When shifting gears poorly, driving a car becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Consider the main reasons why gears shift poorly or do not shift at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission differ too much, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear changes on a car with a manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction, when it does not fully disengage (leads). The first symptom of this problem is reverse gear turns on with a characteristic crack. The rear reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than the other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gearbox gear selection mechanism. And, finally, the third is excessive wear of the gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears do not shift well:

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs in those gears that are switched on more often: these are usually first, second and third. The rear one does not fall into this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear shifts poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should only have difficulties with this on the go. Secondly, in this case it switches better if you use a double release.

For those who do not know what a double squeeze is. To upshift: depress the clutch, shift into neutral, release and depress the clutch again, shift into gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for the fuzzy gear shifting

To switch to low: double squeeze must be combined with regassing, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the box is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears on a car whose box does not have synchronizers. If the box shifts easier using a double squeeze, then the worn out synchronizers are most likely to blame for the poor gear shifting.

If the gears shift poorly when the car is stationary with the engine turned off, the malfunction can only be in the gearbox gear selection mechanism.

Look for a breakdown in it or check the correctness of its adjustment. Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers.

For those who have an automatic

If your car has automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

The automatic gearbox has a button on the mode switch with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, a switch-on prohibition occurs, which upshifts the analog of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your machine has 4 forward gears, then for more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

About a gearbox malfunction, an automatic transmission is much more complicated than those encountered with a manual transmission, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about it, at least in order not to harm it by improper operation.

Automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than mechanics. Both too low and too high oil levels are very harmful to her. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, foaming of the oil occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump begins to capture air along with the oil. With an excess of oil, it foams up the rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slippage of the clutches and their intensive wear. The deteriorating thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. Which, in combination with low pressure, will lead to the fact that the machine will fail and require serious repairs.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will show too high a level. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required poria and repeat the test.

The oil level in the machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

• Warm up the oil to operating temperature(for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Choose a flat, horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

• Move the lever for selecting the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine operates.
• Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
• Without stopping the engine, remove the dipstick, wipe it dry and re-insert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of oil traces on a dry dipstick should be at the mark with the inscription hot or in the area with intersecting notches.

In case of insufficient level, oil can be added through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so add only clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that does not loose threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark, burning-smelling liquid indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material that the clutches are made of. Do not hesitate to replace such an oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can get into the box due to leaks in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common malfunctions of the machine

• The vehicle does not move forward and reverse is normal. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch clutches, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
• There is no reverse speed, there are only 1 and 2 forward. Probable causes: clutch friction wear reversing, malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline connection in the drum housing, another defect of this drum.
• No back, forward everything works. Causes: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
• There is no movement either forward or backward when you turn on any mode, there is a shifting push, but the car stands still. Causes: torque converter malfunction, lack of oil, clogged filter.
• Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are engaged. Causes: valve jamming in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and friction clutches of gears that do not turn on.

The clarity of gear shifting and the operation of the entire shift mechanism often worries car owners with mechanical box. A common problem is that after starting the engine, one or more gears are engaged with great effort or not completely, there is no way to turn on the speed, at the moment of switching on, extraneous noise, extra vibrations appear, etc.

Such malfunctions appear unexpectedly, and also difficulties in shifting gears can increase gradually. Speeds may turn on poorly “cold” and / or “hot”. It is noteworthy that often the gears in the manual transmission on the muffled engine switch normally.

Read in this article

Poor gears on a running engine: possible causes

At the very beginning, it should be noted that the inability to engage the gear with the engine not running may indicate a serious gearbox malfunction, which consists in the failure of the synchronizers. The second reason may be wear or breakage of the gears. It is also possible to jam the units and mechanisms responsible for the transfer of force from the lever in the cabin to the gearbox when choosing a gear.

In order to accurately establish the causes, in the first case it will be necessary to remove the box for disassembly and subsequent troubleshooting, in the second it is necessary to identify and replace broken components. In some cases, it is enough to carry out their prevention: removal, lubrication and careful tuning.

As for the problematic switching when the internal combustion engine is running, then the most frequent malfunctions note:

• absence gear oil at the checkpoint;
• problems with the clutch mechanism;

Low oil level in the gearbox

Insufficient amount of oil in the box makes the process of gear shifting extremely difficult, but the gears should turn on. With such a switch, a metallic crunch is heard, the box, when driving in the engaged gear, begins to make a lot of noise and “howl”.

A complete lack of lubrication in the gearbox will not allow gear shifting, since without oil the synchronizers will not be able to work properly, and the gears in the box will not mesh.

Any manifestation of these symptoms requires the immediate cessation of operation of the vehicle and checking the level of transmission oil in the gearbox. It is also necessary to inspect the gearbox for damage to the housing, oil leaks through the seals and gaskets.

It should be noted that for the manual transmission of many cars, the oil in the box from the factory is filled for the entire service life. In practice, replacement is recommended every 60-80 km. run.

Clutch malfunctions

Simply put, the clutch is a mechanism that serves to transfer the torque of the internal combustion engine to the transmission, and also opens the engine and transmission in order to be able to change gear. Failure of individual components of this assembly can make it impossible to shift gears with the engine running.

Brake fluid leaks

The design of many modern cars suggests that working fluid protrudes for clutch brake fluid. If in hydraulic system the clutch actuator does not have the correct amount of fluid, then the clutch will not be fully engaged.

Gears in this case will turn on tightly or not turn on at all. For an initial check, you should look at the fluid level in the tank. If the level is low, it is necessary to check for leaks, repair defects and pump the clutch.

In the event that the fluid level is normal and no other reasons have been identified, it will be necessary to remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch elements. Usually when you try to turn on the speed and breakdowns this mechanism there are no loud grinding metallic sounds from the checkpoint itself.

Gears may not turn on or turn on incompletely if the malfunction is related to the clutch basket. Also, the reason may be release bearing. In the event that the indicated bearing does not move freely along the input shaft or is jammed, then a replacement part is necessary.

It must be added separately that the primary sign of problems with the clutch release is the appearance of a rustle or a distinct hum on a running car. Noises appear only at the moment when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. Such extraneous sounds may be present as cold car, and on warmed up. After releasing the clutch pedal, the noise should disappear. A stuck release will prevent the clutch from engaging, making it difficult to shift gears and can also lead to rapid wear and destruction of other elements of the clutch mechanism.

Basket malfunctions are often associated with critical wear of the petals. Wear means that the basket ceases to perform its functions with heat. An increase in temperature leads to the fact that by means of the clutch basket it is not possible to fully retract the pressure plate. The result is a very difficult gear change after a slight warm-up of the engine.

After removing the box, it is necessary to inspect the basket for deformation, signs of overheating and other defects. If found, the element must be replaced.

Another reason that the gears do not turn on with the car running or turn on with effort may be a worn clutch disc.

After parsing, it is necessary to inspect the friction linings on the disk. They should not be critically worn, burnt or damaged, and disk deformation is also not allowed. Additionally, during the inspection of the clutch, a check of the diaphragm springs is required. After replacing the failed clutch elements, the box must be well centered during subsequent assembly, and the clutch must be pumped.

Read also

RPM and engine life. Disadvantages of driving at low and high revs. What is the best RPM for the engine? Councils and recommendations.

What to do if the car began to accelerate worse, does not pick up speed, there are failures during acceleration. Why the motor does not pull, how to find the reason for the decrease in power.

Does the reverse speed rarely turn on the first time, and the process itself is accompanied by a crunch? Owners of not only Lada Priora, Kalina and Grant models, but also modern Lada Vesta and XRAY cars face similar problems. We will tell you what is the cause of this disease.

Reverse gear feature LADA cars that it has no synchronizers. Therefore, the problem of turning on the reverse gear is most often associated with the fact that the gear falls on the tooth.

What to do if the reverse gear does not turn on:

• If you feel that the reverse speed has not reached, release the clutch a little, the gear will move, and the gearshift lever will be inserted all the way.
• After depressing the clutch, try shifting into reverse gear after 2-3 seconds.
• Try depressing the clutch and shifting into neutral, then releasing the clutch, and then depressing again and shifting into reverse.
• Try reverse gear at a different speed. For example, first 4th or 5th gear, and then reverse.

Sometimes changing the gear oil helps solve a reverse gear problem.

Articles about tuning Lada Xray

Some LADA owners write that the gearbox began to work normally only after a certain mileage (3000-5000 km).

Another reason for the poor engagement of reverse gear on the Lada Vesta is the ingress of moisture under the anther of the gearshift rod (in the engine compartment).

If none of the suggestions helped solve the problem, contact the official dealer(possibly a problem in the checkpoint). Have you come across similar cases? How did you manage to solve the problem?