The idea itself was read from motorcycle magazines. In them I saw that it was possible to buy a tracked engine and convert an ordinary motorcycle into some kind of homemade snowmobile. And since it is possible to convert a motorcycle into a snowmobile with your own hands, then why not try doing the same with a scooter.

At the very beginning I had an idea as caterpillar engine use part of a regular “Buranovskaya” caterpillar (photo 1). But I couldn’t find the old track from the Buran snowmobile, and I didn’t buy a new one - it’s expensive to buy a whole one just for one quarter of the track.

I had to contact a specialized company and buy a rubber track from them, and even a plastic ski.

In the pre-thought-out and verified design of the scooter and at the same time the snowmobile, the main thing was that the scooter in warm weather should remain a scooter and only become a snowmobile only in winter. That is, the process of converting a scooter into a snowmobile and back should be very simple - remove the ski and tracks and put the wheels back.

I don’t have a milling machine or a lathe, so I used all the components and parts either ready-made, store-bought, or those that you can make with your own hands using ordinary tools and.

In a store that sells snowmobiles, I bought a drive sprocket, again from a Buran. We also had to buy wheels from a children's scooter, and two wheels with bearings from a garden cart.

Now for the power of a snowmobile scooter.

In the scooter's transmission, the gear ratio allows for movement on asphalt at speeds from 40 to 60 kilometers per hour.

It is absolutely clear that when driving on a snowy road, the load on the engine immediately increases, and it may well be that its power is not enough. In addition, “flying” through snow and ice at such a speed is dangerous. Therefore, the gear ratio had to be changed by replacing drive wheel scooter with a smaller wheel, from a kart.

To make such changes to the design, from an unusable moped rim I cut a drum (with splines) for the drive shaft. And I drilled holes in it that will help secure a smaller disk in it. The result is shown in photo No. 2.

The problem with the caterpillar sliding off the wheel and its possible slippage was solved this way: I made it with my own hands from ordinary plastic pipes for a hook. In subsequent assembly, they will fit into the tracks of the snowmobile scooter. They can be seen in photo No. 3.

Since it is very difficult to choose a tire with a circumference suitable for the number of steps on the track, I had to do the following.

I made a kind of bandage of the required length from a metal strip. Then I marked equal distances on it corresponding to the step on the caterpillar and attached the previously made hooks from plastic pipes to them. To attach the hooks to the metal, I used M6 bolts. (Photo No. 4) . Then I secured the bandage to the wheel with the same M6 bolts. The result is visible in photo No. 5.

Thus, with my own hands I made a kind of soft sprocket, which will be the leading sprocket for the sprocket of a homemade snowmobile scooter.

The following design was made as a driven sprocket - the drive sprocket from Buran was fastened with M8 bolts to the wheels from the garden cart equipped with bearings, which I mentioned above. I used a threaded rod M10 as an axis. The design can be seen in photo No. 10.

Snowmobile scooter frame.

The frame was made from metal pipes and corners (Photo No. 7)

The frame is made with arbitrary dimensions - it all depends on the length and width of the track you choose and the size of your scooter.

As I mentioned above, I had to buy a plastic ski for the winter scooter - making it with your own hands would take too much time and effort, and it is not expensive. In principle, if you wish, you can, of course, do without buying it and just make a wooden one with your own hands, and it’s definitely worth equipping it with a metal skate so that the scooter can be better controlled when moving in the snow.

I attached the ski to the moped fork using a homemade stand (photo 17-18), for greater safety the left and right side the forks operate independently (i.e. they have two degrees of freedom of movement). With this design our homemade snowmobile can turn in any direction and the ski will not rise, but will remain the entire plane on the surface of the snow.

The plastic body of the scooter becomes very fragile in the cold; moreover, its design is equipped with pockets into which snow gets packed, which increases the weight of the snowmobile scooter, and therefore reduces power when moving.

For winter, the casing was kept minimal. It will be located only above the caterpillar, but a large platform is needed so that there is somewhere to put your feet in oversized winter shoes, and for decoration, I wanted to make a shield to install it on the fork of a snowmobile, which can easily be equipped with a windshield for traveling long distances or in the wind and snow.

In principle, making a casing for installation on a caterpillar with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to make a template for fiberglass (matrix).

To do this, from polycarbonate, which is increasingly used for, or plexiglass, or the like. materials (as long as they are of comparable sizes), first cut out the sidewall (Photo No. 19)

We turn it over and place it on a large sheet - it will be the wall of the template. Then we use hot glue to secure the plastic corners around the perimeter of the side wall.

Next we need a strip of flexible plastic. Its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the casing being manufactured.

Now we proceed to assembling the template (matrix), for which we secure the panel, bottom and prepared sidewall with glue. We seal the joints using plasticine. The template for making the casing is ready.

Now cut the fiberglass, and coat the pieces of fiberglass with epoxy and place it on the template.

After 24 hours, disassemble the template, cut off the excess fiberglass, paint it, and the casing for your homemade snowmobile scooter is ready.

The platform for the feet was made in exactly the same way, with one exception - I added silver pieces to the epoxy for decorative purposes.

The main work is done - all that remains is to put everything together and homemade scooter-snowmobile made with your own hands is ready.

Do-it-yourself snowmobile scooter - photo for article

Of course, for driving on very deep snow our homemade snowmobile scooter is unsuitable, the power and width of the track in it is still not the same - it will “burrow in” - keep this in mind if you assemble your own version of a snowmobile scooter with your own hands.

But on the road or in snow with a depth of up to 15 centimeters, such a homemade “winter” scooter walks very confidently and can even tow a small load behind it.

In the spring, it’s easy to make an all-terrain vehicle from a snowmobile converted from a scooter, for which you remove the ski and install a wheel.

Homemade snowmobile from a scooter - photo

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“If something is worth doing, then only what is considered impossible.” Oscar Wilde

On this “skeleton” I went for spare parts. And then I heard: “It looks like the scooter is stolen if it’s all without lining!” And... he looks like the Terminator.” I remember the phrase about the Terminator. I arrived home and realized that I would not return the original plastic to him. I wanted to do something completely unusual in the style of unforgettable Hollywood characters. Later, another idea appeared - to create something similar to a motorcycle, but with the original transmission - a sort of scooter. But for this you need to redo the frame and the entire layout! Spent a lot of time thinking. One evening I watched Predator on TV. And it dawned on me - this is what I need! And away we go...
I remembered the skill of a welder - this is how a frame a la Ducati’s “birdcage” appeared - not only beautiful, but also durable. There was no special skill, but there were enough tools. Laser pointers and even a rotary laser level were used. Every detail I made with my own hands was a struggle, because there was nothing to take measurements from, and sometimes I myself didn’t know what it would look like.
There was a time when I earned my living by making art products from plaster and concrete - it came in handy: I ​​sculpted a Predator mask from plasticine and made a multi-piece mold from it from plaster. Then he laid glass mats impregnated with polyester resin into it. The same goes for all cladding elements. I decided to make the tank also fiberglass, and installed a copper grid in the walls to remove static electricity. Later, the tank and seat were combined into a single part to reduce the number of fasteners and ease of dismantling.
I was haunted by the standard rear suspension- Well, it didn’t look good in the new layout, there was no “airiness” and “openness” in it. I had to make an adapter that simultaneously played the role rear wing and was a support for a monoshock absorber, like the Italjet Dragster 50. Oh, and I suffered with it!
The rear suspension adapter is asymmetrical, of complex shape, welded from metal 3 mm thick. First, I made a mock-up of the adapter from cardboard, then I marked the mounting points to the scooter “leg” - the transmission. For rigidity and reliability, I used the maximum possible number of attachment points - on the left (in the direction of travel) I used the upper bolts of the variator cover and two free points (after dismantling the starter, which I refused without regret, fortunately it starts “with half a kick”), as well as a powerful “point” ”, freed from the dismantling of the original shock absorber. On the right are two mounting points for the exhaust pipe, I also used them. I specially supplemented the adapter with small stiffening ribs.
I found a monoshock absorber at a scooter parts store. But the point of its lower attachment had to be tinkered with. The lower “ear” of the VAZ shock absorber was suitable for it. Having pressed out the old silent block, I welded the ear to the adapter, reinforced it with gussets and pressed in a new one. I made the upper mount to the frame with the possibility of “adjustment” - I drilled several pairs of holes, and during the ride I chose the optimal position. The monoshock really changed the look of the scooter. At one time I even wanted to give up the idea of ​​​​the Predator image and make a naked one. But the problem is that there is nothing to expose: there is simply no engine in the usual “motorcycle” place.
The hood turned out to be voluminous, so the musical guts - a Pioneer receiver, electrics and a 20 Ah battery - were sent to where they had previously placed their feet. From above, all this is closed with a lid into which Alpine speakers are embedded. It’s gratifying that there was room for music on such a little thing! The control of the receiver using a computer cable was moved to the steering wheel, and the panel from the receiver was also moved there.
I installed it under the tank and belly LED backlight, and made the headlight eyes bright orange and extraterrestrially aggressive. The tail of the “Predator” is metal, the frame is made of thin pipes and sheathed with thin (1 mm) metal. I did this for rigidity, since it is convenient to move the bike by the tail.
I didn’t touch the engine, I just removed the carbon deposits and polished the purge windows, because I was making the engine for my daughter, and she still doesn’t need the power. Air filter connected via an extension cord and hidden inside the frame. This is a necessary measure - a step is located in its regular place.
I painted the bike with paint with a “hammer” effect, and many people bought it: “How much does it weigh if it’s all metal?” But the weight increased slightly (from 68 to 75 kg), mainly due to the battery and music. But since these weights are located low, the bike has become very stable, which is convenient when stopping at traffic lights - you hardly have to expose your legs.
This small (length 1500, width 610, seat height 750 mm) alien hunter will not get lost anywhere, and not because of the lighting - it is on every palm tree, flower bed and bush, and not because of the music - it is from every car, but will not be lost because it is unique.
And the phrase about the Terminator doesn’t leave me alone. Making an iron Terminator with a red eye and a naked skeleton is too easy. But “Liquid Terminator”...
What do I need? A scooter, a cast iron pot and a large iron spoon...

This is my first attempt to make a simple scooter something unusual. It's a shame I didn't start doing this earlier.

There are replicas of the Predator theme - a lot of helmets and a couple of bikes, but there is no such Predator, and even one made from a “hole”.

sludge aggregate	Engine 3KJ (Yamaha Aprio), variator and belt Malossi, Tecnigas release.
Chassis	Frame based on Yamaha Aprio, rear suspension with central shock absorber, fiberglass (5 l) gas tank, cast wheels (China), Pirelli tires.
Other	Modified mountain bike handlebar, fiberglass lining, LED lights and a brake light. Audio system: Pioneer receiver, Alpine speakers.
Project budget	About 60 thousand rubles (with a “donor”).

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Is it possible to make a simple winter moped that could become not only entertainment, but also an assistant for those who live in villages and towns? “Such a moped could also be used for snow removal,” writes Slava Polkovoy from the Pskov region, “after all, after a snowfall, you spend hours clearing debris near your house.”

Indeed, why not? After all, a good help is two horsepower, enclosed in the cylinder of a moped engine. If you make a motorized tractor with such a motor, it will help you not only remove snow from the paths with a simple plow, but also take it on a sleigh to a designated place.

So, a winter moped. You will need the following purchased components and assemblies: engine type V-50 (or Sh-58 - Sh-62) with the necessary equipment: carburetor, air filter, ignition coil; front fork from “Verkhovyna”, “Riga” or “Karpaty”; rear pendulum fork from any moped; a shock absorber from a Minsk or Voskhod motorcycle, as well as a plastic canister with a capacity of about two liters and a fuel tap with a sump. In addition - a steering wheel with a control handle throttle valve carburetor and clutch and brake control levers. Well... of course, a pair of wheels - for example, from a mini mokika made in Riga or a motor scooter. For the frame, select steel (preferably seamless) pipes of various diameters. Clearly, stock up on a welding machine.

Look at the picture. As you can see, a “winter” moped is not too different from a regular one, except that instead of a wheel, a ski is installed in front (which, however, can easily be replaced with a wheel when summer comes). And one more thing. The rear wheel, equipped with snow chains, is mounted in a pendulum fork, not with two side ones, as on serial mopeds, but with a central shock absorber from a motorcycle.

If you are not going to completely copy our moped, I can recommend a completely universal method for designing and manufacturing two-wheeled machines.

To begin, cut out from thick cardboard the silhouettes of all available purchased components and assemblies - the engine with clearly marked mounting units, the front fork, the fuel tank, exhaust pipe and muffler, rear pendulum fork, shock absorber, rear wheel. Now lay out the silhouettes on a large sheet of paper or plywood and find for them the only possible position that your design instinct, design taste and common sense will tell you. Do not forget that the driver is also included as a (“component element” in the “person - vehicle" That is, it makes sense to cut out an articulated silhouette model from thick cardboard in accordance with your anthropometric dimensions - it will help to avoid mistakes when configuring the machine.

So, the silhouettes took their place on the plaza sheet. Secure them to it (say, with a couple of small nails) and outline them with a colored pencil. Now you can draw a frame that will unite all the units into a whole. It will be based on two pipes - a spinal (longitudinal) and a vertical one. The first is where the steering column, upper engine mounting assembly and seat box are mounted. On the second is the rear engine mounting assembly and the axis of the pendulum fork. To create a frame with an optimal configuration that combines all these elements means making it as simple as possible, with minimum sizes and accordingly mass. But at the same time as durable and rigid as possible.

Having determined the configuration and location of the frame elements using the selection method, draw it on a plaza drawing (take a pencil of a different color). Next, you should draw the mounting components for installing the engine, brackets for fixing the shock absorber, the position of the saddle cushion - and the life-size plasma drawing of the moped is basically ready.

Let's move on to the second stage - making the moped frame, and then assembling the car. First, the pipes - spinal and vertical - are adjusted directly according to the drawing. Then they are tacked together with several welding “spots”. Also adjust the reinforcing gussets, engine mounting units, steering column, pendulum fork mounting unit. Having carefully checked the conformity of the frame to the plaza drawing, as well as its symmetry relative to the longitudinal plane, weld all joints sequentially with step-by-step control of the frame's fidelity to the drawing. This will then avoid distortions of the entire structure.

The seams of the welded frame are cleaned with a file, the pipes are sanded, after which the metal is primed and painted in two or three layers with air-drying alkyd auto-enamel.

The front steerable ski of a winter moped is made of wood. Of course, the best one will come from a piece of mountain debris, but you can glue it together from several layers of plywood, and then edge the sole with a thin steel sheet.
The snow chain is assembled from links of a steel chain of suitable size. You can, of course, simply wrap the wheel with such a chain, but a more reliable option is a composite bandage similar to a car chain made from individual elements.

Please note that winter mopeds do not have footrests. The fact is that the driver has to help himself with his feet while driving to maintain balance, so it is best to put miniature plastic skis on them or, as a last resort, make “skis” from scraps of children’s skis. Their length is no more than 400 mm. I note that the brake on the moped is only on the rear wheel with manual drive.

To work in tandem with a moped, make two towed devices— “snow plow” and cargo sleds. The first is for clearing paths. It consists of two boards with a cross section of 30X300 mm and a length of about a meter connected in the shape of the letter A, with a jumper approximately in the middle of this letter A. Of course, such a “plow” can only remove freshly fallen snow. The cargo sled is an ordinary plywood box mounted through spacer bars on two children's skis.

Of course, carry out all work on cleaning and transporting snow in first gear. If the engine starts to “sneeze”, you will have to install a larger diameter sprocket on the rear wheel. That's it.

Yes, when switching to the summer version of the moped, standard footrests and, preferably, a foot brake are installed on it.

The numbers in the figure show:

1 — rear pendulum ailka, 2 — seat cushion, 3 — fuel tank(from a plastic canister suitable in volume and dimensions), 4 - reinforcing gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 5 - seat base (box made of sheet duralumin), 6 - frame spinal tube (steel pipe with a diameter of 36 2.5 mm ), 7 — steering wheel (from Monica “Karpaty”), 8 — strengthening gusset (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 9 — front vipka (from mopeds like “Riga”, “Karpaty” or “Verkhovyna”), 10 - rubber guy-shock absorber, 11 - bracket (pipes - 22X2 mm in diameter, supports - 2.5 mm thick frame, gusset - 3.5 mm thick steel). 12 - wad (glued from plywood blanks, the sole is a steel sheet 0.8 mm thick), 13 - engine (type V-50 or Ш 58 - Ш-62), 14 - vertical frame pipe (steel pipe with a diameter of 36X2.5 mm ), 15 — rear engine mounting bracket (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 16 — shock absorber (from motorcycles like “Minsk” or “Voskhod”), 17 — snow chain, 18 — rear wheel.

3. SLAVETS, engineer

In good weather, a motorcycle scooter with a small engine capacity has always been in demand not only among young people, but also among adults. Because it was distinguished by its ease of operation, lightness and good speed. But unfortunately, when cold weather sets in, due to the small diameter of the wheels, riding a scooter becomes very uncomfortable, and in snowy weather, even wearing winter tires completely unrealistic.

Having studied various motorcycle magazines, it was noticed that there are caterpillar movers on sale; they can be installed instead of the rear wheel, which will lead to the transformation of the motorcycle into a snowmobile.

If you have like-minded people in this matter, then it is best to take a track from the Buran snowmobile (photo 1); it will work perfectly, since one track will produce 4 suitable for a scooter. The cost will be 2.5 times cheaper than tracks taken from a motorcycle. But for one scooter it will cost too much.

Soon, after contacting a company that deals with propulsion kits, I received one not very wide track and a plastic ski without fastening.

No changes will be made to the basic design of the scooter, so that in warm weather it is always possible to replace the installed tracks with wheels.

We buy in the store driven sprocket from the Buran snowmobile, 2 wheels from a regular scooter for children and 2 small wheels from a cart, with roller bearings. Next, instead of the drive wheel on the scooter, we put a wheel of a much smaller diameter, for example from a sports car. auto, in order to replace the gear ratio. This is done because in a scooter transmission the gear ratio is usually calculated for its operation on excellent roads at an approximate speed of up to 40-60 km/h. Of course, when driving in snow, the load on the engine increases significantly and its power most likely will not be enough, but such high speed may be dangerous on slippery roads.

Take the drive wheel disk of the moped and cut it out brake drum with slots for the drive shaft, and to attach a disk of smaller diameter, we drill a hole in the drum (photo 2).

To ensure that the caterpillar does not slide off the wheel and does not slip while moving, we make hooks (photo 3) from plastic water pipes, which in turn are inserted into a hole on the caterpillar.

It is necessary to make a bandage of the required diameter from flat roofing metal, attach the hooks to it using furniture bolts (photo 4), they should be at the same distance from each other and at a pitch that will correspond to the location of the caterpillar holes. Using the same bolts, we fasten the wheel, having first put a bandage on it (photo 5). We get a soft driving track sprocket from a regular wheel.

We connect the driving sprocket of the Buran snowmobile with 2 rubber wheels from the trolley with M8 bolts, we get a driven sprocket, and for the axle we take a stud with an M10 thread (photo 6).

To make the frame of a tracked mover, you will need metal corners and square pipes (photo 7). The dimensions of the frame and the parts that go with it will need to be selected independently, depending on the track you choose and the brand of your scooter.

You can take a homemade ski from wood or a plastic one from a children's scooter, attaching a metal cut to the bottom so that the scooter does not lose control on an icy road. The ski must be secured to the front fork of the scooter through a special rack. It will have 2 degrees of freedom of movement, due to which when the scooter is tilted in any direction, the ski will remain on the snow with its entire plane.

We install a wide platform under the feet and a small decorative shield for the front fork. For long trips in adverse weather, it is necessary to install a windshield.

The standard body kit on a scooter is not very durable in high-degree frosts and has small pockets; if snow gets into them, the weight of the scooter will increase. To avoid this, we make a small casing over the track. To do this, take a piece of plexiglass, polycarbonate or other plastic that we need in size and carefully cut out the side of the casing.

We transfer it to a large sheet, it will serve as the other wall of the matrix and using hot glue along the entire perimeter of the sidewall we fix the plastic corners. We cut off a strip of flexible and preferably thin plastic, the width of the planned casing. We carefully assemble the matrix by gluing the previously made sidewall, bottom and large panel to the corners. All joints of parts must be coated with plasticine.