Zero filter setting. Nulevik filter: pros and cons. Zero resistance filter installation

Every motorist sooner or later thinks about refining the engine. The first thing you can do to strengthen the engine - air filter zero resistance. Alas, due to the factory assembly, regular filters significantly "eat up" the power of the engine. However, to fix such a problem and return horsepower to the car, it is enough to install a zero resistance filter.

Zero resistance air filter - why is it?

An average car consumes 12-15 m 3 of air for every 100 km of run. To prevent dust and debris from the air from entering the engine, an air filter is placed under the hood.

In addition to mechanical cleaning, the filter in gasoline engines becomes a temperature controller combustible mixture and provides sound insulation of the intake tract. Regular filters are made of thick paper folded in several layers. Dense material has a strong resistance to incoming air and reduces engine power by about 5-10%.

However, if the node is removed from engine compartment, abrasive particles getting inside can accelerate the wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group. In factory filters, all debris particles are retained on paper, which in the future can lead to excessive enrichment of the mixture and incomplete combustion.

To protect yourself from such problems, it is enough to install a filter of zero resistance. Thanks to a well-thought-out design, the nulevik reduces the level of resistance at the air inlet without losing capacity.

On modern sports cars, a zero resistance filter is installed immediately during assembly. However, in addition to the filter element on sports cars the exhaust gas system has been improved. Such a move allows, without damage to the machine, to bring an increased amount of gases to high revs and minimize power loss during airflow start-up.

You can get acquainted with the structure and properties of the filter in detail before buying or installing it on the video:

How is a zero resistance filter different from a regular one?

Standard filters are made from compressed paper fibers, and air masses penetrate through micro-holes in the structure of the material. After the abrasive particles clog the penetrating holes, the phenomenon of "surface load" occurs. The air flow "looks" for another way to get inside, since the surface of the filter element has a high resistance. In this case, engine power will decrease, and fuel consumption will increase exorbitantly.

According to the minimum cleaning standards, the material for standard filters should be rigid, and the fibers should be as compressed as possible, which is why paper filters have a higher resistance by default.

The zero-resistance filter design uses a cotton cloth that is sandwiched between an aluminum screen. Fabric fibers are impregnated special oil. As a result, dust particles are trapped on the fibers and become part of the filter assembly, which activates new scheme cleaning. Such a system allows you to increase the working area of ​​the element by approximately five times and pass additional air flow.

Pros and cons of zero

Having become acquainted with the design and differences between the factory paper filter and the zero filter, we can confidently name the advantages of the second:

  • Thanks to its complex design, the nulevik provides low resistance without compromising cleaning performance, protecting the intake system from debris and the engine from wear.
  • The configuration of the fabric allows you not to change the filter every 10 thousand kilometers. It is enough just to renew the impregnation and rinse the element.
  • After replacing the node, the motorist will receive several additional Horse power. More likely to increase torque at medium and low speeds.

However, like any upgrade, tuning the power unit with a modern filter has its drawbacks:

  • To obtain an actual increase in torque, you will have to do several additional operations: dismantle the standard element along with the insert and install the cone zero on the sensor mass flow or on its nozzle.
  • Installing a filter on an engine up to 1.8–2 liters does not make sense. The increase in power will be no more than 5 horsepower, and physically even the most experienced driver won't be able to feel it.

The engine displacement indicator can be neglected if a complex revision is carried out: the installation of sports camshafts and cylinder boring. To increase the return of the intake system, along with the null, they acquire an increased throttle.

Varieties of zero resistance filters

To date, the automotive industry offers only two types air filters zero resistance:

  1. With impregnation. The most common and effective option. Adds up to 7% power, cleans the airflow well. Among the minuses, there is a frequent need for maintenance and replacement of the oil composition.
  2. Dry. Visually similar to a standard paper filter, but with up to 5% more power thanks to the cotton filling. It does not require constant fluid replacement, but, as practice shows, it is actually less effective.

Many manufacturers supplement the configuration of cleaning elements with their developments and improvements. Define for yourself the best manufacturer it is necessary based not on the contents of the instructions and good advertising, but on the capabilities and needs of the car.

Installing an air filter in a car

There are two ways to install the element under the hood. If the first one is very simple and standard, then the second way was invented by avid motorists in pursuit of beauty and power.

  • To a regular place. To install, it is enough to dismantle the factory filter and install a new nulevik. Manufacturers claim that with such an installation, only up to 5% of additional power can be obtained. Nevertheless, the factory air intake system is located near the wings or under the engine, where the air temperature is obviously lower. If the nulevik is installed in a standard place, then the air will be captured from below - cold, increasing power, thus, by an additional couple of percent.
  • Separate. Manufacturers believe that installing a filter bypassing a regular place is the best way. Looks under the hood as effectively as possible, gives an increase in power up to 7-10%. However, most often motorists install such a zero near the engine. A warm motor increases the air temperature to 50-60°C. The density of hot air is much lower than that of cold air, and when capturing such a flow, the filter loses up to 10% of the promised power.

The density of air at 20°C is 1.204 kg/cm 3 and at 50°C approximately 1.109 kg/cm 3 . A 10% difference can do more harm than good to a car.

Filter maintenance and safety - cleaning features

Since the zero resistance filter is reusable, it must be washed every 10-15 thousand kilometers. The filter is designed for 20 washes, after which it should be replaced with a new one.

The filter surface is cleaned of debris and dirt, possibly using a brush. This should be done in warm water using a soapy solution or shampoo. To remove the outdated oil composition, a special substance is used, which can be purchased at any car dealership. The reagent is left on the filter for 10-15 minutes, and then washed off under running water.

Almost every motorist has heard of the existence of an alternative to regular air filters, which provides an increase in engine power without any modifications. This is a zero resistance filter. Adding a couple of horses, while replacing only one element, is a tempting prospect. However, as you know, in practice there may be some difficulties. Therefore, an ordinary driver often cannot answer the question of whether it is worth putting such a part on a car, there are too many controversial points.

In order to dispel all the myths about the so-called "nuleviks" and give an unambiguous answer, we will consider the design, principle of operation, varieties, maintenance requirements, advantages and disadvantages of such products, and then summarize.

Zero resistance air filter device and its principle of operation

As you know, for the normal operation of the engine internal combustion, whether diesel, gas or gasoline, it is necessary that the cylinders through the intake valves receive fuel-air mixture in the required proportion. To do this, the engine takes air from the atmosphere. But, atmospheric air is not clean, along with it, grains of dust, dust particles and other foreign objects can get into the combustion chambers, which can cause significant harm, significantly reducing the life of the engine. To prevent this from happening, the intake air is first passed through an air filter. Standard factory filters provide an insurmountable barrier to dust, but have significant inlet resistance as air passes through dense cellulose layers. In addition, over time, the micropores of a standard element become clogged with dust and the filling of the cylinders with air worsens even more. Such resistance has an extremely negative effect on the operation of the engine, reducing its power.

An air filter of zero resistance does not have such a disadvantage, since it practically does not impede the movement of the flow, providing maximum possible consumption air in the channel, thereby allowing the motor to operate at the required mode without interruption. The work of the "nulevik" is especially noticeable on high speed when it is required to supply significant volumes of air, while regular filter elements, due to the features described above, cannot cope with such a task.

The design of low-resistance filters is quite complicated, since they must not only not interfere with the movement of air, but also have time to fulfill their main task of cleaning it. Most often, such elements are made either from cotton canvas or from synthetic materials. Moreover, they try to make the number of layers minimal in order to achieve the lowest possible resistance at the input.

Zero resistance filter installation

You can put a “zero” on any car, since not only “zero” filters are currently produced that are mounted in regular places on specific car models, but also universal products that can be installed using a special adapter that comes most often in the kit on the different types engines regardless of the design of the standard mount.

You can perform the installation yourself, without the involvement of service station workers. The procedure is extremely simple and takes only a few minutes. All you need to do is remove the standard filter element and install a new one. In the case when a universal filter is installed, it is additionally necessary to dismantle the factory housing, which will also not create any problems.

It should be noted that during installation it is very important to ensure the tightness of the pipes in order to completely exclude the possibility of dirty air entering the engine tract. Also Special attention should be given to the location of the filter. If a conical sports filter with a flexible tube is installed, then it must be fixed as far as possible from the radiator so as not to spoil the parameters of the inlet air.

Pros and cons of "zeros"

Summing up the above, we emphasize the main pros and cons of zero-resistance air filters.

The advantages of such tuning parts include:

  • low input resistance, allowing to increase the power of the internal combustion engine;
  • easy installation and dismantling;
  • compactness, "nulevik" takes up much less space in the engine compartment;
  • a significantly longer service life compared to standard products;

However, in addition to the advantages, there are some disadvantages:

  • the need for regular maintenance of the “nulevik”, as well as the need to purchase additional impregnations;
  • higher price of the product;

Types of zero resistance filters

Before dwelling in more detail on the maintenance of low-resistance air filters, it should be noted that all "null" can be divided into two groups:

  • "dry", those that do not need additional impregnation with special substances;
  • “wet” filters that need to be regularly treated with a sticky substance that traps even the smallest pollen;

"Wet" filters have a higher filtering capacity, but they are more expensive and require more attention than their "colleagues". It is they who are recommended to be installed on motors with film mass air flow sensors that do not tolerate pollution.

Caring for the zero resistance filter

In order to be guaranteed to get an increase in power throughout the entire life of the “zero”, it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the filter. Namely, every five thousand kilometers, and if necessary, more often, the surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt using a special technology.

Maintenance of dry "nuleviks"

Such products must first be cleaned of adhering particles of dirt, dust, insect remains, using a brush with a soft bristle for this purpose. You need to act very carefully so as not to damage the delicate filter material. After mechanical cleaning, spray the working surfaces with a special detergent composition, wait 10-15 minutes, and then rinse the filter under a weak stream of clean water. Shake the filter gently to remove moisture. Drying with a hair dryer or household heaters is strongly not recommended. After the above manipulations, the air filter of zero resistance can be put in place and safely used.

Cleaning "wet" filters

The procedure for cleaning impregnated with a special compound "null" is almost the same as described above, with one exception - after all the manipulations, it is necessary to additionally treat the surface with an adhesive recommended by manufacturers.

Is a zero resistance filter necessary?

As a summary, we will answer the question that worries many motorists about whether it is worth installing a low-resistance air filter. Definitely worth it if the engine often runs at high speeds and every horse counts. The benefits of such tuning are especially noticeable if the internal combustion engine was forced, the refinement of the intake and exhaust will allow you to purchase a ten percent increase in power. Installing a reduced filter is useful not only for a sports car, but also for a civilian car, since even if only slightly, it will still improve the engine. Moreover, you don’t have to sacrifice anything at the same time, and the procedure for replacing the filter core of a regular filter is quite simple.

However, once again we note that during installation it is very important to take into account the following nuances:

  • firstly, you can only install a certified product that is not inferior in filtering quality to the factory "colleagues", otherwise the air flow sensors will fail very quickly, and the resource of the motor itself will significantly decrease;
  • secondly, if the filter is not regularly maintained, then instead of a positive one, you can get the opposite effect.

The purity of the air supplied to the engine directly affects its resource and power. Therefore, intake systems are equipped with filter elements. At factories, the vast majority of mass-produced car models are supplied with paper filters, which, due to the small size of the pores in the material, reduce the air flow rate, which negatively affects the efficiency of the filter.

There is an alternative - filters of zero resistance or nulls. First of all, they differ significantly from standard paper ones. big size pores, which do not particularly affect the flow rate and the presence of impregnation. Contaminants leave the air stream as it bends in the labyrinth of the Nulevik's structure and, due to impregnation, stick to the walls of its pores.

According to the calculations of the manufacturers, the above features of the operation of zeros should increase engine power. And they, depending on the conscientiousness of the manufacturers, the type of engine and a number of other factors, even cope with this task.

What does a zero resistance filter or nulevik look like.

From a constructive point of view, there are two types of zero-resistance filters. The first is mounted in a regular place in the intake box, the second - directly in front of the throttle valve with the dismantling of the entire previous path. Both types are several layers of textile material impregnated special composition which is called oil. The textile material has a more porous structure compared to paper, and the oil keeps the dirt particles in its thickness.

Depending on the quality of the materials used, the cost of the part also varies. At the same time, cone-shaped filters mounted in front of the throttle are, as a rule, more expensive than flat paper filters installed in a regular place.

One of the features of zero-resistance filters is the need regular maintenance. In order for a clogged filter not to harm the engine during prolonged operation, it is recommended to wash it and renew the impregnation every 3-5 thousand kilometers. Specialized stores offer a wide range of rinsing and impregnating compounds. On the other hand, it is easier to replace the paper filter every 10 thousand km than to wash and re-impregnate the nulevik every two.

It should be noted that prolonged use of impregnated filters with MAF or MAP sensors installed immediately after the filter is fraught with serious engine damage. An intense air flow blows out oil, which settles on the sensor and distorts its readings.

What does a zero resistance filter give

Installing a zero resistance filter, depending on the type of engine and its initial power, gives different results:

  1. On turbocharged engines, there is no noticeable increase in power.
  2. atmospheric power units low power show an increase of 2% to 5%.
  3. With a successful coincidence of circumstances and the use of high-quality filters, the increase can be 7%, but this increase will be episodic.

Thus, there is no noticeable increase in horsepower, because the driver feels a difference of more than 10%. Therefore, installing a low-resistance filter is either a hunt for numbers, or not the most essential part of complex tuning. In fact, more power can be obtained simply by reducing the weight of the car.

Pros and cons of a zero resistance filter

Nulevik under the hood.

Naturally, installing a zero-resistance filter is not a completely pointless thing. Especially if you do not pay attention to the power parameters. Like any other technological solution, it has strengths and weaknesses.

Nulevik advantages

  • Be that as it may, they increase the power of the engines. Especially small atmospherics. Yes, the increase is minimal, but it is there.
  • Filtration with less airflow reduction optimizes fuel consumption.
  • There are models for installation in regular seats no modifications.
  • Cone-shaped models allow you to dismantle the intake tract up to the throttle, which frees up space under the hood, for example, to install an overall turbine.
  • The appearance of a characteristic sound of the engine running with zero. Although this is a purely decorative advantage, which does not affect power in any way.
  • Longer service life due to the possibility periodic maintenance, not replacements.

Nulevik Disadvantages

  • Significantly higher cost compared to regular paper filters. The cost of branded models reaches $ 150, while a typical paper filter can be purchased for 200-300 rubles.
  • Cone-shaped filters work with hot air from under the hood, which can adversely affect the condition of the engine and other components.
  • Inconsistent and dubious effectiveness, which depends on many factors, and, sometimes, is completely absent.

Given the above information, it is possible to equate the application zero filter to a piece of plastic fixed over the spokes of a bicycle. Only instead of a bicycle, a car, and instead of plastic, a part worth from 2000 rubles. After all, the essence of tuning, first of all, is to increase power, and not to make decorative changes.

Hello! Next in line we have a rather relevant and interesting topic. After all, we will talk about the nulevik filter. Many have heard about such an air filter, but not everyone knows exactly what it is, what it is for, and what is the use of it.

Nulevik put instead of the air filter in a regular place. And here it is important to understand what such a device gives. Let me tell you right now, it has its pros and cons. But for objectivity, I will first try to tell you in detail about the device, and then summarize whether there is any benefit in this purchase, whether it is worth installing a nulevik on a car, on a moped, on some VAZ or on a carburetor, for example. After all, there are often craftsmen on the net who put the device for Pidburg and on Alpha, that is, on a scooter.

Don't forget to share your opinion. Especially if you have personal experience in the use of filters of zero resistance. That's the right way to call zeros.

Why is it needed

First, let's figure out what it is and what it is eaten with. A standard or conventional air filter is designed to clean the air entering the motor from all kinds of contaminants. It is due to air filtration that power is lost.

This is due to the fact that the cleaning elements in the filter design (usually a special paper) create resistance to air flow. This is not surprising since the filtration material is very dense. And the higher the resistance values, the more the final power is lost. As you know, an increase in power is achieved by increasing the amount of incoming air. This is where the zero-resistance filter comes into play.

Nulevik is an alternative to the standard cleaner. Its design is such that the device reduces intake resistance without sacrificing air purification itself. This results in an increase in power.

And then a logical question arises as to whether your Priora, VAZ 2112 or VAZ 2114 is worthy of a similar element? Is it worth buying a nulevik at all, wanting to slightly increase engine power?


Practice and research show that such a small tuning as setting zero allows you to get an increase of 3-5% power. If it's a low-power car, then you definitely won't experience a few horsepower gains. You won't see any difference in dynamics either. But the numbers will be higher than you can comfort yourself a little.

Key Benefits

Reading reviews about nuleviks, I met a lot of conflicting opinions. One put himself such a filter on the injector, and was very pleased. Another spent a lot of money on a K&N Zero and installed it, wanted a change, and ended up with wasted time. And there are many such examples.

I will say right away that ordering zero-resistance filters from auto shops is not a problem at all. The price of some models is quite adequate, therefore it is not difficult to buy and relatively inexpensive. But is it necessary to install such an element on a VAZ with your own hands, the question is extremely interesting.


Let's start with the good. Like any device, the nulevik has its pros and cons. The disadvantages include the cost compared to a conventional air filter and the need for constant cleaning.

As for the advantages, there are several.

  • The power increases. Nulevik has a complex design that allows you to reduce resistance. This gives an increase in the amount of horsepower;
  • Simultaneous cleaning efficiency. Although the resistance drops, this does not affect the quality of air purification;
  • Replacement frequency. It is not necessary to change the nulevik as often as a regular filter. They are washable. This allows you to return performance characteristics fully;
  • Increase in features. Let a little, but nulevik adds power and increases torque;
  • Sound. For many, it is not power that is important, but the sound characteristic of powerful motors. Nulevik creates such an effect, and as a result, the car sounds very interesting.

To achieve what you want, you will have to remove the standard filter, and install a device of zero resistance in its place. What is better, buy and install with your own hands, or give the car to the masters, decide for yourself. In the second case, there will be a guarantee of quality and a well-chosen filter. The main thing is that the specialists themselves are qualified and reliable.


But there is a sense

There is a common misconception that after removing the filter and housing, it is possible to significantly increase engine power. This is completely untrue.

It is important to take into account here that when developing an engine, a fine calculation of the gas distribution phases is made, in which errors and filter losses are taken into account. And if dust starts to enter the engine, it will definitely not be able to work for a long time. It is imperative to have a fence that will prevent the penetration of contaminants. You can reduce the resistance by expanding the through holes. But then the quality of filtration will decrease.

Before looking for a product article and buying a nulevik for your motorcycle or car, remember one simple truth. For machines without power sports engine the cost of buying such a filter would be absolutely meaningless. You're just wasting a few thousand dollars. The only thing you get is a slightly modified motor sound.

Zeros are only suitable for sports cars and cars with powerful power plants. It is allowed to use such a filter on serial motors only in cases where a comprehensive revision is carried out. That is, a bore is made in the cylinders, an increased throttle valve, sports camshafts are installed, etc. With them, you can also put a nulevik in the kit.


Maintenance question

If you still decide to install a nulevik instead of a standard type air filter, then you will have to take extra care of it. The essence of care is cleaning and periodic impregnation with solutions. Moreover, when leaving, a certain technology is strictly observed.

If this is not done, the car will significantly increase fuel consumption, power will drop and the car will begin to react poorly to increasing speed when the gas pedal is pressed.

You need:

  • remove the filter;
  • clean dirt with a soft brush;
  • remove dirt from the landing nest;
  • rinse the filter with water;
  • shake a few times, do not dry;
  • apply cleaning agent on both sides;
  • put in place.

If the machine is operated in sufficiently harsh conditions, then such prevention is carried out at least every 8 thousand kilometers. For normal conditions, 10-12 thousand km is enough. One nulevik can be washed up to 20 times. Then a mandatory replacement.

What can be said about such filters of zero resistance? In the photo they look spectacular, are expensive and in theory they have important benefits before standard filters. But in relation to serial machines, they are useless. It is a fact.


Nuleviki actual put on powerful engines sports type and motors that are subject to serious technical tuning. By itself, the weather filter will not work on engines whose power does not exceed 120-150 horsepower.

Good afternoon. The topic of today's article is a zero resistance air filter, its pros and cons. Traditionally for our site, the article contains a large number of photo and video materials and contains a detailed answer.

What is a nulevik (zero resistance filter)?

A classic air filter looks like this:

It is usually made of special paper and filters through micropores i.e. particles larger than a certain size simply cannot penetrate.

Naturally, during operation, the filter gradually becomes clogged, the resistance to air flow increases, and the engine power decreases. At TO 2 (usually every 20,000 km), the filter is replaced with a new one.

The zero resistance filter looks like this:

It is made from special pressed fibers and works a little more complicated than its paper counterpart. The fibers are impregnated special liquid, the air passing through the filter tends to follow the path of least resistance (through the fibers) and the dust from the air sticks to the fibers due to special impregnation.

Yes, the zero resistance filter does provide less resistance. air flow, but if you skip, then, do not rinse the filter and do not soak it with a special liquid - all the dust will fly straight into the engine!

Advantages of the zero resistance filter:

  • reduced resistance to airflow at the intake
  • long service life (100,000 km or 20 flushes every 5,000 km)
  • most affordable tuning technical part

Cons of installing a zero resistance filter:

  • intake noise
  • the need for frequent maintenance
  • when a scheduled maintenance is missed, dust enters the engine, and it fails
  • the need to calculate the intake tract (on some injection engines)

Here is a rather entertaining video about zero-resistance filters:

Does it make sense to install a zero resistance air filter on a standard car?

For everyone modern cars the intake and exhaust tracts are designed for a certain operating mode and for a certain air flow and intake resistance. I think a lot of people have heard of "tune" intake and "tune" exhaust. The author of this article was previously engaged in the swap of Toyota engines in domestic auto industry. Specifically, we had a popular installation of the 1uz-fe engine in the Volga.

It looked something like this:

So - when we collected the intake ourselves, i.e. we used a standard Volgovsky filter and random configurations of air ducts, as a rule, the engine "ate" more than 20 liters of gasoline, but when a standard filter from Toyota was installed, the flow rate returned to normal.

This was due to the fact that the standard air flow and temperature measurement system could not work with a non-standard filter. Those. our replacement of the filter forced the engine control unit to make the fuel mixture richer, while the dynamics deteriorated and consumption increased.

Installing a zero resistance filter on an unprepared for this injection engine meaningless. For each specific engine, you need to calculate the consequences! And most importantly - if you forget to carry out maintenance on the filter, it will very quickly become unusable and begin to let dust into the engine, and then the dust will do its dirty work - and it will need an expensive overhaul.

Zero resistance filter and carbureted engine - does it make sense?

Colleagues, the carburetor works on the Bernoulli effect, i.e. the greater the difference in air pressure at the inlet and outlet of the carburetor, the better it will be able to dose the mixture (the range of operating pressures will expand), and any reduction in intake resistance is GOOD, engine power with carburetor system power at the transition is not a zero-resistance filter will rise! But don't forget to maintain the filter.

By the way, order zero resistance filter can be directly from the manufacturer.

That's all I have today. I hope that the article "zero resistance air filter pros and cons of use" fully disclosed the topic. If you have any questions or want to supplement the article - write comments.

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