Dear visitors to the site “”, today we will look at one of the options for assembling a snowmobile from a scooter with your own hands. Mainly that no fundamental changes have been made to the design and the scooter can be easily converted from a snowmobile into an all-terrain vehicle) an excellent and moderately economical means of transportation, both in the city and in rural areas. This type transport is especially popular among teenagers, because it is an intermediate link between a bicycle and a real motorcycle) With the onset of cold weather, motorcycles are placed in the garage and remain there until spring, but not in our case, because a scooter is made into an excellent snowmobile for fishing trips)

To make a scooter out of a full-fledged one, you will need a rubber track, in this case it is borrowed from the Buran snowmobile and cut in half. You can also make a rubber track from a tire from passenger car, you will, of course, have to work hard to punch square holes for the pitch of the star, make metal heels, but it’s free) The author adapted a wheel from a go-kart as a leading star, the fact is that such a wheel is slightly smaller than that of the scooter itself, which reduces the speed and increases traction characteristics cars. A metal band with teeth secured with furniture bolts with a flat head is screwed onto the wheel. The driven star is made from the original Buranovskaya with the addition of wheels from a trolley on the sides, the support rollers are wheels from a children's scooter. The frame and track mount are welded from corrugated pipe and angle iron.

The ski is borrowed from children's snow scooter, a metal guide is installed at the bottom so that the snowmobile feels stable on the road. The ski also has a floating position, that is, when tilted, it remains flat on the snow.

A kart wheel is used as a leading star. The wheel is fitted with a metal band with teeth made from PVC pipes secured with furniture bolts. The driven star is from a Buran snowmobile, with wheels from a trolley added to the sides. Wheels from a children's scooter were used as support rollers.
Assembling the track and installing it on the scooter. The track protection is made of fiberglass.
Ski fastening and facing. Ski from a children's snowmobile. Testing a snowmobile on loose snow.

The modern pace of life has contributed to the fact that moto scooters have become widely popular. Thanks to the 49 cm3 engine, lightweight design and ease of control, they are used by both young people when moving around the city, and adults when going on business, to the store or to the country. The downside is that with the arrival of winter, riding a scooter becomes inconvenient and dangerous, since the diameter of the wheels is small, even at winter tires, does not allow you to confidently drive such a vehicle on icy and snow-covered roads.

To solve this problem, install a crawler track on your motorcycle in place of the rear wheel. This will turn vehicle into a snowmobile that can ride on shallow snow.

DIY snowmobile tracks

You can use caterpillar parts from the Buran snowmobile as a propulsion device. (photo 1), but if you can’t find one, you can buy a new one. From one such caterpillar you will make 4 blanks. If you have like-minded friends, team up with them and buy the necessary part together. In this case, the cost of the caterpillar for each participant will be noticeably lower.

I contacted a company that supplies propulsion kits and obtained from them a plastic ski without attachment to the fork and a narrow rubber track as spare parts.

Do-it-yourself children's snowmobile from a scooter

The design of the scooter does not need to be significantly changed. This will allow you to minimal costs time and effort to put it back in place standard equipment vehicle with the end of winter and use it again in the warm season.

If you do not have lathes and milling machines to produce the necessary parts, you can buy ready-made ones, or use those that are found in your garage or car dismantling shop. Also, you can make some elements yourself using simple tools and a welding machine.

In a store that sells spare parts for snowmobiles, I bought driven sprocket snowmobile tracks "Buran". I bought two more wheels from a standard Chinese scooter for children and two small rubber wheels with roller bearings from a cart. The gear ratio in the scooter transmission is designed for operation of this vehicle according to good roads at speeds up to 40-60 km/h. When driving on snowy roads, the load on the engine will increase, and its power may not be enough, and a speed of 40-60 km/h on snowy and slippery roads is generally dangerous. Therefore, I changed the gear ratio, replacing the drive wheel of the scooter with a wheel of a smaller diameter from a sports car-go-kart. To do this, I had to cut out from an old dented drive wheel disk of a moped brake drum with splines for the drive shaft and drill holes in it for mounting wheel rim smaller diameter (photo 2).

To prevent the caterpillar from slipping and sliding off the wheel while moving, I made special hooks (photo 3) made of plastic water pipes that fit into holes on the track. It is almost impossible to select a rubber tire so that its circumference is a multiple of the whole number of pitches of holes on the track. I made a bandage of the required diameter from a strip of roofing metal, on which, using MB furniture cap screws with a large head, at an equal distance from each other, with a step corresponding to the location of the holes on the caterpillar, I secured the hooks (photo 4). The bandage was put on the wheel and attached to the tire using the same bolts (photo 5).

I made an improvised soft drive sprocket for the caterpillar from an ordinary wheel.

I made the driven sprocket by connecting with M8 bolts a ready-made plastic drive sprocket of the Buran snowmobile with two rubber wheels from a trolley with roller bearings. A stud with M10 thread fits the axle (photo 6).

The crawler frame was made using metal corners and square pipes (photo 7). I do not give the dimensions of the frame and its various parts, since those who want to repeat the design will be guided by the brand of their scooter and the dimensions of the track they have chosen.

For my moped, I purchased a special ski from a motorcycle kit, but an ordinary wide homemade wooden ski or a plastic one - from a children's snow scooter "Argamak" - is quite suitable, but you must attach a metal skate (undercut) to the bottom of it, so that slippery road the scooter did not lose control. The ski is attached to the front fork of the scooter through a special rack and has two degrees of freedom of movement, due to which when the scooter is tilted to the left or right, the entire plane of the ski remains on the snow.

The plastic body kit of a scooter is very fragile in the cold and also has pockets. The snow that gets into them melts in the garage and then freezes, thereby increasing the mass of the scooter. I decided to make a minimal cover over the track, a wide platform for the feet and a decorative shield for the front fork, and for long trips in cold and windy weather I installed a windshield.

It’s not difficult to make a caterpillar casing from fiberglass yourself, but before gluing the casing, you need to make a matrix. From a suitable size piece of plexiglass, polycarbonate or any other plastic, we cut out the side of the future casing (photo 19).

We put it on the sheet larger size, which will serve as the other wall of the matrix, and using hot glue along the perimeter of the sidewall we attach plastic corners.

Now we cut off a strip of thin and flexible plastic, equal in width to the future casing. We assemble the matrix by attaching the previously cut sidewall, bottom and large panel to the corners with glue. We coat the joints of the parts with plasticine. Thus, a matrix was obtained for gluing the caterpillar casing.

Then we cut the fiberglass into pieces the right size and, coating them with epoxy resin, place them tightly in the matrix. After a day, we disassemble the matrix and remove the resulting casing. All that remains is to cut off the excess fiberglass along the contour and paint the product.

The foot platform was also made using a similar technology, but silver powder was added to the epoxy resin to give it viscosity and color.

“If something is worth doing, then only what is considered impossible.” Oscar Wilde

On this “skeleton” I went for spare parts. And then I heard: “It looks like the scooter is stolen if it’s all without lining!” And... he looks like the Terminator.” I remember the phrase about the Terminator. I arrived home and realized that I would not return the original plastic to him. I wanted to do something completely unusual in the style of unforgettable Hollywood characters. Later, another idea appeared - to create something similar to a motorcycle, but with the original transmission - a sort of scooter. But for this you need to redo the frame and the entire layout! Spent a lot of time thinking. One evening I watched Predator on TV. And it dawned on me - this is what I need! And away we go...
I remembered the skill of a welder - this is how a frame a la Ducati’s “birdcage” appeared - not only beautiful, but also durable. There was no special skill, but there were enough tools. Laser pointers and even a rotary laser level were used. Every detail I made with my own hands was a struggle, because there was nothing to take measurements from, and sometimes I myself didn’t know what it would look like.
There was a time when I earned my living by making art products from plaster and concrete - it came in handy: I ​​sculpted a Predator mask from plasticine and made a multi-piece mold from it from plaster. Then he laid glass mats impregnated with polyester resin into it. The same goes for all cladding elements. I decided to make the tank also fiberglass, and installed a copper grid in the walls to remove static electricity. Later, the tank and seat were combined into a single part to reduce the number of fasteners and ease of dismantling.
I was haunted by the standard rear suspension- Well, it didn’t look good in the new layout, there was no “airiness” and “openness” in it. I had to make an adapter that simultaneously played the role rear wing and was a support for a monoshock absorber, like the Italjet Dragster 50. Oh, and I suffered with it!
The rear suspension adapter is asymmetrical, of complex shape, welded from metal 3 mm thick. First, I made a mock-up of the adapter from cardboard, then I marked the mounting points to the scooter “leg” - the transmission. For rigidity and reliability, I used the maximum possible number of attachment points - on the left (in the direction of travel) I used the upper bolts of the variator cover and two free points (after dismantling the starter, which I refused without regret, fortunately it starts “with half a kick”), as well as a powerful “point” ”, freed from the dismantling of the original shock absorber. On the right are two mounting points for the exhaust pipe, I also used them. I specially supplemented the adapter with small stiffening ribs.
I found a monoshock absorber at a scooter parts store. But the point of its lower attachment had to be tinkered with. The lower “ear” of the VAZ shock absorber was suitable for it. Having pressed out the old silent block, I welded the ear to the adapter, reinforced it with gussets and pressed in a new one. I made the upper mount to the frame with the possibility of “adjustment” - I drilled several pairs of holes, and during the ride I chose the optimal position. The monoshock really changed the look of the scooter. At one time I even wanted to give up the idea of ​​​​the Predator image and make a naked one. But the problem is that there is nothing to expose: there is simply no engine in the usual “motorcycle” place.
The hood turned out to be voluminous, so the musical guts - a Pioneer receiver, electrics and a 20 Ah battery - were sent to where they had previously placed their feet. From above, all this is closed with a lid into which Alpine speakers are embedded. It’s gratifying that there was room for music on such a little thing! The control of the receiver using a computer cable was moved to the steering wheel, and the panel from the receiver was also moved there.
I installed it under the tank and belly LED backlight, and made the headlight eyes bright orange and extraterrestrially aggressive. The tail of the “Predator” is metal, the frame is made of thin pipes and sheathed with thin (1 mm) metal. I did this for rigidity, since it is convenient to move the bike by the tail.
I didn’t touch the engine, I just removed the carbon deposits and polished the purge windows, because I was making the engine for my daughter, and she still doesn’t need the power. Air filter connected via an extension cord and hidden inside the frame. This is a necessary measure - a step is located in its regular place.
I painted the bike with paint with a “hammer” effect, and many people bought it: “How much does it weigh if it’s all metal?” But the weight increased slightly (from 68 to 75 kg), mainly due to the battery and music. But since these weights are located low, the bike has become very stable, which is convenient when stopping at traffic lights - you hardly have to expose your legs.
This small (length 1500, width 610, seat height 750 mm) alien hunter will not get lost anywhere, and not because of the lighting - it is on every palm tree, flower bed and bush, and not because of the music - it is from every car, but will not be lost because it is unique.
And the phrase about the Terminator doesn’t leave me alone. Making an iron Terminator with a red eye and a naked skeleton is too easy. But “Liquid Terminator”...
What do I need? A scooter, a cast iron pot and a large iron spoon...

This is my first attempt to make a simple scooter something unusual. It's a shame I didn't start doing this earlier.

There are replicas of the Predator theme - a lot of helmets and a couple of bikes, but there is no such Predator, and even one made from a “hole”.

sludge aggregate	Engine 3KJ (Yamaha Aprio), variator and belt Malossi, Tecnigas release.
Chassis	Frame based on Yamaha Aprio, rear suspension with central shock absorber, fiberglass (5 l) gas tank, cast wheels (China), Pirelli tires.
Other	Modified mountain bike handlebar, fiberglass lining, LED lights and a brake light. Audio system: Pioneer receiver, Alpine speakers.
Project budget	About 60 thousand rubles (with a “donor”).

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Is it possible to make a simple winter moped that could become not only entertainment, but also an assistant for those who live in villages and towns? “Such a moped could also be used for snow removal,” writes Slava Polkovoy from the Pskov region, “after all, after a snowfall, you spend hours clearing debris near your house.”

Indeed, why not? After all, a good help is two horsepower, enclosed in the cylinder of a moped engine. If you make a motorized tractor with such a motor, it will help you not only remove snow from the paths with a simple plow, but also take it on a sleigh to a designated place.

So, a winter moped. You will need the following purchased components and assemblies: engine type V-50 (or Sh-58 - Sh-62) with the necessary equipment: carburetor, air filter, ignition coil; front fork from “Verkhovyna”, “Riga” or “Karpaty”; rear pendulum fork from any moped; a shock absorber from a Minsk or Voskhod motorcycle, as well as a plastic canister with a capacity of about two liters and a fuel tap with a sump. In addition - a steering wheel with a control handle throttle valve carburetor and clutch and brake control levers. Well... of course, a pair of wheels - for example, from a mini mokika made in Riga or a motor scooter. For the frame, select steel (preferably seamless) pipes of various diameters. Clearly, stock up on a welding machine.

Look at the picture. As you can see, a “winter” moped is not too different from a regular one, except that instead of a wheel, a ski is installed in front (which, however, can easily be replaced with a wheel when summer comes). And one more thing. The rear wheel, equipped with snow chains, is mounted in a pendulum fork, not with two side ones, as on serial mopeds, but with a central shock absorber from a motorcycle.

If you are not going to completely copy our moped, I can recommend a completely universal method for designing and manufacturing two-wheeled machines.

To begin, cut out from thick cardboard the silhouettes of all available purchased components and assemblies - the engine with clearly marked mounting units, the front fork, the fuel tank, exhaust pipe and muffler, rear pendulum fork, shock absorber, rear wheel. Now lay out the silhouettes on a large sheet of paper or plywood and find for them the only possible position that your design instinct, design taste and common sense will tell you. Don’t forget that the driver is also included as a “component element” in the “person-vehicle” system. That is, it makes sense to cut out an articulated silhouette model from thick cardboard in accordance with your anthropometric dimensions - it will help avoid mistakes when configuring the car .

So, the silhouettes took their place on the plaza sheet. Secure them to it (say, with a couple of small nails) and outline them with a colored pencil. Now you can draw a frame that will unite all the units into a whole. It will be based on two pipes - a spinal (longitudinal) and a vertical one. The first is where the steering column, upper engine mounting assembly and seat box are mounted. On the second is the rear engine mounting assembly and the axis of the pendulum fork. To create a frame with an optimal configuration that combines all these elements means making it as simple as possible, with minimum sizes and accordingly mass. But at the same time as durable and rigid as possible.

Having determined the configuration and location of the frame elements using the selection method, draw it on a plaza drawing (take a pencil of a different color). Next, you should draw the mounting components for installing the engine, brackets for fixing the shock absorber, the position of the saddle cushion - and the life-size plasma drawing of the moped is basically ready.

Let's move on to the second stage - making the moped frame, and then assembling the car. First, the pipes - spinal and vertical - are adjusted directly according to the drawing. Then they are tacked together with several welding “spots”. Also adjust the reinforcing gussets, engine mounting units, steering column, pendulum fork mounting unit. Having carefully checked the conformity of the frame to the plaza drawing, as well as its symmetry relative to the longitudinal plane, weld all joints sequentially with step-by-step control of the frame's fidelity to the drawing. This will then avoid distortions of the entire structure.

The seams of the welded frame are cleaned with a file, the pipes are sanded, after which the metal is primed and painted in two or three layers with air-drying alkyd auto-enamel.

The front steerable ski of a winter moped is made of wood. Of course, the best one will come from a piece of mountain debris, but you can glue it together from several layers of plywood, and then edge the sole with a thin steel sheet.
The snow chain is assembled from links of a steel chain of suitable size. You can, of course, simply wrap the wheel with such a chain, but a more reliable option is a composite bandage similar to a car chain made from individual elements.

Please note that winter mopeds do not have footrests. The fact is that the driver has to help himself with his feet while driving to maintain balance, so it is best to put miniature plastic skis on them or, as a last resort, make “skis” from scraps of children’s skis. Their length is no more than 400 mm. I note that the brake on the moped is only on the rear wheel with manual drive.

To work in tandem with a moped, make two towed devices— “snow plow” and cargo sleds. The first is for clearing paths. It consists of two boards with a cross section of 30X300 mm and a length of about a meter connected in the shape of the letter A, with a jumper approximately in the middle of this letter A. Of course, such a “plow” can only remove freshly fallen snow. The cargo sled is an ordinary plywood box mounted through spacer bars on two children's skis.

Of course, carry out all work on cleaning and transporting snow in first gear. If the engine starts to “sneeze”, you will have to install a larger diameter sprocket on the rear wheel. That's all.

Yes, when switching to the summer version of the moped, standard footrests and, preferably, a foot brake are installed on it.

The numbers in the figure show:

1 — rear pendulum ailka, 2 — seat cushion, 3 — fuel tank(from a plastic canister suitable in volume and dimensions), 4 - reinforcing gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 5 - seat base (box made of sheet duralumin), 6 - frame spinal tube (steel pipe with a diameter of 36 2.5 mm ), 7 — steering wheel (from Monica “Karpaty”), 8 — strengthening gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 9 — front vipka (from mopeds like “Riga”, “Karpaty” or “Verkhovyna”), 10 - rubber guy-shock absorber, 11 - bracket (pipes - 22X2 mm in diameter, supports - 2.5 mm thick frame, gusset - 3.5 mm thick steel). 12 - wad (glued from plywood blanks, the sole is a steel sheet 0.8 mm thick), 13 - engine (type V-50 or Ш 58 - Ш-62), 14 - vertical frame pipe (steel pipe with a diameter of 36X2.5 mm ), 15 — rear engine mounting bracket (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 16 — shock absorber (from motorcycles like “Minsk” or “Voskhod”), 17 — snow chain, 18 — rear wheel.

3. SLAVETS, engineer

Today, trade can offer a large number of different models of scooters from domestic and foreign manufacturers. A person who wants to buy a vehicle has a huge choice. However, even with such an abundance of options, not everyone finds what they like. Some people are not satisfied with the dimensions and weight of the car. He is looking for a more compact device that can be placed, say, in the trunk of a car. Some people think the design of modern “iron horses” is not attractive enough. He wants to show his own and collect his own. Such people are interested in how to make homemade moped. Here are some useful tips.

What you might need

In order to make a homemade moped, first of all you need to decide on the parts that will be used during assembly. In most cases, the basis of the design is an unnecessary bicycle. You immediately need to think about where all the details will be placed. The most cumbersome of them is the engine. It is usually located in the rear trunk or at the bottom of the frame. If the frame has such a structure that placing the engine will create inconvenience when moving the moped, then it can be made separately. This will require welding work. The frame should be made from bicycle parts that are specially designed for the appropriate load. If necessary, you can change the geometry of the desired part. For this, a stop is used and the use of water pipes is strictly prohibited, since they do not have sufficient strength. Such a homemade moped will not go far. Engine mounts can be cut from sheets of iron with a thickness of at least 5 mm and welded to the frame.

Moped engine

Here craftsmen usually go different ways. Some use engines from agricultural machinery. For example, mechanisms from walk-behind tractors or chainsaws. Others assemble a homemade moped using special bicycle engines. For example, the Chinese “D” series motor, or simply “cheap”, is popular among technicians. What to use - everyone decides for himself. Perhaps you have an old saw lying around in the closet and need to put it somewhere. We need to put it in a homemade moped. However best advice A standard bicycle motor will be used here. This gives more guarantees of its reliability. The engine should be installed on prepared mounts. If it uses a chain drive, then using a standard bicycle sprocket to transmit torque is acceptable.

Brake system