I was choosing between the Mitsubishi Lancer and the Chrysler Stratus. I liked the second one better, but was excluded for some reasons. I thought: the car is good, comfortable, but American cars problems with spare parts and service. It is better to take a reliable and proven option, namely Mitsubishi Lancer 9th generation.

All necessary documents for purchase were issued in one day. And here he is, my handsome car - a 2004 car with a 1.6-liter engine, automatic transmission and air conditioning.

The first serious test for the newly purchased car lay ahead - passing technical inspection. On the day of the inspection, I purchased the missing set of mandatory equipment - a car fire extinguisher, a first aid kit and an emergency installation sign. During the inspection, no flaws were identified, which means the car was in perfect condition. technical condition, although he was 5 years old. The only thing the technician advised during the inspection was to change the rear silent block (what is a silent block).

After a month from the start of the purchase, there were no problems, the car was a joy. The only annoying moment was when I came to the garage in the morning and the car refused to start. It didn’t take long to find the reason; it was a dead battery. It turns out that I forgot to turn off the interior light bulb, which drained the battery. Well, the knowledge of how to light a cigarette from a battery came in handy and returning the car to working condition was not difficult. Car enthusiasts at the garage complex helped with this problem by providing “crocodiles” for charging the battery.

The incident with the dead battery was a good lesson. Now, when leaving the car, I carefully inspect the electrical equipment to see if it is “off”.

A few months later, the Mitsubishi Lancer faced a serious test - a trip to another city to visit relatives 1000 kilometers away. Let's see what the car is capable of. On the highway you can easily go “over a hundred” without any strain. The only thing I don't like is the low engine power when overtaking trucks. It has to do with choice automatic transmission transmission With mechanics, as experienced ones say, the car has decent dynamics. So, if you often travel outside the city, it is better to choose cars with manual transmission gears, and if you rarely go out of town, then optimal choice- with a machine gun.

Somehow we got a little distracted from the point. When arriving in a foreign city, I got a little lost. In those minutes I thought, oh, it would be good if I bought a car GPS navigator (how to choose a car navigator). I’ll have to buy it with my first salary, because this is a useful thing for a car enthusiast, as I myself have seen from my own experience.

Approximately 10,000 kilometers have passed since the purchase of the car. The most serious malfunction that happened was refueling with low-quality fuel. After the next refueling, the light on the instrument panel came on. As I later found out, it caught fire as a result of the car getting into the tank. quality gasoline. I managed to turn off the light bulb with my own hands. To do this, fill in 10 liters of high-quality gasoline and remove the terminal from the battery. The information in the program will be erased and the light will go out.

Apart from this light bulb, nothing bad happened to the Mitsubishi Lancer. It’s not for nothing that the ninth generation Lancers are popular among car enthusiasts. This reliable car for your money.

Intelligent door closer module

for Mitsubishi Lancer 9th generation.

Description

What he can do:

On a signal from the alarm system, he raises all the windows. The window lifting starts sequentially, with an interval of 0.5 seconds. If the ESP passenger remote control lock button is pressed, the windows will not roll up. You can configure the module to ignore the block button.

When you hold the driver's window button in the auto-up position for more than one second, the module will start raising all windows. This feature can be disabled.

For pre-restyling Lancers, you can activate the function of automatically closing/opening passenger windows from the driver's ESP control panel. This function works in one of two ways - if you briefly (less than 0.5 seconds) press the glass closing (opening) button, the glass will be closed (opened) completely. In the second option, to start automatic closing (opening) of the glass, you must hold the button pressed for more than one second.

! The module only works with Mitsubishi Lancer 9th generation! The 10th has a different system.

It is possible that the module will work with other MMC vehicles of approximately the same production years (2003-2008), with an ESP control system similar to the 9th generation Lancer. But this needs experimental confirmation.

Installation and connection

To install the module, you need an additional automotive relay (30-40A) with normally open or changeover contacts, and 1.5-2 meters of two-wire wire to connect to the driver's window up button.

It is also advisable to place a connector near the driver's ESP ECU on the wires going to the driver's window button. So that you can, if necessary, remove the driver's ESP ECU.

Most of the connections are made at the connector block located behind the plastic shield below the hood release lever. So it’s logical to install the module above and to the right of the mentioned connector block (closer to the engine). There is a relatively flat section of the car body to which you can stick, for example, with double-sided tape.

Hidden here required block connectors: And here the excess plastic is removed:

The connection is made to wires from two connectors. Both are circled in blue in the photo. Upper - S-29, lower - S-21

One of the power supplies is taken from the bottom connector, everything else is connected to the top connector, except for the wires going to the ESP button and to the alarm.

Diagram (pinout) of the module connector:

Module connection diagram:

Module connection:

The green wire, together with the common wire of the external relay (pin 30) and the coil wire of the external relay (pin 86), are connected to the thick green wire - connector C-21 pin 2.

The yellow wire, together with the normally open wire of the external relay (pin 87), is connected to the thick yellow wire - connector C-29 pin 10

The green-yellow wire is connected to the second wire of the external relay coil (pin 85)

The black wire is connected to the black ground wire - connector C-29 pin 3

Purple wire:

If the pre-restyling car does not connect anywhere. The standard purple wire of the driver's door wiring harness coming to connector C-29, pin 8, must be cut and the ends insulated.

If the car is restyled (ESPs operate for 30 seconds after the ignition is turned off) and there is a need to use the standard low beam auto-extinguishing function, then it is necessary to install another additional relay - a signal relay, for example TRB-12VDC-SB3-CD, with a protective diode in accordance with the diagram above.

If the car is restyled (ESPs operate for 30 seconds after the ignition is turned off) and there is no need to use the standard low beam auto-extinguishing function, then the purple wire of the module is connected to the purple wire of the SWS control line - connector C-29, pin 8.

The control line wire of the ESP ECU (connector C-29 pin 7, green with red) is cut and an orange wire is connected to the segment going to the driver's door, and a red wire to the other.

An additional wire is connected to the gray wires, which is laid in the driver's door parallel to the standard harness and soldered to the contacts of the driver's window up button.

The photo shows where the wires should be soldered to the ESP ECU.

Driver's window button contacts marked "MU" and "AU"

The wires can be removed from the ESP ECU through one of the existing windows in the unit housing:

It is at the place of the twist, which is visible in this photo, that it is advisable to install a connector.

To ensure that the wires are not pinched by the body's stiffening ribs, they (the ribs) must be slightly trimmed at the edge with a sharp knife.

Settings

The module must be configured with the ignition on

Before entering setup mode, all passenger windows must be completely closed.

Entering module setup mode

Within five seconds, you need to press the passenger ESP lock button, press, press, release and press again.

The module will confirm the activation of the mode by lowering the passenger windows approximately halfway.

Exiting module setup mode

To exit the setup mode, you need to press the passenger ESP lock button.

Also, the module will exit the setup mode itself if no buttons are pressed for 25 seconds.

Upon exiting the setup mode, the module will fully raise all windows.

Programming the window prohibition mode from an external signal

Pressing the right front window up button turns on the window prohibition mode from an external signal when the passenger ESP lock button is pressed. The module confirms that the mode is turned on by lifting the right front window.

Pressing the right front window lowering button disables the window prohibition mode from an external signal when the passenger ESP lock button is pressed. The module confirms that the mode is turned off by lowering the right front window.

Programming the mode of raising all windows from one button

Pressing the right up button rear window turns on the mode of raising all windows when you hold the driver's window button in the auto-up position for more than 1 second. The module confirms that the mode is turned on by lifting the right rear window.

Pressing the right rear window down button turns off the one-button all-window up mode. The module confirms that the mode is turned off by lowering the right rear window.

Programming the automatic up/down mode for passenger windows

(relevant for pre-restyling 9th Lancer)

A short press of the left rear window up button (less than 1 sec) turns on the automatic up/down mode of the windows by a short (less than 0.5 sec) press of the button. The module confirms that the mode is turned on by lifting the left rear window.

A long press of the left rear window up button (more than 1 sec) turns on the automatic up/down mode of the windows by long (more than 1 sec) pressing the button. The module confirms the activation of the mode by sequentially raising and lowering the left rear window.

Pressing the left rear window down button disables the forced auto-up/down mode. The module confirms that the mode is turned off by lowering the left rear window.

Programming the trigger pulse tracking mode

Pressing the driver's window auto-up button switches the trigger pulse tracking mode. The module confirms the mode switching by raising or lowering all passenger windows.

If the module has lowered all passenger windows, then the operating time of the module is limited by the duration of the alarm trigger pulse (blue wire). If the negative potential at the input disappears, the module will stop raising the windows and turn off.

If the module has raised all passenger windows, then the module's operating time is about 25 seconds, regardless of the duration of the trigger pulse. The module, in this mode, requires the duration of the trigger pulse at least one second.

Questions and answers.

Q. Is locking automatic when arming?

A. The closing of the windows is triggered by an alarm. It should ensure, when arming, that a ground appears on the blue wire. As far as I understand, the vast majority of alarms have an “additional channel” that allows you to issue an impulse when arming.

Additionally, the module monitors the state of the passenger ESP lock button and, if it is pressed, does not raise the windows (this function is configurable).

Q. Are the gray wires connected to the driver's button only for the one-button all-windows up feature? To implement automatic raising of the windows only when arming, do they need to be connected or not?

A. The module can control the driver's window only by emulating a button press. Therefore, whenever work is done on the driver's window, it is done through the gray wires.

In order for the driver's window to close when arming, the gray wires must be connected.

Another question is that you can not use the module for full blast and use only the function of automatically closing/opening passenger windows from the driver’s ESP control panel in the pre-restyling Lancer. Then you can get by with connecting just four wires - yellow, black, orange and red.

Q. Is the control done via the bus?

A. Yes, control occurs via a digital bus. But, unfortunately, only passenger windows. With the driver's license you have to emulate pressing a button.

Q. Why bother with this if it has been on sale for a long time!?

A. 1. Universal modules It’s difficult to make friends with Lancer’s safety window lifting system.

2. This module allows you to implement additional functions that are not available in universal modules.

Q. Maybe I overlooked it or didn’t understand, but what about the function if, for example, you leave your hand there and it gets pinched, then the glass will go down? Or will it be very painful?

A. All injury protection remains in place. The glass is lifted by the original units in normal mode. The module only gives commands to them.

Q. What alarms will the module work with?

A. With any device that is capable of producing, when arming, a negative pulse lasting at least 1 second

20.04.2014

Let's fix it now! - the electrician said confidently, took a soldering iron and began to do something under the hood of the car. Then he straightened up and said with satisfaction: “Well, now everything will work,” and turned the ignition key.
First they lit up fog lights. Behind them the low beam headlights turned on. Then the high beams flashed brightly. The windshield wiper blades waved casually. The turn signals flashed playfully. Then something clicked and everything went out at the same time. Curtain. Nothing else worked.

This is how the client saw from the outside the repair of his car in the car service center where he came for repairs with what seemed to him a simple problem: “the low-range headlights did not work, the headlights did not turn on, and other little things.” The photo shows this car “as is” from a previous car service.

Quick Look engine compartment caused surprise: “Why was it necessary to disassemble and solder something in Front ECU?».

No, the search direction (“in principle and in general”) was chosen correctly, but “soldering and soldering”? Meaning? I can only assume that during a previous inspection of the engine compartment, someone accidentally leaned on this block or something near it, then, by divine coincidence, something suddenly started working and the decision was made to look for a fault inside the Front ECU block. This is the only way I can explain the interference of a crude Russian soldering iron in elegant Japanese electronics.

Let's start dancing in Russian - "from the stove." They say that only a fool will trample down an uncharted road, but a smart one will first study it. What do we have on this car in connection with the reported malfunction?

According to the client: “the low and high beam headlights did not work, the headlights did not turn on, and other little things.” It's already hot. And we need to turn on our brains and remember that on this car a unit called Front ECU is responsible for this whole tangle.

What is it for and what does it control (traditionally and fundamentally):
low beam headlights
high beam headlights
· sidelights
Headlight washer and washer motor
wiper motor
I won’t list the rest of the coming and going “pros and cons” until they are the essence.

If you lift this block - Front ECU, and pull it out a little from its place, then you may be surprised at the small number of contacts available: “So many consumers - and so few wires.” Well, yes, you guessed it too - the SWS multiplex system is used here. If anyone is not aware of the issue, a few words.

We have “consumers”: low beam headlights and high beam, turn signals, sidelights, windshield wipers and other loads with a total number of... well, for example, 10 “consumers”. Now let’s estimate how many wires and relays need to be wired and connected to each consumer. How much is it? Roughly: “About twenty.” Many. How to reduce and simplify? And thus: “transmit several different signals over one bus (wire).” What are we winning? The most important thing is the reliability of data transmission. And this is safety. All other advantages of the multiplex data transmission system are secondary. Let me use educational materials from open access. Here's a short diagram:

And here is an extended diagram to have general concept(traditionally):

The SWS or LIN bus is a low-speed bus compared to CAN, which is quite justified: look at the end consumers and you will understand for yourself what is primary, what is secondary and why the low-speed SWS bus is responsible for managing only such consumers. IN Mitsubishi cars Tires of all three classes are used.
· Class-A – low speed (< 10 Кбит/с), для несложной диагностики, передачи general purpose
· Class-B – average speed (10-125 Kbps), for transmitting the main amount of non-critical and non-diagnostic data.
· Class-C – high performance (from 125 Kbps to 1 Mbps and more), for real-time safety-related systems, such as engine valve timing control, fuel supply, in addition to mission diagnostics.

But this is all theory. How to look for a fault? You can follow the recommended instructions and use the scanner.

Then look at the signal on the monitor:

After this, open the manuals, familiarize yourself with the diagram, the location of the harnesses and other necessary information - what signals come and go, where the Front ECU is located, how the harness is routed, and so on:

Is it possible to do this? Can. But why not ask the client about the immediate history of his car? Moreover, during the initial examination something was noticed.
- Was the car damaged?
- Well, yes, it was...
This is very good. This is a confirmation and an indication of the direction of the search: “First of all, look behind the wheel.” Just like that, “simple and stupid.” The top screen shows the location of the harnesses. Schematically. And now live:

Why did you immediately start looking for the fault in the fender liner? No, not because I'm a wizard. I'm just learning from my colleagues. I read the forums. Sometimes I call Dmitry Yuryevich (nickname mek), and go to bed long after 12 at night. And all this helps to be in good shape and “on the cutting edge.” Look at the photo, there is an amazing device on the floor called Fault Finder:

If someone has not purchased it yet, run to the store.
Set FF310 designed to detect and localize breaks and short circuits in vehicle electrical circuits. Included in the kit FF310 includes a miniature transmitter and receiver. The transmitter is connected to a faulty electrical circuit and generates a high-frequency signal. A receiver with a flexible probe is used to localize breaks or short circuits. This is achieved by moving the probe along the wiring harness. The receiver identifies the type of fault (break or short circuit), which is indicated by light and sound indicators.
The versatility of the design allows the device to be used on any car and motorcycle with an on-board voltage from 6 to 24 Volts. Without any restrictions, the device can also be used on future vehicles with voltage on-board network 42 Volts.
The kit is supplied in a convenient plastic case, which, in addition to the items mentioned, also includes a special piercing probe and a set of connectors for connecting the transmitter to sockets of various types of fuses.

And the video shows troubleshooting. If you listen closely, you can hear the operation of the device - how it signals an open circuit. Watch the video, everything is shown well and everything is clear:

Yes, the recent accident with damage to the left front fender played a role - the wire was broken. It took some time to restore it. Pay attention to the purple wire: someone has already tried to repair it, but apparently they did it somehow.

When I talk to clients - and I always do this, without fail, it’s like brushing your teeth in the morning, I am always interested and try to thoroughly find out the life history of the client’s car. And there is no “know-how” of mine in this, the administrator of the Legion forum said in his articles back in the 90s of the last century: “It’s stubborn to find out how and what this car lived on before it was repaired.” After all, this is a storehouse of information necessary for repairs! Only here you need to strictly weed out the unnecessary and cling to the little things - as in this case. Upon examination, I noticed abrasions and unevenness on the left front fender car. Scratch or blow? It turned out that there was a “minor accident.” And in this place, I know from my repair practice, an important electrical harness passes through. How is he? What is his condition? So there is no “magic” here, just attentiveness.
Well, then, after restoration, there is a mandatory check of the restored one: “is there contact?”

And then handing over your work to the client.
- Let's watch! - he said joyfully to the client and turned the ignition key.
Then the client looked at me, and I looked at him - nothing worked. And I was already sweating, honestly. It can't be! I double-checked everything again - no, miracles don’t happen! What is the reason then?
At such moments, the brain works like a powerful computer. I immediately remembered how this story began - how someone dug into the Front ECU. I looked around. The same Lancer stood nearby. Removing the same block from him was a matter of several minutes. I installed it. I check again:
- Well, now everything works!
And in order to demonstrate to the client that my work was done efficiently and I didn’t spoil or short-circuit anything, I return the same block to its original place: if I had screwed something up, the block could have failed.
- Works? Works. As you can see, the repair is completed, the reason has been found out, the only conclusion is: bring the same unit, we’ll install it and everything will work.
P.S. And so it turned out: after replacing the block, everything began to work normally.

Number of materials: 1

Description of Customization function values

This section provides an explanation of the possible values ​​of Customization Functions and describes their use from a practical point of view.

Number of materials: 9

Installation and activation of ASX systems

Some of the functions of the ETACS and MPI blocks can be changed using standard dealer equipment - MUT-III. However, most of the functions that define the car’s equipment (standard alarm system, auto-locking central lock when picking up speed, the presence of the ASC-ESP system, or cruise control) are conditionally unavailable for changes and only a few specialists, including us, can change them.

Today we offer 3 activation methods standard alarm and other hidden functions:

1. In Kyiv. Call and come to Victor in Poznyaki 096-500-41-45. In just one visit you can receive the full range of services.
2. In the regions. Save the coding option for your car with the dealer or auto electrician using MUT-III
3. On one's own. Save the coding option for your car with the dealer or auto electrician using MUT-III and then change the settings yourself using our web service

Number of materials: 1

Installation and activation of Lancer X systems

1. (ETACS Settings Explorer or how we do it).
2. (ETACS - Coding information & Copy) and send it to the address with a list of desired functions, and having received a corrected coding file in response, upload it back to the car. If there are 10-15 people in one city who want to activate, we will come to you! The list is being compiled in this forum thread.
3. ETACS Settings Explorer online.

Number of materials: 2

Installation and activation of Outlander III systems (2013 MY)

Some of the functions of the ETACS unit can be changed using standard dealer equipment - MUT-III. However, most of the functions that determine the car’s equipment (standard alarm system, automatic central locking when accelerating, the presence of an ASC-ESP system, or cruise control) are conditionally unavailable for changes and can only be changed by a few specialists, including us and offering 3 method of activating the standard alarm and other hidden functions:

1. In Kyiv. Call and come to Victor in Poznyaki 096-500-41-45. In one visit you can get the whole range of services (ETACS Settings Explorer or how we do it).
2. In the regions. Save the coding option for your car using MUT-III (ETACS - Coding information & Copy) from the dealer or auto electrician and send it to the address with a list of desired features, and having received a corrected coding file in response, upload it back to the car. If there are 10-15 people in one city who want to activate, we will come to you! The list is being compiled in this forum thread.
3. On one's own. You save the coding option for your car with the dealer or auto electrician using MUT-III and then change the settings yourself using our ETACS Settings Explorer online web service.

Number of materials: 6

Installation and activation of Outlander XL systems

Some of the functions of the ETACS unit can be changed using standard dealer equipment - MUT-III. However, most of the functions that determine the car’s equipment (standard alarm system, automatic central locking when accelerating, the presence of an ASC-ESP system, or cruise control) are conditionally unavailable for changes and can only be changed by a few specialists, including us and offering 3 method of activating the standard alarm and other hidden functions:

1. In Kyiv. Call and come to Victor in Poznyaki 096-500-41-45. In one visit you can get the whole range of services (ETACS Settings Explorer or how we do it).
2. In the regions. Save the coding option for your car using MUT-III (ETACS - Coding information & Copy) from the dealer or auto electrician and send it to the address with a list of desired features, and having received a corrected coding file in response, upload it back to the car. If there are 10-15 people in one city who want to activate, we will come to you! The list is being compiled in this forum thread.
3. On one's own. Save the coding option for your car with the dealer or auto electrician using MUT-III and then change the settings yourself using our web service