The flywheel from a VAZ 2106 car is removed for replacement or repair if the gear ring is damaged or if the friction surface is damaged or severely worn out.

The flywheel is installed at the rear end of the crankshaft and is fixed to it with six bolts: 1 - ring gear; 2 - fastening bolt; a - friction surface.
You will need: a screwdriver, socket wrench "17", torque wrench.
1. Remove the gearbox from the VAZ 2106 car (see section 5 "Transmission of the VAZ 2106 car").

2. Remove the clutch cover with the pressure plate and the clutch driven plate from the flywheel (see section 5 "VAZ 2106 transmission").
3. Screw the bolt into the lower left threaded hole of the clutch housing, secure the flywheel from turning by resting the screwdriver against the gear ring and supporting it on the installed bolt and the steering gear bipod, and unscrew the six bolts securing the flywheel.

4. Remove the support washer while holding the flywheel.
5. Remove the flywheel.
6. Check the condition of the ring gear; if the teeth are damaged, replace the flywheel.
7. Flywheel surfaces that mate with the crankshaft and clutch disc must be free of scratches, scuffs and perfectly flat. If there are scratches on the working surface of the flywheel 3 under the clutch disc, grind this surface, removing a layer of metal no more than 1 mm thick. Then grind surface 2, keeping the dimension (0.5 + 0.1) mm and ensuring that surfaces 2 and 3 are parallel to surface 1. The non-parallelism tolerance is 0.1 mm. After grooving, place the handwheel on the mandrel, centering it on mounting hole with an emphasis on surface 1, check the beating of planes 3 and 2. At the extreme points, the indicator should not show beats exceeding 0.1 mm.

8. Install the flywheel and the removed units and parts on the VAZ 2106 car in the reverse order of removal. The flywheel can be mounted to the crankshaft in two opposite positions determined by the location of the mounting holes. However, at the factory, it is balanced with the crankshaft assembly, so it must be installed strictly in its original position. For correct installation there is a mark on the flywheel a in the form of a conical hole, which should be oriented when installed in the same direction as the crank pin of the fourth (first) cylinder. If, after removing the flywheel, the crankshaft was turned, set the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke (see "Setting the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke"). and install the flywheel on the crankshaft by turning it with the mark a vertically up. Tighten the flywheel mounting bolts evenly crosswise with the torque given in Appendix 1. "Tightening torques for threaded connections VAZ 2106"

Engine flywheel internal combustion serves to store energy. It helps the pistons go through bottom dead center (especially when starting the engine). The flywheel transmits engine torque to the gearbox. There are three types of flywheels:

• usual;
• lightweight;
• damper (springs are installed inside the damper).

The flywheel resource is usually 120-150 thousand km. It all depends on how intensively and in what modes the engine worked. Usually, a new flywheel is installed after two sets of clutch friction linings have worn out, so the flywheel is changed complete with the clutch.

Flywheel repair

Flywheel malfunctions are obvious. This part is subjected to constant dynamic loads and friction, which leads to physical abrasion of the contact surfaces. As a result, vibrations or beats appear, and the clutch can "slip". Simple flywheels must be replaced, damper ones are restored in special workshops.

One more typical malfunction damage or wear of the rim teeth. If the flywheel is still serviceable, the crown is changed, if not, the entire assembly is changed.

Repairing damper flywheels is more difficult. They are repaired and restored in specialized workshops. Troubleshooting, accurate measurements, balancing machines, services of a professional welder. The essence of the process is that the worn surfaces are ground, the springs and the plain bearing are changed. The flywheel is balanced and tested under load. After repair, the flywheel planes should "fall" within the tolerances of backlash and runout.

Flywheel replacement

Replacement will require a car lifter, transmission rack, and standard locksmith tools.

Replacing the flywheel VAZ 2106

Engine classic Zhiguli has a conventional single-mass flywheel. Consider how to remove the flywheel and the technological sequence for replacing it:

1. First you need to get access to the flywheel. If the engine is removed, there will be no problems, if not, you need to dismantle the gearbox and clutch basket;
2. Next, you need to keep the flywheel from turning. To do this, use a special lock, but an ordinary screwdriver is also suitable;
3. Having removed the gearbox, it is necessary to unscrew the six bolts of the fastener, then remove the flywheel;
4. Installing a new flywheel . Mount the flywheel in the reverse order of dismantling. The flywheel bolts are tightened crosswise with a force of 60.1-87.4 N.m.

Dismantle the flywheel

The flywheel is one of the main components of the car. Its main function is to transfer energy from the power unit (engine) to the gearbox. The product is a multi-piece disc made of high-strength hardened metal. By outward appearance the flywheel is somewhat similar to a gear, so it will not be difficult to find it in a car.

Appointment

As we said, the flywheel transmits rotation from crankshaft car to the gearbox. But this function is not the only one. The disc is able to effectively damp crankshaft vibrations and smooth the operation of the power unit, preventing its detonation.

The flywheel makes it possible to automatically start the engine (without using the curve of the handle). As a rule, when the ignition is turned on, the starter starts to rotate, which, in turn, turns a small gear. The latter turns the flywheel. And then the movement is transferred to the crankshaft. Another function of the "hero" of our article is the accumulation of kinetic energy, which allows you to store it during acceleration and give it to the process of stopping the vehicle.

But that's not all. It is thanks to the flywheel that it becomes possible to ensure a low level idle move, reduce the load on the power unit and thus save fuel.

Major malfunctions and causes

Despite its visual reliability, the flywheel can also fail. At the same time, defects and their causes may be different. Let's take a look at the most common options:

1. Damage to teeth or their natural wear during operation. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon - the technology is broken during the assembly process, the starter is faulty (worn out), foreign "debris" has got into the flywheel housing. In such situations, you can install a new ring gear, adjust or repair the starter, restore the wiring.
2. Flywheel beats appear. The reasons for this problem include malfunctioning or natural wear of the clutch, the appearance of its slipping, long-term operation(natural wear and tear), gross errors in assembly. If such problems arise, it is necessary to check the beating force. If the problem is not significant, then you can limit yourself to surface treatment on a lathe. In the case when the runout is very strong, then the installation of a new or repair of the old clutch is required.
3. The working surface is broken. The reasons are the same as in the previous case. The way out of the situation is to install a new flywheel, adjust or adjust the clutch.
4. The integrity of the landing site under the crankshaft flange is broken. Prolonged operation of the motor or errors during the assembly process can lead to this. In this case, change the flywheel, check and (if necessary) change the crankshaft. Tighten the crankshaft and flywheel mounting bolts with the required torque.
5. The thread for the bolts is broken (or worn out during operation). Errors in installation and long-term operation of the car could lead to this. The best solution here is to replace the flywheel. But if possible, you can cut new threads and make balancing. By the way, the last work is very laborious and does not always allow you to achieve the desired result.

Features of replacing a flywheel with a VAZ-2101-2107

So, when serious problems appear (we described them above), you decided to install a new flywheel. There are two options - to trust the masters at the service station, or to do everything yourself. We will consider the budget version - self-replacement... And really, why spend extra money if there are no difficulties in such work?

Proceed in the following sequence:

1. Prepare the tool needed to replace the flywheel. All you need is a torque wrench, a screwdriver (preferably with a thick tube) and a set of socket wrenches.
2. Remove the transmission. Otherwise, the flywheel cannot be reached.
3. Remove the clutch cover from the flywheel. Remove both discs (pressure and driven) together with them.

1. Secure the flywheel securely with a heavy-duty screwdriver to prevent it from turning.
2. Remove the six disc mounting bolts.
3. Dismantle the flywheel (after removing the bolts, it should easily come out of the shaft). When removing, hold the support washer (set it aside for now). Please note that there is a special mark on the flywheel, the location of which must be remembered. When installing a new node, make sure that the label is in the same place (this is a very important point).
4. Install a new flywheel and make sure that its mark is in the correct position.

1. Put everything in place in the reverse order - screw in the flywheel bolts, put on the clutch cover and return the gearbox to its place. Special attention pay to broach the bolts - they need to be tightened not one by one (as many beginners do), but "cross to cross". This approach avoids accidental tilt of the flywheel.

During the installation process, be sure to consider some recommendations:

First, when removing the flywheel, try to prevent the car's crankshaft from turning. Otherwise, you will have more work;

Secondly, if the crankshaft is still displaced, put the 4th cylinder piston in the top dead center position.

After the piston has been set at top dead center, place the flywheel only with the mark up (you can no longer be guided by the previous sketches).

Conclusion

For some reason, many novice car enthusiasts are terribly afraid of the work of replacing the flywheel. But there is nothing difficult here. The most time consuming part of the job is removing the checkpoint. But the main thing here is attention and strict adherence to the operating instructions. All work takes no more than 2-4 hours. In this case, you can save 3-4 thousand rubles, which will definitely be requested at the service station. The main thing here is self-confidence, utmost attention and strict adherence to the time-tested algorithm. Good luck.

Welcome!
The engine flywheel is one of the most important parts in the design of a car engine, and therefore, if the flywheel is severely worn out, or if it is incorrectly installed, the car starts to slip when starting off - this means that when starting off or driving, the rpm the engine will jump and the car itself will not accelerate, but will only roar. " Therefore, the flywheel must be changed in a timely manner, since riding a worn one will bring pleasure and only bring discomfort.

Note!
To replace, you will need to stock up on: A screwdriver, as well as an L-shaped socket wrench and, if possible, take a torque wrench with you!

When should the flywheel be replaced?
It must be replaced when:

How will the car behave with a worn flywheel?

• As noted earlier, the first thing that will most likely happen is that the clutch will slip on the worn flywheel.
• And also, most likely, when starting off, the car will move, but this will be accompanied by strong vibration, which, as a result, will be transmitted to the entire machine.

How to replace a flywheel on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Withdrawal:
1) First, remove the gearbox from the vehicle. (For how to remove the gearbox, see the article titled: "Replacing the gearbox")

3) Next, fix the flywheel with a screwdriver so that it does not turn when loosening the bolts. After fixing with a socket wrench, remove all six bolts securing the flywheel to the vehicle engine.

Note!
Unscrew the bolts crosswise, because it will be much more convenient!

4) Now remove the flywheel itself and, together with the flywheel, remove the support washer.

Note!
When you take off the flywheel, be sure to look at the mark “shown with the letter A in the photo” before removing it, and then remember or take a photo of how the flywheel is installed relative to this mark in order to install the new flywheel in the same way! (Be sure to read the paragraph "", at the bottom of the article)

Installation:
1) First, install the new flywheel in the same position as the old one. (Determine this position by the label)

2) Then install all remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
When it comes to tightening the flywheel mounting bolts, tighten them evenly, crosswise. And when all the bolts are tightened, check how the flywheel stands, there should be no slopes and distortions, otherwise it will lead to its rapid wear!

Important!
After removing the old flywheel, try not to turn the crankshaft, otherwise the installation of a new flywheel may be difficult.

Note!
But if you still crank the crankshaft, then in this case, set the piston of the fourth cylinder to the "TDC - Top Dead Center" position! (For information on how to set the piston to Top Dead Center, see the article titled: "Setting the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position")

After the piston is installed, install the new flywheel in its place, strictly vertically with the mark up and nothing else!

For newbies!
Question: Where is the flywheel friction surface, as well as the ring gear, and all six mounting bolts?
Answer: A - Flywheel friction surface.
1 - Toothed rim.
2 - Flywheel mounting bolts.

A detailed procedure for removing a flywheel on a VAZ 2110 car, its troubleshooting (identification of defects and their elimination if possible) and reinstallation.

Over time, a significant mileage of our car, problems begin with the clutch, it deteriorates. Usually the flywheel does not require replacement as much as 200-300 thousand kilometers of the car's mileage and even more, but if it starts to fail after 50 or 100 thousand km, then here you need to look for the reason for it rapid wear(this could be rough driving, weather conditions or traction defects that need to be repaired). The procedure for replacing the flywheel itself is not complicated, but it requires a certain amount of time, because because of this part, you will have to dismantle the gearbox and disassemble the clutch (read about on VAZ cars).

Flywheel removal and troubleshooting:

1. Before starting work, remove the battery (see article) from the car, drain the oil from the gearbox and remove it.

2. Perform transmission removal and disassembly.

3. Now that you have reached the flywheel, remove the six bolts securing it. But to do this, put back one bolt of the gearbox mounting and insert a screwdriver with one hand into the teeth of the flywheel so that it does not rotate while unscrewing the bolts.

4. While holding the flywheel with one hand, remove the bolt retaining plate with the final bolt with the other.

5. Now carefully remove the flywheel from the crankshaft flange.

7. If everything is in order with the rim of the teeth, then switch your gaze to the adjacent surface of the driven disc, it should not have deep abrasions and other defects.

8. Also carry out a similar troubleshooting on the back of the driven disk, or rather, look at the often adjacent crankshaft flange.

If such distortions are visible in 7 or 8 points, then the flywheel must be replaced with a new one or repaired - polished on special equipment in a car workshop.

9. To make an accurate check or repair of the clutch disc, - go with it to an automobile workshop where the required equipment is available. Actions and recommendations for flywheel repair:

• Troubleshooting of the adjoining surface of the clutch disc (3) should not be more than 0.06 mm.
• The non-parallelism of the upper surface of the clutch plate and the lower (2) for attaching the clutch should not be more than 0.1 mm.
• On the planes of the clutch disc (1 and 3), the runout should not be more than 0.1 mm.
• When cleaning the surface of the flywheel (3) from abrasions and scratches, you should know that the maximum possible removal of a layer of metal is not more than 1 mm.
• Grind surface (2) at the same time as side (3). To do this, observe a step between them with a height of 0.5 ± 0.1 mm. When grooving, observe the parallelism of the mating surfaces (1 and 3).

10. As with cleaning the surface of the flywheel finish, proceed with its re-installation. First of all, degrease the bolts and threaded holes for them, and then apply sealant to their threads. Mount the part back in the order of removal, only align correctly the holes on the crankshaft flange and flywheel (they are located asymmetrically).