During the operation of the car, many owners face a number of problems. One of them is a decrease in engine power. At the same time, it is not always clear what is the reason for this phenomenon, what measures to take, whether it is worth going to the service station. Let's talk about the main reasons why the engine does not pull and how you can fix the problem on your own.

The main reasons for reducing engine power

1. Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor

There are situations when the DKPV does not send a control command to supply the air-fuel mixture in a timely manner. As a result, the power of the power unit drops before our eyes. The main reason for the failure is the shift of the gear star in relation to the pulley and the bundle of the damper. In such a situation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the damper and replace it.

2. Increase (decrease) the gap between the electrodes of the candles

During operation, due to the powerful temperature effect, the distance between the electrodes of the spark plug may decrease or increase. To exclude or confirm your suspicion, you need to check the size of the gaps with a round feeler gauge. If the distance is less or more than the allowable, you need to adjust by bending the side of the electrode or replace the spark plug. As for the optimal distance of the spark gap, it can be different (depending on the type of candle) - 0.7-1.0 mm.

3. The appearance of soot on candles is another clear sign of a problem.

If the engine does not pull well, it is necessary to unscrew all the spark plugs one by one and inspect them. If obvious carbon deposits appear on the electrodes, the device must be cleaned with a brush with a metal bristle. It is important not only to clean the candles or replace them, but also to find out the cause of this phenomenon.

4. Failure of spark plugs

Reduced engine power may be caused by product failure. In this case, it is necessary to check the performance of the candle on a special stand. If the suspicions are confirmed, then the only way out is to replace the set or one candle.

5. There is no gas in the tank

You can diagnose the problem by looking at the fuel gauge. If it is faulty or there is a suspicion of its “inadequacy”, then the presence of fuel can be determined by removing the fuel pump.

6. Fuel filter contamination, water freezing in the system, fuel wire pinching, fuel pump failure

All these malfunctions can be safely attributed to one category, because they all have the same symptoms - the starter cranks the engine, but the smell of fuel from exhaust pipe no. If the car is carbureted, then the reason must be sought in float chamber. Most likely it is not getting fuel. In the case of an injector, the presence of fuel in the rail is easier to check by pressing a special spool (installed at the end of the rail).

To correct the problem, it is necessary to warm up the engine thoroughly and bleed the power system with a tire pump. After that, all the pipes of the system, hoses and the fuel pump itself are changed.

7. The fuel pump creates too little pressure

Such a problem can only be determined by special measurements (made directly at the outlet of the fuel pump). After that, the quality of the fuel pump filter is checked.

The solution is to clean the fuel pump filter, replace it (if repair is not possible) or install a new fuel pump.

8. Poor contact quality in the circuit

Poor contact quality in the circuit through which it is powered fuel pump or failure of its relay. The first thing to do to check is to make sure the quality of the "ground" on the car and take resistance measurements with a multimeter. If the resistance level is really high, then the only way out is to strip the contact groups, crimp the terminals well or install a relay (if the old one is faulty).

9. Broken nozzles or malfunction in the supply system

If there is a suspicion of failure of these elements, it is necessary to check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter for the fact of an open circuit or an interturn circuit. If the cause of the problem is a malfunction of the computer, then such a check can be carried out exclusively at the service station.

There are several ways to eliminate the decrease in engine power for this reason (depending on the depth of the problem) - install a new computer, clean all nozzles, ensure high-quality contact in the electrical circuit, and so on.

10. Breakdown of the DPKV

Breakage of DPKV - crankshaft position sensor or damage to its circuit. In this situation, the check engine light will come on. check engine". The first thing to do is to inspect the integrity of the DCPV itself, make sure that the gap between the ring gear and the sensor is normal (it should be about one millimeter). The normal resistance of the sensor coil is about 600-700 ohms.

To solve the problem, it is enough to restore normal contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor (if the old one turned out to be faulty).

11. Out of order DTOZH

DTOZH - a sensor that controls the temperature of the coolant is out of order. Symptoms of a malfunction are as follows - the engine malfunction lamp lights up. If there is a break, then the electric fan of the system begins to rotate continuously. In addition, it is necessary to check the health of the sensor itself.

If the engine power has dropped for this reason, then it is necessary to restore the quality of the contact in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

12. Out of order TPS

Out of order TPS - a sensor that controls the correct position throttle valve(or its chains). As in previous cases, the “Check engine” lamp lights up here. If there is an open in the TPS circuit, then the engine speed usually does not drop below one and a half thousand revolutions.

The solution to the problem is to clean the throttle assembly and restore the quality of the contact connection in the entire electrical circuit. If the sensor is defective and cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.

13. Out of order DMRV

The DMRV, a sensor responsible for controlling mass fuel consumption, failed. Here, the optimal action is to check the integrity of the DMRV or replace it with a serviceable device. If the failure of the DMRV is confirmed, then it is necessary to make an attempt to clean it, and if it is impossible to repair, simply replace it.

14. Breakage of the knock sensor

Detonation sensor failure. With such a malfunction, the engine malfunction lamp necessarily lights up on the instrument panel. In addition, when DD detonation fails, there is no detonation in any of the operating modes of the power unit and the engine power also drops. With such a problem the best way- restore integrity contact group in the electrical circuit and install a new sensor.

15. Failure of the oxygen sensor

Failure of the oxygen sensor or a violation of its circuit. Such a malfunction is characterized by the ignition of the "Check engine" lamp. In this case, the first thing to do is to check the heating coil for integrity. Firstly, the resistance is measured, and secondly, the voltage level at the output. Measurement can be done even without breaking the circuit - just pierce the insulation with needles.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is worth repairing the oxygen sensor, restoring the quality of the wiring and cleaning all the holes through which air is sucked in. In extreme cases, it is necessary to replace the oxygen sensor itself.

16. Depressurization of the exhaust system

Diagnosing such a problem is simple - just inspect the main elements while the engine is running at medium speeds. To solve the problem, it is necessary to replace the exhaust manifold gasket and stretch all the seals.

17. Computer failure

Failure electronic block control (ECU). Despite its reliability, the ECU can also break down (sometimes its software just gets lost). To make sure that the computer is working (failure of the computer), you need to check the voltage on the unit itself (the normal parameter is about 12 Volts) or replace it with a known-good unit. If the control unit is defective, it may need to be replaced. In some cases, it is enough to change only the wiring.

18. Violation of the adjustment of clearances in the valve drive

You can make sure that the parameters match only by checking with special probes. If the gaps do not correspond to the norm (written in the manual), then adjustments must be made.

19. Deformation or breakage of the springs on the valves

In this case, you will have to remove the cylinder head and measure the length of the springs under load and in a free state. If broken or deformed springs were found, then they need to be changed.

20. Worn camshaft lobes

A visual inspection will suffice here (after removing necessary elements) and substitutions camshaft if necessary.

21. Disordered valve timing

In such cases, it is necessary to check the fact that the labels on the distribution and crankshafts. If there is an “imbalance”, then it is enough to set the correct position using special marks.

22. Low cylinder compression

Low compression in all or some cylinders. Causes include probable valve damage or wear, breakage or sticking. piston rings. To verify the suspicions or refute them, it is enough to make the necessary measurements. If the suspicion is confirmed, then it is necessary to repair the power unit - change the rings, pistons or repair the cylinders.

Output

The above list is only a part of the malfunctions, due to which the engine power drops. But in most cases, this is enough to diagnose the problem, fix it, and return much-needed traction to your “iron horse”.

In this article, we will look at a few common diesel engine faults, and possible methods eliminate them on their own. And we will also figure out why these malfunctions can appear in a diesel engine.

The diesel engine does not pull (does not develop full power), but it does not smoke.

The most common causes of such a malfunction are a decrease in the patency of the coarse fuel filter in the car tank and a decrease in the patency of the filter fine cleaning fuel. Many conscientious drivers change fuel filter after a certain mileage of the car, as prescribed by the car manufacturer. But after all, we forget that any manufacturer of an imported foreign car writes the terms for replacing the filter, counting on the fact that the car will be operated on normal European fuel.

It cannot even occur to them that there may be dirt or water in the fuel, which is a common occurrence in our domestic fuel. Therefore, in order not to harm the engine and not lose power, the fuel filter should be changed twice as often, especially if you visit remote gas stations somewhere in the outback. And best of all, upgrade the fuel system of a diesel foreign car, as described in.

In order to be sure of such a malfunction, you need to change the regular opaque fuel line going from the fuel filter to the injection pump to a transparent hose (as in the photo on the left), which will be very useful in the further operation of the car (after replacing the hose, and the fuel filter, too, you will need bleed the fuel system, that is, remove air, read how to do this).

After replacing the hose (fuel line) with a transparent one, and pumping the fuel system, we start the engine, and if the fuel filter is clogged, then when the engine is running, circulating air bubbles will be visible in the transparent hose, and with an increase in diesel speed, they will be visible even more clearly. Moreover, from the presence of these air bubbles in fuel system, the diesel engine can work intermittently (“troit”), naturally, engine power is lost from this.

We get rid of such a malfunction by replacing the fine filter, but before that it will be useful to unscrew at the bottom of the fuel tank drain plug and drain the sludge. It will also be useful to clean the coarse fuel filter (mesh in the form of a barrel) located in the gas tank from dirt.

To do this, many cars have a special hatch (the one in which there is a fitting for connecting the fuel hose), by unscrewing which you can get to the coarse fuel filter. After all these operations, it will be necessary to bleed the fuel system in order to remove air from it (how to do this, follow the link above and read).

At idle and medium speeds, the diesel engine works normally, and at high speeds it works intermittently (“troit”).

Such a nuisance may be due to a malfunction of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine (timing), as well as due to air being sucked into the fuel system, or due to the above-described loss of fuel filter patency (the filter is clogged with dirt).

First, let's make sure whether the fine fuel filter is to blame or not and whether it is worth changing it. To do this, disconnect the fuel hose from the filter fitting (I hope you have already replaced it with a transparent one), which goes to the injection pump. Dip the end of the hose that you removed from the filter fitting into a bottle of clean diesel fuel and now start the engine.

If now the diesel engine works in all modes (at any speed) normally without interruptions, then the malfunction was precisely due to dirty filter fine cleaning and should be replaced. If the malfunction does not disappear, then try to clean the coarse filter located in fuel tank(I wrote about this above). Don't forget to bleed the fuel system afterwards.

If after that the malfunction does not disappear, and the fine filter is new, and you cleaned the coarse filter in the tank, then pay attention (when the engine is running) if there are air bubbles in the transparent fuel hose. If yes, then it is possible that the fuel system is leaking somewhere and air is getting into it.

Check all connections of metal and rubber fuel lines and fittings of the tank, pump, return hose (including under the bottom of the car), it may be necessary to tighten the clamp somewhere, or replace the rubber hose that has cracked from time to time. Typically, leaks are clearly visible in the characteristic wet spots from the fuel. After the leak has been eliminated, the fuel system should be bled (bleeded).

If you have replaced and cleaned all the filters, and no air bubbles are observed in the hose during engine operation (and everything is tight), but still the diesel engine at maximum speed (or above average) works intermittently (“troit”), then it remains to check (which by the way, it can “float away” due to a malfunction valve mechanism), and it is also worth checking and adjusting thermal gaps in the valves (read how to do this).

But sometimes this does not help, and either valves or restoration of their geometry is required. But before you remove the head for repair, you should determine why the compression is lost - due to leaks in the valve mechanism or due to piston wear.

How to do this, I already wrote and those who wish can read about it. If you are unable to eliminate all of the above malfunctions, then you should contact the services of specialists to repair the engine head and restore the timing to normal operation.

On more modern diesels, in the head of which hydraulic valve compensators are installed, interruptions in the operation of the engine may be due to a malfunction of the hydraulic compensators, for example, if one of them is stuck due to dirty oil. In general, such diesel engines are loved more quality oil and more frequent replacement (and filter too), just like turbo diesels.

To eliminate the jamming of the hydraulic compensator, in any case, you will have to disassemble the head, followed by washing or replacing parts (if they have scuffs).

When the diesel engine is running, it knocks, and if you sequentially disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors, then the knock disappears.

Such a malfunction may occur due to the failure of some kind of nozzle (for example, the nozzle needle may jam in the open position). You can determine which cylinder injector is out of order by disconnecting the high-pressure fuel lines from the injectors one by one.

Well, the last reason why a diesel engine can smoke and not develop full power is the unsatisfactory operation of the nozzles (for example, wear and loss of tightness of the needle and its seat - I wrote about the diagnosis and repair of nozzles on my own in), but before unscrewing them from the engine and take it to a specialist for inspection (pressure testing), first perform the above steps, starting with the replacement air filter.

By the way, I advise you to clarify the mileage of your car, I mean real mileage(how to find out the real mileage,), as on modern diesel engines with a system common rail, modern electro-hydraulic, or piezoelectric nozzles (I wrote about them) walk on our domestic fuel, as a rule, no more than 150 - 200 thousand km. And if your odometer does not have low mileage, as described just above, and the car is modern, that is, with a common rail fuel system, then injector diagnostics are definitely needed.

That's not all possible faults a fairly run-through diesel engine, and there are other ways to eliminate them, but I will try to talk about them in one of the following articles (we find the article).

I hope this article will help those drivers who like to fix most diesel engine problems, and the whole car with their own hands, good luck to everyone.

Sometimes when driving a car, the driver notices strange things - the car picks up speed more slowly, consumes more gasoline, the engine is heard better. This is most likely due to power loss. There can be many reasons why the engine does not develop proper power.

How to understand that the engine power has dropped

This is usually felt immediately by the following symptoms:

• The car accelerates more slowly;
• Fuel consumption increases;
• You have to “turn” the motor more in order to somehow accelerate. Engine performance is worse.

Checking indicators on the stand + video

To accurately verify the drop in power, the car must be sent to the power stand. Usually such devices can be found in car services, tuning shops or dealer centers. You can see how this happens in the video.

Reasons for declining engine performance

Change the gas station for a while and watch the agility of the car. Possibly a bad fuel problem.

The appearance of a problem on gasoline (carburetor or injector)

In the case of petrol carbureted engine reasons may be as follows:

• early ignition. Fuel mixture ignites prematurely exhaust gases resonates with the direction of piston movement, resulting in reduced power.
• Late ignition. The mixture does not have time to burn for full cycle engine operation, which means that it does not develop the necessary power.
• Problems with the vacuum ignition timing controller. Found only on carbureted engines!
• Problems with the centrifugal ignition timing controller. They also lead to early ignition.
• Loose fit of valves in their saddles.
• Worn piston rings.
• Throttle stuck.
• A large amount of carbon deposits in the cylinders.
• Intake manifold clogging.
• Using fuel with the wrong octane rating.
• Lean working mixture caused by air leakage, fuel line contamination, air duct clogging;
• Clogged filters.
• Clogging of jets or carburetor fittings, incomplete opening of its dampers.
• Water entering the carburetor.
• Incorrect adjustment of the composition of the fuel mixture.

In the case of an injection engine:

• Clogged fuel and air filters.
• Problems with the electric fuel pump.
• Incorrect operation of the electronic control unit (ECU) of the engine.
• Problems with fuel injectors.
• Incorrect operation of sensors.
• Faulty lambda probe.
• Injector failure.
• Carbon deposits in the cylinders.
• Worn seals, gaskets, rings.

Why the diesel engine does not develop the desired performance

• Poor quality fuel.
• Fuel filter clogged.
• Clogged air filter.
• Failure of the turbocharger (extremely important these days - atmospheric diesel engines are almost never found. Check the quality of the turbines).
• Malfunction of fuel injectors.
• Clogged particulate filter.
• Clogged fuel pickup in the gas tank.

Detailed video about the causes of power loss

Poor throttle response due to clogged catalytic converter

As you know, power can be lost due to the contamination of the catalyst located in the muffler. How to check it?

• Measure the pressure in the exhaust system. If the value obtained is greater than 0.5 atmospheres, the catalyst needs to be replaced or removed.
• Having warmed up the engine well, measure the temperature of the exhaust pipe before and after the catalyst. If the temperature before and after is the same, the catalyst is clogged. Similarly, if the temperature after is lower.
• Ringing inside the catalytic converter.

In case of problems with the catalyst, do not remove it without subsequent replacement. extraneous noise and the overall noise of the engine will increase, the resonance of the exhaust system will be disturbed, and this practically does not affect the engine power. It is better to install a new catalytic converter than to drive without it.

Ways to increase engine power

• Refuel with higher octane rating than recommended.
• Replace the standard air filter with a zero resistance filter.
• Replace standard exhaust system to straight line.
• Engine chip tuning.
• Replacement engine oil for higher quality and less viscous.

Loss of engine power is an annoying problem for any motorist. The car does not drive as it should, and sometimes it is very annoying, and sometimes it is not safe at all, so finding the root causes and eliminating them is an important and necessary task. Good luck on the roads!

Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in /var/www/www-root/data/www/website/wp-content/plugins/custom-blocks/custom-blocks.php on line 5457

Why is the engine not picking up the speed that is necessary for correct operation? This is a question many drivers ask themselves. During the operation of engines different type, they often encounter a situation where, when you press the gas pedal, the engine does not react in any way and does not gain the necessary speed.

Often such problems occur with cars equipped with LPG, although when switching to gasoline, the problem disappears. Malfunctions of a different plan can entail both fairly serious repairs and simple preventive measures. Let us consider in more detail why the engine is gaining momentum poorly, both on gasoline and diesel fuel.

In the first case, it is very important to try to analyze under what conditions this happened and how it manifests itself. Be sure to try to identify all the accompanying symptoms.

The failure of a fully functional internal combustion engine to gain the required speed after service work or repair is usually the result of incorrect assembly, connection errors, etc. such situations allow you to instantly determine the malfunction by inspecting or returning the car to the repair station.

Possible reasons why the engine does not develop speed are conditionally divided into categories. First, let's deal with simpler, one might say minor malfunctions. The set of necessary indicators when driving is very dependent on the usefulness of combustion, the composition of the mixture, the efficiency of supplying it in the right volume and timely ignition.

One of common causes, according to which the revolutions cannot be gained to the desired value - disrupted operation of the ignition, fuel and air supply systems:

1. Significant pollution air filters reduces the possibility of air penetrating through the filters. The engine in such a situation starts to work unevenly, loses power, as a result of which it will not be able to gain momentum. One of the common reasons is the appearance of branches, dirt, bags, etc. in the air filter;
2. You need to pay attention to the suction for the intake of excess air. The problem may arise unexpectedly, or as a result of gradual progress. Working on a strong suction, the motor is very difficult to gain momentum. The proportions of fuel and air in fuel-air mixture deviates significantly from the normal. The resulting mixture is very lean for gasoline and rich in air. An engine with such a mixture starts without problems, but will not run smoothly and will not be able to pick up speed at the slightest movement;
3. The unit is not receiving enough fuel. Usually, the culprit is a filter, which can easily become clogged with foreign objects. Usually, there are no problems with starting the internal combustion engine, since the fuel level is normal, but the car twitches, does not respond in time to manipulations with the gas pedal. Turnovers may not reach the level of a certain tachometer mark;
4. A dirty filter mesh on the fuel pump, since over time the formation of plaque on it from the tank is a natural process. The lack of the required pressure in the system leads to a drop in pump performance. Normal operation of the motor is impossible in different modes: the engine will pick up, it needs speed and immediately stall due to clogging of the mesh;
5. Disrupted operation of wires and candles makes ignition problematic combustible mixture. The process of ignition of the fuel charge is untimely, the power drops, respectively, the speed will not increase. The cause of these manifestations is usually pollution and oiling of candles, damage to its body, gaps during installation on the electrodes;
6. Trouble of the engine during breaks high voltage wires, misfiring, worsened dynamics of the set of internal combustion engines revolutions.

Serious malfunctions that require a certain level of skill, knowledge and special equipment or a visit to a workshop. It will no longer be about consumables, namely the details:

• Perhaps the most important reason is the disturbed phases of the timing. The balanced operation of the gas distribution mechanism is disrupted due to the untimely opening of the valves. Such troubles usually appear after unsuccessful attempts to replace the timing belt, especially when jumping teeth. Also, the causes include valves that are incorrectly adjusted, malfunctions in the valve timing, and even a breakdown of the timing drive;
• Disrupted operation of the incendiary module and coils. Misfiring becomes commonplace, and the engine simply cannot reach the speed necessary for normal operation;
• Worth paying Special attention to power the injectors on the injector. The control signal does not act on the nozzle, or it occurs intermittently due to incorrect wiring;
• Violations in the operation of the fuel pump, and if diesel engine, then the injection pump. The problem develops gradually, it all starts due to a gradual weakening of the ability to pump fuel, and as a result - a lack of pressure. As a result, when the engine is heavily loaded, it will start to stall more and more often;
• The problem of injector contamination occurs when units operate with extremely poor quality fuel. Be sure to clean the nozzles at least 30 thousand;
• Incorrect operation of sensors electrical system can even affect the composition of the combustible mixture.

What is the result?

Given all the problems with the fact that the internal combustion engine is slowly gaining momentum, it would be advisable to conduct a diagnostic check for errors as soon as possible. As a matter of urgency, such a procedure must be carried out in the case when the “check” on the tidy lights up.

Rarely, there are cases when the engine does not develop speed due to the failure of the computer. Such troubles can arise due to engine washing and negligent diagnostic service firmware.

The result of such an intervention is an inadequate perception of the ECU speed: low are taken for high, and vice versa. The maximum power of the internal combustion engine can be obtained provided that all maintenance work provided by the manufacturer and other equally important service activities.

If the VAZ 2110 engine is not gaining momentum, there may be several reasons.

1. Fuel system malfunction.
2. Faulty ignition.
3. Air supply is difficult.
4. Exhaust problems.

This series of problems is typical for any car, so if injection engine VAZ 2109 is not gaining momentum, the reasons may be the same.

Problems in the fuel system are inherent gasoline engines, and are the most common. In addition, this trouble is also inherent in diesel engines.

Where to begin?

At the first problems with the acceleration of the car, it is worth starting to check the car with the fuel system. most frequent breakdown the fuel system of the car is a gasoline pump, and there is no difference whether it is mechanical or electric. Both the first and the second with the same probability can fail at the most inopportune moment.

Difficulties with the pump may appear after a while. The vehicle may slowly decelerate speed characteristics, and when this process reaches a noticeable state, you will understand why the engine is not picking up speed.

The point is the fuel pump, which, although not yet out of order, but not so actively supplies fuel to the engine. This inevitably leads to fuel starvation of the car, and, as a result, a loss of power.

Procedure.

1. Ignition check should start with timing marks. It is on the correctness of their installation that depends on how timely the fuel injection and spark supply will be.
2. If the marks are in order, you should pay attention to the numerous sensors, which are plenty for the injection engine. You can check the position sensors of the crankshaft, camshaft and others on your own or entrust the car to a specialist.
3. If everything is in order here, you should pay attention when the timing belt or timing chain was changed. The reason why your VAZ is not gaining momentum may be incorrect installation of the belt. Here it is enough to make a mistake by one tooth, and you can safely forget about the normal acceleration of the car.

The engine may not pick up speed 406 due to the fault of the injector, while the problem will be divided into two:

• the car does not start at all;
• the car does not work properly (this includes problems with speed, both while driving and on idling, as well as all kinds of car jerks).

In the first case, the “nine” is often helped by warming up the battery or even recharging it. As you might guess, this situation occurs in winter during frosts. The reason lies in the drop in battery capacity, which may simply not be enough to start the engine.

The second way to revive a frozen car is to supply hot air through a hair dryer. This "folk" method also helps a lot.

And finally, the third reason why a car may not start is faulty spark plugs.

Methods for diagnosing a problem

For the most accurate diagnosis, you will need to use a diagnostic tester, pressure gauge fuel rail, vacuum gauge and spark gap.

1. The first thing to check is if there is a motor control ECU. To do this, simply turn on the ignition and listen to whether the fuel pump is noisy.
2. Then we look at the pressure fuel line. Data at the level of 2.5 - 3.0 kg / cubic centimeter are considered the norm.
3. If these parameters are normal, you can check the BITSTOP parameter on the scan tools while cranking the engine. The BITSTOP parameter must be set to "none". This indicates that the ECU receives a command to start sparking on the spark plugs and is fully operational.
4. By connecting a high-voltage arrester, you can check if there is a spark at all, and maybe the cause is poor-quality spark plugs.

Also learn about.

Air supply

Air supply can also cause weak vehicle traction. If more air enters than it should, then the composition of the fuel mixture will be disturbed. Those. it will have more air and less fuel, which will lead to a drop in thrust.

by the most simple solution the air filter will be replaced, which is recommended to be done every six months.

If the engine speed increases, but the speed does not pick up, the reasons may be:

• low pressure in the fuel system (as mentioned earlier);
• problems in the operation of the DMRV;
• clogged air filter;
• coked nozzle.

It is more difficult to understand the operation of the DMRV, since each car must have its own parameters, and you will still need the appropriate equipment. Even a deviation from the norm by 3 kg / h can cause significant “changes” in the operation of the engine, and not for the better.


Using the example of a 406 engine, we can say that the norm is 13 - 15 kg / h. At the same time, reducing the flow to 11 kg / h will lead to such a problem that the engine does not pick up speed or does it slowly, while increasing this figure to 19 kg / h will significantly increase fuel consumption, which is also unpleasant.

Coking of nozzles, most often, is the fault of low-quality fuel, since problems are extremely rare in the “electrical” part. To check, the injectors are often switched off one by one, while monitoring the drop in engine power. The norm is approximately 110 revolutions.

However, such diagnostics is time-consuming and will not give a 100% result, so all owners injection systems, including for 3sfe it is not recommended to clean the injectors every year. Who knows, maybe your 3sfe motor is not gaining momentum for this very reason?

Various jerks and failures during engine operation are another side of the failure of the TPS or DMRV. In this case, it is also difficult to diagnose TPS problems, and in addition to the equipment, you will need to clearly know at what crankshaft speeds failures occur, such as jerks or power dips.

Car exhaust problems

Before you start considering this issue, it is worth checking the car's catalyst. If it is still there, you should make sure that it is not clogged. Even with the impressive characteristics of the car, when trying to “squeeze” an acceptable speed out of it at high engine speeds, they simply will not succeed. Here lies the answer to the question, why put larger mufflers on cars? It is to increase power, since the absence of a silencer can add up to 15% of power to a car.

This disadvantage is also relevant for diesel engines, so if the diesel engine is not gaining high revs, perhaps excess oil got into the exhaust manifold for a long time, which also burned out, forming soot on the walls, and this is already serious. The smaller the hole in the exhaust manifold, the less the engine is capable of.

The motor in a car is the most important detail, which is why choosing a new car is based on the reliability of the heart of the car. Consider a small rating of the most reliable engines in different price ranges, allowing not only domestic, but also foreign production.

1. Small class, or B+. A fairly large segment of the market, where our Lada Granta is represented, but it did not get to the top of the reliability rating, it lost to the K7M engine from Renault. The second and third places, perhaps, should be given to the VAZ-21116 and Renault K4M engines.
2. Middle class, or C class. Here, our old friend K4M from Renault is in the lead. The second place is deservedly occupied by engines from Korean manufacturers such as Hyundai, KIA. In third place, it would be appropriate to place the engine from Renault and Nissan - M4R.
3. In the business class, we will single out the first two places: for the “junior” business class and the “senior”. In the first case, this is the 2AR-FE engine from Toyota, and in the second case, the engine from Lexus 2GR-FE.

Now find out about.