With your own hands - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other "handmaker" tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - turning every detail yourself, but this is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how collect radio-controlled car at home.

How it works?

Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:

• RTR. Completely ready to use machines. That is, I took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and forward to the races;
• kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of assembled car comes a set of spare parts, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, as a result, assembling the model of your dreams on your own.

Note : the option in which you buy all the spare parts separately is not much different from. It’s just that you don’t use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory parts.

Why do you need a do-it-yourself RC model at all? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembling from finished parts is less demanding on skill than "file work".

What spare parts will be needed?

As a rule, if you have chosen some kind of Kit, then only the chassis and body are included in its package. Additionally needed ( Considering an electric machine):

• Engine;
• Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
• wheels;
• Battery;
• Discs, inserts, etc.

Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled car model with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.

Is it difficult to assemble the Kit?

It is at the assembly stage of Kit’a that there are usually no difficulties: the parts are numbered, detailed instructions are included with them - do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with other components, so once again we advise: before buying an engine and other spare parts carefully study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.

Plastic or aluminum?

The answer to this question largely depends on the brand in question, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks something like this:

• Plastic: Lighter, absorbs shock better, recovers shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong a blow, the plastic cracks and tears, it will be almost impossible to repair it - the part is to be replaced. In addition, on plastic parts loosen up over time seats shafts and bearings, which causes backlash - again you have to change the part;
• Aluminum. It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite brittle and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.

Parts manufacturers

There are three most interesting brands:

• RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. The brand has only two drawbacks: a high price and a clear sharpening for American cars like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the “Chinese”;
• Integy. Aluminum parts, a good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, it is quite possible to think about choosing this brand. And yes, aluminum looks great!
• Pro-line. Another great - and quite versatile - brand. Optimal choice, if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a lot of awards, a very wide range and an acceptable pricing policy.

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General conclusions on do-it-yourself cars

If you carefully follow the instructions and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in self-assembly of a RC model. The main thing is to use high-quality components from famous brand, they fall into place seamlessly. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the bar of custom.

At this time, miniature models of radio-controlled aircraft can be found on sale, this includes the Ofice Flyer, which is produced by Pilotage. On such models, you can fly in small rooms or halls with up to 10-15 people. But due to the crisis, the cost of such aircraft models is in the range of 1000 rubles, in addition, they break down very quickly due to a very weak design, they are only enough for a few hits. Then the toy can be thrown away, or you can use the engine, receiver and battery to make a homemade product out of it.

Such models are controlled by an infrared transmitter. In this regard, flying on the street in sunny weather on such an aircraft model will not work. You need to wait for cloudy weather or evening. In total, the model has two channels for control, with the help of one the engine speed is controlled, and the second channel is reserved for steering.

In this article, we will look at how you can assemble such a mini-model of a flying aircraft yourself using a miniature radio-controlled car for office racing as a basis. Such machines cost about 250-300 rubles, which is 2/3 less than the cost of Ofice Flyer.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- a miniature radio-controlled car;
- soldering iron;
- ceiling tiles;
- adhesive for ceiling tiles;
- ruler;
- scissors, clerical knife;
- wires and other little things.

Aircraft manufacturing process:

Step one. We disassemble the machine
First you need to disassemble the machine from which the aircraft model will be made. You need to do this carefully, you should try to keep the wires of the engine and steering in their places.

Step two. Creating an airplane model
The aircraft model is made from ceiling tiles, for this you will need to download the drawing and print it. You can download the desired model drawing from. The fuselage of the model turns out to be flat, its contour is made of ceiling tiles 3.5-4 mm thick.

For the manufacture of the wing and tail, you will need a ceiling tile, spread in half. You can dissolve the ceiling in half with a piece of nichrome wire, which is connected to a power source. To do this, drills of the required diameter or other suitable items are placed under the ceiling tiles. On top of the ceiling is pressed with plywood or an MDF sheet, a weight is placed on top. Now the sheet only needs to be pulled evenly through the red-hot nichrome. The result is two sheets of ceiling tiles of the same width.

Another option is to first glue the workpiece, and then with the help of sandpaper glued to the bar, grind off the excess, but this is a rather lengthy and painstaking procedure.

The wings of the model should be arranged in a V-shape. This is done so that the model aircraft itself stabilizes during the flight.
According to the author, the easiest way is to make a twin-engine model. As an example, you can assemble a bomb model

driver with two engines.

Another option is to assemble a flying wing, as an example, the Stealth model. But for such a homemade product, you will need a controller that controls two motors, find one in radio-controlled cars it will be hard. But most often, such electronics are found in radio-controlled tanks.

The peculiarity of this model is that it does not require steering wheels for turns. The model will turn due to the fact that there will be a difference in thrust between the left and right screws. It is on this principle that the electronics in the tank work.

Even in such tanks there is a channel with which the tower is controlled. It can be used to control the elevator or turns.

If the model has only one motor control, then an actuator is used for turns. The same device is used to rotate the front axle of the minicar. It must also be carefully removed from the toy, leaving the winding intact. If the winding has been damaged, then you can do it yourself, you just need to wind a thin wire around a paper tube.

Step three. The final stage. Engine
When installing the engine, it is placed slightly skewed up, in other words, the axis of the engine should look slightly up relative to the axis of the model. The screw in the model needs to be used large, for its operation you will need to make a gearbox. Such a gearbox can be made from gears found in watches, other Chinese toys, an old printer, and so on.

And the gearbox can be made belt

If a model with two motors is going to be assembled, then in addition to mowing up, the axis of the motors should be turned slightly to the center. The fact is that at full throttle, the propellers will pull the model up, and it will take off. And on medium gas, the model aircraft will fly straight.

As for the control, if it is discrete (button), then the model will fly in a parabola. That is, when the button is pressed, the maximum engine speed will go, and the model will take off, and when the button is released, the plane will glide. There may also be a reverse button on the remote control (reverse movement), it is better to turn it off, because if you press it when the engine is running, it can burn out, it will rotate by inertia.

In my last diary (3 months ago) I promised to post a video with the buggy brought to mind) But as soon as I took it ...

I realized that the revision will be difficult and meaningless!
Decided that it is better given the flaws of the machine to assemble a completely new, not like the last!

And then it started!
To begin with, I made drawings of new levers. This is the front left and right -
This is what they look like on the model. By the way, I forgot to say that I made all the levers from metal corners 25x25
And the frame is made of aluminum profile 50 by 20 MM and 60 cm long
Following the front suspension, I moved on to making the rear. Made a drawing from the beginning
The right and left lower arm are the same. Here they are on the model
In these photos, the suspension with the fists installed

They are made of a pipe 37 mm in diameter, the bearings entered them without difficulty, and in order for the bearings not to fall out of them, I cut the m4 internal thread in the fist for better fixation of the bearing!

This is a rear fist from the front one, it differs in that they have different attachments to the levers! The front fists are attached to the levers on the ball, which are made of a hex bolt to which I gave a spherical shape
They twist into the fist itself from above and below
And here it is finished
Of course, I also cleaned it from the "snot" and painted it. And right now, the photos from which it will become clear how I made such ball-


Next to the bolt lies a "cracker"; it acts as a gasket; the ball itself is located in it
The cracker itself was made from a container of antifreeze. 8 squares were cut into 4 of them holes were made for the bolt. This is how you need to insert them into the lever and pull)
And then heat up the lever itself and tighten the nuts. As I finished this procedure, I pulled out the sugar along with the bolt and dripped oil there!

It seems to be talking about the suspension. Right now the photo - which shows how the parts for the suspension were made (levers, mounts for levers and fists)
These are the rear lower control arms.


The mounts for the levers are simply sawn off from a corner of 25x25 by 10 cm. The front and rear mounts are the same. And this is how the upper levers look, they must be made shorter than the lower ones, because if this is not done, the wheels will not stand straight.

OF COURSE, NOT COMPLETELY UNDERSTANDING. But then there will be photos during assembly, this lever will be clearly visible on them.

This I figured out at what distance to put the mounts.


I started the assembly from the front as I wanted to do front-wheel drive.

Following the front, I moved to the back.

These are the parts for the rear suspension. Next to the lower arms are the upper arms I mentioned.






And this is what the finished back looks like:

In order for the fasteners not to walk in different directions, they should be welded

I removed all the shoals of welding when I was sanding before painting.
Well, this is how the chassis looks in the assembled state))
In the photo it looks like a limousine))) but it is not.

It's the helmsman's turn


and began preparing parts already for the drive

Bones made by myself


They are made from a nail)) 300 x8 mm after they were made they were hardened

This is how they looked after hardening.
When everything was ready, I started the assembly

Then the "haemorrhoids" began - when I installed everything, when turning the wheels, either they did not turn or the bones fell out. I was soaring with her but could not understand what was the matter
After suffering for 2 days, I decided to do instead of the front Rear drive
There was nothing difficult in this, I just rearranged the stars from front to back


After I changed the drive everything went like clockwork))




The engine was fixed in three places, two of which are visible in the photo
This is one mount in the crankcase for oil and two on the opposite side.

After changing the drive, I had a place to install my servo with a force of 33 kg))



It's time to install the brake and throttle servos

Here is the mechanism responsible for stopping the model

Well, one of the most important details is the tank, it is located behind the model
Here you can see how the front suspension works in order for the suspension to be more rigid and similar to the rear - I tightened the springs

Rear-

old steering wheel

Ball work -

This is how she rides
) The video is short because when she drove into a snowdrift and began to slip, she bent the axle on which the cups stand (((I THOUGHT I THOUGHT AND UNDERSTOOD THAT IT WILL BE HARD WITHOUT DIFF

And I thought to buy this one, I think he can handle it !!

I think it will be interesting who inspired me to do this))) really four-wheel drive)) And thanks to his advice, I brought it to mind!!

While I am saving money for it, I decided to write an article. Since there will be no changes after installing the diff in the design of the car !!

If something is not clear or you have questions - do not hesitate to ask.
Thanks to everyone who read my article to the end!!

Any modeler should understand how his model works. This is simply necessary, since it will periodically need to be maintained, adjusted and repaired. In this article, we will look at what parts it consists of. Components of the car:

• Chassis
• Suspension
• Power point
• Energy source
• Transmission
• Servo drives
• wheels
• Body
• Radio control equipment

Chassis

The chassis is the basis of any radio-controlled car. As a rule, this is a metal or plastic plate to which all other elements are attached. Chassis in the form of a metal plate is used on buggies and truggies, plastic and carbon on road models. Monster and crawler models usually have the most complex chassis in the form of one or more intricately shaped parts. Often, the word "chassis" also means the chassis of the model complete with suspension and transmission.

Plastic chassis type "bath"

Suspension

The suspension of the model provides a smooth ride of the car when passing bumps, constant contact of the wheels with the road to improve handling, and for off-road models, it also absorbs shock when landing after jumps. The suspension of most models uses oil-filled shock absorbers mounted vertically, one for each wheel. V simple models friction dampers can be used. Some monsters have two shock absorbers for each wheel.

Power point

The role of the power plant of the model model can be performed by an electric motor or an engine internal combustion(ICE). The power plant of the electric model consists of a motor and a speed controller. If there are usually no questions about the purpose of the motor, then the function of the speed controller is not always immediately clear. In short, the regulator is an intermediate link between the battery and the motor, providing the right voltage to the motor contacts so that it rotates at the required speed. Electric motors can be divided into two types: collector and brushless. Collector motor in automodeling can be considered somewhat outdated, but power plants based on it is much cheaper and used quite often. The disadvantage of this type of motor is the presence of brushes, which wear out rather quickly and the motors require constant maintenance (or replacement) during intensive use. Brushless motors are more expensive, powerful, and virtually maintenance-free. chief external difference brushless motor from the collector is the presence of three wires instead of two.

Internal combustion engines used in car models can be divided into incandescent and gasoline. Most models are equipped with incandescent internal combustion engines, they operate on special fuel. Not on petrol! The working volume of the glow engine usually varies from 2 to 6 cubic centimeters. Often the volume is indicated in cubic inches, for example: an engine with a volume of 0.21 cubic inches (it can also be called "twenty-first", naming only hundredths of the volume in inches) \u003d 3.44 cm 3.

Gasoline engines are used on large scale models, this is due to the fact that the minimum volume of a gasoline engine is about 20 cm 3, it is quite large and heavy. Typically, engines with a volume of 20-30 cm 3 are used.

Gasoline engines develop significantly less power per cubic centimeter of their volume, but have more torque and are much more economical.

Most car engines are single cylinder.

Glow engine 0.21 in 3

Gasoline engine 23 cm3

Energy source

Electric cars run on batteries (not batteries like toys). The most commonly used battery types are NiMH and LiPo. The voltage from which the car works is usually from 7.4 to 22.2 volts. When choosing a battery, you should take into account the characteristics of the speed controller installed on the model, the type of battery and its voltage will depend on it.

Special fuel for glow engines consists of methanol, nitromethane and oil. Extreme care must be taken when handling this fuel - methyl alcohol is extremely poisonous! The cost of such fuel is quite high, about 200-500 rubles per liter. The standard tank of the model, with a volume of 120-150 cm 3, is consumed in about 10 minutes (depending on the engine size, there are real gluttons).

Just like incandescent, model gasoline engines two-stroke, which means they need to be filled with a mixture of gasoline and special oil for two-stroke engines. The path behind him lies in any petrol equipment store.

Transmission

The transmission transmits power from the engine to the wheels. To transmit torque, gears, cardans and belts are used. Most models have four-wheel drive (4WD), although rear-wheel drive (2WD) models are also quite common. Differentials are installed between the wheels on the same axle, and often also a center differential.

Servo drives

To turn the wheels when taxiing, as well as to control the gas and brakes on models with internal combustion engines, servos are used (in the common people - "servos", in English "servo"). Servos are small boxes with an electric motor and gear that can turn their output shaft to a given angle and hold it in that position.

Servo internals

wheels

Unlike the wheels of a real car, the wheels of car models are not inflated with air, its role is played by soft inner inserts. When choosing wheels for a sports car, you should be guided only by their characteristics, and not by any means. appearance. Beautiful wheels with chrome-plated spokes and a powerful tread can only be afforded by monsters and drift models. Models designed for racing are content with solid discs without spokes and tires with a special small tread.

Body

The body of the vast majority of car models is made of Lexan - a thin, durable and flexible sheet of transparent plastic. This body is very light and perfectly protects the model in collisions and coups. Lexan bodywork is painted with special paints from the inside. The Lexan body is mounted on special racks and secured with clips. Unlike a real car, such a body is not an integral part of the model and can be easily replaced with another one. Therefore, it is almost pointless to choose a model only on the body or say "I bought a Porsche 911 model." With intensive use, a model can change several bodies in its life, gradually becoming unusable.

Radio control equipment

And, finally, the model becomes radio-controlled only when radio control equipment or simply "equipment" is installed on it. The equipment consists of two parts - transmitter and receiver. Model cars are usually controlled by a pistol-type transmitter, the trigger of which controls acceleration and braking, and wheel- model rotation. On the market there is a huge selection of the most diverse equipment costing from a couple of tens to several hundred dollars. Recently, almost all new equipment operates at a frequency of 2.4 GHz, while many models can be launched simultaneously in one place without interfering with each other.

Conclusion

If you are buying a ready-to-run model (RTR, Ready to Run, Ready to Race), then you will only need to purchase batteries or fuel. And professional models are often supplied in the form of a self-assembly kit (Kit), which, at a minimum, will also require equipment and a power plant.

Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will provide you with two detailed instructions.

Model #1: What will we need?

To create this radio-controlled model you will need:

• A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
• ARU auto.
• Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
• A piece of rubber.
• Radiator.
• Electrical measuring instruments.
• Soldering iron, solder to it, as well as plumbing tools.
• Reducer.
• Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).

Model No. 1: instructions for creating

And now let's start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:

Model No. 2: necessary components

To create a car you will need:

• Automobile model.
• Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
• Copper tubes (sold in hardware stores).
• Soldering iron.
• Autoenamel.
• Bolts.
• Necessary electronics.
• Battery.

Model #2: Creating a Device

We begin to make a radio-controlled car with our own hands:

In conclusion, we present you one of the drawings for radio controlled models machines - receiver circuit.

A homemade radio-controlled car is a reality. Of course, making it from scratch will not work - develop your experience on simpler models.