The clutch is one of the main components of a car's transmission. Thanks to him, gears are switched, loads are removed from the engine and vibrations are damped. The quality of driving depends on its correct adjustment. The article describes the device of the node, its functions, the principle of operation, recommendations are given on how to adjust the clutch.

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The structure and function of the clutch

The link between the engine and the transmission is the clutch. Its purpose is to disconnect and connect the input shaft of the gearbox from the crankshaft flywheel. In cars with manual transmission, gears are switched only when the clutch pedal (PS) is fully depressed. At this point, there is no connection between the flywheel and the gearbox, and no torque is transmitted.

This vehicle assembly consists of the following components:

1. Flywheel. This element takes over the torque and transmits it through the basket to the gearbox. The basket is attached to the flywheel.
2. Driven and pressure disk. These details are closely related. Their contact depends on the position of the PS located in the passenger compartment.
3. Shutdown fork. With its help, the disks are separated.
4. Gearbox input shaft. Torque is transmitted to this element.

Vehicle assembly design

These are the main details. In addition to them, the node includes:

• damper springs softening vibration;
• casing;
• friction linings, dressed on the driven disk to mitigate friction between the flywheel and the basket.

The pressure plate is interconnected with the flywheel and constantly rotates with it. To transmit rotation in the driven disk there is a splined clutch into which the input shaft of the gearbox is inserted.

Gear shifting is carried out through the pedal as follows:

• the release fork is pressurized through the drive system;
• fork pushes forward release bearing and its clutch to the release springs of the pressure plate;
• under the pressure of the foot bearing (release springs), the baskets disconnect it for a while from the flywheel;
• after switching speeds, the pedal is released, the bearing stops pressing on the springs and the basket contacts the flywheel again.

Nodes can be single-disk or multi-disk. Multi-disk nodes are usually installed on automatic boxes.

Scheme and adjustment of the drive

The following types of drives can be installed on cars:

• mechanical;
• hydraulic;
• electrical.

To mechanical transmission has served longer, it is necessary to smoothly release the pedal when shifting gears.

When is clutch adjustment necessary?

Clutch adjustment is carried out periodically. Over time, the pedal travel increases and the shutdown does not occur completely. Thus, when the PS is pressed to the maximum, the shafts are not completely turned off, and they remain in contact with the engine, which increases the load on the teeth and reduces the service life of the unit.

If the PS is not free enough, the driven disk does not turn on completely. As a result, when driving, not all the torque is transmitted, in which case the car loses power. In addition, even with a smooth release of the PS, the driven disk may turn on abruptly, and noise will be heard in the transmission, the machine will twitch.

It is possible to diagnose that adjustment is required by the following signs:

• jerks or bumps at the beginning of the movement;
• PS sinks;
• the PS has insufficient free play;
• there is a fluid leak from the drive system;
• appears extraneous noise when shifting gears.

Determining the need for PS regulation is simple. It is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the pedal, it should be approximately 16 centimeters.

Practical Guide to Adjustment

The mechanical clutch is controlled by its actuator. For this in engine compartment you should find a cable at the end of which there is a bolt with a lock nut. Turning the adjusting nut, you need to ensure that the free play of the pedal is 12-13 cm. To increase the stroke of the PS, the nut should be tightened, to reduce the stroke, the nut must be unscrewed. Then you should press the PS three times and measure the distance between the pedal and the floor. Clutch adjustment is carried out until the required distance is reached.

Adjusting the drive cable

If the procedure is performed after replacing the unit, then it is necessary to check that there is no air in the hydraulic drive system. If it is present, it must be removed by purging the system.
The essence of regulation is to establish the necessary clearances between the rod and the piston of the master cylinder of the assembly. In addition, the necessary distances between the friction ring of the pressure plate and the release bearing are set.

In order to adjust hydraulic drive, remove the spring from the master cylinder bracket and yoke. Next, you should measure the gaps between the pusher and the release fork. This distance should be approximately 5 mm. By unscrewing or tightening the adjusting nut on the cylinder rod, it is necessary to achieve that the free play of the fork is 5 mm.

This procedure is carried out on simple systems and is given as an example. There are other clutch drive systems. To properly adjust the assembly, it is better to refer to the car's operating instructions. The quality of the movement of the car depends on the correct adjustment.

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General information

Tightening torques for threaded connections, N m

Bolt of fastening of a pedal to an arm..... 25–35

Bolt of fastening of the main cylinder to an arm of a pedal..... 17–26

Union nut for fastening the pipeline ..... 13–17

Pipe holder.....4–6

Bolt of fastening of the working cylinder..... 15–22

Hollow bolt for fastening the pipeline to the working cylinder ..... 25

Bolts of fastening of a casing of coupling..... 15–22

Nut of fastening of a pusher of the main cylinder to a pedal..... 9–14

Nut of fastening of the switch of blocking of ignition..... 8–10

Technical specifications

Clutch drive type	Hydraulic
Driven clutch disc	Dry, diaphragmatic
Outer/inner diameter of driven disk, mm	215/145
Clutch cover assembly with pressure plate	With diaphragm pressure spring
Inner diameter: Working cylinder, mm Main cylinder, mm	20,64 15,57

Data for checks and adjustments

Clutch drive type	Hydraulic
Driven plate thickness (free) mm: Engines 1.3; 1.5 and 1.6 l Engine 1.1L	8.5±0.3 8.0±0.3
Clutch pedal free travel, mm	6-13
Clutch pedal height above the floor, mm	160,7
Clutch pedal travel, mm
Clearance between the working cylinder and the piston, mm	0,15
Clearance between the main cylinder and the piston, mm	0,15

Applicable lubricants

Place of application	Name
Fork contact surface with clutch release bearing	CASMOLY L9508
Inner surface of the clutch release bearing	CASMOLY L9508
The mirror of the working cylinder, the outer surface of the piston and the cuff	Brake fluid DOT-3 or DOT-4
Clutch disc splines	CASMOLY L9508
Mirror of the main cylinder and the outer surface of the piston	Brake fluid DOT-3 or DOT-4
Master cylinder tappet, pusher pin and washer	Wheel Bearing Grease SAE J310a, NLGI No.2
Clutch pedal axle and bushings	SAE J310a Chassis Lubricant, NLGI-No.1
The contact surface of the clutch release fork with the pusher of the working cylinder	CASMOLY L9508

Removal and installation of the clutch and its drive

The clutch and its drive are shown in rice. 3.1.

Removal of air from the hydraulic clutch

Bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive should be carried out every time the connecting pipe, hose and / or master cylinder is removed, and also in the case when the clutch pedal becomes “soft”.

Loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder ( rice. 3.2).

Slowly depress the clutch pedal fully until fluid stops flowing out.

While holding the pedal down, tighten the bleed screw.

Top up to the normal level in the reservoir with the required brand of fluid.

Clutch Master Cylinder

The clutch master cylinder is shown in rice. 3.3.

Withdrawal

Drain working fluid through the bleeder valve.

Loosen the master cylinder nut ( rice. 3.4).

Disconnect the hydraulic clutch pipes and hoses.

Remove the clamp securing the pipeline to the gearbox ( rice. 3.5).

Check the hose and piping for corrosion, pitting or burrs.

Installation

Connect the pipeline to the working cylinder.

Attach the flexible hose and secure it with a clamp ( rice. 3.6).

Install the master cylinder.

Attach pushrod to clutch pedal.

Bleed the hydraulic clutch.

Disassembly

Remove the piston retaining ring.

Remove the pusher assembly with the piston, while being careful not to damage the body and piston of the cylinder.

Check the cylinder bore for corrosion, pitting and scuffing.

Check the cylinder sleeve for wear or misalignment.

Check the piston for corrosion, pitting or scoring.

Check the cleanliness of the pipeline.

Check the inner diameter of the cylinder with a bore gauge and with a micrometer outside diameter piston.

If the clearance between the piston and the cylinder exceeds the limit allowable size(0.15 mm), replace the master cylinder or piston.

Assembly

Apply DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid to the cylinder bore and piston outer surface.

Insert the piston into the cylinder.

Install the piston retaining ring.

Install pusher.

Connect the hose to the cylinder body.

clutch pedal

The clutch pedal and its mounting bracket are shown in rice. 3.7.

Withdrawal

Remove the cotter pin and washer ( rice. 3.8).

Loosen the pedal mounting bolts ( rice. 3.9).

Checking the technical condition

Check the following:

– an axis and the plug of a pedal on existence of wear;

– Clutch pedal for bending and warping;

– a return spring on existence of damage or easing;

– Pedal pad for damage or wear;

- the height of the pedal above the floor A (from the outer surface of the pedal platform to the floor) ( rice. 3.10 ). It should be 160.7 mm.

If the pedal height above the floor is not correct, adjust it as follows.

1. Adjust the pedal height with the bolt, then tighten the locknut.

2. Rotate the pusher to adjust its length to the new pedal height ( rice. 3.11 ), then fasten the pusher with a nut.

After completing the adjustment, check that the clutch pedal free play (measured from the surface of the pedal pad) is between 6-13mm ( rice. 3.12).

If the free play of the clutch pedal does not correspond to the norm, it means that air has entered the hydraulic drive or the master cylinder is faulty. Bleed the hydraulic drive and check the master cylinder or clutch.

Checking the ignition switch. Check the continuity of the electrical circuit between the contacts of the switch ( rice. 3.13).

Installation

Apply multipurpose grease at the points indicated by the arrows on the rice. 3.14.

Tighten nuts ( rice. 3.9).

Install the clutch pedal pin.

Clutch cover and driven disc

The clutch cover and driven disc are shown in rice. 3.15.

Withdrawal

Drain the clutch fluid and oil from the gearbox housing.

Remove a transmission (see subsection "Gearbox").

Insert Drift 09411-25000 into the driven disc hub hole to prevent it from falling off.

Loosen the bolts securing the clutch cover to the flywheel in a criss-cross pattern.

Unscrew the bolts alternately, one or two turns each time, to prevent warping of the casing flange ( rice. 3.16).

Checking the technical condition

Clutch cover.Check the ends of the diaphragm spring petals for wear and height differences.

Check pressure plate surface for wear, cracks and discoloration.

Check for loose rivets and replace clutch cover if necessary.

Slave disk. Check friction linings for loose rivets, uneven fit, damage from sticking, oil or grease build-up. If necessary, replace the damaged driven disk.

Check the free thickness of the driven disk ( rice. 3.17).

Check disc springs for play and damage, replace defective disc if necessary.

Clear splines of a primary shaft of a transmission and establish a conducted disk.

If it is difficult to move the disc along the splines of the shaft or if there is excessive clearance, replace the driven disc and / or the input shaft of the gearbox.

Clutch release bearing.Check the clutch release bearing for binding, damage or excessive noise. Check the contact points of the diaphragm spring with the bearing race for wear.

Replace the bearing in case of severe wear of the contact points with the clutch release fork.

Clutch release fork.Replace the clutch release fork if it is heavily worn where it contacts the clutch release bearing.

Installation

Apply multipurpose grease to the release fork where it contacts the release bearing and slave cylinder.

Apply lubricant (ref. rice. 3.18).

Apply multipurpose grease to the clutch release bearing groove.

Apply CASMOLY L9508 multipurpose grease to the release fork where it contacts the release lever axle.

Thoroughly clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate with fine-grained sandpaper and check that there are no traces of oil or grease on them.

Apply a small amount of CASMOLY L9508 Multipurpose Grease to the splines of the driven disc hub and transmission input shaft.

Using drift 09411-25000, install the driven plate on the flywheel with the factory marked side towards the pressure plate.

Install the clutch cover on the flywheel and screw in the six mounting bolts.

Tighten the bolts crosswise to 15–22 Nm. Tighten the bolts alternately, one or two turns each time, to prevent warping of the clutch housing flange.

Remove the mandrel to center the driven disk.

Establish a transmission (subsection "Gearbox" see).

Adjust the clutch pedal free play.

Clutch slave cylinder

Withdrawal

Disconnect the connecting pipeline from the working cylinder.

Loosen the slave cylinder bolt ( rice. 3.20).

Checking the technical condition

Check the slave cylinder for signs of fluid leakage.

Check the slave cylinder boot for damage.

Disassembly

Disconnect the connecting hose from the cylinder, remove the valve plate, spring, pusher and cover.

Carefully remove the dirt around the bore of the working cylinder under the piston.

Remove the piston from the cylinder with a jet compressed air directed to the cylinder ( rice. 3.20).

Increase the air pressure gradually to prevent brake fluid from escaping and getting into your eyes or on your skin.

Checking the technical condition

Check the slave cylinder mirror for corrosion or damage.

Using a bore gauge, check the cylinder bore in three places (bottom, middle, and top). If the clearance between the piston and the cylinder exceeds the limit, replace the working cylinder.

The maximum allowable clearance between the piston and the cylinder is 0.15 mm.

Assembly

Apply the correct brand of brake fluid to the inner surface of the working cylinder and the outer surface of the piston and piston collar, and install the piston in the cylinder.

Liquid used: brake fluid DOT-3 or DOT-4.

Installation

Install the valve plate, tappet and boot.

Lubricate the pushrod axle with CASMOLY L9508.

Install the clutch slave cylinder and connect the pipeline to it.

Install the slave cylinder bolts ( rice. 3.21).

Useful information and tips

Causes of clutch slipping or incomplete disengagement when pressing the pedal

Clutch slip is manifested in the fact that with a completely serviceable engine, the car does not overcome climbs well, accelerates slowly. This can be caused by oiling or severe wear of the discs, a decrease in the elasticity of the springs, or a lack of free play in the clutch pedal.

Incomplete disengagement of the clutch causes difficulty and noise when shifting gears and can lead to premature failure of the synchronizers and accelerated wear of the transmission teeth. This malfunction most often occurs when the discs are dirty, warped or deformed, the position of the release levers is incorrectly adjusted, or the clutch pedal is too free to play.

It should be borne in mind that the noise in the gearbox is not always the result of incomplete disengagement of the clutch. Noise can be caused by worn or misaligned bearings, worn or misaligned bevel gears. A strong knock in the indicated places indicates the presence of a serious malfunction that requires the immediate stop of the car and the repair of the unit.

Causes of difficult gear shifting or their spontaneous shutdown

Difficult gear shifting or spontaneous disengagement is the result of wear on the locks and latches or the gear shift drive. There is no need for a major overhaul here.

You can prevent such malfunctions in the following ways: periodically carefully check the reliability of fastening of all units and parts of the power transmission, monitor the oil level in the gearbox and change it in a timely manner.

Good day, dear motorists! Agree, it's nice when everything in the car works, when all the levers and pedals perform their functions. We simply forget about this or that pedal until we feel that pressing it is not the way it always is.

It is to this question, how to adjust the clutch pedal, that we will devote our time. It turns out that adjusting the clutch pedal does not require higher education and qualifications of a car mechanic. That is, you can completely handle this with your own hands.

When is Clutch Adjustment Needed?

Using the example of a clutch on the “classic”, we will try to understand the technology for adjusting the clutch drive. Why do you need clutch adjustment? The fact is that if the adjustment of the clutch drive is not carried out on time, then this can lead to repair or replacement of the clutch.

A large clutch pedal stroke causes the clutch to partially disengage, and the clutch disc is still in contact with the engine flywheel.

Small pedal travel, does not turn on the fully driven disk, slippage occurs, i.e. torque loss.

How to correctly diagnose clutch operation

As always, we turn to people's experience. You will need a ruler. But, to measure the pedal travel, you will start when the behavior of the car tells you about it, at or when the movement starts.

When trying to start smoothly, jerks or bumps occur, noise when shifting into gear or the clutch pedal sinks - these are signs that clutch adjustment is required.

In addition, you can independently conduct a diagnostic test of the clutch operation. For this you need a little. Start the engine, slowly release the clutch pedal and move off.

If the movement begins immediately, as you began to release the clutch pedal, then this indicates the absence of free play. If the car does not move even with the clutch pedal fully released, it means that the pedal travel is more than normal.

Using a ruler, measure the distance from the floor to the rubber lining on the pedals. The norm is 160 mm. if the distance is higher, then it is necessary to adjust the clutch actuator.

How to adjust the clutch

We will bring it into working condition by adjusting the clutch drive, or more precisely, the adjusting bolt. At the end of the cable (in the engine compartment), there is a bolt that is locked.

By turning the adjusting nut, it is necessary to adjust the clutch pedal travel so that it is 120 -130 mm. To increase the pedal stroke - we tighten the nut on the tip, to reduce the pedal stroke, unscrew the nut.

After adjustment, it is necessary to press the clutch pedal 3 times, and again measure the distance from the floor to the pedal platform. If necessary, continue adjusting the clutch until you reach the desired pedal travel distance.

Adjustment hydraulic clutch produced in the following way. The total length from the push rod to the release fork must be within 5 mm. Remove the spring from the bracket of the working cylinder and fork.

By unscrewing or tightening the adjusting nut on the cylinder rod so that the free play of the fork is 5 mm.

Important! We have given you examples of clutch adjustment on classic models. Not the fact that your car parameters can be the same. Therefore, when starting to adjust the clutch on your car, first read the manufacturer's maintenance and repair manual.

Good luck with your DIY clutch adjustment.

Withdrawal

1. Remove cotter pin and washer.

2. Turn out bolts of fastening of a pedal of coupling.

Examination

1. Check the axle and clutch pedal bush for wear.

2. Check up a coupling pedal on absence of a bend and deformation.

3. Check the return spring for damage and loss of elasticity.

4. Check the clutch pedal pad for damage and wear.

5. Check the height of the pedal installation above the floor (from the outer surface of the pedal platform to the floor).

Nominal installation height of the clutch pedal A, mm: 160.7

6. If the pedal height above the floor is not correct, adjust it as follows:

Bolt adjust the height of the pedal, then tighten the locknut.

Attention

After adjustment, tighten the bolt until it touches the pedal stop, then tighten the locknut.

Rotate the pusher to adjust its length to the new pedal height, then secure the pusher with a nut.

Attention

When adjusting the installation height or free play of the clutch pedal, be careful not to move the push rod towards the clutch master cylinder.

7. Press the clutch pedal with your hand until you feel resistance and measure the amount of free play.

Clutch pedal free travel (B): 6–13 mm

8. If the clutch pedal free play is not correct, there may be air in the hydraulic actuator or the clutch master cylinder is faulty. Bleed the hydraulic drive and check the master cylinder or clutch.

Examination switch blocking ignition

Check the continuity of the electrical circuit between the contacts of the switch.

Installation

1. Apply multipurpose grease in the areas indicated by the arrows in the figure.