How to change the stabilizer bushing. How to change stabilizer bushings on different car models? When to replace front stabilizer bar bushings

The chassis of a car is a part, certain elements of which directly ensure safety, so its condition must be in perfect condition. One of the parts of the above-mentioned structure is the stabilizer, which includes a so-called bushing. It is an important structural part.

There are two types of bushings: spherical and rubber. This article is presented for those whose car needs emergency technical assistance in the following areas:

Replacing rear bushings.

Signs of wear

The spherical bushing is similar in design parameters to a ball joint. Naturally, by analogy with the latter, it tends to wear out and, accordingly, become inoperative or unsuitable for functioning. In addition, it should be noted that traveling with worn-out (even if functioning) elements of the vehicle’s chassis is extremely unsafe, and therefore, if the stabilizer bushing breaks, lateral stability there is a need to replace it. In the event of a further trip with a bushing that has become unusable, the driver will definitely notice this, since according to his individual feelings, driving the car will be significantly more difficult.

In most cases, when the stabilizer bushing is worn out, certain noises are heard in the suspension area, and with increasing speed they intensify significantly, and, accordingly, when driving over road irregularities (potholes and potholes), the noises acquire a clear sound in the form of impacts. And if you are an attentive driver and did not miss the extraneous sound and temporary uncontrollability of the car, then you will find out the probable cause of this situation. Thus, in order to prevent suspensions and bushings from reaching such a state, it is necessary to carry out scheduled technical inspections of all parts of the structure, and the bushing is subject to the most careful diagnostics.

An easy three-step process

If, based on the diagnostic results or while driving, you conclude that the bushing has become unusable, then you should not delay the repair. It must be replaced immediately. In this case, you don’t even have to go to a car service center for this purpose: replacing the rear stabilizer bushings, just like the front ones, is a completely simple process, and it can be done on our own without even resorting to the help of strangers. Removal worn bushings and replacing them with new ones is done in three steps:

  • Unscrew the bolts that secure the clamp.
  • Move the stabilizer to the side. This position makes it possible to conduct a thorough assessment of its condition and remember the features of the original internal structure in order to avoid incorrect installation of elements after repair.
  • In this situation, it is easy to remove old bushings that have become unusable from the stabilizer and install new ones.

Benefits of timely replacement

Replacing stabilizer bushings cannot create any difficulties at all for a driver who decides to carry out the repairs on his own. All processes are completely accessible for manual execution, however, when there is no ability or desire to carry them out without the help of third parties, it is recommended to contact a car service. Replacing the anti-roll bar bushings will enable the car owner to protect the struts from early wear.

Driving with new bushings allows you to avoid difficulties during traffic, especially when it comes to driving on poor-quality roads. And in general, a new hub means comfortable and safe driving.

List of necessary tools

You definitely need to have the following set of tools:

  • new bushings;
  • To unscrew the subframe bolt, you need a 24-size open-end wrench;
  • keys for 17 and 15;
  • to remove screws from the motor protection - a 10mm wrench;
  • for fastening bolts - a 13 key;
  • clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced;
  • anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40;
  • graphite lubricant;
  • jack.

When planning to replace just the bushings, it is recommended to leave marks before removing the rod. This is necessary in order to immediately install them exactly in the place where they were previously, because it is extremely difficult to move new bushings along the surface of the rod due to their elasticity.

For convenient installation, it is recommended to lubricate the surface inside the bushing with a soap solution.

Step-by-step algorithm

A step-by-step algorithm for the process in which the anti-roll bar bushings are replaced:

The car must be placed on an inspection pit or on some other device to raise the front end.

Using a socket wrench (30mm), unscrew the nuts (2 pieces each) securing the bushing cage and the ends of the stabilizer to the suspension arms. Pry the rod with a small spatula (assembly one), then remove the cage from the studs, carefully moving it in the side direction.

Remove the rubber bushing from the rod end. Carry out the procedure in a similar way on the opposite side.

Remove the stabilizer by unscrewing the nuts securing the brackets to the body side members (2 nuts on both sides).

To replace the bushings, clamp the shank of the holder using a vice, then twist the rod and tighten the rubber bushing.

Put on new bushings, and it is necessary to orient them according to the marked marks.

Perform the following installation in reverse order.

Replacing the front stabilizer bushings follows a similar process as replacing the rear ones.

Replacing a bushing on a Toyota

If you plan to replace the Toyota stabilizer bushing, then first you need to remove the wheels. For this purpose, the front wheel nuts are loosened. Then you need to gradually lift the front of the car to firmly install it on axle supports. Must be tightened immediately hand brake and block the rear wheels to prevent the car from rocking. Separate the stabilizer link. For this purpose, use a universal wrench to prevent the rack from spinning, otherwise the ball joint may rotate together with the nut. Later remove the existing bushing clamps.

After disconnecting the stabilizer, the bushings themselves are removed, subjected to external inspection and, if there are defects, they must be replaced with new ones, which are recommended to be lubricated beforehand vegetable oil on each side. This makes assembly much easier. It is necessary to pay attention to the cuts of the bushing, they must be turned towards the rear of the machine, and the mark, accordingly, must be with outside. Next, assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Replacing the Kia stabilizer bushing

Replacing Kia stabilizer bushings involves the following algorithm:

Raise the front of the car and remove the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt.

Using a jack, lift the gearbox, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe.

To simplify access to rear airbags Four bolts are removed to secure the subframe.

Raise the front part of the subframe using a jack.

Remove the fastening and treat it with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal.

Screw them into place only four to five turns. This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform tightening of the plane.

Loosen the jack to a level where you can reach the bushing bolts.

Bushing with right side can be easily unscrewed through engine compartment, and on the left side - from below.

Insert staples. This procedure is carried out in a careful manner so as not to damage the clamp on the steering boot.

The process is repeated in reverse order.

The peculiarity of the Kia Sid car is that the steering shaft has a telescopic appearance, and therefore its installation occurs at the last moment.

Replacing the stabilizer bushing on a Nissan

It should be noted that replacing the Nissan stabilizer bushing is carried out in the same sequence as a similar procedure on another passenger car.

The procedure must be carried out in a timely manner, then more complex breakdowns in the vehicle’s chassis can be avoided.

However, as in other car models, the purpose of replacing structural elements of car systems that have become unusable is to create safe driving conditions.

Anti-roll bar bushings are an integral element of the system that ensures lateral stability of the vehicle in corners. During a turn, centrifugal force tends to tilt the body in the opposite side, and the stabilizer torsion bar, attached to the body and suspension using bushings, resists such influence. Over time, bushings wear out, break down and become unusable, after which they must be replaced. We will talk about how to determine whether bushings require replacement and how to change them.

What are bushings for?

The anti-roll bar works on the principle of a torsion bar - a twisting beam, due to which a change in the height of the right wheel relative to the left leads to twisting of the steel rod from which the stabilizer is made. The purpose of the bushings is not only to secure the stabilizer to the body, but also to reduce the noise of the entire system. The rubber or polyurethane from which the bushings are made has good strength and elasticity, due to which changes in the height of one of the wheels of the axle occur without knocking or squeaking. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the suspension and body due to the fact that as it bends, the distance from the edge of the stabilizer to the place where the suspension is attached changes. Very often, faulty bushings make various sounds - knocking, squeaking, especially when driving speed bumps or in sharp turns. This happens because the bushing either loses its elasticity, becoming too rigid, or sand or dust gets underneath it.

How to check bushings

Checking the bushings consists of two stages:

  • visual inspection;
  • mechanical impact.

To check the bushings, roll the car onto a pit or overpass. It is undesirable to perform this work on a lift because the stabilizer has to be pulled strongly to check the bushings, and this can lead to the machine falling. It is even more undesirable to use jacks, because if you pull the stabilizer a couple of times, you will tip the car on top of you. The consequences of such developments are not difficult to predict. Even the quick arrival of rescuers and emergency delivery to the hospital will not prevent serious harm to health. If rescuers are delayed, you may die from crash syndrome, internal bleeding or painful shock.

The purpose of the visual inspection is to detect cracks and breaks in the bushings. If even a small crack or tear is found on any bushing, then the entire set must be replaced. For mechanical impact, grab the stabilizer near the bushing that connects it to the suspension and begin to pull strongly in different directions. If squeaks or knocking noises occur, the bushings must be replaced. Don't be afraid to damage the bushings, body or stabilizer, because the loads while driving are much stronger than you can create, even pulling with all your might.

How to replace bushings front and rear + Video

Unlike the inspection, which must be performed only on a pit or overpass, replacing the bushings can also be carried out on a lift or jack and two stands. For more information on how to properly lift a car on jacks, read the article (safety precautions for car repair and maintenance). To replace the bushings you will need the following tools:

  • a set of socket and open-end wrenches;
  • metal brush;
  • soap solution;
  • graphite lubricant.

Preparation for replacing stabilizer bushings is the same on all machines. It is necessary to hang the front or back machine, make sure the machine will not fall, then remove the wheels and engine guard (if installed). After this, use a wire brush to clean all the bolts and nuts securing the bushings to the body or suspension. Often the bushings that secure the stabilizer to the suspension are made in the form of a part with two holes and silent blocks installed inside. It is much easier to change such bushings as a whole, rather than individual silent blocks. It will cost a little more, but you won’t have to worry about pressing out old silent blocks and pressing in new ones.

The only difficulty that arises in the process of replacing bushings is the difficulty in unscrewing the bolts securing the bushings and clamps to the body. It is especially difficult to do this work on a machine with a subframe, so you need to be prepared for hard work in difficult conditions.

  • First of all, disconnect the stabilizer from the suspension;
  • Then unscrew the bolts securing it to the body and pull the stabilizer out;
  • The old bushings are removed from the stabilizer, cleaned of dust and dirt and washed with soap. This procedure allows you to remove dust from the surface of the stabilizer, because dust is a strong abrasive that can quickly render a new bushing unusable;
  • Now the new bushings are smeared from the inside with soapy water and put on the stabilizer;
  • After which the stabilizer is inserted into place and screwed to the body and suspension.

It is advisable to lubricate the threads of bolts and nuts graphite lubricant, this will keep them from sticking and will make the next replacement of the bushings easier. Then they put on the engine protection, wheels, tighten the nuts or bolts and remove the car from the stands or lift.

As you know, the anti-roll bar allows you to avoid extreme loads on individual parts of the chassis. To put it simply, the stability of the car on the road directly depends on its operation, and the stabilizer also prevents the body from tilting too much when cornering. In this case, the stabilizer is connected to other parts through.

Also, to reduce noise and absorb vibrations that arise during the operation of the stabilizer, the design uses special elastic stabilizer bushings (made of rubber and in everyday life called stabilizer rubber). Next, we will look at what a stabilizer bushing is, how it is designed and works, as well as how to check stabilizer bushings and how to replace the bushing.

Read in this article

Front stabilizer bushings and building: what you need to know

First of all, the stabilizer bushing is a part molded from rubber or polyurethane. As a rule, for different cars the shape is often very similar. It should also be noted that to increase the service life and reliability, the stub bushings have grooves and bosses. These modifications made it possible to protect the bushings from mechanical damage.

The product is simple, but its functions are quite important. Not only comfort, but also the quality of operation of the stabilizer itself depends on the condition of the bushings. For this reason, it must be taken into account that any defects in the bushings are grounds for their replacement.

In other words, if the inspection process reveals that the rear stabilizer bushing or the front stabilizer bushings are damaged, deformed or destroyed, they need to be replaced. Replacing bushings transverse stabilizer is also indicated in the case when even small cracks are visible or a clear change in the properties of the rubber is noted.

As a rule, replacement is required every 30-40 thousand km. mileage or 5-6 years. At the same time, experts recommend replacing all bushings in one go, that is, even if only one element has failed. During inspection, it is important to clean the bushings from dirt in order not to miss defects and to increase the service life of the part in the event that replacement is not currently required.

Replacement is also needed when the following symptoms appear:

  • steering wheel there is play when cornering, there is a wobble in the steering wheel;
  • the body rolls heavily, when tilting you can hear clicks, tapping, and squeaks;
  • the suspension vibrates and is audible extraneous noise
  • the car began to pull when driving in a straight line;
  • a clear loss of stability is noticeable, the car does not hold the road;

Of course, these signs are only indirect, since the car can pull away or hit the steering wheel for other reasons (for example, a trivial situation when it occurs), however, as part of the diagnosis, the stabilizer bushings should also be checked. If, after replacing them, the signs of malfunction do not disappear, then in-depth diagnostics of the chassis is needed.

We also note that the creaking of stabilizer bushings, although not an acute and dangerous problem, greatly impairs the operating comfort of the vehicle. For this reason, it is also practiced to replace the bushings if the stabilizer bushings are held together.

How to replace stabilizer bushings

So, at the initial stage, it is important to understand on which axis replacement is needed (rear stabilizer bushings or front stabilizer bushings). At the same time, in practice, the front stub bushing often needs to be replaced, so let’s look at this in more detail.

First of all, replacing the front stabilizer bushings with different models may vary slightly, but the general replacement procedure is often similar and not complicated. The main thing is to prepare the necessary tools.

The general procedure for replacing the front stabilizer bushings is:

  • drive the car into a pit or onto a lift;
  • remove the wheels from the car;
  • unscrew the fastenings of the struts to the stabilizer;
  • disconnect the struts and stabilizer;
  • check the stabilizer link bushings and the stabilizer link itself (replace if necessary);
  • loosen the rear bolts securing the bracket holding the bushing, then unscrew the front ones;
  • after removing the old bushings, it is necessary to remove dirt from the places where the new bushings are installed;
  • After applying soap solution or silicone spray, you need to lubricate the bushings from the inside;
  • install new bushings and reassemble in the reverse order;

Let us add that replacing the rear stabilizer bushings is not very different from replacing the front ones, however, changing the front stabilizer bushing is somewhat more difficult, since it is more complex in design. In fact, if you managed to change the front bushings, there will be no problems with the rear bushings.

By the way, regarding the squeaks of the bushings mentioned above, usually the bushings squeak in the cold in winter or in hot, dry weather. The reason is the low cost of the material from which the bushings are made or the design features of the car. Also, rubber can harden in the cold, lose elasticity and squeak. Another creaking indicates critical wear of the bushing.

Please note that in some cases, owners try to get rid of squeaks by lubricating the stabilizer bushings. So, if the stabilizer bushing needs to be replaced due to rubber wear, then no lubricants will help, since the part is deformed.

If the stabilizer rubber bands have been replaced recently and they are in good condition, then you can count on a temporary effect after lubrication. It is important to understand that lubricant promotes the adhesion of dirt and sand to the bushing. Of course, abrasive particles reduce the life of the bushing.

It should also be noted that the bushings must fit tightly around the stabilizer. If the connection is not so reliable, the stabilizer may begin to rotate, and the creaking in this case only intensifies.

The main thing is not to use lubricants that are aggressive to rubber, as they destroy the bushings. We also note that some more major automakers They produce stabilizer bushings with anthers that protect the inner surface of the bushing from dirt, dust, water, etc. If you have the opportunity to buy something similar for your car, it is highly recommended to choose such options, even if they are more expensive.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, the rear stabilizer bushing or the front stabilizer bushing is a simple element both in terms of design and replacement. At the same time, the bushing of the stabilizer link and the bushing of the stabilizer itself are different, so it is important not to confuse these elements when selecting the necessary spare parts.

Finally, we note that the front or rear hubs stabilizer, with all its simplicity, performs important functions, allowing the stabilizer to operate normally and quietly, effectively dampening rolls and vibrations. In turn, this allows you to increase comfort, as well as improve the stability and controllability of the vehicle, thereby increasing safety during vehicle operation.

Read also

Why is a stabilizer bar strut needed and what functions does it perform: how to check the stabilizer struts and replace the stabilizer struts.

  • What is a silent block in a car: device, main functions. Signs of silent block malfunctions, why and when silent blocks need to be changed.


  • Stabilizer bushings are one of those parts that drivers pay little attention to. To put it roughly, they can be completely removed from the car’s suspension and nothing terrible will happen. Yes, the car will start to work a little worse - there will be knocks and vibrations when driving, but the car will continue to drive, and this is the most important thing. But if you want to take full care of your car, it is recommended, among other things, to pay attention to the bushings and their operation.

    Table of contents:

    Why do you need a stabilizer?

    Before understanding the direct role of bushings, you need to understand what the purpose of the stabilizer is on a car. As can be understood from the name of this element, it stabilizes the position of the car. The stabilizer is activated every time the car takes a turn and brakes. When turning, there is a risk of lateral roll, and when braking, longitudinal roll, and in each of these situations the stabilizer does everything to keep the car parallel to the road surface.

    The stabilizer is structurally a conventional rod that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (we can say that with the suspension arm, if we are talking about the MacPherson front suspension). In MacPherson suspension, the camber angle is static, and it changes when the car rolls. Changing the camber angle certainly leads to a decrease in the area of ​​contact between the tire and the road. To minimize the risk of such a situation occurring, you need to reduce the roll force, which is what the stabilizer does. In fact, we can say that it takes on the role of a torsion bar: at the slightest probability of lateral roll, the transverse ends located in the levers begin to move in different directions, thereby twisting the middle part. The moment that occurs during such movement is sufficient to prevent the continuation of the relative movement of the wheels, which reduces the roll.

    Purpose of stabilizer bushings


    Stabilizer bushings are extremely important for the proper operation of the entire mechanism. Since the stabilizer must be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the left and right wheels, it is usually secured with bushings.
    During operation, the stabilizer bushings begin to wear out, and backlash occurs, which leads to incorrect operation of the entire mechanism, increasing the freedom of the part. If you do not take any action to eliminate the play (replacing the stabilizer bushings), all meaning in the operation of the stabilizer will disappear - the car will begin to roll in turns.

    How to change stabilizer bushings

    Replacing stabilizer bushings is a fairly simple process that can be performed in almost any service center. You can also replace worn parts yourself, if you have all the necessary tools.

    To replace stabilizer bushings you will need:

    • A lift, since the work will be carried out under the car;
    • New stabilizer bushings. Essentially, the bushing is an ordinary piece of rubber, so there is no critical need to purchase original parts. On sale you can find a lot of analogues from famous manufacturers, for example, from Sidem and Sasic;
    • A pair of keys (or heads).

    The suspension of any car is always the first to take the blow from road irregularities. Depending on the design and settings, suspension units are designed to most effectively absorb shock loads from uneven road surfaces, as well as to ensure vehicle controllability and stability on high speeds when cornering, as well as when there is a sudden change in the trajectory of movement (“snake”, avoiding an obstacle). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements performs its role. Trunnions and levers support the wheel in a given plane, ensuring unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).

    The principle of operation of stabilizers

    Springs provide elasticity and return the suspension elements to their original state, and shock absorbers provide smooth ride and damping of elastic vibrations of the body. At the same time, even the flawless operation of the listed elements to ensure safe traffic not enough. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to the levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern passenger car, you can see another element - the anti-roll bar. In suspension front axle The stabilizer is a curved lever, attached with one arm to the wheel hub assembly, and the other to the subframe. The fastenings are not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.

    The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when taking turns with a small radius or when suddenly changing the trajectory of movement. In the widely used front suspension of the McPherson type, the anti-roll bar is a torsion bar that works to twist. This lever has a rigid connection to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it using additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device can prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its capsizing), while maintaining a straight trajectory.

    In suspension rear axle Anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with four-wheel drive all wheels. On many rear-wheel drive car models with a solid rear axle beam, the role of a stabilizer is performed by a reaction rod (Panhard rod). Some all-wheel drive Japanese-made models of previous years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land Cruiser 80, etc.), along with a Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod that passes through the entire beam of the rear axle and is connected through short levers to the power elements of the body or frame. The principle of operation of the rear stabilizer is similar to the principle of operation of the front one: reducing the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.

    Signs of malfunctioning stabilizer bushings

    To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are secured through elastic elements. The stabilizer units, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber, are no exception. As a result of many factors: poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, defects are observed in the operation of the anti-roll bar, which manifest themselves increasingly over time.

    The first warning signs of the need to replace bushings are. In contrast, the knocking of shock absorbers occurs not only when driving over road irregularities, but also when taking turns with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of play in the connections of the stabilizer arms as a result of wear on the bushings. If you do not attach importance to this, then subsequently the “symptoms” may increase.

    The rattling sounds of the suspension will intensify and will accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll strongly when cornering, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (if the bushings on both wheels are heavily worn, or if the stabilizer beam breaks). In some cases, the steering wheel begins to play. The car loses sharp control and becomes rolly. It is possible to “yaw” and pull towards the faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and the trajectory of movement. Other extraneous noise and vibration may appear in the suspension. Typically, most manufacturers recommend replacing bushings after 30 - 40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is rattling and knocking noises when turning and body roll.

    Suspension inspection

    Before inspection, it is advisable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. By visually inspecting all the elastic elements of the suspension, you can easily detect a damaged part. If the bushing is worn out or damaged, abrasions and cracks are noticeable on it, which are called “daisies” among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that rubber elements form when cracking. Loss of elasticity, “hardening” of rubber is also a sure sign of an upcoming replacement. If for some reason (lack of a lift, inspection hole or nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, the degree of wear can be determined by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (the central pillar) and slightly rock the car from side to side. The presence of knocks, creaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension can serve as an indirect indication for replacing the elastic bushings.

    For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto an overpass or inspection hole. To determine the condition of the anti-roll bar elements, it is necessary to use a crowbar or mounting blade to shake the joints of all suspension arms. To do this, you need to rest the mounting blade on the place of attachment to the body without damaging it. protective coating and with a slight rocking, press one by one on all the stabilizer mounts being checked. If, during such manipulation, significant play is observed in at least one connection, or vice versa - loss of elasticity - then half the battle is already done! All that remains is to replace the worn bushing.

    Video - How to replace stabilizer bushings on a VAZ

    How to change stabilizer bushings

    To replace the rubber bushings of the front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, it is better to carry out all work not on a lift or on a jack, when all the wheels of the car are suspended, but on an inspection pit using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung on a lift or jack. After hanging and securely fastening, to access the stabilizer parts, remove the wheel (wheels on the same axle), wheel arch liners and crankcase protection. After this, the stabilizer mounts are loosened, including the mounting brackets to the body or subframe.

    If threaded connections do not yield due to oxides or severe contamination, it is necessary to process them in order to avoid tearing off the edges or cutting off the bolts special liquid, making it easier to unscrew. Before loosening the fastenings, it is necessary to jack up the lower arm or place a stop. When replacing bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is more desirable), it is necessary to jack up or place stops on the axles of the front wheels.

    This procedure is necessary to remove the load from the stabilizer beam for easier replacement of the bushings. After all these conditions are met, you can remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing and then replace it with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for ease of installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.

    Original repair kits always contain the required amount of grease, which must be used to lubricate the inner surface of the bushings before replacement. Assembly of all stabilizer components and other elements of the car is carried out in the reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.

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