The suspension of any car is always the first to take a hit from road bumps. Depending on the design and settings, suspension units are designed to most effectively dampen shock loads from road surface irregularities, as well as to ensure vehicle controllability and stability on high speeds when cornering, as well as with a sharp change in the trajectory of movement (“snake”, detour of an obstacle). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements performs its role. Pins and levers support the wheel in a given plane, providing unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).

The principle of operation of stabilizers

Springs provide elasticity and return of suspension elements to their original state, and shock absorbers - smooth running and damping of elastic body vibrations. At the same time, even the flawless operation of the listed elements to ensure safe movement not enough. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern car, you can see another element - a stabilizer roll stability. in suspension front axle the stabilizer is a curved lever, attached with one shoulder to the wheel hub assembly, the other - to the subframe. Fasteners - not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.

The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when passing corners with a small radius or with a sharp change in the trajectory of movement. In the widely used MacPherson type front suspension, the anti-roll bar is a torsion bar that works in torsion. This arm is rigidly connected to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it with the help of additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device is able to prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its rollover), while maintaining a straight trajectory.

in suspension rear axle anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with four-wheel drive all wheels. On many rear-wheel drive vehicles with a solid rear axle beam, the role of the stabilizer is performed by a torque rod (Panhard rod). Some all-wheel drive models of Japanese production of past years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land cruiser 80, etc.), along with the Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod passing through the entire beam of the rear axle and connected through short levers with the power elements of the body or frame. Principle of operation rear stabilizer similar to the principle of operation of the front: reduction of the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.

Signs of a bad stabilizer bushing

To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are fastened through elastic elements. The stabilizer units are no exception, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber. As a result of many factors: poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, defects are observed in the operation of the anti-roll bar, which manifest themselves over time on an increasing basis.

The first harbingers of the need to replace the bushings are. In contrast to the knocking of shock absorbers, it occurs not only when driving through road bumps, but also when cornering with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of play in the joints of the stabilizer arms as a result of bushing wear. If this is not given importance, then subsequently the "symptoms" may increase.

The rattling knocks of the suspension will intensify and begin to accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll heavily in corners, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (if the bushings on both wheels are heavily worn, or if the stabilizer beam breaks). In some cases, it starts to "play" wheel. The car loses its sharpness of control, it becomes rolled. It is possible to "yaw" and pull towards a faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and trajectory. Other extraneous noises and vibrations may appear in the suspension. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing bushings after 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is rattling and knocking when cornering and body roll.

Suspension inspection

Before inspection, it is desirable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. When visually inspecting all the elastic elements of the suspension, it is easy to detect a damaged part. If the bushing is worn or damaged, abrasions and cracks are visible on it, which are called “daisies” among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that form rubber elements when cracked. Loss of elasticity, “hardening” of rubber is also a sure sign of an upcoming replacement. If for some reason (lack of a lift, a viewing hole or the nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, you can determine the degree of wear by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (B-pillar) and shake the car a little from side to side. The presence of knocks, squeaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension can serve as an indirect indication for the replacement of elastic bushings.

For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto a flyover or viewing hole. To determine the condition of the elements of the anti-roll bar, it is necessary to shake the junctions of all suspension arms using a crowbar or mounting blade. To do this, it is necessary to lean on the mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging protective coating and with a slight wiggle, alternately press on all the stabilizer mounts to be checked. If during such a manipulation in at least one joint there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - a loss of elasticity - then half the battle is already done! It remains only to replace the worn bushing.

Video - How to replace the stabilizer bushings on a VAZ

How to change stabilizer bushings

To replace rubber bushings front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, all work is best done not on a lift or on a jack, when all the wheels of the car are hung out, but on a viewing hole using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung out on a lift or jack. After hanging and securely fastening, to access the stabilizer parts, remove the wheel (wheels on the same axle), fender liner and crankcase protection. After that, the stabilizer mounts are loosened, including the mounting brackets to the body or subframe.

If threaded connections do not lend themselves due to oxides or heavy contamination, they must be processed to avoid stripping or shearing of bolts. special fluid to facilitate unscrewing. Before loosening the fasteners, it is necessary to raise the lower arm with a jack or put a stop. When replacing the bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is more desirable), it is necessary to jack up or set the stops on the axles of the front wheels.

This procedure is necessary to remove the load from the stabilizer beam for easier bushing replacement. After all these conditions are met, it is possible to remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing with its subsequent replacement with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for ease of installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.

Original repair kits always have the correct amount of grease to lubricate the inside of the bushings before replacement. The assembly of all stabilizer assemblies and other elements of the car is carried out in the reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.

Pendant of any modern car consists of elastic elements that perceive the bumps in the road. Further, the transverse beam redistributes the received forces and displaces the wheels. This whole system of levers and beams was called the anti-roll bar of the car.

The purpose of an anti-roll bar is to keep the vehicle stable when external forces change, such as when cornering. The lateral force generated during this maneuver is capable of overturning the car with significant body roll. By virtue of its design feature, the anti-roll bar equalizes the lateral force acting on the outer and inner wheels with respect to the turn. Depending on the type of drive, the stabilizer can be made in the form of a single curved beam or a system of levers.

As a rule, a dependent car suspension is characterized by one curved element, while an independent one has a system of levers. To avoid noise caused by the movements of the stabilizer elements and vibration damping, the stabilizer is attached to the body by means of elastic elements - bushings.

The stabilizer bushing absorbs vibration from the suspension units, thereby giving a more smooth ride to the car and reducing noise.

The sleeve is an elastic part made of rubber by casting. The shape of the bushing may vary depending on the structural elements of a particular vehicle, but in general the shape is similar. To increase durability and reliability, on some models the sleeve is reinforced with tides and grooves. The wear of the bushing is visible visually - cracks and abrasions appear on it, the bushing becomes hard and inelastic.

When is it time to change the stabilizer bushings?

If the stabilizer bushings are malfunctioning, the following symptoms appear:

Steering wheel play when cornering;
Steering wheel wobble;
The manifestation of characteristic clicks when the car body rolls;
"Yaw" of the car when driving;
Car withdrawal when driving in one direction;
Vibration in suspension units;
Appearance extraneous noise during suspension operation

In case of detection of these signs, we recommend signing up for the diagnosis and repair of the car suspension.

In the event of a malfunction of the stabilizer bar bushings, the following work is performed:

Car wash;
Raising the car on a lift;
Removing the wheels of the car;
Removing the fender liner or other plastic protection;
Removing fasteners from the stabilizer elements;
Removing the mount from the stabilizer bushing bracket;
Replacing the bushing with a new one.

On some car models, to facilitate the replacement of the bushing, it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. For ease of installation of this elastic element, the sleeve is split.

The stabilizer bushings must be replaced after 30 thousand kilometers or when the above signs of malfunction appear. To avoid "yaw" of the car when driving, both stabilizer bushings are replaced, regardless of the degree of wear of both. To increase the service life of the elastic element of the anti-roll bar, with each maintenance it is necessary to clean them of dirt, since its particles in the bushing - stabilizer link interface are a source of additional wear.

The bushing is an important element of the suspension, since the safety of driving depends on it. If, as a result of vehicle diagnostics, it was found that the stabilizer bushings have become unusable, they must be replaced in a timely manner. The replacement process is not difficult, so you can do it in the garage, armed with a small amount of tools.

What tools are needed?

If, with an increase in speed or a collision with an obstacle, the suspension begins to make noise, we can talk about a malfunction of its elements. In such cases, most often it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings. To do this, prepare the tools:

• head collar,
• ratchet,
• a metal brush, which is needed to clean the seat and stabilizer from rust,
• brush for applying penetrating lubricant,
• stationery knife for cutting the sleeve.

Dismantling features

Replacing such an important structural element of the undercarriage of the machine as a bushing requires a responsible approach. If rubber products were previously installed, it is advisable to replace them with polyurethane products created by the Tochka Opory brand. Polyurethane parts make driving easier even when overcoming difficult road conditions. In addition, they protect the suspension and bodywork and have a long service life.

Dismantling begins with stripping the mounting bolts and applying a penetrating lubricant to facilitate the process. After that, the fixing nuts are unscrewed, the brackets of the stabilizer bushing are dismantled. Rust, rubber residues must be removed from all working surfaces. They are lubricated for added protection. After removing the old products, you need to inspect the stabilizer itself and seat.

Installation of polyurethane parts

New bushings come in a set of two, waterproof grease for fitting them, and instructions. To begin with, they are cut in the place where the dismantled parts were cut. For this, a clerical knife is used, which is pre-wetted in water to facilitate the work.

Lubricant is applied inside the bushing with a brush. Clamps must be protected from dirt, rust. Otherwise, the product is deformed, a creak will appear inside it. It is imperative to clean the seat, and the stabilizer must be treated to eliminate dirt and dust with a special lubricant.

Polyurethane products must be mounted with a cut in the same direction as the worn parts were located. It remains to put the brackets in place, bait and tighten the nuts. The tightening torque should be set in accordance with the instructions. The video will tell you more about replacing the stabilizer bushing.

Why brand "Point of Support"?

We recommend using polyurethane bushings of the Tochka Opory brand as new elements of the car suspension. Spare parts made of polyurethane prevent premature wear running gear of the car. In addition, polyurethane products due to their elasticity, resistance to natural factors and unpretentiousness are ideal for use in the climatic conditions of Russia.

Most rubber bushings lose their properties due to exposure to adverse factors. Polyurethane parts will keep performance characteristics even at low temperatures. At the same time, controllability vehicle will be better, and the frequency of replacement of suspension elements will decrease.

In our online store you can buy stabilizer bushings made of polyurethane brand "Point of Opory": always in stock big choice products of this brand. Experienced managers will help with the choice of goods in the IXORA store.

Manufacturer	Detail number	Part Name	Applicability*
TOCHKA OPORY	3021414		MITSUBISHI COLT Z2 (2002.10 -) PAJERO MINI H53A, H
TOCHKA OPORY	1011041		TOYOTA AVENSIS AZT250, AZT255 (2003.07 -)
TOCHKA OPORY	101897		TOYOTA AVENSIS AZT250.. 251…SED (2006.06 -) WG..LI (2003.07 -)
TOCHKA OPORY	101755		TOYOTA CAMRY ACV30
TOCHKA OPORY	101040		TOYOTA COROLLA AE101 (1997.05 - 2000.08) SPRINTER AE101 GT
TOCHKA OPORY	9012176		SUZUKI GRAND VITARA
TOCHKA OPORY	26012665		GREAT WALL HOVER SAFE
TOCHKA OPORY	101758		TOYOTA COROLLA FIELDER COROLLA RUNX ALLEX NZE124, ZZE124 C
TOCHKA OPORY	8011034		SUBARU FORESTER SH5, SH9, SHJ (2007.09 -) LEGACY B4 BL5, B
TOCHKA OPORY	8011643		SUBARU IMPREZA (2008.07 -) FORESTER (2007.09 -)
TOCHKA OPORY	12011506		HYUNDAI ACCENT VERNA (1999 -)
TOCHKA OPORY	3011213		MITSUBISHI LANCER MIRAGE ASTI CS5A, CS5W AIRTREK CU4W
TOCHKA OPORY	4012198		MAZDA CX7ER (2006-)
TOCHKA OPORY	17032072		VAZ 2101, MOSKVICH 2140
TOCHKA OPORY	202658		NISSAN SENTRA B1
TOCHKA OPORY	12012703		KIA MENTOR (HB) I, II (1997 - 2004), KIA CARENS (1999 - 2002)
TOCHKA OPORY	301886

If the cars always drove in a straight line, and if they didn’t accelerate or slow down, the stabilizer would not be needed at all. His work begins every time the car tries to tilt. Whether it is lateral roll when cornering or longitudinal when braking, the stabilizer tries to keep the body parallel to the road surface. And despite the elementary design, he does it well.

The stabilizer is just a link that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (today we will talk about MacPherson strut front suspension, so let's say it's easier - with a suspension arm). It should be noted that just MacPherson really, really needs the use of a stabilizer, mainly due to some compromise in the design. The camber angle is static there, but with rolls it changes due to the peculiarities of the suspension scheme. Why is it bad? The fact that changing the camber angles inevitably reduces the contact area of ​​the tire with the road. And the only way to avoid this phenomenon is to reduce the roll. This is where the stabilizer helps, which works like a torsion bar: with a lateral roll, the opposite ends, fixed in the levers, begin to move in different directions, twisting the middle part. The resulting moment prevents further relative movement of the wheels, reducing the roll. As you can see, it works very simply.

But in order not to become a fan of the cult of the stabilizer, it is necessary to say a few words about its shortcomings. First, the stabilizer willy-nilly reduces suspension travel. Of course, this is not critical for a passenger car, but for an SUV it can be harmful. Well, and secondly, you should not get carried away with replacing the stabilizer with some more rigid ones, which some car owners sometimes like to do. In their opinion, a more durable stabilizer will help to almost completely avoid rolls and turn a Zhiguli into a Formula 1 car. This is a very dangerous delusion.

The very first thing Kulibin will encounter with a piece of iron as thick as an arm in the front suspension is an unexpectedly easy drift into a skid due to an unhealthy imbalance in the adhesion of the front and rear wheels with the road (at the rear it will be insufficient). It must be understood that the engineers developing the suspensions carefully calculated not only each of the suspensions, but also their joint work. And if it is incorrect to intervene in the work of one of them, the controllability as a whole will decrease, although the roll, quite possibly, will become a little less.

So, what does the bushings have to do with it, and why change them? As I said, the stabilizer must be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the right and left wheels. If it is welded or rigidly attached to the subframe in any other way, it will be deprived of such an opportunity, which is why it is attached to it with the help of bushings. Over time, they are erased, and the stabilizer begins to “walk” in them.

This play, like any other, increases the degrees of freedom of the part, which negate all its ability to prevent roll. And then in the corners the car begins to fall on its side more than it should.

Not every motorist will immediately notice this, so they change the bushings in other cases: if wear is detected during suspension diagnostics, or if it is already starting to knock. However, the second situation is usually more characteristic not due to physical wear, but due to a good blow or other mechanical effect.

So, we are imbued with the understanding that the bushings must be replaced periodically, and this is completely normal. Let's see how to do it.

What will be needed?

What's great about this repair is that it's inexpensive. And I would even say that it makes no sense to do it with your own hands, no matter how skillful they may be. Therefore, we will go to the service and just watch how the specialist does it.

You will need a minimum of a tool: an 18 mm head and a 10 mm key (or head). But look at the key: why did life cripple him so? In fact, we have before us not just a key, but the Modernized Special Tool of Alexei Teleshov, we will call it that.

Since we will be changing the bushings on Logan, we will have to take into account some of its features, so such a tricky key may come in handy. In addition, you will have to look for a lift, and it is likely that a hydraulic rack (we used it, anyway) along with a grinder. So, despite the apparent simplicity, it is not so simple.

Now about the cost of spare parts. There is no point in chasing the original, there are very worthy manufacturers, especially since the sleeve is a piece of rubber, and it’s not so hard to do something there. Therefore, we pay attention to two running models: the French Sasic for 160 rubles and the Belgian Sidem for 180. We will choose Sasic.

We go into the box and get up on the lift.

As is usually the case with threaded connections at the bottom of the machine, they have long been covered with a layer of dirt and sour. Therefore, before starting work, it makes sense to pour WD 40 bolts. We wait a little and pull out the same key with a broken fate into the light and try to unscrew the bolt ten from above (seen in the photo).

Naturally, this is as useless as asking a cat to go through an ajar door faster (if you have a cat, you will understand the futility of the plan). But in this case, the very design of the Logan suspension helps us: this bolt is usually simply cut off, because its purpose is not clear to anyone, even for a heavier and off-road Duster, this knot is made simpler and a little more gentle (and the bolt there is of a smaller diameter). Therefore, the specialist draws a mark with a white marker, according to which it will be necessary to cut off the ear of the collar. Now it's up to the "Bulgarian": we cut off this ear and go to the other side.

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Here the matter is complicated by the dangerous proximity of the clamp to the fuel pipes. They will have to be removed. This is easy to do: unscrew the nearest bolt to protect the oil pan, after which the tubes can be pulled out of the latches and taken to the side. So that they do not interfere, they can be fixed with a hook from any sufficiently rigid wire. But all this will have to be done only if the eyelet is to be cut off from this side too - for some reason, the bolt here for some reason was easily unscrewed.

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Now we remove the clamp. We unscrew the head of the only fixing bolt. Removing the clamp is not so easy, so we take the assembly tool and hook it up by the hole of this bolt. Everything, the clamp is in our hands. Now, with the same mounting tool, we remove the stabilizer from the subframe and take out the bushing. For the sake of interest, let's compare the new and old bushings. On the part that we just removed, wear is visible, but it is not yet critical. A well-defined ovality is noticeable at the finally killed bushing. But if we started to change, then we do the work to the end.

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We take the installation tool again and again move the stabilizer away from the subframe. We put the sleeve, after which the assembly can be removed. To make it easier to install the clamp, we use grease (we used copper). We apply it to both the clamp and the bolt.

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This is necessary in order, firstly, to make it easier to put on the clamp, and secondly, it is easier to unscrew the bolt next time. Pushing the clamp into place by hand is not always possible. I would even say that it always fails. Hitting the rubber with a hammer is usually useless, so we drag a hydraulic rack under the car. We rest it on the collar and slightly raise it. If everything is assembled correctly (although what can be assembled incorrectly there?), Then the holes on the clamp and subframe will match, and we will only have to bait the bolt and then tighten it to the end.

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It happens that the collar does not want to get into place. In this case, do not try to pull it onto the sleeve with excessive force: it can be damaged or deformed and simply tightened crookedly. It will turn out even worse than it was, because the stabilizer is equally contraindicated for both excessive play and a too tightened position when it cannot work as a torsion bar. Most likely, the point is an insufficient amount of lubrication - without it, the friction between the clamp iron and the bushing rubber will not allow the part to be installed correctly and without extra effort. Add it a little and everything will go much easier.

And now we repeat exactly the same operation on the other side, not forgetting to put it back in place fuel pipes and tighten the protection bolt if they still had to be removed. That's all.

What is the result?

In principle, there are no cardinal differences on other cars with MacPherson front suspension. And there is hardly anything difficult in this work if it were not for the use of a hoist and some other tools to deal with soured bolts.

Work in the service would cost 440 rubles per side. Inexpensive, but you can try to do it yourself. There is a charm here: if something went wrong, you can carefully drive to the service station without a stabilizer at all, and everything will be collected there as expected. Well, maybe they will laugh, but this is already in your absence.

It will be much worse to continue to ride with broken or worn bushings. Even if nothing knocks below (and at first nothing will knock for sure), controllability will decrease, sometimes even to disgrace. It’s not worth bringing to this point, each turn will be much more dangerous than it actually is.

For help in preparing the material, we thank the network of specialized stores and car services "Logan-Shop" (St. Petersburg, Shkolnaya st., 73/2, tel: 928-32-20)

Have you ever had a stabilizer bar?

If the bushings in the suspension are out of order transverse stabilizer, it can hardly be called critical breakdown requiring immediate repair. Because of this breakdown, the car will not lose control and the wheels will not fall off. But in order to drive a car with broken bushings, the driver will need very strong nerves. Because the knock and rattle that appeared from behind worn bushings, will be heard in any cockpit. In this article, we will tell the reader how to do it yourself with the replacement of the anti-roll bar bushings in cars both domestic and foreign production.

Functions of the stabilizer bar bushings

Made from thick rubber

Most modern machines the anti-roll bar is a mandatory element of the suspension. When the car enters a corner, its roll increases and it can tip over due to centrifugal force. When the car exits the corner, its body begins to sway, which makes it difficult to align the trajectory of movement. As a result, anti-roll bars appeared in the car suspensions to prevent unwanted swaying. The stabilizer is attached to the suspension with steel brackets, under which there are elastic bushings made of polyurethane (or extra dense rubber). Their purpose is to dampen suspension vibration and guide the stabilizer bar when entering a corner and when driving over rough roads.

signs of wear

• A strong creak that occurs when driving on a rough road. When entering a turn at high speed, this creak turns into a rattle.
• Stabilizer bar lift. It manifests itself in the form of a thud, which is heard when the front wheels of the car simultaneously fall into a deep pothole in the road.

Causes of failure

• Physical deterioration. Most cars (especially domestic ones) are initially equipped with rubber transverse bushings, the service life of which is short. After 2-3 years, they completely exhaust their resource, become covered with cracks and fall apart (it is for this reason that prudent car owners change rubber bushings to polyurethane ones immediately after purchase).
• Chemical impact. Since the bushings are located close to the wheels, they are regularly exposed to de-icing chemicals, the effect of which will significantly reduce the life of the rubber bushings.
• mechanical impact. If the car is constantly used on roads whose quality leaves much to be desired, even reliable polyurethane bushings will not last long (because in such conditions they are subjected to increased friction and are constantly subjected to strong shocks).

Which bushings to choose

When choosing new stabilizer bushings, preference should be given to products made of polyurethane. Often, motorists opt for bushings from SASIC, 555 and TRW.

Tools and Consumables

1. Set of new stabilizer bar bushings.
2. Open-end wrench set.
3. Screwdriver flat (medium size).
4. A set of socket heads with a collar.
5. 2 jacks.
6. Anti-recoil shoes.

Replacement sequence for VAZ 2107

1. The car is installed on the inspection hole, after which the crankcase protection (if installed) is removed using open-end wrenches. Then wheel chocks are placed under the rear wheels of the car, and the front wheels are jacked up.
2. Now, with a 12-mm open-end wrench, the nuts on the brackets are unscrewed, where they are attached to the lower suspension arm. This is done on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Under the nuts are engraving washers. They are removed by hand.
   Nuts are shown by arrows
3. Now you can remove the brackets. After removing them, you can remove the bushings. To extract them, the stabilizer bar is bent with a crowbar. The rod is held with a crowbar, the sleeve is removed manually. The bushing on the other side is removed in the same way.
   Scrap is used for this.
4. In addition to the two extreme bushings, the VAZ 2107 has a pair of central stabilizer bushings. If you need to replace them, you will have to completely remove the stabilizer bar, which is mounted on two brackets. The nuts on the brackets are unscrewed with an open-end wrench by 14.
5. After removing the rod, the bracket is clamped in a vise, and the rod is carefully removed from the sleeve, then it is removed by itself. central sleeve.
   The sleeve is inside the bracket, clamped in a vise
6. Worn bushings are replaced with new ones, after which the stabilizer bar and crankcase protection are installed in their original places.

Video on work

Important Points

• When unscrewing the nuts on the brackets, care should be taken: the studs on which the brackets are attached become brittle over time and are easily broken with an open-end wrench.
• It should be remembered: the brackets holding the extreme bushings are different, although it is far from always possible to see this with the naked eye. The distance between the pin holes in the left and right brackets differs by 3 mm. Therefore, before removing, it makes sense to mark the staples with a marker or chalk so as not to confuse them during reassembly.
• Removing the stabilizer bar from the bracket can be difficult, especially if it is heavily rusted. To facilitate the task, the rod and bracket should be liberally lubricated with WD-40. If liquid is not available, liquid dishwashing detergent or plain soapy water will do.

Bushing replacement sequence for Mitsubishi Pajero 4

1. Using a 12 open-end wrench, 4 bolts are unscrewed, which hold the crankcase protection of the car.
   To do this, unscrew 4 bolts
2. Access to the bolts on the mounting brackets of the anti-roll bar.
   Bushings are underneath.
3. These brackets are easily unscrewed with a socket head with a ratchet.
   Removable with socket head
4. After the brackets are removed, the stabilizer bar moves down, and access to the bushings opens. Installed in place of worn out

If we compare the device of anti-roll bars on domestic cars and foreign cars, you can see that on our cars it is a little more difficult to get to the stabilizer bushings. If on Mitsubishi Pajero 4 to replace the bushings, it is enough to unscrew a few bolts, and this can be done in any garage, but in the case of the "seven" you will need a crowbar and an inspection hole. However, with due patience, it is quite possible to fix the breakdown on your own.