs to be inspected and in running state. Before it warms up, climb into the expansion tank, if there are bubbles, then the head gasket is damaged.

Inspect the running unit, there should be no oil and antifreeze leaks. And his work should not be accompanied by extraneous metallic sounds.

Arrange verification exhaust system - shut up exhaust pipe cloth, the running engine should stall. Also check the temperature of the engine on the gauge and the efficiency of the stove.

Test Drive. The vehicle should be tested in a variety of conditions, from parking downhill with the handbrake to hard braking and shifting gears. It is necessary to evaluate not only technical aspects, but also your inner feelings. How comfortable are you with this particular vehicle?

Before you go to inspect the car, you can online watch helpful video on the topic "choose a used car." They will help you decide on the main parameters of choice.

Nuances of choice

How to choose a car, perhaps, every car owner knows when it comes to buying a brand new car in a car dealership. But in the case of purchasing a used car, it is worth reconciling in advance with a difficult choice and the fact that there will still be flaws.

It is important to simply identify them and estimate the cost of their elimination. Therefore, going to the auction, in advance check out the price tags on the most running parts of the selected model. Such information will greatly help in the bargain.

And in order to assess the condition of a car with a history as accurately as possible, you need to diagnose at a service station you trust. This will help in the future to avoid big troubles and expenses.

The slightest flaws should serve you reason to lower the price and don't be shy. Bargain to the last, including all possible upcoming expenses in your amount. There is no need to be afraid to offend the seller, he still will not sell the car below the cost that is favorable to him. And the money you save will come in handy.

Naturally, when buying, the main attention should be paid to the condition of the body, because, as you know, it is the most expensive part of the car, and a mistake in assessing its condition when buying a car can greatly overshadow your joy of owning your own car in the near future.

Often, motorists, having bought another car, say: What's wrong with the fact that the car was once a little crushed, but then it was made - better than a new one? The most innocuous trouble that can deliver broken car this is the inability to adjust the angles of the wheels due to a violation of the geometry of the body. Since it is not possible to check the geometry of the body when inspecting the car (special equipment is required), there can be only one piece of advice NEVER buy beaten cars!

When buying, you may well not notice that the car, for example, sins by pulling to the right. Caring salesman let us down right in advance front wheel, and lowered the left a little, and now the car is perfectly on course! Until the moment when you pump up the wheels. Windshield, which cracks a month after the next replacement for no apparent reason - also not the biggest nuisance delivered by a crooked body.

The seller can swear to you that after the impact, the body repair was carried out with the highest quality and the car is better than new. But the use of expensive equipment that allows you to bring the geometry of the body to zero. So it all depends on the qualifications of the tinsmith. Even if we assume that everything is really done according to the mind and the geometry of the restored car is normal, another problem arises. Body parts are connected to each other mainly by welding. Without going into technical details, we note that the technology of this process in a car service, to put it mildly, is very different from that on a factory conveyor. In practice, this manifests itself in the fact that, despite all the measures taken, the corrosion rate of repair welded joints is on average five times higher than that of factory ones. Simply put, broken car rot much faster. You may object that you are not going to ride it all your life, but expect to sell it in a year. But, firstly, after a year, external manifestations of corrosion can greatly affect the sale price, and secondly, for example, after six months, the brace bracket can suddenly come off along with a recently welded repair pad.

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say: "The best car is an unbeaten car."

Therefore, the main attention when buying a used car should be given to this aspect.

How to determine the unbeatenness of the car? Search options.

To select applicants for the role of your future car, there is

several ways:

Buying from friends

Private ads (newspapers, internet, etc.)

Commission shop

We will not consider the first option, because it does not involve any choice, but is often the best.

Of the remaining, at first glance, preferable market, you can see many cars at once, make a purchase on the spot, and strong competition contributes to better pliability of sellers. But let's look at the problem from the other side from the point of view of the seller.

If he is not a professional used car dealer and sells nice car for a real price (which is exactly what we are looking for), then there is no reason for him to stand in the market all day, paying an entry fee and wasting precious time. The very first ad in a popular newspaper or on a well-promoted party on the Internet, as a rule, solves his problem. Of course, it’s worth going to the market mainly to find out the price ceiling for the option you are interested in and try to put into practice the knowledge gained in the field of broken cars.

The thrift stores are mostly cars that the owners are desperate to sell in any other way.

Although, in fairness, it should be noted that here and there sometimes come across very worthy specimens, just imported from Europe.

So, we choose the last option - ads.

Drafting an advertisement for the sale of a car is also a kind of science. The main purpose of such an announcement is to attract the attention of as many potential buyers as possible. Therefore, try to highlight in the ads only objective information that cannot be embellished with the year of manufacture, color and contact phone number, ignoring phrases like excellent condition, sat down and drove off, mileage 23000 (honest). It is not without reason that the mileage value is mentioned in this list - you can write what the buyer wants to read, but it is impossible to verify this information.

Example. One of the cars, say (black eight, 1990), had a mileage of 370,000 km, while the odometer on a low dashboard, of course, showed 70,000. After a short hesitation, the buyer decided that this was the first round, expressing this thought aloud. The car at one time suffered a strong frontal impact, the consequences of which were eliminated very carelessly, had many superficial dents and scratches, a completely rotten rear panel and terrifying-looking thresholds, prudently covered with plastic lining. In addition, three days before the show, the car was hit from behind (the right side member collapsed) and the body repair was carried out in 1.5 hours (including reinforcement work) by towing a pole. Black was used as a distraction, alloy wheels, a sunroof, the plastic thresholds mentioned above (very worthy by the way), a perfectly working engine (colleagues did their best), as well as a phrase in the ad main couple 4.13, which caused a flurry of calls at a listed price of $1600.

The above example once again confirms the well-known axiom. For every car there is a buyer. But purely humanly, this buyer was a little sorry.

In general, the ease with which people believe, for example, that a six-year-old car has traveled, say, 50,000 km, is always surprising. Well, it can't be and that's it! If these data are true, then either the car has stood for most of its life, which in no way contributes to improving its condition, or its owner was an old pensioner who only went to the country, but in this case it is he who should show it to you.

Returning to the topic of plastic thresholds and other similar accessories (muzzles, cut-offs, headlight covers, spoilers, moldings, stickers), it should be noted that they are an excellent tool for hiding a wide variety of body defects (including through holes and serious dents, as well as outright rottenness). Therefore, if you are a fan of this kind of tuning, it is wiser to carry it out after buying a car, completely focusing on your taste, and avoid inspecting a car with this kind of stray already installed. This is especially true for not very new cars (over 4 years old).

Contacts for selected ads.

Having selected the ads that are suitable, from your point of view, we proceed to the next stage of communication with the bearers thereof. In a telephone conversation, it seems to me that it is necessary to clarify the following points:

Number of car owners since purchase

The presence of dents, scratches and brown metallic inclusions (rust)

Country of original purchase of the car

Place of last registration (there are situations when, having arrived for inspection, you find a car registered in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug)

General condition of the car (from the point of view of the seller)

What is the reason for such a small amount of mileage for such and such a period, if an incredibly low mileage is indicated in the ad (this question demoralizes the seller to some extent)

Inspection for next year

Possible purchase options

Machine equipment (optional equipment)

Was the car broken (painted)

To this list, each of you, of course, will add questions that are significant for him personally and, based on the answers received, will discard some of the proposals already at this stage, without wasting precious time.

If you get an affirmative answer to the last question on the list, say goodbye, hang up and dial the next number. Answers like: What does this mean ?, I didn’t beat it or paint it, but I don’t know the previous twelve owners - 98% indicate that we have a broken car in front of us and there is no point in wasting time examining it.

Finally, the inspection agreements have been reached and you are ready to go to a meeting with the seller. Are you ready?

Preparing for an inspection.

In order to start inspecting candidates for the role of your future car, you need a little preliminary preparation. Let's split it into two stages.

The first stage is psychological. As you know, under the influence of emotions (both negative and positive), a person is able to commit many rash acts. During the purchase period personal car, whether it is the first car in life or the eighteenth, a person usually experiences an emotional upsurge, accompanied by a desire to quickly put this idea into practice. On the wave of this rise, most of the mistakes are made. Try to leave at home all your feelings and emotions, absolutely everything. Competently executed pre-sale preparation The car and the related acting ability of the seller can play a cruel joke on the buyer, who cannot free himself from the influence of emotions, even if he has a deep knowledge in the field of cars.

In this regard, I recall a very recent case when a tinsmith with five years of experience acquired a nine made in 1997. for $ 2500, succumbing to the influence of emotions. He examined the car with his wife and she liked it so much that she was able to convince a friend that this was the car they needed emerald metallic, tinted windows, wide wheels and a sliding electric sunroof. Two weeks later, he admitted that he was wrong, and the car really suffered a severe frontal impact with overlap. He hoisted it on the most sophisticated body repair stand and pulled it all day long, leaving all his Lexuses for a while.

This case once again proves that even a very experienced person, under the influence of emotions, is capable of committing rash acts. This is what the calculation of the cunning seller is based on. But in any case, the right of choice is yours and it should certainly be used.

Clearly define for yourself the requirements that you personally place on your future car and resolutely reject options that do not satisfy them, not allowing feelings to lead you astray. These requirements look like this (in order of importance):

The car must be unbeaten

No cracks in power elements and traces of welding

No pockets of corrosion

factory painting

Native attachments (fenders, doors, hood, etc.)

No major dents or scratches

Lack of towbar and traces of its installation

Lack of plastic sills, lining on the arches, cut-offs (covers) on the hood and other similar parts that can hide pockets of corrosion, holes and (or) dents underneath

Engine and chassis must not have serious defects (such as knocking, smoking, oil emission with crankcase gases, grinding, clanging, etc.)

All other shortcomings, such as: dead shock absorbers, crispy CV joints, electrical malfunctions, holes in the upholstery from steers (a very typical defect), etc., are considered insignificant, because their elimination will cost you relatively inexpensively, besides this is a good reason for bargaining.

The methods for finding these shortcomings will be discussed below, and now we will repeat:

If there is any doubt that a particular car meets these (or your personal) requirements, say goodbye to the seller, promising to think about it, and look at the next car. The market works for you. So, we have completed the psychological preparation for the examination.

Let's move on to the second stage - the technical one.

To inspect a car, we need:

Flashlight (small)

Roulette

Putty detector

Newspaper (you can use unnecessary parts of the issue where you read the ad)

Thread gloves

Inspection.

So, the car is in front of you.

Needless to say, the inspection should be carried out only during daylight hours, for example during the day. Carefully inspect the car, going around it from all sides, from different distances and from different angles. You may not notice anything at the same time, but the seller's confidence will decrease. The main purpose of such an inspection is to identify smooth bumps on flat surfaces (smooth humps), differences in paint shades on different parts, as well as a visual assessment of the condition of the paintwork and the body as a whole.

Also pay close attention to the size of the gaps between the body parts. The absolute value of these gaps is determined by the VAZ within a fairly wide range, so there is no need to measure them with a caliper, the main thing is that they are the same on both sides of the car and uniform in length (for long wings, a slight narrowing of the gaps between the front wings and the hood in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wing toes is acceptable, without fail same on both sides).

Pay special attention to the gaps between:

Front fenders and windshield frame

Specified frame and hood

Front bumper and front fenders

Hood and headlights

Direction indicators and front fenders

Front fenders and doors

Sidewalls and doors

Front and rear doors

Trunk lid and opening

Pay attention also to the protrusion of attachments (doors, hood, trunk lid) relative to mating surfaces.

During an external examination, try to also identify differences in the shade and structure of the paint on different parts (shagreen, grain difference for metallics). In doubtful places, use the putty detector mentioned above (the method of its use follows from the design).

Make sure there are no characteristic creases along the edges of the roof above the B-pillars. Sellers usually explain their presence as follows: A branch fell on the roof. In fact, these are traces of a strong frontal impact.

Also pay attention to the characteristic places of corrosion, such as:

- Roof joints with front and rear pillars of the body

windshield frame

The lower part of the trunk lid

Hood leading edge

Front of interior and exterior arches rear wheels(when no rear fenders)

Be sure to inspect with a putty detector (or by tapping) rear racks bodies along their entire length. In the case of replacing the rear fenders (sidewalls), there is always putty.

Having laid a prepared newspaper on the ground, proceed to inspect the lower part of the body. Examine the anchor points of the jack, the condition of the bottom (as far as possible), and in the back, make sure that there are no traces of welding and editing of the rear spars and traces of the installation of the hitch that we hate so much.

Do not forget to also check the absence of paint splashes on the inner wheel arches, suspension parts, braces brackets and braces themselves.

Try to check all visible power elements of the body (spars, front panel, lower amplifiers of the front mudguards, etc.) for cracks and traces of recent anti-corrosion treatment. At the same time, all joints of the specified parts should be carefully examined in order to identify repair seams and make sure that there are no reinforcing pads under the guy wire brackets.

Also pay attention to the number of shims installed on the guy wires.

As a rule, a carelessly restored car can be identified already at this stage of the inspection.

If everything is OK, then proceed to the next phase.

Open the hood (do it yourself to make sure the lock works).

Inspect the inside of the hood for corrosion.

Pay attention to the position of the hood locking pin. It should stand strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, a different position indicates attempts to adjust the position of the hood in the process body repair. Also make sure that there is a yellow sticker with a picture of a lightning bolt and formidable warning words about the danger of electric shock, and its absence should alert you.

Proceed to inspect the engine compartment.

Inspect the front fender mounting bolts. They should not have traces of unscrewing, and the adjusting grooves in the wings should show sawing marks. Body-colored sealant must protrude between the front fenders and their mounting planes on the mudguards on both sides.

Examine the front panel. Make sure that there is a white rectangular sticker 1.3% on its upper part, as well as for the presence of factory resistance welding points at the junction of the upper part of the front panel with the radiator frame.

Check for a bracket for the front wiring harness holder near the front engine mount. This bracket is very often forgotten to be installed when replacing the front panel, in which case the front wiring harness lies directly on the engine mount.

Such trifles at first glance seem insignificant, but they significantly help in our business.

Using a flashlight, inspect the welded joints of the front spars and the lower cross member of the radiator frame. Connections must be made by contact welding, while the sealant is NOT APPLIED to them by the factory!

Inspect the spars along their entire length, trying to identify external signs of their repair or differences from each other.

Pay attention to the sections of the front mudguards in the area where the washer reservoir and battery are attached. There must be small waves.

Carefully inspect the connections of the support cups of the front struts with the mudguards (the right cup is numbered). The sealant must be applied evenly along the entire length of the joint and must be applied equally on both sides. Prior to 1994, no sealant was applied to these joints. In this case, inspect all contact welding points of these joints.

Also, do not ignore the connection of these cups with a motor shield.

The power unit on an unbeaten car should occupy a horizontal position, its inclination towards the washer reservoir is a sure sign of body repair.

Pay attention also to the thrust pad of the clutch release cable on the engine shield, located under the vacuum booster. It's traditional weakness Samara is often a source of headache for owners. There should not be any traces of welding and repair overlays. Handicraft linings cause frequent chafing of the clutch cable with all the ensuing consequences. We will examine this node in more detail later, when examining the interior.

On this, perhaps, we can complete the inspection engine compartment. Close the hood, once again making sure that the lock works correctly, and go back.

Raise the trunk lid. This part is notorious for its tendency to rust (especially for hatchbacks). Therefore, carefully inspect its inner surface around the perimeter, brown metallic often lurks there. Pay attention to the flanging of its opening, on which a rubber seal is put on; its lower part is also a favorite place for corrosion.

Then lift the mat and proceed to inspect the trunk floor. The crumpled zones located on the sides of the spare wheel niche must have their original shape without traces of straightening work.

Don't hesitate to take out spare wheel and make sure that there is a platform with a body number in its niche (for cars from 1998 onwards).

Let's go to the salon.

With the doors open, pull them up by the outer handle, making sure there is no play. In the presence of this backlash (sagging of the door), the latter closes with increased effort. A favorite method of masking this defect among the people is to put washers under the door hinge, the absence of which is also worth making sure.

Pay attention to the joints of the thresholds and sidewalls in the area of ​​the lower hinges of the front doors, these are typical places for the formation of corrosion.

A little higher, it was mentioned that it was necessary to inspect the thrust pad of the clutch cable from the passenger compartment. To implement this plan, you will have to use a flashlight to look into the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pedal assembly. While in this uncomfortable position, trace the path of the clutch cable from the top edge of the pedal to the engine shield. Here you can find traces of welding work. If they are not there, press the clutch pedal by hand (do not forget to tighten hand brake, if it works, of course, or take other measures to prevent the movement of the liberated vehicle) and make sure that the cable support plate remains stationary when pressed hard.

Don't forget to inspect the license plates (especially the rear). They should not have the slightest trace of straightening. After a serious frontal impact, the straightened front number is often moved back, where it does not attract attention.

On this, perhaps, we will stop. If during the inspection you did not find anything suspicious, congratulate yourself and proceed to inspect the engine, check driving performance and other things that are beyond the scope of this article. Take the time to inspect and you will more than compensate for these losses in the course of further trouble-free operation.

Conclusion.

In conclusion, I would like to give some general advice.

In the course of a conversation with the seller, mention your desire to buy a car deregistered by him (even if you really do not want this). Ideally, the seller should willingly agree to this. Various excuses (there is no time, take it by proxy) suggest that problems (and very serious ones) are possible along the way and it is better not to mess with such a car.

Be sure to check the identity of the body and engine numbers indicated in the Registration Certificate and Title, especially if you are dealing with duplicates.

Do not take money for the first inspection.

Avoid salespeople who look, demeanor, or use typical car service slang.

Good luck on the roads!

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