Some batteries (usually above average quality) have a green indicator on the top (on the front panel), on the right or on the left (some call a light bulb). This "peephole" gives you an idea of ​​the charge or discharge of your battery. In total, it has three main provisions, and it does not always glow green. Today I will tell you in detail what it is, and why it was created at all. And also we will analyze why it may not burn at all ...

To be honest, this indicator was created only to signal you about your battery, because, as a rule, their design is not collapsible, and therefore you cannot climb inside and see what they have with the electrolyte - just look at its level or measure its density. Therefore, such a "bulb" gives you a complete picture, according to which you can make a decision. However, the indicator may not always be green, as a rule, three modes are used here.

Indicator modes

This combination is very common: - green, white, black. However, some manufacturers use a combination: - green, white, red. But in essence it is one and the same. Let's go over these indications.

Green mode - a fully charged battery, can be used in normal normal mode. This means that no charging is required.

White indicator - he tells us about the low electrolyte level. In unattended, this also happens, most likely, the battery was often recharged, and there was a release of gaseous electrolyte through special valve. You need to disassemble and add distilled water.

Black or red indicator - this tells us about the discharge of our battery, and the indicator is critical, mandatory recharging is required! It is important! Leaving the battery uncharged for a long time can damage it.

As you can see, these colors give certain signals to the owner, look in occasionally and then your battery will last a long time. I also want to note that this indicator does not have any light bulbs in its structure at all, the next paragraph will turn your idea around ...

About a light bulb - not a light bulb

I wanted to write this information from above, but this way it turns out more intrigue. In the structure of this sensor, no light bulbs are used at all - nor ordinary incandescent (low-voltage) - as many people think, neither LED, nor any other.

Here the structure is different. . In fact, this is an ordinary hydrometer, only built into the battery case. It automatically measures the density of the electrolyte, and at different values ​​it pops up - one or another ball, which is projected through a magnifying glass tube and a magnifying glass into a special window. It should be noted that the balls float up, as it were, along special grooves that are made in the shape of a pyramid - this is important! REMEMBER!

If the battery is charged, then a green ball pops up, and you see it in the window. If it is discharged, then either red floats in, or none at all, so you see blackness. But if there is no electrolyte, then the end of the pyramid seems to be exposed - you see its end in the window, many confuse it with white.

The use of electricians in the battery would not be justified - even if the light bulb were low-voltage, it would still suck out some of the energy from the battery (and in winter, oh, how not necessary). YES, and if it burns out, the owner will start to get nervous.

Now a detailed video, maybe someone did not understand about the pyramid ...

Why does it not light up even after being fully charged?

Very frequently asked question, many still think that this is a light bulb and after charging it should light up! As we have already discussed, this is not at all the case. And it is quite possible that when fully charged, the green indicator will not come out! WHY?

YES, it's simple:

• The green ball can just "stick" on these "little skids". It is worth shaking the battery, and it will take its place. It happens very often.
• Dirt from the plates got in, over time the plates begin to crumble, the electrolyte becomes cloudy, it has particles of lead, so it prevents the indicator from transmitting information normally.
• The battery is really out of order, this cannot be ruled out either, even with long charges it does not take density.

Can this indicator be removed?

On most batteries, yes, this window is unscrewed similar to a cork - but it will have to be twisted with force, it can even be broken, my friends twisted it with thin-tipped pliers, and small “holes” were made in the window for hooking. In general - a "collective farm", but theoretically you can remove it! It is also worth remembering that if you unscrewed it, then the airless space inside was violated, it is quite possible that a gaseous composition will come out - “explosive gas” or “HHO”. Then you will need to add distilled water. So always think, but you need to disassemble the battery!

A good driver should, first of all, regularly, and preferably constantly before starting the engine, and even during the trip, pay attention to the indicators on the instrument panel, since the safety of both the driver and other road users depends on the operation of the car.

Secondly, a problem noticed in time often saves a decent amount of money aimed at eliminating errors and repairing an iron friend.

Even modern cars domestic production equipped with various sensors that, with small changes in the operation of the machine, display error data on the dashboard. If the battery on the instrument panel is on and does not go out after the car is started, then the motorist needs to establish the cause as soon as possible in order to avoid big troubles. The figure below shows very well where this sensor is located. This designation is number 16.

Indicators on dashboard VAZ 2114

Description of other indicators can be found at .

The indicator can indicate problems in the system in different ways:

1. The sensor is constantly on.
2. Lights up intermittently while driving.
3. The battery charging light is dim. In this case, the light can sometimes be seen only at night.

In fact, there are several reasons why the battery on the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 is on fire:

• the fuse has blown;
• faulty diode bridge;
• gaps in the generator relay;
• tear in the alternator belt;
• short circuit in wires;
• the generator itself;
• the fan belt may slip;
• not enough electrolyte in the battery.

As you can see, there are a lot of reasons and it’s quite difficult to figure it out right away, especially for an inexperienced driver. Most of the problems are related to the generator, but first you need to exclude other problems.

Specialists of any technical automobile center can very quickly reveal the “secret” why the battery charging light does not go out, but these are additional and sometimes considerable expenses.

Everyone knows that when the ignition is turned on on VAZ cars, two control lamps light up: oil pressure in the lubrication system, as well as battery charge. Each of them after launch power unit should fade. It happens that one of them remains on fire. The trouble is, if this is a warning lamp for oil pressure in the system, this is fraught with engine repair, but on the other hand, everything is not so scary. There are only two reasons why the battery charge indicator light is on.

Device

The first thing to do is figure out how it all works. The VAZ generator is known to have mixed excitation. This means that its rotor is magnetized, but at the same time, a current is needed on the stator for excitation. After the generator is excited, after reaching the operating speed, an induction current appears on the rotor winding, which is removed by carbon brushes through slip rings, they act as a collector on electric motors.
After the current goes to the brushes, it enters the diode bridge. The fact is that the battery must be charged with direct current, it is for rectification that the diode bridge is used.
From the bridge, electricity branches to the battery terminal and to the relay. It has the exact name, so to speak, "scientific", RS-702, the battery warning lamp relay. The principle of the relay is known to everyone: voltage is applied to the coil, inside which a steel core is installed. He attracts the plate to himself, which opens the contacts of another circuit.
It contains the control lamp itself. While they are closed, it burns, then it goes out.

Causes

Let's go directly to the reasons, so to speak, to the diagnosis. First of all, it is necessary to determine whether the control lamp is constantly on or just flashing. There is also a grandfather method, which is strictly prohibited on injection engines. While the engine is running, it is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, after which the engine should continue to work. If it stalls, then it's probably the generator. First of all, you need to disassemble it, check the brush assembly, then the diode bridge. The latter tends to fail the most. It is not repaired, only replaced. But before replacing, it is necessary to find the cause of burnout or short circuit.
Among other things, it is necessary to check the stator and rotor windings for an open or short circuit. If so, the damaged parts must be replaced.

If the engine continues to run when the terminal is removed, then the reason lies not at all in the generator, but the lamp is on due to the fact that the circuit does not open, which means that the relay is faulty, or the required voltage is not supplied to it. If the reason is the first, then the replacement will solve everything. If the second, then most likely the problem lies in the oxidation of the contact coming out of the generator, it is enough just to clean it.
But, if the engine is injection, then it is necessary to disconnect the positive wire at the terminal coming from the generator, and then connect a voltmeter to it. The alternator should put out about 14.2 volts. If there is voltage, but it is less, then you need to remove the generator, disassemble it and clean all connections with sandpaper.
Among other things, in addition to the battery warning lamp relay, the regulator relay may be faulty. In principle, this is the first reason that is worth checking. The relay-regulator is also not repaired in any way, it can only be replaced.

Conclusion

I must say, the repair of the generator is often included in considerable costs, because its components are quite expensive. Before disassembling something, you need to sit and think about what preceded this malfunction, because, as a rule, it does not occur on its own. Perhaps the car drove into a puddle at high speed, after which water got into the generator, it simply closed, in which case the car will start again, but will only work on the battery.

In addition, if the lamp does not light up, but only blinks, or lights up at low speeds, then you just need to tighten the drive belt, since the minimum speed at which electric current begins to be generated is about 1500, and ratio from the crankshaft pulley to the alternator belt is 1:2.

There are times when the light bulb showing the charge car battery goes out and does not light up or other problems appear, indicating any problems with the battery. In this case, every responsible car owner is trying to find out the cause of such problems.

Common battery problems

If we consider the situation with an ordinary motorist who gets behind the wheel of his vehicle and will become when it does not produce the necessary charge or voltage. The reasons for this behavior of the battery can be counted enough. We will give you some of the most common operational problems that many drivers had to face:

Car battery charging light not on

This light should come on every time the ignition key is turned. If it stops working, then this indicates the need for it. urgent replacement. Why urgent? because in the event that it occurs real problem, then it will be absolutely impossible to make a replacement. The light is on, but the battery drains quickly

This state of affairs suggests several possibilities. Firstly, the battery simply cannot hold or accept a charge. Secondly, the charge that comes from the generator is simply not enough. Often these problems arise due to the fact that the relay-regulator fails. Checking this element is quite simple: you need to connect a voltmeter to it, start the engine of the car and increase the speed to three thousand per minute for gasoline, and up to two for diesel. And then you can already measure the magnitude of the voltage. If the voltage is in the range of 12-14, then the relay functions perfectly, but if it is below these values, then you should contact the service station: the relay-regulator is likely to break or the generator will not function correctly.

The battery charge light does not go out after starting the engine.

This is the most serious signal of the above. It indicates that the charging circuit is damaged. Or if the indicator on the dashboard is always on, then this may also mean the presence of a bad contact, or the generator brushes are seriously worn out, or due to lack of mass. In this case, it is necessary to check the connecting nodes of the generator and battery, as well as assess the condition of these units. In cases where the driver does not find any visible causes of malfunctions, you should immediately go to a car repair shop. If you do not operate with the relevant knowledge, it is better not to meddle there yourself.

As can be seen from the above, the battery charging light on the dashboard can wink at the driver a lot. Watching how it burns or does not burn at all, how long and with what frequency this happens, the car owner should immediately start saving the car battery by contacting an automotive technical assistance center for qualified help.

But you should not make hasty conclusions and rush headlong to the service station, only seeing that the light bulb behaves differently than before. Maybe the battery of your "metal friend" simply does not get enough charge and therefore quickly sits down. And this phenomenon often manifests itself after frequent, but not long trips. For example, every day you go to work, spending fifteen minutes on the road, so the battery does not receive the full amount of the required charge. But every time the engine is started, the charge that he himself needs is regularly taken from him. This problem it is solved simply and you will cope with it completely on your own, because you just need to charge the battery enough.

Technical malfunctions of the battery and ways to solve them

In this section, we will tell you about the main malfunctions that car starter batteries are exposed to. Here we go.

self-discharge

There are also cases of accelerated self-discharge, when the figure already exceeds 3% per day. The main reason for the acceleration of self-discharge may be the contamination of the electrolyte or the use of low-quality components in its manufacture. Also, foreign objects can get under the battery case, which soon cause the plates to close; battery surfaces are contaminated with electrolyte; the separators have been destroyed or the active mass of the plates has crumbled - all this induces the battery to self-discharge more actively. And as a result of this, the battery quickly loses its capacity and becomes completely unusable.

Oxidation of pins

Oxidation of battery terminal pins and terminals occurs from the electrolyte falling on them or its evaporation. and the pins lose their ability to contact each other. They should be cleaned with fine sandpaper. And when the terminals on the pins are already fixed, they are thinly lubricated with technical petroleum jelly. This precaution prevents further oxidation.

Plate sulfation

If accumulator battery stored for a long time without recharging; her electrolyte level in banks decreases; a denser electrolyte is used; the battery is heavily discharged and continues to be used, sulfation of the battery plates may occur.

This process is characterized by the formation of a large number of large crystals of lead sulfate on the surface of the active mass. Lead blocks the electrolyte from entering the active mass of the plates due to the impossibility of its dissolution. As a result, the plates lose the volume of the working surface, noticeably decreasing, and the battery loses its capacity. A battery affected by sulfation charges as quickly as quickly and discharges. If sulfation is significant, the battery can no longer be saved, but a minor one can be overcome with several charge-discharge cycles. After charging the battery, it must be completely discharged with a current of approximately 5A, for example, by connecting a lamp from a car headlight to it. And so repeat several times.

Let's not dissemble, this does not help in 100% of cases, but the likelihood of resuscitation of the battery is still present. To prevent sulfation from overcoming your battery, follow the rules for its storage and operation, namely, keep a constant charge, avoid contamination, and do not fill in too dense electrolyte. Insulation plates

The following malfunction may occur if the separators are destroyed or the residual active mass settles to the bottom of the storage battery tanks and an immediate short circuit of the plates with different poles occurs. The occurrence of a short circuit is also a consequence of plate warping from applying excessive or prolonged charge to them, strong shaking, due to poor battery attachment, or high electrolyte density. The battery with this malfunction is returned for repair. If the design of the battery is folded in such a way that it cannot be opened and repaired, then it has to be disposed of and a new one purchased.

Damage to the battery case

If damage to the battery case is insignificant, then it can be easily repaired with the help of special adhesives. Glue is selected depending on the material of the case. Most hulls are repaired with regular epoxy. To seal the battery case, you need to disassemble it, dry it, glue it, then reassemble it, filling in the electrolyte. Now you are aware of the main malfunctions of car batteries.

Other types of battery problems

It often happens that as a result different kind deformations, the battery does not cope with its direct function. The battery starts to heat up, charge poorly, the wires begin to move away, as a result of which contact with the connections of other automotive mechanisms is lost.

1. If “bridges” begin to appear between the electrode leads, then thoroughly rinse the battery with plain water, and then moisten a rag in a soda solution and wipe the battery.

2. If you notice cracks between the fasteners and battery terminals, then in no case do not undertake to fix the problem yourself. At the very least, your actions will bring a worthless result, and even more will lead the battery to a state of complete unusability. Go immediately to a car service, where professionals will quickly eliminate this problem.

3. The battery often heats up, and sometimes even swells. This is due to insufficiently ventilated battery case space. And you can easily solve this problem yourself. Just clean the vent holes in the battery plugs. It is much more difficult to eliminate leakage of electrolyte through the ventilation holes.

What happened is the following:

3.1. Hydrolysis or evaporation of the electrolyte composition. This term means enough normal process, which can lead to unexpected battery performance problems only if the electrodes are sulphated. Hydrolysis can be "cured" by long-term charging of the battery with a current equal to five percent of its total capacity.

3.2. Evaporation of the electrolytic composition, which occurs due to the fact that the battery case and the voltage relay are poorly fixed. The solution to this problem is to adjust or replace the relay.

3.3. The evaporation of an electrolytic composition that occurs when a very large charge is received from the generator. As a result, the battery starts to get very hot. To eliminate this problem, examine the charging system and all electrical equipment using a voltmeter. Connect it to the positive terminal of the generator. Its readings should be no higher than 14.2 V.

3.4. The electrolyte has reached a high level. Excess liquid should be drained. The guideline will be the fact that a couple of centimeters of liquid should remain above the electrodes. This will be enough.

If you notice deformation manifestations or any mechanical damage on the battery, it is better to immediately contact a specialist. They will tell you and show you what to do with the battery in the future. In the best case, it can be repaired, otherwise there is always another way out - the acquisition of a new one.

For some reason, many car owners are genuinely surprised when they find out that the battery also needs “maintenance”. This is very unfortunate, because a fraction of your attention and care can save time and not lose money. Regular maintenance of a car battery is quite simple and comes down to regular checks of the level of the electrolytic filler. If its level is low, then overcharging may occur, and this is caused by a faulty alternator. If the electrolyte is deficient in only one battery cell, then expect the entire unit to fail soon. In summer and autumn period it will still last on its last legs, but the first frosts will make their "control".

When topping up the battery with electrolyte, remember one thing that when charging, the electrolyte level does not rise, so take this factor into account when topping up. And the consequences of acid getting on metal or plastic can become irreversible. We urge you to be caring car owners and always keep the battery charge under control. Periodically, preferably once a quarter, check the voltage level of the battery terminals, even if the battery works clearly and without fail, like a Swiss watch. During operation, all batteries lose a certain amount of water from the electrolyte, thereby increasing its density, and this already adversely affects the electrodes (plates), because the acid in the banks becomes more concentrated. As a result, battery life is reduced.

The rate at which water is lost from the electrolyte depends on the materials used and the functionality of the electrical equipment of the entire machine. Depending on the compilation of all the facts, the rate of water evaporation can vary tenfold. Therefore, the electrolyte concentration can decrease to a critical level in one month, and in three, or even in goals. So, using the familiar classics in the form lead batteries be prepared to check the electrolytic level at least once a month by adding distilled water to them. And also have patience with the fact that the self-discharge rate of such batteries reaches 15% per month and further progresses, reaching 60% in two years of operation. Therefore, if such batteries have been inactive for a long time, then they should be charged monthly.

During long-term parking, it is recommended to disconnect all consumers of battery power, because a current leak in the mains can drain the battery so much that it simply won’t work and start. If the battery discharges unnaturally quickly when disconnected from the mains, this indicates a high level of self-discharge for the old unit and a defect in the internal content for the new one. Try to avoid repeated deep discharges of car batteries that exceed 40% of their capacity. After such a systematic “clogging”, the battery will no longer be able to correctly charge from the generator in the future.

In cases where the car battery charging light does not light up or other problems are noted that indicate battery problems, any responsible driver tries to find out the cause of its malfunction.

Common battery problems

From the point of view of a motorist who gets behind the wheel of a vehicle, it is faulty when the battery does not turn, that is, does not produce the required voltage or charge. The reasons for this behavior of the battery can be different phenomena. Here are some common battery problems that drivers face:

As you can see, the light on the instrument panel can significantly help the driver. Keeping track of whether it is on or off, the motorist is able to literally save his battery by going to the auto repair center, where they will help him quickly and professionally.

But do not rush to give your money to station workers Maintenance when you see that the light is on or, conversely, does not light up. Perhaps the battery on your "iron horse" is quickly discharged due to a banal undercharging. This phenomenon is very often observed with frequent, but very short trips.

Let's say you go to work every day in your car, spending no more than 10-15 minutes on the trip. It is clear that in such a short time the battery is charging poorly (receives an insufficient charge), but at each start it regularly takes the charge it needs. You can solve a similar battery problem on your own by charging it normally.

Technical malfunctions of the battery and ways to solve them

Having dealt with common battery problems, let's look at the most common battery problems. In most cases, they are due to the following reasons:

• poor fixation of the battery in the engine compartment, leading to damage to the battery itself or wires suitable for it;
• weak contact at the terminals, causing the destruction and oxidation of connections;
• frequent starts of the motor and prolonged operation of the starter, which lead to the fact that the battery is very discharged;
• the use of batteries in cases where the generator is in a faulty state (overcharging is noted or the battery is completely discharged).

The gradual discharge of the battery while driving a car, which makes starting the engine a very problematic action, is usually caused by such malfunctions:

Other types of battery problems

Often, the battery ceases to perform its direct function due to various types of deformation of its body, which lead to the fact that the battery heats up, does not charge well, wires come off the battery (contact is lost) and connections with other car mechanisms. If so-called bridges form between the terminals of the electrodes, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the battery with ordinary water, and then moisten a rag in a soda solution and wipe the battery.

If cracks appear between the fastening parts and the battery terminals, do not try to repair it yourself. Believe me, the effectiveness of your actions will be minimal. Moreover, they can lead to the fact that the battery will become completely unusable. Immediately go to the service station, where this malfunction will be quickly eliminated.

Very often, the battery heats up (sometimes you can even see that it is swollen) due to the fact that there is not enough ventilation in its case. With such a problem, you will undoubtedly cope on your own. It is only necessary to clean the holes in the battery plugs designed for its ventilation. It is more difficult to deal with those problems that cause leakage of electrolyte through the above vents. This may indicate the following phenomena:

• Hydrolysis (in other words, evaporation of the electrolytic composition). Hydrolysis is understood to be a generally normal process, leading to unexpected difficulties in the operation of the battery only when it is accelerated by critical discharges, leading to the fact that the electrodes begin to sulfonate. You can cope with hydrolysis by charging the battery for a long time, and at a current strength that is five percent of the battery capacity.
• Evaporation of the electrolyte, which is formed due to poor-quality fixation of the case and the voltage relay. The relay should be replaced or adjusted.
• Evaporation of the electrolyte due to the fact that too much charging current comes from the generator (the battery heats up). It is necessary to examine the charging system, as well as everything electrical equipment using a voltmeter. Connect it to the "plus" of the generator. The device should show no more than 14.2 V.
• High electrolyte level. Waste liquid must be drained. Focus on the fact that there should be no more than a few centimeters above the plates.

If the battery is very swollen or any mechanical damage has appeared on its case, it is recommended to contact specialists who will advise you on what to do with the battery. It may be possible to repair it, providing the required contact between the battery cells and restoring the integrity of the case. Or maybe the battery needs to be replaced.

If the battery on your car has served all conceivable and unimaginable periods recommended by the manufacturer, you need to urgently change it. On such a battery, the contact at the terminals is poor, and it heats up quickly, and it requires electrolyte replacement very often. There is no point in saving on such an important element for a car as a battery. Remember that even the best batteries are allowed to operate no more than 3-4 years.

When using a rechargeable battery, do not forget that at sub-zero air temperatures, too high a discharge can lead to freezing of the electrolyte and disruption of the integrity of its case. And with the active operation of the machine in any conditions (even in ideal, if any), the battery life is significantly reduced. If possible, exclude frequent engine starts for a short period. During start-up, a large percentage of the battery charge is consumed, if you turn off the engine after a few minutes or drive a short distance, the generator will have time to recharge the battery to the optimum level.

From time to time, you should charge the battery from a special charger at low current. The battery must always be charged, otherwise sulfation will worsen.

It is unacceptable to discharge the battery, which is called "to zero". Deep discharge is detrimental to any battery, especially maintenance-free calcium. As a result, the capacity can be greatly reduced, and in winter period the battery will be discharged overnight.

It is necessary to regularly check the level of electrolyte in the banks, operation with plates not covered with electrolyte is prohibited, otherwise this will lead to their destruction.

In addition, periodically work should be carried out to prevent battery sulfation. But it is worth remembering that any battery after 4 years of operation is considered used and should be replaced.

Finally, we add that it is advisable to eliminate any identified battery malfunctions immediately. There is no need to put off repairing this equipment until the car stops in the middle of the road, or one fine morning you can not start it.