One of the important issues of car body repair is painting, which should be carried out in accordance with the repair technology and with the help of properly selected materials: fillers, primers, paints and varnishes. The main task of repair painting is to restore the factory paintwork while maintaining the main functional characteristics (mechanical strength, corrosion protection, etc.), as well as to achieve maximum compliance of the repaired area in color and structure with the original body paintwork. The repair must be invisible.

Consider the main technological stages of body repair: washing and degreasing, cleaning the surface, puttying, applying primers and finishing coatings.

With the help of a wide range of professional body repair products, you can carry out high-quality preparation for painting and do-it-yourself car painting. If the technology is followed, the result will be impressive. And the acquired skills will help you quickly and without extra cash costs to paint the entire car or only damaged parts.

The materials included in the repair system must meet the following requirements:

• good adhesion
• corrosion protection
• leveling (filling) ability
• color for discreet repairs
• appropriate gloss level

Obviously, all these factors are closely related. In order to select the optimal repair system, a good knowledge of body repair products and their characteristics is essential.

What materials are needed for a standard repair with painting?

As a rule, self-painting of some parts of the car may be required if, for example, scratches or scuffs appear on the bumper, as well as doors, due to careless parking. It is not always necessary to immediately contact the service station, sometimes the situation can be corrected on its own. It will be enough to correctly assess the scale of the necessary repairs and choose high-quality materials for preparing the surface for painting and painting the car itself. If the damage is minor, you can limit yourself to a set of simple standard repair operations:

• Putty
• Ground Leveler
• Finish: synthetic, acrylic or polyurethane enamels
• Finishing coat: base paints under varnish

What is included in the full cycle repair with car painting?

If you had to deal with serious damage, which, moreover, was not repaired in a timely manner, most likely you will have to carry out a full cycle repair with subsequent painting. This process will take longer (especially if rust needs to be removed) and requires the following materials:

• Epoxy primer
• Putty
• Corrosion protective primer
• Ground Leveler
• Finishing coating - enamels
• Finishing coat - base paints under varnish

Do not forget that the selection of products for preparing the car surface for painting also depends on the material from which the repaired part is made (steel, galvanized steel, aluminum or plastic) and on the type of old paintwork (hard or soft).

Currently, many manufacturers make their car bodies from galvanized steel and aluminum. This provides higher corrosion resistance and durability, but at the same time requires the use of special repair materials. There are a number of products suitable for application to galvanized steel and aluminium.

Any type of body repair requires accurate and correct execution of a certain sequence of operations. A missed or incorrectly performed operation can lead to various defects in the paintwork.

Proper preparation of a car for painting: step by step instructions

1. Washing
2. We clean the place for painting
3. Degreasing
4. Putty application
5. grinding
6. Degreasing.
7. Ground camouflage.
8. Degreasing
9. Application of etching soil
10. Application of primer-filler
11. Drying
12. Removing the disguise.
13. grinding
14. Degreasing
15. Camouflage for paint
16. Degreasing
17. Applying paint / varnish
18. Drying
19. Removing the disguise
20. Assembly
21. Polishing
22. Washing

Dust, dirt, road salt, grease, etc. are the main enemies of any paint system. Therefore, in any type of body repair, the first operation is a wash.

Stage number 1. Washing

Why do we need washing and degreasing a car when preparing a surface for painting:

• to remove various salt compounds, dirt, grease, etc. (due to not washed off salt, such a defect as “bubble” may occur);
• for optimal adhesion of the repair coating (dirt that is not washed off clogs into scratches when stripping);
• to save materials, time and money (due to the dirt that gets on it, the abrasive material quickly clogs and fails - grinding time increases);
• to exclude the possibility of craters (the dirt remaining in the risks after stripping may contain fats or silicones);
• to exclude low gloss (due to the grinding product remaining in the risks).

Stage number 2. We apply masking and clean the surface for painting

When the car is washed, you can safely proceed to the preparation of the surface for painting. To do this, we designate the place where the painting work will be carried out. If we paint a separate part, its borders must be pasted over with masking tape and thick paper. Then you need to clean up the defects (chips, scratches) with sandpaper (grain size P150-P280). This will remove layers of old paintwork and smooth out the edges.

Stage number 3. Degreasing

• Always use two clean wipes when degreasing - the first wets the surface, the second (dry) removes the contaminants dissolved in the degreaser;
• Degrease in small areas (approximately 50x50 cm) in order to have time to wipe with a dry cloth until the degreaser evaporates;
• Carry out degreasing immediately before applying the material;
• During degreasing, the surface cools, so you need to allow time for the temperature to equalize (condensation may occur);
• It is necessary to degrease in personal protective equipment: rubber gloves, a respirator, goggles.

Degreasing is a mandatory step in the process of surface preparation for painting, and it must be carried out before applying each subsequent layer.

Stage number 4. Puttying

If the car has chips or deep scratches, before painting the car, you will have to use putty to level the surface. The putty is the thickest layer in the system, so it is the putty that influences the final shape of the car body. When puttying, special attention must be paid to the choice of polyester putty and to the preparation of the surface for puttying.

Surface preparation for putty

Sanding before applying putty	Grind to metal - P120 circles, then smooth out the boundary edges P220
Shaping putty	Sheets P120-P180 on grinding with dust extraction
Preparation for primer leveler	Wheels P220 - P280 - machined
Preparing a new panel for wet-on-wet ground	P320 wheels - machined
Sanding before applying paint	Waterproof sanding paper P1000 - hand sanding Dry sanding paper P320 - P500 - machined

Improper preparation of the surface for putty can subsequently lead to such a defect in the paintwork as contouring. You can avoid this by following the following technology:

1. Clean the degreased surface down to metal ;
2. Smooth out the edges of the stain of the repair area by thinner .

The choice of putty

When choosing a putty, you should pay attention to the nature of the damage (the size and depth of the dents, the hole in the body panel, etc.) and the type of surface (steel, galvanized steel or aluminum).

Basic rules for applying putty

• Apply putty only to bare metal or epoxy primer.
• Follow the correct proportions when mixing with the hardener (maximum 3% hardener) - otherwise, with an excess of hardener, molecules will remain that have not reacted with the putty.
• Mix very thoroughly with the hardener.
• Never sand the putty "wet", as it is hygroscopic.
• Soil application.

Hardeners

The hardener affects primarily the speed of hardening of the product. Therefore, the drying time of the product will be a decisive factor when choosing a hardener. Hardeners are mainly of three types - slow, standard and fast. It is very important to observe the correct proportions when mixing any paint product with a hardener:

• With a lack of hardener, curing (polymerization) will not occur completely.
• With an excess of curing agent, the curing agent molecules may react with another substrate. For example, with water (moisture), causing loss of gloss of the paintwork. Remember that hardeners are the most sensitive of all products to humidity and low temperatures. Therefore, never leave a can of hardener open and observe the temperature conditions for storing and transporting hardeners.

Stage number 5. grinding

Before painting a car, any paint and varnish coating should be applied to a well-degreased and sanded surface. With the help of grinding, we make the surface "rough". The many thousands of small scratches resulting from sanding increase the surface and this ensures optimal adhesion of the coating to the substrate.

The time spent on surface grinding takes more than 50% of the total repair time. For this reason, this part of the work should be as efficient as possible.

When carrying out grinding work, pay attention to the following points:

• Choice of type of grinding: dry or wet, manual or mechanical.
• Selecting the appropriate sander for the type of work being done: orbital, eccentric or surface sander.
• Choice of abrasive material and grinding steps.

Is it possible to do without sanding a car before painting?

We have already said that the sanding process, performed in good faith, guarantees half the success of all paint jobs. During grinding, all irregularities are removed and a risk is created for better adhesion of each new layer of material with the previous one. We list the main points on which the grinding stage should never be skipped and why it is needed:

• To improve surface adhesion with subsequent applied materials
• To create the desired shape and surface
• To remove old coating

Dry or wet sanding

Dry grinding is the most advanced and promising and has a number of advantages compared to wet grinding:

• Time saving
• Material saving
• Elimination of the possibility of corrosion
• Exclusion of absorption and saturation of processed materials with water
• No need to wait for the water to completely evaporate
• Less harmful to health (in the version with dust extraction)
• More diverse range of equipment for mechanical dry grinding
• Significantly wider range of abrasives for dry grinding
• For high-quality repair, the use of high-quality abrasive materials is necessary.

Choice of grinding steps

• Do not sand polyester materials (fillers) with water. Grinding of this type is allowed only at the stage of processing the leveling soil.
• When grinding, it is necessary to follow the correct steps in reducing the grain size of abrasive materials (each step in reducing the grain size should not exceed 100 units).
• The abrasive material must be with the sign of the international standard, which indicates the quality and uniformity of the grain.
• Border zones should overlap.

Stage number 6. Padding

Primers provide corrosion protection, level the surface and create good adhesion between the substrate and the finish coat. They are etching and acrylic primers.

Purpose of primary soils:

• Corrosion protection.
• Ensuring adhesion of the surface and the basis of the subsequent coating.

Appointment of primers-fillers:

• Filling scratches from abrasive material, irregularities, leveling the surface.
• Base for subsequent paint application.

How to work with soil?

• Use a measuring ruler when mixing.
• Thoroughly mix the soil before dilution.
• If the primer is tinted, then paint is first added, and then a hardener and solvent are added to the resulting volume in the appropriate proportion.
• Do not attempt to extend the pot life of the product by adding a solvent.
• Apply layers correctly - inside the stain to avoid overspray.
• Observe the correct drying intervals between coats and do not speed up the drying time between coats by blowing - the solvent is blocked by a film and “boiling” occurs.
• Use either dry or aerosol developer before sanding.
• Never use primers beyond the specified pot-life after mixing.
• Do not paste too close to the priming area.
• Make sure that the primer is completely hardened (risk of deep scratches during sanding and settling).

Stage number 7. Base/enamel application

When the preparation of the surface for painting is completed, you can proceed directly to painting the car. In fact, this step will take you much less time than those described above.

Body repair is a full or partial restoration of the body, both removable and non-removable elements. The purpose of body repair is to identify and repair hidden and visible damage. Hidden damages include corrosion, microcracks, metal fatigue. Visual damage is dents, chips, scratches.

If your car body is made of aluminum or carbon fiber, then your car is safe. But if the body is steel, and there are about 99% of such cars, then you should think about taking care of your body. Sometimes a very slight damage to the paintwork is enough to start corrosion, and if it is not stopped in time, this will lead to serious damage. Do not forget that this affects the safety of your car.

The best option for repair would be a specialized car service. In this case, the difference between an official car service and a specialized one will be the price. In the official car service, the price will be many times higher. If we talk about the "garage" service, then we are talking about poor quality work, and indeed the risks of being left without a car

No, during local repairs, you can paint the part with a “spot”, while modern technologies allow you to do this so high quality that you will never find a place to paint

Ask your question

Abstract on the topic:

"Body and Cabin Repair"

Is done by a student

3 courses 33-AK group

Speciality:

Maintenance and car repair. and tr-a

1. Defects of bodies and cabins…………………………………………3

2. Technological process of repair of bodies and cabins……………. 4

3. Repair of equipment and mechanisms of the body and cabins………….. 6

4. Repair of non-metallic body parts……………………. 6

5. Assembly and control of bodies and cabs………………………………….. 7

REPAIR OF BODIES AND CABINS.

Defects of bodies and cabins.

Typical defects in body parts, cabs and plumage (Fig. 1.) Are corrosion damage, mechanical damage (dents, breaks, tears, bulges, etc.), violation of geometric dimensions, cracks, destruction of welded joints, etc.

Corrosion damage is the main type of wear of a metal body and cabins. Here, an electrochemical type of corrosion takes place, in which the metal interacts with an electrolyte solution adsorbed from air. Corrosion develops especially strongly in places that are difficult to access for cleaning, where moisture periodically getting into them persists for a long time, and, due to an increase in ambient temperature, the oxidation reaction is intensified. Corrosion damage also occurs as a result of contact of steel parts with parts made of duralumin, plastic, wet wood and other materials.

Cracks occur as a result of metal fatigue, violation of metal processing technology, the use of poor shaft quality, defects in the assembly of units and parts, insufficient structural strength of the unit, as well as in places subject to vibration.

Destruction of welded joints occurs as a result of poor-quality welding, exposure to corrosion, vibration and stress during normal operation of the vehicle or as a result of accidental damage.

Mechanical damage (dents, distortions, breaks, etc.) are the result of overstressing of the metal as a result of impacts and bends, as well as due to loose connection of parts.

a

Fig.1. Characteristic damage :

a -all-metal body car :

1 - front and rear windshield openings;

2 - doorways;

3 - racks under the roof;

4 - front and rear spars;

5 - left and right thresholds of the base;

6 - bottom;

7-left and right rear mudguards

8 - violation of geometric dimensions;

9 - top and bottom, respectively, of the left and right rear mudguards;

10 - left and right front mudguards;

b - truck cab :

1 - destruction of welding seams; 2 - breaks; 3 - dents and bulges; 4 - deflection and distortion of the racks; 5 - holes; 6 - corrosion; 7-cracks

Technological process of repair of bodies and cabins.

The technological process of body and cab assembly repair includes dismantling, complete or partial removal of old paint, troubleshooting, repair of components or their replacement, assembly, painting and quality control.

Dismantling of bodies and cabins is carried out in two stages. This is the dismantling of all parts and assembly units installed on the inside and outside of the bodies and cabs, followed by disassembly of the body for repair after removing the old paintwork and identifying all its defects. Since in most cases all-metal bodies of bodies and cabs are one-piece (connected by welding), the body is not completely disassembled into panels and parts. It is carried out only to such an extent that it is possible to make a defect and, if necessary, replace or repair the elements of the body that form the frame.

Depending on the economic feasibility of repairing bodies and cabs, various methods are used to eliminate defects present on their surfaces.

The greatest labor intensity and cost of repairing bodies and cabs is the work to eliminate defects on their all-metal welded bodies. Repair of a body hull with various defects includes straightening panels, removing damaged sections of hulls, eliminating cracks and tears, fixing DRD in place of removed panels, forging and cleaning old seams, final straightening and leveling surfaces.

Irregularities in the panels are leveled by spraying powder plastics or epoxy compositions. To level dents in hard-to-reach places, a Tool of various shapes is used (Fig. 2). The bent end of the mandrel is inserted into the hole of the inner panel and the wrinkled surface is leveled by hammer blows on its handle. To eliminate shallow shallow dents, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled in it, into which a rod with a curved end is inserted and the concave part of the panel is pulled out to its normal position. The hole is then sealed with solder or epoxy.

Rice. 2. Dent Removal Tool Set:

1...6 - hammers; 7 and 8 - mallets; 9 - mandrels (spoons)

Editing panels with emergency damage provides for work on stretching, leveling, squeezing and knocking out deformed parts of the body or cab to give them their original shape and size. When performing these operations, it is necessary that the tensile force be applied at the same angle at which the force that caused the damage was applied. In order for the tension to be controlled, an opposing force must be applied opposite the point of application of the tensile force. When performing these works, it is necessary to control the stretching process, as well as possible accompanying deformations caused by the tensile force.

Editing emergency bodies and cabs is performed on stands (Fig. 3) using a set of devices (Fig. 4). Tensile and compression forces are created by working cylinders 1, 3 (Fig. 3), in which the liquid comes from the pump. For editing the body 4 set on stands 6, which are fixed on the base frame 2. The power transverse pipes rest on the supports, which are fixed with the jaws of the clamps to the stiffening ribs of the body sills. The fastening of the latter to the frame is performed by braces 5. Deep dents are eliminated by preliminary editing (Fig. 4, b) bends (Fig. 4, v) and distortions (Fig. 4, G). Since cracks or gaps may form during the straightening process, which must be eliminated in the future, straightening is carried out before welding.

Removal of damaged sections of bodies and cabs perform gas cutting, electrified milling tool or pneumatic cutter. The advantages of a pneumatic cutter are high labor productivity (0.08 ... 0.1 m/s) compared to gas cutting (0.02 m/s) and better edge quality at the cutting points. Defective areas are marked with templates and chalk, and then removed. When removing defective sections of the body or cab, it is necessary to protect the body from geometry distortion due to the weakening of its rigidity and under the action of its own weight.

Cracks and breaks in the body of bodies and cabs are eliminated by semi-automatic arc welding in carbon dioxide or gas welding. When repairing, preference is given to welding in a carbon dioxide environment, since the productivity of this process and the quality of the weld are higher. Welding is carried out by semi-automatic devices powered by direct current sources of reverse polarity with a power of 40 A and a voltage of 30 V, using electrode wire Sv-08GS or Sv-08G2S with a diameter of 0.7 mm. To limit the propagation of a crack during welding, its ends must be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.

Gas welding eliminates cracks and gaps in panels made of sheet steel 0.5 ... 2.5 mm thick, with VSM-53 or GS-53 burners with tips No. 1 (for sheets with a thickness of B.5 ... mm) and No. 2 (for sheets 1.0 ... 2.5 mm), using for this wire Sv-08 or Sv-15 with a diameter of (0.5L + 1) mm, where h is the thickness of the metal being welded. So that the part does not lose its willow shape when heated, first welding is carried out at separate points with an interval of 10 mm, and then, as necessary, individual sections are welded with a continuous seam from the ends of the crack to the middle.

Fig.3. Stand for editing the car body:

1,3 - working cylinders;

2 - frame;

4 - body;

5 - bracing device;

6 - stand

Production of an additional repair part they start with straightening the steel sheet, cutting it and cutting blanks according to the markup. After it, the part is bent or molded on special equipment, the finished parts are cut, drilled, straightened and cleaned. The material for the manufacture of the repair part is thin-sheet cold-rolled mild steel with a thickness of 0.7 ... 1.5 mm.

Rice. 4. Devices for editing deformed body area:

a- a set of devices for eliminating distortions and kinks;

b, v and G- use of tools for editing;

1 - mandrel for drawing concave parts;

2 and 3 - self-locking hydraulic clamps;

4 - mandrel with teeth for gripping the straightened panel;

5 - pump;

6 - double grip;

7 – tension cylinder with pulling device;

8 – tension cylinder with grips;

9 - correct device

Forging and cleaning of welded seams necessary to strengthen the welding site and give it the required profile. It is performed with a pneumatic hammer using a set of supports and strikers. After forging, the welding spots are cleaned with an abrasive wheel installed in pneumatic or electric portable machines.

Final editing and straightening body panels and cabs is designed to ensure assembly accuracy and remove small dents and bulges remaining on surfaces. Straightening is performed by a pneumatic straightening device or manually. Repair weld damage.

Repair of equipment and mechanisms of the body and cabins.

Fittings of bodies and cabs include power windows, locks, door stops, door hinges, hoods, etc.

Power windows may have the following defects: cracks and broken parts; skew and deformation of clips, frames and guides; loosening of rivet connections; damage to rubber seals; parts corrosion. Power windows and glass fastening mechanisms are subject to disassembly, washing, flaw detection, repair and assembly. In case of fault detection, the following are rejected: parts with broken parts; springs that have lost their elasticity; clips with worn glass, not amenable to compression; rivets that cannot be tightened; damaged rubber seals and other parts with wear on surfaces that affect the normal operation of the mechanism. Cracks in the parts are eliminated by welding, followed by cleaning of the welds, the curvature of the parts is straightened in a cold state.

Door locks may have the following defects: cracks and breaks, damage to the threaded holes, corrosion on the surfaces of the part, weakening of the springs and rivets fastening the parts, wear on the surfaces of the parts. Repair of locks consists in their disassembly, washing in kerosene, defect detection, restoration of damaged parts, assembly and adjustment. Parts that have deep traces of corrosion, worn surfaces and breaks, springs that have lost their elasticity are subject to rejection. Cracks in the lock body are welded. Broken off screws in threaded holes are removed. The damaged thread in the hole is welded, the welding spot is cleaned flush with the base metal, the hole is drilled and the thread is cut in accordance with the size on the working drawing. Minor deposits of corrosion on the surfaces of parts are cleaned with a scraper or sanding paper and washed off with kerosene.

door hinges may have defects: cracks and breaks, wear of holes and axles, curvature. Worn door hinge pins are replaced with new ones. Cracks and hole wear are eliminated by welding followed by machining. Worn holes for the hinge axis are expanded to the repair size, and the curvature of the hinge is eliminated by editing.

Repair of non-metallic body parts.

In the manufacture of automobiles, non-metallic materials are widely used: wood, plastics, synthetic leather, glass, rubber, etc. Most parts made from these materials cannot be restored during repair, but are replaced with new ones made at a repair company or manufacturer.

Wooden parts of the platform and body are made from softwood lumber (pine, spruce) with a moisture content of not more than 18%. The main defects are breakages, cracks, spalls, hole wear. Parts that have destroyed spikes or sockets for spikes are replaced with new ones. The wooden parts of the body platform are repaired by increasing them in length or by replacing unusable boards. Boards or bars are cut into blanks of certain sizes, planed from all sides, ends are cut, lugs, grooves are cut, holes are drilled, etc. For gluing wooden parts, phenol-formaldehyde adhesives such as VIAMB-3 and casein are used. The sequence of work: the surface intended for gluing is treated so that the parts fit snugly against each other and ensure that the adhesive film is uniform in thickness; the glue is applied with a brush on the surfaces to be glued (the exposure time in air for the VIAMB-3 glue is 4 minutes); assembly exposure of parts under pressure of 0.2 ... 0.3 MPa at a temperature of 16 ... 20 ° C for 5 hours; holes from fallen knots, bolts, screws are sealed with wooden cylindrical inserts from the same type of wood as the part being repaired on the glue, and the cracks are filled with mastics, wood putty, resin glue, or by placing wooden inserts on the glue, tightly fitted in place divided crack.

sheathing textile materials or leather substitutes during the repair of cars are replaced with a new one, since during operation the material ages, loses elasticity and other physical and mechanical properties.

Cabin and body glass may have scratches, turbidity, yellowness, iridescence, brush wear and other defects. Windshields and side windows with yellowness, iridescence and wear from brushes are rejected. Risks and scratches are eliminated by grinding, followed by polishing. The glass to be restored is cleaned of dirt, dust and grease. The areas of glass marked with chalk are polished with a felt upholstery of the circle, on which a layer of paste is applied, which is an aqueous solution of pumice, with a circle rotation frequency of 300 ... glass with an aqueous solution of crocus or polyrite with a circle rotation frequency of 700 ... 800 min - "until the required transparency is obtained. After processing, the glass is degreased.

Assembly and control of bodies and cabins.

WITHassembly of bodies and cabins when repairing cars, they perform in the following sequence:

before painting, all parts and assembly units to be painted together with the body (doors, hood, plumage, trunk lid, etc.) are installed on them, maintaining the required gaps between mating parts;

after applying paint coatings, the installation of the ceiling, sidewalls and interior trim panels of doors, windows, seats, noise and heat insulating gaskets, door seals, electrical equipment, instrument panel, parts of the ventilation and interior heating system, etc.

Subject to control: geometric deviations in the dimensions of the arrangement of groups of holes, interconnected functionally, using control and measuring equipment for this; openings of bodies and cabs and interfaces are controlled by templates according to the shape of the mating part; tightness and dust tightness of the body and cab. The tightness of the assembled body is checked in sprinkling installations at a water pressure of 2 kgf / cm2 for 6 minutes, while water penetration and the formation of condensate in lighting and signaling devices are recorded. The tightness of the door to its opening is determined by rubbing the seals with chalk. When the door is slammed, a uniform imprint of chalk should remain on the body or cab. Adjustment of the tightness of the door seals is achieved by moving the latch of the lock.

The body of a modern car is a complex structure that performs many important functions. Its renovation is the other side of the medal of importance and functionality. It is complex and laborious.

Conditionally body repair can be divided into two stages. The first is the elimination of dents, the replacement of elements beyond repair. Second - .

Particular attention should be paid to restoring the geometry and rigidity of the lower part of the body, hidden from view. It is these elements that are responsible for the safety and driving characteristics of the car. All suspension elements are attached to it.

When saving on materials and tools for body repair, it must be remembered that such savings can affect the quality of body repair and be the result of common mistakes. It is about how to avoid such errors that you should familiarize yourself with the main features.

Features of body repair

We offer

Welding elements with conventional electrodes

Connecting body elements by electronic welding is difficult, but real. At the same time, the quality of such a connection is very low.

Violation of the thermal regime

If the metal is not allowed to cool during welding, then the body may shift, which will have to be additionally puttied. However, such defects can not always be corrected with putty.

Replacing parts in strict order

First of all, the doors are replaced, then the wings and thresholds are set. This is the only way to avoid the formation of gaps.

Painting not in color

This often happens if one body part is painted without a smooth transition to another. Even if the paint is matched exactly with the original, the old paint on the body has a change in shade, which is associated with fading in the sun and other environmental factors.

Shrinkage

Appear with poor quality and its insufficient drying. Usually appear after repair, when the car stands in the sun. Usually you have to re-polish the places of putty after that.

Shagreen

This is the relief of the applied paint. After painting, there is usually a shagreen on the body, but it is removed by polishing. But there is one that cannot be removed by polishing. Usually a defect occurs when the paint is applied incorrectly, at high temperature in the chamber, viscous paint.

Dust in the paint

It usually occurs if the car is not painted in a special chamber. But when painting in a dirty chamber, it also takes place.

craters

Indentations from silicone, which had to be cut with a special knife.

Burnt varnish

It appears if you work with a grinder at high speed or grind the same place for too long, not allowing the varnish to cool.

The manifestation of rust

If the welds are poorly cleaned and primed, then rust can occur in these places, which appears through the paintwork.

Fulfilling car body repair in particular welding work, then for welding work you need to use a semi-automatic or argon welding. With the help of such welding, metal up to 1 mm thick can be boiled and the possibility of burning through body elements is excluded.

Body damage can be mild, moderate or severe. Straightening usually does not require special skills and using professional tools and materials will be within the power of everyone. Only certain difficulties and the need for skills may arise during straightening work after medium and complex damage to the body.

If more than 70% of the body needs repairs, it will be cheaper to buy a new car, isn't it body repair and sell the old one for parts.

You need to paint the car with fresh paint. The primer will help you identify irregularities and putty them with a finishing putty. You can paint only after the putty and primer have completely dried.

For painting, use a special spray gun. The paint should dry in special conditions of the camera without direct sunlight. Polishing is permissible only after the complete drying of the paintwork.