Putting your car in order, sometimes you have to find an unpleasant problem - a through hole in the bottom of the body. Some car owners immediately turn to a car service for help, while others try to close the hole on their own. In the second case, you have the opportunity to save time and money, and also be able to master new auto repair techniques, which is always useful and relevant.

Holes in the bottom

Many people do not have a large number of repair and construction tools and equipment, so not every car owner has a welding machine in the garage or workshop. In fact, if a hole in the body is no larger than a matchbox, it is quite possible to repair it yourself without welding. There are several ways to do this:

• cover the hole with putty;
• solder a metal patch;
• seal with epoxy;
• apply fiberglass and glue;
• install rivet joints;
• use galvanized metal sheet.

Galvanized sheet

Filling holes with putty

In the area of ​​the hole in the bottom, the damaged coating should be removed, that is, the old layer of paint, and the metal should be cleaned, treated with a special preparation - a rust converter. Then the working surface is degreased and primed. Next, a putty solution of a homogeneous consistency is prepared. For greater efficiency, fiberglass is added to it (most often with large elements). Then the composition is carefully applied to the damaged area. Perhaps this is the most important part of the work. It is necessary to close up the entire hole, cracks and microcracks that may arise around it. The application of the solution should take place in several stages, allowing each new layer to dry.

Filling with putty

To achieve maximum fixation of the putty on the damaged area, a lining is applied to the reverse side. It does not allow the solution to spread, but to act in the area that needs to be repaired. If the hole in the bottom of the car is large enough, this repair method can also be used with auxiliary elements. Instead of a lining, a metal mesh is mounted in the area of ​​damage. Therefore, the putty is evenly distributed over it, filling the entire space. After the solution is completely dry, this area is treated with automotive paint putty. Then the damaged area is painted and a protective film is applied.

Putty for cars

This method of sealing holes in a car is the simplest. But experts do not recommend using it, because the putty allows moisture to pass through and can collapse over time. Also, holes are treated with a solution when repairs need to be done urgently, and there are no other alternatives.

Soldering a metal patch

Soldering a metal element into a damaged area is a way to seal holes in the bottom or any other part of a car when you can close the hole without large sizes. To repair a machine using this technology, you must have the following tools:

• a piece of metal sheet;
• powerful soldering iron;
• flux or rust converter;
• putty;
• primer.

Materials in the car

So, for starters, the area to be repaired is cleaned, paint, rust, and dirt are removed. Next, it is treated with flux and degreased. Then measurements are taken and a metal piece of the desired shape is cut out. Such an element will completely close the hole, and the edges will overlap. When the part for the patch is ready, it is attached with a soldering iron. The edges of the patch are then treated with flux. In the end, it is worth treating the area with putty and primed it. When the surface dries, paint and a protective layer are applied.

This method of sealing holes in the bottom of the car is the most popular. Experts note the durability of soldered patches, as the connection is quite reliable. In addition, this method can close up a hole of any size. In general, soldering a patch is quite simple, which even a beginner who does not have great experience in car repair.

The sequence of actions when sealing holes in the bottom

Application of fiberglass and glue

For moderate damage, the method of sealing holes with fiberglass is often used. When this area is processed and cleaned of layers of paint and rust, it is necessary to cut several overlays from fiberglass, the size of a hole plus 2 centimeters. This area should be pre-primed and allowed to dry.

car repair kit

An overlay is applied to a dry surface and fixed with a mixture (polyester or epoxy resin + glue). The next "detail" is attached and also fixed. Thus, all fiberglass parts are glued, laying them one on one. So that they do not sag and do not deform, a lining should be placed. When the resin with glue dries, you need to process the work area and paint it.

fiberglass

Installation of galvanizing and riveting connections

Processing holes in the bottom of a car with galvanized metal is quite common. The main material needed for this is iron sheet. Before installation, it should be fixed with self-tapping screws and lubricated with mastic. It is best to use an anti-noise bituminous mixture. Then galvanized is laid and bolted with a drill. Then you need to treat the area with special tools, level the entire surface. When everything dries and the structure is fixed, it should be covered with paint.

Sometimes, before painting a car, having picked off another “bug”, we suddenly find a through hole under it formed during the corrosion process. What to do in such a case? Run to bow to the repairman with a welding machine, or solve this problem on your own, even without a welder?

Everything, of course, depends on the general condition of the car, if this is only a local through hole, and not a completely rotten body part, then we will proceed to eliminate it.

To begin with, the corrosive place must be cleaned of rust. To do this, we use various brushes on the drill, or a special vinyl nozzle on the drill.

Next, we proceed to the elimination of holes formed as a result of stripping rust. In difficult cases, holes and openings of a large area, as already mentioned above, it is certainly necessary to turn to the help of welding and a bodybuilder.

We, however, will consider easier cases, where the size of the hole (hole) does not exceed the size of a matchbox. There are two ways to eliminate them.

Filling the hole with fiberglass putty is not our method.

Some auto repairers, either out of inexperience, or simply not wanting to achieve high-quality work, try to close up a corrosive hole with glass fiber putty. This is of course a very simple method, but it has one big drawback.

Let me explain, since the putty is inherently hygroscopic, i.e. passes water, then on a freshly painted car, in a couple of days or after the first rain, an ugly bubble filled with water will come out on a new coating in the place of the former hole. This is easy to verify if you pierce it with a needle. This option, chickens laugh and we do not need this method of repairing corrosive holes. So...

We solder the patch - and this is our method!

The principle of this method is quite simple - a patch. We cut out from a piece of metal (as a "donor" you can, for example, use cans from car chemicals) a patch that covers the hole in the body with its size, and solder it with a powerful soldering iron, using an acid rust converter (orthophosphoric acid) as a flux, and of course tin solder.

All stages are shown in the picture below.

1 The edges of the patch must be irradiated before soldering. (All rust converter treated areas should be rinsed following the instructions on the rust converter label after soldering).

2 We also serve the surface (hole edges) to which the patch will be soldered. After soldering the patch (and it should be soldered with a continuous seam, without empty spaces), you need to measure whether it protrudes above the surface with a bubble. (We don't need bumps!). You can do this with a metal ruler. If it protrudes, then it follows with a light hammer and light blows to drown the patch (see Fig.).

The resulting small dip will be leveled with putty.

Remember! The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2-3 mm, otherwise it may crack in the future.

Now that all the holes are soldered, and all the rust is cleaned to the metal, we prepare the surface for puttying.

To do this, you need sandpaper with an abrasive size of 120 (manufacturers Mirka, 3M or similar).

We determine by eye the size of the places that should be matted. They should slightly exceed the size of the putty area. And light in a circular motion apply adhesive risk. It is needed so that the putty has something to hold on to the surface.

After preparing all the places for puttying, we take a cloth, White Spirit and carefully process all the sanded surfaces, from excess dust, dirt, and the surface is also degreased.

And now we can move on to the responsible operation, preliminary priming. The cleaned metal surface rusts easily, so it is not recommended to leave the surface without protective coating more than an hour - a primer should be applied. To do this, you need two types of soil.

Priming with acid soil

The first layer of primer is phosphate, which is also acidic. As a rule, this is a two-component primer, diluted in glass or plastic dishes, as it interacts with iron to remove water molecules from the surface. Also, you can use acid primer in aerosol cans.

Phosphate primer is applied in one or two thin layers, directly on bare metal. It dries quickly, is very liquid, so it can give smudges, but in this case it's okay, smudges can be neglected. Within 10-15 minutes. (time is indicated at a temperature close to +20, at other temperatures make an approximate adjustment) you can start priming with acrylic primer.

Priming with acrylic primer

It should be applied in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 5-10 minutes. You can use primer from aerosol cans, especially if you do not have a compressor. Then all this is dried for about three hours (when using forced infrared heating, the drying time can be reduced to 20-30 minutes).

I would like to note that personal experience that such patches hold on for quite a long time. I will say this, two years is not the limit!

Happy repair!

sam-automaster.com

Corrosion repair without welding

The body of any car is the most expensive part of it, so it needs constant care and cosmetic repairs. Through corrosion - the trouble of many modern machines. Are there ways to avoid buying a new car frame and how to fix a hole without welding - these are the two pressing questions of many car owners.

The cost of work in car services is impressive, so many people prefer to repair their cars on their own.

Tools and materials required for work

Corrosion repair without welding is the cheapest and easiest way to fix the problem. To do this, you need to buy the following set:

• Aluminum mesh with size about 25*18cm;
• Scotch tape (preferably metal);
• fiberglass putty;
• Sandpaper with a degree of grit 80 or 120;
• Air machine for leveling surfaces;
• Universal putty;
• Primer;
• Paint (to match the body);
• Tools for polishing paintwork.

Stages of work

All work on the quick elimination of a hole in the body without welding is carried out in stages:

• Cleaning the damaged area from rust and paint;
• Fixing with adhesive tape on the empty place of the body of the aluminum mesh (there should be space between the strips of adhesive tape to fill the mesh with putty);

When fixing the mesh, it is necessary to apply maximum efforts to fix it flush with the car fender.

• The space between the attached adhesive tape on the grid is filled with fiberglass putty. In this case, it is necessary to carefully rub the material into the cellular mesh structure to form a sufficiently thick layer;
• After the putty dries, the adhesive tape is removed;
• Re-applying putty to finally fill the hole in the body;
• The hole in the body is puttied both outside and inside. You should get a solid and neat patch;
• The dried surface should make a dull sound when tapped;
• Leveling the patch with coarse sandpaper, grit 80 or 120. In this case, special equipment can be used, for example, an air machine to obtain a more even surface of the formed patch;
• Application of a universal putty composition and again - sanding;
• Cleaning the working area from dirt and dust, pasting it around the perimeter with adhesive tape;
• Applying primer first, then paint;
• The next step is to cover the repaired area with varnish;
• The final chord is the polishing of the repaired area.

If you look closely, then corrosion repair without welding will be noticeable on the body. However, this method of solving the problem requires little cost, even an inexperienced car owner can cope with the work. Hole puttying can be used only with minor damage to the body.

If the corrosion of the body is removed with a mesh and putty, the duration of the patch is from one to two years.

The method is used only in emergency cases: urgent inspection or preparing the car for sale. If the car is expensive and the owner is not going to change it, it is better to entrust the work to car service professionals. And one more important detail - if corrosion has affected most of the car body, the expensive part will have to be replaced with a new one.

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KuzovSpec.ru

How to repair holes in a car body yourself

One of the most problematic and expensive options for giving a car a presentation is repairing holes in its body. This damage can be repaired at the service station or try to get rid of it yourself. The first method will require significant costs, but the second will be cheaper, but it will take quite a lot of time. In addition, not everyone can properly repair holes.

Stages of repairing body holes

Work to eliminate holes in the body requires careful preparation of the treated area. The area around the hole is carefully cleaned with coarse sandpaper, while its radius should be at least 3 cm larger than the size of the hole itself. They remove not only the top layer of paint and varnish, but also the primer. As a result, metal should be visible in the cleaned area, which is treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Next, solder the patch. Any piece of metal can be used for it right size. It is important to take into account that similar repair carried out from the back of the body, so that the violation of its integrity was the least noticeable. Before soldering, the patch, as well as the damage site itself, is tinned using phosphoric acid as a flux. Its use is especially appropriate in this case, because, firstly, it eliminates the possibility of corrosion at the place of the solder, and secondly, it allows you to make the most reliable and inconspicuous seam.

The soldering of the patch is carried out continuously, leaving no loose gaps. After the treated area has cooled down, you should check if our patch is a bubble on the surface of the car. If, nevertheless, it turned out to be uneven, straightening is carried out with a small hammer, avoiding damage to the paint.

Further, the repair involves puttying the area with a patch in order to hide it as much as possible. First you need to sand the repaired area, then degrease it and dry it. Important: putty should be applied in a fairly thin layer, because with a thickness of more than 3 mm, the material will not adhere well to the metal. Priming itself is carried out in two stages: the application of acid and acrylic primer. In order not to bother with the preparation of a two-component composition for the first stage, you can use a phosphate primer packed in cans. Acrylic primer is also sold in aerosol form, which will be very convenient in the absence of a compressor and minor damage.

Alternative options for repairing holes in the body

To repair a hole with a small size, you can close the hole with putty by mixing it with fiberglass. This method is much faster and simpler than the previous one, but it will not last long either - under the influence of precipitation, the hole will begin to swell and become too noticeable. However, this option may come in handy if you are preparing a car for sale.

If there is no desire or opportunity to repair the hole, but you don’t want to drive with it, use stickers for cars. This is very often done with corporate or work machines. This type of repair is conditional, but the appearance remains on top.

If your car has serious damage, the size of a matchbox, it is best to fix it with welding. A professional at a good service station can skillfully perform them. Alternatively, you can do the welding work yourself if you have the proper experience and the necessary equipment.

PokraskaMashin.ru

Body damage repair without welding

Restoration of integrity and appearance vehicle using welding is often not economically feasible, and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then apply methods of body repair without welding. It is not recommended to restore load-bearing elements in this way, especially on your own.

Non-welding repair methods

Almost all body work without the use of welding is classified as non-professional. They are not the result of any developments in this area, they are based on the use of the properties of certain materials and substances, they do not have a clear technology that has been tested and regulated by the relevant institutions, organizations, standards and state standards. This is the fruit of folk wisdom and ingenuity of domestic craftsmen, initiated by the specific conditions of our life. For example, in Europe, it would never occur to anyone to try to repair a damaged body part or broken car- they are simply replaced with new ones. These methods are focused, first of all, on the elimination of through damage to the front surfaces and the bottom of the car.

General requirements, rules are as follows. If necessary, cut or expand the damaged area using a grinder. The repaired area is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. Treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degreased. After sealing the hole at the repair site, a surface of the desired configuration is formed; if necessary, paint auto-putty is used. Then prepare the body for painting.

Puttying

Use putty with fiberglass. It is of the following types:

• with small glass fibers;
• with average;
• with the big ones.

To seal through damage, a composition with large fibers is used. The method is suitable for small holes or when significant damage is located in the region of constructive "pockets" that protect large masses of putty from shedding (for example, the front of the hood over grille). To fix the composition during work, you can use linings that are installed on the reverse side of the damage. Puttying is the most unreliable way. Mainly used as a last resort emergency repairs and when there are no other alternatives.

Before starting work, the cleaned metal of the body is primed. When mixing putty with hardener, bubbles should be avoided. The composition is first smeared inside, and then laid on top. When the damage is significant, the work is carried out in several stages. Allow one layer to dry, then apply the next. Drying occurs naturally.

The use of aluminum mesh makes it possible to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fixed with tape. At the end of the work, the adhesive tape is removed.

Fiberglass and glue

For more serious damage, use fiberglass and adhesive, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass is used to reinforce the patch. This method is more reliable than the previous one and also requires preliminary priming.

Several overlays are cut out of fiberglass according to the shape of the hole. The size of the first one provides overlapping damage by 2 cm. Subsequent pieces of fiberglass are larger than the previous ones, the latter completely covers the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.

The pads are impregnated with glue and installed, or applied to the damaged surface with glue applied in ascending order of size. To prevent the fabric from sagging during work, with large holes, linings are installed. At the end of the work, the resin is given time to dry and grab. The method is suitable for small lesions.

Soldering

Used to repair large damage. A patch made of a sheet of metal is pressed tightly against the body, the connection to which is made with solder. Flux is used to ensure solder strength. This method is quite simple to implement and even a beginner can do it; in terms of reliability - something between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected based on the alloys of the metals being joined. Perform soldering with an electric soldering iron high power.

Main disadvantages:

• relatively high cost (due to the high price of solder);
• the connection is not strong enough (welding is much more reliable).

The metal patch should completely cover the hole. Before starting work, the soldering points on the lining and the body are tinned (they are treated with solder with flux using a soldering iron). The larger the area of ​​tinning and, accordingly, soldering, the more reliable the connection. If the soldered pad protrudes strongly, then it is leveled on the surface of the car part with a hammer. The resulting dent is sealed with putty.

Years of operation of the car make the body unusable. Repairs are carried out in specialized centers. The use of welding becomes necessary.

Non-welding methods are an alternative. Using welding machines to restore a car body is often not economically feasible. The work requires special equipment, great skills.

Bearing elements must be welded by welding, but when repairing body surfaces, you can do without welding. Such repairs can be done with your own hands in a garage. Even a beginner will cope with the task. The video of experts will help.

Weldless auto repair options

Auto body repairs without welding are considered unprofessional because they are not the product of numerous scientific studies. There are several ways.

General requirements: the damaged area is removed with a grinder or a chisel. Apply anticorrosive, zinc, degrease. Next, the holes are sealed with a putty, creating a surface of a suitable shape, painted.

Car puttying

Used fiberglass material with structure:

• shallow;
• middle;
• large.

Coarse-fiber composition is suitable for repairing minor damage. Applicable when they are near constructive pockets. Fix the composition of the lining, placed with inside. Puttying is a budget option, but there is little reliability.

A layer of putty is applied to the cleaned, primed metal surface. First inside, then the surface is worked out. After the starting layer has hardened, the second layer follows. Drying is done at room temperature.

The use of aluminum/brass mesh makes it possible to repair significant damage. The mesh closes the hole, fastened with adhesive tape. After puttying, processing, the adhesive tape is removed.

If the corrosion of the body is removed with a mesh and putty, the duration of the patch is from one to two years.

Fiberglass + synthetic adhesive

Major damage is repaired with fiberglass. The adhesive is epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass is applied in several layers, each overlapping the previous one. 2 cm.

Everything is coated with adhesive. The sagging of the fabric is eliminated by installing linings. Drying is in progress. The option is suitable for minor damage.

When treating a car with a chemical agent, follow the instructions that come with it exactly!

Soldering

A method for removing significant body damage. The metal patch is pressed against the body, connected with solder. Flux will give strength. Solder, flux are selected based on metal alloys. They work with a high-powered electric soldering iron.

Negative points:

• high cost of solder;
• low strength.

The metal patch should close the hole without a gap. The initial stage is the tinning of the surface. The protruding lining is upset with a hammer. Next - puttying, painting.

Rivets

Option for repairing large damaged areas, replacing parts. The method is preferable to welding when repairing the bottom. The damaged area is removed, a new piece of metal or part is placed. Riveted with steel rivets, diameter - 5 mm, for load-bearing elements - 6 mm.

Before placing the rivets, they are treated with an anti-corrosion agent. Riveter required.

Other ways

The bottom is repaired with galvanized sheets, using bolted connections. The damaged area is removed with an angle grinder. Cut out 2 pieces of galvanized metal - for the top and bottom. The floor is coated with bituminous mastic on both sides. Galvanization is also processed.

Mount the lower component, fixing it with self-tapping screws. The long ends are removed. Install the top piece. Bolted M5. Fasteners go around the perimeter to avoid bending the sheets.

Repair of box-shaped body elements without welding equipment is carried out by drilling holes. Then the tool is inserted, the malfunction is put in order. The hole is closed in any of the above ways.

Car body repair without welding: do-it-yourself repair, video

author

For 15 years I have been repairing various types of cars, including brands such as VAZ, UAZ, Chevrolet, Mazda, Kia and many others. Everything related to the box, engine or chassis. You can write me your question below in the comments and I will try to answer it in detail.

How to fix a hole in a car body? Sometimes before painting vehicle small “bugs” are found on its body, under which a through hole is hidden. Consider how to make a patch on the body yourself. Fast way masking a hole in the body without a major overhaul! You can repair a hole in the body yourself if its size is no larger than a matchbox.

You can use 2 methods to fix this problem.

The hole can be masked with a putty containing fiberglass additives. This method is simple and fast, but not everyone can call it successful.

Therefore, it is better to choose a more complex, but effective method vehicle body repair.

How to repair serious damage to the car body

It consists in installing a patch cut from thin metal, such as a tin can. First, a piece of metal of the required size is cut out to completely cover the hole. Then with a powerful soldering iron, the patch is soldered to the body, using an acid rust converter as a flux.

When performing this procedure, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Before soldering the patch, its edges must be irradiated with a soldering iron. You also need to irradiate the surface on which soldering is performed. The patch must be soldered with a continuous seam so that there are no empty spaces.

You need to make sure that the patch is not swollen over the hole. If this happens, you must carefully drown the metal with a hammer. If there is a failure, which most often happens, the patch must be removed with putty, the layer of which should be no more than 3 mm thick. To do this you need to do

How to fix a hole in the back of a car - the following steps:

1. Find sandpaper with an abrasive size of 120. By eye, you need to determine the surface area that should be putty, adding 2-3 millimeters on each side of the patch.

3. After the final preparation of the place for puttying, it is necessary to carefully process the sanded surfaces with a small rag moistened with White Spirit, cleaning them of dust and dirt, while degreasing them.

4. Next, you can begin to perform the most crucial step, which consists in pre-priming the patch. This work should be done immediately after the metal is treated with alcohol, since after 2-3 hours, corrosion of this part of the body will begin.

5. First, the first primer coat (acid or phosphate) is applied. This two-component primer is best diluted in a glass jar or plastic bowl. Another option is to use an acid primer available in aerosol cans.

6. Phosphate primer should be applied to the patch in a thin layer. The soil begins to dry out quickly, and may give smudges. After fifteen minutes, you can start applying another thin layer. The procedure should be performed at a room temperature of 20 degrees.

7. After some time (from 1 to 15 minutes), the last layer of acrylic two-component primer is applied. It takes a few minutes to dry the patch, then you can start painting the body so that it shines, as if the car had just left the dealership. To speed up this process, you can use infrared heating.

How to fix a hole in the back of a car, we told, it's quite simple!