Everyone has modern models The UAZ suspension is fully dependent (with a rigid connection of opposite wheels). If before 1994 UAZ cars were produced only with spring suspensions, then now these cars are produced with a mixed type unit.

Features of UAZ Hunter suspensions

The front unit of the car is implemented using springs, while the rear unit uses longitudinal springs.

It consists of the following key parts:

• cylindrical springs;
• oil shock absorbers;
• stabilizer lateral stability;
• two longitudinal rods;
• lateral thrust.
• two kingpins on both sides.

The rods, together with the transverse rod, provide the necessary fixation of the bridge, on which, in turn, they depend performance characteristics cars. The rods are connected to the bridge through appropriate brackets and silent blocks, and to the frame using brackets and rubber hinges. A rubber buffer limits the maximum permissible suspension travel, and oil shock absorbers dampen vertical vibrations.

Front and rear shock absorbers are not interchangeable because one is longer than the other in compression position.

It consists of 2 longitudinal springs and 2 oil shock absorbers. A rubber buffer limits the maximum vertical travel of the bridge beam, 2 shock absorbers dampen the resulting vibrations. Stepladders are used to attach the springs to the bridge. The springs with their front ends are fixed to the frame using bushings, and the rear ends are hinged using earrings and bushings.

UAZ Hunter suspension faults and repairs

It is often subjected to extreme stress. This may result in wear or damage to parts. all-wheel drive vehicle. Durability and normal operational properties UAZ Hunter suspensions are provided regular maintenance and high-quality repairs.

Main problems and diagnostics of the front suspension

Most often, the following components and parts of the UAZ Hunter PP are repaired or replaced:

1. Compression buffers.
2. Ball joints of the lever.
3. Front wheel hubs.
4. Ball pins.
5. Front suspension coil springs.
6. Hydropneumatic shock absorbers.
7. Shock absorber strut supports.
8. Stability stabilizer.
9. Transverse traction.
10. Longitudinal rods.

To check the technical condition of the PP, you need to install the car on a repair pit or lift. You should carefully inspect the parts for the presence of deformation or cracks, evaluate the condition of the rubber-metal hinges, as well as rubber cushions. Damage or noticeable signs of aging on rubber elements are not allowed, and on rubber-metal elements - tearing off of the rubber or its twisting, cracks, or dilapidation.

The pivots should be checked for play by rocking the wheels. If play is detected, it is necessary to install new king pins along with liners. You also need to inspect silent blocks and rubber bushings.

It is necessary to check the serviceability of the rubber-metal bushings in those areas where the stabilizer bars are attached to the frame.

Frequent breakdowns and diagnostics of the rear suspension

Hunter parts that most often break down and need repair or replacement:

• springs;
• stabilizers;
• shock absorbers;
• silent blocks;
• compression buffer;
• rear beam;
• rear wheel hubs;
• buildings bridge.

The condition of the UAZ Hunter is checked at the repair pit. It is necessary to thoroughly inspect the chassis elements for deformation or cracks. Starting with the springs, their shackles and the front spring end brackets. It is also worth looking at the shock absorbers (oil leaks are unacceptable), rubber spring bushings, shock absorber hinge pads and compression buffer. All rubber elements with defects or signs of disrepair require replacement.

Often, before carrying out any repair of the UAZ 315195 suspension, it is necessary to perform dismantling work. To do this, the car is installed on a repair pit or overpass, and the wheels and tie rod ends are dismantled. The springs are dismantled using a specialized tool to compress them. Some suspension parts can be adjusted or repaired (such as shock absorbers or wheel hubs). Others, such as any rubber elements, must be replaced if they break.

PP springs gradually sag. To avoid costly replacement, the problem is solved by adding spacers.

UAZ Hunter front suspension repair

To replace springs (18 in the diagram) and PP buffers, you need to disconnect the brackets front axle(24) from the shock absorber lugs (3). Place the front part of the car on a stand. Remove the springs (18) and cushions (1), unscrew the bolts securing the buffers. Assembly is carried out in the same order. The springs to be replaced must be of the same type. If you cannot remove or insert the spring, you should additionally unscrew one end of the transverse rod.

Vehicle front suspension device

To replace the cushions (1), hinges (4), support bushings (12), longitudinal rods (15), as well as the stabilizer strut (26), you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

1. Secure the machine in a stationary position.
2. After removing the bolts, disconnect the bottom of the shock absorbers.
3. 3.Unscrew the longitudinal rod from the bridge.
4. Undo the cotter pins and unscrew the nuts (10).
5. Unscrew the stabilizer from the rod.
6. Dismantle the longitudinal rods.
7. Unscrew the stabilizer link.
8. Replace the hinges.
9. Remove and replace the stabilizer pads (7).
10. Replace the cushion (8) at the stabilizer link, and then attach the stabilizer link to the bracket.
11. Place a washer with a support sleeve (12) on the rear edge of the rod (15) and place the rod in the bracket, then put on the washer (11) and another bushing (12) and attach the nut.
12. Install the front end of the rod into the bracket (16), mark the bolts and tighten the nuts (5).
13. Install the 2nd rod in the same way.
14. Install the machine on wheels.
15. Tighten the nuts (5) with a torque of 150 Nm, tighten the nuts (10) and secure them with a cotter pin.
16. Install the stepladders (6) onto the rod and screw it on.
17. Mount the lower shock absorber lugs onto the brackets (24) and screw them on.

To replace the rubber-metal hinges, unscrew the transverse link (22) from the bridge and remove it. Replace the hinges. Reinstall the rod, using new bolts if necessary. Tighten the nuts to a torque of 150 Nm.

UAZ Hunter rear suspension repair

Removing car springs UAZ Hunter carried out in this order:

1. Remove the spring struts (6), trim (5) and pad (7) by unscrewing the nuts.
2. Place the rear of the SUV on a stand so that the springs are unloaded and the wheels touch the surface at the same time.
3. Remove the bracket bolts (8).
4. Unscrew the nut (16) of the spring eye axle.
5. Remove the spring (2) and disassemble the earring with hinges (15) and bushings (20).
6. Replace faulty parts if necessary.
7. Remove gasket (12).

During the installation of UAZ Hunter springs, you need to make sure that the curved ends on the first two plates are directed forward. Tightening the nuts of the spring stepladders is carried out with the springs loaded. The spring should be disassembled by securing it in a vice. After unscrewing the nuts, you need to remove the clamp bolts. Then unscrew the nut of the central bolt and disassemble the spring into its component parts. Remove dirt from the disassembled spring sheets, wash with kerosene, and replace faulty ones.

During any disassembly of springs, it is necessary to replace the interleaf gaskets and rubber-metal hinges. Replacing the hinge is done on pressing equipment using special mandrels. The clamps must be well attached to the sheets.

Protrusion of rivets above the surface of the sheets is unacceptable. After assembling the springs, the clamps should not interfere with the free movement of the sheets during work.

Suspension lift. According to the regulations for the TR-1, cutting the body cannot be done; they did not want to do a body lift because the center of gravity noticeably shifts (it was decided to limit ourselves to cutting the arches, more on that later). Phobos +30 mm springs were installed at the front, rod thickness 16 mm. The front shock absorbers came from the rear ones from Patrick (Patrick has American Rancho gas shock absorbers all around). The springs, original and new, were compressed with special pullers. I struggled a bit, but it worked. Experience helped self-installation Australian Ironman springs +50 mm (bar is also 16 mm) for Patrick:

Front suspension lift

Rear frame-spring spacers 80 mm, general lift to rear axle- +40 mm.

Elevator rear suspension

There were some problems too. After lifting the front suspension, it turned out that in a quiet position the distance from the front driveshaft to the anti-roll bar is only about 1 cm. This means that when the suspension “exits”, the driveshaft will hit the stabilizer.

Some people remove it (the stabilizer) completely, but this is not our method, since the car still has to get to the place under its own power along the road, so it was decided to move the stabilizer away from the cardan. We didn’t want to weld, so we think that we need to use engineering solutions to the maximum, leaving welding as a last resort. For a long time we thought about what to make spacers from, and then we remembered that on Patrick the spacers (under the springs) were installed from caprolon. The caprolon sheet was a bit expensive (they don’t cut it into pieces), but the rod turned out to be just right. Next, two spacers were made on a milling machine:

Spacers for stabilizer

During the installation process I had to replace all the bolts and use additional nuts. There are almost no threads left in the nuts welded to the brackets. As a result, the spacers on the car between the cardan and the stabilizer are more than 5 cm.

This is the result of the suspension lift. In fact, it was immediately clear that cutting the arches could not be avoided. But after the elevator it finally became clear how much to cut.

For those who like to do everything right

The suspension lift must be approached responsibly, because any change in this system can radically affect the handling, and therefore the safety of the car and you. - What are we changing? After all, it would seem that we just lift the car and that’s it. Not really. With a body lift, only the car is really lifted, and other than increasing the center of gravity, nothing bad happens. But when lifting the dependent suspension (and this is exactly what UAZ has now), all its angles and settings change. Let's figure out in order what is changing and how we can reduce the negative aspects.

Rear axle

Let's start with rear axle, since there are fewer nodes. The suspension is dependent, which means there is a triangle that is formed by a spring with a bridge attached to it, a spring shackle and a frame. It should be noted that the spring axle is not fixed in the middle, but shifted to the front.

There are several lifting methods: installing a spacer under the bracket of the earring 8, installing longer earrings, installing a spacer between the spring and the bridge and replacing the stepladders 6 with longer ones. With any of these methods, due to the fact that the length of the spring remains unchanged, the angle between the frame and the spring changes (increases). As a result, the angle between the gearbox (which is mounted on the frame) and the axle (which is mounted on a spring) increases. This means the angle at which the driveshaft operates changes. If the operating angle of the driveshaft is not optimal, then its crosspieces will quickly fail.

To bring the driveshaft angle to the correct position, you will need to use either a HOO joint or install a wedge-shaped spacer between the axle and the spring so that the axle returns to its original position. Next. Most UAZ drivers lift the suspension to install big wheels. And when installing large wheels, it turns out that they begin to touch the front part of the wheel arch. This happens, firstly, due to the fact that the axle on the spring is not fixed in the center, but shifted forward: I1, secondly due to the elevator itself, which moves the bridge forward.

To fix this, install spacers (and, accordingly, spring pads) from UAZ Patriot; in them, the hole for centering the axle is shifted back by 20 mm.

However, with this step, along with the shift of the axle back, the splines of the propeller shaft move apart. It starts to work not where it is supposed to and there is a risk of “disassembling” the cardan when jumping on a bump. In this case, it is necessary to install an additional spacer between the axle shank and cardan shaft. A complete bridge shift kit looks like this:

Catalog numbers: 3160-00-2912412-10 - UAZ spring pad 3160-00-2912422-10 - Spacer for the UAZ spring If you use the GUKA joint, then a spacer on the cardan is no longer needed, since the joint itself will lengthen the cardan. The last point is to maintain the alignment of the bridges when lifting. As you know, the bridge is centered on the springs using a centering bolt, which tightens the spring package. If you install spacers, make sure that they also contain this center hole. And when installing spacers with a 20 mm offset, you need to make sure that there is a centering hole and a protrusion simulating a spring bolt. Otherwise, when using spacers without centering, the bridge will not be installed parallel to the second bridge. Handling will deteriorate and it will constantly “eat” rubber.

Front axle

The principle is similar, but there are more nuances here. Again there is a triangle, only instead of a spring and an earring we have a spring and a longitudinal rod.

When installing longer springs, the angle between the frame and the longitudinal rod again changes (increases). The bridge turns again. Only now, when turning the axle, not only does the operating angle of the driveshaft worsen, but also the CASTOR goes into negative values. Let us recall that CASTOR is the angle of longitudinal inclination of the steering axis of a car wheel. In the UAZ-469 it is only 3°30", due to such a small angle, the car “yaws” at high speed and does not “return” the steering wheel when turning. For the speeds of the 60s of the last century this was normal, but now it delivers greater inconvenience. Therefore, increasing the caster angle is one of the first steps when modernizing an UAZ.

By increasing the length of the springs, we rotate the bridge counterclockwise and thereby reduce the castor. To return the correct castor value, you need to use one of the STO22 tips, but taking into account the new initial data. For example, when installing springs +50mm, the length of the longitudinal rod is 900mm, the angle by which the caster will change is 3.18°. This means that you need to “fill up the castor” taking into account these 3.18°

You can do it differently: move the bridge to its original position, and thereby return the castor to its place. To do this, you will need to lengthen the arm of each longitudinal rod 1, which aligns the bridge. This can be done by placing a spacer washer 10-15mm thick. To protect the thread and equalize the seat diameter, place a bushing of the same width as the spacer under the hinge.

When moving the front axle, it will be necessary to install a spacer between the axle and the front driveshaft of the same thickness as the spacer washer (similar to what was done with the rear driveshaft). In addition to the castor and the angle of the driveshaft, there are a few more points. The first is that the distance between the driveshaft and the anti-roll bar is reduced. On big moves pendants, they can meet each other with subsequent unpleasant consequences. If you don't go to highways, for example, you have a car only for trophies, then the stabilizer can be removed altogether. The rest will have to install spacers on the stabilizer bracket.

The second point is related to the Panhard rod. When installing long springs, the car is raised and the Panhard rod moves relative to its factory position. As a result of the displacement, the Panhard rod moves the bridge to the side. To return the axle to its original position, the easiest way is to install an adjustable Panhard rod.

After returning the bridge to its place, you will be surprised to note that the steering wheel is no longer level, even when the wheels are straight. This will happen again due to the triangles, where the hypotenuse in this case will be the steering rod. Do not rush to immediately lengthen the rod or rearrange the steering wheel splines. Make a few test drives on the dirt road - the springs will sag a little, take their places, then the steering wheel can be adjusted and the computer wheel alignment can be checked to finally set the length of the Panhard rod. Common to the front and rear axle suspension lift is the subsequent selection of shock absorbers. As a result: a suspension lift is a serious matter! Any change entails shifts in all operating parameters and this must be taken into account. You can’t just install big springs or just high spacers, everything needs to be changed comprehensively!

Rice. 7.1. Front suspension: 1 – front suspension spring; 2 – transverse link of the front suspension; 3 – front suspension compression buffer; 4 – front suspension spring support; 5 – front suspension shock absorber; 6 – bushings for the upper shock absorber mounting; 7 – frame; 8 – stabilizer cushion holder...

Periodically check and adjust the wheel bearings if necessary. If there is too much play in the bearings while driving, impacts occur that destroy the bearings, vibration on the steering wheel, and the tires wear unevenly (in patches). When tightly tightened, the bearings become very hot...

You will need: a “14” wrench, a special “55” tubular wrench, a wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, a hammer, a chisel, and a mounting blade. Useful advice hub front wheel Can be removed complete with or without brake disc. In case of replacing the hub, the second method is preferable...

You will need: a 14mm wrench, a reamer. 1. Brake the car parking brake, place chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle. Raise and place the front of the car on supports and remove the wheel. 2. Remove the hub assembly with bearings (see “Removal and installation...

External signs of the need to replace bearings: – increased noise when the wheel rotates; – the impossibility of adjusting the nominal clearance in the bearings. You will need: internal retaining ring remover, flat blade screwdriver, drift, hammer. 1. Take off...

Ball pins are adjusted when axial play appears in them, when disassembling the steering knuckle or replacing ball pins with liners. Rice. 7.3. Special device for removing and installing clamping bushings of ball pins You will need: keys “19”, “22”, “...

Replace the shock absorber if a leak appears. working fluid or loss of vibration damping efficiency (see “Checking technical condition front suspension parts on the vehicle"). Warning: Replace faulty shock absorbers only in pairs (front, rear) or as a set (all...

Springs are replaced for the following reasons: – deterioration in smoothness, frequent “breakdowns” of the suspension; – visible skew of the car or a significant difference in height when the springs settle more than 20 mm, which arose during the process long-term operation or due to difficult road conditions; – strongly expressed...

You will need: a 17mm socket, a wrench. 1. Remove the front suspension spring (see “Replacing the front suspension spring.” 2. Unscrew the bolt securing the compression buffer to the frame bracket... 3. ... and remove the buffer. 4. Install the new buffer in the reverse order...

You will need: keys “24” (two), “27”, pliers. 1. Place the car on the inspection ditch or, having braked the car with the parking brake and placing supports under the rear wheels of the car, lift and place the front part of the car on supports. 2. Unscrew the nut...

You will need: keys “22”, “24”. 1. Place the car on the inspection ditch or, having braked the car with the parking brake and placing supports under the rear wheels of the car, lift and place the front part of the car on supports. 2. Unscrew the nut of the mounting bolt...

Removing the anti-roll bar is necessary if its rods are damaged. To replace the bushings, simply disconnect one of the stabilizer mounts. You will need: keys “17”, “19”, mounting blade. 1. Place the car on the inspection ditch or lift and install the...

Steering knuckle removed for repair or replacement. You will need: keys “14”, “17”, socket head “10”, mounting blade. 1. Brake the car with the parking brake and place chocks under the rear wheels of the car. Raise and place the front of the car on supports,...

A new product has appeared: a suspension lift kit for the UAZ Hunter and we decided to test it on ourselves.
Moreover, there was a reason for this.

Igor, who Traveler I finally installed it on my Hunter gas equipment. The reason is very prosaic - the severe rise in fuel prices. And if for ordinary trips you can somehow put up with the inhumane price tag, then for travel this is unacceptable.
For reference: our last year's expedition to Altai was 10,000 km long. During this route, 1,272 liters of gasoline were burned and 46,571 rubles were spent on it alone.
If the expedition had taken place this year, the costs would have been close to 60,000 rubles. But for all good things you have to pay. In this case, it’s excess weight and the space taken away by the cylinders.

On the standard suspension the car sank quite a bit. In the pits the suspension began to “punch through”. The conclusion suggests itself - we need to strengthen it!
Therefore, the appearance of the redBTR lift kit could not have come at a better time. However, this product is new, not yet tested, so the decision was made to deliver and test it on a subsequent trip to the Krasnodar Territory.

The lift kit comes in a box, a list of what it includes is printed on the side:

We open the box and see the individual components.

Two cast iron spacers and spring ladders in the amount of 4 pieces along with nuts.

The spacers are very brutal. The hole for centering the spring is not located in the center, but offset, as on Patriots. We noted this moment to ourselves.

The spring ladders are reinforced and should not fail.

Spring earrings are packed in bubble polyethylene

The company logo is visible

Print it out. Beautiful.
Let's see how this beauty works...

Each of the four shock absorbers is in its own box

The box contains information on the main differences between shock absorbers and standard ones.

Inside there is the shock absorber itself in plastic packaging.

Includes: bolt, hardness 8.8; two washers; two nuts and growers

The shock absorber is gas-assisted, so it is secured with plastic tape.

Polyurethane bushings are already pressed in at the factory.

The shock absorber body is marked with the logo, number and date of manufacture

The shock absorber rod is covered with a silicone boot

There are springs at the very bottom of the box

The springs are quite heavy

For comparison, two springs: standard and redBTR +50

The box also contains instructions, with very brief description installation process.

Let's start installing the kit.
We started with the rear suspension.
We treated all threaded connections with WD-40 and gave them time to “acidify”

They began to unscrew the shock absorbers.
The upper fastenings quickly gave way, but the lower ones had to be tinkered with. The fact is that the bolt passes through the rubber-metal bushing of the shock absorber, and since the mount is at the very bottom and is most exposed to the winter salt mixture, the bolt becomes tightly soured in the bushing. Even if you unscrew the shock absorber nut, you still cannot remove the bolt.
For 40 thousand km. it has become one with the bushing.
Light blows with a hammer did not help, and working with a sledgehammer could tear off the bracket on the bridge. The solution is the grinder!
So it is very correct that the shock absorbers come with a mounting kit.

Installing the new shock absorbers did not cause any difficulties.

Just don’t forget to “pump” the shock absorber several times by hand before installation, and lubricate the bolt before tightening it graphite lubricant, then it will resist souring in the bushing for a long time.

The bolts for fastening the spring earrings have “acidified” and are safely turned away.

You can install new ones.

However, in this very simple place, a specific “ambush” awaited us.
The new earrings are reinforced, with two stiffening ribs. It is these ribs that prevent the silent blocks from falling into place.
The difference is about three millimeters, but the elastic bands are very tight and cannot be tucked inside.

We tried to squeeze it with a clamp, make guides, push it in with a screwdriver... all in vain.

We were already ready to cut down these amplifiers, but in time we asked for help from the redBTR company, where we were absolutely assured that it was possible to assemble this unit. You really need to use silicone lubricant.
Here is the life-saving spray:

Things got better with lubrication.
But the edges on the earrings turned out to be a little sharp for squeezing the elastic bands. When pressed hard, the rubber band would tear.
We got out of this situation by rounding the chamfers.

This is victory!
Here it must be said that even with the eye you can see how the two edges of the earring diverge to the sides. (The bolts are not yet tightened) And this despite the fact that this assembly was assembled manually, without the help of a crowbar. :)
As I understand it, you can advance the planes of the edges by these three millimeters in a vice, assemble the assembly and tighten it with nuts. Everything will fall into place.

Just like the edges fell into place (they became parallel) after the final tightening of the nuts.

The only drawback was revealed: the spring earrings are the same, there is no right and left one. Therefore, there were no difficulties when installing the left one, but when they started installing the right one, they realized that the nuts were looking inside the frame and it would not be possible to tighten them. You can't get inside the frame.
I had to put the earring upside down. Does not affect functionality in any way. But the aesthetic appearance suffered.

! After our comments, the redBTR company changed the design of the earrings: now the sets will include one right and one left.

Let's move on to the front suspension.

It seems like the standard springs can be removed without resorting to a puller. however, we didn’t succeed the first time.
I had to tighten the springs.
The task is long and monotonous.

Remove the old spring.
We do the same compression process with a new spring. There are several points here that can make life easier: figure out in advance how the spring will stand in the cup and, based on this, place the couplers so that they do not rest against the Panhard rod bracket or the frame. Tighten the “working stroke” of the spring - the middle turns, and not those at the edges. First we insert the top of the spring, and then the bottom.
A mounting spatula helps a lot and you may need a crowbar.

It's always more convenient with a crowbar :)
But in general, of course, it’s more convenient to work together.
And watch your fingers - the spring is very powerful.

With the second side everything turned out much faster. Here we were able to remove the old spring without compressing it with a puller.

I was a little confused by the fact that the length of the front and rear redBTR shock absorbers is the same. And the standard ones have a difference of 30mm: the front ones are shorter than the rear ones. Let's check this solution in practice.

After installing the high springs, the front driveshaft moves towards the anti-roll bar.
This results in a very small distance for the cardan to operate. We need to increase it.

Of course, for cars intended only for off-road driving, you can completely disable this stabilizer (as, by the way, the installation instructions advised). But we have a different purpose for the car, so we need a stabilizer.

For this purpose there is already on the market ready set 20mm thick caprolon spacers.

We unscrew the old bolts, install gaskets, and tighten them onto new bolts and nuts.

The necessary gap is there.

! Again, after our comments, redBTR included stabilizer spacers in their kit.

Another feature is that when the front axle is lifted, the Panhard rod moves it to the right. The bridge is moving.
To return the bridge to its place, you need to install an adjustable Panhard rod. It's not included in the kit, so I had to buy it.

We remove the old rod. Again, there are no complaints about the top bolt. And the bottom bolt turns sour in the bushing.
Let's soak. We unscrew it using a strong socket head and a reinforced wrench with a large lever.
When assembling, do not forget to apply graphite.

The setting can be done as follows: raise the bridge with two jacks so that the wheels come off the ground. We expand the Panhard rod, focusing on the distance from the frame to rim on one side was equal to the same distance on the other side.

We do the final adjustment with the wheels loaded. We tighten it.
If possible, we go to the computer stand and there we finally check the location of the bridges.

Checking the location of the steering wheel. It will probably move and will not be level. If you do it absolutely correctly, then you need to lengthen steering rod. But in my opinion this would be too much. Let's just adjust the steering wheel.

It is better to move the rear springs back, since firstly the bridge itself will move forward as a result of the lift, and secondly, when installing wheels of larger diameter, they will also move forward. So moving the bridge 2cm back will be just right!
The kit already includes spacers, and they are offset by 2cm. However, these spacers do not have a centering lip, so it will be difficult to install the bridge correctly. We got out of this situation in this way: we purchased 4 pieces. rear spring pads, article number 3160-2912422-10. The centering protrusions of two were cut off. We made a sandwich from two spacers. Its thickness was 25mm.

In order to move the bridge back, you will also need spring pads, their article number is 3160-2912412-10

Let's start disassembling the spring mounting unit.
It is better not to disassemble the spring, but to install it as is. Otherwise, assembling the spring by weight will be problematic.

Loosen the nuts of the stepladders.
We hang the car over the frame and unscrew the stepladders completely. We install new mounting plates on top and a spacer on the bottom.
We move the bridge back so that the centering protrusion on the spacer fits into the groove in the center of the bridge platform.
We screw in new stepladders.

From below you can clearly see that the bridge has moved back.

After moving the axle back, the driveshaft splines will be too long. The cardan will not work in its working position and there is a risk, for example when jumping, that it will disassemble on its own.
To prevent this, we will install a spacer between the cardan and the rear axle.

! After our tests, the redBTR company excluded spacers with an offset central hole from the kit and instead supplies spacers with the hole in the center (similar to spacers with article number 452-2912422-02)
If you do not plan to install wheels larger than 33" then this solution is quite suitable for you.

We immediately decided to test the new suspension.

Found for this country road and drove along it in the style of “getting away from the chase.” It’s good that it didn’t last long, otherwise I would have pushed through the floor in the passenger seat.

The verdict is: it became noticeably better. The suspension is softer, and bumps (even quite large ones) go almost unnoticed at speed (of course, when compared with the standard suspension). The pits are not as good as we would like. If you slow down, everything is fine, but if you drive in rally-raid mode, it happens that it hits the bump stop.

In the end, if you need sports car, then install sports shock absorbers. If you don’t travel on primers for a while, then this kit will be just right.

Photos of the car after installing the redBTR suspension:

For reference:

The catalog number of the standard UAZ Hunter front suspension springs is 3160-2902712.
Main characteristics: free spring length - 378 mm, with a load of 514 kg. 260 mm, rod diameter - 15 mm, O.D.- 135 mm, number of full turns - 8.5, working 7. Standard pitch. Hardness 37 N/mm

Springs redBTR, for +50:
The free length of the springs is 435 mm, with a load of 505 kg. 305 mm, rod diameter - 16 mm, outer diameter - 135 mm, number of full turns - 10.5, working 9. Variable pitch. Hardness 39.5 N/mm

On a UAZ Hunter, without a suspension lift, front shock absorbers with catalog numbers 3159-2905404, 3159-2905006-01, 315195-2905006, 3160-2905404, 3160-2905006 and eye-eye mounting option. Front shock absorber length: minimum - 320 mm, maximum - 485 mm, stroke - 165 mm.

The rear shock absorbers of the UAZ Hunter are longer than the front ones. The following suspensions are suitable for a car without a lift: 3151-2915006, 315195-2915006-01, 3160-2915006-04 and 3151-2905006, lug-to-lug mounting option. Length rear shock absorbers: minimum - 350 mm, maximum - 560 mm, stroke - 210 mm.

Characteristics of redBTR shock absorbers:
Shock absorber length: minimum - 378 mm, maximum - 603 mm, stroke 225 mm.
Compression/rebound force 1000/2000

Design features Adjusting the clearance in the front wheel hub bearings Removing and installing the front wheel hub Removing and installing the steering knuckle axle Replacing the front wheel hub bearings Adjusting and replacing ball pins Replacing the front suspension shock absorber Replacing the front suspension springs Replacing the front suspension compression buffer Replacing the front longitudinal rod.. .

Rice. 7.1. Front suspension: 1 – front suspension spring; 2 – transverse link of the front suspension; 3 – front suspension compression buffer; 4 – front suspension spring support; 5 – front suspension shock absorber; 6 – bushings for the upper shock absorber mounting; 7 – frame; 8 – clip of the anti-roll bar cushion; 9 – anti-roll bar cushion; 10 – support...

Periodically check and adjust the wheel bearings if necessary. If there is too much play in the bearings while driving, impacts occur that destroy the bearings, vibration on the steering wheel, and the tires wear unevenly (in patches). When over-tightened, the bearings become very hot, causing grease to leak out and the bearings to fail. You will need: special...

You will need: a “14” wrench, a special “55” tubular wrench, a wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, a hammer, a chisel, and a mounting blade. Helpful Hint: The front wheel hub can be removed with or without the brake disc. In case of replacing the hub, the second method is preferable, since the hub is supplied as spare parts without a disc. 1. Brake the car...

You will need: a 14mm wrench, a reamer. 1. Brake the car with the parking brake and place chocks under the rear wheels of the car. Raise and place the front of the car on supports and remove the wheel. 2. Remove the hub assembly with bearings (see “Removing and installing the front wheel hub”). 3. Remove the six bolts securing the shield to the steering cam...

External signs of the need to replace bearings: – increased noise when the wheel rotates; – the impossibility of adjusting the nominal clearance in the bearings. You will need: internal retaining ring remover, flat blade screwdriver, drift, hammer. 1. Remove the hub assembly with bearings (see “Removing and installing the front wheel hub”). 2. In...

Ball pins are adjusted when axial play appears in them, when disassembling the steering knuckle or replacing ball pins with liners. Rice. 7.3. Special device for removing and installing clamping bushings for ball pins You will need: keys “19”, “22”, “24”, a special device for removing and installing bushings for ball pins (Fig. 7.3), dynamic...

Replace the shock absorber if there is a leak of working fluid or loss of vibration damping efficiency (see “Checking the technical condition of the front suspension parts on a car”). Warning: Replace faulty shock absorbers only in pairs (front, rear) or as a set (all four). Shock absorbers can be replaced without removing the wheels from the car, you just need to turn the steering wheel...

Springs are replaced for the following reasons: – deterioration in smoothness, frequent “breakdowns” of the suspension; – visible misalignment of the car or a significant difference in height when the springs settle more than 20 mm, which arose during long-term operation or due to difficult road conditions; – strongly pronounced traces of the collision of the spring coils; – spring breakage. Note Replace springs as a set. ...

You will need: a 17mm socket, a wrench. 1. Remove the front suspension spring (see “Replacing the front suspension spring.” 2. Unscrew the bolt securing the compression buffer to the frame bracket... 3. ... and remove the buffer. 4. Install a new buffer in the reverse order of removal. ...

You will need: keys “24” (two), “27”, pliers. 1. Place the car on the inspection ditch or, having braked the car with the parking brake and placing supports under the rear wheels of the car, lift and place the front part of the car on supports. 2. Unscrew the nuts of the stepladders securing the stabilizer. 3. Unscrew the nut of the shock absorber lower mounting bolt...

You will need: keys “22”, “24”. 1. Place the car on the inspection ditch or, having braked the car with the parking brake and placing supports under the rear wheels of the car, lift and place the front part of the car on supports. 2. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the transverse link to the frame... 3. ...and remove the bolt. 4. Unscrew the fastening bolt across...

Removing the anti-roll bar is necessary if its rods are damaged. To replace the bushings, simply disconnect one of the stabilizer mounts. You will need: keys “17”, “19”, mounting blade. 1. Place the vehicle on an inspection ditch or lift and place the front of the vehicle on supports. 2. Unscrew the two nuts of the stepladders securing the...

The steering knuckle is removed for repair or replacement. You will need: keys “14”, “17”, socket head “10”, mounting blade. 1. Brake the car with the parking brake and place chocks under the rear wheels of the car. Raise and place the front of the car on supports and remove the wheel. 2. Remove the brake disc (see “Replacing the brake disc”). ...