The ignition system is one of the most important in a car; in the event of a malfunction, you will not be able to get even to the nearest service on your own. The car will stand in place as if rooted to the spot.

Reasons for no spark

Sometimes the problem can be solved without the help of a service station. For example, identify the cause of the lack of a spark and take the necessary measures.

They do it like this:

• check the candle for ground (with the starter turned on, the candle is kept at a distance of 1-2 centimeters from the ground wire). If the candle is working, then a bright blue spark is sure to form between the electrodes;
• determine the presence / absence of a candle breakdown using a multimeter.

On injection cars, the presence of a spark is determined using a tester on a piezoelectric element.

Sparking may be absent under the following conditions:

• spark plugs are out of order / flooded;
• there was a breakdown high voltage wires;
• breakdown of the ignition coil;
• poor ground wire contact;
• incorrect operation of the computer;
• switch failure;
• the gap is lost or the contacts are burnt (distributor);
• crankshaft sensor needs to be checked.

In injection cars, the spark should be checked very carefully, since you can “kill” the electronic unit.

To understand at what point the spark disappeared (from the distributor, coil or from the candle), it is recommended to use a spark gap.

Sometimes there is no spark in all cylinders of the engine at once, in which case the controller, the entire ignition module, the coil or the central wire are subject to verification.

To begin with, you should definitely take care of your own safety (put rubber under your feet), only then proceed to find out the state of the ground contacts, high-voltage wires and the integrity of the fuses.

Checking candles

Checking the wire high voltage if there is a violation of the insulation - only a replacement will help. We turn on the ignition, if there is still no spark, we turn to the candles. We inspect the contacts, if they are dirty, clean them, and best of all, change the old candles to new ones.

Before replacing, we determine whether the discharge reaches the candles. To this end, we remove the candle wire, bring it to the car body by ½ centimeter and turn the starter. If there is no spark between the body and the wire, or it is not white-blue, then the problem is not in the candles, but elsewhere, most likely in the coil.

Coil spark test

Is the coil in working order? is the main question to be answered at this stage. To do this, pull out the wire from the distributor-breaker and carry out a procedure similar to checking spark plug wires with it. There are only two options here:

• First: there is a spark, which means that the problem lies in the distributor-breaker.
• Second: no spark - fault on the ignition coil.

Then we inspect the distributor-breaker (for the first case) for oxidation and insulation violation. Next, we check the rotor, if it is faulty, we change it to a new one.

In the second case, we examine the coil. It should not have damage, burnt points (evidence of a short circuit), otherwise - repair, but more often - replacement of the coil. Everything is done, there is a spark, but the car still does not start, this happens when the ignition switch malfunctions.

Advice from service station workers: do you want to pay twice? Buy cheap spark plugs - the most common cause of no spark. But is it worth tempting fate and nerves?

How to determine if the spark has disappeared from the injector?
You turned on the ignition, you hear how it buzzed, turned on, fuel pump, but the car engine, for some reason, does not start. Why? To answer this question, the first thing you would be advised to do in this situation is to check the high voltage wires for a spark. In order to do this correctly, you will need a spark gap.

At the same time, please note that if you decide to test the presence of a spark without a spark gap, pulling the wire slightly away from the body mass, then if a large spark gap or self-induction current appears, there is a possibility of complete damage to the ignition module and the controller itself. And if at the same time the insulation is also damaged, then you will also get a blow of great force. For the same reason, do not start checking the spark charge after you attach a candle with a high voltage wire attached to it to the motor housing. These are also wrong actions. It must be taken into account that in automotive engines of the injector type, voltage is applied simultaneously to two injectors, which is why it is recommended to use a spark gap.

If you don't have one, it's easy to make your own. There are many circuits that are suitable for making a surge arrester that can test four high voltage wires at once for the presence of a spark, and there are also those that control only two wires. The finished arrester must be connected to the wires and the starter must be started. If voltage was applied to two injectors at once, and a spark did not form on any wire, then either the ignition coil is out of order, or the wire is damaged or breaks through to ground.

In case if no spark immediately on two, out of four pairwise connected, wires, then this indicates damage to either the controller, or the entire module, or the ignition coil, or damage to the wire. To solve this problem, it is first recommended to check the resistance in the wiring, if it is not more than 200 kOhm and there is no big difference between the resistance of other similar wires, then there can no longer be any talk of a violation of the integrity of the wires. Then you should test the controller by checking the RAM codes. In the event that the module and coil diagnostic functions are not in the controller, then you just need to replace the ignition module with a new and serviceable one, and check for a spark. Its absence will indicate damage to the wire between the coil and the controller.

Now consider how you can test for a spark when there is an ignition coil on each of the engine cylinders? When no spark on one of the coils, then it must be replaced with a serviceable one, temporarily taken from another cylinder. If the spark does not appear again, then it means that the previous coil was in good order, and the reason for the absence of a spark in this injector is due to controller malfunctions or a broken wiring. For example, if an MP7 brand controller is installed, you first test wire No. 68. To do this, touch it with a free terminal of a control lamp connected to the "minus". Then, monitor wire #66 by connecting with another terminal to detect the presence of "minus".

If the light comes on, then everything is in order in this pair of wires and you should start testing. One way to test is to start the ignition and turn off the fuel pump. If in this state the crankshaft is turned using the starter, the pump will start pumping fuel if the sensor is working. True, there are brands of controllers that start the pump only at the number of crankshaft revolutions specified by the program. Another diagnostic method is that a control lamp is connected to two randomly selected injectors on the connectors. If the sensor is OK, then during rotation crankshaft, the lamp flashes on and off intermittently.

After making sure that the sensor is in perfect order, you can conclude that the cause loss of spark at the injector either the controller or the wiring of the electrical circuit suitable for it between the coils or the ignition module serves. Experience shows that controllers fail mainly when the transistor between the primary winding and the "minus" in the ignition coils is knocked out. For the same reason, there may be problems with the ignition module. However, if the manufacturer covered it with a compound, then there can be no talk of any repair, although the controller itself can be fixed. To do this, you will need to have basic soldering skills, and be somewhat of a connoisseur of electronics.

What to do if a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor is detected? It should be noted here that this happens very rarely. main reason malfunctions may be weak contact at the junction or oil or dirt ingress, as well as as a result of a short circuit of the wires or their rupture. Sometimes, after repair, they are incorrectly laid, thereby disturbing the operation of the sensor.

If, as a result of testing, you find that all the candles spark well, but the engine still does not want to start, then it is recommended that you read the article “Why

Many motorists encountered on the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine that the spark disappeared. What is the cause of this defect? The first thing that suggests itself is the ignition. But, in this case, not everything is so simple, because the problem may lie deeper than it seems at first glance.

The video considers the situation when you lost a spark on the road, and:

General view of the engine 10-12 series 16 valves

Not all motorists know the reasons for the disappearance of the spark, and even more so the methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting. So, it is worth identifying the main reasons, and then deciphering why they become the cause. In conclusion, you need to consider ways to eliminate the defect. So, what reasons can cause the spark to disappear:

• High voltage wires and their location.
• Gas distribution mechanism.

All causes have been found and it is worth proceeding to the process of eliminating this malfunction.

Are you giving a spark? Troubleshooting!

First of all, it is worth noting that you do not need to immediately rush to check. As practice shows, there is a certain sequence of actions and malfunctions that could lead to the disappearance of a spark on a 16-valve engine.

Fuel pump

Fuel pump manufactured by Bosch

Ignition is far from the first cause of ignition failure on a car. Before getting into the electrical part of the car, it’s worth delving into the mechanics, so to speak. Turn on the ignition and listen to see if the petrol pump is running.. If he is silent, then it is necessary to check whether gasoline enters the cylinders.

It is worth starting the diagnostic procedure by checking the fuses for serviceability. Of course, you can only view the one that is responsible for the fuel pump (in this case), but it is recommended to diagnose everything for integrity. If at least one is out of order, then it must be replaced.

The fuses are located to the left of the steering wheel under the light switch.

If the previous procedure did not help, then we turn directly to the pump itself. For diagnostics, you will have to remove the entire module, which is located under the rear sofa and disassemble it.

It is easy to check the pump directly - the contacts are closed through the tester. If there are no indications, then the part is “dead” and needs to be replaced. If the pump is “live”, then it is necessary to clean contact group and check the wiring for breaks.

Spark plug

The location of the spark plugs on the engine

The candle becomes the second frontier, which can cause the spark to disappear. We unscrew the elements and carry out visual diagnostics. If everything is clean and beautiful outside, then it is necessary. Of course, you can check the performance of a candle on a special candle stand, but not everyone has one in the garage. Therefore, we do everything the old fashioned way.

We connect the candle to a high-voltage wire, which is connected to 1 cylinder, and with the outer side to the body to get a ground, and we give an ignition contact.

When performing this operation, you should be extremely careful, because the voltage that enters the spark can be fatal. Thus, we check all the candles for the presence of a spark.

Alternative way to check spark plugs

Checking the spark plug using a piezo element from a conventional lighter

Ignition coil

Checking the high voltage wire with a multimeter

A breakdown or failure of the wire will immediately become known, since. But, if the BB wires are located incorrectly in the cylinders, then you will have to place them according to the connection diagram. The missing spark problem should be gone.

Gas distribution mechanism

The last place where you need to look for the missing spark is the timing. Stuck valve timing can be a problem. This could happen due to incorrect installation of the stub disk. It is located on and serves as a reference synchronizer for the sensor. With its correct location, when cylinder 1 is in the TMV, the sensor is placed between the 19th and 20th teeth. .

conclusions

The loss of a spark on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 may be the result of the failure of several vehicle components at once or each individually. But, if the operations indicated in the article did not help, then you should contact the specialists at the car service, who will accurately identify the cause and eliminate it.

Malfunctions of ignition systems are always unpleasant, because each of them negatively affects the operation of the motor. The latter either stops, or stalls, or does not start at all. This development of events is known to many owners of old cars equipped with a distributor.

What is ASZ

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There can be several reasons for the lack of sparking. Most often, the distributor with its elements becomes the culprit. But no less well-known reasons are: a bad battery (battery), the armored wires themselves, the ignition reel or its winding.

As you know, the ignition system of a car or NEA is designed to effectively ignite the fuel. It is clear that without a spark, there can be no talk of any ignition. No wonder, after all, NEA gasoline engine also commonly referred to as a spark ignition system.

Depending on the type of process control, there are several gas stations. On domestic classics, for example, contact ASZ is used, and on foreign cars - transistor or electronic.

The distributor in the contact ASZ plays the role of a distributor of current and energy in the cylinders. At the same time, it performs the function of a current energy storage device.

If in the contact ASZ accumulation and distribution is carried out in a single mechanism (distributor), then in the BASS (transistor system) the switch is responsible for the accumulation, clearly interacting with the Hall sensor. As for the distribution of energy, it is still controlled by the distributor.

It is noteworthy, but in most cases the spark disappears at the most inopportune moment. For example, if you urgently need to go somewhere in your car.

Old-fashioned way to "revive" a contact

Usually the way it is. Yesterday the car was in order, it started on the first try. In the morning - as "dead". Any car savvy motorist will pull the spark plugs out and inspect and test them first. No spark.

Further verification is carried out already on the coil. It is necessary to inspect the main armored wire, whether current flows through it. No spark again?

Here's what to do:

• Check if current is going to the bobbin (coil).
• Check if there is voltage to the switch.

If there is voltage, but the spark does not go through the armored wire, the first doubt immediately falls on the bobbin. It is removed, checked thoroughly, called. Is she working? It would seem an opportunity? But this often happens. Don't panic.

And here the distributor itself, the distributor, comes to the fore. It is dismantled, the hall sensor is removed, it is cleaned of oil (it happens that it gets inside).

As a rule, these actions are enough to reappear a spark on cars with BSZ ( contactless system ignition), where the distributor becomes the "culprit" of the loss of voltage. And the reason that the spark has disappeared is either oil getting into the sensor, or a weakened contact.

This often happens: the wires / communications connecting the switch and the distributor give an unreliable, weakened contact. The old "old-fashioned" method of touching everything with your hands is 100 percent effective here. Thus, it is possible to "revive", "revive" the contact.

This method will help save on the purchase of a coil, hall sensor or switch. Not infrequently amateurs in car services, poorly versed in the matter, send the car owner to the store for parts that are actually in perfect working order.

Looking for a spark

A spark in the distributor should appear between the contacts (between plus and ground). This is clearly visible if you remove the distributor cap.

You can check whether there is a spark or not on the open distributor (with the cover removed), as follows: turn on the ignition (turn the key half a turn), go to the distributor, turn the slider several times (turn it). In this case, a spark must necessarily appear between the contacts.

You can check if current is flowing through the coil wire like this. Take a portable diagnostic tool (two wires with a bulb). One wire clings to ground, and the second with a probe is placed on the contact of the distributor. If the light comes on, then there is current. It goes 100% through the coil armored wire.

You can check the spark without a device.

• We remove the main armored wire of the coil.
• Take off the distributor cap.
• We turn on the ignition.
• We turn the slider, as in the case described above, but we look at the armored wire.
• We see a spark.

In a word, the process of searching for a spark can be simplified if several checks are carried out in turn.

1. Make sure the battery is good. You can check it different ways. It will be very effective to check the battery for a horn. In other words, honk - if the sound is strong, then the battery is in order, it produces a normal current.
2. Check armored wires. They should be inspected carefully for insulation failure. It is recommended that you check the spark plug wires. They must be brought to the mass (any part of the car body) by 5 mm, and then turn on the ignition. At the same time, the spark should beat brightly, it should be white-blue in color (provided that the candle is in order). If there is no spark, the search continues.
3. The spool or coil is checked like this. The main armored wire is pulled out of the cover of the distributor (the one that goes to the coil). It is placed so that the tip does not touch anything, but is clearly visible. The starter turns on, if a spark appears at the end of the wire, the search for a spark must be continued. If there is no spark, the bobbin is faulty.
4. Checking the distributor should begin with an inspection of the cover. It is recommended, just in case, to rinse it with gasoline, and then inspect for cracks. Be sure to inspect the central graphite rod of the cover. Check out his work. And it is important to definitely check the rotor. If everything is in order with the distributor, the search automatically switches to the LV (low voltage) circuit.
5. To check it, as a rule, a portable device with a 12-volt lamp is used. The power of the control indicator should not exceed 3 W. One end of the carrier is connected to the LV terminal of the distributor, the other - to the mass of the car. Now you need to turn on the ignition and check if the light is on. Normal mode - the indicator goes out when the contacts are closed and glows when the contacts are closed. If the light does not go out at all, then either the breaker contacts are heavily oxidized, or there is a wire break.

Reading 5 min.

The main topic of today's article will be such questions: "Why are there no sparks on high voltage wiring?" and “What to do if there is no spark VAZ 2114 injector?”.

Probably, many motorists have encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, so if the engine vehicle does not start, but the driver hears the functioning of the fuel pump in the tank, then you need to pay attention to the ignition system. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark on high voltage wires. That is why the main topic of today's article will be such questions:

Why are there no sparks on high voltage wiring? What to do if there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring of a VAZ 2114 car?

Naturally, in addition to these questions, we will consider a few more and here are a few of them:

• What is the ignition system of a car VAZ 2114 injector?
• Diagnostics of the electronic part of the VAZ 2114 system;
• The main breakdowns faced by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car;
• The main signs of a breakdown of the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
• Diagnostics of the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
• Algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
• How to check whether there is a spark or not?
• What to do if there is no spark on a VAZ 2114 car?

Basic information about the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car

The VAZ 2114 brand car is based on the VAZ 21093 platform and is its improved version. A new steering wheel, an updated dashboard, an adjustable steering column, a new heater and power windows appeared here. The changes associated with the abandonment of the carburetor in the design of the VAZ 2114 car on an injection engine began to occur much later compared to foreign manufacturers, but these changes turned out to be quite useful.

An injector is a method of guiding a car's engine system. In addition, it is a delivery method fuel mixture.

On machines with an injection engine, the fuel mixture is supplied using a computer, through special nozzles. Most likely, every car owner has ever encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, but the driver hears how the fuel pump functions, then pay attention to the ignition system of your vehicle. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark on high voltage wires.

During the operation of the machine, some malfunctions of electrical components may occur and this may affect the operation of:

• Instruments, and this does not make it possible to control the ignition system and other components;
• power unit, thereby leading to the impossibility of developing standard power;
• Instrument fixture and convenience mechanism, which includes the lighting, heating and power windows.

The main breakdowns faced by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car:

• Reducing the power of the car;
• Failure during the development of vehicle engine power;
• Idle instability;
• Violation of the normal functioning of the cylinder.

You need to start looking for the cause of ignition system malfunctions with the formation of sparks on high voltage wiring.

Sparking process

If you hear the fuel pump running, but there are no sparks on the high voltage wiring, then check the functioning of the ignition system. The system is checked for the presence of sparks on high voltage wiring, and for this a special device called a spark gap is used. The use of this device is considered more comfortable, because most injector-type engines use static distribution of ignition with simultaneous transmission of high voltage to two candles.

To carry out such a check, you need to connect the arrester and turn the engine using the starter. If sparks appeared only on one of the wires, then the reason is a breakdown on the mass of the wire or the output of the coil. Sometimes the cause may be a break in the wiring or winding, which relates to the ignition system module of the machine.

If there are no sparks on several wires at the same time in any sequence, then the cause of the malfunction is the coil, module or vehicle controller.

Please note that a breakdown may occur due to the fact that the high voltage wiring line is broken. In this case, it is necessary to check the high voltage wiring for integrity, and this can be done by measuring the resistance level of the wiring itself. The standard resistance value on the wiring should be no more than 200 kilo-ohms. It is also worth paying your attention to the fact that there should not be a big difference between the resistance levels of the wires.

Ignition module on a VAZ 2114 car

If the discharge of sparks from high-voltage wiring has always been stable, this indicates that the cause of malfunctions injection engine is in the spark plugs.

If there are no sparks, then the cause of the malfunction may lie in the primary chain that runs from the generator to the ignition coil. Most often, the cause is a malfunction of the ignition module, and most in a simple way determining whether this is the cause or not, it is considered to establish an accurately functioning device. That is, if sparks appeared after the replacement, then the problem was in the ignition module, and its repair is not provided for in the instructions for use.

The algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal on battery or using the mass disconnect button;
2. We remove the tip from all candles;
3. We bend the latch, disconnecting the low voltage wiring block of the module;
4. Disconnect the high voltage wires from the module connectors;
5. We unscrew 2 bolts securing the crankcase to the engine with a key of 13;
6. We loosen the 3rd bolt together with the head using a 17 key;
7. We remove the module together with the bracket;
8. We unscrew the bolts securing the module to the bracket. They are located under the hexagon;
9. Installation takes place in reverse order.

If sparks still did not start to form, then it is very likely that the reason lies in the controller or the wiring connecting the module and the ignition coil. In this case, you need to check for sparks on all cylinders in turn, and if there is no spark on any coil, then replace it with a nearby one. If, after replacing one coil, another spark appears, then the cause is a coil failure, otherwise the controller or wiring is broken.