Every future car owner faces the problem of buying a car. Of course, if financial possibilities allow, it is better to buy a car from the salon, which minimizes all possible unpleasant consequences of the purchase, since the car is new and it is guaranteed. But buy new car not everyone can, and here the secondary market comes to the rescue of motorists.

The used car market is very extensive and allows almost anyone to find a car for their budget. But the acquisition of such a car is associated with a lot of risks, and first of all it concerns the cars themselves. The condition of the vehicle depends on the operating conditions and compliance with Maintenance. But far from all car owners have a normal attitude towards their “steel horse”, some generally act exactly the opposite - they squeeze “all the juices” out of the car, and very quickly, and then simply “push” it. And here the problem is not even that the car has any technical problems, and all the seller's attempts to hide them in order to sell the car at a higher price. And for this they go to a variety of tricks. Therefore, the purchase of a used car is a rather risky business and it is far from always possible to predict what kind of machine “fell into hands”. But you can try to minimize these risks as much as possible, which will also save on the purchase, but for this you need to know what you should ask the seller about, where to look, and what points may cause suspicion.

Consider how to prepare before and during the purchase of a car using the example of VAZ models - one of the best-selling cars on the market. secondary market.

Identifying a potential purchase

The first step before purchasing is to search for offers to sell cars. There are enough options here, so first you should narrow the search circle as much as possible and for this you need to decide on a number of criteria:

• available budget;
• Preferred option (sedan or station wagon, front or rear wheel drive, 3 or 5 doors, etc.);
• Experience in auto repair and post-acquisition service (for some buyers, buying a defective car and restoring it may be a better option)

These criteria will significantly reduce the time to search for the required car.

Next, you can already consider the existing proposals. One of the best acquisition options is to buy a VAZ from acquaintances, friends, relatives, in general, a car that is well known to the buyer. Knowing the features of the car, and the attitude of the owner to the car, you can already approximately determine the state of the car in advance and, based on this, bargain. In addition, in this case, an installment payment option is available (if there is a trusting relationship between the buyer and the seller), which will allow you to purchase a car whose cost is higher than the available budget.

If there are no such acquaintances, then here you will already have to look for options on the trading floors:

• Internet resources;
• Advertisements in newspapers;
• car markets;

When choosing a car at such sites, you should not stop at one option, you should choose 3-5 cars that best meet the selection criteria and choose the best offer from them.

Getting primary information

Having settled on several options, we carefully study the information provided on the car. At the same time, the description of the car should not be taken into account in particular, since the indicated data are far from always true, here it is more worth considering the attached photos (the more of them, the better).

You should also compare the indicated prices for the machines. You shouldn’t “go” for a price that is much lower than the market price, since almost always in such offers the car is problematic (fines “hang” on it or it is mortgaged in the bank, technically “killed”, something is wrong with the documents, etc.). d.). As a result, such a purchase will result in very serious and unpleasant consequences. Therefore, in terms of prices, one should stop at options with an average market value (with a slight deviation in a positive or negative direction).

After determining the cars, you can call the sellers. At this stage, you should ask:

• The technical condition of the car (but you shouldn’t trust the description too much, although if the seller is honest and just decided, he can talk about the problems and nuances of the car by phone);
• operating conditions;
• To whom the car is “registered” (the best option is if the seller or his close relatives are the owner according to the technical passport, and he agrees to deregister the car. It is better to skip the options when the seller has only a power of attorney for the car, because in the future with re-registration problems may arise)
• How many owners did the car have in total (1-2 owners - the most best option, 3 - allowed, more - you can stop talking and look for a car to purchase further);
• The period of ownership of the car by the owner (the more, the better. If he owns the car for only a couple of months, it is better to refuse to purchase such a car and believe the stories that “did not fit” or “urgently need money” is not worth it);
• The appropriateness of bargaining (ordinary sellers often agree to bargain within "reasonable limits");
• The opportunity to check the car at the service station (checking at the service station is one of the best options determine the technical condition of the car, especially for those who are “you” with the car, and if the seller refuses such a check, then something is “unclean” with the car. But in this case, you will have to agree on the issue of payment for the services of the service station);

Having clarified all the details, you can arrange a meeting to inspect the car "live". At the same time, going to the "bride" will not be superfluous the presence of a friend who is well versed in cars. Since if you will insure a car, it is better to know in advance all the "pitfalls"

Car inspection

Inspection of the car is perhaps the most important part of the choice, because it allows you to assess the condition of the car, identify defects and problems, which in the future will reduce the price or lead to the conclusion that the purchase should be abandoned.

Documentation, mileage

When we meet, we first consider PTS auto and other tech. documentation (the more the seller provides, the better). We also immediately check on those. passport body number.

The next criterion is mileage, but there are a lot of nuances here, so for the most part you will have to be content with the odometer readings. But here you can also make some calculations based on the information provided by the owner. For example, a car is 10 years old, and the owner indicates that he used the car only for personal purposes. With such operation, the average annual mileage varies in the range of 10-20 thousand km, and as a result, we find that the odometer should be approximately 100-200 thousand km. If it’s lower, the mileage is most likely twisted (we don’t pay attention to the stories that “only grandfather drove a car for bread”), and more mileage will indicate that the car was used very actively (for example, as a taxi or a work car). But such calculations give only an approximate result and it is impossible to take into account all the nuances, so you will have to rely on the honesty of the seller, as well as on what the technical condition of the car will “tell”.

After checking the documents, general inspection of the car and comparing its condition with the odometer readings, we proceed to a more detailed diagnosis of the condition.

power unit

The first thing to check is the engine attachments and aggregates. A clean motor with no traces of smudges, but well dusted with dust is the best indicator that power point in full working order and before the sale of anything done. Even if a small leak of technical fluid is noticed somewhere, this is not a reason to refuse a purchase, but at the same time it will help to “drop” the price a little.

But a thoroughly washed motor is a reason to be wary, since they usually try to hide traces of malfunctions or recent repairs (which is unknown how it was done) with a sink. New attachments and wiring may indicate that the vehicle has recently undergone major repairs (the reason for which is also not disclosed by the owner or he provides false information).

In addition to the engine, we also inspect all surfaces engine compartment(hood, engine shield, arches). Often they retain traces of strong smudges of those. liquids (if any).

Body and suspension

Next, we examine the body. In order not to miss the nuances, it is better if the inspection is performed in bright sunlight. Under such lighting, even slight discrepancies in paint shade will be noticeable, which will indicate touch-ups or body repairs.

Statements that the car is “not beaten, not painted” should not be paid attention at all, since according to statistics, about 90% of all cars received body damage during operation, but only the owner knows how serious they were (but it is not known whether he will tell the truth ).

Be sure to check the markings on the glasses (it should be the same everywhere), any discrepancies will indicate that some kind of glass was replaced.

Also inspect all body gaps(on doors, hood, trunk). Strong discrepancies in the size of the gaps are one of the signs that the body is “behaving”, and this is fraught with many problems in the future.

Yet again good helper in determining the condition of the car is dust - a thin layer of it on all surfaces will indicate that the seller of the car did not specially prepare the car for sale and provided it for inspection "as is". Naturally, he can wash the car to make it look better, but bumpers, nameplates, labels and other body attachments, as well as stickers rubbed to a shine, will indicate that it is beautiful. appearance the owner is trying to “blur” his eyes (popularly, this technique of dealers is called “smearing lips” on a car).

It will not hurt to inspect the bottom, but this will already require an inspection hole. A fresh layer of anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom is a sign that the seller is trying to hide obvious defects with mastic (in the case of the body, these are pockets of rust).

Being under the car, we immediately assess the condition of the suspension elements. There should be no smudges on the shock absorbers, silent blocks, bushings and anthers - whole and not exfoliated, etc.

We also check the condition of the tires. Their uneven wear will indicate at least unset camber / toe angles, and at most - to a “behaving” body.

Salon

Let's go to the salon. In it, we determine the degree of “wiping” of surfaces, especially those elements that are covered with covers (steering wheel, seats), as well as door handles, rugs. If everything in the cabin is new (the same covers) - perhaps the seller is trying to hide traces of intensive use of the car.

We also check the operability of all equipment, both internal and external - signal lamps dashboard, heater, air conditioner (if any), wipers and washer, turn signals, head light, rear headlights, etc.

Checking on the go

The final stage of self-examination is a short car ride. At the same time, you should not turn on the music, ask not to interfere with “listening” to the car, and choose a road for driving where a variety of road conditions meet - a straight and flat section (evaluate the operation of the engine - its throttle response, dynamics), with bumps and potholes (“ show "suspension work and show body squeaks), with turns (for evaluation brake system and steering).

After all this, either we start trading, or we additionally check the car at the service station. In the second case, you should offer to check the car at any first service station, but the buyer should choose the station, and not go to the one recommended by the seller (it will eliminate the likelihood that the seller will have “his own people” at the station).

Bargain

After all checks - bargaining. Here you should indicate all the identified defects and breakdowns, and based on them, agree on the issue of a discount. But here it is better to operate with specific figures in order to constructively prove the need for a price reduction. And for this, you should inquire about the cost of spare parts and repairs of the most common malfunctions and defects before the inspection. Below is a list of those components that most often require restoration, as well as an approximate one for work:

• Body work (underbody repair will cost $200-300, repainting - from $1000, rust removal - $100-300);
• Power unit (replacement of consumables - $ 50-150, overhaul– up to $1000);
• brake system or steering (200-400$);
• Pendant (from $50 to $400);
• Optics (headlights - $ 50-100, windshield – 100-250$);
• Exhaust system (cook - $ 30-40, replace - $ 100-150);

The indicated amounts are very approximate and a lot depends on the car itself, the complexity of damage and defects, as well as on who will carry out the repair (if self repair you can save a lot, but it is better to keep silent about this, telling the buyer that you will have to spend money on service stations).

Having agreed on the issue of price, we directly purchase and re-register the documents. But this process of buying a car is not over yet.

Primary maintenance

Having become the owner of a VAZ, it will not be superfluous to perform maintenance in order to be completely confident in the car (this operation is necessary even on those cars whose condition is “sit down and go”).

At the first MOT of your car, you should:

• • Replace all those. liquids (it is not known when and what the previous owner filled in);
  • Change engine consumables (drive belts);
  • Assess the condition of the brake pads;
  • Replace suspension consumables;
  • Check and adjust camber/toe angles;

This is a necessary minimum before you start normal operation of the car. And already in the process of use, gradually eliminate the remaining defects and breakdowns.

Signs of a scam

The main signs that the buyer is trying to "suck firewood" are:

• Reduced price;
• Abundant "lip makeup" machine;
• Obstruction by any means to a normal and comprehensive inspection of the car;
• Failure of diagnostics at the service station;
• Attempts to reduce the scale of the problem (something like “yes, I turned it off for such and such a reason, but if you plug it back in, it will work”);
• Easy pliability in price;

If all this is noticed during the inspection, then it is better to look for a car for purchase from other sellers.

As a result, we note that all of these measures do not guarantee a successful purchase, since in this matter a lot depends on which seller comes across, but they do reduce the likelihood of acquiring a problem car.

When there are not enough financial opportunities to purchase a new car, many people leave their choice on a used one. . Among Russians, front-wheel drive "eights" and "nines" are especially popular - these VAZ models have earned their trust with reliability, practicality, unpretentiousness and reliability. We bring to your attention some simple useful tips - what to look for in order to choose the right used car.

How to choose the right used VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099? Helpful Hints:

• Of course, first of all, it all depends on the financial capabilities of the person who wants to buy a car. But for 100-150 thousand rubles in the car market you can buy a fairly good car, despite the fact that it has already been in someone's hands. It should be noted that a used foreign car will cost about twice as much. In addition, you need to take into account the cost of very expensive spare parts, etc.
• Having opted for domestic car, first of all it is necessary to make sure of its legal purity. In order not to have problems with the law in the future, it is first necessary to deal with all legal nuances.
• Of course, without the necessary legal knowledge and without the database of cars that law enforcement agencies have, this is not easy to do.

But still, before purchasing a used car, you need to familiarize yourself with some legal basics.

• The main document of the car is the passport vehicle. This document confirms the seller's ownership of this machine. The passport contains data about the car itself, as well as about all its owners. The seller must have the original passport. In the event that a duplicate passport is provided upon purchase, you must be careful and find out from the owner the reason for obtaining a duplicate car passport. In addition to the vehicle passport, the seller is required to have his own passport and vehicle registration certificate.
• You need to carefully study the documents provided. This is necessary in order to make sure that you are not dealing with scammers. It will also become clear how many people already owned this car. Also, according to the documents, you can find out what technical changes the car was subjected to: replacement, replacement of body parts, repainting in a different color.
• Naturally, the less the car had owners, the better. If the car has been with several owners for a short time, then this fact should alert - there must be good reasons why the owners tried to get rid of this car as quickly as possible.
• Only after checking all the documents, you can begin to inspect the car itself. First you need to step back a few meters and externally inspect the car from different angles. The body parts of the car must be without deformation, and its color must not have different shades - this is evidence that the body was straightened and subsequently painted. Minor abrasions and scratches on the bumper indicate the carelessness of the owner when operating the car.
• Next, you should determine the condition of the rubber, which can tell a lot. Uniformly worn tires should not cause suspicion, but if they are worn unevenly, you should think about it. This can cause problems with camber adjustment or malfunctions in the steering or support rods.
• Discs also need to be carefully inspected. The presence of dents indicates that the car at speed fell into a serious hole or an open hatch. As a result, the running units may be damaged, and may even be slightly deformed.
• After that, you can begin to inspect the interior. There are several secrets by which you can find out the true state of affairs of the car. A worn steering wheel and gear shift knob, worn rubber bands on the brake and gas pedals indicate a significant mileage of the car, although there may be quite a few thousand kilometers on the counter - mileage can be “reset” as much as you like. Much more can be learned from the state of the shift knob, steering wheel and pedals, despite the assurances of the owner of the car that its mileage does not exceed 30 thousand, since it was in the garage almost all the time.
• You need to be very careful, as there is always a risk of buying a car that was used as a taxi. Despite the age of 3-4 years, if the owner moonlighted as a driver, the car may turn out to be as "killed" as its 10-15-year-old counterparts.
• After inspecting the interior, you need to inspect the engine compartment. The first step is to make sure that there are no engine compartment smudges of antifreeze or oil. The engine does not have to be clean - the main thing is that it must be dry. A clean engine indicates that it was washed before being sold, so it is difficult to determine the presence of problems in this case. It is also necessary to check the engine number with that indicated in the car's passport. It is also necessary to verify the number and body number.
• After making sure that the numbers match, and also that they are not interrupted, you need to ask to start the car and observe the operation of the engine. In a serviceable car, the engine runs steadily, smoothly, without vibrations and failures. You can use a small test - put an ordinary matchbox on the motor. If it does not move out, then the engine is adjusted correctly. A box that has moved out indicates the presence of certain problems with engine adjustment.
• You need to ask the owner of the car what condition the power unit is in, how often oil is added during operation, and how often it is replaced. It is believed that in gasoline engines oil is filled only when it is changed, there is no need to add oil between changes. The engine in normal condition does not "eat" oil.
• Next, you need to stop the engine and check the oil level on the dipstick - it should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If the maximum level is exceeded, oil will be ejected through the filler neck. If the oil level is less than the minimum, the car cannot be operated at all. An oil that is too viscous and thick indicates a recent oil change, while a light oil indicates a very recent oil change. And yet, it is better to follow the recommendation suggested by experience: change the oil immediately after buying a used car.
• At the last stage, you need to get behind the wheel yourself, drive a few meters and listen to how the car picks up speed. Gears should shift easily, without jerks. The speed should increase in proportion to the pressure on

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The brainchild of the Togliatti Automobile Plant are still the most popular vehicles in the Russian secondary market. They are chosen for a number of reasons, including: affordable cost, inexpensive repairs, good fitness to domestic off-road and unpretentiousness in operation. However, choosing a used car is always associated with a certain risk of acquiring a problematic car, both legally and technically. The autocode tells how to choose a VAZ car, and what to look for when buying.

How to choose a used VAZ car

First, let's talk about what should be paid attention in the first place.

Iron

It's no secret that the most expensive repairs require the car body. Therefore, first of all, we look at the state of iron. Read more on how to check the paintwork and body geometry of a used car. If you find signs that the car was repainted, or its body geometry is broken, most likely the vehicle has been in a serious accident. It is better to refuse the choice of such a car. Also, do not buy a vehicle with traces of corrosion. Cars of the VAZ family rust quite quickly. And it may take a lot of effort and money to slow down the "bloom" of body elements.

Internal stuffing

• transmission ( extraneous noise when shifting gears, as well as difficulties with shifting them, indicate problems with the gearbox, the replacement of which (especially if it is an automatic machine) will cost several tens of thousands of rubles);
• suspension elements (rocking the car while driving is the first sign of problems);
• engine (dark or gray exhaust when running power unit indicates that the latter needs a major overhaul, which will also cost a pretty penny);
• electrical equipment (electrical problems are quite common with used VAZs, so if you find involuntary operation of the wipers or a sound signal when inspecting the car, be prepared to replace the mounting block).

As they say, there are always two "fools" in the market - one sells, the other buys. The owner in 99 cases out of 100 is not going to inform you about all the malfunctions of his used car. If you are not sure that you can independently identify shortcomings technical condition TS - it's wise to take a knowledgeable person with you. He will help make right choice and, if necessary, will report those malfunctions that you simply will not notice. If finances allow - one of the most rational options is to check a used car in a specialized service center. True, for high-quality diagnostics you will have to pay several thousand rubles.

You can order an on-site inspection on the Autocode website.

Which VAZ models are preferable

When choosing a used car, one of the main parameters is its cost. For used VAZ cars with a price tag of 40-50 thousand rubles. It's better not to pay attention at all. For that kind of money, in most cases, sellers offer a pile of scrap metal, which will require considerable financial investments and frequent repairs. Next, consider more expensive options.

Budget 60-70 thousand rubles.

In this price category, it is optimal to choose representatives of the classics - VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106 or VAZ 2107. It is advisable to buy a car no older than 2003-2004. These are reliable and time-tested cars that, with proper care and observance of the operating rules, will last for more than one year.

Budget 80-90 thousand rubles.

Here, the undoubted leader is the VAZ 21099, released 10-12 years ago. It is better to choose a vehicle with an injector. Specialists do not recommend buying cars with a carburetor. If you decide to opt for this model - Special attention check the brake system. Make sure that no oil or other fluids are leaking, and there is no rust on the arches and sills. Moreover, weak point VAZ 21099 is considered a cabin heater, so make sure it works. Another problem inherent in these models is the strong rattling of parts. interior decoration interior, which, however, is observed in almost all old Zhiguli models.

Budget 120-160 thousand rubles.

• good value for money;
• the level of technological equipment, which is not inferior to many manufacturers;
• high ground clearance, which ensures high cross-country ability;
• roomy interior;
• decent anti-corrosion properties of the body.

If you decide to choose a used VAZ 2112, first of all, check the engine. Extraneous noise from under the hood will indicate problems with the hydraulic lifters. In addition, ask the seller what type of fuel was used to refuel the vehicle: gasoline of the 92nd brand does not have the best effect on the stability of the 16-valve power unit.

VAZ 2114 does not differ much in design from the models of the 9th series, therefore it has the same problems as the VAZ 21099 (they were mentioned above).

Budget from 200 thousand rubles.

If you decide to choose a more expensive used car, pay attention to Priora or Grant. These models are distinguished by high safety indicators, increased interior comfort, and good soundproofing properties. Among the shortcomings, experts note whimsicality to the quality of fuel (it is desirable to refuel a car with the 95th brand of gasoline), oil and other consumables.

Residents of rural areas, as well as citizens who are fond of outdoor activities, travel, hunting or fishing, experts recommend choosing Lada Largus or Niva. Models are highly portable roomy interior and ease of use.

Whatever model of VAZ you choose, before making a purchase, check the used car using the all-Russian Internet service "Autocode". Enter in the search field on our website state. vehicle number or VIN. In a few minutes you will be able to see detailed history vehicle. The report will contain information about the number of owners of a used car, the presence of encumbrances and restrictions on registration actions in the traffic police, information about fines, accidents and other useful data, on the basis of which you will draw conclusions about the reasonableness of buying a car.

In order not to waste time and effort, you need to determine as accurately as possible what, in fact, needs to be purchased and how much money is available for the purchase.

Spraying on the many proposed "similar" options is not worth it. If you need a sedan, then choose only a sedan. If needed mechanical box, in the search conditions, put "only MCP". Ideally, of course, by the time the request is made, you need to clearly understand what brand and model of car you are going to buy. We need Renault Logan, which means we are looking at Renault Logan, and not Clio Symbol, Sandero and Polo Sedan to the heap. Keep in mind that even the most “wonderful” used car will require some expenses after the purchase.

Whatever one may say, but in the first month you will have to fork out at least every little thing like new wipers, anthers, bushings, nuts, new tires, polishing, dry cleaning, and possibly something more serious. Therefore, it is better to postpone 10-15% of the amount planned for the purchase of a car and not spend everything to the last penny. Just in case, which, as practice shows, happens regularly with used cars.

2. Throw out the cheapest and most expensive options

The cost of a car is the most abstract value in an ad, because a person always wants to buy low and sell high. The price tag in most cases does not reflect the real value of the car, but the desire of the seller. Therefore, it is worth determining the average cost of the proposed options and focusing on ads, the range of which differs from it within 20%. Too cheap offers of a car with the same characteristics cause strong suspicions. And the expensive ones in most cases demonstrate the unjustified requirements.

3. Compare year and mileage

Vehicle mileage is another very “slippery” parameter, which is difficult to navigate. In general, almost everyone involved in the sale and purchase of cars is involved in “twisting” the speedometer, from “private traders” to official dealers.

And yet, some conclusions can be drawn before you go to see the car. First of all, it is worth remembering that mileage directly depends on the size of the city in which the car drove. So, in St. Petersburg and Moscow with their avenues, "ring" and trips to the country for 100-200 km from the city average mileage can be from 20,000 to 40,000 km per year, or even more.

So if the car, for example, is five years old, then the mileage, most likely, has already exceeded a hundred thousand. Accordingly, when you see an advertisement for a car manufactured in 2008-2009 with a mileage of 35,000 - 40,000 km, you should think about the authenticity of this data.

4. Analyze car popularity category

Exceptions, of course, always and everywhere. Therefore, in addition to mileage, you should also pay attention to a specific brand and model, as well as its popularity among a particular group of drivers.

In particular, cars popular with the beautiful half of humanity can indeed have very low mileage. But "ladies" cars have another problem, namely, a lot of minor body damage. Even brand new cars are beaten, scratched, worn on all sides and, as a result, repainted several times.

Another example: Renault Logan, Chevrolet Lacetti, Hyundai Accent, Peugeot Partner, Volkswagen Caddies, extremely popular among domestic taxi drivers, have a mileage that crosses a hundred thousand milestone in a year. So, choosing one of the above models, the chance of running into just such a “traveled” car increases dramatically. By the way, most of the Mercedes cars imported from Germany with monstrous mileage, “twisted” somewhere on the border, fall into the same category.

Do not neglect the theft ratings, which are more often than others Japanese cars. And in cars like the BMW X5, you can easily detect not only problems with documents, but also holes smeared in the body of 7.62 caliber ...

Find out which cars became the most popular last year from our review.

5. Look carefully at the photos

A person chooses primarily with his eyes, so almost two-thirds of the information on the car can be obtained from the proposed photos. Their presence must be treated very carefully, and most importantly, to be able to consider in them what is needed.

Ads without photos can be sorted immediately. It’s not worth wasting time even on calls on an abstract car: what kind of seller is he who hasn’t bothered about presenting his own car? For the same reason, we advise you to send ads with blurry and blurry pictures and photos taken at night, as well as with images where the car is represented only in parts.

Photos must be provided in sufficient quantity and High Quality so that they can be seen pockets of rust, body damage, the size of the gaps, the condition paintwork and even traces of body repair.

For example, if the shade of the color of the door (hood, fender, bumper) differs sharply from the main color of the car, then this element has been repainted. And if so, it is likely that it was restored after an accident.

From the pictures of the interior, you can determine how carefully and carefully the owner treated the car, as well as signs of participation in an accident. For example, if the pad on the steering wheel hub (under which the airbag is located) sparkles with newness or differs in color from the steering wheel rim, most likely the airbag has already been changed for no reason.

how to choose the right vaz 2106
A classic that has captivated thousands of people. The legendary "six", which still flickers on the roads of the former Soviet Union and not only. Over the thirty-year history of this car, more than four million copies have been produced. This is the most massive production of AvtoVAZ. Nowadays, this car is in demand.
How to choose the right VAZ 2106? Each car has its pros and cons, as well as nuances that you should pay attention to.

Walk around the car first and carefully evaluate its surfaces. First of all, we pay attention to the condition of the body, both outside and inside, for iron corrosion. Especially if the car is over 10 years old. Well check the bottom of the passenger compartment and trunk. You can even knock on it with some kind of screwdriver or hammer. Inspect thresholds and jacking locations. Classics as such are not framed. The role of the frame is performed by "spars". They also need to be carefully examined for deformation and welding. Be sure to check the bottom of the cabin and trunk. Determine the presence of "wing liner".

The next step in choosing a car is to inspect the engine. The heart of the car must be in perfect condition and not have traces of run-through oil. Check the oil. Open the filler cap where the oil is poured. If, when the engine is running exhaust pipe or from the filler neck oil is coming thick, or bluish smoke, it will soon need a major overhaul. We also pay attention to the sound of a running engine. There should be no extraneous noise. The engine should run smoothly, without twitching. You can also turn out the spark plugs. They should be sandy in color, without soot and plaque. At the same time, if desired, you can check the compression.
"Six" in its own way is very universal machine. It fits perfectly both on the tracks and on the streets of the city, because it is a fairly maneuverable car and has good speed. Very soft suspension absorbs all the bumps and potholes of our roads. Therefore, when buying a VAZ 2106, you need to pay attention to the suspension and transmission. Because the repair of these nodes can fly a pretty penny. It is necessary to visually inspect the condition of the levers and rods. They should not have cracks. Shaking the car, we determine the condition of the shock absorbers and ball bearings. Next, we start the car and drive out onto the road. We check the switching of all speeds. Switching should be soft and silent. Having dispersed the "six" to 90-100 km / h, we listen to the noise rear axle. If there is noise, then this is definitely an expensive repair.

We look into the interior of the car. Opening and closing doors should be soft. The most painful places are the seats and the instrument panel. Seats very often break and are repaired by welding. Therefore, we check the ability of the seats to “ride” on the sled and lean back. The instrument panel tends to burst from direct sunlight. We check the performance of all lighting devices, signals, wipers, power windows and especially the stove. VAZ 2106 is a very warm car and the stove has no complaints. But still, you need to turn it on and check for extraneous noise, which should not be. The upholstery must be tightly fixed.
And finally, you need to check the condition of the wiring. The wires must be neatly assembled and not have unnecessary self-made twists. The wiring must be clean and not stick out with a "broom" from all the cracks. Check the fuse block.
In principle, these are basic tips to know how to choose the right VAZ 2106. Good luck on the road!

HOW TO WASH A CAR ENGINE?

Washing the engine is necessary to avoid engine fire, as engine oil residue on the engine evaporates into combustible vapor causing fire.

A small amount of water pressure along with automotive chemicals will give the desired result. As automotive chemistry for the engine, it is better to use a foam engine cleaner.

Foam engine cleaner quickly removes dirt and does not harm plastic and rubber. Ordinary household chemicals are useless and unable to remove motor oil from the engine. It is possible to wash the engine in the following way:

• All places where water should not get are covered with polyethylene;
• It is necessary to wait until the engine warms up, becomes warm and turn it off;
• The battery is removed or you can remove the terminal from the minus;
• Apply foam engine cleaner to the engine and wait a couple of minutes for the dirt to dissolve;
• It is necessary to wash the foamy engine cleaner from the engine and dry the engine.

You can use a mixture of baking soda and water to clean the battery.

After washing the engine, it is better to dry it with a compressor, but if it is not available, you can use a vacuum cleaner. It is better to wash the engine twice a year, but you can wash it once a year.

WHEN REPLACING SHOCK ABSORBERS, SHOULD THE SPRINGS BE CHANGED OR NOT?

Due to the poor quality of the roads, the suspension suffers greatly. The most common suspension failures are springs and shock absorbers.

Springs are an integral part of the suspension, as are shock absorbers. Shock absorbers and springs allow for a smooth ride of the machine and its handling on the road. The springs are used to soften the shocks when driving on a bad road. If the wheels of the car run into an obstacle, they are thrown up, and they become uncontrollable.

Shock absorbers help the springs to quickly dampen wheel vibrations. Since shock absorbers are complex devices, they have to be changed frequently.

For normal operation of the suspension, it is necessary that the shock absorbers and springs function well. The springs help support the weight of the car, and the movement of the springs is controlled by the shock absorbers. This implies that shock absorbers depend on springs, just like springs depend on shock absorbers. When the spring fails, the work of the spring is shifted to the shock absorber, which leads to a quick failure of the shock absorber.

The spring fails for a number of reasons:

• Great wear of the metal;
• The surface of the spring is damaged;
• The impact of an aggressive external environment on the spring.

WHICH IS BETTER TO CHOOSE A NEW OR USED ENGINE?

When overhauling the engine, everything rests on money. The price for a major overhaul of a multi-cylinder engine can start from 90,000 rubles. Many owners of such motors are beginning to wonder if it is better to buy for that kind of money new engine Or at least a used one.

A new engine for foreign cars costs almost as much as building an overhaul of the engine. Used engines include engines supplied from abroad. Abroad, a broken car is dismantled for spare parts, and the engines are usually not damaged in such cars. These engines are in good condition And they don't have much range.

A guarantee for such an engine is almost never given, but such engines are inexpensive.

Most of the used engines come from abroad. Engines from abroad worked in favorable conditions.

If the engine managed to run 200 thousand kilometers, then you should not buy such an engine due to the fact that it has used up most of its resource. It is better to buy a used engine with a mileage of 70 thousand kilometers, or from Europe to buy an engine with a mileage of 100 thousand kilometers. Engines from Europe with such a run can run another 500 thousand kilometers.

Performed by Dmitry Prizhennikov (diiimonpr)

Performer Shumakov Andrey Andreevich (sumakov)