Fan pipes are replaced for various reasons, the most common of which are related to apartment renovations or changes in housing layouts. For these situations, the product of replacing sewer pipes is considered normal process guaranteeing the operational durability of the reconstructed apartment or the repair work carried out. In addition, communication replacement is also carried out when moving sanitary fixtures. This requires the drawing up of a new wiring diagram by a qualified specialist, which prevents the occurrence of possible operational problems.

Cast iron pipes tend to be overgrown with various drain residues, which leads to a decrease in their permeability, and, accordingly, to the formation of blockages and air pockets. With prolonged inactivity in such cases, it will be necessary to replace the sewer pipes with new modern and long-lasting materials. Such manipulations can be carried out independently. This requires a full volume preparation of all materials, tools for work, as well as viewing some instructions and installation tips. The step-by-step process of replacing the communication system consists of:

1. Dismantling of old pipes (mainly from cast iron).
2. Elimination of partitions (if necessary) that interfere with repair manipulations.
3. Laying of new sewer fittings and their installation.
4. Connecting plumbing fixtures to a new sewer communication.

Necessary set of mounting materials and equipment

First of all, it is necessary to determine the raw materials used for the manufacture of pipes. It is possible to replace sewer pipes with plastic and cast iron products.

From plastic raw materials, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride is most common in the use, which is associated with their:

• relatively light weight, which facilitates their unloading and transportation.
• simple installation that does not require special tools.
• Good throughput due to their internal smoothness, which prevents the occurrence of possible blockages.

If you do not want to install plastic communications, the use of traditional materials is allowed. Today, the manufacture of cast iron fittings is carried out due to new technologies that provide the “insides” of pipes with a special coating that reduces the resistance of moving fluids. Modern socketless sewerage made of cast iron is characterized by simple installation due to clamp connections using elastic gaskets made of special rubber. Of course, the assembly of such a design will be more expensive, but providing durability.

Before replacing sewer pipes, it is necessary to think over the schematic layout of the new sewer communication, which can be an analogue of the old one or redesigned for plastic pipes. After drawing up the plan, you need to take care of the necessary materials:

• About PVC or polypropylene pipes having dimensions of 50-70 and 100-150 millimeters;
• About rubber connecting socket seals;
• About one-material fittings with pipes, the number and configuration of which is determined by the wiring diagram;
• About the Compensator (rubberized cuff) with a diameter of 110 millimeters, connecting plastic elements with cast iron;
• About clamps corresponding to pipes in size, due to which wall or other fastening of pipes is carried out;
• About a plastic branch pipe that creates a transition from a plastic pipe to a larger diameter pipe made of cast iron;
• About a semicircular mandrel, due to which the compensation pipe is lowered;
• About a chisel or hammer;
• About the pipe cutter and perforator;
• About plumb or level;
• About a pencil or marker for marking.
• About safety glasses.

Riser dismantling process

A pipe cutter is used to cut pipes, in its absence, a grinder. The circumference of the pipe lends itself to two horizontal cuts at a distance of about 20 centimeters, which should not be parallel, but connected at one point (letter "V"). It is not allowed to completely cut the pipe, which contributes to the subsidence of the upper riser and disk pinching. This can result in disc rupture and damage to the master. Having cut the pipes, it is necessary to drive a wedge into them, separating the section of the riser with its subsequent extraction. In its absence, vertical cuts are resorted to, preventing the resulting fragments from entering the sewer. Then the resulting area is broken with a screwdriver or chisel, the remains of which are removed with a hammer.

The next step in replacing sewer pipes is to cut its upper part at the required height. With this manipulation, a piece of the riser should be left for further pressing of the shaped element during installation. Guided by the proper length of the pipe, a cut is made along the circumference of the pipe using a grinder. For the formation of a perpendicular cut, it is advisable to use construction tape. The riser is broken with a hammer due to a sharp blow to the lower section of the pipe. The removal of the resulting "teeth" occurs through the use of a grinder with a grinding disc. Formed holes are closed by rags.

The process of removing the lower section of the old pipe

These manipulations begin by checking the connective strength of the sewer elements. To begin with, a careful buildup of the upper pipe section is performed, while maintaining the integrity of the lower socket. Even with a slight buildup, it is possible to extract loosened elements. With a slight reeling of the tee with the help of a nail puller or scrap, it is further loosened and dismantled. When installing the riser, the old tee is replaced with a new one.

With a rigidly set tee, it is necessary to qualitatively break the joint, accompanying this manipulation with its buildup. If possible, it is allowed to use a perforator with a thin drill installed on it with a missing victorious tip. Clearing the joint mortar must be done carefully, using a screwdriver or chisel. If these manipulations failed to remove the lower part of the riser, then you should use a grinder, which cuts off the cross at a distance of two centimeters from the pipe socket.

Installation process of a new sewerage system

When starting to replace sewer pipes at this stage, it is advisable to be guided by the following sequence:

1. Installation of a tee, for which a cuff or rubber gasket is inserted into the lower socket of a cast iron pipe.
2. Lubrication of the tee end with liquid soap to facilitate installation work.
3. Insertion into the socket of the cross. Linen winding or silicone sealant is used to ensure the connecting density.
4. Cutting the main plastic pipe of the required length with the removal of chamfers and irregularities with the help of sandpaper.

When forming a cast-iron-plastic joint, the assembly and the tee are placed at a distance of one centimeter from each other. Correct replacement communication is possible due to the use of sliding sleeves, rather than compensating pipes.

For wall mounting of the riser, the wall is subjected to holes, followed by fixing the pipes with clamps. If the distance for installation is insufficient, before manipulations, the wall is compacted with a 5-centimeter board, followed by the installation of fasteners. Such a board must undergo antiseptic treatment (linseed impregnation). The installation of the upper clamp should be close to the socket, and the lower one - to the shaped element of the expansion pipe. Stability can be achieved with three fasteners.

Before the final replacement of sewer pipes, a fitting assembly is carried out. Only after this is the disassembly and installation of the necessary rubber cuffs and gaskets. To facilitate assembly, the docking points are coated with liquid soap or shampoo. It is necessary to remember to tighten the upper fastening collar before lowering the branch pipe into the tee. At the same time, it must be supported by a semicircular mandrel, which serves for the pipe lowering.

After these manipulations, they proceed to clamping all the clamps and connecting the sewerage system, followed by checking the riser operation. The completion of the process of replacing sewer pipes consists in sewing up the riser to prevent the pipe from slipping from thermal fluctuations and “jumping” out of the tee.
It is necessary to remember about the correct use of sewers and the prevention of inadmissible objects entering them. After all, even after replacing unusable pipes modern materials will not have a positive effect.

How to change the sewer (fan) tee behind the toilet

Residential buildings of the Soviet and earlier eras are equipped mainly with cast iron sewer networks. Old houses with a Khrushchev-type layout have cast-iron pipelines and are designed for a standard service life of up to 70 years. In fact, the owners of five-story apartment buildings need to replace the sewer much earlier. The reason for this may be the repair work on the redevelopment of the apartment, capital or Maintenance requiring a general replacement of engineering networks in the apartment: water supply and repair of the sewer pipe in the apartment.

Changing the sewer line

Before changing the sewer pipes in the apartment, they outline a plan for dismantling.

Currently, an alternative pipeline for cast iron is PVC sewer pipeline. Phased replacement sewer pipes and the repair sequence consists of the following types of work:

1. Disconnecting plumbing fixtures from existing sewers. If it is planned to reuse household plumbing fixtures, then in this case it is recommended to dismantle it carefully and carefully in order to preserve the material. Old toilets were usually installed with a cement joint to the sewer pipe, so to remove it you have to break the joint with a hammer and clean it piece by piece;
2. Dismantling of existing horizontal sewer pipes made of cast iron;
3. Obsolete pipes can be dismantled with a heavy rubber mallet or a wooden sledgehammer. In some cases, with good preservation of pipelines during dismantling, an angle grinder circular saw with a diamond blade is used;
4. Dismantling of the existing sewer riser. At this stage, it is best for the owner of an apartment in a multi-storey building to ask the neighbors of the upper floors not to use the sewer. If the owners of the upper and lower apartments are not going to replace the common sewer riser, then in this case there is only one way out - using a grinder saw, carefully cut the existing riser at ceiling level at a distance of 100 mm from the ceiling and 80 mm from the floor level;
5. The upper and lower uneven cut lines of the cast-iron sewer riser are carefully cleaned with a grinder equipped with a stripping removable disk.

Important! Sewer repairs in the apartment are carried out with the obligatory observance of safety regulations and the use of personal protective equipment: goggles and respirators.

New sewer line

After the dismantling of the outdated cast-iron sewerage engineering networks from cast iron is completed, you can proceed with the installation of a new central drainage pipeline. Any sewerage scheme consists of such elements as:

• Central vertical drainage riser pipe 100 mm;
• Sewer tee with a diameter of 100 mm for connecting the toilet bowl of the bathroom;
• Drainage pipes with a diameter of 50 mm connected to the bathtub, sink, washbasin, dishwasher, washing machine.

The most crucial moment of repair work on the replacement of sewers is the installation of a new sewer riser.

Installation subtleties

Replacing sewerage in Khrushchev is carried out in the following order:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to caulk the existing openings of the sewer pipe with a lump of rolled-up polyethylene, which will prevent debris from entering the pipeline;
2. Special seals in the form of a cuff made of dense rubber are inserted into the upper and lower cuts of the existing pipeline. The surface of the rubber joints must be coated with silicone sealant. Such a protective measure eliminates the possibility of fluid leakage during the operation of domestic sewage;
3. After installing the seal, the next step is to install the main part of the sewer riser - an adapter with a diameter of 110 mm from PVC. The connecting fitting is mounted over the rubber seal in the upper and lower parts of the sewer riser. Connections must be airtight and tight;
4. The assembled sewer new riser with taps is installed strictly vertically and fixed on the wall with special clamps with a diameter of 100 mm. Fixing elements are attached to the wall with building plastic dowels. For a standard bathroom, three sewer riser mounts are enough.

After installing the main sewer pipeline, you can proceed with the installation of the vertical part of the drainage pipeline.

Dismantling the old tee

Replacing the sewer tee connecting the toilet to the horizontal drain pipe and the central riser is considered the most time-consuming work. In residential buildings of old construction, bathrooms are equipped with cast-iron tees, completely immured in monolithic concrete. Therefore, to dismantle and replace them, you will need to dismantle part of the floor. Another important problem of replacing this important element is the brittleness of cast iron during the dismantling of the sewer pipeline. One careless shock movement can lead to a chain reaction of destruction of the sewer riser going to the neighbors.

After installing a new polypropylene tee 100x100x100 mm in size, its holes are covered with a thick layer of silicone sealant to create a tight connection with a plastic sewer pipeline.

Installation of horizontal sewerage

After the assembly and installation of the central drainage pipeline, the replacement of the sewerage system in the apartment begins. Pipe sewer wiring to the points of connection of household appliances is made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and combines all elements of water disposal into a single home sewer network. To repair the sewer, straight plastic pipes and a variety of fittings are used.

Table of slopes and diameters of domestic sewers

plumbing fixture	slope	Distance between the central sewer riser and the siphon, mm	Horizontal pipeline diameter, mm
Bath	1:30	100-300	40-50
Shower	1:48	150-170	40-50
Toilet bowl	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40-50
Bidet	1:20	70-100	30-40
Washing	1:36	130-150	30-40
Sink with shower	1:48	170-230	50
Central drainage riser			100
Branches from the central sewer riser			65-75

Since the liquid drains by gravity in the sewer pipeline of the apartment, during installation, the sewer line must be laid with a slope to the riser. To solve this problem, you need to know the exact arrangement of plumbing fixtures and other elements of drainage.

Purpose of fan pipes

The fan pipe can be considered as a kind of ventilation hood of the central sewer riser.

In fact, it is a continuation of the sewer drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. So that they do not appear in the house sewer unpleasant odors and harmful gases did not accumulate, the upper part is placed above the level of the roof covering and goes directly into the air atmosphere. To protect against rain and snow, the fan pipe is covered from above with a protective cap in the form of a fungus.

Pipe repair instruction

Replacing the vent pipe is a necessary measure when general repair domestic sewer system. The simplified work plan consists of the following activities:

• dismantling of the old fan pipe;
• installation of a new structure.

In Khrushchev houses, fan pipes were installed from cast-iron pipes. The specific weight of 1 meter of a cast-iron sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is 25 kg. If we make a simple arithmetic calculation, then we can understand that when dismantling a 3-meter-long gray cast-iron fan pipe, the weight of the dismantled structure will be about 100 kg. Therefore, it is unsafe to carry out dismantling on your own, it is difficult to hold such a significant weight in your hands.

Replacing a drain pipe is similar to replacing a sewer riser. The only difference is that another vent portion of the pipe is added, extending beyond the roof structure.

Replacement of external sewerage

The problem of deterioration of external sewer communications often leads to serious accidents. Therefore, there is an urgent need for emergency emergency repairs. Many city dwellers are familiar with a similar picture: a partitioned off part of the street with a lot of earthmoving equipment and heaps of earth near an open pit. Replacing the sewer pipes of the external pipeline in an open way is associated with great inconvenience and difficulties. After all, often at the location of sewer pressure and non-pressure pipelines, other underground communications of water supply, electric power cables, and communications pass.

Alternative sewer replacement method

An alternative solution for open method repair of external pipelines is a trenchless sewer repair. In dense urban areas, this replacement method has gained its popularity due to obvious advantages:

• Reduction of production costs. With trenchless replacement, there is no need to use earth-moving equipment for excavation and removal of soil;
• Reduction of the duration of work on the replacement of sewerage;
• Sewer replacement is carried out by a small number of workers;
• To carry out the work, it is not required to issue a special permit - an order for earthworks;
• There is no risk of damage to other utilities. With the trenchless method, the new sewer pipeline line runs along the old route;
• The possibility of laying a pipeline of a larger diameter, which increases the capacity of the sewer;
• No interference with the movement of urban vehicles and pedestrians.

Trenchless replacement of sewers in urban areas makes it possible to quickly restore emergency sections of pressure sewers. What is the trenchless replacement method?

There are several types of trenchless replacement of sewer pipelines. The most popular is the laying of a new sewage system according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. Worn-out sewer pipes are replaced with special polyethylene pipes. For this work, special equipment is used - a pipe pulling device with a pneumatic drive. Repair work are carried from one sewer well to another. Modern technologies allow you to replace the external sewer pipeline of considerable length in two to three days.

Using the trenchless replacement method, it is possible to repair not only sewer networks, but also replace the water pipe line.

Video

In contact with

The tee is the most demanded shaped element. For a sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a particular type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace the sewer tee. This can be done on your own or with the help of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately be noted that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for various angles of connection to the sewer riser.

Installation of a plastic sewer tee and connection with a cast-iron pipe

The sewer cross is changed in such situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this part is already worn out to a large extent.

The reasons for replacing the crosspiece also include the impossibility of cleaning the sewer system in the event of serious deposits on the internal surfaces of the pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee, which connects the riser to the intra-apartment wiring, cracks or rots. Then you can not do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, on the product of which material to choose?

connection of plastic pipes with cast iron

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with the range of products available:

• cast iron tees have good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the compressive and tensile load, you should not be afraid that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average life of the product is about 25 years;
• The modern material for the manufacture of tees is considered to be polyvinyl chloride. Most of the plastic sewerage is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages are splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, while it has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewer, which has a multilayer structure and is characterized by a greater thickness. If there is a need to open the cast-iron riser, then it is more expedient to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of considerable importance, since it can vary greatly, which affects the family budget. For example, consider the need to replace a straight tee, the diameter of which is 110 mm, which has all the necessary bends. The cost of such an element can be increased one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased thickness of the surfaces. Of course, such parameters turn out to be attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When making a choice, you should know that a strong tee is more needed when the section located above it draws down, since it is precisely because of this that tees often crack. Please note that the cast iron product does not prevent subsidence, it only prevents it from quickly splitting.

plumbing plastic pipes in the bathroom

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, more durable and inexpensive plastic. Whether the material is PVC or PP does not really matter, because performance characteristics plastics are almost the same.

Tee Replacement

Sooner or later, the time comes when a sewer tee needs to be replaced, mounted under a bathtub or other plumbing fixture. To replace it yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• of the same diameter, you need to buy a compensating pipe;
• a rubber cuff is required to go from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Work should begin with fixing the pipe over the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, its subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• on the riser, you need to turn off the water, warning the neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet bowl is dismantled and the internal sewerage is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, while the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser must be pulled with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• it is impossible to allow such a clamp to slip through the pipe;
• the same clamp must be applied over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar for it until it stops;
• the clamp located above must be securely pulled to the armature.

installation of sewer pipes and their connection to the riser

Dismantling works

• Using a chisel or puncher, you need to beat off the concrete embedment for easy removal of the tee and socket that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely careful, because the sewer may become clogged due to pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser.
• Using a screwdriver and a light hammer, you need to dismantle the cement seal and the cable from the socket of the tee, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After that, a piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, only it is important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the socket located under it.

Installation work

To replace a cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic element, you need to follow a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clean the riser above the cut from dirt and old paint for the length of the socket;
• a simple purchased plastic clamp is placed directly under the incision. Its role is to keep the compensator from moving;
• then a compensating pipe should be pulled onto the cleaned section of the pipe. For ease of the process, you can treat the element with liquid or ordinary soap;
• using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• if the process is carried out correctly, the compensator should fit into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed with a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the toilet bowl is installed and the comb is connected.

connection of the sewer riser and plastic pipes

To perform the work, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating clutch;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves
• A 20 cm piece of pipe, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased work

• At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out. In advance, you need to ask the neighbors from above not to use the sewer for a while. It is easier if plumbing processes are performed on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for its correct cutting. To do this, you need to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the socket, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the method of welders. The pipe is wrapped with newspaper and the edge is evenly aligned. Further marking is performed along the entire circumference. You don’t need to cut right away, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to fix the riser to the wall, then they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the work area from impurities. And prevent a possible drain from forgetful neighbors. To do this, the cover of the viewing tee is unscrewed, then a condom is inserted into the part of the pipe located above this hole. It, as a rule, is put on in advance on the tip of the tube and tied with a thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie it. Performing such actions, you can save yourself from impurities for a while. Despite these precautions, work must be done quickly.
• At the last stage, the pipe is cut according to a pre-prepared markup. The upper area is deflected to the side to dismantle the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while a new cross is installed in its place. Now a compensator should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soapy solution to the sealing cuff of the compensator.

We can say that the main part of the work is done. After that, it is required to pierce the condom and screw the cover of the revision hole back on. If necessary, plugs are installed at the outlets of the cross or pipes are brought to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewer, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand that can be substituted while draining sewage.

For a better understanding, a question about replacing a tee without clarification is like asking "how much does food cost?".

I think it will be clearer, the food is different in the case of tees, everything is the same, even more difficult.

1) What floor do you live on? If the latter, the water can not be shut off, if the floors are lower, the cost of replacement includes shutting off the water.

2) What material is the tee made of? Replacing a propylene tee is not % but several times (!) Cheaper than replacing a cast iron tee.

3) Where is the tee located? Replacing a cast-iron tee under a standing sewer pipe is not possible without removing and replacing the toilet, especially if the toilet is installed on the solution.

It is also not possible to change only the tee. you will also have to change the riser vertical pipe.

4) What is the diameter of the tee? If 50-t,

That is a tee for internal sewerage wiring, replacing such a tee is an order of magnitude cheaper than replacing a 110 mm tee.

5) The condition of the sewer pipes (now I'm talking about cast iron)? The fact is that if the sewer pipes are in poor condition, the lateral caulking of the tee from the main pipe is not possible, it will simply crack.

6) How does the toilet go into the tee? If the toilet was installed in the USSR, then usually the neck was walled in forever, replacing a tee for a toilet = replacing a toilet with a tee.

7) Has the riser sewer pipe of the neighbors downstairs been changed? If yes, then when replacing the tee, no caulking is needed, the pipe in the ceiling changes and connects into one with the riser of your neighbors from the bottom, such work is cheaper.

These are just the main questions, without an answer to which even + - a kilometer is not possible to navigate the price.

What is the cost of replacing a sewer tee in Moscow

Replacing a standing sewer pipe, the city of Moscow (along with a tee, of course, but without installing a toilet) the price of the work is 4,000 rubles. Riser pipe and tee, 110 mm in diameter.

Replacement of internal sewer wiring (pipe 50 mm) 3,500 rubles.

One point, a pipe diameter of 50 mm, the cost is 1,000 rubles.

At the end, not much information from personal experience: A large firm will not take on small work, if they do, the price will be exorbitant.

There is no fixed price for many types of work, repairs, the condition of the customer's pipes, the number of storeys, and so on, all this is very individual, the foreman knows how much he earns per hour (on average) looks at the amount of work (not standard, refers to the standard , replacing a riser, installing a toilet bowl, and so on) estimates how long it will take him to do this work and names the price.

There is a fixed minimum price, for small and very small work (change the gasket, tighten the nut, and so on).

Just call the plumbers and describe the situation as accurately as possible (for example, replacing the tee that includes the toilet, or replacing the tee under the sink, and so on) there are no other options at all.

A tee is one of the most sought-after types of styles. On sale you can find products for sewerage made of cast iron from several types of plastic. On which of them to choose?

And most importantly - how is the sewer tee replaced? Let's figure it out.

Material selection

So, given: the tee connecting the sewer riser to your intra-apartment wiring is cracked or rotten. It needs to be replaced. What is the best choice to make?

First, let's get acquainted with what we have to choose from.

• The main advantage of cast iron is its exceptional mechanical strength.. He is only afraid of shock loads; compressive or tensile load will not cause deformation or chipping. The service life can be estimated at 25 years or more.
• Polyvinyl chloride is the most popular material. 80 - 90% of plastic sewage is currently made from it. The service life is at least 50 years; the material is moderately plastic, is afraid of impacts and breaks under significant loads.
• Polypropylene is somewhat lighter than PVC; at the same time, it has greater rigidity, thermal and wear resistance. Service life does not differ from PVC.

Please note: on sale you can find the so-called silent plastic sewer. It has a multilayer structure and increased thickness. If a cast-iron riser, which perfectly muffles the sound, opens with a plastic tee, it is better to stop on a silent tee.

How does the current cost of materials compare? Yes, the difference in the cost of fashion in any case will not harm the family budget, but it is still interesting to correlate the costs in each of the cases.

As a researcher, we will serve exactly what needs to be replaced - a straight tee with all branches with a diameter of 110 mm.

The notorious multilayer structure and increased wall thickness can increase the cost of plastic fittings by 1.2 - 1.5 times.

Now let's think about the choice.

It seems that strength is an undoubted advantage, for which you can overpay a couple of hundred rubles.

Only now the strength of the tee will be in demand only when the section of the riser above it draws down. Actually, it is this drawdown that most often leads to a crack in the tee.

Note: in this case, the cast-iron style will not prevent subsidence, it will only prevent the mass of the riser from quickly splitting it.

If so, we prefer light, cheap and durable plastic. Which one - PVC or PP - is purely a matter of personal preference. As we have already found out, the performance of plastics in our case is almost the same.

Replacement

It seems that a kitchen or a sewerage system mounted under a bathroom - a 50-50-50 tee through which drains are drained from a bathtub or washbasin - will not require any special skills to replace. Let's focus on how to replace the tee in the riser with your own hands.

We will need:

• Actually a tee.
• Compensating pipe of the same diameter.
• Rubber cuff - an adapter from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Lifting and fixing the riser

Start with a secure fix.

Otherwise, its subsidence after dismantling part of the riser will lead to a leak from the ceiling or collapse of the seal of the mounting hole.

1. We turn off the water in the riser and warn the neighbors about the upcoming work.
2. We remove the toilet bowl and disconnect the comb (internal sewerage).

In the photo - the dismantling of the comb and outlet to the toilet.

1. At a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor, we drill a hole in the wall behind the riser, as close as possible to it, with a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
2. We drive a piece of 10 mm smooth reinforcement into it.
3. We tighten the riser with a thick wire a couple of centimeters below the reinforcement. An impromptu clamp should not slip through the pipe.
4. We put another similar clamp directly above the tee and, using a lever (crowbar or pipe), lift the pipe by this clamp until it stops.
5. Securely tighten the top clamp to the armature.

Dismantling

1. With a chisel or perforator, we beat off the concrete embedment, freeing the tee and the socket under it.

Attention: pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser can become.

1. With a screwdriver, using a light hammer, we remove the cement seal from the socket of the tee and, if possible, the cable.
2. We cut the riser at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, from the socket under the tee. We make another cut 10 cm lower and remove a piece of pipe.
3. By turning the tee manually or with a gas wrench, we remove it and clean the socket under it.

Installation

What does it look like to replace a cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic one?

1. The riser above the cut to the length of the compensator socket is cleaned of paint and debris.
2. A collar is installed directly under the cut - ordinary, plastic, from the store. He has to keep the compensator from shifting.
3. The compensating pipe is pulled over the cleaned section of the pipe. As a lubricant, you can use ordinary or liquid soap.
4. The tee is inserted into the socket of the riser by means of a rubber cuff.