Here is the machine node

The node that enters the UAZ steering knuckle of the front axle is the ball kingpin. It takes on all the burden that falls on front axle during movement. These loads are especially great when driving off-road and rough terrain.

During the operation of the car, this pivot assembly wears out quickly, which leads to the appearance of gaps and play in the front suspension.

Steering knuckle repair is necessary in the following cases.

1. Replacement of liners or stuffing box assembly.
2. Wear of the ball pin.
3. Rounded fist deformed and requires replacement of the ball joint.

Often, breakdowns of the steering knuckle are caused by poor-quality selection of components installed during its assembly, namely, a mismatch:

• diameter of the support and the inserted hemisphere;
• thickness and seat gland;
• insert thicknesses.

Features of prevention and repair

Repair of the UAZ steering knuckle can be carried out both independently and by contacting a car repair shop. Price repair work will depend primarily on the price of the parts to be replaced.

The fist dries up

With some experience and required set tools, having studied the instructions on how to disassemble and repair the steering knuckle, it is enough to buy the required spare parts and independently carry out all repair activities. This will not only save money, but also gain new knowledge about the design of the car.

We must not forget about regular preventive measures, consisting in inspecting and assessing the condition of the clamping bushings of the steering knuckle, as well as identifying the presence of play in the front suspension.

Before you start repairing the steering knuckle, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of its implementation.

1. If Nyloc type nuts are installed, they will definitely need to be replaced, as they have a special coating that prevents them from unscrewing and loosening the clamp. After screwing the nuts, this coating is destroyed.
2. Do not put the car on wheels if at least one drive shaft is disconnected from the hub, as this can lead to deformation or destruction of the hub bearing. If it is necessary to move the machine a short distance, the shaft must be returned to the hub and fixed with a nut.
3. Depending on the model of the car and the year of its release, the UAZ fist has two modifications, in one of which the hubs are solid, and in the other they are hollow, which is determined by the presence of a hole.

Before proceeding with the repair, the following manipulations are carried out.

1. The car is put on the handbrake.
2. Stops are placed under the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving.
3. The front of the car is lifted with a jack or winch and fixed on the stops.

Only after making sure that the front part of the machine is securely fastened and that it cannot move or break off the stops, you can proceed to remove the wheel.

The process of dismantling the wheel and brakes

To remove the wheel, you must perform the operations in this sequence.

1. The cap is removed from the wheel hub, the R-shaped bracket is removed, the lock head is dismantled. On the drive shaft loosen the nut that connects it to the hub. After that I shoot front wheel.
2. If the vehicle model is equipped ABS system, there is a sensor on the wheel that needs to be removed.
3. The nut securing the drive shaft to the front suspension hub is twisted.
4. The brake caliper is attached to the steering knuckle with two bolts, which must be unscrewed and disconnected from the brake disc, after which it is tied to the spring on the front suspension.
5. Before proceeding with the removal of the brake disc, it is necessary to note its location relative to the suspension hub. The line can be applied with chalk, but it is better to use white paint so that the line is not erased during the repair work. Only then unscrew the fastening screw and remove the brake disc.

Knuckle Lubrication

To facilitate the process of dismantling from the steering knuckle strut, it is necessary to use a special tool with which the suspension springs are compressed and fixed. For this, cables are used, for example, as on fixture 0903 AF. The procedure for compressing and fixing the springs is as follows:

• at the top of the rack there are two holes, one of which is inserted into the cable;
• then the steering column is rotated and a second cable is inserted into the second hole;
• the free ends of the cables cling to the lower edge of the cup;
• the upper ends inserted into the rack are fixed by screwing 6 mm diameter bolts into the holes.

Among all suspension parts, the VAZ 2107 knuckle is distinguished by its strength and durability. However, in the process of repairing the front suspension, sometimes you have to remove it and put it in place, or change it to a new one. You can do it yourself, for this you need a minimum of tools and fixtures. And be sure to use WD-40, since the threaded connections of the steering knuckle are usually in a very deplorable state.

Functions of the steering knuckle VAZ 2107

The steering knuckle holds the front wheel hubs and is fixed on the upper and lower arms of the front suspension on ball bearings. When the steering wheel is turned, the gear lever pulls the steering knuckle in one direction or another through the steering rods, turning the front wheels and changing the course of the car.
The part is made of durable cast iron and is able to withstand heavy loads. Often, car owners change the VAZ 2107 swing arm assembly, along with the hub and wheel bearing. The “life” of a swing arm under normal conditions (in the absence of an accident) is much longer than that of a hub bearing. Therefore, it is better to immediately change them in the assembly and forget about this unit for a long time.

Symptoms of a malfunction of the rotary lever VAZ 2107

The most common swivel arm failure is deformation. It can be caused by a strong blow to the suspension when driving over bumps in the road or by physical impact as a result of an accident. You can notice a malfunction by three main signs:

• car withdrawal from the trajectory while driving (“seven” is pulled to the left or right on a flat road);
• rapid wear of rubber on the front wheels;
• wheel bearing play due to axle wear.

The first two signs can be an indicator of the discrepancy between the alignment angles and the normative ones. Therefore, in order to make sure that the steering knuckle is malfunctioning, it is necessary to diagnose the front suspension. Sometimes the reason lies in the incorrect adjustment of the wheel alignment angles or the wear of the steering rods or silent blocks. Otherwise, it is necessary to replace the steering knuckle with a VAZ 2107.

What you need to replace the steering knuckle VAZ 2107

Before changing the steering knuckle to a VAZ 2107, you need to stock up on such tools and fluids:

To replace the steering knuckle you will need:

• set of wrenches;
• jack;
• balloon key;
• recoil shoes;
• puller for ball bearings and steering rods;
• liquid WD-40.

After replacing the steering knuckle, you will have to bleed the brake system. Therefore, more will be needed brake fluid and capacity for it, as well as a flexible hose.

How to change the steering knuckle VAZ 2107

To replace the lever with a new one, you need to know how to remove the steering knuckle on the VAZ 2107. This is done as follows:

• place wheel chocks under the rear wheels;
• raise the parking brake lever;
• loosen the front wheel mounting bolts;
• raise the front wheel with a jack;
• treat threaded connections with WD-40;
• unscrew the nut of the steering tip;
• using a puller, undock the steering tip from the fist;
• unscrew the bolt securing the brake hose;
• disconnect brake hose;
• place a stop under the lower lever;
• lower the car on the jack so that the lever rests on the stop and the suspension spring compresses a little;
• unscrew the nuts securing the lower and upper ball joints;
• take off ball joints using a puller;
• remove the steering knuckle.

When the VAZ 2107 steering knuckle assembly is removed, it is necessary to check the condition of the brake caliper and wheel bearing and the hub itself. If they are ok. then you can rearrange the parts on a new lever. Otherwise, you need to replace them with new ones.
Installation of the steering knuckle VAZ 2107 is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Attention: after the lever is installed, it is necessary to bleed the brake system to get rid of the air that inevitably gets into front brake contour.

Without the steering knuckle, which is a part of the wheel suspension, driving a conventional car would be impossible. It is thanks to him that the car wheel is rotated in different directions. As a rule, such a relatively small but very important part is subject to the action of almost all the forces that are associated with the longitudinal and lateral braking of the car, so the steering knuckle is at a high risk of breakdowns or wear after years. In this article, we will tell you what the steering knuckle itself is, and we will also describe in detail how to correctly replace it in the event of a malfunction.

1. What is a steering knuckle

As we mentioned above, due to the rotation of the steering knuckle, wheel control is provided in standard cars. The steering knuckle is an indispensable part of the wheel suspension. Also on the steering knuckle, as a rule, the wheel hub bearing block is mounted, which serves as the wheel bearing. road transport. The steering knuckle is usually mounted towards the center of the vehicle on the chassis, directly on the subframe, and is attached by wheel suspension guide links (so-called control arms). independent suspension wheels).

Often, thanks to the upper and lower arms of the independent wheel suspension, which directly affect the steering knuckle, peculiar centers of gravity are set for the latter. Moreover, the line that connects both centers of gravity forms a pivot for turning the knuckle, which, as a rule, runs in space at an angle.

In order for the fist to turn and, accordingly, the steered wheel is rotated, the steering knuckle lever (the so-called steering linkage lever) is also used. It properly acts on the steering knuckle, and also forces are transmitted to it that affect the wheels when turning the car, for example, through the steering linkage. The steering knuckle, due to its swivel function in relation to the wheel that is installed on it, was also popularly "christened" the swivel wheel support.

As we mentioned above, together with the transfer of turn to the installed wheel, the steering knuckle takes over all the forces that act directly on the wheel, since not only the weight of the car acts on it, but also almost all the forces that are associated with longitudinal and lateral braking car. Based on this, the steering knuckle must be made of durable, wear-resistant material.

It is important to know that while the car is moving in a straight line, the direction of movement of the wheels must always be in perfect parallel with the longitudinal axis of the car; but such an ideal correspondence is not always the case, since, for example, the result of elastic deformation in the parts of the wheel suspension is the convergence of the front wheels during acceleration, when front wheel drive, inside. During perfect movement along a curved line, it can also be said that, with neutral dynamic properties, the wheels are turned so that the ideal toe-in angle can be established.

At a given radius of curvature and at certain speeds, this perfect position of the wheels in the rim should provide a wheel side slip force that is in the correct ratio to the corresponding normal force that is acting on each individual wheel. In terms of axle position, this means that the side slip forces must be actuated with an axle load. If the correspondence is violated, the dynamic properties take on the character of oversteer or understeer.

2. How to replace the steering knuckle correctly

As we have already said, the steering knuckle is put into operation in order to take on and withstand the forces emanating from the impacts of the wheels on the uneven roadway, as well as to create a steering angle for the wheels, with the help of which the car itself is steered. As a rule, the material from which the steering knuckle is made is high-strength alloy steel 30X or 40X, and during the manufacturing process itself, high accuracy of geometric dimensions must be observed to install parts that are mated.

During operation of the vehicle, the surface of the trunnion is subject to wear. Often this leads to increased front wheel play. According to experts, this defect of the steering knuckle at the moment of movement can cause difficulty in driving vehicle. Under the influence of loads that exceed the allowable and cause a change in the stiffness indicators, as well as due to the fatigue of the upper layers of the metal and the action of friction forces, various defects of the steering knuckle can also “emerge”.

Such defects include wear of mounting holes, cracks different sizes, thread damage and others. If you suddenly find at least one of these defects, be sure that the steering knuckle must be urgently replaced with a new one.

In order to quickly and efficiently replace the steering knuckle, do not be lazy and read the instructions below. So, let's get to work. First you need to collect together all the auxiliary tools that you will need during the replacement process. So, you will need: a special tool for assembling / disassembling the hub, a ball joint puller, a special key, as well as a support and a drift. After you have collected all the tools, you can proceed to the very process of replacing the steering knuckle.

To begin with, we raise the front of the car and install the safety supports in the appropriate places. After that, remove the wheel nuts, and behind them the front wheel. Then we take up the unscrewing of the fixing bolts of the brake hose.

After that, we take up the removal of the caliper. To do this, unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and remove the latter from the rear wheel bearing support. In order not to cause any damage to the caliper and brake hose, experts advise fixing the caliper to the car body with a piece of wire. Also make sure that the brake hose is not too kinked.

Next, we are engaged in removing the wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle. It is not necessary to disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector. After that, lift the locking pin and remove the hub nut.

Then we unscrew the 6 mm brake disc mounting bolts, and then remove from the front hub. If you find that the brake disc is pressed into the front hub, you will need to screw two 8 x 1.25mm bolts into the brake disc to remove it from the hub. At the time of this operation, it is important to ensure that each bolt rotates 90 degrees in turn. All this is done to prevent disc warping. Also do not forget to check the front hub - it should not have any damage or cracks.

After that, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint at the end of the tie rod, and then remove the nut. Please note that when assembling, you need to tighten the nut, then install a new cotter pin and bend its ends.

Next, using a special tool, disconnect the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle. Then we unscrew the flange bolt and flange nut on the lower link. As a general rule, a new flange bolt and new flange nuts should be installed at the time of installation. Lightly tighten all three fasteners, then, starting with the flange nuts, tighten them to the specified torque.

So, you can breathe a sigh of confidence: most of the work has already been done. Now you need to gather all your strength and bring the work you have begun to a victorious end. To do this, disconnect the lower hinge housing from the lower link and remove the shock absorber fork bolts and self-locking nuts from. At the time of installation, it is necessary to install new shock absorber mounting bolts and new self-locking nuts.

By hitting the end of the drive shaft with a plastic mallet and at the same time pulling the hub outward, remove the drive shaft outer joint from the steering knuckle. After that, we can remove the steering knuckle. According to experts, it is strictly forbidden to pull the drive shaft out. This may cause disassembly of the driveshaft inner joint.

After that, we take up the removal of the locking pin from the body of the lower hinge, and then remove the nut. During installation, it is important to tighten the new castle nut, then install the new lock pin.

Next - it's up to the small. We disconnect the body of the lower hinge from the steering knuckle using a special tool. That's all! This way you can remove the steering knuckle from the car. We install the steering knuckle in the reverse order of removal, but you must also take into account some of the rules outlined below ...

So, the first thing to focus on is that at the time of installing the steering knuckle, care must be taken not to damage the protective cover of the ball joint. Secondly, it is very important to tighten all threaded connections to the recommended torque.

Before attempting to attach the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle, it is necessary to remove grease residues directly from the threads and the seating surface of the ball joint pin, as well as from the bore surface of the steering knuckle itself and from the contact surface of the castellated nuts.

Also, you should first assemble all the parts included in the composition and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts. Then we raise the suspension so that it bears the entire weight of the car, after which we finally tighten them to the recommended torque.

It is also necessary to ensure that the castle nut is tightened to the lower limit of the tightening torque, and then it is required to tighten it only until the slot coincides with the hole in the ball pin. Do not wait for the slot to match the hole by loosening the nut.

When reassembling, experts advise using a new hub nut. Before installing the hub, you should lubricate the mating surface of the hub nut with a small amount. After tightening, we crimp the deformable edges of the nut at the end of the drive shaft.

Before proceeding with the installation of the brake disc, it is necessary to clean the seating surfaces of the disc hub. Before putting the wheel in its place, it is also necessary to clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inner surface of the hole in the wheel disc. Finally, check the wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.

We remove the steering knuckle when replacing the hub bearing, repairing the front suspension strut.

Withdrawal

In order not to damage the front wheel hub bearing, do not:

- loosen and tighten the nut of the front wheel hub on the car standing on wheels;

- lower the car on the wheels with the front wheel drive shaft removed or with the front wheel hub fastening nut loosened.

Place the car on a lift.

Unlock steering wheel.

Remove front wheel.

Remove the front wheel speed sensor;

Disconnect the front brake assembly from the steering knuckle and hang it from the front suspension spring.

Install a stop on the front wheel hub and fix it with two wheel bolts (stop Rou. 604-01, interchangeable head 17, knob).

Unscrew nut 10, picture 1, fastening the front wheel hub, remove the nut, remove the stop (replaceable head 32, interchangeable head 17, knob).

Remove the front brake disc;

Remove the front brake disc cover.

Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle arm.

Unscrew the nut 7 of the bolt securing the ball joint of the front suspension arm to the steering knuckle and disconnect the knuckle 3 from the lever 9 (ring key 16, interchangeable head 16, extension and knob).

Remove the spacer washer from the front suspension arm ball joint.

Unscrew two nuts 2 of the bolts securing the steering knuckle to the front suspension strut and remove the bots (wrench 18, interchangeable head 18, knob).

Press the drive shaft out of the front wheel hub and remove the steering knuckle with hub assembly.

Installation

Attention. The fasteners listed below must be replaced:

Nut of fastening of a nave of a forward wheel;

Nut of a bolt of fastening of a spherical support of the lever of a forward suspension bracket;

Nuts of bolts of fastening of a rotary knuckle to a rack of a forward suspension bracket.

Attention. Install the ball joint bolt of the lower front suspension arm to the steering knuckle with the head towards the front of the vehicle.

Install the front wheel drive shaft spline to the front wheel hub.

Install the steering knuckle on the front suspension strut, insert the mounting bolts and tighten, without tightening, new nuts 2 (wrench 18, interchangeable head 18, ratchet wrench).

Install on the pin of the ball joint 4, figure 2, front suspension arm spacer 3.

Install the ball joint pin of the front suspension arm into the steering knuckle, install the mounting bolt and tighten the new nut.

When assembling, the shoulder 2 of the spacer 3 must fall into the slot 1 of the terminal connection on the steering knuckle. The tightening torque of the nut is 62 Nm (6.2 kgf.m) (wrench 16, interchangeable head 16, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

Tighten the nuts of the bolts securing the steering knuckle to the front suspension strut. Tightening torque of nuts 105 Nm (10.5 kgf.m) (wrench 18, interchangeable head 18, torque wrench)

Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle arm.

Install the front brake disc cover;

Install the front brake disc.

Install the stop on the front wheel hub and secure it with two wheel bolts.

Install a new front wheel hub nut and remove the stop. Nut tightening torque 280 Nm (28.0 kgf.m) (replaceable head 17, interchangeable head 32, knob, torque wrench).

Install the front wheel speed sensor;

Install the front brake assembly.

Install the front wheel. Press the brake pedal 2 - 3 times to install the wheel pistons brake cylinders to working position.

Check and, if necessary, adjust the alignment of the front wheels.

In general, it can be noted that this part is one of the most important in the suspension system of any car. The steering knuckle is attached to the suspension with the help of “ball joints”, which makes it possible for the wheels to turn. Do not think that this is a separate part, no, it is also attached to it brake system, and finally the rack().

One of the main purposes of this part is the ability to withstand loads and create conditions for turning the wheel. All the blows that fall on the wheels, it must withstand.

The steering knuckles are blue and on the right.

They are often made from durable alloy steel or cast iron, depending on models and manufacturers. The brand of metal, as a rule, is chosen 30-40X. Remember that during production it is important to maintain accurate geometric indicators, otherwise, the part will simply be unusable. Also, even at the time of production, special grooves (cuts) are made in the "fist" for the hubs.

Do not forget that during operation, not only the mechanism itself is subject to negative influence due to the effects of the suspension in general, but also the trunnion. The trunnion, depending on where it is located, is called differently. In general, you should know that this is some part of the shaft on which the hub bearing is located. So, when it wears out, the end of the bearing comes, and the steering knuckle begins to experience overloads, excessive friction occurs, cracks appear and the like. Pay close attention to this, because management can be seriously complicated.

How the steering knuckle is attached is understandable, they use the upper and lower levers for this, through.

Device and varieties

It should be remembered that, despite the standard knuckle, the so-called “straight cross”, the sizes are different for everyone. Therefore, choosing a detail, Special attention sellers pay exactly to the model of your car. In some cases, even the year of manufacture will be important. After all, a deviation of a few centimeters will not allow the suspension to cope with the task. For example, "they won't become" spherical, there will not be enough "angle" for traction, and the like.

Moreover, different modification"fists" may not fit even on the same car. For example, before restyling, a wheel rotation sensor was not installed on the car, but after restyling, such an element appeared, and a separate “ear” was made for it. As a result, the former "knuckles" are not suitable for modern modifications, despite the generally the same size and format of the part.

Resource

It is difficult to reliably say how much it "runs", even in bad roads, everything is quite individual. Depends on the driving style, the quality of the original alloy and the like. In principle, car manufacturers consider this unit to be “long-term”, that is, one that can last a longer amount of time than other suspension components.

Often, the service life is measured in tens of thousands of kilometers, someone manages to save the node and up to 200,000 km.

Faults and possible symptoms

Pay attention if the following symptoms and malfunctions begin to appear:

The car began to "pull" on different sides, the problem is not solved even after checking the collapse.

We noticed that the wheels began to turn out at a smaller angle, most likely it was the "fist", well, or the ball joint that was to blame.

TO frequent malfunctions can be attributed, the "separation" of the wheel. This happens due to a broken thread on the axis of the assembly or a break in the “finger” of the ball, which is also not uncommon.

Not infrequently, wear occurs on the surfaces of the axles, in those places where the bearings are “laid”. The reason lies in the incorrect location of the bearing or the loose wheel nuts. If the wheel is not tightened, an uneven impact will be transmitted to the axle, which after a while will lead to a misalignment of the bearings and, accordingly, it will begin to wear out, play will appear.

There are situations when the assembly is basically intact, the axis surfaces are without violations, but a small crack has been revealed. Someone will advise you to brew it, but, according to safety rules, such methods are prohibited. Do not forget that in most cases, parts are made of cast iron, and when it is exposed to welding, its density is violated. As a result, it can simply burst when moving.

How to remove the steering knuckle?

Initially, it might seem that the design is quite complicated, but in fact, the dismantling of such an element is nothing complicated. What is required of you:

1. First, remove the wheel.

2. Unscrew the brake calipers.

3. Unscrew the shock absorber.

4. Remove the steering tip (it is better to do this with a special puller).

5. Remove the axle shaft from the splines of the hub.

Do not forget to release the wheel rotation sensor, of course, if your car has one, it is attached directly to the “fist”.

7. As a result, there was a hub, a brake disc and a fist itself. Now we unscrew the lock nut of the hub, after opening the splines. We take out the bearing, screw the wheel bolts into the special holes and tighten them until they stop. After that, with small blows, we knock out the hub and release the “fist”.

To install the part back, do the reverse steps.