10. Remove the spacer ring and brake disc from the hub.
11. Secure the hub in a vice. We apply light blows with a hammer in a circle through a drift on the outer ring of the inner bearing.
12. Press the ring out of the front support.
13. Having turned the hub in a vice, press out the outer bearing ring in the same way.

Assembling the front hub of a VAZ 2107 car
1. Wash all parts in kerosene or white spirit, apply grease to the hub bearing seats.
2. It is convenient to press the outer rings of the hub bearings in a vice, through wooden spacers, using rings from old bearings as mandrels, which we orient with a smaller cone diameter inside the hub. We press the new rings into the hub until they stop.
3. Apply Litol-24 grease or its analogues to the separator and the ring of the inner bearing of the hub. Place about 40 g of lubricant in the space between the hub bearings.
4. Install the inner bearing separator with rollers and inner ring into the hub, after applying lubricant to it.
5. Install the spacer bushing.
6. Using a hammer and a suitable tool (for example, a mounting blade or the outer ring of the old bearing), press a new oil seal into the hub.
7. We secure the brake disc with a spacer ring to the hub with two pins and install the hub on the steering knuckle axle.
8. Apply grease to the outer bearing cage, put the inner ring on the axle, install the washer and screw on the new hub nut.
9. Adjust the clearance in the hub bearings

Problems with the front hub of a VAZ 2107 can cause serious problems both with the wheel itself (increased tire wear) and with the brake pads and disc. The main cause of such problems may be a worn or damaged front wheel bearing.

Fault diagnosis

To check the wheel bearings of the VAZ 2107 front hub, you must perform the following steps:

• The front wheel is hung on a jack, having previously taken appropriate safety measures: putting the handbrake on, wheel chocks under the rear wheels;
• A reliable stop is installed under the lower arm and the car is removed from the jack. For additional safety, it is recommended to install a stop under the body to protect against a possible fall if the lever slips from the stop. This step is often overlooked, although it is very important for correct diagnosis.
• Holding the top and bottom of the wheel with your hands, make movements away from you/towards you. There should be no play or knocking.
• It is necessary to spin the wheel. If there are problems with the bearings, knocking, humming, and grinding noises may occur.

Bearing adjustment

Often, the resulting play can be eliminated by tightening the hub nut. To do this, you need to completely tighten the nut, then gradually loosen it until the wheel begins to spin freely, and there is absolutely no play. Such adjustment is possible with slight wear of the bearing.

Replacing bearings

The procedure is no more complicated than others associated with repairing a VAZ 2107 car. After hanging it on a jack and removing the wheel, the replacement is performed directly. First, remove the caliper by unscrewing its mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the brake hose; it is enough to carefully hang the caliper so that it does not interfere with operation.

Next, you need to use a flat-head screwdriver to pry up the cap covering the nut and remove it. By unscrewing the hub nut and removing the washer and separator, you can remove the hub with the brake disc. Then everything is simple:

• We take out the oil seal;
• Remove the separator;
• We take out the ring separating the inner and outer bearing;
• Using an extension the right size and using a regular hammer we knock out both clips.

Installing new bearings and assembling the hub occurs in the reverse order. Before assembly, it is necessary to remove old grease by thoroughly washing all parts.

• We press in the races of new bearings;
• Lubricate and install the internal separator;
• Insert the ring;
• Press in the oil seal.

All that remains is to put the hub in place and screw the caliper. After inserting the pre-lubricated outer bearing cage and thrust ring into place, tighten the hub nut until it stops. By gradually loosening the nut, we achieve free rotation of the wheel with no backlash at all. Thus, the bearing operates in normal mode, which means it is in this position that the nut needs to be locked.

We remove the used lubricant from the protective cap and apply new one, after which we put it on the hub. We put the wheel in place and screw it on, and remove the car from the jack. The job is done, the fault has been successfully fixed, the replacement has been completed. After a short run, it is recommended to check the hub for play and, if necessary, adjust it.

So, today we’ll talk about replacing the front bearings on VAZ cars of the classic family, I’ll say right away that it’s not difficult to do, any car owner can do it without the use of special tools.

It is quite easy to determine if the front wheel bearings are unusable; the main signs of a malfunction are:

• Inability to adjust the axial clearance of the wheel, the nut is tightened, the wheel still wobbles
• The bearing hums, this usually occurs at certain speeds, then it can quiet down and also change its intensity during turns.
• The wheel turns in a clicking manner; you can check by jacking up the car and turning the wheel with your hand.
• Also various grinding, creaking, squealing, etc.

To replace the front wheel bearing of VAZ cars you will need:

• New bearings, preferably not the cheapest ones
• Front hub oil seal
• Solid oil
• Gasoline or solvent, washing brush

We start replacing the front wheel bearing by removing the wheel and placing the car on a support, I always do this, I don’t like leaving the car on a jack, it’s too unstable.

Next, you need to unscrew the two screws securing the brake caliper, for this you will need a socket wrench or a 17-mm socket, if everything is done as it should be, then these screws are secured with a washer; first you need to bend it. Now you need to carefully, without straining the brake hose too much, remove the caliper and place it on the lever.

If the brake pads are in the way, you need to move them apart with a screwdriver or similar object.

Next, remove the cap that covers the adjusting nut and bearings front wheel, in the photo above I have already taken it off. Next, using a 27 wrench (I think, I don’t remember exactly) we unscrew the front hub nut, there are some nuances here:

These nuts have different threads on both sides, on the left wheel (near the driver's door) the thread is normal, on the right wheel there is a left-hand thread. It is also recommended that when removing the nut, replace it with a new one.

Unscrew the nut and remove the washer with the tooth that is located under it.

Remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, then remove the brake disc itself. I took everything off and laid it out on newspaper:

Here I want to note that I will only wash the hub and bearings, since after inspection I did not see or hear the need for replacement. If you change the bearing, then all you have to do is use a tool to knock out the outer races of the bearings; you don’t need to throw them far, since with their help we will forget the new races.

After removing the clips, you must thoroughly wash all the dirt and old grease from inside the hub. If this is not done, then the new bearings will not last long, because it is no secret that sand is an excellent abrasive. I don’t change the bearings, but I wash both the bearings themselves and the inside of the hub with the outer races.

It is also necessary to wash the steering knuckle shaft, the one on which the bearings are fitted with an internal race.

The hub bearing is the main element of the wheel. It is this that allows the wheel to rotate. It is subject to very high loads and, like any part, it fails. This is a “tenacious” element of the car, but it also has a resource.

Signs of a faulty front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2109

• The sound is similar to a crunch when moving in a straight line. It will be heard both on the street and in the cabin.
• Vibration on the steering wheel. This symptom appears when the bearing is severely worn. There is a very high probability of a wheel wedge, which can lead to an accident.
• The car pulls to the side. The bearing seems to be shaking the wheel
• If play appears when rocking the wheel by hand. Clicks will also be heard.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of VAZ 2109 2110 with these symptoms is inevitable.

Video on replacing the front wheel bearing

1. Remove the hub cap.

2. Using a chisel, straighten the dented flange of the bearing nut in two places.

3. Tighten hand brake, engage 1st gear and place chocks under the wheels.

4. Use a socket or a 30mm spanner to loosen the bearing nut. It is tightened very tightly, so the head or key must be strong so as not to bend or break. Use a long lever to loosen the nut (piece of pipe).

5. Loosen the wheel bolts.

6. Raise the front wheels, in this case the stabilizer lateral stability will not interfere with repairs. It is also possible to lift only the wheel on which the repair will be carried out. In this case, use a pry bar to press out the suspension elements. Place a safety support under the car next to the jacks (a stump or something similar). During repairs, sometimes considerable effort will be applied, and if the jack falls off, the support will hold the car.

7. Remove the wheel, guide brake pads with caliper and brake disc.

8. Tie the brake pad guide together with the caliper so that they do not hang on brake hose and did not damage it.
9. Completely unscrew the bearing nut and remove the washer.

10. Insert bolts approximately 135mm long and with M12 x1.25mm thread into two diametrically opposite holes in the brake disc. Fastening bolts are suitable, heads that are on the “classics” (2106, 2107, etc.)
11. Return these bolts to the holes of the hub (opposite each other) to its full thickness
12. Driving the brake disc sharply along the bolts, as if along guides, hit the bolt heads with it and thereby remove the hub.

13. Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (Replacing the ball joint) and remove the CV joint (grenade) from the bearing hole.


14. Using pliers, remove the retaining ring.


15. Using a puller, press the bearing into the cup, which is located outside the steering knuckle, while the bolt presses on the inner race of the bearing through the washer from inside the knuckle.


Bearing puller

16. If there is no puller, then you can remove the bearing race from the hub (see paragraph 17) (although this is also not so easy, and without a puller, but of a different type, it is even more difficult) and inserting it into the hole where the bearing is located, use the narrow part to hit something metal.

17. As a rule, after pressing out the hub, a bearing ring (cage) usually remains on it. To remove it, you need a puller. If it is not there, then pry it with a screwdriver and remove the dirt ring...



18...move the bearing ring with a chisel.

19. When you remove the ring, smooth out the burrs from the chisel with a needle file.

20. Install the mud ring and screw it onto the hub.

21. Clean and lubricate the inner surface of the steering knuckle.
22. Using a puller, press the new bearing into the steering knuckle. In this case, the large puller washer should rest on the steering knuckle from the inside so as not to damage its mud rings, and when pressing, the new bearing can be pressed through the old bearing, which will transmit force only through the outer ring.

Install the retaining ring.
23. Using a puller, press the hub into the bearing; pre-lubricate the hole with oil or WD-40. Now the puller washers rest against the inner ring of the bearing and the hub.

If you don’t have a puller, then hammer the hub a little and pull out the end of the CV joint so that you can attach the hub nut. By rotating the nut, you will tighten the CV joint on the hub, like a puller. Hold the bearing with inside steering knuckle.

Only tighten the hub nut fully when the wheel is on the ground. Don't forget to bend the collar onto the nut. Replacing the front wheel bearing of VAZ 2109 2110 is completed

The main thing that any driver should focus on is safety on the road and this concerns not only compliance with the rules traffic. Not the least role in avoiding possible emergency situations plays technical condition vehicle, which is why it is so important for any car owner to notice and eliminate any malfunctions in a timely manner. First of all, this statement concerns the details chassis system, which includes the front hubs and rear wheels. We already discussed the topic of proper operation of the latter a little earlier, and today we’ll talk about eliminating problems in the front hub.

1. Causes of hub failure: why does it heat up?

Determine malfunctions of the vehicle's chassis system, experienced driver will be able to based on characteristic features such as:

Uneven wear of tire treads;

Excessive body sway when turning or braking; frequent deviation of the machine from straight-line movement;

Leakage and compression of shock absorbers; increased level vibrations; the appearance of extraneous sounds accompanying the movement of the vehicle.

The causes of such phenomena are usually severe wear of individual parts of the system, improper fastening of shock absorbers, and serious errors in wheel alignment adjustment. Also, at front wheel drive cars, most vulnerable spot is the front wheel hub, heavy loads on which affect its operating condition and performance.

Failure of this part is a fairly common problem, especially considering the quality of the road surface in our country. It secures the wheel, which, due to the rotation of the grenade, causes the hub itself to move. Also, in addition to the wheel rim, they are attached to ball joints and brake disc. Considering the specific design of the hub, it is impossible to immediately determine what exactly is wrong with it, since there may be several causes of breakdowns. However, it is very difficult not to notice the problem, since all the faults are quite noticeable. For example, the first sign of failure of this part is the appearance of an unpleasant sound (hum) during movement, the intensity of which can vary depending on the driving speed and braking force. But even an experienced driver will not always be able to understand which side of the vehicle the problem is on, therefore, for full diagnostics It is better to jack up the car and manually turn both wheels.

A fairly common manifestation of front wheel hub malfunctions is also increased wear of the rubber, causing strong vibration radiating into the steering wheel (at speeds of 80-120 km/h) and heating of the brake disc, which is overloaded due to an improperly rotating bearing. You can feel the heating of the disc simply by placing your hand on it. If you drive 8-10 km. (without intensive braking) the hub has heated up so that it is impossible to touch it (over 70 degrees), then the problem may be hidden in a bearing that is too tight, in which case it is better not to press it than to compress it. However, there are other factors that influence the occurrence of such a problem. Sometimes damage to some part of the bearing or insufficient lubrication will lead to the same result.

In order to approximately determine a failed bearing, it is not at all necessary to stop the car; it is enough to pay attention to the intensity of the hum when turning the steering wheel: when turning in right side- the strength of the “buzz” in the left wheel will increase, and when turning left, in the right one.

DIY front wheel hub repair

And so, after diagnosing the problem and accurately determining its cause (the hub has completely failed), the logical decision will be to begin repairs. Carrying out repair work, in this case, includes adjusting the bearing mounting or, more often, replacing it completely. To implement your plans, you can turn to service station employees for help, where they will also conduct a full assessment of the condition of the chassis system. But there are times when the station maintenance is very far away, but the problem needs to be solved immediately, what to do then? The answer is obvious: carry out repairs yourself, which is quite possible at home.

First of all, it is worth preparing the tools necessary for this procedure. In most cases, a simple set will be sufficient, including various wrenches with heads, a circlip puller, a vice, a cup puller, screwdrivers, hammers, a chisel, and also a jack, without which you will not be able to lift the desired side of the car (of course, if there is an electric lift lying around somewhere in the garage). In addition to the jack, it is recommended to provide the body additional stop in the form of wooden blocks or other supports that are used for greater safety (if the car suddenly jumps off). In addition, it is necessary to purchase new replacement parts: the entire hub or just its bearing, which depends on the degree of wear and the heating force. In other words: we change the most problematic part.

The availability of a spare part that is suitable for you in the auto shop, first of all, depends on the brand of the vehicle. Naturally, it is much easier for VAZ owners to choose the right part than for car enthusiasts who have a foreign car in their garage latest model. True, it seems to me that the latter are not at all concerned with the issue of replacing the front wheel hub, but this is not important now. In general, the simpler the car, the greater your chances of quickly purchasing a replacement for a failed hub. However, if it is still not in stock, then, as always, the Internet comes to the rescue, and with delivery (especially in major cities) there shouldn't be any problems. Changing a heated hub bearing should be done carefully and carefully, as this will seriously affect the subsequent operation of the vehicle's chassis. We will now tell you how to carry out this procedure correctly.

How to replace or repair parts

After carrying out the preparatory work and equipping yourself with everything necessary, you can proceed directly to replacing the broken part. To begin with, the side needed for work is “jacked up”, and for the purpose additional insurance, install supports (anti-roll stops can be placed under the rear wheels). Then, you should set the gearbox to first gear and put the car on the handbrake. Now, using a wrench, you can loosen the wheel bolts and unscrew the wheel bearing nut (if the wheels are alloy, you will have to immediately remove the wheel, then ask someone to press the “brake” and then unscrew the hub nut).

Sometimes it happens that the nut on granite is too tight and you can’t get it off with a wrench... To solve this problem, you can use one proven method of unscrewing such parts. Its essence is to drill through the side of the jammed nut. They do this in such a way that they can drill out its edge all the way to the thread, after which they open the part with a blunt chisel and easily unscrew it.

After completing the described procedures, you need to remove the front wheel and use a wide screwdriver to remove the protective cap of the hub. Next, the caliper is removed from the brake disc: the drum, together with the stand, is turned towards itself and the fastening bolts are unscrewed, after which, so that the caliper does not interfere, it is moved to the side or tied up. At the next stage, the ball joints and steering ends are removed, but before starting, they should be treated with a rust-removing substance - this will greatly facilitate the unscrewing process.

To remove the brake disc, just unscrew the two bolts screwed into the hub, and after them, do the same with the central nut. First, you can try to carry out this action using a wrench, and if you can’t turn it, then you’ll have to use a chisel, especially since the design of the nut seems to be created for this: it has a groove that allows you to insert it. At subsequent stages, the rack is unscrewed and the hub is removed, after which you can begin to repair it.

In the vast majority of cases, it is the bearing that fails, which means the repair will be based on the procedure for replacing it. Based on this, further work can take one of three paths. The first way involves replacing the part using a puller, without removing the steering knuckle from the car; the second, on the contrary, requires its dismantling, after which the bearing is changed on a workbench (a vice and a puller are used), and when using the third method, the stand is removed entirely and the bearing is replaced using a vice. Each of the described options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

So, for example, the advantage of the first method of replacing the hub bearing is that there is no need to touch the camber adjustment bolt, but at the same time, the working process will not be so convenient, especially in the absence of a lift or inspection hole, since it will be extremely difficult to knock out the hub and press in the bearing. problematic. Replacing the front wheel hub bearing using the second method is much easier and more convenient, but there is a risk of disrupting the car's camber adjustment. Therefore, before unscrewing the steering knuckle bolts, you need to note its position to the rack, as well as the position of the adjusting bolt. When reassembling, such marks will help to achieve minimal error. This method will be especially useful for those who not only change the bearing, but also do other repairs to the chassis: replacing ball joints, steering ends, silent blocks, etc.

The third method can be called the most labor-intensive way to replace a bearing, because in order to remove the strut you have to unpress the steering tip and unscrew the fastening of the upper support, and after that, on the removed strut, you can replace the part.

Another point that is worth paying attention to when dismantling the old wheel bearing is its removal (knocking out). Such actions should be carried out extremely carefully to avoid damage to the socket and the mechanism. If you can’t get it out manually, then you should try to do the work on a pressing machine, but again, try not to damage the corkscrew ring, because it is not always included with a new spare part.

Pay attention! When dismantling, the front hub bearing completely falls apart, so you shouldn’t even try to keep it intact, but as for the similar part of the rear hub, it is much easier to remove and lasts much longer.

After installing the new part, reassemble everything in the reverse order and you can go to the nearest service station, where its employees will perform an alignment of the wheels of your vehicle, since after removing the steering rod (if it was done), the previous settings were definitely lost.

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Wheel hub - everything about it.

The wheel hub of a car, motorcycle, or other vehicle is undoubtedly one of the important parts, the task of which is to secure the wheels, allow them to rotate around their axis, and in general, the hub is a part that connects the wheel with the suspension and with everything vehicle. This article, aimed more at beginners, will describe in detail everything related to the hub, and will also provide links to other useful articles that also describe the wheel hub, its repair, or maintenance.

Wheel hub - purpose.

In simple terms, a wheel hub is a bearing assembly that connects the wheel to the steering and suspension parts of a car or motorcycle.

The wheel hub is designed for:

• securing the wheel through wheel bolts (or studs and nuts).
• fastening the brake disc (or drum).
• pressing in the wheel bearing.
• attaching the wheel to the steering knuckle axis (through the hub).
• rotation of the wheel.
• mounting an ABS sensor, or a pulse perforated disc (on some cars - it is shown in the photo below.).
• In addition to some of the important tasks described above for which the wheel hub is intended, another equally important one should be noted - the transmission of enormous torque from the transmission mechanism to the drive wheels and thus the rotation of the wheels to move the vehicle.

The transmission of large torque on cars is carried out through axle shafts to the hub and wheel (wheels), and on a motorcycle through a sprocket or rear axle, which, like the axle shafts of cars, are attached to the hub of the drive wheel (via splines or bolts).

And now in more detail about the structure and purpose of the parts of the wheel hub.

The wheel hub (as seen in the photo just above and the figure below) is a cylindrical part with a flat outer surface, made of steel, in which several holes are drilled.

The wheel hub is made of durable alloy steel and is itself a fairly durable part that practically does not fail for many years. Of course, if the car was not involved in an accident and did not experience a strong impact in the wheel area.

Wheel hub with perforated disc for impulse ABS sensor

Under normal operating conditions without accidents, the hub needs to be replaced only when the wheel bearing seat is loose and the outer outer race of the bearing rotates.

But there’s no need to rush here and you shouldn’t send your hub to scrap metal, since mounting hole it is quite possible to restore it in the hub, and we read in detail how to do this here. If the hub is significantly damaged, for example after an accident, then I wrote in detail how to replace it in this article.

Also, do not rush to make a replacement if the threaded holes of the wheel bolts or studs are worn out. After all, the thread can always be restored if you cut it to a larger number, and although you will have to buy a set of bolts (or studs) of a slightly larger diameter, it will be much cheaper than buying a new hub. In addition, it is better to buy secret special bolts (more about them here).

Well, after restoring the threads, the holes for the bolts in wheel rim you'll have to drill it out a little. But such repairs will add strength, because the larger the diameter of the bolts or studs (and the larger the diameter of their threads), the stronger the fastening of your wheel will be.

As can be seen from the photos and drawings and photographs, the wheel hub of a car has an outer perfectly flat plane in which there are threaded holes (4, 6, or 8 per large cars, and on trucks it may be more). Threaded holes are designed for screwing in studs or bolts that press the wheel rim to the outer plane of the hub and hold the wheel.

wheel hub - the structure of the hub and the car parts mating to it: 1 boot, 2 - double-row maintenance-free bearing, 3 - the wheel hub itself, 4 - washer, 5 - nut, 6 - ring, 7 - cover, 8 bearing retaining ring, 9 - steering knuckle with axle.

Also, on the outer plane of the hub, as a rule, two guide pins are pressed in, which greatly facilitate the installation of the wheel; also, to facilitate the installation of the wheel, there is an annular conical protrusion in the center of the outer part of the hub, which serves to tightly fit the central hole in the wheel disk.

It is also worth noting that the internal mounting hole in the center of the hub is seat for pressing in the wheel bearing (wheel bearing), which is the basis for successful rotation of the wheel. For more modern cars On motorcycles, non-adjustable closed-type roller bearings are installed, and on older machines, adjustable tapered roller bearings were installed (read more about the wheel bearing and its replacement here).

But it is quite possible to remake the hub for more modern maintenance-free double-row bearings (instead of conical adjustable single-row ones), and I wrote in detail how to do this in this article.

wheel hub device with disc and drum

As you can see from the picture on the left, a hub designed for a disc brake is not much different from a hub designed to mount a brake drum rather than a brake disc.

Also in the center of the wheel hub there is a splined hole into which the axle shaft of the constant velocity joint (CV joint) is inserted on the drive wheels of front-wheel drive cars. There is also a splined hole (for a longer axle shaft) in the hub of the rear wheels of rear-wheel drive cars - their axle shaft connects the rear axle with the driving rear wheels, again through a splined hole in the hubs of the rear wheels.

The difference between a car wheel hub and a motorcycle hub is that the car hub is connected to the rim through rim, and on a motorcycle the hub is connected to the rim through motorcycle spokes. Although for more modern motorcycles(with cast wheels) there are no classic spokes on the wheels and the wheel is not much different from the wheel of a car, well, only lighter weight and fastening for driven sprocket(for motorcycle chain).

Well, a motorcycle hub is, of course, lighter in weight, especially a hub designed for a classic spoked motorcycle wheel. On many modern motorcycles (even with spokes, for example on the Yamaha Drag Star), the hubs are made of light alloys and are very light in weight, but have sufficient strength. And on motorcycles with a cardan drive in the hub (as in the hub of a car), there are also splines in the central hole for connection to the drive spline shaft coming out of rear axle.

Wheel hubs sports cars.

In past years, in the design of wheel hubs sports cars and motorcycles, they first used steel, then magnesium alloys, which did not have the best strength and rigidity, and a little later they began to use processed titanium, or more expensive lithium-aluminum alloys. But titanium still ranks first in terms of strength, although it is heavier than aluminum alloys.

Quick release wheel removal system for formula 1 cars

Unlike ordinary cars, some sports cars (including Formula 1 cars) have an axle itself, machined from titanium or durable alloy steel, that rotates in a bearing. A splined cone is attached to the axle, to which a brake disc made of carbon fiber is then attached. And through the spline cone braking force transmitted to the axle.

At the end of the axle there is a special thread cut for screwing on one single wheel nut. Well, the drive of the wheel is transmitted through special strong pins that are attached to the axle and which, when quickly installing the wheel (at a pit stop), go into holes specially designed for pins in the wheel. On some machines, the pins, on the contrary, are attached to the wheel rim itself, and when installing the wheel, the pins enter the holes intended for them in the axle flange.

Such a system allows you to replace a wheel at a pit stop in just over two seconds, and the design described above does not allow mechanics to make even the slightest mistakes and waste time. In this case, the car wheel should immediately sit on the axle, and the central wheel nut should be tightened instantly.

wheel hub

The nut thread itself is quite powerful and has a diameter of up to 75 mm, and modern wheel nuts have not a hexagonal, but a polygonal toothed shape (see photo on the left) and when the nut is clamped after quickly replacing the wheel, these teeth are easily inserted into special grooves in the head of a powerful impact wrench, shown in the photo on the right.

Also, the wheel mounting system of sports cars and motorcycles includes special safety devices that prevent the wheel from slipping off the axle if the wheel nut suddenly becomes unscrewed during a race. But safety devices do not always work and their design is still constantly being improved.

That seems to be all that is connected with the wheel hub and I hope this article will be useful to beginners, good luck to everyone.

suvorov-custom.ru

What is a car hub?

When we talk about a car, the first function we think about is, of course, movement. The power of the engine, the perfect operation of the gearbox, the precise and responsive steering of the car have no meaning if all this cannot be turned into rotation of the wheels. They are constantly in contact with the road surface, overcoming frictional resistance under the weight of the car. Of course, they must be securely and firmly fastened.

Important detail

The transmission “removes” power from the engine and transmits it to the drive wheels through the shafts. If you've ever changed a wheel (and you probably have), you've probably seen that it's not bolted directly to the shaft or axle. Speaking about what a hub is, we can just refer to your experience: the part to which you screw the wheel is what it is. The second part of the wheel hub, hidden from your eyes, is attached to the shaft. However, the design of the front wheel hub is a little more complex than it seems at first glance.

The hub in a car should not simply duplicate the rotation of the shaft. Otherwise, manufacturers would not complicate the design and simply change its shape. It is mounted on the shaft housing and attached to its rotating part, transmitting its rotation to the wheels using ball bearings. This allows you to remove some of the load from the wheel during braking and acceleration.

The wheel hub is constantly under load, temperature regime its work is not constant, and the impulse is extremely rarely distributed evenly. It is not surprising that materials such as aluminum and carbon that are so popular in the automotive industry these days are still rejected by engineers. They may have any wonderful properties, but as long as they are not able to work in such conditions, they are not competitors to cast iron and steel.

How to break cast iron

Of course, anyone who sees a wheel hub for the first time will have a similar question. But, as we said above, its structure is not at all as simple as it seems at first glance. The most common cause of a car's hub failure lies in excessive zeal when replacing wheels. A bolt that is tightened too tightly breaks off, and now while driving you can hear the hum of the bearing. This means that the hub will have to be replaced. If you take into account that, in addition to the wheel, a brake disc is also attached to the hub, then you need to go to the garage with this sound immediately. As a rule, a broken hub is not a critical malfunction, but you still shouldn’t pull it. The rear wheel hub in this regard is not much different from the front.

In addition, break the hub (big hello Russian roads) is also possible when driving fast over uneven surfaces. It is especially harmful for this part to drive on such surfaces with an overload and without reducing speed. More exotic cases include skidding and generally aggressive driving with fast acceleration and sharp braking from high speeds. Impaired balance can also be a factor. For example, when you fall into the mud, the hub is in a high-risk area.

Conclusion

In a car that must be safe to drive, there are quite a lot of critical parts in this regard. Each of them needs to be monitored and promptly replaced or repaired. The wheel hub is just a prominent representative of such parts. Her work may not be so visible, but her role cannot be overestimated. A lot depends on its proper service, so you need to listen to whether the bearing is noisy when turning and moving.

Remember that the more carefully and prudently you drive, the safer you will be. Even a small bump does not leave your car without consequences, and regular driving on bad roads with high speed Optimistically, it will force you to deal with expensive repairs. To avoid this, be careful and careful while driving.

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Car device



The rim is used for installation pneumatic tire. According to the profile, the rim can be deep, non-separable (Fig. 1), which is used on passenger cars, and flat, collapsible (Fig. 2), which is installed on most medium-duty trucks (for example, ZIL, GAZ brands, etc.) .

To facilitate the installation and dismantling of the tire, a recess B is made in the middle part of the deep rim. On both sides of the rim there are conical landing shelves on which the tire beads are mounted. Tilts of the landing flanges at an angle of approximately 5˚ ensure a tight fit of the tire on the rim.

Rim for tubeless tire must have on its landing flanges special annular projections 4 (Fig. 1) of a toroidal shape (“hamps”), which prevent spontaneous slipping of the tire beads (self-unfolding) in the event of a critical situation while driving.

Among the dismountable rims, the most common is the rim with a conical landing flange (Fig. 2). This rim is characterized by the comparative ease of installation and removal of truck tires, which have large masses, dimensions and rigidity. Bead ring 1 has a conical landing flange, which is pressed against the tire bead. Spring spacer ring 2 is installed between the rim and the bead ring, fixing the latter.

Wide-profile tires, arched and with adjustable pressure have dismountable rims with spacer rings. The spacer ring is installed in the center of the flat rim and ensures reliable clamping of the tire beads between it and the rim flanges, which prevents the tire from turning on the rim when the pressure in it decreases.

Wheel hub

The hub is structurally integrated with the vehicle's axle, but is traditionally considered an element of the wheel. It serves to install the wheel on the bridge beam and ensure its rotation. The hub is mounted on the axle using tapered roller or ball (on some passenger cars) bearings. It is also attached to brake drums and flanges of axle shafts of truck drive axles.

The front wheel hub shown in Figure 3 is installed in steering knuckle 10 on two tapered roller bearings 1. The outer rings (cages) of the bearings are pressed into the hub, and the inner rings are installed in the journal 5. The adjusting nut 3 through the washer 4 provides the standard clearance in the bearings. The bearings are lubricated during assembly, and to protect them from dust and dirt, a sealing collar is pressed into the hub from the inside, and a protective cap 2 is installed from the outside.

The hub of the front wheels of a front-wheel drive passenger car is installed in the steering knuckle on a closed double-row ball bearing. The bearing is secured in the steering knuckle with retaining rings. The hub is connected using internal splines to the shank of the external hinge housing of the front wheel drive and is secured to it with a nut, which is closed with a plastic cap.

The brake disc is attached to the hub with guide pins. The pins center the wheel relative to the hub, which is attached to it with spherical bolts. The same bolts secure the brake disc to the hub.

Rear wheel hub for rear wheel drive vehicles passenger cars usually absent. It is replaced by a flange of the axle shaft, which is mounted on bearings in the bridge beam.



The wheel connector is usually made in the form of a disk. Such wheels are called disc wheels. To increase rigidity, stamped steel disk 1 (Fig. 1) is made curved with notches B or holes B. Cutouts and holes lighten the wheel and improve cooling of the brake mechanisms. Holes A for mounting the wheel have spherical chamfers. Fastening is done using spherical bolts or spherical nuts.

Discless wheels have a connector made together with the hub. They can be detachable in the longitudinal and transverse planes. Without disc wheel(Fig. 4) with a connector in the transverse plane consists of three sectors 1, which are connected into a single ring using special cutouts (bevels) made at the ends of sectors 1. During installation, the wheel sectors are installed in a certain sequence into the lying tire, and then together with the tire are attached to the hub 2 with special clamps 3, studs 4 and nuts 5. Such wheels are installed on trucks and buses.

According to the manufacturing technology, passenger car wheels can be conventional welded steel (from a rolled rim and a stamped disk), cast or forged.

Cast wheels are made from an aluminum-silicon alloy by grinding the seating surfaces of the castings and drilling holes in them. The main advantage of cast wheels is their low weight. The low weight of the wheel has a positive effect on the smooth running of the vehicle and facilitates its maintenance. In addition, the use of cast wheels allows for more efficient cooling of the wheel brakes.
The disadvantages of cast wheels are excessively thick walls, the possibility of hidden pores and cavities, insufficient strength under impact loads and difficulty in repairing damage.

Forged wheels are made using the forging method followed by processing. In forging (or die forging), a forging is forged from a workpiece, which is then processed on a lathe. This technology is complex and expensive, however forged wheels stronger and lighter than cast ones. For example, a 13-inch forged wheel weighs approximately 4.5 kg, while a cast wheel of the same size weighs almost 6 kg. At the same time, the wall thickness of a forged wheel is 3 mm, and that of a cast wheel is 5.5 mm. An important advantage of forged wheels is their greater resistance to impact loads.

The main dimensions of the wheel rim are: tire diameter and width. For example, a regular disc wheel for a VAZ-2109 car is designated as 114J-330 (in millimeters) or 4 1/2J-13 (in inches). The first numbers indicate the width of the rim, the letter J indicates the shape of the rim profile, and the last numbers indicate the mounting diameter of the wheel.

Alloy wheels, cast or forged, usually have an inch designation. For example, the wheel of a VAZ-2110 car is designated 5 1/2J13Н2, where additional marking H2 means the presence of “hamps” of a certain profile on the rim.

Because wheels and tires are manufactured to close tolerances, the wheel assembly may exhibit significant imbalance, resulting in axial and radial runout when the wheel rotates. As a result, vibration increases, the service life of tires, shock absorbers, steering is reduced, ride comfort decreases, etc. To eliminate wheel imbalance, they are balanced on special balancing stands, with balancing weights secured in certain places. This is especially true for cars traveling at high speeds, since the inertial imbalance loads increase as a quadratic function of the wheel speed.

Car bodies



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Front wheel hub for VAZ 2110

If, while operating the vehicle, problems are identified with chassis, this is a reason to take urgent measures to eliminate the malfunction. A suspension failure can lead to unpredictable consequences, including an accident. In this sense, the front hub is a very important component in a car that requires special attention.