Do-it-yourself tractors were made back in the days Soviet Union. How to make a car, everyone craftsman figured it out on my own. At that time there was no Internet where you can find almost any information. Therefore, everyone who needed a homemade tractor independently looked for a way out.

Currently, there are several reasons for making a tractor with your own hands. Someone is not satisfied specifications available models and he wants to create a machine that best suits his individual needs. Others simply do not have enough funds to purchase even a used tractor, but there is a need to use this agricultural equipment.

Unlike Soviet times, we have the opportunity to use the World Wide Web. There you can find drawings and detailed instructions to assemble a homemade tractor. We want to tell you about one such model in this article.

How to make a homemade tractor

You can take as a basis the drawings proposed by the Saratov inventor and make your own additions to them. In the course of the description, we will give you practical advice how to improve the design.

Frame

The basis of any technique is the frame. It is on it that the weight of attachments and other components of the tractor falls. If you are familiar with agricultural machinery, you should know that all tractors on the market have an all-metal frame or break frame.

The one-piece frame provides the technique with greater reliability, and the turning point - maneuverability. Which option you prefer is up to you. Simonov used a one-piece version for the manufacture of his model.

To do this, you must use a metal channel or a pipe with a square section. The side spars are made from channel No. 10 or 12. For the front and rear traverse, it is recommended to use No. 16.

A cross beam is made from the twelfth channel, which will serve as a stiffener. The front part of the frame, where the engine will be located, is recommended to be reinforced with metal corners.

If you want a hand-made technique to have good maneuverability, then you need to make two half-frames from the material listed above. They must be connected to each other with a hinge. You can use for these purposes connections from the main gears of trucks.

Engine and transmission

Simonov used in his tractor a 40-horsepower diesel engine with water cooling. This four-cylinder unit was removed by a designer from a faulty loader. Most likely, you will not have a decommissioned autocar at hand, so you have to be smart.

On a do-it-yourself tractor, you can install almost any engine that is suitable for power. Considering that you are making a full-fledged tractor with your own hands, and not a walk-behind tractor on four wheels, recommended diesel power should vary from 30 to 80 horsepower.

To find the right unit, you can use the Internet or inspect nearby car depots. Surely you can find power plant for a nominal fee.

For the proposed design, you can use the gearbox from the GAZ-53 and the clutch from the GAZ-52. To connect the diesel to the clutch, you will need to cut the engine flywheel and drill an additional hole in the center.

The rear axle of this model is leading, so it is best to install a ready-made part. Making a rear drive axle with your own hands is quite difficult. Simonov removed the required unit from the above-mentioned loader.

The front axle is steerable, so you can do it yourself. Drawings and assembly diagram front axle can be found on the internet. The hubs and front wheels can be borrowed from the GAZ-69. Brakes are recommended to use disc brakes. They can be placed on the cardan shaft.

Hydraulics and steering

In order for a home-made tractor to have good controllability, it is recommended to install a hydraulic steering. To do this, you need a gear pump type NSh-10.

This design can be removed from almost any decommissioned agricultural machinery. The pump is mounted to the engine and works only when the diesel engine is on. The steering wheel can be removed from the KSK 100 A combine or similar. Instead of the steering rack, it is necessary to install a hydraulic cylinder.

To make a homemade tractor truly functional, a hydraulic system is needed. Without it, the equipment will not be able to work with attachments. The finished hitch together with the cylinder can be removed from the MTZ-80 tractor.

In order for the hydraulics to function normally, an additional pump is attached to the power plant. Optimally suited for the performance of NSh-32. For oil, you need a container with a volume of about 10 liters. All hydraulic units are interconnected by flexible hoses.

Cabin

The workplace can be made of a metal profile. As a skin, M. Simonov used steel sheets 2 mm thick. The same material will be needed for the hood trim.

From the inside, the cabin can be trimmed with leatherette, after placing a layer of insulation between the inner and outer skin. There will be no problems with glasses, they are removed from any old equipment and used already in finished form.

The driver's seat is taken from any truck, the battery can be placed under it. DIY wiring. As an example, you can use wiring diagram tractor T-40.

In order to avoid problems with traffic police officers, it is necessary to install headlights on the tractor and parking lights. It is worth noting that Simonov registered the tractor, assembled with his own hands, with the traffic police without any problems and received a license plate.

The tractor model assembled according to this scheme shows good performance and maneuverability. Equipment can move at a speed of 37 km / h. When performing work, speed indicators can be reduced to 2 km / h.

As already mentioned, you can take the proposed design as a basis and assemble your tractor based on it, which will meet your needs.

Every farmer or summer resident wants to simplify work in the garden. To do this, it is not necessary to purchase expensive units; in this case, home-made tractors will help. Having made equipment, you can not only save money, but also get an excellent “assistant” who will perform tasks for you such as cleaning snow, hay, plowing the soil or transporting the harvested crop. With little experience in working with such equipment, it will not be difficult to design a home-made mini tractor.

Pros of homemade tractors

The process of manufacturing equipment does not require large investments. Home-made tractors are made by home craftsmen from outdated household equipment; only the missing spare parts will need to be bought in the store. If there are already small-sized agricultural units in the form of a walk-behind tractor or a cultivator, the task of manufacturing a mini tractor is even easier.

Homemade assembly work is facilitated if there is already a walk-behind tractor or cultivator

Also on the plus side homemade mini tractors it is necessary to highlight the possibility of regulating equipment individually for the manager. The farmer can independently select the necessary dimensional parameters, combine mechanisms, nodes, and not be content with the set of functions of the factory counterpart.

Of course, there are also disadvantages, which are as follows:

• Difficulties may arise during the collection process;
• it is enough to independently design a connection diagram for all nodes;
• most of the elements are used in a used state, and their subsequent use can lead to rapid wear;
• during the operation of the unit, breakdowns may occur due to insufficient experience of the master.

Compared with the advantages, a number of disadvantages are large. But if the summer resident is confident in his abilities and skills, he will definitely be able to assemble a high-quality home-made tractor with his own hands.

Design features

First of all, before making a mini tractor, you should decide on its components. Most simple model small-sized tractor in the design has the following elements:

• motor - as a given part, you can take a walk-behind tractor or scooter as a basis;
• reliable frame - all components will be installed on it;
• braking device hydraulic type;
• design with brake discs;
• hodovka - should include wheels and 2 axles;
• device for fixing attachments;
• steering system;
• seat for the manager;
• lights.

All parts must be mounted in a certain sequence according to the selected scheme.

VIDEO: How to assemble a unit from a walk-behind tractor

We select the engine for a homemade tractor

For a homemade mini tractor, many motor options are suitable. One of the best is the ZID engine, which was originally designed for use in self-made equipment. A 4-stroke engine with one cylinder and a volume of 4.5 liters will perfectly cope with the processing of land soil, with dimensions of 2-3 hectares.

If the farmer has a walk-behind tractor, then the task is twice as easy. The fact is that the use of a walk-behind tractor eliminates the need to search for a bridge with a clutch, weld the front of the frame and select a steering gear, all this is already in this technique.

What is needed for the frame

To transmit torque to rear axle mini tractors with a breaking frame (if the engine is in front) axles from trucks are used

This will require strong iron corners or a channel of brand No. 8 with dimensions of 90x36 cm. The rear area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame must be assembled under the parameters of 68x36 cm. After completing the assembly of the frame, 2 transverse pipes with a square section should be welded on the cut. This element will serve as a stand for the motor. The remaining holders are mounted based on the selected scheme.

When connecting two parts of the frame, you need to use a hinge and 2 forks. For the first part, a pin with bearings from KAMAZ is used. After all, a canvas for attachments is welded to the frame.

First you need to weld on the frame vertical metal racks with reinforcement corners. The front axle of a homemade tractor must be made of a monolithic rod with a cross section of 50 mm. A hinge is installed in the middle by means of a semi-cylindrical nozzle. Along the edges of the beam with a KAMAZ trunnion, “ears” for the pivots are mounted, and wheels are attached to them.

To organize the most accurate direction, a distributor is installed on the equipment. An oil tank is attached to the front area near the motor, and a bushing is fixed in the middle of the device, which is responsible for swinging the front axle. It should not be forgotten that at the end of these steps you need to install a spool, it is required to drain the oil.

A hinge is required to fix additional devices. In this case, the best option is a three-point variation, consisting of 2 rods mounted on a metal sheet and a hinged device. The hydraulic motor drive and additional traction will act as the third fixation point.

For proper and proper functioning, it is recommended to install movable rods with a diameter of 4-5 cm on the canvas, and only from them to mount attachments.

Installing a brake system with a clutch on a homemade tractor

The brakes are mounted directly on the rear drive wheels. The best option the system from UAZ will serve. The pads should be installed on the discs, and the control mechanism should be brought to the desired pedal. Also, for convenience, the brake can be made manual by connecting to the lever.

If you need to build a clutch in a homemade tractor, a traditional belt drive will do. Use a ready-made system from a car of a brand such as Moskvich or UAZ. The branch pipe that produces pressure on the belt is mounted on the frame with a spring attached to the lug located in the middle. The second part is welded to the pedal through the lever.

Steering gear and seat

The steering for a do-it-yourself mini tractor is suitable from the Moskvich car. In this case, unlike other variations, the element will rotate in the other direction. To avoid this “defect”, instead of standard rods, parts from the Zhiguli should be attached, while the hubs should be used from Zaporozhets. A special lever made of steel will help to completely translate the device in the right direction; it is mounted between the column and all the rods.

After the manipulations, you can begin to fix the driver's seat. The seat is attached to the welded frame by means of vertical corners or directly to a tubular structure with a rectangular section in section. To reduce the transmission of vibrations during operation, the chair should be installed on strong shock absorbers with additional fastening with rods.

If necessary, you can create a full-fledged driver's cabin. This will require several steel sheets. They are cut into the required shape and welded to the frame.

Conclusion

A home-made mini tractor will be able to fully express itself in such work as snow removal, plowing the soil, transporting harvested crops or small-sized cargo. But adding the unit attachments the device will become an indispensable assistant in the household, regardless of the complexity of the work.

VIDEO: Where to start assembling a homemade mini tractor

To begin with, I, in general, did not need a minitractor by itself - like most summer residents of the Soviet era, I have only 6 acres of land and it was quite possible to do without equipment. Here, the craving for creativity simply played a role, plus there were already some developments on creating a home-made tractor with a breaking frame. Yes, and in the garage by that time a fair amount of "hardware" of various origins had accumulated.

For example, I got the engine from a friend, at one time I helped him with the repair of his ancient car, and in return I received a unit of an unknown model to me, but clearly of Soviet origin (this is clear from the quality mark on the cast block and the corresponding inscription). Most likely, the motor is of military origin, since I have not seen such motors on civilian vehicles, but I will talk about this later.

tractor engine

The rest of the iron also came to me in approximately the same ways. I looked for the missing parts at the base of the vtorchermet, since the base is nearby, and everyone knows the approach to the watchmen of such establishments, I think.
About a year of time was spent on the manufacture of a minitractor, most of which was taken by the aforementioned searches. The main work was carried out in my free time, it should be noted that I have access to machine tools and welding - this allowed me to avoid any delays and the need to turn to the “uncle” in order to turn or weld some part.

Idea

I didn’t think about the tractor scheme for a long time, almost immediately I stopped on a breaking frame (I wanted to try it for a long time). With such a scheme, it seems to me that there is an opportunity in the best way for all components and assemblies of the tractor. This scheme is also supported by the fact that in the usual version, a lot of space is required for the front steered wheels, while with a breaking frame there is no need to turn them.

Scheme of a homemade tractor

As it turned out later, this scheme proved to be the best in small areas.

Engine

As mentioned above, I got an unfamiliar engine. It was a two-cylinder diesel, almost complete. I had to retrofit it only with a generator from Gaz-53 and a starter from the fifty-first lawn. I replaced the bendix on the starter - the regular one did not fit the teeth of the diesel flywheel. According to my estimates, the engine power is in the region of 20 hp. The torque was sufficient to carry out all the work on the site without any problems. Yes, and a silencer and fuel tank I picked it up from an old motorized stroller, and the radiator, along with the fan, was from a Zhiguli.

frame design

The frame of the minitractor was articulated with a fracture along the vertical plane. The swivel assembly is made on the basis of the Mazov cardan. This took a few simple steps:

1. Fix by welding the horizontal axle shafts of the cross in the middle fork.
2. Weld a metal plate 12 mm thick to the flange of the rear fork.
3. Connect the flanges of the front and middle forks with bolts, and then weld the front fork to the mating parts of the front frame.

Tractor frame diagram

Frame (in the top view, the subframe and stand are conditionally not shown): 1 - bumper (channel 6.5); 2 - scarf (steel sheet s4, 8 pcs.); 3 - front spar (pipe 60 × 40, 2 pcs.); 4 - ears of the front suspension (steel sheet s4, 8 pcs.); 5 - support of the front inclined rack (steel sheet 4mm, 2 pcs.); 6 - front inclined post of the portal (pipe 60 × 40, 2 pcs.); 7 - transverse beam of the portal (from truck); 8 - shock absorber cup (part of the wheel disk passenger car, 2 pcs.); 9 - rear inclined post of the portal (pipe 60 × 40, 2 pcs.); 10 - vertical post of the front half-frame (corner 70 × 70, 2 pcs.); 11 - articulating hinge ( universal joint from the MAZ car); 12 - transverse wall (steel sheet s12); 13 - longitudinal wall (steel sheet s10, 2 pcs.); 14 - lower (inner) spar of the rear half-frame (channel No. 6,5,2 pieces); 15 - - ladder Ml6 (steel bar with a diameter of 16, 4 pcs.); 16 upper (outer) spar of the rear half-frame (pipe 60×40, 2 pcs.); 17 - lower outer spar of the subframe (pipe 60 × 40 2 pcs.); 18 - upper inner spar of the subframe (channel No. 6.5, 2 pcs.); 19 - longitudinal beam of the stand (channel No. 6.5 - 2 pcs.): 20 - stand stand (channel No. 6.5, 2 pcs.); 21 - rear transverse beam (channel No. 9); 22 — front transverse beam (corner 70×70); 23 - rear axle beam (from an electric car)

The back of the frame is made very simply: 2 pieces of channel are connected in a “U” shaped structure using steel strips 10 and 12 mm thick. Fastening elements of the rear axle (from a Bulgarian-made electric car) are welded to the channels, which is fixed with stepladders through the overframe part of the structure. A stand is arranged at the back, also made in the shape of the letter “P”, and serves to mount a hitch with a hydraulic cylinder. A variety of tillage tools can be installed on the hitch - the design turned out to be solid.

As already mentioned, rear axle was used from an electric car, it did not require any alterations and, when assembled, perfectly fell into place. The only thing needed was to turn the front wheels from MTZ inside out and put them on again. This was done so that the track size was equal to the row spacing (70 cm). The suspension of the rear of the tractor is rigid, so the depreciation is achieved by some reduction in pressure in the wheels.

Diagram of my suspension

Suspension front wheel(pos. 2,3,4,5,6,7.8,9,11,12,13,15 - from the ZAZ-968 car): 1 - frame portal; 2 - suspension arm (from the car "Zaporozhets"); 3 - rubber buffer; 4 - flange; 5 - shock absorber; 6 - the lower glass of the spring; 7 - spring; 8 - the upper glass of the shock absorber; 9 - screw with washer: 10 - rubber gasket; 11 - nut with washer; 12 - shock absorber silent block; 13 - pin bracket of the suspension arm; 14 - bolt with split nut (2 sets); 15 - lever silent block (2 pcs.)

The front of the frame has a spatial design, so it took longer to tinker with it. It turned out that the front wheels (from a Bulgarian electric car, which have a rubberized rim instead of normal tires) were conceived to be made on independent suspension. Its main elements are taken from rear suspension old “Zaporozhets”, now I think that it was worth it, after all, to make the suspension arms myself (slightly different geometry). The levers are suspended on hinges attached to the bumper from channel 6.

The shock absorbers are mounted with their upper ends in a frame structure that goes around the wheels (there was an idea to make the tractor all-wheel drive, so I provided the opportunity to bring the axle shafts with cardans). From above, the entire structure is connected by a transverse beam with a platform fixed on it. Installed on site dashboard from the “lawn”, steering column bracket and fuel tank. To install the engine on a semi-frame, spars with rubber cushions are provided. dimensions assembled frame 2080 by 730 mm.

Transmission

In the transmission, he did not invent anything, but applied the usual scheme with a clutch, gearbox, and cardan transmission. The donor was an ancient GAZ-51, gear ratios its gearboxes matched the characteristics of the engine perfectly. After all, a decent tractive effort is more important for a tractor than speed, so from this side I never had any complaints about the box. Another advantage of the gas box was the presence of a window for connecting the power take-off shaft from an armored personnel carrier (“sixties”, came up with the body, as if it were a native).

The power take-off has a pair of levers, one of them is used to turn on the power take-off shaft, and the other lever turns on the oil pump drive for hydraulic system(pump NSh-10). The oil tank of this system has found its place under driver's seat, tank capacity 10 liters. There is a battery box next to the tank. By the way - all the electrics on the tractor are 12-volt, the battery is from a passenger car.

The clutch housing is connected to the motor through an adapter made of a steel plate with holes. Clutch Equipped hydraulic drive from the same donor as the entire transmission.
The cardan gear is short with two hinges, this makes it possible to freely transfer torque from the box to the differential gearbox even at critical angles of rotation of the frame parts relative to each other. On the same shaft hand brake drum type with a mechanism. Considering that the speed of the tractor is low, he made it a worker - he was not mistaken, it works properly.

Drawing brake system my tractor

Scheme of the brake system: 1 - handle; 2 - leash for removing the stopper; 3 - gear sector; 4 - stop dog; 5 - rod with fork adjustable tip; 6 - drive lever; 7 - drum with a brake mechanism; 8 - gearbox; 9 - universal joint; 10 - lever stroke limiter; 11 - a bolt of fastening of the gear sector to the gearbox housing; 12 - lever axis

Steering without kinematics, fully hydraulic - from a forklift. In my opinion, a very convenient system - with the engine running, the frame folds completely when turning the steering wheel with one hand, I personally like it.

Steering

Steering scheme (a - left turn; b - right turn): 1 - steering wheel with hydraulic cylinder; 2 - vertical rack of the front half-frame; 3 - arm of the rod of the working cylinder, 4 - working cylinder; 5 - rear half-frame; 6 - articulating hinge; 7 - hydraulic hoses

The frame is folded by a hydraulic cylinder, fixed at its ends on the front and rear half-frames. By the way, the same cylinder is used to raise and lower mounted units.
The hydraulic system is controlled by a spool valve from the tractor of the MTZ family. The distributor is fixed under the seat with right side from the battery box.

The operation of the tractor did not involve driving on public roads and at night, so I did not bother with lighting devices. For my convenience, I just put rear-view mirrors so that when plowing, and other operations, I don’t constantly look back.

The minimum clearance of the device came out about 250 millimeters, I think it is quite enough for the conditions of my site.