On the pages of our website, we try to raise only the most popular and pressing questions, giving them the most complete answers possible. The topic of buying a car can perhaps be called one of the most popular, and if we talk about used cars, then even the TOP topic.

Once we already talked about what you need to pay attention to when buying, etc. Today the topic is basically similar, only this time we will talk specifically about how to check the engine when buying a used car.

The biggest difficulty when checking an engine is that, unlike or, its condition cannot be determined “by eye”. Outwardly, it may be clean and tidy, but inside it, very big troubles can await you. We will now tell you how to check the engine when buying a car and not lose money.

Indeed, no one will let you look into the inside of someone else’s engine, and that’s normal, there’s nothing you can do about it. However, you should not be upset, because there are certain tricks and secrets that allow you to determine the condition of the engine with a very high degree of accuracy, which allows you to understand whether this car is worth buying or not. Service station specialists and experienced mechanics know all these secrets, and of course, “outbids”, who knows everything about cars if not them. But what to do when such a specialist is not “at hand” or his services are obscenely expensive? Everything is elementary, you just need to know where and what to look at!

Checking the engine when buying a car: useful tips

The first thing you should never tell a car salesperson is that you are essentially a “zero” in cars and engines. Either don’t say anything at all and maintain a mysterious silence, or pretend that you’ve seen so many engines in your lifetime that it’s time to invent them.” perpetual motion machine"... Speak evenly, remaining calm, under no circumstances show your joy from what you saw or heard, you need that very “poker face” - a face devoid of emotions. Watch how the seller answers your questions, verbosity or dodging direct question- a clear sign of the machine’s “dark past”. Pay attention to how the owner of the car reacts to your inspection, allows you to look everywhere or does not allow you to climb somewhere.

Checking the engine: visual inspection of the engine compartment

Engine cleanliness. Ask to open the hood and perform a visual inspection of the engine, guided by certain criteria. If the motor does not work, pay attention to the presence or absence of oil traces. If it gets stuck, you know that somewhere the oil seal or gasket is leaking. It’s difficult to call this a big problem, but if you think logically, an untidy engine and the owner’s untimely response to leaky gaskets indicate that the owner is sloppy or irresponsible. If this is so, then where is the guarantee that maintenance was carried out in a timely manner and that oils and other consumables were changed on time, and this is already a hint of a “dead engine”. Although, again, these are just assumptions; drawing a specific conclusion only based on the cleanliness of the engine is not correct. You can simply determine the condition of the engine without special equipment just by these small nuances, which will ultimately tell you what’s wrong with the engine and what condition it is in.

On the other hand, a perfectly clean engine also does not bode well for you. The fact is that it is not a fact that this clean engine was not covered in oil and other dirt yesterday. Modern chemicals for car and engine washing work wonders, and what was just dirty will radiate crystal cleanliness in 15-20 minutes. In the first case, with a dirty engine that the owner shows you, you at least see what you are buying and initially prepare yourself for the fact that you will have to spend money on repairs. Moreover, sellers of such “tired” motors are, as a rule, ready to give in on price in order for you to change oil seals, gaskets and other seals. Therefore, in this case, it’s a reason to think that perhaps under the guise of cleanliness there is a rather “tired” engine hiding.

Condition of the oil. Open the lid, it should be clean, and the inside of the body, which will be visible from the neck, should not have any deposits or dirt. The oil must be clean, black oil indicates that the oil has been changed a long time ago, so you will have to fork out some money here too. Moreover, it is unknown how long the owner himself drove this “black thing”. Although, on the other hand, when buying a car, this is already a tradition, so you shouldn’t be too upset about the upcoming oil change.

If the oil foams, this may indicate that water is getting into it. Having seen such a phenomenon, further engine check no longer makes any sense. To finally “put an end to” this car, start the engine and watch what happens if splashes fly from the neck, the assumption is correct, they are trying to “smuggle” into you a car with an engine that.

If all of the above are in order, continue checking the engine. Ask the car owner to start the engine, open the hood and listen to the engine, and also observe how it works. I’ll tell you what should not happen: vibration, shaking, knocking and uneven operation; a working engine does not have all this. If the engine is gasoline, but it works like a diesel engine and when you turn on the gas, it “throws up and turns over,” we conclude that there is something wrong with the engine.

In the question of how to check an engine, the exhaust pipe plays one of the key roles

• We continue the inspection with the engine running. We go in from the exhaust side and evaluate the color and density of the exhaust. Something similar happens when you breathe in the cold. The color of the exhaust, as well as its consistency, should be transparent.
• If you can see from the exhaust white smoke in the form of steam, this may indicate a burnt-out gasket or a leak in the cooling jacket.

Importantattagging: If you check the engine in winter, then thick smoke from the exhaust may be the result of banal evaporation (condensation), when hot air enters a cold environment and forms steam. Something similar happens when you breathe fresh frosty air...

• There is black smoke coming out of the exhaust - or from the injector, at least. In the worst case, the engine may have more serious breakdowns, problems with piston group, carbon deposits in the cylinders and the need to decarbonize the engine. In general, in any case, having seen the “blackness”, we thank the owner for the demonstration, wish a successful sale and go without looking back. It’s better not to take risks and look for a car without blackheads.
• Blue smoke means... In this case, everything is the same as with black smoke - we refuse the deal and move on.

Ask for gas and listen to how the muffler works. The work should be smooth, there should be no “choking and shooting”. Carefully place your hand on the exhaust and assess whether there is pressure in your hand; if there is no pressure or it is very slight, it means exhaust system has a burnout.

More details about how to determine engine condition by exhaust color.

Checking the engine when buying a car: the final stage is a test drive

If the engine of the car you like has passed all of the above tests successfully, all that remains for you is to test it in practice, that is, take it for a ride. The very first thing buyers of used cars neglect is a test drive that is too short. Most often, everything is limited to short rides around the car market, and this is often not enough to understand what kind of “beast” is in front of you. If the engine performed well over a short distance, and you are still interested in the car, ask the owner to drive 10 kilometers, promise to compensate for the consumption and time costs. Believe me, it’s better to spend money now than to rack your brains later about where to find a good mechanic. While driving, turn off the music and anything that can drown out the sound of the engine, instead listen to the sound of the engine with the window open and closed, ask the owner to accelerate a little, experiment with sudden acceleration and see how the car behaves. Accelerate the car to a hundred or more (if possible, and does not contradict) and see if there are any jerks, what kind of sound the engine makes, if there are any extraneous noises, knocking and other “left echoes”.

When the test drive is completed, we raise the hood again and see if there are any fresh leaks, and if everything remains as it was. If after the trip you see a hint of leakage, while the engine itself is clean and beautiful, most likely this is the second case when the engine was washed in order to push the car. However, if all other points during the check did not arouse any suspicion in you, then perhaps this place of oil leakage is not a big deal and for a small discount you can agree to buy this car. If the engine behaved inappropriately during a test drive, and after that you saw a lot of oil marks, refuse the purchase, pay the cost of gasoline and continue your search, this is not your car, this car will be bought by someone who needs repairs, not a means of transportation.

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The engine is the main part in a car. This is the heart of the car, which, in fact, makes it go. The engine is expensive. Even contract engines on budget cars can cost hundreds of thousands of rubles, which sometimes exceeds the cost of the used car itself.

The price of the engine is at least 70 percent of the cost of the car, so checking the car's engine is the main step before buying a used car. The check is performed in several ways, and you can find out not only about the condition of the engine, but also its number. With the help of technology it is easy to calculate even the real power of the unit.

There are a number of ways to check the engine of a car before purchasing, and today we will look at them in detail.

Self check

A method for those who understand cars and can determine the condition of the engine themselves. If you decide to check the car engine yourself, then start by opening the hood of the car.

When checking yourself you need:

• Inspect the engine itself for leaks, foreign liquids and deformation of the housing from impact. After this, the presence or absence of some common problems, such as damage from external impact (frontal impact) or oil leaks, will become obvious. If the engine under the hood of a used car is dusty and dirty, then you are in luck: a clean and washed engine does not show any leaks of oil or other liquids. You should inspect the engine for leaks during daylight hours and with a flashlight, in other words, with maximum illumination of the engine compartment. If the engine has recently been washed, then all that remains is to ask a question about oil leaks, counting on the seller’s honesty, otherwise such a defect will be identified over time after purchasing the car, and this will become an unpleasant surprise.

• While you are near the running car, you can check the sound of the car's engine. It should operate smoothly, without changes in sound and without making the sound louder or quieter without pressing the pedals. It is worth remembering that the sound of work diesel engine differs from the sound of a gasoline engine - it “rumbles” like a tractor, while benzie new engine works in one key. The operating sound is also different boxer engines, which are found on some sports cars, for example, on the entire Subaru line - these engines “growl” even at idle.
• Take a ride in a car. In fact, the only way to see the engine “in action” is the ability to independently evaluate the power and response to the pedal, to understand whether everything is working as it should, and whether the car is losing power, whether there are any “dips” when driving, and so on.
• Inspect engine compartment and find out if the car had a frontal impact. If you can see that the front end of the car has been recovering from a severe accident, it is worth considering that this may affect the performance of the engine in the future.
• Connect diagnostic wire- if you have such equipment, you can read the error logs of the on-board computer and find out for sure what problems the engine has. But be careful - sometimes unscrupulous sellers use technology to erase errors from the computer’s memory.

If you have a diagnostic wire and you are not testing too much old foreign car, then connect your laptop through it and read the errors recorded by the on-board computer. IN modern cars the computer reads the errors and saves them in a log, which can always be viewed using the appropriate equipment, which is simple and inexpensive: you only need an OBD cable, a laptop and software for your car brand.

If you are unlucky and come across a “dead” car, the computer will generate a bunch of errors, including engine errors. Next, you simply compare the error numbers with the database and get information about what exactly is wrong, and there can be a huge variety of different defects: from malfunctioning engine mounts, leading to vibrations in the cabin, to missing ignition coils or scuffing in the cylinders.

Checking at a car service center

A surefire way to learn everything about a car and its engine if you don't consider yourself a good expert to inspect it yourself. For a reasonable fee, service specialists will inspect the car completely, consider it a computer (if the car has a diagnostic connector), check all the technical components of the car and even find out whether there has been interference with the memory of the on-board computer, whether the mileage has been changed through it and whether errors have been erased.

It is better to contact either official dealers, or specialized centers that work with one brand of car, or with a narrow circle car brands. As a rule, such services know better all the typical “sores” of cars and are very well versed in the engines presented on the brand’s models.

In this case, you only need to choose a service that has a large number positive feedback and a long work history, pay for the service and wait for the diagnostics to be completed, after which you will be given a work order. Whether you buy a car after that and pay for spare parts and repairs, or hand over the document to the seller and refuse to buy the car, is up to you. This method of checking a car engine is very effective and, as a rule, error-free - if the car is faulty or requires significant investment, specialists will report this based on the diagnostic results.

Advantages of using a car service:

• You will know for sure all the ins and outs of the car and its components: they will tell you whether the car’s mileage was low, whether there were any accidents, what exactly needs to be replaced or repaired at a given time, etc.
• They will issue an order on the spot and tell you where to purchase spare parts and consumables. If you purchase a car right on the spot, you can begin to work on fixing problems without going anywhere.

Disadvantages of working with a car dealership:

• It is necessary to pay for the services of a specialized service; prices vary depending on the region and the qualifications of the servicemen. On average, for services specializing in foreign cars, one standard hour is estimated at 900 to 2000 rubles, diagnostics last an hour and a half, these costs are borne by the potential buyer.
• You will have to spend time on the way to the service, diagnosing the car and then on the way home, you also need to agree on a time that is convenient for all parties: you, the seller and the car service center. Due to the complexity of the organization, the process can take weeks.
• If you choose an inexpensive service “behind garages,” there is a risk that the diagnostics will not be carried out efficiently, which will result in additional expenses for you after purchasing the car.

If you have enough time and are willing to spend several thousand rubles to definitely avoid a mistake, then the service is your option. But be careful when choosing the service itself, saving here is not the best way, it’s better to spend more money for the services of high-level specialists.

The service has come into use recently, but has managed to spread widely and attract a huge number of specialists. Today, anyone can order a car inspection at home; it’s practically the same as a car service, only specialists come to you, and not you to them.

As a rule, the check is carried out automotive experts, working either as mechanics in a car service center or as specialists in the sale of used cars. With a trained eye, they will determine the condition of the car, carry out diagnostics through on-board computer and they will tell you exactly what this car has experienced in the past, and what you should be wary of in the future.

The advantage over the service is that you do not need to go anywhere, and the check will be completed faster, however weak side For field specialists, there remains the lack of sophisticated equipment present in car services, such as a lift. However, if you have a garage with a pit, this problem is leveled out.

• Specialists will come to you with a set of necessary equipment and inspect the car. The work takes from 40 minutes to one hour.
• As a rule, on-site diagnostic specialists have carried out a similar procedure many times already, and with a trained eye they quickly and accurately determine what exactly is wrong with the car. The quality of diagnostics and the “verdict” of field experts are usually very accurate.
• Experts in car selection also negotiate with the seller for you, and you can “bring down” the price of the car you are interested in in good condition. Despite the fact that the price for such services is high, it is usually less than the amount that car selectors manage to negotiate for, and as a result, everyone benefits.

• Lack of some professional equipment present in the car service.
• There is a risk of encountering amateurs who incorrectly assess the condition of the car.

How to check car engine power

If you buy a powerful car with a lot of “horses”, it is probably important for you to know whether the engine has lost its potential over the years.

For such a check, it is necessary to drive the car to a power stand, a special device on which the engine is subjected to maximum load and they find out how much horsepower and torque the unit actually has.

Over the years, cars lose their former properties, engines weaken and lose horsepower, and only with the help of a power stand can you find out how many of them are left, and only then decide whether it is worth buying a car that has lost its former strength over time.

It doesn’t matter whether you check the car yourself or take it to a service center, you can always find out the most basic things about the car’s engine thanks to the Autocode online service. The free report based on the results of the inspection will indicate the type of engine, its power and volume, so you can calculate the tax in advance this car and estimate fuel consumption.

By ordering a full report for 349 rubles, you will learn the entire history of the car: real mileage, the presence of traffic police restrictions, customs history, history of fines, information about compulsory motor liability insurance and those. inspections and much more.

Before buying a car, checking it technical condition or without, it is always better to have a report on it. With its help, you can avoid significant losses and not face deception from the car seller.

If after receiving the report you are unable to travel for inspection, use an on-site inspection. The technician will arrive on site and diagnose the car using special instruments. Just order an Autocode on-site inspection and be confident in your purchase.

All electric motors are classified according to different parameters– power, internal circuit features, and so on. But, as a rule, all the faults in them are typical. Therefore, checking (continuity) electric motors for serviceability, regardless of their modification ( DC, synchronous or asynchronous), varieties, power, purpose, and so on, are carried out according to the same algorithm.

And if the reader understands the meaning of all operations, then he can easily make the simplest diagnostics of any of the electric motors to make sure that it is working.

Before you begin testing the electric motor, it must be disconnected from the drive. Only in this case is an accurate diagnosis of the product guaranteed.

Kinematics check

One of the most common cases is when voltage is applied to the sample, but it “stands” without any signs of “life”. It is not difficult to make sure that the mechanical part of the engine is in good working order - just turn its shaft by hand, a couple of revolutions. If this can be done without any effort, then the product is working properly. A small backlash (sometimes there is one) is quite acceptable for some types of electric motors. But if it is significant, then this should already be considered a deviation from the norm. In this case, there is no need to talk about the complete serviceability of the engine (even in the absence of other defects).

The most likely cause of failure is the exhaustion of the rotor support bearings or their failure due to systematic overheating. Although there may be others - the ingress of foreign fractions (in other words, dirt and dust), wear of the brushes. It is enough to partially disassemble the electric motor to determine what is preventing the free rotation of the shaft.

Checking the supply voltage

If mechanical part engine is working properly, then you should proceed to testing the entire electrical diagram. The rating of the supplied voltage must correspond to the value specified in the electric motor passport. This is what you need to verify by taking measurements at its terminals (terminals). To do this, you just need to remove the cover from the junction box. Why there?

Almost no electric motor is connected directly to the power source. There are always intermediate “links” in the chain. Even in the most the simplest scheme there is at least 1 element - a button (toggle switch, AB or something similar). The cable that connects the electric motor to the power source cannot be excluded. Perhaps the product itself is normal, and does not start for a completely different reason (breakage of the circuit breaker, MP, break in the supply wire).

In this case, it is not advisable to use a household probe (indicator). It will not show the voltage rating; only the presence/absence of it. Therefore, you only need to work with a measuring device. For example, a multimeter.

If the test shows that voltage is supplied and it complies with the standard, then the conclusion is clear - there is a malfunction in the electric motor.

External inspection

You need to start by literally smelling the electric motor, as strange as it may seem. The simplest and effective way initial determination of its malfunction. In most cases, if there is a violation in the circuit, the temperature inside the case increases, which leads to partial melting of the compound. And this is always accompanied by a characteristic smell.

Darkening of the paint on the electric motor, especially on a separate segment, and the appearance of dark sagging in the areas where the covers are attached to the ends of the housing are a sure sign of excessive heating.

After removing the “caps,” you should inspect the insides of the electric motor from all sides. The melting of the compound will be immediately noticeable. If it “drips” strongly enough, then you will definitely have to repair the product - it cannot be considered completely serviceable.

Checking the electrical part of the engine

Checking the brushes

This applies to collector-type models. The fact that they are in place does not mean that the electric motor is working properly. These replaceable contacts have a certain wear limit, and its real value can be visually assessed by their length. As a rule, acceptable production is if the “height” of the brush is at least 10 mm. Although it should be clarified for a specific product. But in any case, if you suspect increased wear, it is better to replace them immediately.

Checking contact groups

There are lamellas on the rotor. Not only damage to any of them or peeling, but even a deep scratch is a sign of a malfunction. Perhaps the electric motor will work for some time, but how long and how effectively is a big question.

Checking the windings

To do this, they are excluded from the scheme. The technique depends on the type of electric motor. The leads can be unsoldered or “thrown away” by unscrewing the fixing nuts. Otherwise, it is impossible to test them for integrity. The windings of the electric motor are connected in a common circuit (“star” or “delta”), and testing them in the initial state is pointless - they will all “ring”. Even if there is a break in the case of .

For the integrity of the windings

In fact, each of them is a wire laid accordingly. They are all connected in a circuit. Therefore, there should be only one “pair” of conclusions. So you need to take any of them (after removing all the jumpers) and, one by one, using a multimeter, “ring” with the others. If, when checking a specific output, the device always shows ∞ (when measuring resistance), then there is an internal break in this stator winding. Definitely for renovation.

On short circuit

The technique is identical, and there is no point in repeating the test. This is assessed immediately, in parallel. You just need to take into account that if any pin “rings” with more than one wire, this means that between the windings - short circuit. The same thing - only to the workshop.

For a breakdown

Basically the same. The only difference is that when checking the insulation of conductors, one tester probe is constantly on the motor housing (you must first clean a small “patch” of paint), and the second one is connected in series to all terminals, one by one. If at least once the device shows zero resistance, this means that this conductor is short-circuited. And in this case, repairs cannot be avoided.

Sometimes the battery voltage of the multimeter is not enough. An ohmmeter is more suitable for such tests. But to do this, you need, firstly, to check the passport data of the electric motor (according to the permissible insulation test voltage), and secondly, to select a device of the appropriate class. There is no need to blindly follow the recommendations for carrying out this kind of diagnostics for serviceability, otherwise it is easy to ruin the windings.

What to consider when checking the engine

• Checking with a “control” (light bulb + battery) will not allow you to test the engine in full. Therefore, it is impossible to clearly judge its serviceability using this method.

• There is one more malfunction, although it is quite rare - an interturn short circuit. It can only be determined using a special device. If, after all the checks carried out, the electric motor does not start or does not work correctly, then further testing should be entrusted to a professional in a specialized workshop. Checking the winding resistance values ​​(there are such recommendations) is a waste of time. The tester may not show deviations of 1 - 2 ohms (it is worth taking into account the permissible error in measurements, depending on the class of the device).

• When choosing service center(for further repairs) you should pay attention to the prices. Rewinding an electric motor is quite expensive. And if they ask for little for this service, there is something to think about. There are several options - insufficient qualifications of personnel, a simplified procedure, the use of low-quality compound. But in any case, after rewinding, the engine will not last long.

And one last thing. You need to calculate what is more profitable - restoring the product or purchasing a new one. This depends on the specifics of its operation, the intensity of use, and the need for it at some point in time (urgent work, for example). Practice shows that after an electric motor has been in a workshop, in “the wrong hands,” it will not work for more than six months. Verified.

Well, it’s up to you, dear reader, to decide what to do. At least carry out simple checks yourself electric motor you will be able to check for correctness.

No one has ever sold a car because it drives very well or is very cheap to maintain. You should always keep this in mind when looking at used cars, no matter how much you might like it from afar. However, used does not always mean bad; in fact, even very old cars can last a long time if they are well looked after. Before you do reach into your wallet, you'll definitely want to think things through and make sure that you never make a purchase that you'll soon regret. The first and most important thing you should pay attention to is the engine.

Steps

Part 1

Start inspecting your car

Check the car for stains, drips and dirt underneath. Before you take a quick look at the car through the window, get down on one knee and check the bottom of the car for stains, drops or dirt. If they are there, try to find out their age, are they old oil marks or fresh stains? Perhaps there is dirt there that is still draining?

Determine what specific liquid formed the puddle. Puddles may also be due to oil leaking from the tube brake system, cooling systems, transmission systems, power steering or even windshield wiper fluid. If you find a wet spot, you may want to poke your finger into it.

• The reddish liquid is probably transmission fluid transmission boxes. Black fluid is usually just an indication of old oil. Caramel is the color of new oil, or old power steering oil, or old brake fluid. The green or orange liquid is probably refrigerant.
• Be aware of clear puddles, which could simply be water from rain, the engine being washed, or the air conditioning recently running. Once you test the stain with your fingertip, you will be able to tell whether it is oil or water. If the stain looks like both, look around and pay more attention to the next steps.

1. Check the chassis. Sellers will often attach a flexible hose to the car they want to sell, and some will even try to clean the engine bay, but generally the underside of the car will be inspected for any puddles or lack thereof; how clean the parts are. You may be able to ignore simple dirt, and may even be willing to see a certain amount of road grime and oil stains (It's a car, after all), but you'll want to inspect the car for fluid stains that have recently developed and haven't been removed.

   • Follow up on wet spots, dark spots and oil residue by turning special attention to the oil pan and any seams or gaskets you may notice. It’s better to have leftover dirt that appeared as a result of fixing problems in the car than to soon have to repair the car because it has never been repaired.
   • However, new, wet dirt or oil could mean some trouble, so take what you see into account. Don't hesitate and point out imperfections (perhaps use a paper towel) to clearly see how dirty, wet, slippery or caked the stain may be.

2. Decide whether oil leakage is a real problem for you. If you do see drops or traces of wet dirt or grease, try to figure out where they are coming from. A leak is reason enough to look at another car on the lot, but it's up to you to decide whether it's enough of a problem to prevent you from purchasing the car.

   • Some people will happily add oil to replenish the level in the oil sump and can safely drive for many years without serious consequences or inconvenience. Some leaks are minor, so the oil can last for many months, while in some cars the problem gets worse and can soon lead to serious damage.
   • If nothing is clearly leaking, dripping, or hardened by dirt, you can reassure yourself. With a lot of possible problems The engine can only be repaired if there are no visible fluid leaks.

   Part 2

   Inspect the engine

   1. Open the hood and take note of any odors coming from the engine. Before you start the engine, ask the dealer to open the hood for you so you can look at the engine and take note of any smells.

      • A healthy, shiny new engine should smell like rubber and plastic with just a hint of gas or oil. At best, you will smell the natural fumes emanating from belts, hoses and various plastic parts. This is called degassing and is absolutely normal process. The engine compartment smell should not be too different from the smell of new tires.
      • You can definitely smell it in a used car. oils. This is normal as long as the smell is easy for you to tolerate and is not something you need to be afraid of. You may also smell gas. Its whiff is considered completely normal, and in older cars with carburetors, even a strong whiff of gas fumes is acceptable. However, if you feel too much gas, it may be leaking into the fuel system and may be a cause for concern.
      • You can also smell turpentine, which is essentially the smell of bad, old gas. This smell could mean the car has just been sitting and not driven for a while. You need to ask your dealer if there is fresh gas in the gas tank and how long the car has been sitting. This is usually not big problem, however, stagnant gas can cause rust in the gas tank.
      • You can also smell a very sweet smell. antifreeze. It can occur due to leaks, but you should check if there are any leaks in the cooling system. On a cold engine, they can form white to greenish spots, a sign that the coolant has evaporated. A strong, pungent odor may also be present, so special attention must be paid to the battery to some extent.

   2. Take a close look at your engine compartment and its contents. Look at the engine. Do you see the paint? Bare metal? Grease stains? Dirt? Remember, it's good that you saw dirt or even cobwebs. Dealers and salespeople will clean the engine bay frequently to keep it looking good and in stock. This does improve the appearance of the car, but it can hide the fact of leaks and even distract your attention from obvious flaws.

      • An engine covered in dirt, on the other hand, will show you where there may be an oil or gas leak, what part has been rebuilt or replaced (clean spots), and will also let you know that the car has been running. This means that the machine has at least recently been running. Cobwebs indicate that this car has not been driven for a while, this may mean nothing or may mean additional measures will be taken down the road.
      • An engine covered in greasy, hardened dirt is both bad and good. This indicates a leak, but at least you will be able to locate the source of the leak based on the dirt marks. If it's just a layer of sticky dirt and blackened goo, it might be time to change the gaskets or even have them repaired completely.
      • However, this does not mean at all that the engine is running poorly and that you will not be able to drive the car for a long time before encountering a problem. real problems in your car. A fuel leak will usually form an obvious spot on an already dirty engine, but it's usually very difficult to spot, so you'll have to use your intuition to figure out if there's actually a leak going on.

   3. Check the fuel level. At this point, you will come across a device called the dipstick for checking the oil level. Pull it, clean it, put it back, pull it again. Is there oil? Fine. At this stage, the oil level in the canister may be low; it will be displayed as long as there is any oil there. Most cars do not display the correct oil levels while they are parked. As soon as you turn on the ignition of the car and start to warm it up, the oil level will begin to display correctly.

      Inspect belts and hoses. Ask your dealer when the vehicle's belts and hoses were last changed. Cracks in the rubber most likely mean that the part needs to be replaced soon. Well cleaned, even old, frayed belts and hoses can look good, so don't hesitate to feel around in the engine bay, squeeze the hoses, and feel the belts.

      • If the belts are fake, just remember that they will need to be replaced. Most dealers will appreciate these shortcomings, but you don't have to work with a dealer, and these things are sometimes overlooked.
      • Mainly, you just have to make sure that the car has belts. Some cars won't start at all without them, but many have second belts that push out the charge and keep your air conditioning and power steering running, so make sure every pulley you see has either a belt attached to it or good reason not to have it.
      • Check the car for soft cooling system hoses, which more clearly demonstrate the service life of the car than their appearance. Check the areas where the hoses connect and look for signs of fuel leaks. These leak spots appear when engines warm up, so there won't be a leak, and a heavy dose of engine cleaner can make them disappear. So you really should check carefully to see if there is at least a trace of heating oil, not like the traces of the descaling that you sometimes have to remove from your teapot.

   4. Inspect the battery and battery terminals. Like the engine, batteries and their cables can be cleaned well, but they still don't perform well. It's not at all surprising for used cars that their batteries self-discharge, meaning they go dead on their own, so don't be discouraged if your car needs to be jump-started at some point.

      Ask about air filters. If you buy a car from a dealer, the air filters should be clean and new. If you're just buying from a person, they may be old, dirty, and need to be replaced soon.

      • If you need to change air filters, it seems that most (if not all) of the filters (such as oil, gas, oil filter Gearbox) must also be replaced.
      • Ask the seller if you are unsure or do not want to inspect air filter yourself.

   5. Make sure that the turbogenerator is not rusty and is well secured. If the car has charger for a turbogenerator, this is the very moment that you will not be able to diagnose while the car is driving. However, you can at least check it for leaks and make sure it is secure and not rusted.

      Step back and look at the engine bay as a whole. Step back and take a good look at the engine bay and its various parts. Each model has a different setup method - it can be complex or simple, ordinary.

      • Look for loose wires and hoses. Look for small details that you may not understand, but notice open holes or possibly missing parts.
      • Newer machines are more difficult to select due to the fact that they are equipped with electronics (look for scorching and other obvious damage) and complex vacuum systems.
      • It’s easier with old cars; they turn a blind eye to a lot of things, because they understand that the car is used. Discuss any changes or modifications your seller has made.

   Part 3

   Do a final check

   1. Look at the back of your car's hood. Stop and take a close look at the underside of the hood of your used car. There are hints there if the information on the indicators is not always clear. What you want to see is a clean (and again, road grime is not a problem) and intact gasket, which should dampen machine noise and also act as a fire retardant.

      Examine the exhaust pipe. Exhaust gas leakage is one of the problems that can lead to engine fire. You may have had a hard time inspecting the exhaust manifold in the engine bay, but it should be easy enough for you to check the exhaust pipe. The exhaust tip should be ash gray on the inside.

      Check the car to see if it starts easily. Thus, you have looked, felt, touched the car, and nothing has scared you away until now, therefore, there is nothing left to do but start the car and feel it while driving. These three things can happen:

      • It will start and drive first time.
      • A minute will pass before it starts.
      • He won't go at all.

   2. Find out why the car won't start. Have you turned the key and nothing happened? Nothing more than lighting a lamp instrument panel? Check the battery and wiring diagram. Pay special attention to the clamps and make sure the cables are tied tightly and not rusted. Again, a little soda will help clean them and keep them in good contact.

   3. Take a look at your spark plug wires. If still nothing happens, make sure the spark plug wires are secure. If you find one is loose, secure it and try starting the car again.

      • Still no results? You will most likely need to remove the spark plugs and clean them. If the car has a carburetor, you can also try dumping some gas directly into the venturi (the part where the air enters).
      • This whole process sometimes needs to be repeated once the car starts running and you can park and have more time. On that note, if you have a car that has been sitting for a long time and you want to sell it, start it from time to time, this way you will avoid problems and can easily start it when you need it.

   4. Listen to the sound of the engine when you start it. Once this happens, drive out and let your vehicle idle while you re-inspect the engine bay for any leaks or smoking. Listen for wheezing, knocking, clicking, or other terrible noises. Puffing for gas vapors (will be slightly audible), or heating (may also be observed). Here's some thing you might hear and suggestions as to what it might mean:

      • "TickTickTickTickTick" noise that increases with acceleration as you accelerate. Sticky lifters, flat cams, loose valves, and even a loose belt can cause this. If this noise goes away after you add oil or after you warm up the car, the problem is in the lifter. Although this is not a reason to panic, it is worth paying attention to in the future.
      • The "NockNockNockNock" noise that increases in frequency when you accelerate is called engine knock. This could be bad news for you and could mean you should run away from that particular car (unless it's a diesel, as that's the only one that sounds like that naturally).
      • Squealing, creaking, piercing sound? This is usually a belt or belts, and sometimes the pulleys that they include. Plan to change the belt. If the noise continues after replacing the belt, then you will need to figure out which pulley. Alternators and air conditioning pumps can make this noise as well, or they may just make noise when cleaning. Be aware of these sounds, but unless they really start to bother you, don't worry.
      • Louder knocking noise that does not correspond to engine speed, but may occur when accelerating or at low speeds idle speed, may indicate that the engine or transmission mount needs to be replaced. Not right away, but sooner or later you will want to repair it all.

   5. Take the car for a test drive. Do you think everything is fine? Close the hood, and if you're taking the car for a test drive, take the car straight to your local auto parts store and ask them to check the codes for other little things you might have missed. This only applies to cars from the 80s and cars produced later. This will usually be helpful if there is a check engine light after you start it.

      • Your mechanic can help you get out of the difficult situation of your car breaking down. You've done pretty much everything you need to do to make sure your engine is more or less normal to get you to the shop. As you drive, pay attention to any problems such as lack of power, any strange jerking or any other kind of strange behavior of the car on the road.
      • A car computer code reader can help you with some parts so you can start the process of replacing parts and electronics and getting the car running properly. Your local auto parts dealer has a device that can check your car's machine codes, and most will do it for free if they have the time. If someone tries to take money from you for technical inspection, go to another place.
      • You may need some tweaking or even complete renovation. If you have done it before this time, then you have a working engine. Congratulations. Your fuel levels are high, your battery is charged, there's good gas in the tank, and you're off. See how the car feels on the road - after all, that's what matters most.
   • Most of these instructions are for older machines. Many latest models connect to computer diagnostics, although the computer will not be able to detect many possible problems

Buying a used car is at your own risk. A car is a device consisting of many vital and interconnected parts. A breakdown of one of them can happen unexpectedly, and the tricky part is that it may not be immediately noticed and reacted in time. In the meantime, an existing breakdown can trigger the breakdown of other parts that depend on it. And so the car becomes less and less serviceable - it acts up and is capricious.

The heart of any car is its engine. It is he who bears the burden of ensuring the life of the “iron horse”. And it is the engine that most often suffers from breakdowns.

But when buying a used car, you should understand that its “insides” are perfect condition they will not, no matter how deceptive his representative appearance. Many drivers claim that some time after the purchase, breakdowns and countless repairs begin, the history of which sometimes lasts quite a long time. But there are also exceptions. Therefore, before purchasing a car, it is worth checking its engine.

Algorithm of actions when checking an engine...

1. Look under the hood. The appearance of the engine should give itself away. A neat appearance will indicate that the engine has been looked after and monitored for its technical serviceability. Dirt and oil stains on the engine should lead to disappointing conclusions. The likelihood that the engine was specially cleaned up in order to better present it and give it a more marketable appearance is small, but still exists. Most often, an unscrupulous seller will not bother himself with unnecessary actions. Therefore, you need to pay attention not only to the appearance, but also to the quality of the engine.

2. We evaluate the bolts and nuts. The edges and threads must not be torn off. It is by this external factor that one can judge the quantity and quality of repairs to which the engine has been subjected. Moreover, engine repairs were carried out, apparently, by amateurs or self-taught people. One can only guess what they repaired there. The death of such an engine is a matter of time.

3. Checking the spark plugs. For this purpose, one candle, unscrewed from the car, will do. The presence of a black coating on it should lead to the appropriate conclusions. This means that oil gets into the combustion chambers and the caps become faulty. You can check the caps by the color of the smoke from the exhaust manifold. To do this, you need to start and warm up the car. If the smoke comes out black, then it’s time for the caps to retire long ago.

4. Exhaust gases. When the engine is cold started, it is possible to diagnose the integrity of the gasket. To do this, you need to place your hand under the exhaust pipe for a few seconds, and then smell your palm. If it smells like antifreeze, this indicates that antifreeze is already entering the combustion chamber, which means that the gasket is no longer in good condition as before.

If from exhaust pipe rich white smoke is coming out, this indicates that coolant is entering the combustion chambers. This is also not very good. The fact that the piston system is faulty is indicated by bluish smoke. A “healthy” engine will produce clear smoke or light gray. Any other colors of the rainbow will only indicate serious problems with the engine, so the decision to purchase such a car is up to you.

5. Starting the engine. This is one of the most the right ways checking the serviceability and quality of the engine. The engine should start within a couple of seconds. However, its launch should not be accompanied by extraneous noise, and even more so - mechanical sound.

6. Warming up the engine. Another sign of engine malfunction may be the fact that it does not warm up to the optimal temperature for driving. This in itself is not good, but to understand whether the cause is a problem in the engine, you need to look at the coolant level. If it falls and air bubbles form on it, this indicates a problem with the engine - one of the cylinders is cracked. Naturally, the engine is faulty, which means driving such a car is putting yourself at risk.

Perhaps these are the main ways to quickly check the engine for malfunctions and problems in its operation. Buying a car with a faulty engine is a voluntary decision. For some, this will give them the opportunity to reduce the price of the car and repair the engine on their own, using the saved money.

So, disadvantages can also be turned into advantages. At least now you know how to check the engine when purchasing. It is also worth remembering that used cars will always have some minor (or even not so minor) faults. If you want an absolutely serviceable car, then it is better to save some money and buy a brand new car from official dealer. It, of course, may also have faults, but they must be repaired under warranty.