How to remove and install the flywheel. Its defectiveness. Replacing and repairing the flywheel: main difficulties Removing and troubleshooting the flywheel

Welcome!
The engine flywheel is one of the most important parts in the design of a car engine, and therefore, if the flywheel is heavily worn, or if it is installed incorrectly, the car begins to “slip” when starting from a standstill - this means that when starting from a standstill or while driving, the speed is the engine will jump and the car itself will not accelerate, but will only roar.” Therefore, the flywheel must be changed in a timely manner, since driving on a worn one will bring pleasure but will only bring discomfort.

Note!
To replace, you will need to stock up on: A screwdriver, as well as an L-shaped socket wrench and, if possible, take a torque wrench with you!

When should you replace the flywheel?
It must be replaced when:

How will the car behave with a worn flywheel?

As noted earlier, the first thing that will most likely happen is that the clutch will slip on the worn flywheel.
And most likely, when starting off, the car will move, but this will be accompanied by strong vibration, which as a result will be transmitted to the entire machine.

How to replace the flywheel on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Removal:
1) First, remove the transmission from the car. (For information on how to remove the gearbox, see the article entitled: “Replacing the gearbox”)

3) Next, secure the flywheel with a screwdriver so that it does not turn when loosening the bolts. After fixing, use a socket wrench to remove all six bolts securing the flywheel to the car engine.

Note!
Unscrew the bolts crosswise, because this will be much more convenient!

4) Now remove the flywheel itself and remove the support washer along with the flywheel.

Note!
When you remove the flywheel, be sure to look at the mark “indicated by the letter A in the photo” before removing it and then remember or take a photo of how the flywheel is installed relative to this mark, in order to install the new flywheel in the same way! (Be sure to read the “” paragraph at the bottom of the article)

Installation:
1) First install the new flywheel in the same position as the old one. (Determine this position by the mark)

2) Then install all remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
When it comes to tightening the flywheel mounting bolts, tighten them evenly, crosswise. And when all the bolts are tightened, check how the flywheel is positioned; there should be no slopes or distortions, otherwise this will lead to rapid wear!

Important!
After removing the old flywheel, try not to turn crankshaft Otherwise, installing a new flywheel may be difficult.

Note!
But if you still crank the crankshaft, then in this case set the piston of the fourth cylinder to the “TDC - Top Dead Center” position! (For information on how to set the piston to the “Top Dead Center”, see the article entitled: “Installing the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position”)

After the piston is installed, install the new flywheel in its place, strictly vertically with the mark up and nothing else!

For beginners!
Question: Where is the friction surface of the flywheel, as well as the ring gear, and all six mounting bolts?
Answer: A – Flywheel friction surface.
1 – Ring gear.
2 – Flywheel mounting bolts.

Note!
To replace, you will need to stock up on: A screwdriver, as well as an L-shaped socket wrench and, if possible, take a torque wrench with you!

When should you replace the flywheel?
It must be replaced when:

How will the car behave with a worn flywheel?

As noted earlier, the first thing that will most likely happen is that the clutch will slip on the worn flywheel.
And also, most likely, when starting from a stop, the car will move, but this will be accompanied by strong vibration, which as a result will be transmitted to the entire car.

How to replace the flywheel on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Removal:
1) First, remove the transmission from the car. (For information on how to remove the gearbox, see the article entitled: “Replacing the gearbox”)

3) Next, secure the flywheel with a screwdriver so that it does not turn when loosening the bolts. After fixing, use a socket wrench to remove all six bolts securing the flywheel to the car engine.

Note!
Unscrew the bolts crosswise, because this will be much more convenient!

4) Now remove the flywheel itself and remove the support washer along with the flywheel.

Installation:
1) First install the new flywheel in the same position as the old one. (Determine this position by the mark)

2) Then install all remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Important!
After removing the old flywheel, try not to rotate the crankshaft, otherwise installing a new flywheel may be difficult.

After the piston is installed, install the new flywheel in its place, strictly vertically with the mark up and nothing else!

The flywheel from a VAZ 2106 car is removed for replacement or repair if the ring gear is damaged or if the friction surface is damaged or severely worn.

The flywheel is installed at the rear end of the crankshaft and secured to it with six bolts: 1 - ring gear; 2 - fastening bolt; a is the friction surface.
You will need: a screwdriver, a 17mm socket wrench, a torque wrench.
1. Remove the gearbox from the VAZ 2106 car (see section 5 “Transmission of the VAZ 2106 car”).

2. Remove the clutch housing with the pressure plate and the driven clutch disk from the flywheel (see section 5 “Transmission of a VAZ 2106”).
3. Screw the bolt into the lower left threaded hole of the clutch housing mount, secure the flywheel from turning by resting the screwdriver against the ring gear and resting it on the installed bolt and bipod of the steering mechanism, and unscrew the six bolts securing the flywheel.

4. Remove the support washer while holding the flywheel.
5. Remove the flywheel.
6. Check the condition of the ring gear; If the teeth are damaged, replace the flywheel.
7. The surfaces of the flywheel mating to the crankshaft and the clutch driven disc must be free of scratches, burrs and completely flat. If there are scratches on the working surface 3 of the flywheel under the clutch driven disc, grind this surface, removing a layer of metal no more than 1 mm thick. Then grind surface 2, maintaining the dimension (0.5+0.1) mm and ensuring parallelism of surfaces 2 and 3 relative to surface 1. The tolerance for non-parallelism is 0.1 mm. After grooving, install the flywheel on the mandrel, centering it along mounting hole with emphasis on surface 1, check the runout of planes 3 and 2. At the extreme points, the indicator should not show runout exceeding 0.1 mm.

8. Install the flywheel and the removed components and parts on the VAZ 2106 car in the reverse order of removal. The flywheel can be installed on the crankshaft in two opposite positions, determined by the location of the mounting holes. However, at the factory it is balanced together with the crankshaft, so it must be installed strictly in its original position. There is a mark on the flywheel for correct installation. A in the form of a conical hole, which should be oriented when installed in the same direction as the connecting rod journal of the fourth (first) cylinder. If the crankshaft was turned after removing the flywheel, set the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke (see “Setting the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke”). and install the flywheel on the crankshaft, turning it with the mark A vertically up. Tighten the flywheel mounting bolts evenly crosswise with the torque given in Appendix 1. “Tightening torques for threaded connections of VAZ 2106”

A detailed procedure for removing the flywheel on a VAZ 2110 car, troubleshooting it (identifying defects and eliminating them if possible) and reinstalling them.

Over time, our car has a significant mileage, problems with the clutch begin, and it deteriorates. Usually the flywheel does not require replacement up to 200-300 thousand kilometers of the car or even more, but if it starts to fail after 50 or 100 thousand km, then you need to look for the reason for it rapid wear(this could be harsh riding, weather conditions or clutch defects that need to be addressed). The procedure for replacing the flywheel itself is not complicated, but it does require a certain amount of time, because because of this part you will have to dismantle the gearbox and disassemble the clutch (read about it on VAZ cars).

Removing and troubleshooting the flywheel:

1. Before starting work, remove the battery (see article) from the car, drain the oil from the gearbox and remove it.

2. Remove the gearbox and disassemble it.

3. Now that you have reached the flywheel, unscrew the six bolts securing it. But to do this, put back one bolt securing the gearbox and insert a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel with one hand so that it does not rotate while unscrewing the bolts.

4. While holding the flywheel with one hand, remove the bolt locking plate from the final bolt with the other.

5. Now carefully remove the flywheel from the crankshaft flange.

7. If everything is in order with the rim of the teeth, then switch your gaze to the adjacent surface of the driven disk; it should not have deep abrasions or other defects.

8. Also carry out a similar troubleshooting on the back side of the driven disk, or rather look at the adjacent crankshaft flange.

If such distortions are visible in points 7 or 8, then the flywheel must be replaced with a new one or repaired - sanded using special equipment in a car repair shop.

9. To carry out an accurate check or repair of the clutch driven disc, take it to a car workshop that has the required equipment. Actions and recommendations for repairing the flywheel:

The defect of the adjacent surface of the clutch disc (3) should not be more than 0.06 mm.
The parallelism between the upper contact surface of the driven disk and the lower surface (2) for fastening the clutch should not be more than 0.1 mm.
On the clutch disc planes (1 and 3), the runout should not be more than 0.1 mm.
When cleaning the surface of the flywheel (3) from abrasions and scratches, you should know that the maximum possible removal of a layer of metal is no more than 1 mm.
At the same time as side (3), surface (2) should also be sanded. To do this, maintain a step between them with a height of 0.5±0.1 mm. When grooving, keep the adjacent surfaces (1 and 3) parallel.

10. Once you have finished cleaning the surface of the flywheel, proceed to reinstall it. First of all, degrease the bolts and threaded holes under them, and then apply sealant to their threads. Reinstall the part in the order of removal, only align the holes on the crankshaft flange and the flywheel correctly (they are located asymmetrically).

When extraneous noise When the engine is running, the flywheel often needs to be replaced. This procedure should be carried out in compliance with a number of recommendations.

Replacing the flywheel in a car may be necessary for a number of reasons, for example:

by mileage;
after frequent replacement of clutch components;
as it wears out.

In this case, you may notice some signs of a malfunction of this part, for example, extraneous sounds when starting and stopping the engine. If such signs appear, it is worth diagnosing, repairing or replacing faulty elements, the structure of which must be known in order to correct faults.

In order to understand the replacement procedure, you should study problematic situations that may arise during operation of the flywheel.

There are several types of malfunctions that arise during the operation of this engine element.

Defect one: wear and/or damage to the element’s ring gear

Causes of malfunction:

wear and/or breakdown of the starter, its individual elements or nodes;
incorrect installation of the starter in the flywheel housing;
foreign particles entering a device such as a flywheel housing;
errors during the assembly of the structure;
The flywheel ring gear is worn out during long-term operation engine.

Work progress:

The flywheel ring gear must be replaced;
correct installation of the starter in the flywheel housing;
checking the operation of the starter and repairing it, if necessary.

Defect two: flywheel runout

Causes of malfunction:

clutch slip;
natural wear of the component during long-term engine operation;
assembly errors.

Work progress:

runout check;
with small runout - surface treatment using a lathe;
with large runout - change the part;
checking the functionality of the clutch, repairing it and replacing it if necessary;
checking the operation of the clutch release drive and repairing it, if necessary;
proper tightening of the mounting bolts, while maintaining the correct torque - approximately 100 N*m.

It is worth noting that the permissible runout value must be set by the manufacturer; it can be found in the appropriate reference book. In this case, you need to know what role exceeding this value can play.

Runout can cause damage to the working surfaces on which the clutch driven disc operates.

In this case, the car owner may notice some signs of malfunction when the engine is running. When correcting malfunctions, it is necessary to observe the correct tightening torque of the mounting bolts.

Defect three: violation of the functionality of the working surface under the driven clutch disc

Causes of malfunction:

clutch wear or failure;
clutch slip;
the device wears out during long-term operation of the engine;
errors when assembling the part.

Work progress:

element replacement;
checking, repairing and replacing the clutch if necessary;
checking and repairing the clutch release drive as necessary.

It is worth noting that the operation of an element with a broken clutch can lead to warping of the working surfaces of the flywheel, as well as the formation of cracks.

These signs can be detected during diagnosis.

Defect four: damage to the crankshaft flange seat

Causes of malfunction

the device wears out with prolonged engine operation;
violation of the assembly of the part.

Work progress:

part replacement;
checking, repairing and replacing the crankshaft as needed;
correct installation of the crankshaft in the flywheel housing;
correct assembly technology;
implementation of the correct tightening of the bolts securing the element to the crankshaft, while maintaining the correct torque.

When carrying out troubleshooting work, the correct tightening torque of the mounting bolts must be observed.

Fifth defect: malfunction and wear of the threads of the holes intended for mounting bolts

Causes of malfunction:

violation of the assembly of the part: the flywheel casing is incorrectly positioned or secured;
The device wears out with prolonged engine operation.

Work progress:

element replacement;
drilling damaged threads, cutting new ones if possible;
checking how the flywheel housing is fixed, correcting it if it is in the wrong position;
balancing the part.

It is worth noting that for any actions that involve replacing an element, it is imperative to balance the crankshaft assembly with disk and flywheel, after which you can begin operation.

This plays an important role in the subsequent correct operation of all parts. It is also necessary to check that the flywheel housing is correctly positioned and secured.

Procedure for replacing an element

When replacing an element, the part must first be removed. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the following algorithm of actions:

Remove the gearbox in the car.
Remove the flywheel housing along with the driven and pressure plate.
Fix the element with a screwdriver, and it will not turn when the bolts are unscrewed.
Unscrewing the six bolts securing the flywheel to the engine internal combustion. They should be unscrewed crosswise, which makes the task much easier.
Remove the element and support washer. In this case, you need to remember the position of the flywheel relative to the inspection mark.

Installation of the new structure is also carried out in stages:

Installing a new part in the same position in which the old one was installed.
Install all remaining elements in the reverse order of removal, making sure that the flywheel housing is correctly positioned and the tightening torque of the mounting bolts is within the recommended values.

It is necessary to take into account that the element fastening bolts should be tightened evenly, crosswise, after which you need to check how the part itself stands: after tightening there should be no distortions or slopes, so that wear does not occur quickly. When tightening the bolts, the correct torque should be observed - approximately 100 N*m.

After removing the part, you must not turn the crankshaft, since this may make installing a new design difficult. But if, nevertheless, the crankshaft was turned, you need to set the piston of cylinder number 4 to the top dead center position, after which you should install the new part in its place according to the location of the mark. At correct installation and operation of the element in the engine, the duration of its trouble-free operation will be longer, signs of malfunctions will not appear, and repairs will not be required for quite a long time. It is important to carry out all stages of work correctly - from removing the old part to tightening the fastening bolts. It's also worth paying attention special attention at the moment of tightening the fastening bolts: it should be approximately 100 N*m.