It is worth noting that Honda HR-V(Honda HRV) with left-hand drive (officially sold on Russian market) has a letter body index GH4. That is, left-hand drive Honda HR-Vs are equipped with a modification of the variator under the letter index META. However, in the eastern part of the Russian Federation there are a large number of “right-hand drive” Honda HR-V cars (imported from the domestic Japanese market), and they have different body designations and, accordingly, such cars may have a CVT in the SETA, SENA, MENA or META modification .

A logical question arises regarding the “interchangeability” of these variators. According to the experience of many owners of Honda HR-V cars (Honda HRV), these CVTs “...differ in external fastenings, included or absent speedometer cable, speed sensor, etc. - all this can be easily rearranged from its variator to another...”

In fact, these are almost the “oldest” Honda CVTs. The only older ones are the Honda M4VA series (S4VA, S4PA, S4MA), which was installed on the Honda Civic. The “oldest” CVTs are already 19 years old and naturally many of them have high mileage. Despite the large number of these used CVTs on sale (see the same Avito auction), these used CVTs also have an equally high mileage and are often in a “dead state.” There are many reviews on the Internet from owners of Honda HR-V cars (Honda HRV), who bought a used CVT (META) and within a month or two again encountered transmission problems.

It is for this reason - if you want to keep the Honda HR-V car “for yourself” (not for sale) and are planning to this car drive for a couple of years, then it is economically profitable to “repair” the META series variator (aka SETA / SENA / MENA), since spare parts for these variators are quite low.

Compare for yourself. The same seemingly “expensive” cones for this variator (which nevertheless extremely rarely fail) cost only about 10,000 rubles (for the primary cone) and 12,000 rubles for the secondary cone. This is if you buy spare parts in the Russian Federation. If you order these items from abroad from various online stores (you have time for this), then the cones will cost only $120 - $130.

As an example, compare with the cost of cones for the most popular variator in the world J atco JF011e(Qashqai, Teana, Lancer, etc.), for which each cone costs about 40,000 rubles. That is, this is a clear indicator that Honda META (SETA / SENA / MENA) CVTs are among the cheapest to repair precisely because of their fairly low cost original spare parts for these variators.

Frequent (common) problems with CVTsMETA (SETA (SENA/MENA) onHonda HR-V (Honda HRV)

Multimalik variators from Honda models (series) META (SETA / SENA / MENA) usually have exactly the same problems as variators of the Honda M4VA series (S4VA, S4PA, S4MA), on the basis of which the META series was developed.

• Problems with starting (jerk, floating speed at D+brake) - can be treated by replacing the starter pack valve. Order number 27600-P4V-003 (the price of this valve is about 12,000 rubles). At advanced cases change the entire starter package.
• The problem with speed floating during acceleration has 2 solutions (essentially, if one doesn’t help, then use the second):
  1) Valve replacement gear ratio— order number 27500-P4V-003 (price about 10,000 rubles).
  2) Replacing the seals on the input shaft - there are 3 seals. Requires removal and partial disassembly of the box. It is advisable to use the original gasket repair kit - it contains everything you need.
• Problem with reverse gear - (for example, it disappeared once and for all). Reason: broken brake lugs reverse. It can be treated by disassembling the variator and welding. In this case, the variator needs to be disassembled almost completely. Additionally, the brake piston rubber bands are changed. reverse gear– they can break at any moment and the reverse gear disappears.

To prevent further reverse damage, it is better to change the reverse clutches at the same time - there are 2 of them on META (SETA / SENA / MENA) CVTs.

In any case, always initially before repairing the variator - Competent and high-quality diagnostics from those who know this META variator (SETA / SENA / MENA) or at least repaired the earlier series of M4VA variators (S4VA, S4PA, S4MA).

Where to repair a variatorMETA (SETA (SENA/MENA) onHonda HR-V (Honda HRV) ?

If your CVT breaks down, we recommend that you approach the choice of a car service very competently and carefully to repair the CVT on a Honda HR-V. There are several reasons to be careful. Firstly, this META (SETA / SENA / MENA) variator is not very common (installed only on the Honda HR-V (Honda HRV)) and thus most car services have never encountered the repair of this transmission model (although they will naturally assure you over the phone in reverse). That is, this means that this car service has neither new nor used spare parts for this variator. This means that they will either study for you or at this car service center, or you will wait a long time (sometimes for weeks) for the delivery of spare parts (this is your temporary loss, at a minimum). In addition, even if the car service is competent, but has never previously encountered the repair of a META (SETA / SENA / MENA) variator, then the employees of this service will have a natural desire to insure against the consequences of poor-quality repairs and they will recommend that you change as many positions as possible in this variator (sometimes saying quite “living details”). Just in case. And this entails an increase in your final bill.

Secondly, on the same Internet there are many scammers who claim that they will repair your CVT, but in fact the repair will be of poor quality (they will charge you cash for replacing parts, but in fact, most of them will leave you the old ones, in the hope that it will be revealed after warranty period). As a striking example, on the website of car owners Drive2.ru there is real review one Honda owner HR-V (Honda HRV), who contacted one of the specialized car services in Moscow, namely JapService Moscow (https://japservice.ru) from Honda-Club.ru regarding the repair of the META variator (SETA / SENA / MENA). The repair was very expensive and of poor quality (in fact, no one replaced the spare parts in the variator), the variator broke down again and the owner of the Honda was forced to go to court. Yes, as a result, the owner of the Honda HR-V won this court case and then recovered money from this car service. But several months were spent in litigation. Here is the link below for this legal epic from the words of the owner of a Honda HR-V (Honda HRV) specifically regarding the META variator -

After this, a logical question arises - where to reliably and efficiently repair the META (SETA / SENA / MENA) variator on a Honda HR-V and not end up with scammers? To do this, you need to share the positive experience of proven, honest masters of these CVTs and specialized companies. Write your experience in the comments to the article and we will publish it.

Oil for variator Honda SETA (SENA / MENA / META)

Since these CVTs were developed in the mid-90s of the last century, the Honda company developed these CVTs for the transmission fluids that existed then at the date of development. Therefore, the manufacturer initially specified the oil for these CVTs as ATF-Z1. However, later (in the early 2000s) more modern oil HMMF (original number 08260-99904), which is more suitable for these CVTs in terms of its characteristics. This is naturally the original oil (the so-called Genuine Honda CVT Fluid). Some oil manufacturers produce their own oils (transmission fluids) that meet the Genuine Honda CVT Fluid specifications. For example, Eneos claims that their ENEOS Import CVT Fluid MODEL H oil fully meets the specifications original oil Genuine Honda CVT Fluid and can be used in these SETA CVTs (SENA / MENA / META).

Changing the oil in the SETA (SENA / MENA / META) variator on a carHonda HR-V (Honda HRV).

In order to efficiently and correctly change the oil in the SETA (SENA / MENA / META) variator in a Honda HR-V (Honda HRV), the following spare parts and consumables are needed:

• 08260-99904 - Fluid for variator HMMF (4 l.) (for partial replacement, more than 4 liters are needed to complete more)
• 25450-P4V-013 - Filter fine cleaning(cylinder.)
• 91305-PN4-003 - O-ring cylinder. filter (bottom)
• 91331-P4V-003 - O-ring cylinder. filter (top)
• 25420-PET-003 - Coarse filter (flat)
• 91327-P4V-003 - Flat filter O-ring
• 90471-PX4-000 - Drain plug washer (this may be numbered 90471-PX4-000).21814-P4V-000 - Pan gasket

Unscrew the pan and remove it (10 bolts) -

The oil filter (indicated by the arrow) is screwed on with 4 x 10 bolts (remove) –

We remove the old pan gasket, take out the fine filter from the pan (replace with a new one) and take out the magnets, after which we clean the magnets from chips -

We wash the pan from dirt and deposits and insert it into it new filter fine cleaning. We insert magnets into the new coarse filter. Afterwards the coarse filter is screwed on:

Screw the tray back. Tighten the drain bolt. We lower the car onto a flat surface. Fill with oil (HMMF or equivalent). We look at the level on the dipstick.

If you want to replace without replacing filters, then this is done simply - unscrew the drain bolt, drain the old oil, screw it into place and fill in new oil. However, if the mileage on the car is high, then the recommendation is to change the oil in the variator by removing the pan and replacing the filters.

Checking the fluid level ( transmission oil) in the variatorSETA (SENA / MENA / META) on Honda HR-V (Honda HRV)

Level transmission fluid(oil) in SETA variators (SENA / MENA / META) is checked exclusively on a warm variator (it is advisable to drive 10-15 km before this) in the interval of 1 - 1.5 minutes after stopping the engine on a flat surface. That is, you drive 15 km, stop on a flat surface, turn off the engine, wait a minute, pull out the dipstick and look at the level between the marks. Accordingly, after this you add or pump out the liquid.

CVT calibrationMETA (SETA / SENA / MENA) onHonda HR-V (Honda HRV)

CVT META (SETA / SENA / MENA) – not adaptive. Thus, calibration is carried out not so much of the variator as of the starting clutch, so that the car starts and stops without jerking. Doing this calibration is necessary ONLY WHEN REPLACING the following items listed below:

1. PCM module (power train control module);
2. Gearbox assemblies;
3. Starting clutch assembly;
4. Lower valve box assembly;
5. After assembling or repairing the engine (which is not stated).

The procedure for calibrating the starting clutch on this META variator (SETA / SENA / MENA):

Option #1

1. Switch to position D.
2. Turn off all electrical consumers (with the exception of headlights).
3. Drive the car on a flat road.
4. Accelerate to a speed of 60 km/h, then release the accelerator pedal and slow down for 5 seconds without pressing the brake pedal!
5. If the engine stalls when starting from a stop or has trouble shifting, repeat the recalibration.

Option No. 2

1. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature(the radiator fan will turn on).

Connect the dealer scanner to the diagnostic connector, reset the variator settings through the scanner to Uncomplete mode, then accelerate, coast, etc. as described above (in option 1). Until the scanner displays “Complete”.

Left: HMMF (Japanese domestic market). Right: CVTF (US market).

There is no “complete replacement” or “complete analogue” of HMMF special fluid other than Honda CVTF special fluid. Honda did not transfer production rights to any company, neither Castrol, nor Mobil, nor Yokki. The can of these fluids may say that they “meet Honda requirements,” but they do not have a RECOMMENDATION for use in Honda components.

Please pay special attention to this as the HMMF (CVTF) has been specifically designed for the unique Honda Multi Matic (HMM) system with the already mentioned friction discs. The history of the origin of HMMF is not a secret - it is a continuation of the development of ATF Z1, which, as we already know, is the successor to the “classic” Dexron II. On early Honda CVTs (Civic cars in the EK3, HR-V, Integra SJ body), ATF Z1 is even written on the gearbox dipsticks, but this mark is the same story as with the Dexron II inscription on automatic transmissions before 1996. The use of ATF Z1 is permissible on CVTs up to 2000, but for a short time. On later cars, driving on ATF Z1 is generally unacceptable.

The reason for this limitation lies in chemical properties HMMF (CVTF) and fundamental difference Honda CVT from all other similar designs. We have already talked about the feature of HMM, but what is so special about HMMF (CVTF)?

The fact is that the unique composition of HMMF (CVTF) contains, in addition to a package of cooling additives, also special material, allowing the fluid to balance in a working variator between lubricating and friction-increasing parameters! That is, the same liquid must simultaneously act as a heat sink, lubricant, and friction amplifier between the belt and pulley to avoid slippage. Other liquids are simply not capable of this!

Now about the replacement period. It should be remembered that aging of HMMF fluid leads to a decrease in its ability, which ultimately leads to belt slippage, and so on. Only fresh fluid can maintain all the necessary parameters at normal levels, so under no circumstances should you delay replacing it.

Determining the aging of HMMF (CVTF) “by eye” is also unrealistic, as in the case of ATF Z1. If the “master” says that the liquid is still clean and transparent and does not need to be replaced, then he is not a professional. Only an expensive analysis using special equipment, the cost of which can exceed all reasonable limits, can tell you about the quality of the liquid. If you doubt the quality of the fluid poured into your Honda's variator, it is better, easier and cheaper to change it.

Large variable speed filter installed under the pan.

To replace HMMF you will only need about five liters of fluid, and not twelve, as they call it at some service stations. In principle, flushing is not even contraindicated for the first Honda CVTs, since when replacing the fluid it is necessary to change two filters installed in the box - one in the pan (HR-V) or near the radiator (Civic EU, the second on the CVT body itself. But better flushing do not apply - partial replacement even in this case will be more correct. Also, you may need a variator pan gasket, although it is made of cardboard.

Detailed process of replacing special fluid in Honda CVTs with a pan.

On later variators (Fit), there is no pan, and the replacement process is reduced to a partial oil change, as is the case with a conventional automatic transmission. Some models may have an additional remote filter, similar to the one found on the Civic, or, conversely, located in the box housing.

In all cases, the amount of oil drained and filled will be approximately the same - from 3.8 (FIT) to 4.6 liters (HR-V). It is always better to take a little more oil, since having it is always more convenient than not having it. If for Honda Fit A standard Japanese can of HMMF is enough, then for all other CVTs you will have to look for another additional liter. Although it won't be superfluous. Many people forget, for example, that when removing drives to replace boots, a small amount of oil is drained, which must be restored after the operation is completed. That's when the remaining oil will come in handy.

To replace 85-90% of the fluid in a heavily worn variator, you, as in the case of an automatic transmission, will have to repeat the oil change operation after 200-300 km, however, most often this is not required. After the first replacement, it becomes clear whether the variator is alive, or whether all procedures are already too late.

If, nevertheless, the CVT cannot be helped by replacing the fluid, all that remains is to repair it, and here one can only sympathize with the owner of the variator. The problem is that spare parts for the CVT unit are not available for sale in any form other than the assembled unit. For the cost, the node sometimes comes out more expensive than the cost the entire car if it was purchased second hand. There are precedents when it was possible to find the actual belt, with the replacement of which all problems disappear, but this exception, one might say, was just lucky.

So Russian masters are absolutely right when they say that the variator, in the event of a breakdown, is absolutely beyond repair. There are simply no spare parts for it. Many, if faced with such a problem, tend to replace the entire box with a contract one, i.e. used. Unfortunately, unlike a conventional automatic transmission, where replacement is acceptable because its service life is much longer, in the case of a CVT it turns out to be a real lottery. There is a chance of winning, but in this case you will simply receive a working car, which is what you actually paid money for. A loss will mean a definite loss of funds - one installation of a checkpoint costs a lot of money, and after a month the slippage will begin again.

It’s also worth mentioning which brands of Honda have a CVT. Often, although not always, it is found on Civics in the EK3, EU1, ES1 body, on all HR-Vs, except with manual transmission, on almost all Fit (Jazz).

There are particularly interesting solutions that are truly exclusive. Honda's court tuning studio, Mugen, sometimes dabbles in modifications to the Honda Fit. So among its products there is a unique Fit Mugen, with a turbocharged (!!) L15A engine and all on the same CVT. Let's hope that the life of the variator on this “bullet” will be as long as it looks impressive, and “shoots” even more impressively!

In general, any car after 1998 with an engine capacity of up to 1600 cc may well have a CVT on board. On cars with large volumes, CVTs are not installed for the same reason - the complexity of combination and unreliability of the unit. However, technology does not stand still. An exception to this rule is the Honda Odyssey - a minivan with an engine capacity of 2400 cc, in the RB1 body, except for the Absolute (and also M) configuration. On these large cars With powerful motor In addition to the above-mentioned configuration, there is a CVT gearbox.

Summarizing the conversation about the variator, it is necessary to emphasize the following - the variator gearbox is a reliable, promising unit that still requires some care and attention. Fluid replacement, always with filters (if available), should be done regularly, every 35,000 - 40,000 km.
If filters are not available, a partial replacement is performed, as is the case with a conventional automatic transmission. Absolutely not recommended if you have a CVT sudden accelerations, braking, as well as long-term movements at speeds of more than 120 km/h.

*Second generation Honda CVTs include transmissions installed on Honda cars Accord (variables since 2013) and Honda Fit (variables since 2015). In this case, another one is used technical fluid- HCF-2.

To determine the required type of fluid used in the automatic transmission of your car, we recommend that you carefully study the vehicle’s operating instructions before repair work.

Honda Vodam.ru

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In order to change the special fluid in a Honda variator, you will need a Honda car with a variator requiring fluid replacement, the special fluid itself (HMMF or CVTF) in the amount of 4+ liters (HMMF can be enough and exactly one can, since the Japanese prudently pour approximately 4.2 liters), two variator filters, a tool, a hand lift (or pit), and a head.

The master prudently prepared two HMMF canisters, since sometimes 4.2 liters of Japanese liquid is not enough to completely fill the system, and you have to use 200-300 grams from another can.

The car in which the fluid will be changed is placed on a lift. In general, you can do the same procedures in a pit, but it’s much more convenient on a lift.

The old special fluid is drained from the variator pan. It is worth noting that this method of replacing fluid is relevant for first and second generation CVTs installed on Honda Civic EK, EU-ES, Capa, Logo, HR-V, and other CVT vehicles, except Fit and the like. There is no pan on the Fit, so the process of replacing the special fluid is completely identical to servicing an automatic transmission. For all other variators, the replacement method is suitable and differs only in minor nuances.

By removing the pan, we gain access to the large variator filter. In second-generation CVTs (and this is what we are dealing with) a filter was installed in a plastic housing. The first generation had an iron filter. There is no fundamental difference between them, although they are not interchangeable. They have general purpose and general location.

The second generation variator pan differs from the first generation in the absence of a fine paper filter. The first generation had a small round filter mounted in the pan, which required replacement at the same time as the liquid. On variators of the second type, the fine filter was moved to the radiator area and became remote.

Please note that the yellow strip around the perimeter of the pan is a carefully removed cardboard gasket for the variator pan, which can stand there almost forever until it breaks, provided that the technician removes it without too much enthusiasm.

By removing the large plastic filter, we gain access to the variator control unit. In this case, it is even in a very clean state.

After this operation, use a measuring container to measure the volume of drained liquid. The volume of fresh fluid required for replacement will be approximately the same.

To keep the unit clean, the master prefers to treat the surface of the control unit with a carbon cleaner. This is a safe operation because the block does not contain rubber seals that can be damaged by carburetor cleaner, while dirt and debris are perfectly washed out of tight spots.

The pallet also undergoes a cleaning procedure with a carbon cleaner, after which it becomes smooth and silky.

A small (flow-through) fine filter on second-generation CVTs is located in the area of ​​the cooling system. This is a smart decision, since its replacement is prescribed with each fluid change, and it is much more convenient to unhook the filter from the coolant line than to unscrew the pan.

The first generation CVTs needed to work in the sump to replace the fine filter. Otherwise, the principle of operation of the circuit is absolutely the same.

The new filter is installed in place of the old one.

Reassembly is carried out according to the principle of installing a new one in place of the old one. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it will be necessary to rearrange the magnets from the old filter to the new one in the first generation variator with a metal filter. When working with a plastic filter, no action is required since the magnets are attached to the tray.

The final chord of the whole event is the filling of a new HMMF (or CVTF, it doesn’t matter).

In our case, the whole process took about 30 minutes, 4.2 liters of HMMF, 0.5 bottles of carburetor cleaner, and two filters. Everything cost the client about $200.

Honda Vodam.ru

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ATF oil change options

How to change the oil in an automatic transmission (including completely)!

There are three main ways to change the oil in an automatic transmission:

1. Method one, traditional - partial replacement oils, its refreshment. Unscrew the drain plug in the automatic transmission crankcase (at the bottom), drain as much oil as can leak out, and fill in the same amount (or more/less - the level is checked using the dipstick). In this case, 30-40% of the oil is changed. Nothing drastic happens to the automatic transmission - the new oil is simply mixed with the old one. If you need to change more than 30-40% of the oil or all oil completely, it is recommended to repeat the partial replacement procedure several times (3-5) every few hundred kilometers.

The advantages of this method:

You can do everything yourself, without stopping at a service station and without resorting to outside help;

A small amount of oil is consumed (with one change);

The filter and pan are washed; based on deposits on the pan, you can analyze the operation of the automatic transmission and prevent serious breakdowns;

There is less risk of “useful” deposits being washed out of the automatic transmission and, therefore, less risk of disrupting the operation of the box.

To completely replace ATP, you need to change it several times, which leads to its large total consumption;

You still won't change ATP completely.

2. Method two - 100% replacement Automatic transmission oils at service stations using special equipment. Many service stations now have devices installed (mainly from Wynns), with the help of which the oil in an automatic transmission is changed by pressing. New oil is replaced by the old one, which allows us to talk about its complete replacement. This is done according to the following algorithm: through the transmission cooling radiator, the tubes of the device, the engine, and the old oil drains, new one is poured. Through a special window you can visually control the color of ATP - as soon as it reaches the desired color, the procedure stops. Such a replacement takes about 10-12 liters of ATP. The cost of such a procedure in Vladivostok is about 200-400 rubles for the work itself, plus the cost of ATP. You may also be asked to apply a flush.

There is no need to cheat with the amount of ATP poured into your car - you control the entire process and see for yourself how much ATP is included in the automatic transmission;

Full replacement Automatic transmission oil has a very significant effect on gasoline consumption, downward, as losses in the torque converter are greatly reduced. In addition, the automatic transmission itself often becomes “faster”;

You trust the professionals.

The service station will give you a guarantee for their work, but they will not give you a guarantee for the normal operation of the automatic transmission after that. This is due to the fact that during a complete oil change, “useful” deposits are washed out with all the ensuing consequences - up to and including automatic transmission breakdown. However, this is only relevant for cars with high mileage, and not for new cars;

Equipment for such a procedure is not yet available in all cities, that is, this method is not available to every motorist;

This, of course, costs more than just refreshing the oil.

3. Method three - 100% automatic transmission oil change on your own. For those who do not want to overpay car service representatives and are confident in their abilities. Let’s make a reservation right away: the following methods for changing automatic transmission oil are taken from the forum and their effectiveness remains entirely on the conscience of those who described them in our forum

So the method in general outline is as follows: warm up the automatic transmission, drive about 5 km, drive into a pit, and, turning off the engine, unscrew drain plug on the automatic transmission tray. Drain as much oil as possible. Then very carefully unscrew the pan - there is still quite a large amount of oil left in it, and if you move it carelessly, you can pour it on yourself. Carefully remove the filter (some more oil will spill out), rinse the filter (with gasoline or solvent, blow it out), rinse the pan from deposits, then put back the filter, gasket, and pan. Then pour into the dipstick hole the same amount of ATP as was poured out as a result of previous operations (or even a little more). After this, you need to disconnect the oil drain pipes from the cooling radiator, put hoses on the oil channels, which are lowered into a container of a size suitable for draining ATP (some people use Dexron cans, others Coca-Cola bottles - a matter of taste ). The engine starts and after a few seconds water flows from the hose. oil. As soon as the leaking oil acquires the color of fresh (that is, in fact, the new oil will displace the old one), turn off the engine (it is better to use a partner for this). Remove the hoses and reattach the tubes. All that remains is to check the ATP level using cold marks and hot marks (after you have driven several kilometers in quiet mode).

The advantages of this method:

It takes about the same amount of oil to change as if it were replaced at a service station (or even less);

Naturally, this costs less.

All the disadvantages that come with independent intervention in the operation of car components.

Independent replacement oil in the variator on a Honda HR-V

We are deciding how we will change...

There are two replacement methods, " Complete replacement" and "Partial"

For a standard (partial) replacement of the special fluid HMMF (08260-99904) exactly 4.0 liters are required for an all-wheel drive HR-V.

What do we need to change the oil?

The following list of parts will be required:

08260-99904 - Fluid for variator HMMF (4 l.) (for partial replacement, for full replacement more than 4 liters)

25450-P4V-013 - Filter (cylindrical)

91305-PN4-003 - O-ring cylinder. (bottom)

91331-P4V-003 - O-ring cylinder. filter (top)

25420-PET-003 - Filter (flat)

91327-P4V-003 - Flat filter O-ring

90471-PX4-000 - Drain plug washer

21814-P4V-000 - Pan gasket

1. Disposable aluminum washer, under the drain plug may also have the same number - (90471-PX4-000).

The fluid level is checked on a warm variator (you need to drive 10-15 km) in the interval of 60-90 seconds after stopping the engine on a flat surface. That is, you drive 15 km, stop on a flat surface, turn off the engine, wait a minute, pull out the dipstick and look at the level between the marks. Accordingly, add or pump out the liquid.

[!] No flushing is required, especially on the device

We lift the car or on a pit, whoever will do it, I will describe how to do it on a lift.

The drain plug is unscrewed and the old oil is drained.

The location of the plug is indicated by an arrow.

The plug with a new washer is screwed back in, since new oil will be poured through the hole for the dipstick.