Homemade motorized winch for plowing- one of the units that are very common in our area. Every self-respecting owner tries to have such a thing. Moreover, it can be used not only for plowing, but also for other household needs.
Main part homemade motor winch- this is the engine. Selecting the right ones domestic engines not very wide. The engines from the Minsk motorcycle and the Electron scooter have gained sincere recognition; the Ural and Druzhba chainsaws are used. The choice of such engines is determined by their prevalence and low cost; many engines migrate from old, already scrapped equipment, and live out their remaining life well.

Engine power must be at least 2-3x horsepower(chain saw "Friendship"), the engine should be high-torque and should start well.
Electron engines have not been produced for a very long time; they are convenient because they have forced cooling. But the engines from the “Tourist” scooter no longer work, and the winch turns out to be very heavy.

Minsk engines are optimal. They are not very heavy, they start, as they say, right away and are very common in rural areas.
The main homemade components of the winch are the frame, traction drum and lugs. Usually the frame is welded from a steel pipe or a square steel profile 25 by 25 mm. You can use an old motorcycle frame by cutting and welding it into a different configuration.
The cable drum is often made from the rear wheel hub of a motorcycle. It already has an axle, bearings, and drive gears. You can make a drum from a pipe, but it's a little more complicated.
The gas tank used is usually small, usually from a chain saw. It already has a faucet with a sump and places for fastening. The ignition is standard from a motorcycle.

The usual position of the motor winch operator when plowing is standing on the lug, holding the steering wheel, the right hand controls throttle valve- like on a motorcycle. The gears are engaged either with a standard foot lever, or a manual lever is welded on.
The speed of the plow when plowing is 4-8 km per hour, so the diameter of the drum and gear are selected in such a way that there is enough revolutions when working in first gear. If the site is long and the ground is light, you can work in second gear.

For large plot lengths, the winch is usually switched off while dragging the plow; if the plot is small, then the engine is not switched off, but runs constantly for some time. This is relevant because Minsk engines do not have forced cooling. Plowing practice shows that the usual intensity of operation of a motorized winch makes it possible to do without additional cooling.

Blades or pins welded to the U-shaped lever, on which a platform for the feet is made. The grouser is usually spring-loaded for ease of operation. Practice shows that when installing a motorized winch on a boundary overgrown with solid turf, it is much more convenient to use lugs based on metal pins - they easily enter the ground and hold the winch well.
For complete convenience, you can attach a long lever with a saddle handle to the lug, and sit on it while plowing, while simultaneously pressing the fifth point of the lug.
Electric winches are practiced in their home areas. For electric winches for plowing you need an electric motor of at least 2 kW, asynchronous motors quite heavy, and most of them require a three-phase network, which is not very convenient. Lighter single-phase electric motors are commutator motors. Electric motors from electric saws are most applicable; they are powerful, lightweight, have a gearbox and fastening, and adapt well to a winch. Engines from the Parma chainsaw are very often used, since it is very dangerous to operate and now there is a lot of good imported equipment, and the outdated Parma is used for a winch.

The most common vertical design of a motorized winch with an engine from a Minsk motorcycle (photo 1a,b) is made by local craftsmen even to order. The winch frame is made of square steel profile (from old tables and desks). The drum is located below the engine, the engine along the way is fixed above the drum.
The high location of the engine makes it difficult to shift gears by foot, so a manual lever is often used in this design (photo 1b). The winch takes up little space and can be transported in the trunk passenger car. A similar winch (photo 2a) is made on a frame made of round steel pipes with an engine from the Voskhod motorcycle, another similar one (photo 2b) with lugs in the form of blades.

Interesting winch design(photo 3a, b) of approximately the same layout, but with a more spacious frame. For ease of movement when plowing and getting to the plowing site, a wheel is attached to the frame on one side, and a large steel arch on the other. This winch takes up more space, but is more convenient for transportation.

Another motor winch design (photo 4a,b) is the so-called reverse one. It is based on a motorcycle frame, so the engine is located towards the operator, and the drum stands in place of the rear wheel. The muffler is also used as standard, the steering wheel in the fork is turned in the opposite direction. The gears are engaged with the right foot. This design is longer and lower, but requires less welding. Interesting feature This winch is forced-cooled using a 12-volt electric fan powered by a standard motorcycle generator (photo 4b - fan to the right of the gas tank).

For several years, the Kotlas Electromechanical Plant has been producing winches for the use of Druzhba and Ural chain saws as consumer goods (photo 5a,b). A double chain drive is used as a gearbox. The design turned out to be small-sized and lightweight. The winch is not very expensive, since it does not contain a standard engine, but everyone uses their own chainsaw, and is popular. As a comment, it was stated that the diameter of the traction drum is too small.

When installing a Parma electric saw on such a winch (photo 6a, b), the design becomes even more compact and lighter. The winch has enough power to plow gardens on light soils. In general, to plow heavy soils with turf, stubble, and virgin areas, it is necessary to reduce the working width and plowing depth by adjusting the plow, and hold the plow with your hands during passage, otherwise it tends to jump out of the furrow or burrow into the turf. Then either the cable breaks, if it is thin, which is very sad, or it turns the winch and the operator out of the ground, which is much better; the equipment remains intact.

An interesting design of a completely homemade electric winch is shown in photo 7a,b.
The unit is solid, three-phase asynchronous motor 3 kW. For ease of movement, the winch is equipped with long handles and a wheel. If you need to plow an area far from the power grid, there is an adapter for installing a chainsaw (photo 7b).

The main feature of this winch is the presence of a radio remote control system (the antenna connector is visible on the junction box at the top left). System remote control allows the owner to use the winch for numerous household needs, be it hauling timber, lifting heavy objects, etc. The winch is equipped with an easily removable handle-saddle (photo 8a), which is inserted into a socket-tube welded to the lug.

There are many original designs of motorized winches; our Russian home-grown designers do not sit idle (the finished frame for the winch is in photo 8b). The low-budget approach to design is associated with the low level of income in rural areas. Currently, cool units have begun to appear on imported engines, again mostly semi-handicraft, made in small batches.

Factory motorized winches rarely appear on sale, and they are consumer qualities leave much to be desired. Typically, a factory unit is modified to suit itself, leaving the base and improving some components, or used in a non-standard version. For example, there are winch designs based on walk-behind tractors. The walk-behind tractor is placed on the base, and a traction drum is put on instead of one of the wheels. Moreover, in the transport position, the walk-behind tractor carries itself and the plow is also in the cart.


Another interesting compact design of an electric winch (photo 9a, b) is produced by one of the private enterprises in Kotlas. A very successful design solution for this winch is the planetary gearbox inside the traction drum, which made it possible to minimize the size and weight of the winch. Now, in appearance, the entire unit consists of two parts: an engine and a drum, mounted on a closed frame with retractable handles. The winch's low weight allows easy-to-remove lugs to be attached directly to the main frame.

From a single-phase 2.2 kW motor there is a chain transmission to a gear mounted on the primary shaft of the gearbox, coaxial with the drum shaft, which is the secondary shaft of the gearbox. This construction power circuit allows you to install a 4-stroke imported one instead of an electric motor gasoline engine without changing the transmission. The lever (photo 9a) is used to disconnect the drum from the gearbox (cable unwinding mode)..
The design of a motorized winch on an engine from a “Tourist” or “Ant” scooter is shown in photo 10a,b.

This engine is very famous, T-200, with forced cooling. The ignition can easily be converted to a tractor magneto, which allows you to do without a battery. It starts up very well and has plenty of traction. Often used on homemade caracats. As noted above, its disadvantage for a motorized winch is its weight. But the motorized winch turned out to be quite technologically advanced, although a little heavy.

For better sliding of the cable, this motorized winch uses steel vertical rollers on bearings. This prevents friction of the cable against the cheeks of the drum when the motor winch is not installed accurately.
The lugs are pin, the gas tank is taken from an old moped.
The operation of this motorized winch with a hiller is demonstrated in the video.
A variant of a motorized winch on a Lifan engine is shown in photo 11a,b. The design is almost the same as in photo 9, the frame is slightly enlarged to accommodate the installation of an engine. The lug is mounted with a spade, rigidly attached to the frame, in the transport position it is turned upside down with the spade.
Gas adjustment - with a shifter, engine power 5.5 hp. The gearbox is planetary inside the drum. The motorized winch is configured as much as possible for ease of transportation, perhaps to the detriment of convenience when plowing. Such winches are produced by Moris LLC in Kotlas.
Well, finally, recently (September 2012) I saw a factory motorized winch for plowing in a store in Koryazhma (photo 12a, b). The winch is produced at the plant in Izhevsk. The layout is excellent, the steering handles are comfortable, they extend out of transport position during working hours. The lugs are small blades. The engine is 4-stroke imported with a power of 5-7 hp. Double gearbox - belt plus chain. Clutch - by tensioning the belt, as on cultivators, it is activated by a pedal. It looks like a pretty decent unit. There are no reviews yet, I have not yet seen this mechanism in action.
Plows, hillers and various devices for cultivating land are the topic of a separate article.

At home I had an old, dusty and oily 4-40 worm gearbox with a reduction ratio of 1:40, which served as the basis for the winch. This, by the way, can be found at a flea market for a low price and in good condition.

Having completely disassembled it and washed it in gasoline to remove oil deposits, which looked more like black plasticine, I decided to immediately change the seals. As a replacement, I used oil seals from a VAZ family car. I changed all the gaskets (replacement ones were cut out of paronite 0.6 mm thick), and adjusted the gap between the worm and the gear. Filled gear oil, and the gearbox became like new.

To determine what size drum would be needed, I first welded a frame from a 40x40x4 mm angle piece measuring 75x30 cm.

At first I thought that the cable from the drum would be unwound using the engine reverse, but this turned out to be very time-consuming and inconvenient; manually it is much easier. But for this it was necessary to come up with a coupling with which it would be possible to separate the gearbox shaft from the drum shaft and thereby unwind the cable effortlessly to the required length of the garden. And while the winch is operating, I connect the gearbox to the drum, and both shafts work together.

The coupling was made from the front CV joints (constant velocity joints) and the front hub of the VAZ 2108. The CV joint shafts have external splines identical to the internal splines of the hub. They will engage with each other. I purchased used CV joints and a hub at a scrap metal collection point (the nearest auto repair shop did not have them at that moment). I immediately cut off two parts of the shaft from the CV joint - these are what are needed to make the winch shaft (Fig. 3).

Then I started making a drum on which the cable would be wound. From a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of 114 mm I made two flanges 5 mm thick. At a metal depot I bought round steel (round timber) with a diameter of 35 mm - it served as a blank for the shaft. A round piece with a diameter of 90 mm became a blank for the drum bearing housings. By the way, keep in mind: when buying metal at a metal depot (if they cut it for you with a propane cutter), do not immediately throw it into a container of water. This metal is difficult to turn. I also had to buy a pair of 306 series bearings - these will withstand the load created by the plow.

Arriving home and drawing a drawing of the future shaft on a piece of paper (Fig. 1), I went to the turner. The time has come to collect all this into a single mechanism. I’ll say right away that winch housings can be found both ready-made and used. But there are no such stores in my city, so I asked the turner to also turn out the housing for the unit (Fig. 2).

Taking flanges with holes cut in the center for O.D. shaft, I welded them to a piece of pipe with a diameter of 114 mm. Then, passing the machined shaft through the flanges of the drum, centered it so that there was a small gap between the flange and the bearing housing, and welded the drum to the shaft. The splined shaft of the CV joint was inserted into a machined hole in the end of the drum shaft and carefully welded. I made the same slots on the gearbox. This required a second splined CV joint shaft - it was fixed to the gearbox through a machined bushing.

I made the fastenings of the gearbox and drum to the frame from a 50x50x5 mm corner. I fixed everything with tacks, because it all needs to be aligned. I welded a 50x50 mm angle to the turned bearing housings (Fig. 5): now they can be secured to the frame with bolts and easily removed if repairs or replacement of bearings is needed.

It is very important to position the housings so that when the winch is operating, the entire traction force from the housings falls not on the welding seam, but on the corner (photo 4). Then the body will not come off, the corner will provide large stock strength.

I aligned all the machined parts so that the hub moved freely and did not jam (photo 5), then I lightly secured it with welding, and when I was sure that everything was installed correctly, I welded it properly.

You can fix the winch on the ground using two short pieces of pipe welded. You just need to pass reinforcement or metal rods through them and drive them into the ground.

The engine used was asynchronous, with a power of 1.5 kW and a speed of at least 2780 per minute. The lower power one – at 750 W and 2780 rpm – failed. I found an unexpected solution - I installed an angle grinder on the winch, in other words, a grinder with a power of 2.3 kW.

Probably every owner has one, and its power and 6500 rpm allow it to cope with any load during plowing and hilling without the slightest sign of overheating. I secured it simply - with two bolts in the holes intended for installing the handle. Instead of a cutting disc, I installed a threaded pulley - and everything works great. The pulley, by the way, can be turned by a turner, or it can be made much cheaper: find a suitable pulley in scrap metal and, having precisely centered it, weld a nut for clamping the disk from the same grinder. The belt was used from the generator of a VAZ-2101 car. The grinder is tightened using the force applied by hand (photo 6).

Everything is prepared, all that remains is to attach the cable to the drum with a bolt and wind it evenly. I took the cable with a thickness of 4 mm: this one confidently copes with its task, although if your soil is heavy, you should take a 5 mm one, with a margin. I made the plow and hiller (photos 7-9) myself, since those offered on the market were not satisfactory in quality. Drawings of the plow and hiller are in Fig. 4-7. Having a welding machine, a grinder, a hammer and suitable material on the farm, making a plow and hiller is not difficult.

Preparing for work

At the beginning of the row, in the middle, we install a winch, driving in two metal rods for fixation. An assistant manually unwinds the cable to the required length. Using the hub, two shafts are connected, then we turn on the grinder - and the unit begins to work.

When hilling, you only need to slightly direct the plow to the left or right, adjusting the position of the hiller in the row. The plow also needs to be adjusted when plowing, although most of the work is done for you by the wheel in the furrow in front of the plow.

Now hilling and plowing takes much less time and effort, although, making the same winch again, I would correct a few things, making the design smaller. And so the plans include painting and modification of this winch, but even now it copes with its task perfectly.

Do-it-yourself electric winch plow - photos and drawings

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Electric winches for agricultural work are now sold in stores,

In particular for plowing the land. The winch is well made and many

for processing land plots. This winch costs approximately

$250. The principle of operation is this: one plows, the other controls,

If the plow jumps out of the ground in the process, you need to shout stop

drag him back and shout again to turn him on. Simple and funny

if the operator responds slowly. I suggest an alternative:

In terms of costs, if you buy everything, you can invest $150

electric winch

(electric motor 2.2 kW 1500 rpm - $30, cable 5 mm length 30 m - $20,

Gearbox with gear ratio 15 is possible for others - $30,

Electronic wireless call – 10 $, the rest approximately 60 $)

An important indicator is the rotation speed of the winch drum

It should be approximately, which will allow you to plow not very slowly

And don't run after the plow. The average pedestrian speed is approximately equal

4-5 km/h - rotation speed is selected by three elements

(speed of the electric motor, pulleys, gearbox and unimportant

drum diameter).

An important element in the winch is the clutch, it must

Switch the drum on and off from the gearbox in order to unwind

Cable. You can use a nut from the engine for the clutch.

A car that has a mustache and is intended to be installed

In it there is a so-called (crooked starter) handle for cranking

engine shaft cranks.

clutch

In the photo they are indicated by numbers 1 - gearbox shaft on which the movable

coupling part 2 moves along the axis and is connected by a spring

with shaft 3 which is welded to the winch drum.

Lever 4 you can disconnect or connect the winch drum

to the gearbox. This is necessary for unwinding the cable.

clutch is disengaged

The principle of operation is this: use the lever to turn off the drum

Unwind the cable at the end to the required length,

fasten to the plow or load that is necessary

move. When the winch is turned on, the clutch automatically

snaps into place and sets the drum in motion

winds the cable and moves the load towards the winch.

The winch can also be used for dragging loads

You can watch the video for an example.

Here is the wiring diagram for the remote control starter.

Cool thing makes it easier to control the winch, plowing is possible

land without an assistant, you hold the button, the plow moves, let go and stop.

This device can be connected to any electrical unit,

gate opening. turning on the lighting. control of pump, compressor,

fan and other devices. For questions regarding purchasing and

connection consultations can be contacted below in the form

The fact is that serial walk-behind tractors have extremely insufficient adhesion mass (5-6 times less than the minimum required), so they cannot create sufficient traction force for plowing: they slip. In practice, I was convinced that you can plow only if the adhesion mass is at least “600 kg (like a horse). And everyone has it wheeled tractors is calculated so that there are at least 4 tons per meter of plowing strip width. This means that the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, with its mass of 100 kg, can lift a layer only... 2.5 cm wide! To plow with a horse-drawn plow that lifts a layer with a cross-section of 20X20 cm, the weight of the walk-behind tractor (tractor) must be at least 800 kg.
It is for these reasons that the Main Directorate of the State Traffic Inspectorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia made a technically completely justified requirement for all walk-behind tractors: “It is possible to produce walk-behind tractors with an engine power of no more than 5-7 hp. And for every hundred kilograms total weight the walk-behind tractor should not have more than 1 hp.”

Back in 1998, I made a walk-behind tractor. Although its weight increased to 240 kg, I became convinced that it was impossible to plow well with it: it was heavy - I had to push the motorized plow myself. Then I made a rotary cutter. She also did not live up to my expectations. As soon as a pebble, a rhizome, or unrotted manure fell under the cutter's blades, it jumped to the surface and took off running on the cutter, as if on a wheel. And if manure was brought onto the site, then the knives did not go deep at all and the manure was wound around the cutter.

In 2000, he made the first motorized winch. Its adhesion to the soil is completely independent of weight, since it is securely held in place by an anchor, the paws of which, shaped like bayonet shovels, are buried in the soil. It is the anchor that gives the motor winch exceptional performance. It allows you to use all the engine power for useful work, which is not available to any other equipment of a similar purpose.

The fact is that both the tractor and the walk-behind tractor spend half of their power on self-propulsion. The weight of the motorized winch with a full charge (10 liters of gasoline) is only 42 kg. This means that it requires half as much metal as the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, and 14 times less than the mini-tractor from the Kutaisi, Gomel or Kharkov plants.

Well, now let's try to compare the performance of a winch, walk-behind tractor and horse. It turns out this is the arithmetic. The horse's rated power when running is about 1 hp. Its weight is 600 kg. The MB-1 walk-behind tractor is six times lighter than a horse. This means that he can use no more than “D hp” to create traction force.

The weight of a mini-tractor is comparable to that of a horse. Accordingly, it can be assumed that to create traction force it can use no more than 1 hp. My motorized winch is powered by an “Electron” scooter engine with a power of 7.5 hp. uses all the engine power to create thrust. This means that the winch is 7.5 times more productive than a horse and 45 times more productive than a walk-behind tractor!!! That is why it easily lifts a layer of earth with a cross section of 30X35 cm and can even plow virgin soil.

I copied the plow for my winch from a two-wheeled horse-drawn plow, but made it as lightweight and simplified as possible. It “holds” the furrow itself, exactly copying the one previously traversed, and there is no need to control it. Plowing with a winch is so easy and simple that even children can do it, and it is completely safe. You don't need any strength or skill for this.

In our city and surrounding area, the motorized winch has long replaced walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors.

Many who, believing the advertisement, bought a walk-behind tractor, are now converting it to a walk-behind winch using their motors. My neighbor, who has a homemade mini-tractor, has already made seven winches for all his relatives, two of which he sent to neighboring regions. He gave his first winch to his brother living in Perm about eight years ago. This was the only winch that had lugs on the front and back parts frames Perhaps it served as a model for the winch of the Perm students, who, by the way, made two big mistakes. The first is that they made the lugs in the front part of the frame, forgetting that when the cable is tensioned, a tipping moment appears. This does not make it possible to use the full power of the motor, and working on such a winch is unsafe. It happened that when plowing virgin soil, such a winch lifted a person standing on the back of the frame and threw it over the winch. Therefore, the lugs need to be installed only on the back of the frame, preferably hinged: it is more convenient to deepen them, and working with a winch will be completely safe. The person operating the winch will stand on the lugs, deepening them with their weight, which makes it possible to triple the traction force.

The second mistake is that they made the plow single-wheeled with control handles. It is inconvenient to roll it to the beginning of the furrow, and it is impossible to start the furrow from the obstacle itself (fence, building, greenhouse, etc.): the control handles get in the way. Moreover, two people must plow such a plow.

The plow must be made with two wheels: such a furrow “holds” itself, exactly copying the one previously traversed. There is practically no need to operate it, it is more convenient and easier to roll it to the beginning of the furrow, it allows you to start the furrow from the obstacle itself, and then one person can plow the winch.
Now I have three motor winches. The latter design is extremely successful: it plows, harrows, hills potatoes, loosens rows even with closed tops, allows you to plant potatoes “under the plow”, cultivate slopes of any steepness, serves as a load-lifting device, works with any cultivator, and clears forests.

In addition to all this, it (which is especially valuable) can transport a load of up to 500 kg at a speed of up to 40 km/h. The traffic police allows you to drive it on all roads without restrictions.

My motorized winch is designed extremely simply. It has two frames - main and additional. The main one is the front fork of the motorcycle, on which the engine, gas tank, drum with cable and engine controls are installed. An additional frame serves to stabilize the winch. An anchor with two grouser arms, similar to bayonet shovels, is hinged to it. The additional frame is attached to the main frame with four bolts. In its front part there are two limiting rollers for the cable in case the winch is installed at an angle to the furrow line.

To turn the winch into vehicle, the drum is removed, the additional frame is disconnected along with the anchor, the rear wheel from a motor scooter (“Tula”, “Tourist” or “Tulitsa”) is installed in the main fork frame, and then the main frame is attached to a two-wheeled trolley with a pivot bolt: a three-wheeled front-wheel drive trolley is obtained , similar to a cargo scooter.

Since the wheel sprocket of Tula scooters is twice as large as that of the Electron scooter, the speed of the trolley decreased by 2 times.
I wonder what steering column the trolleys are shifted back from the main frame; the fork frame together with the motor rotates 100° in both directions, which allows the trolley to turn 360° in place without going beyond its dimensions (so reverse gear she doesn't need it).

Note that the engine, tank, driver and passenger are located above the drive wheel, and the rear wheels of the cart are offset back from the center of the body. This increases the load on drive wheel, its grip on the road is simply excellent. The cart body is wooden, with dimensions 1.5X1.3X0.3 m. The cart frame is tubular, the wheels are from an Electron scooter.

Converting a motorized cart into a motorized winch is done in the reverse order.
Now many professional designers have become convinced that walk-behind tractors are not very suitable for plowing. The industry is starting to produce mini-tractors - their grip weight is quite sufficient for this. But using them on a personal plot is extremely difficult. The fact is that its area is very small, it is limited on all sides by fences and buildings, and on the sites themselves there are always obstacles: greenhouses, greenhouses, trees, perennial plantings, etc. As a rule, it is not possible to travel outside the site to turn around, and the tractor does this on the site, turning it into a road. After all, it has four wheels that roll the soil not only when moving forward, but also in reverse. In addition, it is incredibly expensive. With this money you can hire a plowman with a horse, without buying fuel and spare parts for 240 years, since plowing a plot in this way costs a lot. The mass of mini-tractors produced in Kutaisi, Kharkov and Gomel is 600 kg with a power of 6 hp engines, and this power is sometimes only enough to move this mountain of metal at a snail’s pace.