The idea of ​​creating a radio-controlled car appeared a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal all the time interfered with some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in designing and building such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the arrangement and operation of some components of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc. I imagined very vaguely). Secondly, there is a complete lack of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the last problem was resolved quickly and easily. I work at a computer center, and the guys who know about my passion for modeling, somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and magnetic tape drives. Of all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratio, several shafts made of quality steel for the axles and small bearings. With literature, it was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-constructor" in my own room and in the library, and found several articles that were interesting to me. To begin with, it was decided to build the most simple model(without differential, without depreciation, without bearings, engine - from the locking mechanism of the car door, power supply - 8-10 batteries STs-0.55 A / h).

After a closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of TAMIYA, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop drawings again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of branded models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and wear resistance of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I don’t even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis tried to. The chassis from the Formula 1 model served as the prototype; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. I made the differential according to the description in the "Modeler-Constructor", the front suspension is similar to the original one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During the operation, there were some nuances that did not suit me. Firstly, the complete insecurity of the wheels from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the axle a couple of times rear axle. Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under a small volume body, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of components. Thirdly, the material for the differential parts was unsuccessfully chosen, and his work did not suit me.

Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes affected mainly the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the nodes, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It is quite difficult for me to give an objective assessment of my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (however, the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than branded ones, in case of breakage they are easily restored or repaired.

Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the dimensions and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to use standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the chassis base and track, that is, to make the chassis fit any closed-type body. And finally, the chassis did not cost me $200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe the prices are lower somewhere, but we have such).

In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or claim novelty of ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the magazine "Modeler-constructor", however, I sometimes used other materials, changed and finalized something, taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I did, I bring to your attention.

Brief technical characteristics

Chassis type	back-drug
Base	260 mm
Rear wheel width	200 mm
Front wheel width	188 mm
Ground clearance	14 mm
Chassis weight	700 g
Transmission type	single-stage open gearbox; K=1:4.2 or K=1:4.5
engine's type	Mabuchi 540, Speed ​​600 different modifications
Front suspension	independent, depreciation - fiberglass plate
Rear suspension	dependent, depreciation - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper
Batteries	7.2 Vx1400mA/h plus 4.8Vx260mA/h for on-board equipment

Design Description

Chassis base

Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: chassis base, rear axle with damping system and front suspension with damping system and protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut out of fiberglass 2.5 mm thick. On this part, sidewalls 3 and 4 are installed in the corresponding grooves, which form a box-pencil case for accommodating power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. On racks 5 (material - duralumin or aluminum alloy) the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is mounted, on which the steering machines, the speed controller, the attachment points of the oil shock absorber and the protective clutch of the steering machine are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Front rear wheels Brackets 6 are installed, which play the role of protective "lugs" and, in addition, body fastening pins are installed in them. In the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the area of ​​the bumper bumper. The bumper configuration depends on the nose of the prototype and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the hood of the prototype. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, lightening windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.

Rear axle with damping system

The rear axle is made as a single easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance work. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a fiberglass plate 3 2.5 mm thick (duralumin 2 mm thick can be used). The motor mount 1 and the left wheel strut 2, made of duralumin 6 mm thick, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is screwed on top with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the motor frame and the rack. The right one is machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,

closed type. Axle 20, connecting the rear wheels, is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place of installation of the left wheel in the axle, an M2.5 hole was made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove 2.5 mm wide is propylene. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut of the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right - it is after completion) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled around a circle with a diameter of 37 mm through 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) . On both sides, the coupling is compressed by hardened steel washers 9 (washer size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disc 8. The thrust disc is mounted on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. To absorb axial forces from the pressure of the balls, a thrust ball bearing 15 is used (made of a steel bar; after turning the groove under the balls of the part are hardened). The forces in the clutch are adjusted by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axis 20, which is fixed on the axis with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right hub. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a distance washer 18 is used.

The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the basis of the chassis, this part is fixed with an M4 screw and a clamping washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the friction damping unit. The latter consists of disk-shaped friction washers 25 and springs. The friction force is regulated by moving the sleeve 27 along the axis, the fixation of which is carried out by the M3 screw. With the lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is mounted on racks 29 on the base of the chassis 1.

To dampen vibrations that occur during suspension operation, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 using a duralumin bracket (Node I). With the upper frame of the rear axle 4, the shock absorber is connected by a ball joint (Node II).

Front suspension

The front suspension was originally simplified (section G-D), and consisted of the upper and lower bars 1 made of foil fiberglass, interconnected by racks 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Node III). The swivel arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Depreciation was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On axis 6, grooves were made for lock washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disk 8.

But I didn’t like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the Modeler-Constructor magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (the details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line) The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, for greater strength they are tightened with M2 screws; item 2 is screwed with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (glass fiber 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. The upper lever 4 consists of an earring 4A, a fork 4B and an axle 4B. Material for earrings and

forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 with axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with lock washers 16. Using the same axle, a pivot post 5 is attached to the lower arm (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying it a bit). The rack 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with the help of a 4B fork and an M3 screw. Earring 4A is attached to node 1 as shown in view B (axis of rotation 15 is fixed with lock washers 16, PTFE bushings 14 are used to prevent axial displacement of the earring). The rotary lever 6 is a part made of duralumin, a steel axis 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.

Wheel disks 9 are machined from caprolactam. Hubs 10 - made of duralumin, are attached to the disks with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed version. Tires of wheels - from microporous rubber.

Depreciation is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B with an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are dressed on the axis 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 quite over a wide range.

The servo clutch is the assembly shown in section B-B. In comparison with the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redone. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a bronze part 3 is mounted in tension. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts, a pin is inserted and soldered. Thus, parts 1 and 3 are tightly connected. Rocking chair 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5 installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure a minimum play of the axis 1 of the protective sleeve, but at the same time ease of rotation of the unit. The clutch is driven by a duralumin rocker 7.

Conclusion

A few words about the model itself. The prototype was the Ferrari F40, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on the actual dimensions of the car, on a scale of 1:10. Body - fiberglass, glued to the blockhead. Control equipment - Graupner FM -314, steering machines - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).

I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts when developing and manufacturing the chassis. It is quite possible that some nodes could have been made differently, other materials or design solutions could have been used. I want to give a little advice to those who want to repeat this model. First you need to select components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc.; it is quite possible that it will not be possible to select parts according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings) and materials for home-made parts. After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If someone has any questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be glad to talk on the forum.

Greetings!

There are a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge models of aircraft reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called car modeling, what classes of models are, what categories are divided into, where to start and so on.

Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.

Model types

Monsters (Monster Truck)

The most popular class of technology for entertainment.
It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, respectively very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for ski jumping, slides and just for fun in the country.

buggy

Usually four-wheel drive. Able to overcome any type of surface, while riding on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.
It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.

Short Course

It is a pickup truck with a short base and rear wheel drive.
It has a great similarity (copy) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.

Truggy

Something between a buggy and a monster.
It is characterized by the presence of large widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome various obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise.

Crawlers

It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, low speed.
Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.

Drift

Exceptional road car.
Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.

Rally (rally)

Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of car.
As a rule, all-wheel drive cars. Differ in copy. Designed for rolled soil.

Trophy

Differs in high copy number, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft tenacious tires.
Designed to slowly overcome a variety of obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
For popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of canisters, wheels, bodies, etc. to create exact copy real trophy cars.

Scale Models

Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1:5 or 1:4 up to 1 meter long.
Scale models from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1:8. It is in these classes that the main part of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models of scale 1:10 and 1:8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for rides in yards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and coupled with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest 1:5 scale models have, in the vast majority, an engine internal combustion with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and actually repeat the design of real cars.

Engines

At the moment, car models have four types of engines:

• Electric commutator motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and is generally not interesting. Applies to inexpensive models small and micro scale. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km/h.
• Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, noticeably pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike internal combustion engines, is much easier to operate.
• Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1:8 scale. Refueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. Highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like to tinker with technology. The engine is low-volume (several cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to shoot several Horse power and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
• Gasoline internal combustion engines. Used in 1:5 scale models. Refuel with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than small displacement glow motors.

Prices

Prices for car models, unlike aircraft models, have their own clear framework. So prices for Chinese 1:18 models with brushed motors start at 3000 rubles (~80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1:8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are 1:5 scale models, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).

Complete sets (delivery options)

There are two types of delivery models:

• RTR - ready to run. This equipment means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. However, it must be taken into account that the batteries Charger and so on may not be included. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to buy glow plugs, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
• kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with receiver), wheels, an engine speed controller, and so on. Kits are designed for athletes and are not intended for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is understood that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.

Hardware (appa)

One of the most important parts in the RC hobby is the equipment: remote control, receiver, telemetry. The market offers a large number of options from very simple and budget options 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:

Up to a heaped 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:

The design of the car model on the example of my internal combustion engine truggy

General picture from the official site:

All wheel drive model. three differentials. Engine 4.6 cm3, 2.9 hp Two universal joints diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes. The glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the spark plug must be heated with a special glow, and then the spark plug coil keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:

The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starting table.
Front suspension design:

The design of the front suspension, in fact, is not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen coups, as a rule, for a car model pass without any breakdowns.

Which model to buy?

The question is complex and, as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive models, jump from trampolines and just have fun, then your choice is a monster - for example HPI Savage. Are you interested big cars On the 5th scale, you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.

Brands (manufacturers)

At the moment, there are a large number of manufacturers on the market. They can be divided into three categories:

• Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while the reliability and reasonableness of the design may suffer. You can buy as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, to gain experience in repair and operation.
• RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "according to the hospital" they have greater reliability and reasonable design than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from middle group it is necessary to consider each model separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones
• Kits from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising models for athletes in full tuning. One whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, an engine, wheels, a speed controller, and so on. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for competitions based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).

Competitions

For fans of the RC hobby, competitions are held both at the regional level and all-Russian. Competitions usually have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:

• Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
• Buggy 1:8 4wd electro
• Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
• Buggy 1:8 4wd nitro
• Hobby unlim 1:8

It is necessary to make a reservation that the classes described are some convention and may vary from city to city, depending on the popularity of certain models.
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, prepare new model from scratch for competitions based on a whale, it can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. Used can be found for 25-35 thousand.

Nitro or electro

Before the advent of BC systems, internal combustion engines ruled the world of car modeling, since brushed motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors with a power comparable to an internal combustion engine have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to set up, run in, no need to start, maintenance is an order of magnitude easier and so on. At the same time, there is a disadvantage in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.
From myself, I can say that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was on the ICE version, which I later repeatedly regretted, since maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine, coupled with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent any passer-by.

How to start?

In order to understand whether you like it or not, you will decide on the model and in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, rides. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started this way. It is also worth asking a question on the RC hobby forums.
In St. Petersburg, you can come and chat on the race track called "Under the Bridge":

In my youth, like any kid, I was very interested in radio-controlled cars. I remember how a neighbor's guy had such a car, how a line of the same boys lined up on the street who wanted to try to steer at least a little. It is clear that few people could afford such a luxury, but almost every one of us attended a circle of young technicians, where they taught how to design and create some models of technology. Do you remember how the editions "Young Technician" and "Technology of Youth" were ordered home, I still have packs of magazines in my dacha that I once reread up and down ... When in moments of idleness I open one of the magazines - nostalgia is a wave covers, it is simply impossible to contain emotions ...

My labor teacher knew how to do many things and gave us a lot, for which I am very grateful to him. I still remember our lessons - it would seem that we were given the most elementary knowledge, but how much they meant then! It is modern youth who do not appreciate what they are given at school and at the university - gaining knowledge has become something insipid and not at all valuable.

In the light of the innovative ideas of our teacher, some of us still tried to make something like a self-propelled vehicle. It turned out well, though few reached the victorious end. I, without bringing the idea to life, decided with my son to make a typewriter on the control panel. True, again, we did not reach the victorious ...

Our goal was:
1. Make your own radio-controlled model.
2. Use improvised means.

Here's what we settled on:

The steering wheel was also planned here, as you can see, control from independent suspension, a completely home-made unit (wood, cardboard, wire, screw, rubber, glue were used). The son left, and we never made the machine. Just recently, again with nostalgia, I took it out of a deep box and thought that it would be worth doing all the same what was started. True, the whole mechanism is completely beyond my power, and there is no point in bathing - modern possibilities have decided everything for us - you can buy ready-made spare parts. So the only thing left is the motor, radio control and you're done! Soon it will look like this model))))))))))))

I took the photo from here: hobbyostrov.ru/automodels/, from where, in fact, I plan to buy radio-controlled parts for implementation in my car. Only vague doubts gnaw at me ... Is it worth taking a hand-made unit as a basis or buying a finished one? radio-controlled car and make it radio-controlled. Or, as easy as shelling pears, go to the above site and buy a ready-made radio-controlled car - is it worth the bother? Because I have order with elastic guides, but there can be real problems with depreciation, durability, all-terrain ability.

Therefore, for the time being I am leaning towards the second option - as a basis, you can buy a designer and build a model to your liking, into which to introduce radio control. Still, a cardboard model is not so durable, and where will it be possible to lubricate the transmission in it?)))))) Moreover, on the same hobbyostrov.ru/ you can buy all the necessary spare parts.

In general, I will do it - I will show what happened. In the meantime, I would like to hear / see the experience of creating radio-controlled models, I'm sure that I'm not the only one who bothers with this. Maybe some specific advice?

If you have been accustomed to “turning screws” since childhood, the designer was the best gift for you, and you prefer to repair a bicycle-moped-motorcycle or a car with your own hands, then this article will most likely reveal quite a bit of new things for you. The assembly of a radio-controlled car is not particularly difficult, in particular, if you imagine what and where should be, and how to work.

For those beginners who only approximately understand how both a large car and its reduced copy work, this article will be extremely useful.

First of all, you need to decide on the purchase of the chassis. As mentioned in one of our articles, the cars come in RTR packages - fully assembled and ready for travel and in KITs for construction (which, in turn, are divided into three types, according to professional level).

Those who choose the RTR kit, do not think that the assembly is “over” for you and you can safely ride. Not at all. Optimally, you need to disassemble and reassemble your car! The fact is that factory assembly it is often “uneven” - somewhere the bolt is not tightened, somewhere there is no lock (Thread-Lock), perhaps the camber is incorrectly done or the gearbox gears are not set. Driving an untested car is a risk of breaking it on the first day. In addition, disassembly-assembly of the model is the best way to study it thoroughly. Therefore, be patient and carefully read this article, perhaps the information contained in it will be useful to you.

Check out the instructions and accessories!

Read the instructions that come with your model carefully. We will proceed from the fact that we have a KIT kit in front of us, while the owners of the RTR model will simply disassemble (in reverse order), and then reassemble. Make sure you understand all the names and terms. Check the package, all parts available must comply with the specification.

Pay attention to the length of the bolts and screws in their location. Their length should be enough for reliable fixation. Remember, the manufacturer does not supply excessively long bolts and screws, as well as too short ones. If the bolt is longer than you need at the attachment point, then it's not from here! And somewhere else, he will be missed.

Don't confuse left and right side, front and rear nodes. You need to look along the way of the car, then all sides and parts will correspond to their correct installation.

For the assembly, it is best to allocate a spacious table and a table lamp for bright local lighting.

It is better to lay a light dense fabric on the table - all small details are clearly visible on it. In addition, we recommend that you have a low box with small compartments in which small parts can be laid out. Protect your assembly area from sudden intervention by small children and animals.

To work, you will need a set of tools:

Small pliers.

Screwdriver set with cross and slotted slots. You will need small to medium sized screwdrivers.

Side cutters are small. Pliers, side cutters, a nail file, a knife can replace a high-quality multitool.

Scalpel or special knife with replaceable blades.

Set of hexagons.

Caliper.

The assembly of the model should be done according to the instructions. It is not very difficult, but there are subtleties.

1. Details from the printed circuit board should be bitten off with side cutters, and then clean up the attachment point with a scalpel.

2. Bolts and screws must be tightened without overstressing. If you have difficulty driving a screw, lubricate it with soap (for this, get yourself a technical bar).

3. Use Thread-Lock (adhesive fixative) to prevent self-loosening of bolts and screws. As a rule, the instructions indicate where it is applied without fail. But, if you feel that some unspecified node can unwind, it is better to fix it. Typically, all bolt-nut connections secure Thread-Lock.

4.Lubricate the gears, but be smart! Do not lubricate bare gears, as dirt will immediately stick to them.

5. Check and set, if necessary, the gap in main couple.

To check the gap between the gears, put a piece of paper between them and scroll the gear (should describe a full circle). If all the teeth are imprinted on the sheet, then the gap is set correctly. If there are gaps, you need to tighten the gears a little.

After assembling the chassis (assembly of the model - chassis, engine, transmission, etc.), proceed to install the equipment. Center the servos. To do this, you need to set the neutral position of the trims and turn on the transmitter and receiver (with the steering servos connected to it). The servos will immediately take the center position.

When mounting the receiver, try to install it as far as possible from the battery, speed controller, power circuits. Move the antenna also as far as possible from possible sources of radio interference.

Having decided to purchase a battery for on-board power, do not miss the voltage, size, number of cans.

When sticking rubber on wheels, be sure to wash off the factory preservative! Wash the rubber with soap and dry. Before gluing the rubber, apply risks to the discs (in the places of gluing), for example, with a large sandpaper.

If you have a directional rubber, make sure it is glued in the correct orientation.

At this time, miniature models of radio-controlled aircraft can be found on sale, this includes the Ofice Flyer, which is produced by Pilotage. On such models, you can fly in small rooms or halls with up to 10-15 people. But due to the crisis, the cost of such aircraft models is within 1000 rubles, in addition, they break down very quickly due to a very weak design, they are only enough for a few hits. Then the toy can be thrown away, or you can use the engine, receiver and battery to make a homemade product out of it.

Such models are controlled by an infrared transmitter. In this regard, flying on the street in sunny weather on such an aircraft model will not work. You need to wait for cloudy weather or evening. In total, the model has two channels for control, with the help of one the engine speed is controlled, and the second channel is reserved for steering.

In this article, we will look at how you can assemble such a mini-model of a flying aircraft yourself using a miniature radio-controlled car for office racing as a basis. Such machines cost about 250-300 rubles, which is 2/3 less than the cost of Ofice Flyer.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- a miniature radio-controlled car;
- soldering iron;
- ceiling tiles;
- adhesive for ceiling tiles;
- ruler;
- scissors, clerical knife;
- wires and other little things.

Aircraft manufacturing process:

Step one. We disassemble the machine
First you need to disassemble the machine from which the aircraft model will be made. You need to do this carefully, you should try to keep the wires of the engine and steering in their places.

Step two. Creating an airplane model
The aircraft model is made from ceiling tiles, for this you will need to download the drawing and print it. You can download the desired model drawing from. The fuselage of the model turns out to be flat, its contour is made of ceiling tiles 3.5-4 mm thick.

For the manufacture of the wing and tail, you will need a ceiling tile, spread in half. You can dissolve the ceiling in half with a piece of nichrome wire, which is connected to a power source. To do this, drills of the required diameter or other suitable items are placed under the ceiling tiles. On top of the ceiling is pressed with plywood or an MDF sheet, a weight is placed on top. Now the sheet only needs to be pulled evenly through the red-hot nichrome. The result is two sheets of ceiling tiles of the same width.

Another option is to first glue the workpiece, and then with the help of sandpaper glued to the bar, grind off the excess, but this is a rather lengthy and painstaking procedure.

The wings of the model should be arranged in a V-shape. This is done so that the model aircraft itself stabilizes during the flight.
According to the author, the easiest way is to make a twin-engine model. As an example, you can assemble a bomb model

driver with two engines.

Another option is to assemble a flying wing, as an example, the Stealth model. But for such a homemade product, you will need a controller that controls two motors, find one in radio-controlled cars it will be hard. But most often, such electronics are found in radio-controlled tanks.

The peculiarity of this model is that it does not require steering wheels for turns. The model will turn due to the fact that there will be a difference in thrust between the left and right screws. It is on this principle that the electronics in the tank work.

Even in such tanks there is a channel with which the tower is controlled. It can be used to control the elevator or turns.

If the model has only one motor control, then an actuator is used for turns. The same device is used to rotate the front axle of the minicar. It must also be carefully removed from the toy, leaving the winding intact. If the winding has been damaged, then you can do it yourself, you just need to wind a thin wire around a paper tube.

Step three. The final stage. Engine
When installing the engine, it is placed slightly skewed up, in other words, the axis of the engine should look slightly up relative to the axis of the model. The screw in the model needs to be used large, for its operation you will need to make a gearbox. Such a gearbox can be made from gears found in watches, other Chinese toys, an old printer, and so on.

And the gearbox can be made belt

If a model with two motors is going to be assembled, then in addition to mowing up, the axis of the motors should be turned slightly to the center. The fact is that at full throttle, the propellers will pull the model up, and it will take off. And on medium gas, the model aircraft will fly straight.

As for the control, if it is discrete (button), then the model will fly in a parabola. That is, when the button is pressed, the maximum engine speed will go, and the model will take off, and when the button is released, the plane will glide. There may also be a reverse button (reverse movement) on the remote control, it is better to turn it off, because if you press it when the engine is running, it can burn out, so it will rotate by inertia.