The modern pace of life has contributed to the fact that moto scooters have become widely popular. Thanks to the 49 cm3 engine, lightweight design and ease of control, they are used by both young people when moving around the city, and adults when going on business, to the store or to the country. The downside is that with the arrival of winter, riding a scooter becomes inconvenient and dangerous, since the diameter of the wheels is small, even at winter tires, does not allow you to confidently drive such a vehicle on icy and snow-covered roads.

To solve this problem, install a crawler track on your motorcycle in place of the rear wheel. This will turn vehicle into a snowmobile that can travel on deep snow.

DIY snowmobile tracks

You can use caterpillar parts from the Buran snowmobile as a propulsion device. (photo 1), but if you can’t find one, you can buy a new one. From one such caterpillar you will make 4 blanks. If you have like-minded friends, team up with them and buy the necessary part together. In this case, the cost of the caterpillar for each participant will be noticeably lower.

I contacted a company that supplies propulsion kits and obtained from them a plastic ski without attachment to the fork and a narrow rubber track as spare parts.

Do-it-yourself children's snowmobile from a scooter

The design of the scooter does not need to be significantly changed. This will allow you to minimal costs time and effort to put it back in place standard equipment vehicle with the end of winter and use it again in the warm season.

If you do not have lathes and milling machines to produce the necessary parts, you can buy ready-made ones, or use those that are found in your garage or car dismantling shop. Also, you can make some elements yourself using simple tools and a welding machine.

In a store that sells spare parts for snowmobiles, I bought a driven sprocket for a Buran snowmobile track. I bought two more wheels from a standard Chinese scooter for children and two small rubber wheels with roller bearings from a cart. The gear ratio in the scooter transmission is designed for operation of this vehicle according to good roads at speeds up to 40-60 km/h. When driving on snowy roads, the load on the engine will increase, and its power may not be enough, and a speed of 40-60 km/h on snowy and slippery roads is generally dangerous. Therefore, I changed the gear ratio, replacing the drive wheel of the scooter with a wheel of a smaller diameter from a sports go-kart. To do this, I had to cut out a brake drum with splines for the drive shaft from an old dented drive wheel disk of a moped and drill holes in it for attaching a wheel disk of a smaller diameter (photo 2).

To prevent the caterpillar from slipping and sliding off the wheel while moving, I made special hooks (photo 3) made of plastic water pipes that fit into holes on the track. It is almost impossible to select a rubber tire so that its circumference is a multiple of the whole number of pitches of holes on the track. I made a bandage of the required diameter from a strip of roofing metal, on which, using MB furniture cap screws with a large head, at an equal distance from each other, with a step corresponding to the location of the holes on the caterpillar, I secured the hooks (photo 4). The bandage was put on the wheel and attached to the tire using the same bolts (photo 5).

I made an improvised soft drive sprocket for the caterpillar from an ordinary wheel.

I made the driven sprocket by connecting with M8 bolts a ready-made plastic drive sprocket of the Buran snowmobile with two rubber wheels from a trolley with roller bearings. A stud with M10 thread fits the axle (photo 6).

The crawler frame was made using metal corners and square pipes (photo 7). I do not give the dimensions of the frame and its various parts, since those who want to repeat the design will be guided by the brand of their scooter and the dimensions of the track they have chosen.

For my moped, I purchased a special ski from a motorcycle kit, but an ordinary wide homemade wooden ski or a plastic one is quite suitable - from children's snow scooter“Argamak”, only a metal ridge (undercut) must be attached to it from below, so that slippery road the scooter did not lose control. The ski is attached to the front fork of the scooter through a special rack and has two degrees of freedom of movement, due to which when the scooter is tilted to the left or right, the entire plane of the ski remains on the snow.

The plastic body kit of a scooter is very fragile in the cold and also has pockets. The snow that gets into them melts in the garage and then freezes, thereby increasing the weight of the scooter. I decided to make a minimal cover over the track, a wide platform for the feet and a decorative shield for the front fork, and for long trips in cold and windy weather I installed a windshield.

It’s not difficult to make a caterpillar casing from fiberglass yourself, but before gluing the casing, you need to make a matrix. From a suitable size piece of plexiglass, polycarbonate or any other plastic, we cut out the side of the future casing (photo 19).

We put it on the sheet larger size, which will serve as the other wall of the matrix, and using hot glue along the perimeter of the sidewall we attach plastic corners.

Now we cut off a strip of thin and flexible plastic, equal in width to the future casing. We assemble the matrix by attaching the previously cut sidewall, bottom and large panel to the corners with glue. We coat the joints of the parts with plasticine. Thus, a matrix was obtained for gluing the caterpillar casing.

Then we cut the fiberglass into pieces the right size and, coating them with epoxy resin, place them tightly in the matrix. After a day, we disassemble the matrix and remove the resulting casing. All that remains is to cut off the excess fiberglass along the contour and paint the product.

The foot platform was also made using a similar technology, but silver powder was added to the epoxy resin to give it viscosity and color.

This summer of 2016 it was time to convert my Chinese scooter () into something more suitable for my long fishing trips in the Chusovaya River area. A trip at the beginning of June () spoiled my nerves a little and inspired me to accelerate the development of a more suitable vehicle for driving on any roads and even in places where there are none at all...

Within a month, I assembled my all-terrain vehicle, although so far it cannot be called an all-terrain vehicle in the full sense due to the drive only on the rear wheel.

But there is still a lot of time ahead and perhaps a drive to front wheel will also appear. This possibility was initially included in the design.

The frame is taken as a basis of a scooter, the engine is moved forward. A homemade rear swingarm was added, the front fork was half converted to accommodate a wide and large wheel. The tires used are from a UAZ car, the wheels are also converted from UAZ ones. Homemade hubs with 203 bearings. Wheels without tires look like this:

Sprockets and chain from an IZh motorcycle.
Further refinement of the design is underway. Options for lightening the weight of the resulting all-terrain vehicle are being explored and, for starters, we made a regrower (). I cut the tread on the tires, which at the same time lightened the all-terrain vehicle by more than 3 kilograms. Now we need to trim the rubber on the sidewalls of the tire.

Truly the first test for MOMM-7215 was a fishing trip on the Chusovaya River, which was successful, apart from a couple of minor hiccups. You can read more about this trip on the page -

The trip revealed the following:

Pros:
1.Usage big wheels at low pressure they increased cross-country ability by an order of magnitude, and also significantly smoothed out road unevenness.

Cons:
1. Again, due to the wheels, the all-terrain vehicle’s handling has decreased, which seems to be affected by the lever-type front fork and low tire pressure. This is especially evident on large, hard uneven surfaces such as broken ruts, large stones (by smooth road no problems with control). In the future, perhaps we should try replacing it with a telescopic fork. I categorically do not accept the abandonment of shock absorbers (as is used on many two-wheeled all-terrain vehicles).
2. The significant weight of the wheel assembly requires at least balancing it, because at a speed of about 50 km/h an unbalanced wheel begins to affect the all-terrain vehicle. We also need to continue to look for ways to lighten the weight of the wheel assembly. There are options...

January 5, 2018. The winter turned out to be little snow and I decided to once again test the capabilities of my all-terrain vehicle on the knurled ski track. What came out of this can be seen in the following video:

To be continued…

Transport that you can drive in both winter and summer without problems, but not a car. What is this? Well? This is a familiar scooter, but with minimal additional cash and resource investments it turns into a snowmobile, but what about in the summer? back on the scooter. Difficult? Not at all, especially considering that the idea of ​​such a transformation has been around for a long time.

In principle, you can turn anything into something necessary, the main thing? wish. And since there is plenty of desire, then turning a scooter into a snowmobile should not be a problem, especially since the conversion process? This is just removing the wheels and putting skis with tracks in their place. Now are you convinced that you can do everything with your own hands?

You will need the following:

Is it actually a caterpillar (or mover)? This is the most important element of the future snowmobile, since the quality of the ride depends on it. Alternatively, you can make it yourself from a tire. And since it is a vicious circle, the possibility of a break is minimal.

So the process is as follows:

• cut off the bead from the tire using a shoe knife;
• cut along a plastic pipe (in the ratio diameter? thickness? 40 to 5 mm)? These are lugs. They must match the width of the tire. Attach them to the drive belt every 5-7cm using M6 bolts.

Is the mover made from a conveyor belt in a similar way? the only difference is that the ends of the tape must be overlapped by approximately 3–5 cm, secured with the same bolts.

If there is neither one nor the other, craftsmen suggest using V-belts, and they need to be fastened across the width with lugs, because according to inside There are already cavities for the gears. Or you can even purchase a ready-made copy, for example, a caterpillar from Buran, but in monetary terms this is a very expensive pleasure.

Regardless of the chosen option, the width of the track directly affects the cross-country ability of the future snowmobile, but is it worse? for controllability. For example, factory widths of the canvases? 15, 20 and 24 inches in ratio standard, wide and extra wide.

We're starting to remodel

So what is the main goal? To use the scooter for its intended purpose in the summer and as a snowmobile in the winter, minimal changes will need to be made to the design. Namely? remove the wheels and install a ski in place of the front one, in place of the rear one? mover.

We fasten the ski with our own hands using a stand, in which the left and right sides work separately, independently of each other (or, in other words, a frame made of corners on top, and a rod on the bottom). This type of design is extremely safe because, firstly, it helps the ski stay on the snow surface. Secondly, the scooter-snowmobile will not spontaneously go sideways, will not become uncontrollable on ice, and the wear of the ski when moving on asphalt is minimal. Besides, a rod? According to its function, it must be a skate, not straight, but semicircular, so that the steering wheel can freely turn in different directions both on snow and ice.

We continue to make a vehicle with our own hands, and now it’s the turn of the caterpillar, which stands in place of the rear wheel.

So, you will need a driven sprocket from a snowmobile? Buran?, two wheels, small, with roller bearings, a wheel with a diameter like that of a moped. So, we cut out the splines from the moped wheel with brake drum and, having drilled a hole in it, insert a smaller disk there. To prevent the mover from sliding off the resulting wheel, we make similar hooks with our own hands from the plastic water pipes that were used for the caterpillar.

We take roofing metal and make a bandage out of it with our own hands, for which we attach hooks to furniture screws at a distance, taking into account the location of the holes on the caterpillar. That is, by attaching the bandage to the moped wheel with hooks, we get a drive sprocket for the propeller.

Now you will need to connect the Buranov star with two roller wheels with M8 bolts, and a pin (M10 thread) will be used as an axis. A square pipe and metal corners are suitable as a frame for the caterpillar. It is difficult to name any specific dimensions, since in this matter it is necessary to proceed from the brand of the scooter itself and from the size of the track.

Practical information

Making your own snowmobile from any scooter? It's a simple matter, if you have the desire. Approximate speed of the latter? 40-60 km/h. If we take into account the weight of the finished converted unit and the weight of the passenger? The speed of the snowmobile will be within 20–45 km/h. Moreover, this takes into account the use of the original engine. Its advantages include that it is quiet, has a CVT gearbox, forced cooling, light weight, electric ignition, consumes little fuel, and does not vibrate. In general, a real find for DIYers.

The only thing that can significantly reduce the power of the unit and increase the weight of the entire structure? These are snow-filled pockets that are included in the design of the scooter. To prevent this from happening, you can make a casing with your own hands that will cover the upper part of the caterpillar:

• take polycarbonate, organic glass, any other plastic;
• from the taken sheet we cut out the sides of the future casing;
• we fasten them using hot glue and plastic corners;
• take flexible and thin plastic, if possible, and cut out a strip whose width is equal to the width of the casing;
• we assemble everything into corners and coat the joints of the parts with plasticine;
• Now we cut out pieces corresponding to the casing from fiberglass, coat them with resin, and then lay them tightly on the structure;
• After a day, everything will dry, and it will be possible to trim the resulting protective casing as needed.

With your own hands, as you can see, you managed to turn an ordinary scooter into a snowmobile. Minimum investment time, effort, money? This is what distinguishes this design from others. And by the way, this one power unit quite capable of pulling behind him both a sled with children and a loaded cart.

Is it possible to make a simple winter moped that could become not only entertainment, but also an assistant for those who live in villages and towns? “Such a moped could also be used for snow removal,” writes Slava Polkovoy from the Pskov region, “after all, after a snowfall, you spend hours clearing debris near your house.”

Indeed, why not? After all, a good help is two horsepower, enclosed in the cylinder of a moped engine. If you make a motorized tractor with such a motor, it will help you not only remove snow from the paths with a simple plow, but also take it on a sleigh to a designated place.

So, a winter moped. You will need the following purchased components and assemblies: engine type V-50 (or Sh-58 - Sh-62) with the necessary equipment: carburetor, air filter, ignition coil; front fork from “Verkhovyna”, “Riga” or “Karpaty”; rear pendulum fork from any moped; a shock absorber from a Minsk or Voskhod motorcycle, as well as a plastic canister with a capacity of about two liters and a fuel tap with a sump. In addition - a steering wheel with a control handle throttle valve carburetor and clutch and brake control levers. Well... of course, a pair of wheels - for example, from a Riga-made mini mokika or a motor scooter. For the frame, select steel (preferably seamless) pipes of various diameters. Clearly, stock up on a welding machine.

Look at the picture. As you can see, a “winter” moped is not too different from a regular one, except that instead of a wheel, a ski is installed in front (which, however, can easily be replaced with a wheel when summer comes). And one more thing. The rear wheel, equipped with snow chains, is mounted in a pendulum fork, not with two side ones, as on serial mopeds, but with a central shock absorber from a motorcycle.

If you are not going to completely copy our moped, I can recommend a completely universal method for designing and manufacturing two-wheeled machines.

To begin, cut out from thick cardboard the silhouettes of all available purchased components and assemblies - the engine with clearly marked mounting units, the front fork, the fuel tank, exhaust pipe and muffler, rear swing fork, shock absorber, rear wheel. Now lay out the silhouettes on a large sheet of paper or plywood and find for them the only possible position that your design instinct, design taste and common sense will tell you. Don’t forget that the driver is also included as a “component element” in the “person-vehicle” system. That is, it makes sense to cut out an articulated silhouette model from thick cardboard in accordance with your anthropometric dimensions - it will help avoid mistakes when configuring the car .

So, the silhouettes took their place on the plaza sheet. Secure them to it (say, with a couple of small nails) and outline them with a colored pencil. Now you can draw a frame that will unite all the units into a whole. It will be based on two pipes - a spinal (longitudinal) and a vertical one. The first is where the steering column, upper engine mounting assembly and seat box are mounted. On the second is the rear engine mounting assembly and the axis of the pendulum fork. To create a frame with an optimal configuration that combines all these elements means making it as simple as possible, with minimum sizes and accordingly mass. But at the same time as durable and rigid as possible.

Having determined the configuration and location of the frame elements using the selection method, draw it on a plaza drawing (take a pencil of a different color). Next, you should draw the mounting components for installing the engine, brackets for fixing the shock absorber, the position of the saddle cushion - and the life-size plasma drawing of the moped is basically ready.

Let's move on to the second stage - making the moped frame, and then assembling the car. First, the pipes - spinal and vertical - are adjusted directly according to the drawing. Then they are tacked together with several welding “spots”. Also adjust the reinforcing gussets, engine mounting units, steering column, pendulum fork mounting unit. Having carefully checked the conformity of the frame to the plaza drawing, as well as its symmetry relative to the longitudinal plane, weld all joints sequentially with step-by-step control of the frame's fidelity to the drawing. This will then avoid distortions of the entire structure.

The seams of the welded frame are cleaned with a file, the pipes are sanded, after which the metal is primed and painted in two or three layers with air-drying alkyd auto-enamel.

The front steerable ski of a winter moped is made of wood. Of course, the best one will come from a piece of mountain debris, but you can glue it together from several layers of plywood, and then edge the sole with a thin steel sheet.
The snow chain is assembled from links of a steel chain of suitable size. You can, of course, simply wrap the wheel with such a chain, but a more reliable option is a composite bandage similar to a car chain made from individual elements.

Please note that winter mopeds do not have footrests. The fact is that the driver has to help himself with his feet while driving to maintain balance, so it is best to put miniature plastic skis on them or, as a last resort, make “skis” from scraps of children’s skis. Their length is no more than 400 mm. I note that the brake on the moped is only on the rear wheel with manual drive.

To work in tandem with a moped, make two towed devices— “snow plow” and cargo sleds. The first is for clearing paths. It consists of two boards with a cross section of 30X300 mm and a length of about a meter connected in the shape of the letter A, with a jumper approximately in the middle of this letter A. Of course, such a “plow” can only remove freshly fallen snow. The cargo sled is an ordinary plywood box mounted through spacer bars on two children's skis.

Of course, carry out all work on cleaning and transporting snow in first gear. If the engine starts to “sneeze”, you will have to install a larger diameter sprocket on the rear wheel. That's all.

Yes, when switching to the summer version of the moped, standard footrests and, preferably, a foot brake are installed on it.

The numbers in the figure show:

1 — rear pendulum ailka, 2 — seat cushion, 3 — fuel tank(from a plastic canister suitable in volume and dimensions), 4 - reinforcing gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 5 - seat base (box made of sheet duralumin), 6 - frame spinal tube (steel pipe with a diameter of 36 2.5 mm ), 7 — steering wheel (from Monica “Karpaty”), 8 — strengthening gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 9 — front vipka (from mopeds like “Riga”, “Karpaty” or “Verkhovyna”), 10 - rubber guy-shock absorber, 11 - bracket (pipes - 22X2 mm in diameter, supports - 2.5 mm thick frame, gusset - 3.5 mm thick steel). 12 - wad (glued from plywood blanks, the sole is a steel sheet 0.8 mm thick), 13 - engine (type V-50 or Ш 58 - Ш-62), 14 - vertical frame pipe (steel pipe with a diameter of 36X2.5 mm ), 15 — rear engine mounting bracket (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 16 — shock absorber (from motorcycles like “Minsk” or “Voskhod”), 17 — snow chain, 18 — rear wheel.

3. SLAVETS, engineer

The idea itself was read from motorcycle magazines. In them I saw that it was possible to buy a tracked engine and convert an ordinary motorcycle into some kind of homemade snowmobile. And since it is possible to convert a motorcycle into a snowmobile with your own hands, then why not try doing the same with a scooter.

At the very beginning I had an idea as caterpillar engine use part of a regular “Buranovskaya” caterpillar (photo 1). But I couldn’t find the old track from the Buran snowmobile, and I didn’t buy a new one - it’s expensive to buy a whole one just for one quarter of the track.

I had to contact a specialized company and buy a rubber track from them, and even a plastic ski.

In the pre-thought-out and verified design of the scooter and at the same time the snowmobile, the main thing was that the scooter in warm weather should remain a scooter and only become a snowmobile only in winter. That is, the process of converting a scooter into a snowmobile and back should be very simple - remove the ski and tracks and put the wheels back.

I don’t have a milling machine or a lathe, so I used all the components and parts either ready-made, store-bought, or those that you can make with your own hands using ordinary tools and.

In a store that sells snowmobiles, I bought a drive sprocket, again from a Buran. We also had to buy wheels from a children's scooter, and two wheels with bearings from a garden cart.

Now for the power of a snowmobile scooter.

In the scooter's transmission, the gear ratio allows for movement on asphalt at speeds from 40 to 60 kilometers per hour.

It is absolutely clear that when driving on a snowy road, the load on the engine immediately increases, and it may well be that its power is not enough. In addition, “flying” through snow and ice at such a speed is dangerous. Therefore, the gear ratio had to be changed by replacing drive wheel scooter with a smaller wheel, from a kart.

To make such changes to the design, from an unusable moped rim I cut a drum (with splines) for the drive shaft. And I drilled holes in it that will help secure a smaller disk in it. The result is shown in photo No. 2.

The problem with the caterpillar sliding off the wheel and its possible slippage was solved this way: I made it with my own hands from ordinary plastic pipes for a hook. In subsequent assembly, they will fit into the tracks of the snowmobile scooter. They can be seen in photo No. 3.

Since it is very difficult to choose a tire with a circumference suitable for the number of steps on the track, I had to do the following.

I made a kind of bandage of the required length from a metal strip. Then I marked equal distances on it corresponding to the step on the caterpillar and attached the previously made hooks from plastic pipes to them. To attach the hooks to the metal, I used M6 bolts. (Photo No. 4) . Then I secured the bandage to the wheel with the same M6 bolts. The result is visible in photo No. 5.

Thus, with my own hands I made a kind of soft sprocket, which will be the leading sprocket for the sprocket of a homemade snowmobile scooter.

As driven sprocket The following design was made - the drive sprocket from Buran was fastened with M8 bolts to the wheels from the garden cart equipped with bearings, which I mentioned above. I used a threaded rod M10 as an axis. The design can be seen in photo No. 10.

Snowmobile scooter frame.

The frame was made from metal pipes and corners (Photo No. 7)

The frame is made with arbitrary dimensions - it all depends on the length and width of the track you choose and the size of your scooter.

As I mentioned above, I had to buy a plastic ski for the winter scooter - making it with your own hands would take too much time and effort, and it is not expensive. In principle, if you wish, you can, of course, do without buying it and just make a wooden one with your own hands, and it’s definitely worth equipping it with a metal skate so that the scooter can be better controlled when moving in the snow.

I attached the ski to the moped fork using a homemade stand (photo 17-18), for greater safety the left and right side the forks operate independently (i.e. they have two degrees of freedom of movement). With this design our homemade snowmobile can turn in any direction and the ski will not rise, but will remain the entire plane on the surface of the snow.

The plastic body of the scooter becomes very fragile in the cold; moreover, its design is equipped with pockets into which snow gets packed, which increases the weight of the snowmobile scooter, and therefore reduces power when moving.

For winter, the casing was kept minimal. It will be located only above the caterpillar, but a large platform is needed so that there is somewhere to put your feet in oversized winter shoes, and for decoration, I wanted to make a shield to install it on the fork of a snowmobile, which can easily be equipped with a windshield for traveling long distances or in the wind and snow.

In principle, making a casing for installation on a caterpillar with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to make a template for fiberglass (matrix).

To do this, from polycarbonate, which is increasingly used for, or plexiglass, or the like. materials (as long as they are of comparable sizes), first cut out the sidewall (Photo No. 19)

We turn it over and place it on a large sheet - it will be the wall of the template. Then we use hot glue to secure the plastic corners around the perimeter of the side wall.

Next we need a strip of flexible plastic. Its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the casing being manufactured.

Now we begin assembling the template (matrix), for which we secure the panel, bottom and prepared sidewall with glue. We seal the joints using plasticine. The template for making the casing is ready.

Now cut the fiberglass, and coat the pieces of fiberglass with epoxy and place it on the template.

After 24 hours, disassemble the template, cut off the excess fiberglass, paint it, and the casing for your homemade snowmobile scooter is ready.

The platform for the feet was made in exactly the same way, with one exception - I added silver pieces to the epoxy for decorative purposes.

The main work is done - all that remains is to put everything together and the homemade snowmobile scooter made with your own hands is ready.

Do-it-yourself snowmobile scooter - photo for article

Of course, our homemade scooter snowmobile is not suitable for driving in very deep snow; the power and width of the track in it is still not the same - it will “burrow in” - keep this in mind if you assemble your own version of the snowmobile-scooter with your own hands.

But on the road or in snow with a depth of up to 15 centimeters, such a homemade “winter” scooter walks very confidently and can even tow a small load behind it.

In the spring, it’s easy to make an all-terrain vehicle from a snowmobile converted from a scooter, for which you remove the ski and install a wheel.

Homemade snowmobile from a scooter - photo

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