Renault Megan of the second generation is a modern car, but even it sometimes makes the owners worry. So, one day the engine may not start. Some owners are very afraid that the engine is out of order. In fact, if Renault Megan 2 does not start, then the problem is not in the engine itself, but in additional components and assemblies. Let's take a look at the main causes of startup failure and learn how to troubleshoot these problems.

Main reasons

If the car does not start in the morning, then this may be due to the following reasons. Most often there are problems with the starter or fuses. Also, often problems can lie in the battery or wiring. In the car, the position sensor is also involved in the starting process. crankshaft- if it fails, then the Renault Megane 2 will not start. Perhaps there are problems in the engine power system. The fuel pump is faulty or there is no power in its circuit.

Do not discount the banal inattention. The driver could forget that there is not enough fuel in the tank. It is worth paying attention to the fuel level sensor on the instrument panel more often. If the indicator lights up, then there is not enough fuel left in the tank - this volume can be enough for 50 kilometers. If the lamp comes on, it means that the car needs to be refueled.

Also, if Renault Megan 2 does not start, you should make sure that the “Check Engine” light is off. If the lamp does not light up, then the cause is definitely not in the engine. This will help narrow the circle. possible causes when troubleshooting. Let's look at each of them in more detail to understand how to fix it. This information can be of great help to novice car enthusiasts and those owners who do not know this car.

Battery

This is the most common of faults. Diagnosing it is simple - the engine does not start, but the starter turns on. Often the battery can be charged, the starter may even turn on. But the battery capacity may not be enough to generate a spark that should ignite fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. The battery needs to be charged or you can use a booster. If this is the reason, the engine will start.

In addition to the charge level, the terminals on the battery can be oxidized. Oxides can be thin and almost invisible to the human eye. But they are quite enough to create a very real resistance, which reduces the starting currents of the battery. The terminals on the battery must be well cleaned of oxides. This applies not only to the contacts themselves on the battery - what is connected to these contacts is also subject to stripping. Sometimes this operation allows you to solve problems with starting the engine.

Engine electrical system

If the starter turns, but the Renault Megane 2 does not start, then it is worth looking for the cause in the electrical connections. It is problems with electricity that are especially common malfunctions of this kind.

One or more wires may be damaged. It also happens that any contacts are oxidized. The ECU connector, wiring to the injectors, fuel pump wiring, and sensors are responsible for starting the engine. Check the crankshaft position sensor connector. He is directly involved in starting the engine. According to the data from this sensor, the ignition system works. Contacts can be clogged with dirt, oil, and other elements. All wires and connectors should be moved. If the reason was in the contacts, then the engine must start.

Circuit breakers

When the starter turns and the Renault Megan 2 does not start, it is worth checking the fuses. Perhaps one of them, responsible for any systems involved in the launch process, burned out. A blown fuse must be replaced.

Starter does not turn

If there is no reaction to turning the key or pressing the engine start button, then the situation is worse, but still not very terrible. But the owners of this car should be aware that in these models the starter is a headache. It is located at the bottom of the engine, at the rear. It easily gets water and dirt from the road.

If the starter does not turn, then the first thing to check is the battery and its terminals. Next, check the wires going to the starter. This is one thick one from the positive battery terminal and a thin one from the ignition block. If the wires are in order, then check the condition of the engine ground contact. This contact is installed in an unfavorable place and is often clogged. It needs to be cleaned up.

Also, if the starter does not start on Renault Megane 2, check the ignition switch. Often the reason lies in it. Contacts in contact group can burn, oxidize, burn out completely. One thin wire goes from the ignition switch to the starter - when the key is turned, +12 V appears on it. This voltage on the small contact activates the retracting and holding winding of the starter solenoid relay. If the contact is broken, then the voltage on the wire will not appear, and the starter will not be able to start the engine.

If the Renault Megane 2 does not start from the button, then perhaps the reason is hidden in the wiring from the battery to the starter. The principle of operation of the button is similar - when a short circuit occurs on a thin wire to the starter, a voltage appears that activates the windings of the solenoid relay. If the starter does not turn on, then this does not necessarily indicate its failure. Most often, the reason is the banal lack of contact.

Solenoid relay

When the key is turned in the ignition switch or when the button is pressed, the solenoid relay is activated. It advances the starter bendix, but also closes the power contacts. A power plus comes to the retractor relay from the battery terminal. The minus is taken from the engine case. Further, when the solenoid relay is activated, the battery positive contacts close with the wire that feeds the starter electric motor.

Here it is also recommended to carefully check all connection points and the wires themselves. Often the starter does not start the engine precisely because of this. Thick wires can only visually appear to be serviceable. Inside, they consist of a large number of thin veins - during operation, these veins are torn, broken. As a result, inside the wire, the contact can be provided by a smaller number of strands. And if you take into account that the starting currents for the starter are quite high, then in such a wire the current drops.

You should also check the power plus terminal. The place where the terminal connects to the wire may be oxidized. Oxides are resistance. Copper bolts are used as contacts on the solenoid relay. They are also subject to active oxidation. If the starter does not work, then it does not hurt to check them too.

If the retractor relay is working properly, then after turning the key, a characteristic click will be heard. This suggests that at least the starter brushes are working. The "minus" retractor relay takes it from the negative brushes of the starter electric motor.

How to check retractor?

If after clicking nothing else happens, then you need to check this relay. This can be done by closing the power plus and a small contact. If the relay clicked and the starter motor began to rotate, then the cause is in the ignition switch. If not started, then in contacts and retractor. There are contact plates inside the element, which over time can burn and lose contact.

You can check the starter motor as follows - close the two bolts on the solenoid relay with a screwdriver. The electric motor must spin. A good starter should not get hot. The same applies to the retractor relay.

crankshaft position sensor

If the Renault Megan 2 car does not start, and the starter turns the engine properly, then the fact is that when the ECU stops receiving data from this sensor, the start is blocked. Without information from him, it is impossible to unlock the system in any way. Most often on this car, it is not the sensor itself that fails, but the connector. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to clean the contacts in the terminal. And for sure everything will work out.

But you need to take into account certain nuances. The connector is very fragile and delicate. If there is no experience with such elements, then it is better to act as carefully as possible. And access to the element is also not easy.

Gasoline pump

Common cause when the Renault Megan 2 engine does not start, it is the gas pump. If it fails, then gasoline stops flowing to fuel rail and injectors. Usually the pump does not break, but the contact in its connector is lost. The problem here, which is typical for the whole model as a whole, is the fragility of the connector. Access to it is difficult, but you need to clean the contact. To access fuel pump you need to remove the rear seat. The pump here is electric, submersible type. And it is located directly in fuel tank. Fortunately, a special hatch is provided for access to it. By unscrewing a couple of screws, you can provide access to the element. After that, we take out the mechanism assembled with a float and a glass. And then we check the condition of the contacts and wires that go to it. Here we can visually identify all the damage. By the way, if the pump does not buzz when the ignition is turned on, then it does not receive voltage at all.

Renault Megan 2 often does not start after downtime. Even if the car has been standing for two or three days in bright sunshine, the next day it may not start. The starter will spin but the car will not start. It's all about the fuel pump. Also, the pump may not produce the required pressure, and without a certain pressure in the fuel rail, the engine also does not work (or the car moves jerkily).

throttle valve

Throttle problems in this car are not related to clogging. Often, the settings somehow disappear on it. In this case, adaptation throttle valve.

Error scanning

You can find out why Renault Megan 2 does not start using a diagnostic scanner. The car is equipped with a diagnostic system and has an error memory. Among them, there are necessarily those that affect the launch. For example, the cause may actually be in low pressure in the fuel rail, knocked down timing marks, in the camshaft or crankshaft sensor.

"Megan 2" 1.5 DCI

There may be many of the above reasons. But if the Renault Megane 2 1.5 DCI does not start, then perhaps they tried to start the car “from the pusher”. This can attach to the downed timing marks. On this engine, the tooth on the gear, from which the camshaft sensor receives an impulse, is located on the injection pump pulley. If the synchronization is broken, the car will not start.

diesel engine

If the starter works unevenly, jerkily, the engine does not show signs of life, then the timing belt should be checked. Perhaps he is torn. If the starter turns normally, smoke comes out of the pipe, but the engine does not start, then this indicates that at least there is fuel in the cylinders. So, this is definitely not a fuel injection pump. So, you need to check the filter (it can be clogged with dirt), fuel line, the quality of the fuel and the level of paraffin that is contained in it. These signs may be a signal that the injectors need to be repaired.

The situation when the starter turns, but appears White smoke and the diesel Renault Megane 2 does not start, the mixture does not ignite in the cylinders or ignites only partially. Wherein fuel system quite correct. Possibly faulty glow plugs. Could jump the injection pump belt. And the worst diagnosis low compression.

Conclusion

If then the first thing to check in this car is the wiring and sensor connectors, the fuel pump connector. These are the weaknesses of this model. Often power to the pump is lost. Also, the connection in the sensor connectors is lost. If Renault Megane 2 1.6 does not start, then in most cases the reason is in the wiring and only then in everything else. If the wiring is checked, then further diagnostics depend on whether the starter turns or not.

The car heater helps to maintain the temperature in the cabin, which is optimal not only for passengers, but also for car components. If the operation of the device is accompanied by uncharacteristic sounds - noise, rattle, as well as uneven supply of warm air, we have to talk about a possible breakdown. All this does not give the owner of the car any pleasure. The situation worsens if the motor does not make any noise at all. In this case, it will be necessary to dismantle the fan of the Renault Megan 2 (3) stove, which can be done without resorting to the services of a car service.

What is a stove fan

The car heater performs a fairly simple but important function - interior heating. In addition, the device prevents the windows from fogging up. In accordance with accepted standards, at a temperature overboard of -25 ˚С, the cabin must be at least +16 ˚С. Such indicators are necessary for comfortable operation of the car. Structurally, the heater is not a complex unit.

The heat in the cabin comes from the working power unit. Heated antifreeze, circulating through the engine cooling system, also enters the heating system. There it enters the stove radiator, which performs the function of a conventional apartment battery. The fan drives the outboard air through the radiator cells, which warms up in this way. Then it enters the cabin through the air ducts. On most Vehicle The antifreeze that passes through the heater core is immediately returned to the engine, and this circulation ensures a constantly high temperature of the radiator.

The heater fan provides the supply and distribution of hot air throughout the car

As a result, a high level of constant temperature in system. In the absence of a fan, there would be no supply of hot air to the passenger compartment. Most car heaters work on this principle.

One of the main elements that ensures the supply and distribution of heat throughout the cabin is the heater fan, which is an electric motor with an impeller on its axis. It is designed to be used in the heater system of the machine for the hot air blower.

Where is the stove fan located at the Renault Megan car

On Megane 2 (3), to repair or replace the stove fan, you will need to dismantle the element. With insufficient experience, finding a heater motor is not so easy. To get close to the electric motor, you need to go down under the torpedo to the pedal assembly. To the right of the accelerator pedal there is a shield: you need to open it. Behind it is the electric motor.

The stove fan is located under the front panel in its upper part.

Why the fan of the Renault Megane stove does not work 2 (3)

Despite the fact that foreign-made cars are equipped with modern equipment, breakdowns cannot be completely avoided. So, for some Renault 2 (3) brand cars, a fairly common problem is the failure of the stove fan. To understand what the problem is, it is first worth considering how it can manifest itself.

Symptoms of breakdowns

The following symptoms indicate that the fan has malfunctioned:

• fan operation at low speed;
• gradual failure of speeds;
• in the car interior there is a smell of electrical wiring;
• the stove starts with difficulty (after a mechanical impact on the lower part of the torpedo on the right near the gas pedal);
• complete stop of the motor.

In the latter case, the repair of the heater is inevitable. However, in order to be sure that the problem lies precisely in the stove fan, you need to know a little more about diagnosing the node in question.

Breakdown diagnostics

To determine the malfunction, you should follow a simple technique.

1. If, when you turn the heater knob, you can’t hear the running motor, then the first thing to check is the fuse. This element is located in the fuse box on the left side near the torpedo and is designed for a current of 30 A. In the event of a fuse blown, you need to find out the cause.

   In the fuse box, an element with a rating of 30 A is responsible for the operation of the heating fan circuit.

2. If the performance of the electric motor is impaired at some speed, you will need a multimeter, with which you can determine which resistor has burned out. After that, you can replace the element or completely change the resistance block. If the resistors are in good condition, then the fan control switch is most likely the culprit and needs to be replaced.

   If the fan does not work at any of the speeds, then the cause may be the failure of the corresponding resistor.

3. When it was determined that the fuse was intact, but the motor did not rotate, it was the fan that needed to be checked. To do this, the node must be connected directly to the battery. You can get to the motor only after lifting the glove box above the front panel. Then the power connector is disconnected, a plus from the battery is supplied to the black-blue wire, the minus is connected to another contact. With this connection method, a working fan will operate at maximum speed. If there are no signs of operation, the engine will have to be replaced.

   When connecting the electric motor of the heater directly to the battery and its operation at maximum speed, one can judge the health of the unit

In addition to malfunctions of the motor itself, other problems are possible with the interior heater, in which the efficiency of the system is reduced. There may be several reasons for this, for example, a low level of antifreeze in the cooling system, a breakdown of the dampers, which leads to a disruption in the normal flow of air.

Video: replacing the heater fan resistor "Renault Megan" 2 (3)

Repair of the Renault Megan stove fan

If there are problems with the heater fan, its operation is accompanied by incomprehensible sounds, then the part will need to be dismantled, and then cleaned or replaced. Since the node is located very inconveniently on Renault Megan 2 (3), in order to get to it, you must adhere to step by step instructions. Only in this case you will not have to dismantle unnecessary elements, and it will also be possible to avoid unforeseen situations.

How to remove the Renault Megane stove fan 2 (3)

Since the heater motor is in a dark place, you will need a flashlight to work. We carry out repairs in the following sequence:

1. Carefully remove the cover. Forces should not be excessive in order to avoid breakage of the cover. The main latch is located in the center of the surface, you just need to pull it back.

   The heater fan is located at the top of the front panel inside the structure: to get to the unit, you need to open the protective cover

2. Remove the stop button. To do this, gently turn it to the left and take it out.

   One of the stages of dismantling the electric motor of the stove is the removal of the brake light button

3. The next step is to remove the connector from the accelerator pedal. To do this, we apply some effort from the flat side using a screwdriver. Then we remove the brake pedal, for which we disconnect the lock washer, lower the latch, and remove the axle itself.

   Remove the connector from the gas pedal, and then dismantle the brake pedal

4. We find four nuts that hold the pedal assembly, unscrew them with a key to “13” and remove the mechanism itself.

   To remove the pedal assembly, you need to unscrew the four nuts on "13"

5. If you want to see the heater motor, you need to look deep: the node is located at the top. To get close to it, you will need to remove another connector with latches on the ends.

   You can release the fan by pressing the latch tab by rotating the device counterclockwise

6. At this stage, special care is needed. We dismantle the connector with two thick wires, prying the latch from below. Movements should be directed from the center of the element. To remove the connector, you need to remove it to the left relative to the axis.

   To remove the connector with two thick wires, you need to pry the latch and remove the part to the left

7. The dismantling of the motor will be prevented by the brake rod. To remove the electric motor, it is necessary to carefully stretch the assembly between the heating hoses and the brake rod. This can be done, but only at a certain position of the fan.

   To remove the fan, gently pull the knot between the brake rod and the heating system hoses.

When installing the electric motor in place, the actions opposite to dismantling are performed. Don't be in a hurry to buy a new part. Quite often, the assembly can be disassembled, find out the cause of the problem and fix it (clean it, install new brushes). If the fan is being replaced, a control unit must also be purchased for it. This is due to the fact that quite often the resistor with the terminals fails. Due to the high cost of control units, it is recommended that you first find out that it really needs to be replaced, and only then purchase the necessary parts.

Video: how to replace the heater motor with a Renault Megan 2 (3)

Replacing or repairing a heater fan on a Renault Megane 2 (3) requires not only accuracy in work, but also some skill, which is associated with an inconvenient location of the unit. In addition, excessive force should be avoided when dismantling plastic elements in order to prevent their breakage. Motor problems are not always associated with the part itself, so you should not rush into buying a new device: first diagnose a breakdown.

Despite the fact that Renault Megan is enough reliable car, it has some weaknesses and typical sores. There are some problems with the transmission. Manual gearboxes - like “six-speeds” for two-liter versions and for “restyled” 1.9-liter turbodiesels, that “five-speeds” with other gasoline and diesel 1.4-1.9-liter engines of all types - are reliable in themselves, and can rarely fail.

When the next hundred thousand kilometers are on the odometer, then without fail check the condition of the gaskets and seals, since they have the property of “leaking” by this milestone. Next, keep the oil level under control, otherwise the differential bearings will suffer. It happens that jerks often begin after some 11-15 tons of kilometers at the moment when the clutch discs close. The jerking of the car is especially noticeable when the unit is heated during hot weather or when driving in traffic jams - and it is not completely cured even if you replace the "basket" assembly for 250 euros.

The eternal problem - automatic transmission AL4

Adaptive automatic transmission DP0 at a price of 3500 euros, under the name AL4, also bothers the owners of some models of Citroen and Peugeot. Although this unit, which debuted in 1999, has been improved throughout its assembly line life, this did not help him - he remained a problem with the assembly of French cars. The "automatic" in a cold state does not tolerate work and is very sensitive to the oil level, which can be checked in the absence of a dipstick only on the lift. Further on the list, at risk are oil seals and a torque converter, a bulkhead will cost 650-1050 euros. However, most often - sometimes already after 60-75 tons, a maximum of 80 tons (due to strong shocks during switching), you have to change the modulating valves or the entire valve body for 210-480 euros.

Renault Megan 2 suspension weaknesses

About Megan's pendant. Almost all weaknesses in this node are already known. For example, front strut bearings for 95-105 euros, before the company strengthened their design in 2007, and their replacement under warranty due to tapping during unevenness often happened without having traveled 15-20 tons. Kilometers. The reason for such an early failure of the front strut support bearings is their lack of protection from dirt.

The front silent blocks of levers could theoretically serve for 125-160 thousand km if they didn’t fail twice as fast, coupled with levers of 100 euros each with non-removable ball bearings, which also wear out. In principle, you can buy non-original hinges separately, but how strong the lever will be with a ball joint fixed with bolts is a big question.

According to the reviews of Megan 2 car owners, the durability of the bushings and struts of the anti-roll bars is simply amazing, and they do not give a reason to remember yourself even when there are 115-135 tons of kilometers on the odometer! The same service life, for example, have front shock absorbers, which cost 90 euros. but rear shock absorbers not so durable - it's not that they are bad tact, no, there are no problems with that. Just to ensure excellent handling - they are tilted at a large angle. And in this regard, they work with increased loads, and cost 50 euros each. When, because of this feature, they begin to show signs of fatigue, this is expressed in the following way - often they give it out not with a leak, but with knocks before 95-100 thousand km. The rear ones do not differ in their special vitality, but there is at least one plus - they are located in plain sight, so it will not be difficult to control their condition. Silent blocks of the rear beam, which cost 70 euros each, will require attention only after 100-120 thousand kilometers. If they creak, it means they are torn.

Renault Megane II suspension problems

Now a few words about the steering. When you hear a sound similar to rattling in the steering column, you should not immediately rush to the service, as this is the norm on almost every second car: it happened that the steering shaft in new cars could reach the travel limiter. "Rail" at a price of 550-600 euros by itself usually requires total intervention no earlier than 70 thousand kilometers with the replacement of a broken bushing. The steering tips most likely “go” the same amount, however, the thrusts for forty euros will have time to be updated a couple of times until then, and this is just the super-rare case when it makes sense to put a more “non-original”, which is more durable. The electric power steering costs 1,700 euros, is non-repairable and must be replaced in the event of a malfunction of any complexity.

Typical sores Renault Megan 2002 - 2008 onwards

"Halogens" of the dipped beam do not live long, but change them "Jesuitically", that is, by touch - this is done through the hatches, which are in the area of ​​the front wheel arches.

When your car's windshield starts, and a lot of dirt appears under the hood, it means that the sound insulation of the motor shield swells and the seal sags. To clean the drain pipes, you will have to lift the casing under the windshield and dismantle the wiper wires.

The front fenders are plastic. They are not afraid of light blows, but the bumper latches on them break off quite easily.

According to the reviews of the owners of Renault Megan 2 in winter, the gas tank flap, also plastic, often freezes, and attempts to open it will most likely end in a breakdown of the latch.

With a low-lying plastic trunk bottom, be careful, as it is easy to split. On pre-styling cars, that is, before the release of 2006 rear brakes Renault did not equip with mudguards, in this regard, this leads to “emergency” wear of the inner pads.

There are no structural problems with hatchback, station wagon and coupe-cabriolet bodies. But here sedans "lit up" with an exotic problem, which is expressed in severe frosts - it happens that the roof swells! This "epidemic" became relevant in the super-severe winter of 2006, and all because of the thermal and sound insulation tightly glued to the roof panel - it shrank from the cold and pulled the "roof" metal along with it, so the factory did not take into account our temperature differences and provided proper clearance. Since 2007, they began to make mats from other materials, so traces of roof repairs on an older car in 2006 are not at all a sign of their accident rate in the hands of the previous owner.

When you make a purchase of Megan 2, we advise you to pay attention to post-styling cars after the release of 2006. The French call them cars of the second phase, since almost all "childhood diseases" were found and cured, so now the reliability of these cars causes much less complaints.

Prices for Renault Megane 2 and closest competitors (analogues)

1.4-liter versions of Megan with a capacity of 97-101 forces 2008-2010 onwards. are estimated in the region of 280-450 thousand rubles. Versions with 1.6-liter engines with a capacity of 111-115 hp. already at 320-480 thousand rubles, for the same price fit, for example, a Chevrolet Lacetti or, but Japanese peers Toyota Corolla or Mazda3 are more expensive. And finally, the most interesting offer is the two-liter Megans. They will cost only 10-25 thousand rubles more. It is more rational to take the “mechanics”, however, you will have to get used to the jerky nature of the clutch.

Renault Megane 2 began to win the hearts of many motorists with its design since 2002. It was produced in sedan, station wagon, hatchback versions. And although 2006 acquired a slightly different appearance, on General characteristics it had no effect. And minor flaws and malfunctions of Renault Megan 2 remained without attention of the automaker. The owners had especially many complaints about the electronics of the Frenchman. Although there are lucky ones who do not know Megan's breakdowns and illnesses. In this case, let's just talk about weaknesses oh and frequently occurring car malfunctions Renault Megane 2, so that the owners of this beauty know in advance what to pay attention to in the first place and what to protect it from.

Engine

• The phase regulator goes less than expected(often scares with its crash, besides, the car refuses to gain momentum). And his price is not small - from 120 dollars. Those who have a 1.4 liter engine do not have a problem (there is no phase regulator). On engines 1.6 and 2.0 liters. The problem may begin to bother after 30 thousand kilometers, although it often occurs at 100 thousand.
• Small service life of the crankshaft pulley with a rubber damper (will be 60 - 80 thousand mileage).
• At 30 thousand mileage may be needed throttle cleaning, and along with this procedure, it is necessary to change its rubber seal (it becomes dub and, as a result, air leaks appear).
• Not happy service life of ignition coils which is like a crankshaft pulley is 60-80 thousand km.
• After 80,000 km will surely create car starting problems,- starter. But often small defects are easily eliminated (replacing the retractor fuse, cleaning contacts and wires).
• Owners of the first Megans of the second generation weak rear lower engine mount. In most cases, the lifetime will be only about 20-30 thousand kilometers. Jerks and tremors at the start will speak of her demise. On cars produced after 2008, the problem was fixed by the manufacturer.

Unfortunately, there is little information about the reliability diesel unit Renault Megan 2. The main problems that arise with it are burnout of the washer under the nozzles or cracks in the intercooler housing, but such defects threaten no earlier than 120 thousand mileage.

The most reliable is a 98 horsepower gasoline engine with a volume of 1.4 liters. He had the fewest complaints.

Electronics

• Glitch in the ECU with engine speed in the cold season. The revs immediately rise, and then drop sharply and hang at around 400 rpm.
• If a Valeo generator is installed on the car, then after 60 thousand km, it very often fails (the problem is either in the regulator relay or brushes).
• At 60 thousand kilometers in the steering column breaks off. Since you can only buy an assembly with a steering switch for 200 dollars, then the best option It can only be soldering the cable. A sign that the train will soon be covered and the pillow lamp will light up - there will be a rustling sound when the steering wheel is rotated.
• On older cars of 2006, in wet weather, miracles can often happen with electronics, in particular, the image on the on-board display may disappear.
• Closer to 60-80 thousand km. may refuse power windows, will often be front (they are used the most). Due to the destruction of the jumper in the gearbox housing, or the drum with the cable wears out.
• The wiper motor may burn out (due to its location). When the drainage hole of the water drain is clogged, in front of the windshield, it floods the motor.

Transmission

• After 60 thousand km may appear whistling release bearing on the secondary shaft.
• Also, in most owners, on a run of 60,000 km popping the box kicks through worn clutch disc, its lifetime is short. And for longer than 50 thousand is also not enough. The clutch disc from Scenic showed itself much better.
• On the automatic boxes gear after 40 thousand valves in the hydraulic distributor become clogged(Mainly depends on driving style).
• A field of 60 thousand km is a high probability of an early failure of the automatic transmission cushion.

Chassis

• One of the frequent breakdowns manifesting itself after 50 thousand km is an .
• Closer to 60 thousand steering tips will have to be changed.
• To 80,000 km. would need .

Salon

• After forty thousand mileage in the cabin settle "crickets". Most often, the tanning sealant creaks between the dashboard and the glass, although this is not the only place. The source of squeaks will be handles, door hinges.
• When the thermal insulation under the hood sags, then hot air from the engine enters the cabin through the ventilation system. Warm air will come out of the stove ducts even in the heat.

Exhaust system

• Strongly corroded exhaust pipe.
• Small catalyst resource. In most cases, it should serve at least 150 thousand, and on Megan 2 it is barely 100 thousand capable. This is another weak point of Renault Megane.

headlights

• Enough frequent malfunction the Megan 2 is burning of the negative terminal of the power supply of the taillights. As a result, "color music" appears when you press the brake pedal or turn on the turns. Only replacing the connector will help (cleaning the contacts will temporarily solve the problem).

As you can see, the list of Renault Megane 2 malfunctions is decent, but not all of them are serious, so if you know about them, you can prepare in advance. Plus, of course, everything is not so sad as it may seem at first glance, looking at all these upcoming breakdowns, because the likelihood that this particular set is waiting for one owner is negligible, although 5-6 weak points will come out anyway.

A whole bunch was in store for the gearboxes for the Renault Megane II. Gasoline engines up to 1.4 liters relied on a simple five-speed JH1 box, but sometimes they put a stronger JH3 with them, and they always put it with 1.6. It is easy to distinguish the boxes: the younger series has a tricky design of the left CV joint - its tripod is inside the box.

JR5 - over a new version five-speed boxes, designed for a moment of up to 200 Nm, and it is installed with 82-horsepower diesel engines 1.5 and gasoline engine 2.0. Unlike JH1 and JH3, it has cable drive switching mechanism.

Exotics, which we mainly meet only with powerful versions of the 1.5Tdi diesel engine, are six-speed PK4 / PK6 and reinforced PF6 for gasoline turbo engines and the most powerful 1.9 and 2.0 diesel engines.

Well, there is only one automatic machine here, on all versions there is a four-stage "all-French" DP0 in several versions - from DP0-046 to DP0-054.

French manual transmissions are far from ideal, but in most cases there are no serious problems with them until runs of 200-300 thousand kilometers. But there are nuances.

JH1 boxes for 1.4 do not tolerate racing - both 2-4 gear synchronizers and differential can die. It is even harder for JR5 boxes if turbodiesel. Here the severity of the consequences varies from howling bearings to again folding the differential.

Another problem of JH1 boxes is in the design of the tripod glass and the boot of the left drive. This glass does not have the usual shaft fixing system, and the profile of the contact surface is such that with runs over 200 thousand, the shaft begins to vibrate, make noise and, at the slightest opportunity, can “go out for a walk”. But more often, ball bearings simply fall out of the bearings of the "star" of the tripod, which are sent to "swim" through the insides of the box. Usually this ends sadly for the differential and gears.

The problem is complicated by the fact that the “CV joint boot” here is actually a gearbox oil seal, just hypertrophied. It breaks when there are problems with the shaft, and all the oil from the box ends up on the road.

Pictured: Renault Megane 3-door "2006–09

JH3 is devoid of this dubious design, it has other CV joints with an intermediate shaft to ensure equal length, and there are noticeably fewer problems right away. Let it flow no worse than the junior box of the series, and the oil level must be monitored just as carefully, but the oil here will leave relatively slowly through conventional seals or a sensor reversing, and little by little through the breather. The tripods, with their open bearings, are outside the box body, which can be considered a plus.

JR5, as already mentioned, is rather weak for engines with a torque of 200 Nm, but on cars after restyling it was also installed with 1.6 engines, with which it is almost eternal in the presence of fresh oil. Well, with 2.0 or 1.5 after a couple of hundred thousand mileage, you can expect increased noise from those who like to drive or ride on top speed. But most often the box is ruined, corny missing the oil.

All six-steps have a much larger maximum transmitted torque. Even the younger PK4 has a limit of 360 Nm, and considering that for the most part they are installed with 1.5 dCi motors, which do not give out more than 240 Nm in stock, and it is almost impossible to tune them at a moment of more than 270 Nm, mechanical problems happen mainly due to the lost oil level. The differential is made with a good margin. However, diesels 1.9 and 2.0 fully realize all the possibilities of PK4, and they rely on PK6 / FP6, in which the limit is higher than those 300-360 Nm that they develop.

Dual mass flywheel on diesel engines performed by Renault- oddly enough, the thing is reliable, it can withstand more than 200 thousand mileage, but the cost of the clutch kit is rather big, more than 60 thousand rubles, and by improperly working with the clutch, you can finish it and the flywheel for much less mileage.

In younger gearboxes, the shift mechanism drive is by rods, with all the backlash relying on older cars. On six-speed gearboxes and JR5, the drive, as already mentioned, is cable-operated, noticeably more reliable, but sensitive to wear of the gearshift lever bearing. Also, the cables do not like long downtime of the machine, they can jam. You should not be afraid of hydraulic pressing, it works perfectly and goes for a long time.

Pictured: Renault Megane "2006–10

automatic boxes

AKP DP0 is fanned with just some kind of demonic glory. Although, in fact, the idea was not bad. The older AD-4 box, which was a licensed, but modified and "improved" version of the Volkswagen masterpiece 01M, was redesigned and once again "improved" for minimal cost and maximum manufacturability, and at the same time equipped with more advanced control electronics.

The result is good mechanical part at the very least, she coped with a moment of up to 200 Nm, but even with a moment of 130-160 Nm on the motor shaft, there were too many problems with it. A weak cooling system, a heat exchanger clogged with deposits, intense contamination of the oil in the box, weak solenoids and a valve body that is generally sensitive to pollution created many problems for owners during runs over a hundred thousand kilometers, especially in Moscow traffic jams.

The creators of the box clearly knew about the weaknesses of the valve body and provided for a rather serious filter in the design, and not just a steel mesh. But they forgot to oblige the owners to change the oil often, and the internal filter simply clogs over time, creating oil starvation in the box. And it begins to be felt after 60 thousand kilometers of heavy traffic. The active use of the blocking of the gas turbine engine leads to its operation to the adhesive layer at runs of less than 150 thousand kilometers in urban traffic.

Overheating, which is practically programmed by the gearbox design, and oil starvation quickly disable the bushings, and often also cause the valve body plate to bend. The Teflon O-rings of the back cover also fall apart almost immediately under such conditions. As a result, after the first overheating, the box is no longer a tenant.

Attempting further operation after an oil change / radiator installation in haste only increases the cost of subsequent repairs. However, despite all this, frequent replacement oil, normal thermal conditions and the absence of racing ambitions from the owner of the car, you can find a completely lively automatic transmission with a mileage of under 300 thousand.

The box tolerates peak loads quite normally, and small improvements in the form of an external radiator and the installation of an external automatic transmission filter, coupled with an oil change at least once every 30 thousand kilometers, transfer this automatic transmission into the category of quite “long-playing” even with 2.0 engines.

Unfortunately, good hosts are as rare as ideal machines. However, the box can be overhauled once, since it is relatively inexpensive, and it is very easy to repair. The main thing - in addition to repairing the mechanical part, do not forget about the valve body: its plate can be purchased for 16 thousand.

Petrol engines

All engines on Megane of the second generation are well known in Russia. The 1.4 liter K4J is a version of the popular K4M, which was installed on Logan and Sandero. The two-liter F4R was installed on the Duster, as was the 1.5-liter diesel 1.5 K9K. There will be no problems with spare parts and service.

Of course, there are fewer specialists in the turbocharged F4Rt, but this is, in general, the same engine from the point of view of a mechanic, and diesel engines 1.9 and 2.0 were widely used on Nissan, Renault, Volvo and a bunch of other cars, but just on Megane they are completely irrelevant. Finding a car with this engine is as difficult as with a turbocharged gasoline, so we will not dwell on them in detail.

Motors of the K4 series, in general, have shown themselves for a long time as reliable and inexpensive units to maintain. Especially the 1.6 liter K4M. The smaller K4J engine in the 98 hp version. less fortunate: it wears out the phase control system more actively, and it is more prone to vibrations, traction failures and tripling. Otherwise, the design of the motors is practically the same, with the exception of the dimensions of the piston group, of course.

The most successful engine options are without a phase shifter, it is not the best design here. K4J 82 hp just without him, he is not threatened with knocks in the morning, as well as the 105 hp K4M engine, which is very rare.

In the photo: Under the hood of Renault Megane Grandtour "2006–09

But all engines with a phase shifter, unfortunately, every hundred thousand will require additional costs. The current "fazik" is not only oil loss, but also oil getting on the timing belt, which in such a situation will not live long. By the way, the service belt also needs to be monitored in both directions, it is easily wound around the pulley, after which the timing belt slips. However, replacing the phase shifter will not ruin - it costs 6-8 thousand rubles, besides, there are recovery kits on sale.

Like other budget engines, the K4 has problems with oil leaks through the seals, seal quality, noise and vibration, as well as intake leaks.

Timing here requires routine replacement at least once every 60 thousand kilometers. It’s not worth tightening, both the belt itself and the rollers wear out - they are usually of average quality here. At the same time, you need to change the pump, it is unlikely to survive two timing changes.

Ignition coils are not particularly durable, after 50-60 thousand mileage they can present surprises. The damper pulley of not the best design requires monitoring and replacement every second timing shift, otherwise surprises are possible, up to smoke in the engine compartment and timing failure.

Pictured: Renault Megane 3-door "2003–06

Timing Kit 2.0 F4R

price per original

4 978 rubles

Layout in engine compartment dense, for work with attachments often requires removal of the front panel. But this is in general trifles. In general, this is an excellent motor with a resource of at least 300 thousand kilometers with normal maintenance.

The two-liter F4R is also a simple engine and even more reliable than the "small" counterparts. The problems are exactly the same: not a very long timing resource, leaks, a phase regulator with runs of more than 80 thousand, a dirty intake, a damper pulley.

Dirty choke and bad ignition coil seals are added - often pierces the tip on the body. At the same time, the motor is less sensitive to fuel quality, runs even quieter and is not prone to vibrations. The resource is expectedly decent, for 300.

Diesel engines

Diesel K9K - in general, the engine is also not bad. Only to the number Supplies here you need to include the crankshaft liners. With runs of more than 120 thousand and the use of SAE30 viscosity oil, scuffing is a common thing, especially after chip tuning.

In the photo: Renault Megane "2006–09

The rule is simple: I bought a car, changed the timing - change the liners too. It's much cheaper than looking for it later. new motor instead of the old one with a hole in the block. And it is best to use SAE40 or even SAE50 oils in the summer, change every 10 thousand maximum and regularly measure the oil pressure.

The EGR valve on running cars sours tightly, after which the intake is also clogged. Sometimes the EGR pipe burns through.

The particulate filter is not a tenant when operating in traffic jams, and the regular burning procedure is very harmful to the engine, and it cannot be started without a scanner, especially since the liquid for this costs a lot of money. In case of serious contamination, the filter is more often removed than burned through. Fortunately, there are Euro 3 versions without a filter.

In the photo: wagon Renault Megane "2006–09

From diesel cars it is worth choosing post-styling, with fuel equipment from Bosch, which is both more reliable and easier to find specialists in it. It is no coincidence that Renault refused Delphi supplier.

Turbine on versions over 100 hp quite gentle: during long warm-ups, for example, the wastegate wedges, and over-blowing is fraught with torn blades ..

Fuel and air filters should be changed very often, optimally - once every 20 thousand, it's not that expensive. Under normal maintenance, the piston group can withstand more than 300 thousand escape, and average consumption will please even Plyushkin. On the highway, you can achieve an indicator of 3.2 liters, if you do not exceed the speed of 90 km / h, and up to 5 liters in the city.

In the photo: convertible Renault Megane CC "2006–10

But still, if you want to forget about the motor, it's better to take something else. This engine requires quality service, does not tolerate forgetfulness and inaccuracy, especially at the age at which all second-generation Megans on the market are.

Radiator

price per original

4 170 rubles

Finally, I want to say about the problems that are typical for all motors. For example, cooling system leaks. The main radiator corrodes in the lower part and leaks closer to 200 thousand mileage. Factors contributing to this - mileage on the highway, lack of protective mesh in the bumper and old antifreeze.

The radiator fans are not particularly tenacious, after 150 thousand runs it is highly recommended to monitor the rotation, and if necessary, lubricate, clean or replace. In severe cases, the wiring to the fans may burn.

Engine mounts are weak, especially the lower "guitar" - with diesels and younger gasoline engines, they have to be changed often in order not to endure vibrations.

What is the result?

Very interesting car got the French. Comfortable, cute and fairly easy to maintain. As always, there are several nuances that require attention: not very successful electrics, suspension features, phase control for most engines, EGR and liners on diesel 1.5. Yes, and corrosion still occurs - as I said, they didn’t completely defeat it, they just made it invisible. But all the shortcomings in human rumor multiply many times over, they remember and, and much more, often imaginary.

On the picture: Renault hatchback Megane" 2003–06

In general, it can be admitted that rumors about the incredible unreliability of the Megans are greatly exaggerated. Especially if you take the version with 1.6 or 2.0 petrol in combination with a manual transmission.

Owner Review

Philip Ivanov

Finding a diesel Megan in an "unkilled" state is almost impossible, but I found it was 5 years ago. At that time, most diesel engines were with a range of 500-600 thousand kilometers. When I bought the car, I immediately changed connecting rod bearings to avoid the “fist of friendship”.

The car is excellent in terms of comfort. Native suspension I changed at about 240,000 km. Replaced levers, silent blocks, ball joints And steering rack assembled. With all this, I still have native shock absorbers, and they are alive.

Pictured: Renault Megane Grandtour "2003–06

The cabin has a lot of drawers and a giant refrigerated glove box. True, there are quite a lot of crickets. You can cure them by parsing and sizing, but I'm too lazy.

In the photo: Torpedo Renault Megane Grandtour "2006–09

The metal on my car does not rot at all. For example, 6 years ago I drove off a high curb and bent the hitch, which made me bend a little rear bumper. I didn't notice the problem right away. The cracker began to scratch on the bumper, and the paint broke off, but for 6 years the rust did not appear.

From breakdowns ... The EGR pipe burned out, but it turned out to be unrealistic to unscrew it - everything got stuck. I had to disassemble the muffler, remove the catalyst and the turbine in order to remove all this and change the tube.

A separate story is the replacement of native xenon bulbs with the removal of the “muzzle” and the headlights themselves. I did it twice, the second time I did it in 15 minutes. Changing fuses is also a lot of fun: you have to remove the battery and turn off the brains.

Expert opinion

Renault Megane second generation - great option for those who are limited in budget, but at the same time no longer feel a sense of beauty to domestic auto industry. It is the reasonable price that is the main advantage of this machine. For a pre-styling copy, you will be asked about 170 thousand rubles, and the “rest” is not far from it - about 200 thousand. At the same time, you will get a real european car. Here, for a moment, cruise control was installed even on fairly simple configurations with “mechanics”. And the cars themselves are started from the button (and this is taking into account the years of production).

With a sufficiently large number of offers on the secondary market, the bulk of the cars are concentrated in the regions. Therefore, when choosing, be sure to expand the geography of the search. Traditionally, sedans prevail, and with a devastating score. And among the three available engines, the 1.6-liter 115 hp is the most common.

Pictured: Renault Megane 5-door "2003–06

Do not be surprised that most of the cars on the "machine" have already been replaced or have been repeatedly repaired box. The famous VAG heritage under various names took root in the French for a long time, massively failed in the mid-90s and successfully continues to take the soul out of its owners in the mid-2010s. Another feature of these cars is the plastic front fenders, which are not only unrepairable, but over time they also “disperse”, forming gaps, which makes it seem as if the car has been in an accident.

The stumbling block in choosing Megane can be the assembly, namely the choice between a purely French and Turkish assembly plant. Personally, I think the opinion about a better French assembly is just another stereotype and I don’t see much difference. Unless in the body type - hatchbacks were assembled at a factory in France, sedans - in Turkey. There were also rare station wagons originally from Spain. But if this is a matter of principle, then the owner is a gentleman.

Pictured: Renault Megane 3-door "2006–09

When you decide to sell a car, you will have to be patient. It is difficult to name any specific dates, here you are as lucky. The French, in principle, are strongly attached to their Russian owners and are very reluctant to part with them. Moreover, Renault Megane II has more popular competitors in the face of Ford Focus, Opel Astra And Nissan Almera. I personally know a lucky man who parted with a swallow for more than a year and a half (!). True, in fairness, it is worth noting that it was a hatchback.

Would you buy a Renault Megane II?