One way to increase engine power internal combustion car is to reduce the resistance in the air intake - exhaust system exhaust gases. It is known that the removal of the muffler and catalyst can increase engine power by up to 10%.

Likewise, completely removing the air filter can increase power by up to 8-10%. That is why in the 20th century many racing cars air filters were simply not installed on mobiles. However, at the same time, the ingress of dust particles into the intake system significantly reduced the engine life.

Considering that modern racing car engines cost fabulous money, the designers were tasked with developing air filters with zero resistance intake air and it was resolved. Now such filters (car enthusiasts often call them “nulevik”) are affordable for ordinary car owners and their popularity is increasing.

Why you need a zero and how it works

During the operation of an internal combustion engine, it is necessary to protect the air intake duct from dust, small particles, fluff, insects and other substances that are not in a gaseous state. In principle, even gaseous water (steam) also destroys the piston group.

To protect the engine in all cars equipped with internal combustion engines, an air filter is installed. Without such a filter, the engine life can be reduced up to 10 times.

On most cars, regular filters are made of a special, as a rule, paper composition. Such material has the smallest pores (holes - micropores), which prevent the smallest particles from passing through the filter.

The more such pores, the less resistance the filter will have to the passage of air. Therefore, most air filters are made in the form of an "accordion" to increase the area and number of pores.

Video - what problems can arise when using the nulevik in various modes:

During the operation of the car, such air filters quickly become clogged, as their resistance increases.

The idea behind zero-resistance filters is that the pore size in them is enlarged to slightly impede the passage of air flow. The filter material itself (usually a fabric base made of a special material) attracts dust and small particles to itself, as it were, where they settle. This "attraction" is based on the physical and chemical processes of electrization and adsorption.

There are two main types of filtering:

1. Dry filtration. Filters of this type are less efficient. Studies show that the maximum increase in engine power is less than 5%.
2. impregnated filters. Their efficiency is higher (up to 7% power increase). Dust and particles settle on oily impregnation.

Where to install nulevik in a car

There are three options here:

1. In an abnormal place, that is, separately from the standard air intake system.

This option allows you to install a filter of any design that will fit under the hood of an existing car.

There is a big disadvantage in this installation method. Air will enter the engine from engine compartment and not from an external intake.

In addition, the air will be heated by a running engine, that is, less dense, therefore, with a lower oxygen content. This minus eats up almost all the advantages of a zero resistance air filter.

2. At the regular place.

In this case, it is necessary to select a filter of a compatible design. In modern cars, air filters generally have a rectangular (trapezoidal) configuration.

The maximum efficiency of rectangular filters with zero resistance does not exceed 5% (cylindrical - about 7%).

3. Installation on a modified intake system design.

Most effective method installation, however, requires certain skills and additional costs for the re-equipment of the standard system of air ducts and intakes.

Pros and cons of zero resistance air filters

First about the poles:

• increase in engine power. Specifically, it is possible to judge the power increase factor only on the basis of testing for each installation option. Do not trust advertising. Efficiency can be from 1 to 8%;

• reduction in fuel consumption. For owners cars this characteristic can be decisive when installing an emergency zero;

• for dry filters, the filter installation and maintenance procedures practically do not change (it should be remembered that they are less effective than serviced zero filters);

• changing the "sound" of the engine. This plus is more suitable for the younger generation of motorists.

• price. The price can be up to 10,000 rubles. An average nulevik will cost about 2,000 rubles, but this is more than the cost of an ordinary consumable.

• an abnormal installation of a zero-resistance filter may have negative efficiency if heated engine compartment air enters it;

• the need for maintenance (impregnation) of the filter of zero resistance after 2 - 3 thousand kilometers simultaneously with cleaning. The procedure takes time and additional costs;

• its installation is effective only in the complex of car tuning works. No efficiency gain exhaust system often the installation of such a filter does not make sense at all (especially with a clogged catalyst);

• not the fact that the engine management system will adequately perceive the increase in air flow. In the air intake system of each modern car there is a flow meter (). It instantly “calculates” the change in mass air consumption and corrects the engine. That is, when installing a nulevik, it is rational to perform chip tuning of the car engine control unit. This operation is costly;

• there is no 100% proof of the effectiveness of installing zero-resistance filters in conventional cars. For racing cars, everything is clear: every additional horse is expensive there, regardless of the costs. The installers are professionals. Control and adjustment is carried out on professional equipment. At the disposal of ordinary motorists - only advertising;

• at non-standard installation The Federal Tax Service may have questions during the inspection.

Video - does it make sense to set zero if they are not held additional work for tuning:

How to properly serve

Zero resistance filter maintenance sequence:

• cleaning with a special brush (you can use soft clothes, you can additionally use a vacuum cleaner);

• rinsing the filter (possible with special formulations, even household "Weasel" is suitable);

• drying for 12 hours (not close to the battery);

• application of a special impregnation for the Federal Tax Service from the side of the air inlet - two times.

Do not exceed the amount of impregnation, as its excess may enter the engine. The packaging of the Federal Tax Service and care products must contain instructions for use and operation. For some filter models, the maintenance sequence may be different.

Every motorist sooner or later thinks about refining the engine. The first thing you can strengthen the engine with is a zero-resistance air filter. Alas, due to the factory assembly, regular filters significantly "eat up" the power of the engine. However, to fix such a problem and return horsepower to the car, it is enough to install a zero resistance filter.

Zero resistance air filter - why is it?

An average car consumes 12-15 m 3 of air for every 100 km of run. To prevent dust and debris from the air from entering the engine, an air filter is placed under the hood.

In addition to mechanical cleaning, the filter in gasoline engines becomes a temperature regulator combustible mixture and provides sound insulation of the intake tract. Regular filters are made of thick paper folded in several layers. Dense material has a strong resistance to incoming air and reduces engine power by about 5-10%.

However, if the assembly is removed from the engine compartment, abrasive particles that get inside can accelerate the wear of the parts of the cylinder-piston group. In factory filters, all debris particles are retained on paper, which in the future can lead to excessive enrichment of the mixture and incomplete combustion.

To protect yourself from such problems, it is enough to install a filter of zero resistance. Thanks to a well-thought-out design, the nulevik reduces the level of resistance at the air inlet without losing capacity.

On modern sports cars, a zero resistance filter is installed immediately during assembly. However, in addition to the filter element on sports cars the exhaust gas system has been improved. Such a move allows, without damage to the machine, to bring an increased amount of gases to high revs and minimize power loss during airflow start-up.

You can get acquainted with the structure and properties of the filter in detail before buying or installing it on the video:

How is a zero resistance filter different from a regular one?

Standard filters are made from compressed paper fibers, and air masses penetrate through micro-holes in the structure of the material. After the abrasive particles clog the penetrating holes, the phenomenon of "surface load" occurs. The air flow "looks" for another way to get inside, since the surface of the filter element has a high resistance. In this case, engine power will decrease, and fuel consumption will increase exorbitantly.

According to the minimum cleaning standards, the material for standard filters should be rigid, and the fibers should be as compressed as possible, which is why paper filters have a higher resistance by default.

The zero-resistance filter design uses a cotton cloth that is sandwiched between an aluminum screen. Fabric fibers are impregnated special oil. As a result, dust particles are trapped on the fibers and become part of the filter assembly, which activates new scheme cleaning. Such a system allows you to increase the working area of ​​the element by approximately five times and pass additional air flow.

Pros and cons of zero

Having become acquainted with the design and differences between the factory paper filter and the zero filter, we can confidently name the advantages of the second:

• Thanks to its complex design, the nulevik provides low resistance without compromising cleaning performance, protecting the intake system from debris and the engine from wear.
• The configuration of the fabric allows you not to change the filter every 10 thousand kilometers. It is enough just to renew the impregnation and rinse the element.
• After replacing the node, the motorist will receive several additional Horse power. More likely to increase torque at medium and low revs.

However, like any upgrade, tuning the power unit with a modern filter has its drawbacks:

• To obtain an actual increase in torque, you will have to do several additional operations: dismantle the standard element along with the insert and install the cone zero on the sensor mass flow or on its nozzle.
• Installing a filter on an engine up to 1.8–2 liters does not make sense. The increase in power will be no more than 5 horsepower, and physically even the most experienced driver won't be able to feel it.

The engine displacement indicator can be neglected if a complex revision is carried out: the installation of sports camshafts and cylinder boring. To increase the return of the intake system, along with the null, they acquire an increased throttle.

Varieties of zero resistance filters

To date, the automotive industry offers only two types of zero-resistance air filters:

1. With impregnation. The most common and effective option. Adds up to 7% power, cleans the airflow well. Among the minuses, there is a frequent need for maintenance and replacement of the oil composition.
2. Dry. Visually similar to a standard paper filter, but with up to 5% more power thanks to the cotton filling. It does not require constant fluid replacement, but, as practice shows, it is actually less effective.

Many manufacturers supplement the configuration of cleaning elements with their developments and improvements. Define for yourself the best manufacturer it is necessary based not on the contents of the instructions and good advertising, but on the capabilities and needs of the car.

Installing an air filter in a car

There are two ways to install the element under the hood. If the first one is very simple and standard, then the second way was invented by avid motorists in pursuit of beauty and power.

• To a regular place. To install, it is enough to dismantle the factory filter and install a new nulevik. Manufacturers claim that with such an installation, only up to 5% of additional power can be obtained. Nevertheless, the factory air intake system is located near the wings or under the engine, where the air temperature is obviously lower. If the nulevik is installed in a standard place, then the air will be captured from below - cold, increasing power, thus, by an additional couple of percent.
• Separate. Manufacturers believe that installing a filter bypassing a regular place is the best way. Looks under the hood as effectively as possible, gives an increase in power up to 7-10%. However, most often motorists install such a zero near the engine. A warm motor increases the air temperature to 50-60°C. The density of hot air is much lower than that of cold air, and when capturing such a flow, the filter loses up to 10% of the promised power.

The density of air at 20°C is 1.204 kg/cm 3 and at 50°C approximately 1.109 kg/cm 3 . A 10% difference can do more harm than good to a car.

Filter maintenance and safety - cleaning features

Since the zero resistance filter is reusable, it must be washed every 10-15 thousand kilometers. The filter is designed for 20 washes, after which it should be replaced with a new one.

The filter surface is cleaned of debris and dirt, possibly using a brush. This should be done in warm water using a soapy solution or shampoo. To remove the outdated oil composition, a special substance is used, which can be purchased at any car dealership. The reagent is left on the filter for 10-15 minutes, and then washed off under running water.

Hello everyone! Next in line we have a rather relevant and interesting topic. After all, we will talk about the nulevik filter. Many have heard about such an air filter, but not everyone knows exactly what it is, what it is for, and what is the use of it.

Nulevik put instead of the air filter in a regular place. And here it is important to understand what such a device gives. Let me tell you right now, it has its pros and cons. But for objectivity, I will first try to tell you in detail about the device, and then summarize whether there is any benefit in this purchase, whether it is worth installing a nulevik on a car, on a moped, on some VAZ or on a carburetor, for example. After all, there are often craftsmen on the net who put the device for Pidburg and on Alpha, that is, on a scooter.

Don't forget to share your opinion. Especially if you have personal experience in the use of filters of zero resistance. That's the right way to call zeros.

Why is it needed

First, let's figure out what it is and what it is eaten with. A standard or conventional air filter is designed to clean the air entering the motor from all kinds of contaminants. It is due to air filtration that power is lost.

This is due to the fact that the cleaning elements in the filter design (usually a special paper) create resistance to air flow. This is not surprising since the filtration material is very dense. And the higher the resistance values, the more the final power is lost. As you know, an increase in power is achieved by increasing the amount of incoming air. This is where the zero-resistance filter comes into play.

Nulevik is an alternative to the standard cleaner. Its design is such that the device reduces intake resistance without sacrificing air purification itself. This results in an increase in power.

And then a logical question arises as to whether your Priora, VAZ 2112 or VAZ 2114 is worthy of a similar element? Is it worth buying a nulevik at all, wanting to slightly increase engine power?

Practice and research show that such a small tuning as setting zero allows you to get an increase of 3-5% power. If it's a low-power car, then you definitely won't experience a few horsepower gains. You won't see any difference in dynamics either. But the numbers will be higher than you can comfort yourself a little.

Key Benefits

Reading reviews about nuleviks, I met a lot of conflicting opinions. One put himself such a filter on the injector, and was very pleased. Another spent a lot of money on a K&N Zero and installed it, wanted a change, and ended up with wasted time. And there are many such examples.

I will say right away that ordering zero-resistance filters from auto shops is not a problem at all. The price of some models is quite adequate, therefore it is not difficult to buy and relatively inexpensive. But is it necessary to install such an element on a VAZ with your own hands, the question is extremely interesting.

Let's start with the good. Like any device, the nulevik has its pros and cons. The disadvantages include the cost compared to a conventional air filter and the need for constant cleaning.

As for the advantages, there are several.

• The power increases. Nulevik has a complex design that allows you to reduce resistance. This gives an increase in the amount of horsepower;
• Simultaneous cleaning efficiency. Although the resistance drops, this does not affect the quality of air purification;
• Replacement frequency. It is not necessary to change the nulevik as often as a regular filter. They are washable. This allows you to return performance characteristics fully;
• Increase in features. Let a little, but nulevik adds power and increases torque;
• Sound. For many, it is not power that is important, but the sound characteristic of powerful motors. Nulevik creates such an effect, and as a result, the car sounds very interesting.

To achieve what you want, you will have to remove the standard filter, and install a device of zero resistance in its place. What is better, buy and install with your own hands, or give the car to the masters, decide for yourself. In the second case, there will be a guarantee of quality and a well-chosen filter. The main thing is that the specialists themselves are qualified and reliable.

But there is a sense

There is a common misconception that after removing the filter and housing, it is possible to significantly increase engine power. This is completely untrue.

It is important to take into account here that when developing an engine, a fine calculation of the gas distribution phases is made, in which errors and filter losses are taken into account. And if dust starts to enter the engine, it will definitely not be able to work for a long time. It is imperative to have a fence that will prevent the penetration of contaminants. You can reduce the resistance by expanding the through holes. But then the quality of filtration will decrease.

Before looking for a product article and buying a nulevik for your motorcycle or car, remember one simple truth. For cars without a powerful sports engine, the cost of buying such a filter will be absolutely meaningless. You're just wasting a few thousand dollars. The only thing you get is a slightly modified motor sound.

Zeros are only suitable for sports cars and cars with powerful power plants. It is allowed to use such a filter on serial motors only in cases where a comprehensive revision is carried out. That is, a bore is made in the cylinders, an increased throttle valve, sports camshafts are installed, etc. With them, you can also put a nulevik in the kit.

Maintenance question

If you still decide to install a nulevik instead of a standard type air filter, then you will have to take extra care of it. The essence of care is cleaning and periodic impregnation with solutions. Moreover, when leaving, a certain technology is strictly observed.

If this is not done, the car will significantly increase fuel consumption, power will drop and the car will begin to react poorly to increasing speed when the gas pedal is pressed.

You need:

• remove the filter;
• clean dirt with a soft brush;
• remove dirt from the landing nest;
• rinse the filter with water;
• shake a few times, do not dry;
• apply cleaning agent on both sides;
• put in place.

If the machine is operated in sufficiently harsh conditions, then such prevention is carried out at least every 8 thousand kilometers. For normal conditions, 10-12 thousand km is enough. One nulevik can be washed up to 20 times. Then a mandatory replacement.

What can be said about such filters of zero resistance? In the photo they look spectacular, are expensive and in theory they have important benefits before standard filters. But in relation to serial machines, they are useless. It is a fact.

Nuleviki actual put on powerful engines sports type and motors that are subject to serious technical tuning. By itself, the weather filter will not work on engines whose power does not exceed 120-150 horsepower.

The “zero resistance filter” (although it is correct to speak of “reduced” resistance, it cannot be zero) is one of those internal combustion engines that has established itself in the mass consciousness as a must-have item. You can see the zero-filter both on a serious tuning project and on a Chinese scooter. Moreover, the owners of such filters do not at all represent either their principle of operation or the rules for caring for low-resistance filters.

What does a zero resistance filter do?

In an internal combustion engine, the working fluid is atmospheric air. The more it enters the cylinder, the more fuel burns in it, the higher the temperature and pressure during the stroke of the piston. Hence the increase in torque and power.

But, the higher the engine speed, the stronger the influence of the intake tract resistance on the filling of the cylinders. If at low revs for gasoline engine filling is still cut off by the throttle, then in the “slipper to the floor” mode, the power already depends on the intake configuration, receiver settings and air filter resistance.

What is a "zero" resistance filter for? By definition, it resists airflow. Even if you remove the filter, turbulence at the cut of the air intake pipe will create some filling losses - it is not for nothing that bell-shaped forms are used in sports receivers.

Moreover, a high-quality filter with a high degree of purification, with an equal surface area, “chokes” the motor more than it passes all the dust into the cylinders. Therefore, before sports engines air filters were not installed at all - at most, meshes were attached to the air intakes to protect against random stones. The resource of the motors was still calculated for several races, and the increased abrasive wear of the cylinder-piston group was not critical.

But for equipment that was used in not so extreme conditions, and simply without rich sponsors, the problem of reducing the resource due to the lack of air filtration was acute. Therefore, the "zero filter" has become a kind of compromise between the throughput and the degree of air purification.

Structurally, the “nuleviki” are made of two types of materials: cotton or large-pored foam rubber, but the essence of the work remains the same. The filter curtain itself does not provide sufficient filtration, the pore size in it is effective only against relatively large particles. This provides little resistance to air flow.

Impregnation for the filter of zero resistance fights with fine dust - a special sticky oil that envelops the microcells in the filter curtain. While the air flow passes through the “maze” of the curtain, microparticles stick to the oil film.

For this reason, filters of this type require regular flushing, which removes contaminants and old oil, and new impregnation.

The most effective in terms of air purification are foam filters: it is not for nothing that they are already used from the factory on many motorcycles, the operating speed of which can exceed the five-digit mark. The foam rubber is easy to clean, has sufficient thickness so that the dust has time to stick to the walls of the cells. Cotton "cones" and curtains are much less convenient to clean due to the rigid reinforcing mesh inside, and their effectiveness (especially for cheap models) is less.

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Pros and cons: is there any sense in "zero"?

In reality, the difference with and without a filter is noticed only on a dyno. The benefit of reducing the resistance of only one element of the intake system appears only in the "full throttle" mode at high speeds, in the standard cycle of city driving, the effect of the "zero filter" is exactly zero.

Even for boosted engines, reducing intake resistance gives a penny of benefit. Take, for example, a graph taken on a stand with Nissan Skyline ECR33, whose RB25DET engine has already managed to move away from the standard configuration:

The result is not bad - 250 horsepower on wheels. But, if you remove the air filter at all - to ensure that the intake resistance is reduced even more than that of a high-quality "zero" - we will get the second graph:

The drop in power after a peak of 5000 rpm became smoother, but the difference in numbers is negligible: its increase without a filter is only 8 horsepower. With the 250 hp we already have, it's impossible to notice it anywhere but on the track when it counts in hundredths of a second.

And you have to pay for these pennies by complicating maintenance and worsening air purification.

The “right to life” filters of “zero” resistance have only on (and, first of all, on those boosted in terms of speed, and not boosted). But even there, the installation of a “zero” is one of the many stages of fine-tuning: installing wide-phase camshafts, fitting and grinding inlet channels, and setting up the receiver. In another case, a zero air filter is nothing more than a harmful, albeit beautiful, accessory.

In addition, the oil impregnation of the Nuleviks itself can cause problems on engines equipped with mass fuel flow sensors. The air flow, passing through the filter, carries along oil microparticles, which then settle on the walls of the inlet pipes and directly on the surface of the sensing element. Because of this layer, which works as a heat insulator, the DMRV starts to “lie”, giving an incorrect injection signal. And here, already on the “gone” composition of the air-fuel mixture, we will talk not about a microscopic increase in peak power, but about a noticeable drop.

In some cases, the FTS installation itself can even reduce the maximum engine power. When installing a fashionable cotton “cone” or foam rubber “mushroom”, you have to dismantle the standard air filter box and air intake. In case of unsuccessful layout engine compartment after this “anti-tuning”, the engine does not receive air that is close in temperature to atmospheric, but already warmed up, passing through the radiator. An increase in air temperature for every 10 degrees Celsius gives a loss in density of 0.04 kg / m3 - and the average atmospheric two-liter engine, untwisted up to 5000 rpm, drives 35 - 40 cubic meters through itself per minute! As a result, an engine with a zero-resistance air filter receives less air mass than with a standard, allegedly “strangled” intake.

The inevitable harm from the use of zero air filters is the accelerated wear of the cylinder-piston group. Even the air purification results of these filters declared by the world's leading manufacturers (for example, K&N) do not exceed 99% under ideal conditions and with the use of an expensive branded oil for impregnation. Air filter with a paper curtain is capable of filtering from 99.5 to 99.9 percent of dust. It would seem that the difference is small - but for several tens of thousands of kilometers we will already talk about the difference in whole grams of dust that has fallen into the engine cylinders. Moreover, as it gets dirty, the paper filter only increases the degree of filtration: dust, clogging the pores, reduces the throughput, and they become able to trap smaller particles, albeit at the cost of increasing resistance.

In "zero" pollutants on the surface of the pores reduce the likelihood of adhesion of new particles, and the cross section of the pores still remains larger than the size of the particles being filtered, as pollution decreases, the degree of purification decreases with a little changing resistance. The previously used contact-oil air filters suffered the same, where the oil impregnated the line stuffed inside (designs familiar, for example, from trucks and motorcycles). Nuleviki have become a more compact and lighter version of these filters, which have long been supplanted by paper ones.

And errors in filter maintenance make wear rates only higher. Someone manages not to impregnate filters, someone uses cheap aerosols or oils that are completely unsuitable for impregnation. Try rubbing a drop of branded impregnation oil between your fingers: it is so sticky that even wiping it off your fingers is not easy. Another oil will not give any noticeable improvement in cleaning compared to a filter that is not impregnated at all.

The only plus for engines that have not been subjected to serious tuning, from the installation of “nuleviks”, can be considered the absence of the need for regular replacement: you need to wash and re-impregnate the same filter in time.

Video: Nuleviki air filters - evil or tuning?

Almost every motorist has heard of the existence of an alternative to regular air filters, which provides an increase in engine power without any modifications. This is a zero resistance filter. Adding a couple of horses, while replacing only one element, is a tempting prospect. However, as you know, in practice there may be some difficulties. Therefore, an ordinary driver often cannot answer the question of whether it is worth putting such a part on a car, there are too many controversial points.

In order to dispel all the myths about the so-called "nuleviks" and give an unambiguous answer, we will consider the design, principle of operation, varieties, maintenance requirements, advantages and disadvantages of such products, and then summarize.

Zero resistance air filter device and its principle of operation

As you know, for the normal operation of an internal combustion engine, whether it be diesel, gas or gasoline, it is necessary that fuel-air mixture in the required proportion. To do this, the engine takes air from the atmosphere. But, atmospheric air is not clean, along with it, grains of dust, dust particles and other foreign objects can get into the combustion chambers, which can cause significant harm, significantly reducing the life of the engine. To prevent this from happening, the intake air is first passed through an air filter. Standard factory filters provide an insurmountable barrier to dust, but have significant inlet resistance as air passes through dense cellulose layers. In addition, over time, the micropores of a standard element become clogged with dust and the filling of the cylinders with air worsens even more. Such resistance has an extremely negative effect on the operation of the engine, reducing its power.

An air filter of zero resistance does not have such a disadvantage, since it practically does not impede the movement of the flow, providing maximum possible consumption air in the channel, thereby allowing the motor to operate at the required mode without interruption. The work of the "nulevik" is especially noticeable on high speed when it is required to supply significant volumes of air, while regular filter elements, due to the features described above, cannot cope with such a task.

The design of low-resistance filters is quite complicated, since they must not only not interfere with the movement of air, but also have time to fulfill their main task of cleaning it. Most often, such elements are made either from cotton canvas or from synthetic materials. Moreover, they try to make the number of layers minimal in order to achieve the lowest possible resistance at the input.

Zero resistance filter installation

You can put a “zero” on any car, since not only “zero” filters are currently produced that are mounted in regular places on specific car models, but also universal products that can be installed using a special adapter that comes most often in the kit on the different types engines regardless of the design of the standard mount.

You can perform the installation yourself, without the involvement of service station workers. The procedure is extremely simple and takes only a few minutes. All you need to do is remove the standard filter element and install a new one. In the case when a universal filter is installed, it is additionally necessary to dismantle the factory housing, which will also not create any problems.

It should be noted that during installation it is very important to ensure the tightness of the pipes in order to completely exclude the possibility of dirty air entering the engine tract. Also Special attention should be given to the location of the filter. If a conical sports filter with a flexible tube is installed, then it must be fixed as far as possible from the radiator so as not to spoil the parameters of the inlet air.

Pros and cons of "zeros"

Summing up the above, we emphasize the main pros and cons of zero-resistance air filters.

The advantages of such tuning parts include:

• low input resistance, allowing to increase the power of the internal combustion engine;
• easy installation and dismantling;
• compactness, "nulevik" takes up much less space in the engine compartment;
• a significantly longer service life compared to standard products;

However, in addition to the advantages, there are some disadvantages:

• the need for regular maintenance"nulevik", as well as the need to purchase additional impregnations;
• higher price of the product;

Types of zero resistance filters

Before dwelling in more detail on the maintenance of low-resistance air filters, it should be noted that all "null" can be divided into two groups:

• "dry", those that do not need additional impregnation with special substances;
• “wet” filters that need to be regularly treated with a sticky substance that traps even the smallest pollen;

"Wet" filters have a higher filtering capacity, but they are more expensive and require more attention than their "colleagues". It is they who are recommended to be installed on motors with film mass air flow sensors that do not tolerate pollution.

Caring for the zero resistance filter

In order to be guaranteed to get an increase in power throughout the entire life of the “zero”, it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the filter. Namely, every five thousand kilometers, and if necessary, more often, the surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt using a special technology.

Maintenance of dry "nuleviks"

Such products must first be cleaned of adhering particles of dirt, dust, insect remains, using a brush with a soft bristle for this purpose. You need to act very carefully so as not to damage the delicate filter material. After mechanical cleaning, spray the working surfaces with a special detergent composition, wait 10-15 minutes, and then rinse the filter under a weak stream of clean water. Shake the filter gently to remove moisture. Drying with a hair dryer or household heaters is strongly not recommended. After the above manipulations, the air filter of zero resistance can be put in place and safely used.

Cleaning "wet" filters

The procedure for cleaning impregnated with a special compound "null" is almost the same as described above, with one exception - after all the manipulations, it is necessary to additionally treat the surface with an adhesive recommended by manufacturers.

Is a zero resistance filter necessary?

As a summary, we will answer the question that worries many motorists about whether it is worth installing a low-resistance air filter. Definitely worth it if the engine often runs at high speeds and every horse counts. The benefits of such tuning are especially noticeable if the internal combustion engine was forced, the refinement of the intake and exhaust will allow you to purchase a ten percent increase in power. Installing a reduced filter is useful not only for a sports car, but also for a civilian car, since even if only slightly, it will still improve the engine. Moreover, you don’t have to sacrifice anything at the same time, and the procedure for replacing the filter core of a regular filter is quite simple.

However, once again we note that during installation it is very important to take into account the following nuances:

• firstly, you can only install a certified product that is not inferior in filtering quality to the factory "colleagues", otherwise the air flow sensors will fail very quickly, and the resource of the motor itself will significantly decrease;
• secondly, if the filter is not regularly maintained, then instead of a positive one, you can get the opposite effect.