Headlights on the "Japanese" - illegal? Central switch and ignition switch
The motorcycle control mechanism (Fig. 68) includes the steering wheel and control cables, as well as the drive rear brake.
HANDLEBAR AND CONTROL CABLES
The steering wheel is used to change the direction of the motorcycle.
On the steering wheel 12 (Fig. 68), on the right, there is a handle 7 for controlling the throttles of carburetors, a lever 5 for controlling the front brake and a switch 6 for direction indicators (for MT-9 and MV-650 motorcycles).
When the handle 7 is turned towards itself, the carburetor chokes rise, the number combustible mixture entering the cylinders increases and the engine speed increases. When turning the handle away from you, the process occurs in the reverse order. The rise of the throttles in an unrolled engine is limited by stops.
Lever 5 for controlling the front brake is mounted on the steering wheel in a bracket. Pressing the lever activates the brake front wheel motorcycle.
The switch 6 direction indicators has three positions: neutral (middle), in which the direction indicators are off, the far right indicates a turn to the right, the far left indicates a turn to the left.
On the steering wheel on the left are the clutch control lever 13, the ignition timing coin 14, the high and low beam switch lever and the signal button 16.
The clutch control lever 13 is used when starting the motorcycle, when shifting gears and when braking.
When the lever is pressed, the clutch discs disengage and crankshaft engine is disconnected from the gearbox input shaft. When the lever is returned to its original position, the clutch is engaged.
| Rice. 68. Steering motorcycles: 1 - central switch; 2 - control lamp emergency pressure oils; 3 - speedometer; 4 - steering damper; 5 - hand brake lever; 6 - turn signal switch; 7 - throttle control handle; 8 - foot brake pedal; 9 - power handle reversing(for motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650 - manual gearshift lever); 10 - battery charging control lamp; 11 - lamp-indicator of the neutral of the MT-801 gearbox; 12 - steering wheel; 13 - clutch control lever; 14 - ignition advance coin; 15 - lever switch high and low beam; 16 - signal button; 17 - foot pedal gear change; 18 - trigger lever |
When starting at low speeds when the engine is overloaded, the coin lever should be placed in the late ignition position. When increasing the number of revolutions, the ignition timing must be increased by moving the lever to the “Early” position.
Signal button 16 is mounted on the coin body and is designed to give a sound signal.
The lever 15 of the high and low beam switch is connected with a cable to the switch engine in the headlight. Moving the engine from one extreme position to another, turn on the high or low beam of a large headlight lamp.
The shock absorber 4 of the steering wheel is designed to reduce lateral vibrations of the front wheel and make it easier to control the motorcycle.
On the left side of the motorcycle, at the bottom, there is a two-arm gear shift pedal 17 and a trigger lever 18.
The foot switch pedal 17 has two support pads. When you press the pedal with your toe, the gears switch from higher to lower, when you press with your heel, from lower to higher. After each press, the pedal automatically returns to its original position. Pedal 17 is mounted on the gearbox housing.
The lever 18 of the starting mechanism is also installed on the gearbox housing, designed to start the engine.
WITH right side motorcycle, at the bottom, there is a foot brake pedal 8 and a hand lever 9. For K-750M, MV-750 and K-650, which use the 6204 gearbox, lever 9 is used for manual gear shifting and setting the neutral position. For motorcycles MT-9, M6-750M and MV-650, on which the MT-804 gearbox is installed, lever 9 is the reverse gear lever, and the neutral position is set by foot pedal 17. When setting the main neutral position of the shift mechanism (between I and 2nd gear), the neutral indicator lamp lights up on the headlight.
On these motorcycles, the reverse gear lever 9, located on the gearbox on the right side, has two positions: forward - the gear is on, reverse - the gear is off.
Foot brake pedal 5 is located on the right side of the motorcycle frame. When the pedal is pressed, the rear wheel is braked, when the pedal returns to its original position, braking stops.
On the MB-750 motorcycles, on the right side, there is also a lock engagement lever designed to engage and disengage the final drive differential lock clutch.
The headlight of the motorcycle has a central switch 1, with an ignition switch, mounted in the headlight and designed to turn on the ignition and control the lighting devices.
The central switch mounted in the headlight is installed on the K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MT-9 and MV-750M motorcycles. A switch is installed on the MV-650 motorcycle automotive type VK-857, mounted not in the headlight, but on the instrument panel of the motorcycle.
The central switch in the headlight can have the following positions:
1. Ignition key out, switch in middle position - all appliances off (parking during the day).
2. The key is inserted all the way, the switch is in the middle position, the control lamp 10 is on, the ignition, the horn and the brake light are on. On the MT-9 motorcycle, the control lamp 2 of the emergency oil pressure is on and the direction indicators are on.
3. The key is inserted all the way and the switch is turned to the right - the ignition, the horn and the brake light are on, and on the MT-9 motorcycle the direction indicators are on, the position lamps, the speedometer illumination lamp and the parking light lamp are on.
4. The key is inserted all the way and the switch is turned to the left - the ignition, the horn and the brake light are on, and on the MT-9 motorcycle the direction indicators are on, the side lamps, the speedometer lamp, the high or low beam of the headlight are on (depending on the position of the lever). 15),
5. The key is removed, the central switch is turned to the right. At the same time, the ignition, sound signal and brake light are turned off, the lamps are on rear light motorcycle, sidecar front and rear lights, speedometer and parking light (parking light at night).
The indicator lamp 11 of the gearbox neutral is lit only in the main neutral position (between I and II gears) of the shift mechanism, regardless of engine operation and the position of the central shift.
MOTORCYCLE HANDLE DEVICE
The steering wheel (Fig. 69) is made of a steel pipe and is connected to the front fork by means of two brackets 4 fixed in the holes of the front fork traverse.
On the right side, at the end of the steering wheel, a tube with a rubber handle 18 pressed onto it is loosely mounted; an eye with a through groove is welded to the tube. The groove includes a chain 9, which is attached with a pin. Slider 10 is attached to the second end of the chain. Two grooves are made on the upper part of the slider, into which the ends of the cables with tips are placed. From axial movement along the steering tube, the tube is held by housing 7, with which it is jointly attached to the steering wheel by a locking screw 19 with a lock nut, the housing is closed by cover 8.
In the body 7 there is a longitudinal groove along which the slider slides with the ends of the carburetor throttle control cables fixed into it. The free cavity of the longitudinal groove is filled with lubricant (lithol or US-2).
The opposite ends of the cables are fixed directly in the throttle valves of the carburetors. To fix the throttle control knob in a predetermined position, a spring 12 and an adjusting screw 11 with a lock nut are attached to the handle body.
The length of the throttle control drive cables, and, consequently, the timing of the throttle lift, are adjusted using adjusting fittings 5 (Fig. 26) installed on the carburetor housing covers.
Rice. 69. The steering wheel of motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650 and MV-750M:
1 - left lever assembly; 2 - combined coin P45; 3 - steering tube; 4 - steering wheel brackets; 5 - throttle control knob assembly; 6 - right lever assembly; 7 - body of the throttle control knob; 8 - housing cover; 9 - chain assembly; 10 - slider; 11 - adjusting screw of the throttle handle; 12 - spring; 13 - throttle cables assy; 14 - cable front brake assembled; 15 - front brake cable bracket; 16 - ignition timing cable assembly; 17 - safety tube; 18 - handlebar; 19 - locking screw; 20 - lever bracket; 21 - axis of the lever; 22 - adjusting screw; 23 - clutch cable; 24 - adjusting fitting; 25 - safety clutches; 26 - coin case; 27 - ignition timing lever; 28 - signal button; 29 - high and low beam switching lever
Lever 1 (Fig. 69) clutch control is mounted on the left side of the steering wheel. Its support is the bracket 20, which is attached to the steering wheel tube with a bolt. The axis 21 of rotation of the lever is a screw screwed into the base of the lever. The bracket has a hole, which is an emphasis for the cable sheath. The lever itself also has a hole where the tip of the cable enters. The clutch control lever is connected to the lever of the clutch release mechanism by means of a cable 23. The lower stop of the shell tube is a bracket with an overlay attached to the upper right stud of the gearbox to the engine. The tension of the cable, and hence the free play of the clutch release levers, is adjusted using the adjusting screw 22 or by moving the safety tube 17 in the bracket.
The front brake control lever 6 is mounted on the steering wheel on the right in a bracket mounted on the steering wheel tube. The device and its fastening are similar to the device and fastening of the clutch control lever. The front brake control lever is connected to the lever 4 (Fig. 56) of the front brake using a cable 14.
The tension of the cable, and hence the free play of the front brake control lever, is adjusted using the adjusting fitting 24 (Fig. 69) screwed into the front brake disc.
All motorcycle control drives (except for the foot brake drive rods) are made flexible. They are steel cables enclosed in twisted steel sheaths covered with a braid that protects both the sheath and the cable from corrosion.
On both sides of the cables, metal tips are soldered, one of which is fixed in the control lever, and the second in the part of the controlled unit or unit. The sheaths of the cables in the places of their contact with the metal parts of the motorcycle are protected from damage by rubber couplings 25.
The combined coin (Fig. 69) is mounted on the steering wheel of the K-750M, MV-750, K: 650 and MV-750M motorcycles between the left handle and bracket 20 of the clutch control lever.
The coin case is a sleeve on which the ignition timing lever 27, the signal button 28 and the high and low beam switch lever 29 are fixed.
The ignition timing lever is connected to the movable disk of the breaker using a cable 16. When the coin lever is turned towards itself, the movable disk of the breaker turns in the direction of rotation of the cam. This position corresponds to the time of late ignition. When the coin lever is turned away from itself, the movable disk of the breaker turns in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the cam. In this case, the ignition advance angle increases.
Ignition advance is regulated by a disk within an angle from 34 ± 2º to TDC. (early ignition) up to 6±2° BT. (late ignition) for the MT-801 engine.
For the K-750 engine, respectively, within the angle from 30 ± 2 ° to TDC. (early ignition) up to 2 ± 2 ° to T.M.T. (late ignition).
The light switch lever is connected by a cable to the switch engine in the headlight. By moving the engine, turn on the high or low beam headlights.
The horn button has contacts - movable and fixed, disconnected from the ground. The fixed contact of the button is connected by a wire to one of the signal terminals. When the signal button is pressed, its contacts are closed, and therefore, the signal circuit is closed.
The KMZ-8.151.14 steering wheel installed on the MT-9 and MV-650 motorcycles (Fig. 70) differs from the one described above in that a turn indicator switch is installed on the right side of the steering wheel, and instead of a combined ignition advance coin, a toggle switch with a near switch is installed. and high beam and a horn button. The rest of the steering wheel parts are similar to the steering wheel parts 75011001.
Rice. 70. The steering wheel of motorcycles MT-9 and MV-650:
1 - left lever assembly; 2 - low and high beam switch with a signal button; 3 - steering tube; 4 - steering wheel brackets; 5 - throttle control knob assembly; 6 - right lever assembly; 7 - body of the throttle control knob; 8 - housing cover; 9 - chain assembly; 10 - slider; 11 - adjusting screw of the throttle handle; 12 - spring; 13 - throttle cables assy; 14 - front brake cable assembly; 15 - front brake cable bracket; 16 - turn signal switch; 17 - safety tube
REAR BRAKE DRIVE
The K-750M and MV-750 motorcycles have a rear brake drive (Fig. 71) of the simplest design.
A bracket 1 is welded at the base of the right middle pillar of the frame, on which the rear brake pedal and the brake light sensor are mounted.
The forged rear brake pedal 2 has a knurled foot pad at one end and a hole at the other where the pedal axle is pressed in and welded on. On the smooth surface of the axle there is a cam against which the pusher of the brake light sensor rests. Slots are made at the end of the pedal axle, on which lever 4 of the rear brake sits, fixed with a nut.
At the upper end of the lever, a hole is made for the pin 5 of the adjusting fork 6 of the brake rod. The lower part of the rear brake lever is curved and has a hook where the spring enters. At the end of the brake rod, the axis 7 of the brake lever is installed and the nut 8 is screwed.
When you press the pedal, the pedal axis turns in the bracket, dragging the rear brake lever, which, moving the brake rod forward, stretches the lever spring 4. Moving forward, the brake rod moves the lever located on the brake disc, turning the fist and equalizer and pushing the brake pads apart . All parts of the brake, when the pressure on the pedal is stopped, under the action of the spring of the brake lever, return to their original position and braking stops.
A brake light sensor is associated with the action of the brake pedal. The brake light sensor is screwed into a threaded hole on the rear brake pedal axle bracket. There are two wires coming from the sensor; one - from the sensor terminal to the motorcycle lamp, to the upper terminal of the brake light lamp, the other - to the relay terminal.
When you press the brake pedal, the sensor pusher, under the action of a spring, slides along the cam on the axis of the brake pedal and goes down, closing the sensor contacts. At this point, the brake light comes on.
Install and adjust the sensor as follows. Screw in the sensor housing about 2/3 of the thread length and depress the foot brake pedal, the lamp should light up. Fix the wires, put on the cap and check the operation of the sensor. When the brake pedal is moved 10-15 mm, the control lamp should light up. When further pressing the pedal, the lamp should burn steadily. If the lamp lights up too late (with a large stroke of the brake pedal), it is necessary to unscrew the sensor a little. If the lamp lights up too early (at the slightest touch on the pedal), the sensor needs to be screwed in a little. After adjustment, the sensor housing should be locked with a nut, lubricate the terminals with US-2 grease and put on a rubber cap.
The design described above was used on the K-750M and MV-750 motorcycles and needed frequent adjustment. The K-650, MV-750M, MT-9 and MV-650 motorcycles have a more advanced rear brake drive design (Fig. 72). It consists of pedal lever 2, pedal hinge 3, brake light switch 4, front link 5, intermediate lever 6 with spring, intermediate lever hinge 7, rear link 8, lever axle 9 and nut 11 connected to brake knuckle lever 10.
When you press the pedal, the pedal axis rotates in hinge 3, dragging the front link 5, which moves the intermediate lever 6. The spring of the intermediate lever is compressed and rotates it in the hinge 7, dragging the rear link 5, which, moving the brake fist lever, spreads the brake pads. When you stop pressing the pedal, all parts of the rear brake drive under the action of the spring of the intermediate lever return to their original position.
The brake signal sensor used on the above motorcycles is
switch 4 (VK854). The brake signal sensor, placed in a protective rubber cap, is attached with two screws to a bracket welded to the right lower side tube of the frame.
The terminals are protected from moisture and dirt by a rubber cap.
The switch rod is connected by a spring to the upper arm of the foot brake pedal. When braking, the spring stretches and moves the rod, which closes the contacts. At the same time, the red light of the rear lights of the motorcycle and sidecar lights up. Switching off is carried out by the return spring of the switch, and the accelerated opening of its contacts is carried out by an additional spring. The full stroke of the switch rod is 10.5 mm. During operation, the circuit breaker cannot be repaired and, in case of failure, is replaced with a new one.
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT AND CARE
Correct adjustment of the control mechanism should provide:
1. With freely released control levers:
For clutch - full th inclusion; it is controlled by the free play of the end of the clutch control lever on the K-750M, MV-750 and K-650 motorcycles. The free play of the end of the lever should be 5-8 mm. On motorcycles MV-750M, MT-9 and MV-650, where the mechanism is installed automatic shutdown clutch, the free play of the end of the clutch control lever is not controlled, but the free play of the upper head of the clutch release lever on the gearbox is checked, which should not exceed 1 mm. The free travel of the front shoulder of the gear shift pedal when it is rocking should be 10 mm;
For brakes - the presence of a gap of 0.2-0.4 mm between brake pads and brake drums; it is controlled at the front brake by the free play of the end of the control lever, which should be 5-10 mm, and for the rear brake - by the free play of the brake pedal, which should be 20-25 mm for motorcycles K-750M and MV-750 and 10-15 mm for motorcycles K-650, MV-750M, MT-9 and MV-650;
The breaker-distributor PM-05 on motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650 and MV-750M should not have free play of the ignition timing drive when the movable disk of the breaker-distributor is in the position corresponding to early ignition;
For carburetors, the simultaneous start of movement and the rise of the throttles to the same height must be ensured; at any position of the cable control handle there should be no free play.
2. With the control levers fully depressed:
For the clutch - complete disengagement of the clutch. A sign of good drive adjustment is noiseless gear shifting, and when the gear is engaged, the clutch should not lead;
For brakes, effective braking of the motorcycle with both brakes. The braking distance at a speed of 60 km / h on an asphalted dry highway should not exceed 32 m;
At the breaker-distributor PM-05 - the position of the movable disk corresponding to late ignition;
For carburetors - raising the throttles to the maximum and the same height, a sign of which is the synchronous operation of the cylinders, which is checked by alternately removing the caps from the spark plugs. In this case, the speedometer readings should not change at the same position of the throttle control knob.
Maintenance of control drives is as follows.
During the control inspection, check the operation of the levers and drives of the control mechanisms.
During daily maintenance, check the condition and fastening of the control rods and cables and their effectiveness.
During maintenance No. 1, carry out the work provided for the daily Maintenance, and additionally:
Check the adjustment of the automatic clutch release mechanism (for motorcycles MV-750M, MT-9, MV-650) and adjust if necessary;
Lubricate the axles of the clutch control levers and hand brake, the upper tips of the cables, the hinges of the foot brake drive. Grease - lithol 24 (TU 3810439-71), lubrication US-2 GOST 1033-73 is allowed.
After 8000 km of run during the next maintenance No. 2, carry out the work provided for maintenance No. 1 and additionally lubricate the mechanism of the throttle control handle.
After a warranty run of 15,000 km, lubricate the speedometer drive cable with AC-8 oil.
FAULTS OF THE CONTROL MECHANISM AND WAYS TO ELIMINATE THEM
| Nature of the fault | Possible reason | Definition method | Remedy |
| Throttle control knob turns hard | Crawler sticks Wrinkled sheath or damaged cable | Remove grease and check rotation Check by inspection | Remove handle, clean and re-grease Replace damaged parts |
| Turning the handle does not move the throttle | Turns the rubber handle on the tube Rope broken | Inspection from the end of the handle Inspection | Replace handle Replace cable |
| Throttle knob turns when hand is removed | Loose adjusting screw Broken spring braking the handle | Tightening the screw removes Tightening the screw does not remove | Lock screw Remove the handle and replace the spring |
| Tight lever rotates | The sheath is crumpled or the veins of the cable are torn off Lever screw too tight | Check by inspection Loosen screw | Replace sheath or rope Adjust screw |
| The ignition advance lever randomly moves to the “Early” position | Broken or loose lever spring washer | Tighten the screw; if the lever rotates easily, check the elasticity of the spring washer | Replace spring washer |
Chapter Six
MOTORCYCLE ELECTRICAL
The electrical equipment of KMZ motorcycles consists of the following groups.
1. Sources of electricity - battery and generator.
2. Ignition devices - ignition coil, breaker-distributor, candles and ignition switch.
3. Consumers of electricity - lighting devices, sound and light alarms.
4. Distribution equipment and wiring - central switch, brake light sensor and connecting wires.
The electrical network of motorcycles is made on a single-wire system. Power from sources of electrical energy is supplied to consumers through one wire connected to the negative terminals battery and the generator (negative terminals), and the role of the second wire is performed by the frame and all metal parts of the motorcycle (“ground”) connected to the positive battery terminals (positive terminal).
Depending on the model of the motorcycle, the electrical circuit has certain changes and differences, which come down to three options:
6 volt circuit with generator direct current G-414, with a power of 65 W, a ZMT-12 battery and manual adjustment of the ignition timing, mounted on motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650 and MV-750M (Fig. 73);
6-volt circuit with a G-414 DC generator, 65 W, ZMT-12 battery and automatic ignition timing, mounted on an MT-9 motorcycle (Fig. 74);
12-volt circuit with a G-424 alternator, 150 W, 6MTS-9 battery (or twin ZMT-6 batteries) and automatic ignition timing mounted on a MV-650 (MT-10) motorcycle (Fig. 75 ).
Rice. 73. Scheme of electrical equipment of a motorcycle used for motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650 and MV-750M:
1 - low and high beam lamp A6-32 + 32; 2 - key; 3 - fuse; 4 - headlight FG-116; 5 - central switch; 6 - wire "mass"; 7 - wire high voltage; 8 - candle tip; 9 - ignition lights A8U; 10 - high voltage wire; 11 - ignition coil B2B; 12 - marker lamp; 13 - front lamp of the stroller PF-200; 14 - sound signal S-37A; 15 - wire of the front lamp of the stroller; 16 - wire connector; 17 - rear light FP-220; 18 - lamp "Stop" A6-15 brake signal; 19 - tail lamp A6-3; 20 - stroller light wire; 21 - a wire of a lamp of the switch of a signal of braking; 22 - wire to the license plate lamp; 23 - brake light sensor; 24 - relay-regulator; 25 - DC generator G-414; 26 - portable lamp PLTM (only for motorcycles MV-750 and MV-750M); 27 - socket 47K (only for MV-750 and MV-750M); 28 - wire to the outlet; 29 - wire battery-"mass"; 30 - battery ZMT-12; 31 - breaker-distributor PM-05; 32 - signal button; 33 - signal wire; 34 - ignition advance coin; 35 - speedometer illumination lamp; 36 - control lamp for turning on the generator A6-0.25; 37 - light switching cable; 38 - high and low beam switch; 39 - parking light lamp A6-2
Rice. 74. Scheme of electrical equipment with automatic adjustment of the ignition timing used on the MT-9 motorcycle:
1 - high and low beam lamp A6-32 + 32; 2 - lamp A6-15; 3 - turn signal lamp UP-223; 4 - ignition key; 5 - fuse for 15a; 6 - lantern of the control lamp PD-20; 7 - signaling lamp; 8 - emergency oil pressure sensor ММ106А; 9 - central switch; 10 - wire connector; 11 - turn switch P-201; 12 - lamp A6-2; 13 - front lamp of the stroller PF-200; 14 - candle tip; 15 - spark plug A8U; 16 - ignition coil B-201A; 17 - breaker PM-302; 18 - sound signal S-37A; 19 - taillight of the stroller FP-230; 20 - lamp A6-15; 21 - lamp A6-3; 22 - brake signal switch VK-854; 23 - relay-regulator RR-302; 24 - DC generator G-414; 25 - battery ZMT-12; 26 - A6-2 speedometer illumination lamp; 27 - sound signal button; 28 - relay-breaker of the direction indicator RS419; 29 - light switch P-25A; 30 - neutral sensor (contact button); 31 - lantern of the control lamp PD20G; 32 - signaling lamp of the neutral position of the gear lever A6-1; 33 - control lamp for turning on the generator A6-0.25; 34 - parking light lamp A6-2; 35 - headlight FG-116. Coloring of wires; I - black; II - white; III - red; IV - green; V - brown; VI - yellow; VII - blue; VIII - purple; IX - gray
Rice. 75. Scheme of electrical equipment with an alternator G-424, used on a motorcycle MV-650 (MT-10):
1 - spark plug A8U; 2 - candle tip; 3 - breaker PM-302U or PM-304; 4 - two-pin ignition coil B-204; 5 - sound signal O-38; 6 - light switch; 7 - lamp-indicator of turns UP-223; 5 - headlight FG-137; 9 - central switch VK-857; 10 - breaker for direction indicators RS427; 11 - emergency oil pressure sensor MM125; 12 - contact plug; 13 - turn signal switch P201; 14 - front lamp PF-232 strollers; 15 - brake signal switch VK-854; 16 - rear light FP-219 strollers; 17 - relay-regulator RR-330; 18 - twin battery ZMT-6; 19 - fuse block PR-118; 20 - rear lamp of the motorcycle FP-246; 21 - alternator G-424; 22 - high beam control lamp PD20D; 23 - lantern of the control lamp of the PD205 generator; 24 - a lantern of a control lamp of emergency oil pressure PD20E; 25 - a lantern of a control lamp of direction indicators PD20D; 26 - lantern of the control lamp of the neutral sensor PD20D; 27 - lamp A12-21 direction indicators; 28 - lamp A12-4 parking light; 29 - lamp A12-45 + 40 high and low beam; 30 - lamp A12-21 + 6 "Stop" of the stroller lamp; 31 - lamp A12-3 of the rear light of the motorcycle; 32 - lamp A12-1 speedometer illumination; 33 - wire tip; 34 - a bundle of wires for a brake signal and rear turn signal switch; 35 - a bundle of motorcycle wires; 36 - wire panel; 37 - speedometer wire; 38 - battery-fuse box wire; 39 - a bundle of wires for the stroller lights; 40 - signal wire; 41 - wire reel-breaker; 42 - high voltage wire; 43 - wire battery-"mass"; 44 - lantern wire PD20E; 45 - lantern wire PD20D; 46 - battery connecting wire
SOURCES OF ELECTRICITY
The sources of electricity for the described motorcycle models are ZMT-12 batteries and G-414 generators for K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MV-750M and MT-9 motorcycles and 6MTS-9 or ZMT-6 batteries and a G generator -424 alternating current with a voltage of 12 V for the MV-650 (MT-10) motorcycle.
The inclusion of sources in the circuit and maintaining the voltage in the network within the required limits is ensured by the relay-regulators RR-302 and RR-330, respectively.
Rechargeable battery ZMT-12
On motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MV-750M and MT-9, a lead-acid battery of the ZMT-12 type is installed, which has Rated voltage 6 V, capacity 12 Ah.
The electrolyte is an aqueous solution of battery sulfuric acid.
The battery (Fig. 76) consists of three batteries connected in series and placed in a common box 10 with a lid 16. Partitions 12 form containers for batteries.
Each battery consists of half-blocks - positive 9 and negative 6 and 11 plates located in a container with electrolyte.
The battery plates are cast from a lead-antimony alloy in the form of a grid filled with a porous active mass.
The plates of each semi-block are interconnected by a barette having a pin-shaped output 4 and separated from each other by plastic or wooden separators 7 with a glass felt gasket.
The battery plates with their lower part rest on the ribs 5, which exclude a short circuit in case the active mass of the plates falls to the bottom of the can.
The batteries are covered with covers 13, which are sealed with acid-resistant mastic.
The filler holes of the batteries are closed with plugs 3 with sealing washers to prevent splashing of the electrolyte. In the lower, elongated end of the plug, there are gas outlet channels connected to the atmosphere.
The terminals of individual batteries are interconnected using lead inter-accumulator connections.
Lead-out clamps 2 and 15 of the battery with lugs, to which wire lugs are attached with bolts and nuts.
The positive (+) battery terminal is connected to terminal B of the relay-regulator, and the negative (-) to ground.
The battery is installed on a special platform located on the left side of the motorcycle. A rubber gasket is placed under the battery. The battery is attached to the site using two straps and a wing nut.
When the battery is in operation, excessive discharge of the battery should not be allowed, since in this case the plates are covered with a layer of lead sulfate (sulfated) and the normal course of the chemical reaction processes when charging the battery is hampered, therefore, its discharge is accelerated. V winter conditions this may cause the electrolyte to freeze.
The degree of charge of the battery is judged by the voltage at the battery terminals and the density of the electrolyte.
The voltage of each cell of a fully charged battery is 2.1-2.2V. When discharging, the voltage rapidly drops to 2V and then slowly decreases to 1.7V. The voltage must not be allowed to fall below this limit.
The density of the electrolyte of a fully charged battery should be 1.285 g/cm3. The electrolyte of a charged battery freezes at -50ºÑ, and a discharged one - at -6°С, therefore, in winter, when the frost is below -15°С, it is recommended to bring the density of the electrolyte to 1.3-1.32 g/cm3 and systematically control it. If the density of the electrolyte has decreased to 1.25, then the battery is discharged and should be charged.
The electrolyte level in the batteries should be 10-15 mm below the upper edges of the plates.
During the operation of the battery, water evaporates, therefore, when the electrolyte level drops below the specified limit, distilled water must be added. The electrolyte is added only if there is a leak and it is necessary to maintain its concentration within the required limits in order to avoid reducing the efficiency of the battery.
During operation, periodically, once every three months, it is necessary to check the relay-regulator to maintain a voltage of 7.2 ± 0.2 V in the charging circuit.
The battery must be constantly kept dry and clean, the ventilation holes must be cleaned, the terminals must be lubricated with technical vaseline.
It is not allowed to connect wires of different polarities (“+” and “-”) to each other to check for a spark.
62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 ..Central switch and ignition switch motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MT-9
On motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MT-9 and MV-750M, a central switch is installed, made integral with the ignition lock, having common parts with it and mounted in the headlight of the motorcycle.
The central switch (Fig. 96) is used to turn on the ignition circuit, signal and lighting network of the motorcycle.
The central switch is mounted inside the headlight with three screws screwed into the switch housing from the outside, and consists of a base on which the housing, moving contact and terminals are mounted.
Hole for ignition key in the switch housing is closed with a slider that protects against moisture ingress during precipitation.
Next to the switch, in the headlight, a control lamp and a 15 A central fuse are mounted.
During the operation of motorcycles, it sometimes becomes necessary to replace a blown central fuse or headlight control bulb.
To replace the fuse, use a screwdriver to unscrew the holder located on the right side of the headlight. The control bulb is replaced from the inside of the headlight, for which the rim with a diffuser and reflector is first separated from the headlight housing.
On the MV-650 motorcycle, a central switch of the VK-857 type (Fig. 97) is installed, mounted on the instrument panel, made integral with the ignition switch and having common parts with it.
The MV-650 ignition lock consists of a housing 1 having a locking cylinder 2 with an automotive-type ignition key 3. At the bottom of the housing there are seven terminals to which are connected: positive from the power source (terminals 1-1), ignition (terminals 2-2),
motorcycle side lights (terminals 3-3) and headlight (terminal 4).
When the ignition key is turned, the locking cylinder is turned, and with it the movable contact connecting the terminals in various combinations (Fig. 98):
0 - the key is inserted all the way - all devices are turned off;
І - the key is inserted all the way and turned counterclockwise - the ignition, the side lights of the motorcycle and the parking light lamp in the headlight are on (the parking light continues to burn when the ignition key is removed in this position);
ІІ - the key is inserted all the way and turned clockwise to the first fixed position - the ignition, headlight and side lights are on (moving at night);
III - the key is inserted all the way and turned clockwise to the second fixed position - the ignition, side lights and direction indicators are on.
The warning lamps and instrumentation of the motorcycle are on in all three positions of the ignition key except “0”.
In general, in the winter, while I was assembling the engine, I decided to install a generator for 12v, contrary to all the sayings that 6v is good, 12 wiring is more difficult if it closes on immediately ... I needed good light and for this I was ready to spend both time and my nerves 🙂
I started looking for the information I needed. Found a drawing of the adapter flange
and took it to the factory so that they could carve it for me ... Then I found another such drawing, it also helped me a little 
I waited, I waited for my flange, but they didn’t make it ... A month passed, I walked around the market in disappointment. Went to your favorite container with moto parts Soviet technology I was choosing something, and then I looked up and saw the factory flange, a smile appeared on my face and I immediately bought it. Too bad I couldn't find a photo of him. He brought it home, and in the evening he began to cut the crankcase. I sawed where with a grinder (thanks to the person who wrote that aluminum should be sawed with glasses, because hot chips fly into the eyes), where with a hacksaw. Then he finished a lot with a file. I did all this more than one evening. When I carved everything according to the drawing, I decided to try it on, the teeth of the generator and the camshaft did not converge by about half a centimeter, then I also grinded off the crankcase wall and made the flange itself thinner. I put 3 washers on the generator under the gear. Everything seems to be the same now ... I was afraid to cut the thread and screw the studs into the crankcase “just like that”, since the wall thickness was only 4mm. In my opinion, this was not enough. Then I fixed the flange as shown in the drawing above and drilled holes, took 8 bolts of the required length and slightly undermined the caps and inserted them. I tried it on, it didn’t turn out badly, then I smeared the flange with sealant, and smeared the bolts with super glue, screwed the nuts on top, tightened it and left this thing to harden until the next day. The next day I cut out the gasket and tried to put a generator bought in advance from a friend. Everything seems to be working, see the pictures below: 
That's how it all turned out 🙂 
The pictures above show the bolts that I wrote about above ... I think this option is much more reliable! You can also see that the gears are perfectly matched)
Further, while the engine was slowly going further, a battery and a voltage regulator 121.3702 were bought 
I found a wiring diagram for all this miracle 
and after installing the engine on the motorcycle completely re-routed all the wiring. The control lamp relay was taken in my opinion from some UAZ, maybe I'm wrong ...
Here are a couple of pictures of the generator already on the motorcycle: 
I also want to say that the faucet had to be installed from Java, since no other one wanted to fit in there.
I left my own coil, a spark such as they write that it will kill a horse 🙂 I have ridden it quite a bit, it heats up a little but it works fine.
In conclusion: I achieved the desired result! I installed a 50/60W halogen in the headlight. The light is such that I can't get enough of it 🙂 Even when overtaking almost any car, it illuminates the road better than a car.
I hope you enjoyed reading this article, maybe it will even help someone. Any questions please contact 🙂
Added: 12/22/2014
Not so long ago I rewound the generator, so a few photos appeared in better quality:
Tractor generator.
On heavy motorcycles of the domestic motor industry, there are weak generators G 424, designed for a maximum current strength of only about 15 amperes and a power of only 150 watts. In addition, they are too unreliable and often burn, since the workmanship, to put it mildly, has no idea what the word quality means. I am generally silent about six-volt generator models, many call them flashlights, since the diameter of the case and the luminous intensity are the same as those of the ancient battery-powered Soviet flashlights.
And only recently, on more modern motorcycles Ural Wolf, Voyage, began to install generators for 500 watts. And then, until they began to be replaced by Japanese Denso generators, these generators either burned or their case cracked at the attachment point. The generators of the Japanese company Denso, specially manufactured by this company for Wolves, Voyages and some Sollo models, have a high price and only 500 watts, which may not suit some lovers of the right one.
Many owners of older Ural or Dnepr motorcycles install generators from Japanese companies, but from cars. They still need to be found in working order at auto-dismantling and at an affordable price, and if something burns out (they don’t like short circuits), then it will be necessary to look for a Japanese part (relay, rectifier or winding), but as you know japanese spare parts are not cheap, even such common consumables as electric brushes.
I propose to install a three-phase generator from a tractor - 462.3701, on the boxer engine, which does not have erasable brushes at all, they are not provided for by the design. In addition, it has a power of 750 watts, and its new, more modern counterpart, which has appeared on sale recently and has the same dimensions, has a power of 1000 watts.
Its main advantage over Japanese generators is the cheapness of spare parts (for example, a charge relay costs about $ 3), although nothing burned out on my motorcycle in seven years of operation. Another advantage of this generator is that it can be bought literally for a penny at the nearest tractor brigade or in a special vehicle fleet, there you can also purchase a package of spare parts just in case - a BPV-23-50 rectifier unit and an electronic voltage regulator Ya112B, an excitation coil and stator winding.
This generator was installed on almost everything soviet tractors, and on different tractors the difference was only in diameter drive pulley. The main task when installing this generator on the opposite side: replacing the pulley with a drive gear, attaching it to the engine using a specially machined adapter, and connecting the electrical wiring.
By the way, the cover bodies must be modified with a cutter by adding oval cooling holes (see photo above), since the cooling impeller is removed along with the pulley and without these ventilation holes, the generator will be hot in summer. This is done naturally by disassembling the generator completely. Disassembly is also necessary to refine the shaft.
At first, I machined the shaft to fit the gear from K 750 on it. This gear has fewer teeth, which means there will be more rotation speed than with the Ural or Dnieper gear, and this is important. With a gear from K 750, the generator gives charging already from idling, and with other gears with a large number of teeth, charging starts only after medium speeds.
But it's not that. The gear from a six-volt cacique has a very thin wall in the area of the key. Having planted and holding the gear, I assembled and installed the generator on the motor. During the trip, I turned on all consumers for verification: music at 600 watts, three headlights (300 watts), an emergency gang, dimensions and backlight. The generator easily coped with such a load and still gave a charge to 61 ampere batteries, but the gear did not - it simply broke and opened in the area of the key, like a book, due to thin walls. 
Having drawn conclusions, I immediately took this gear to a familiar milling machine and ordered a gear with the same profile and number of teeth as on Kasikow, but in the area of the key the body is much larger, for a cone fit. According to this cone in the new gear, a new generator rotor shaft was made for me, since the old shaft was machined to a smaller diameter (for the K750 gear).
Of course, it was possible to buy a new Kasikov gear and press a metal ring onto it near the key, but since I had the opportunity to find steel for gears of the ST 12 XN 3 A brand and make a new one (see photo on the left), for a cone fit, I did.
52 comments on the entry “Replacing the motorcycle generator with a more advanced 1000 or 750 watt.”
Will a standard relay from the Urals fit such a generator? And what relay is better to install))
Hello. The relay from the Urals will not fit such a generator and there is no point in installing it on it. After all, there is a native relay for this generator, which is sold in any tractor spare parts store (its marking is in the text - Ya112B). After all, the generator described in the article - from domestic tractor. And such a relay is very cheap compared to imported relays. I wrote about this in an article - its price is about 3 - 4 dollars. And only such a relay should be installed, there is a special place for it under the back cover of the generator, right on its body. In addition, such a relay is much smaller in size than the standard and ancient relay from the Urals.
Hello again, I have a couple more questions in advance thanks)) . What is the length of the shaft?, diameter? distance from gear to oil seals? distance between oil seals? Width and depth and grooves for glands? Gear length and diameter? Thank you very mucheeeeeeee))
Hello. The length of the shaft (rotor) and its diameter do not change (I did not even measure the length, there is no need for this), it is the same as in the standard factory version of the seven hundred watt tractor generator. That is, you almost do not change the factory shaft (rotor), you just grind a cone in the thread area, and all dimensions are on the drawing. The same cone (reciprocal) is made inside the new gear (there is also a drawing of it).
As for the distance from the oil seal to the gear, I don’t remember (to measure it, I need to remove my alternator from the motorcycle), but it will be visible when your alternator is assembled together with the adapter. After all, there is a place for the gland in the adapter (35 mm in diameter and approximately 18 mm deep). Both the width (35 mm) and the depth of the groove (18 mm) for the gland (it is one, but you can stick two or three if you wish) are indicated on the adapter drawing.
The length and diameter of the gear is indicated on the gear drawing, take the drawing to a gear maker and he will understand. The tooth profile and the number of teeth are the same as on the K750 motorcycle generator gear. Good luck.
Dear Oleg Hello. The generator is from a direct current tractor and from an alternating current. Reloading the battery may explode. I see two outputs or a diode bridge or an additional relay. And how did you solve this problem, especially the tractor generator 24 volts and the native Ural 12 volts?
Hello. The generator from the tractor produces alternating voltage, which comes from the windings of its stator to the rectifier (diode bridge), which is installed under the rear aluminum cover. The Ural or Dnepr motorcycle generator works in exactly the same way, that is, it produces an alternating voltage, which is also rectified to a constant one, using a diode bridge located inside the Ural generator (you can disassemble and see). That is, their principle of operation is absolutely the same, ask any auto electrician. So there can be no question of any battery overload.
The same applies to the relay-regulator, which works the same way in the Urals and on the tractor, only maintaining the desired voltage (but the relay does not rectify the current in any way).
As for the voltage, it is the same as on the Ural generator, that is, the tractor generator produces a voltage of 12-14 volts, but not 24 volts. 24 volts is produced by the Kamaz generator.
So there is no need to solve any voltage problem. The only problem is to install the generator from the tractor to the Urals, you need to make an adapter and install a gear instead of a pulley on the shaft of the tractor generator. And how to do this, I described in this article. Good luck.
Hello. Such a question on oval holes for cooling. After all, dust, for example, can get through them. Water is possible when you drive through a puddle. Will the generator fail because of this?
Hello. Even if dust gets in, then no more than all the car generators under the hood of any car. After all, the majority automotive alternators, have even more ventilation holes (and a 500-watt Ural Wolf motorcycle generator too), and nothing, they work. In addition, as I wrote in the article, there are no brushes in this generator, and there is nothing to wear out, and the bearings are of a closed type, and they don’t care about dust.
And at the expense of water, so if you drive on any motorcycle or car in deep puddle, then there will be no harm from water entering through the ventilation holes, since the stator winding is insulated with varnish, and most likely there will be a short circuit in the place where the positive wire of the generator is connected, and the relay regulator (chocolate) is installed, that is, from the outside.
Well, you yourself understand, if you drive over an ordinary puddle on a motorcycle, then nothing will happen, since water splashes immediately evaporate on a hot engine and generator.
Well, if you decide to move a very deep puddle, or wade a river, then on any machine a short circuit can occur from wires and relays, and not from ventilation holes. And in general, for extreme sports there are motocross bikes with a generator located inside the motor, and some crosses do not have a generator at all. So everything is within reason.
Yes. I looked at the photo of generators 14.3771 and denso. They just have similar holes. And it's made by the factory.
There are, of course, many questions. I’m thinking whether to try to install such a generator in the Urals or not. In the article you write about the manufacture of a gear similar to that of the K750. But if you put the standard Ural. Okay there with charging at idle. Thinking elsewhere. The weight of the generator is more than that of the native one, approximately 2 kg. Hence the thought that the timing gears will be eaten more strongly. At the same time, I do not intend to heavily load the generator - music, additional lighting, etc. Just put a starter battery (for example, a capacity of 18 A / h, a cold scroll current of 270 A) and a more powerful low / high beam lamp. Well, you can replace the marker lamps with LED ones to make it easier.
Or does it make no sense? Leave the same G424 with the corresponding battery, and make the headlight more powerful by replacing the marker lamps with LED ones?
I don’t know how much more a 700-watt generator weighs than a regular one, but the weight of the generator does not affect the load on the gears and its wear. The load on the generator rotor and, accordingly, on the guitar gears and their wear rate, depends only on the number of consumers (lights, music, heated steering wheel grips, etc.) And the more of them, the harder it is to scroll the generator rotor and the greater the load on the gears .
But the total number of consumers is very rarely used. For example, I rarely turn on music on my Dnieper (it is 600 watts) at night, when all three headlights are on. Mostly only during the day, when the headlights are not on or only one is on. In addition, I have a powerful 60 amp battery, and at low and medium speeds, part of the electricity is sucked out of the battery and the load on the generator is less.
And in general, the pleasure from consumers (for example, from high-quality music or good light) is worth it to change the gears if they suddenly wear out. Although I have been listening to music for the fifth year and always drive at night with three headlights on (300 watts of light) and have not yet changed gears. Most likely this is from the fact that every spring I change motor oil, regardless of mileage. And for 10 years until now I have not even changed the piston rings.
Well, as for whether to put you a 700 quilted jacket or leave a regular generator, with a miserable 150 watts, it's up to you. By the way, many complain that they often fail, especially after an increase in the number of consumers. And on a 700 padded jacket, there is nothing to wear out, except for bearings, because there are not even brushes on it.
In addition, if you install a twice as powerful battery, then it is advisable to replace the standard generator, designed for a battery of only 9 amperes.
However, I am not going to persuade anyone, I will say the main thing - POWER, like money, does not happen much. It is a pity that many drivers begin to understand this only later.
According to the documentation, G424 weighs 3.8kg, G700 - 5.4kg, G1000 - 5.7kg. I am inclined to put the G1000, although I have not yet decided for sure. It was the weights that confused me in that the difference in the weight of the rotors was more likely, and hence the speculation about rapid wear gear.
The main goal is more powerful high beam lighting, because the standard one does not suit.
(Accidentally posted half-finished. Sorry.)
And the standard generator and battery do not pull more powerful lighting.
As for which battery to put - depends on the generator. The question here arises - is it necessary to install a powerful battery with a powerful generator. Some say it is necessary because the generator needs some load, otherwise the power consumers and the generator itself will fail. An example of this is the dropping of terminals from the battery when the engine is running with a standard generator and battery. Personally, I did such experiments, some of the light bulbs burned out. But if you put a powerful generator, then of course a powerful battery is also better, because the quality of the standard ones leaves much to be desired.
Of course, I would like to install a powerful generator in order to supply a powerful light, a normal battery, in which I will be more confident. Here, if only not to make things worse in general.
Hello! Can such a generator with a gear from K750 be installed on the Dnieper engine?
Hello Dmitry. On the Dnieper engine, such a generator becomes without problems, look carefully at the topmost photo at the beginning of the text, it shows such a generator on my Dnieper engine. I have had such a generator on the Dnieper for 9 years and have never broken down. He allowed me to put 300 watts of light and 600 watts of music on my bike, and more.
Hello Oleg.
Plan washer for gears for 18 teeth and 16 teeth different?
I bought a gear for 16 teeth the size of 18. In general, it is made on a standard 12 volt Dnieper generator. I just can not adjust the gap between the timing gear and the generator gear. Friends drove a working tractor generator. So I'm thinking of making a generator from it to the Dnieper. Maybe there are some nuances with a gear for 16 teeth? Share your experience
Hello Dmitry. The adapter faceplate for gears with 18 or 16 teeth does not differ and does not depend on the number of teeth. And only the thickness of the faceplate depends on the height of the gear. If, for example, you bought a gear that is higher in height and which will fit on the generator rotor shaft and protrude more into the crankcase, then you will have to make a thicker faceplate. That is, if you bought some kind of non-standard gear (it is higher in height or lower than the standard Dnieper gear), you need to make the adapter thicker (if the gear is higher) or thinner (if the gear is lower) by exactly as many millimeters as the gear is higher (or lower) standard and ensure that the alternator gear and camshaft gear are in line. If your gear is the same height as from the K-750 (or like the one I made and showed in the article), then make the adapter as in the drawing in the article and everything will be OK. I hope this is clear.
As for adjusting the gap, if you make an adapter as in the article and install it with a tractor generator, then it will not be difficult to adjust the gap, since the adapter has an off center.
A 16-tooth gear is preferable to an 18-tooth one, and I wrote about this article, since the rotor generator with a 16-tooth gear will spin a little faster than with an 18-tooth one and will charge even at low speeds. That's all the nuances (this is described in the article).
And the last thing - the main thing in this matter, as I said, is to ensure that the generator gear and the camshaft gear work on the same line and are not displaced relative to each other. Well, adjusting the gap is not a problem by the sound of operation, turning the generator left and right until you find the quietest mode of operation. After that, tighten the adapter mounting nuts with the generator, that's all. Good luck.
Thank you very much Oleg.
You are welcome. Glad to be helpful.
Good day! Oleg, is it possible to order an adapter for a generator from you?
Hello Dmitry. I ordered an adapter for my generator from a turner (at a local factory), which I advise you, for this I posted the drawings. At the moment I have purchased 2 lathes, but they are still dismantled and restored, so sorry.
Will such a generator fit on the m-72? Will he have enough space?
Hello. It will rise if you make an appropriate adapter and modify the engine crankcase.
Hello, I have such a question, but there is a difference between the generators g 466.3701 and 462.3701, I just have 466.3701, but I don’t know the dimensions of the other visually from the photo, they are the same difference only in the pulleys and whether this adapter is suitable, thanks in advance
Hello Andrei. All 700-watt Soviet tractor generators differed only in the diameter of the pulleys (well, their relay-regulator has improved over time) and therefore this adapter is suitable for both generators that you described.
Hello!
Please tell me, is this faceplate suitable for a 6-volt Ural (m-66) or is it necessary to increase the eccentricity?
Many thanks in advance, Konstantin
Hello Konstantin. Suitable if you use a tractor generator and modify the crankcase of your motorcycle by removing excess aluminum and cutting threads in the crankcase (in the right places) to screw in the generator mounting studs.
Good afternoon, please tell me the generator from the Cossack is suitable ??
Good afternoon, please tell me the generator from the Cossack is suitable?
Hello. There is no point in bothering with the Zaporozhye generator, since it is slightly larger in size and half as powerful as a tractor generator (only 30 amperes instead of 60).
Good day! I read somewhere that you can not make a new plan-washer again, but use the front cover from your native 424 generator. Is it so? And what to improve, if so? Thank you.
Hello Denis. Once I thought about making an adapter from the front of the native generator, but then I abandoned this business. Indeed, for the manufacture of a faceplate from the front cover, turning and milling work will also be required. And in order to order something (some kind of detail) to a milling machine or a turner, it is much easier for them to do it from scratch (from a bare blank) according to the drawing, and not think about how and what to remake from the cover and remember what you indicated to regrind there. But this is not the main thing, but the fact that the wall of the front cover of the native generator is too thin in order to play the role of a faceplate and hold a heavier tractor generator. After all, it will still be necessary to remove the metal in it in order to make a landing for the front shoulder of the tractor generator, and this will not allow the small thickness of the front wall of the cover to be made. And the material of the cover of the native generator is not very durable. But for a faceplate made from scratch, you can choose any more durable material (steel, stainless steel, etc.), for example, I ordered a titanium faceplate, which is very strong and light. Yes, and the native 424th generator can always be sold, and with this money you can buy a used tractor generator, or pay for turning work. In general, something like that, and therefore I abandoned this venture.
Oleg! Good day. I made a 1000 tractor generator. Moroka was…. V general question- I have a motorcycle battery for 17 Ah, 160 A, will it not boil away with such a powerful generator!
Hello Dmitry. Whether your battery will boil away or not does not depend at all on the generator (whatever its power, the main thing is that the generator is in good condition), but on the correct operation of the regulator relay. And since the relay-regulator is installed native to this generator (that is, under its back cover) and if your relay-generator is working, then there will be no problems with recharging and boiling water out of the battery electrolyte, I assure you. Especially now, according to the rules, you must always drive with light even during the day and the normal load on the generator will be constant (in addition to the battery charge), so everything will be OK. Good luck.
Thank you for your reply.
Good afternoon. Oleg, could you make such a generator with gears and adapters to order? My number is 89680307407 call anytime
Hello Pavel. I made this generator for my Dnepr motorcycle several years ago and described the stages of work in detail so that everyone could repeat it and do it for themselves. I am not engaged in customizing generators, I simply do not have time for this now. So sorry.
Good evening Oleg. I attached a 700-watt tractor generator to my Urals. I drove 25 km with a standard battery, it warmed up and began to throw out the electrolyte (((this moment was very upsetting. I wouldn’t want to put a battery in a stroller with a car. Do you think the reason is in the relay or in the small capacity of the battery?
on a tractor, after all, this generator spins twice as quietly as on a motorcycle, maybe the relay can’t cope?
measured the voltage high speed 21 volts. Replaced several relays, no change.
Hello Ilya. I already wrote about this in the comments. The problem is not in the battery, but in the relay-regulator or in the generator itself. If the generator and the regulator relay are in good condition and are working normally (and they give out no more than 14.5 volts), then the battery capacity does not matter. If the relay or generator is faulty, then a large car battery will boil. So check the relay-regulator (how to check it, I wrote a separate article on the site - look in the site map), as well as the diode bridge of the generator - there is also an article how to check it. Since if one of the diodes fails, then the voltage can also be too high and the battery will boil. In general, for starters, take a voltmeter (multimeter) and check, by connecting the probes to the battery poles, what voltage comes to the battery when the motor is running. At maximum speed should not be more than 14.5 volts.
Hello again Ilya. If the relay was changed, but there are no changes, you should check the generator and its diode bridge (if one of the diodes is out of order, then the voltage will be too high). I have articles on my site on how to check a generator (and repair it) and how to check a diode bridge. Most likely they are the reason. Good luck.
Whatever the speed, twice as quiet or twice as much - the generator, if it is working, together with a working relay-regulator, should produce no more than 14.5 volts. So the rotation of the generator rotor does not matter. The reason for the increased voltage is different.
Hello. Tell me please, does it get hot at all? I installed it myself, but without ventilation holes - it gets very hot when driving around the city - you can’t touch it directly. Not everyone makes these holes, so the insulating gaskets on the stator will burn out if nothing else.
Good day Nikita. My generator also heats up, especially in summer in extreme heat, since its body lies on the engine and the front and lower parts of the generator body touch the engine crankcase (unlike mounting the generator through silent blocks on tractors). But you can keep your hand on the generator case, and yet the ventilation holes save, and for 7 years of operation of my generator, nothing in it burned out. And although it does not have a cooling impeller, the rotor (armature) of the generator itself at high speeds acts as a fan and sucks in air from the outside, it is through the holes I made in the case and expels air through other holes on the other side of the case.
Well, the fact that the insulating gaskets will burn out if there are no holes is unlikely, since they are made of heat-resistant material, but the lacquer insulation of the stator winding may suffer when heated strongly, which can lead to an interturn short circuit. Therefore, it is desirable to make ventilation holes.
If it is not yet possible to make ventilation holes, then I advise you to grind off the generator case a little more, grind off the crankcase itself a little more in the place where it touches the crankcase (although you can’t grind it off much and you need to be careful) and be sure to install a thermal insulation gasket between the generator and the crankcase, for example, from paronite or thin textolite - it will slightly reduce the temperature of the case. Good luck.
Hello everyone. We are just making G700 and G1000 generators. If anyone is not too lazy - skinte connecting dimensions and the required dimensions for your motorcycle, and I will estimate the possibility of modifying our generator in the factory. If there is an order of 5 pieces, we will make the ones you need, no problem. This is the plant LLC "Electrom" Cheboksary. Generators can be viewed on our website. The request can be sent to the mail of the design department or to me - [email protected]
Greetings! Such a question, I put the generator mtzshny, relay 68370. The control is constantly on, does not go out. I connected the wire from the lux to the D terminal. .
Hello Pavel. I don’t know what state your relay is in, maybe the problem is in it (it doesn’t turn off the lamp when the voltage increases). First of all, you need to take a multimeter, turn it on in voltmeter mode and see what voltage the generator produces. In general, it is desirable to check the operation of the generator and the relay-regulator. The generator should produce no more than 14.5 volts (I have an article on the site how to check it). The voltage should increase with an increase in speed (but preferably not more than 14.5 V, in extreme cases at the highest speed a maximum of 14.8 V), and with a decrease in speed, the voltage should drop. Well, it is very desirable to check the operation of the relay-regulator itself. I also have a detailed article about this on my site. There I painted everything in detail, by the way, and about what voltage should be. In general, something like this. In general, if I were next to your motorcycle with a multimeter in my hands, then of course I would more accurately determine the cause of the malfunction.