When to change the stabilizer bar bushings. How to change the stabilizer bushings yourself, the reasons for their wear. Tools and Consumables
Stabilizers - suspension parts that are responsible for the stability of the car on the road. They prevent skidding, rocking, vibration. Metal stabilizers are interconnected by elastic elements for shock absorption.
The purpose of the stabilizer bar bushings
Form stabilizer bushings the same for all car manufacturers. They may differ slightly, depending on the design of the suspension. The rubber bands of the stabilizer have grooves that increase wear resistance and enhance lateral stability. These channels and grooves protect the parts from the weather and the road, resulting in longer life.
What material are the bushings made from?
It is a molded part made of rubber or polyurethane. The latter are more common, they are easy to use, do not cause squeaks and other discomfort. They are installed on most modern cars.
Rubber is more sensitive to temperature changes, cracking and crumbling more often. It also causes an unpleasant creak when turning the machine, which is created by the friction of the parts. Some manufacturers add fabric anthers that act as spacers.
Classification by type of construction
By design, these parts are divided into:
Two-pipe. They consist of two cylinders. This type is used in modern cars.
Single-pipe. They have only 1 cylinder.
Types of front and rear hubs
According to the design and material of the thrust bushing roll stability differ in rubber and iron. The latter type is outdated today, it is believed that rubber copes better with the role of depreciation and increased grip on the road.
Rubber
Rubber and polyurethane parts dampen car vibrations, make the trip more comfortable. When turning the car, they play a role in keeping it from rolling.
iron
This is an outdated design, outwardly it looks like ball joint. They are more reliable, as they are made of metal, but perform the function of depreciation worse than rubber.
Symptoms
Bushing wear front stabilizer can be determined on inspection. To do this, you need to drive the car into an inspection hole and clean the parts from dirt. Cracks and scuffs indicate that parts need to be changed.
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Additional signs of wear:
Beating in the steering wheel;
Vibrations and noises in the suspension;
Steering wheel play;
Body rolls with noises and clicks;
The instability of the car on the road.
If you notice these signs, contact a car service or carry out self-diagnosis. Check all suspension elements, carefully inspect the rear stabilizer bushings.
Creaking details
Many drivers notice the creaking of the front stabilizer bushings. It appears with sudden changes in ambient temperature. There are several reasons for the creak:
Low quality material;
Hardening of rubber in the cold;
Part wear;
Suspension design features.
You can temporarily get rid of the squeak with the help of silicone grease. But remember that in some cases it is inefficient, and also reduces the resource of parts.
Bushings are parts that are designed to tightly hold the stabilizers during torsion. Therefore, it is not recommended to lubricate them, this can lead to scrolling of the beams and loss of structural stability.
New bushings may creak due to the fact that they have not got used to the mechanisms. If over time the creak does not go away, then you need to change them. It is believed that polyurethane parts creak less than rubber ones.
Service life and prices
Typically, the stabilizer bushings are replaced every 30,000 km. They can fail earlier with active use of the car. You need to carefully monitor their condition in order to notice wear and tear in time and extend the life of the entire suspension of the car.
The cost of parts for Kia
To change the stabilizer rubber bands for Kia, it is recommended to remove the crankcase protection. Then the process will go faster and easier. One spare part costs 50-200 rubles, depending on the car model.
cost of parts for toyota
For premium car models, even small parts are expensive. For example, for Corolla, Avensis, Rav4 bushings cost 250-400 rubles. For other models, the price is 50-150 rubles.
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The price of spare parts for Renault
Renault models have reinforced and conventional suspension. The bushings for them have different diameters, this must be taken into account when buying. The average cost of auto parts is 100-200 rubles.
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Price of spare parts for Nissan
The cost of parts for Nissan depends on the model and the city where you live. Buying auto parts online can help you cut costs and save time. The average cost of bushings is 100-300 rubles.
Which bushings are suitable for Ford, diameter and part numbers
The article of spare parts for Ford is 4671720. They cost 200-400 rubles. The diameter of the bushings must match the diameter of the stabilizer. It is different for every manufacturer. Common sizes are from 18 to 25 mm.
Replacement algorithm
Replacing the stabilizer bushings with your own hands is a simple process that even a beginner can handle. Regardless of the car model, the replacement algorithm remains the same.
Do-it-yourself front stabilizer bushing replacement:
Drive the car into a viewing hole.
Put the car on a jack, loosen the bolts and remove the front wheels.
Remove the struts from the stabilizer.
At the bushing clamp, loosen the rear bolts and completely unscrew the front bolts.
Remove the old bushings, clean the attachment points.
Lubricate new parts with a silicone-based rubber lubricant and install in place.
Tighten all bolts in reverse order.
Take a test drive. Make sure the problem is gone. If not, run additional diagnostics and find the problem.
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Replacement rear bushings stabilizer is carried out in a similar way.
Now you know how to change the stabilizer bushings on any car. It takes a few minutes even for a novice motorist. The key to success is choosing a reliable spare parts manufacturer. Then the rubber bands will last a long time.
The bushing is an important element of the suspension, since the safety of driving depends on it. If, as a result of the diagnosis vehicle it was found that the stabilizer bushings had become unusable, they must be replaced in a timely manner. The replacement process is not difficult, so you can do it in the garage, armed with a small amount of tools.
What tools are needed?
If, with an increase in speed or a collision with an obstacle, the suspension begins to make noise, we can talk about a malfunction of its elements. In such cases, most often it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings. To do this, prepare the tools:
- head collar,
- ratchet,
- a metal brush, which is needed to clean the seat and stabilizer from rust,
- brush for applying penetrating lubricant,
- stationery knife for cutting the sleeve.
Dismantling Features
Replacing such an important structural element of the undercarriage of the machine as a bushing requires a responsible approach. If rubber products were previously installed, it is advisable to replace them with polyurethane products created by the Tochka Opory brand. Polyurethane parts make driving easier even when overcoming difficult road conditions. In addition, they protect the suspension and bodywork and have a long service life.
Dismantling begins with stripping the mounting bolts and applying a penetrating lubricant to facilitate the process. After that, the fixing nuts are unscrewed, the brackets of the stabilizer bushing are dismantled. Rust, rubber residues must be removed from all working surfaces. They are lubricated for added protection. After removing the old products, you need to inspect the stabilizer itself and seat.
Installation of polyurethane parts
New bushings come in a set of two, waterproof grease for fitting them, and instructions. To begin with, they are cut in the place where the dismantled parts were cut. For this, a clerical knife is used, which is pre-wetted in water to facilitate the work.
Lubricant is applied inside the bushing with a brush. Clamps must be protected from dirt, rust. Otherwise, the product is deformed, a creak will appear inside it. It is imperative to clean the seat, and the stabilizer must be treated to eliminate dirt and dust with a special lubricant.
Polyurethane products must be mounted with a cut in the same direction as the worn parts were located. It remains to put the brackets in place, bait and tighten the nuts. The tightening torque should be set in accordance with the instructions. The video will tell you more about replacing the stabilizer bushing.
Why brand "Point of Support"?
We recommend using polyurethane bushings of the Tochka Opory brand as new elements of the car suspension. Spare parts made of polyurethane prevent premature wear running gear of the car. In addition, polyurethane products due to their elasticity, resistance to natural factors and unpretentiousness are ideal for use in the climatic conditions of Russia.
Most rubber bushings lose their properties due to exposure to adverse factors. Polyurethane parts will keep performance characteristics even at low temperatures. At the same time, vehicle handling will be better, and the frequency of replacing suspension elements will decrease.
In our online store you can buy stabilizer bushings made of polyurethane brand "Point of Opory": always in stock big choice products of this brand. Experienced managers will help with the choice of goods in the IXORA store.
| Manufacturer | Detail number | Part name | Applicability* |
|---|---|---|---|
| TOCHKA OPORY | 3021414 | MITSUBISHI COLT Z2 (2002.10 -) PAJERO MINI H53A, H | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 1011041 | TOYOTA AVENSIS AZT250, AZT255 (2003.07 -) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 101897 | TOYOTA AVENSIS AZT250.. 251…SED (2006.06 -) WG..LI (2003.07 -) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 101755 | TOYOTA CAMRY ACV30 | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 101040 | TOYOTA COROLLA AE101 (1997.05 - 2000.08) SPRINTER AE101 GT | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 9012176 | SUZUKI GRAND VITARA | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 26012665 | GREAT WALL HOVER SAFE | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 101758 | TOYOTA COROLLA FIELDER COROLLA RUNX ALLEX NZE124, ZZE124 C | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 8011034 | SUBARU FORESTER SH5, SH9, SHJ (2007.09 -) LEGACY B4 BL5, B | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 8011643 | SUBARU IMPREZA (2008.07 -) FORESTER (2007.09 -) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 12011506 | HYUNDAI ACCENT VERNA (1999 -) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 3011213 | MITSUBISHI LANCER MIRAGE ASTI CS5A, CS5W AIRTREK CU4W | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 4012198 | MAZDA CX7ER (2006-) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 17032072 | VAZ 2101, MOSKVICH 2140 | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 202658 | NISSAN SENTRA B1 | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 12012703 | KIA MENTOR (HB) I, II (1997 - 2004), KIA CARENS (1999 - 2002) | |
| TOCHKA OPORY | 301886 |
The car's suspension is the first to meet all the bumps in the car's path, taking on all the blows from the pits, potholes and other "pleasant" surprises that our roads are full of. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but together they are all designed to dampen the resulting shock loads when the machine is moving, as well as to ensure proper controllability and stability of the vehicle when cornering or making sharp maneuvers. Parts such as the stabilizer bar bushing often require replacement. You can do the work yourself.
A little about the work of the car suspension
It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers almost directly depends on the health of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.
Each suspension component of a car is designed for a specific function. The levers, together with the trunnions, hold the wheel in the required plane, allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes in parallel (the moment of entering the turn).
Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby guaranteeing a smooth ride of the vehicle. The springs at the same time are designed to ensure the stiffness of the suspension and the return of its components to their original state.
The main components and components of the front suspension of the car
But there is another important detail in the suspension, without which no one modern car does not cost. And this part is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or put on a viewing hole. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed with one of its shoulders to the subframe, and with the other - to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.
In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and above. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to ensure the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.
Thus, the main task of the stabilizer in the process of movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of rather sharp turns or a sudden change in the trajectory of movement.
The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar
On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar working in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces arising in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which, due to the hinges, communicate with the suspension. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle, and even more so its rollover.
The rear axle is most often equipped with a stabilizer of this type if the vehicle has all-wheel drive. When it comes to cars with rear wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the jet rod, also known as the Panhard rod.
Also, a number of Japanese SUVs at one time, in addition to the Panhard rod, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which, in the form of a curved rod, went along the beam rear axle and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.
Stabilizer bushings. Symptoms of a malfunction. Consequences.
For the best damping of vibration and force effects on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same applies to the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (elastic bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. The result of this is the unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which over time will only grow faster.
Scheme of the device of the stabilizer and the elements of its fastening
The first symptom that portends the replacement of the bushings will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with “tired” shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only in pits and potholes, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels unnecessarily rolled and sluggish. The knock that appears will be the result of the backlash that has arisen in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.
If measures are not taken in time, then the knocks will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll may appear and excessive play steering wheel. It is possible to “yaw” the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or rebuilding. Automakers for the most part advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30–40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and a slight bounce in the corners will be clear signs of an impending component replacement.
As a folk method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move obliquely in 2nd gear of the speed bump. There was a dull knock in the pedal area - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn bushing will “please” with the presence of cracks and abrasions characteristic of worn and cracked rubber. Auto repairmen sometimes call these cracks "daisies".
Stabilizer bushing and mounting bracket
Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply become dull and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings cannot be properly examined, then simply swing your hand up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel play, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.
But for best result it is better, of course, to call on a flyover, a viewing hole or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting spatula, which you just need to rest against the bottom of the car and slightly “shake” the stabilizer, at the points of its docking with the body. If a noticeable backlash is felt or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.
The process of replacing the stabilizer bushing
It won't take long to replace bushings. All you need is the right tool, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a couple of jacks and a special rigid support in advance
Tool you may need
Required tools for bushing replacement
Work order
View of the stabilizer pad before starting work
Lower arm jacked up for easy tire change
The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer
A pre-soaped or lubricated new bushing is installed
New bushing at the end of all work
It must be understood that the device and the complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ markedly and the above instructions are not universal. But for a general understanding of the process and the order of work, it is more than enough.
A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars
Replacement for VAZ: video guide
Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instruction
Replacing the stabilizer rubber bands on the Chevrolet Aveo
Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)
The job of replacing bushings is not a difficult or time-consuming task. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But even in the price lists of service stations, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to get confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.
The anti-roll bar is an interesting thing. Its main feature is the frequent underestimation by motorists, especially those who have recently been driving or have not seen anything cooler than the “nine” with leaked shock absorbers. Indeed, you can even remove it and throw it away - the car will still drive. True, bad.
What are bushings and why are they needed
The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension during movement and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. As a rule, they are made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes when bending.
Often, a malfunction of the bushings can be indicated by various sounds that occur during movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.
Design features of the stabilizer
In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, maximum speed which exceeded the mark of 20 km / h. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from rollover, since during the turn the load on the outer wheels increases, and on the inside, on the contrary, it decreases. This causes the machine to wobble. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.
On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only in front, but also in the rear. The stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion beam is installed in the rear of the car: the functions of the stabilizer will be assigned to the suspension itself.
The design of the stabilizer of many cars is a U-shaped metal rod made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the blows from various suspension elements fall on them.
Stabilizer bushings. Symptoms of a malfunction. Consequences.
For the best damping of vibration and force effects on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same applies to the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (elastic bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. The result of this is the unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which over time will only grow faster.
The first symptom that portends the replacement of the bushings will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with “tired” shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only in pits and potholes, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels unnecessarily rolled and sluggish. The knock that appears will be the result of the backlash that has arisen in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn bushings.
If measures are not taken in time, then the knocks will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive steering wheel play may occur. It is possible to “yaw” the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or rebuilding. Automakers for the most part advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30–40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and a slight bounce in the corners will be clear signs of an impending component replacement.
As a folk method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move obliquely in 2nd gear of the speed bump. There was a dull knock in the pedal area - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn bushing will “please” with the presence of cracks and abrasions characteristic of worn and cracked rubber. Auto repairmen sometimes call these cracks "daisies".
Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply become dull and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings cannot be properly examined, then simply swing your hand up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel play, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.
But for the best result, it is better, of course, to call on a flyover, a viewing hole or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting spatula, which you just need to rest against the bottom of the car and slightly “shake” the stabilizer, at the points of its docking with the body. If a noticeable backlash is felt or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings. 
List of required tools
You certainly need to have the following set of tools: new bushings; to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required; keys for 17 and 15; for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10; for mounting bolts - key 13; clamps made of metal material by 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced; anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40; graphite lubricant; jack.
Benefits of timely replacement
Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. Everything can be done with your own hands, but if you do not have the time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will protect the anti-roll bars from premature wear.
Riding on poor-quality road surfaces will fade into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings mean the absence of difficulties and problems when driving, as well as comfort and safety.
Kia stabilizer bushing replacement
Replacing the bushings of the Kia stabilizer provides for the following algorithm: Raise the front of the car and remove the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), unscrew the mounting bolt. Using a jack, raise the gearbox, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe. For easier access to back cushions four bolts are unscrewed, with the help of which the subframe is attached. Raise the front part of the subframe with a jack. Remove the fastener and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosive processes on the metal. Screw them into place only four or five turns.
This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane. Loosen the jack to a level at which it is possible to reach the bushing bolts. bushing with right side can be easily screwed through engine compartment, and on the left side - below. Insert staples. This procedure is carried out in a careful way so as not to cause damage to the clamp on the steering boot. The process is repeated in reverse order. The features of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore its installation takes place at the last moment.
There are the following types of bushings:
1. Spherical (or “iron”) bushing. The design resembles a ball bearing;
2. Rubber bushing.
Today, more and more popular polyurethane type stabilizer bushings. They are quite easy to replace, which is an important plus, and they also have good performance for operation. Experienced drivers can safely say that it is precisely such details that are the most convenient.
If there was a malfunction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe stabilizer bushing, it must be replaced without fail. Otherwise, it can very badly affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. When the bushing is deformed or cracked, some noise may appear in the area of the car suspension (mainly when the car runs into an obstacle or increases speed). In principle, problems in the suspension area are determined precisely by such noises.
For, to make sure that it is necessary to replace the bushings, periodically it is necessary to carry out diagnostics of the suspension, after which a malfunction will be detected, or its prevention.
In the event that it is found that it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushing, you can do it yourself. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this and this procedure is very simple. First, the bolts with which the clamp is attached are unscrewed. Then the stabilizer is set aside and the old parts are removed. Well, for the final action, a new part is installed very carefully.
It is in this scheme both the front stabilizer and the rear stabilizer are being replaced. After replacing parts, driving a car will be much more pleasant and comfortable, and various kinds of road obstacles will be overcome without any difficulty. Among other things, with the new elements, the performance of the racks will be maximized.
If the cars always drove in a straight line, and if they didn’t accelerate or slow down, the stabilizer would not be needed at all. His work begins every time the car tries to tilt. Whether it is lateral roll when cornering or longitudinal when braking, the stabilizer tries to keep the body parallel to the road surface. And despite the elementary design, he does it well.
The stabilizer is just a link that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (today we will talk about the MacPherson strut front suspension, so let's say it's easier - with a suspension arm). It should be noted that just MacPherson really, really needs the use of a stabilizer, mainly due to some compromise in the design. The camber angle is static there, but with rolls it changes due to the peculiarities of the suspension scheme. Why is it bad? The fact that changing the camber angles inevitably reduces the contact area of the tire with the road. And the only way to avoid this phenomenon is to reduce the roll. This is where the stabilizer helps, which works like a torsion bar: with a lateral roll, the opposite ends, fixed in the levers, begin to move in different directions, twisting the middle part. The resulting moment prevents further relative movement of the wheels, reducing the roll. As you can see, it works very simply.
But in order not to become a fan of the cult of the stabilizer, it is necessary to say a few words about its shortcomings. First, the stabilizer willy-nilly reduces suspension travel. Of course for passenger car this is not critical, but for an SUV it can be harmful. Well, and secondly, you should not get carried away with replacing the stabilizer with some more rigid ones, which some car owners sometimes like to do. In their opinion, a more durable stabilizer will help to almost completely avoid rolls and turn a Zhiguli into a Formula 1 car. This is a very dangerous delusion.
The very first thing Kulibin will encounter with a piece of iron as thick as an arm in the front suspension is an unexpectedly easy drift into a skid due to an unhealthy imbalance in the adhesion of the front and rear wheels with the road (at the rear it will be insufficient). It must be understood that the engineers developing the suspensions carefully calculated not only each of the suspensions, but also their joint work. And if it is incorrect to intervene in the work of one of them, the controllability as a whole will decrease, although the roll, quite possibly, will become a little less.
So, what does the bushings have to do with it, and why change them? As I said, the stabilizer must be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the right and left wheels. If it is welded or rigidly attached to the subframe in any other way, it will be deprived of such an opportunity, which is why it is attached to it with the help of bushings. Over time, they are erased, and the stabilizer begins to “walk” in them.
This play, like any other, increases the degrees of freedom of the part, which negate all its ability to prevent roll. And then in the corners the car begins to fall on its side more than it should.
Not every motorist will immediately notice this, so they change the bushings in other cases: if wear is detected during suspension diagnostics, or if it is already starting to knock. However, the second situation is usually more characteristic not due to physical wear, but due to a good blow or other mechanical effect.
So, we are imbued with the understanding that the bushings must be replaced periodically, and this is completely normal. Let's see how to do it.
What will be needed?
What's great about this repair is that it's inexpensive. And I would even say that it makes no sense to do it with your own hands, no matter how skillful they may be. Therefore, we will go to the service and just watch how the specialist does it.
You will need a minimum of a tool: an 18 mm head and a 10 mm key (or head). But look at the key: why did life cripple him so? In fact, we have before us not just a key, but the Modernized Special Tool of Alexei Teleshov, we will call it that.
Since we will be changing the bushings on Logan, we will have to take into account some of its features, so such a tricky key may come in handy. In addition, you will have to look for a lift, and it is likely that a hydraulic rack (we used it, anyway) along with a grinder. So, despite the apparent simplicity, it is not so simple.
Now about the cost of spare parts. There is no point in chasing the original, there are very worthy manufacturers, especially since the sleeve is a piece of rubber, and it’s not so hard to do something there. Therefore, we pay attention to two running models: the French Sasic for 160 rubles and the Belgian Sidem for 180. We will choose Sasic.
We go into the box and get up on the lift.
As is usually the case with threaded connections at the bottom of the machine, they have long been covered with a layer of dirt and sour. Therefore, before starting work, it makes sense to pour WD 40 bolts. We wait a little and pull out the same key with a broken fate into the light and try to unscrew the bolt ten from above (seen in the photo).
Naturally, this is as useless as asking a cat to go through an ajar door faster (if you have a cat, you will understand the futility of the plan). But in this case, the very design of the Logan suspension helps us: this bolt is usually simply cut off, because its purpose is not clear to anyone, even for a heavier and off-road Duster, this knot is made simpler and a little more gentle (and the bolt there is of a smaller diameter). Therefore, the specialist draws a mark with a white marker, according to which it will be necessary to cut off the ear of the clamp. Now it's up to the "Bulgarian": we cut off this ear and go to the other side.
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Here the matter is complicated by the dangerous proximity of the clamp to the fuel pipes. They will have to be removed. This is easy to do: unscrew the nearest bolt to protect the oil pan, after which the tubes can be pulled out of the latches and taken to the side. So that they do not interfere, they can be fixed with a hook from any sufficiently rigid wire. But all this will have to be done only if the eyelet is to be cut off from this side too - for some reason, the bolt here for some reason was easily unscrewed.
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Now we remove the clamp. We unscrew the head of the only fixing bolt. Removing the clamp is not so easy, so we take the assembly tool and hook it up by the hole of this bolt. Everything, the clamp is in our hands. Now, with the same mounting tool, we remove the stabilizer from the subframe and take out the bushing. For the sake of interest, let's compare the new and old bushings. On the part that we just removed, wear is visible, but it is not yet critical. A well-defined ovality is noticeable at the finally killed bushing. But if we started to change, then we do the work to the end.
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We take the installation tool again and again move the stabilizer away from the subframe. We put the sleeve, after which the assembly can be removed. To make it easier to install the clamp, we use grease (we used copper). We apply it to both the clamp and the bolt.
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This is necessary in order, firstly, to make it easier to put on the clamp, and secondly, it is easier to unscrew the bolt next time. Pushing the clamp into place by hand is not always possible. I would even say that it always fails. Hitting the rubber with a hammer is usually useless, so we drag a hydraulic rack under the car. We rest it on the collar and slightly raise it. If everything is assembled correctly (although what can be assembled incorrectly there?), Then the holes on the clamp and subframe will match, and we will only have to bait the bolt and then tighten it to the end.
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It happens that the collar does not want to get into place. In this case, do not try to pull it onto the sleeve with excessive force: it can be damaged or deformed and simply tightened crookedly. It will turn out even worse than it was, because the stabilizer is equally contraindicated for both excessive play and a too tightened position when it cannot work as a torsion bar. Most likely, the point is an insufficient amount of lubrication - without it, the friction between the clamp iron and the bushing rubber will not allow the part to be installed correctly and without extra effort. Add it a little and everything will go much easier.
And now we repeat exactly the same operation on the other side, not forgetting to put it back in place fuel pipes and tighten the protection bolt if they still had to be removed. That's all.
What is the result?
In principle, there are no cardinal differences on other cars with MacPherson front suspension. And there is hardly anything difficult in this work if it were not for the use of a hoist and some other tools to deal with soured bolts.
Work in the service would cost 440 rubles per side. Inexpensive, but you can try to do it yourself. There is a charm here: if something went wrong, you can carefully drive to the service station without a stabilizer at all, and everything will be collected there as expected. Well, maybe they will laugh, but this is already in your absence.
It will be much worse to continue to drive with broken or worn bushings. Even if nothing knocks below (and at first nothing will knock for sure), controllability will decrease, sometimes even to disgrace. It’s not worth bringing to this point, each turn will be much more dangerous than it really is.
For help in preparing the material, we thank the Logan-Shop network of specialized stores and car services (St. Petersburg, Shkolnaya st., 73/2, tel: 928-32-20)
Have you ever had a stabilizer bar?