What to do if there is no light in the house? A current generator can help solve the problem. But if this equipment also fails, checking the generator with a multimeter will help determine the malfunction. Regardless of the type and brand, with the help of this device, once you find out the cause of the malfunction, you can carry out simple repairs yourself.

There are many types of generators, from large and powerful industrial to small automotive devices. But the testing algorithm using the tester is the same for any generator.

What components and parts are checked using a multimeter?

This operation involves diagnosing the electrical part, and checking the following parts:

Performing each of the listed operations requires special knowledge and skill to carry out measurements, so each test should be considered in more detail.

Output voltage level measurement

For each individual unit this value will be different. Let's take a closer look at checking a car generator. Set the voltage measurement mode on the multimeter scale. First you need to check the voltage with the engine turned off. To do this, measure the voltage value at the battery terminals.

We connect the red probe to the positive terminal, and attach the black one to the minus terminal. A charged, serviceable battery will produce a value of up to 12.8 V. We start the engine. Then we take a measurement.

Now this value should be no more than 14.8 V, but no less than 13.5 V. If the voltage level is higher or lower, the generator is faulty.

Checking the rotor winding

To perform this operation, it is necessary to dismantle and disassemble the unit. Carrying out self-check, do not forget to set the device to the circuit resistance measurement mode.

Additionally, a value of no higher than 200 Ohm is set. These routine maintenance carried out in 2 stages:

1. Measuring the resistance value of the rotor windings. To do this, we attach the probes to the rings of the moving part of the engine and determine the value. This will make it possible to determine the probability of a winding circuit break at a value above 5 ohms. If the device shows less than 1.9 ohms, a turn short circuit has occurred. Most often, the chain breaks at the junction of the rotor winding lead to the ring. You can determine the defect by moving the wire with a probe at the soldering points, as well as by detecting darkened and crumbling wire insulation. In the event of a break or short circuit (short circuit), the wires become very hot, so the breakdown can be detected by visual inspection.
2. The circuit is tested to detect short circuit on the body. We position the generator rotor conveniently for operation. Then we bring one probe to the rotor shaft, and attach the second to any ring. If the winding is working properly, the resistance reading will go off scale. If it shows low resistance, this part should be sent for rewinding. When rewinding the rotor, it is important to maintain perfect balancing.

Checking the stator windings

Checking the stator begins with a visual inspection. We pay attention to external damage to the housing and insulation, and places where wires are burned during a short circuit.

The faulty unit should be rewound or replaced. If the external integrity of the wires is established, we begin to investigate using a tester.

Before starting work, you should make sure that the unit is disconnected from the network and that there is no contact between the leads of the stator windings.

When performing work to check the normal state of the node, we make sure:

• The integrity of the winding circuit. To do this, set the device to resistance measurement mode. We attach the probes to the first pair of terminals, then check the 1st winding and the 3rd, 3rd and 2nd terminals. If, during a break, the pointer of an analog device goes off the scale, the windings should be rewinded.
• In the absence of an interturn short circuit and to the housing. To do this, connect one of the tips to the terminal, the second to the body. If the windings are short-circuited, the scale will have a lower resistance value than those in good condition.

Voltage Regulator Troubleshooting

Remove and disconnect the wires from the part. We inspect the condition of the brushes. They should not have significant defects or chips. In the guide channels of the brush holder, the generator brushes must move freely. If they protrude beyond the edge by less than 5 mm, the generator regulator should be changed.

The test is carried out using batteries and a 12-volt light bulb. The voltage of the second power source must be at least 15 V, therefore car battery We connect the batteries in series and bring the value to the desired value. We attach the plus from the 1st power source to the output contact, and the minus to ground.

The light bulb is installed between the brushes. When connecting a 16 V source, it should not light up. With a weaker battery, it lights up. If proper combustion is not observed, the regulator should be replaced.

Checking the diode bridge and capacitor

The purpose of this unit is to prevent the passage of electricity to the generator. It must direct it from the generator to the consumer. In this case, any deviation is a malfunction of the diode bridge.

To check, we dismantle it and solder the terminals on the generator. We set the device to “ring”.

To check the power diode, we bring the black probe to the bridge plate, and attach the red one to the output. If the multimeter reading is 400-800 Ohm, the diode is working, other numbers require replacing the diode or bridge.

When checking the auxiliary diode, the operation is performed in a similar way. But when the probes are swapped, the device should show a resistance value tending to infinity.

To detect a faulty capacitor, you can check it using the “old-fashioned method”. To do this, you need to apply voltage to it for a short time. It should charge.

When its contacts close, a spark should break between them. This means that the capacitor is working.

When checking a polar capacitor, you need to remove the remaining charge. Then, set the resistance measurement on the scale. The contacts must be attached with correct polarity. When measuring a working part, the resistance gradually increases. Otherwise, when the screen shows 0, it should be replaced.

If a non-polar capacitor is being tested, the value scale is set to MOhm. We place the probes on the contacts regardless of polarity. Then, you need to measure the resistance value. If the number on the screen is less than 2 ohms, this is a faulty part.

In conclusion, it is necessary to recall that all measurements when checking the functionality of the generator using a multimeter are carried out by measuring the value of the electric current resistance.

Only to measure the voltage at the output of the generator, the device is configured to measure this value. Any beginner can test a generator with a multimeter. You just need to work with full responsibility and follow the instructions.

Failure to charge the battery can have unpleasant consequences: there is not enough energy to power consumers, and the engine stops starting. To understand the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to check the generator; in car services, diagnostics are often carried out on a special stand, for this the unit is removed.

But there are also methods for checking the charging source on site, where there is no need to dismantle the generator; in some cases, the problem can be fixed quite easily. In this article we will look at what quick diagnostic methods there are and what you may need for this.

How to check the generator on site

There are main reasons for poor starting of an internal combustion engine; the starter turns poorly if:

• the battery is old or faulty, does not charge and does not hold a load;
• battery cables do not provide reliable contact, for example, due to oxidized terminals;
• there is no reliable mass of the engine with the body;
• the generator does not provide the required charge;
• loosely stretched drive belt, because of this, the generator rotor does not rotate at full strength, since the belt slips under load.

There are different types of generator failures, the most typical of which are:

• breakage of wires approaching the node;
• breakdown of the diode bridge;
• malfunction of the relay regulator;
• short circuit (burnout, break) of the rotor or stator winding;
• bearing wear;
• brushes wear out or break.

The worst that can happen is that the bearings jam or the windings burn out, but in this case it is easy to check the generator for functionality; its condition can be easily determined by external signs:

• The generator pulley and shaft do not rotate when the engine is running;
• a specific smell of burnt windings appeared.

The main ways to check a generator on site are an external inspection of the parts of the generator assembly and measuring the voltage (U) with a multimeter (voltmeter). With the engine running under load, the voltage should drop slightly, but only to a certain value; if it is below normal, it is necessary to specifically deal with the generator device.

The functionality of the generator without removing it from the car is checked according to the same principle, regardless of the car model, be it a foreign car or a VAZ-2106. In this case, it is not necessary to connect a multimeter to the generator connectors; you can measure the voltage directly on the battery. We check the generator with a tester as follows:

If the charge almost does not drop under load, this is very good; it means that the generator is practically new, and the battery is in excellent condition. When the voltmeter shows a voltage of less than 12 V with the engine stopped, you first need to do maintenance battery, first of all you should recharge it. You also need to take into account that constant undercharging of the battery leads to destruction of the battery plates, in advanced cases you have to both repair the generator and restore the battery’s functionality (sometimes it needs to be replaced).

Removing the battery terminal while the engine is running is an old, proven method of checking the functionality of the generator; this method was used back in Soviet cars. We check like this:

• start the engine;
• disconnect the negative terminal and move it to the side;
• if the engine turns off, it means there is no charging, you need to deal with the generator;
• Without installing the terminals, we add speed, the internal combustion engine should not stall.

Another point you should pay attention to is when installing the negative wire in place while the engine is running idle speed should not change noticeably. A significant decrease in speed indicates that the battery is quite discharged, and attention should be paid to this. A discharged or faulty battery may fail on the road; it is better not to travel with such a battery.

An important point is that you need to remove the terminal with the engine running very carefully; the wire should not touch live parts of the car (body, engine housing, etc.). On many modern cars disconnect the terminal during internal combustion engine operation It is generally not recommended; if there is insufficient confidence in the test results, it is better not to use this method.

It is worth noting that there is still a way to check with a test light, but we will not consider this method - the lamp only indicates the presence or absence of charging, with its help it is impossible to determine the value of the voltage in the network and its dependence on the load.

Signs of a weak alternator charge

In order to understand that the generator does not provide normal charging, it is not necessary to take measurements; the malfunction can be determined by various signs:

• while the engine is running, the charging indicator lamp on the instrument panel blinks or lights up;
• under load (headlights, heater on rear window etc.) engine speed drops;
• the headlights burn dimly, this is especially noticeable when the high beams are turned on;
• When the engine speed increases, a whistle is heard, the cause of which is a loose drive belt, so charging also drops.

The on-board power supply indicator lamp must light up when the ignition is turned on and go out when the engine is running. If the instrument panel light does not light up at all, it may be burnt out and need to be replaced. Light indicators are now installed on almost all modern cars; previously, voltmeters were mainly used to monitor the state of the electrical network. These meters have ceased to be used due to the large error in the readings: it is difficult to determine from the voltmeter on the instrument panel exactly what kind of charging the generator is providing, but the warning lamp is difficult not to notice if it lights up.

Causes of battery undercharging

A car battery is an energy storage device: while the engine is running, it is charged from the generator, and then gives its energy to the starter to start the internal combustion engine. If the battery is not fully charged, it cannot provide normal cranking to the starter, causing problems:

• the engine does not start or starts with great difficulty;
• when the headlights or other consumers are turned on, the light on the instrument panel dims;
• the car has to be started by various unpopular methods - from a pusher, from a tow, by lighting it with another battery.

When there is undercharging, the indicator lamp on the instrument panel lights up at half intensity, the main reasons for this phenomenon are as follows:

• there is damage in the diode bridge - one of the diodes is broken;
• the relay-regulator (RR) is faulty;
• The generator brushes are worn out, or they do not fit tightly to the ring at the end of the armature (there is no reliable contact).

The voltage regulator (relay), more often than other parts, is the cause of this malfunction; it is one of the most vulnerable parts in the electrical part of the machine. To check or replace the relay-regulator, you often have to remove the entire generator assembly, but there are many car models where the removal and replacement of the RR can be done on site, without dismantling the generator assembly.

Recharging the battery

The generator does not always undercharge the battery; it happens quite often when overcharging occurs, that is, the generator unit produces voltage above the prescribed norm. As a rule, the cause of overcharging is a faulty voltage regulator; it does not work as expected, and the generator continues to produce current when the battery is fully charged.

Without removing the generator from the car, the relay-regulator is checked in the same way as with undercharging, only in this case the multimeter shows the voltage of the on-board network when the load is on more than 14.7 V (readings can be even higher, for example, even more than 17 Volts) . Constant overcharging is dangerous because it:

• the electrolyte in the battery banks begins to boil;
• lead plates of the battery are exposed;
• sulfation occurs (destruction of the plates), the battery becomes inoperable;
• Due to increased voltage, light bulbs may burn out, electrical equipment may fail, and fuses may burn.

There is still a danger of a battery explosion, which occurs due to clogging of the holes in the plugs of the battery cans when the electrolyte is boiling.

On many VAZ cars of the “Classic” family (in particular, on the VAZ-2106), the voltage relay can be changed quite easily, as it is located separately, located next to the front fender of the car. The relay-regulator of the VAZ-2105 and 2107 type is located in the generator itself, it is a little more difficult to get to, but replacing it is also easy.

Statement that the generator is the "heart" electrical diagram car, does not require any argument. A lot depends on its correct functioning, and the service life of the battery in the first place. Consequently, regular and timely diagnostics of the generator and checking its performance ensures that a number of troubles (mostly appearing at the most inconvenient moment), including financial ones, can be avoided.

Let's figure out how to correctly check a car's generator for performance, without going to a service workshop, but at home, using the simplest device and tools.

A car generator, like any other electrical device, requires careful handling. To avoid its failure due to an error made during testing, you should know and follow some rules.

• Even short-term operation of the generator at " idling", that is, when the load is off.
• Conduct a performance test by short-circuiting the terminals, or as they say, “to a spark.”
• Assess the condition of the rectifier using a magnetometer. Only with a device with a voltage not exceeding the nominal value for the on-board network, that is, 12 V!

All other “don’ts” relate to the rules of operation and maintenance.

What to consider

• When replacing wires coming from the generator, you should use similar ones - both in length and cross-section of the cores.
• The most effective performance check is . As a rule, one household multimeter is sufficient for general diagnostics. For example, this one.

The required measurement limits are easy to understand from the further description of the generator testing procedure.

Assessing the condition of the generator requires preliminary preparation. In addition to choosing a device (tester) and the right tool, it consists of checking the reliability of all connections of the electrical circuit and the normal tension of the generator belt. This means that its maximum deflection when pressed with average force (about 10 kg) should not exceed 12±2 mm.

Procedure for diagnosing a car generator

The check should begin by warming up (15 minutes) the engine. This general rule for all cars.

Voltage Regulator Testing

The measurement is made by connecting the multimeter probes to the “positive” and “negative” terminals of the generator. The voltage rating (V) is indicated in the technical documentation for the car, so for different brands and models it differs and lies in the range of 13.6 - 14.4. You can also measure at the battery terminals, but only if you are sure that the wire insulation is good. However, this method is applicable only when checking the generator of relatively new cars. On used cars it is worn out, and the readings of the device will not reflect the real state of things. That is, diagnostic errors cannot be avoided.

Check conditions

The speed is average, the main consumers of electricity are in operating mode (headlights are on, and so on). The device switch is “measurement U”.

When the engine speed increases (an assistant will be needed here), the device should not show an increase in voltage of more than half a volt.

Rectifier diagnostics

The current at the generator output is checked. Its average value is 0.5 A. If it is higher, then it can be argued that one of the diodes of the rectifier bridge is faulty.

Check condition: the tester is switched to “measurement I~”.

Additionally, the bridge resistance is checked. The terminals are disconnected, and a measurement is made between the car’s ground and the “+” terminal, with different connections of the probes. If in both cases the device shows some identical value, and even more so zero, then there is a decrease in the reverse resistance of one of the diodes or its breakdown.

It also happens that conductivity in both directions is not measured, that is, the device indicator shows “infinity”. This is evidence of an internal open circuit in the semiconductor.

Check condition: multimeter switch – “measurement R” (kOhm).

Checking the generator by current

This can be done if the multimeter has a device such as a current clamp.

The value of I is measured when each of the consumers is turned on in turn. After which the current is measured at the total load on the on-board network. That is, all the car’s devices turn on. Differences in readings are no more than 5 A.

Check condition: the multimeter is converted to “measurement I=”.

There are a number of other checks, but the author does not recommend doing them yourself. Some of them involve partial disassembly of the generator, and if there is no practical experience and knowledge, then it is better to contact a specialist. Moreover, if signs of defects in the rotor or stator windings are detected (for example, an interturn short circuit), then the generator will definitely have to be replaced. Repairing it will not cost much less than purchasing a new product.

Checking the brushes

No device is needed here. The degree of their wear and geometry violation is determined visually.

Checking the integrity of support bearings

Simply remove the belt from the pulley and turn the rotor by hand. Free rotation of the shaft is a sign that everything is in order. If there is play, the bearings must be replaced.

Signs of a generator malfunction

Malfunctions in its operation can occur at any time. If you immediately record this and take action, then you can level out everything negative consequences its incorrect functioning.

• When the generator is operating, “sound accompaniment” is clearly audible in the form of noises, whistles, and the like.
• Excessive heating of the product body.
• A constant light on the instrument panel indicates a lack of charge.
• The smell of burnt insulation, which often penetrates into the interior.
• Rapid battery discharge.
• Incorrect operation of consumers (dim headlights, blinking light bulbs, etc.). This is especially true if the battery is old and does not hold capacity.

As a rule, the above checks are sufficient to conduct a general diagnosis of the generator. Determining more complex faults is the prerogative of specialists, and it is better not to do this on your own, without thoroughly knowing the structure of the car.

A car generator is the main source of energy in the on-board network, and if it fails or fails, you won’t be able to drive for long on one battery. This is why it is so important to monitor the performance of the generator.

The full range of generator checks includes:

In most cases, checking a car's generator with your own hands is not difficult, since no matter what car you check on, the principle is the same. But still, many car owners often wonder: how to check the generator with a multimeter or with improvised means?

How to check the generator without removing it from the car

There are two ways, using a multimeter and without it at all. The first, relatively new, is to do this, and the second, old and proven, is almost the opposite - the battery terminal must be removed with the engine running.

1. Checking the battery with a multimeter first occurs at rest - the voltage should be in the range of 12.5-12.8 V. Then you need to measure the readings already at running engine, if 13.5-14.5 V is observed at 2 thousand revolutions, then everything is in order. Moreover, on new cars, even 14.8 V is quite normal, as manufacturers assure - the abundance of electronics affects it. In conclusion it remains check voltage under load, that is, by connecting consumers - stove, headlights, heating, radio. A dip in the range of 13.7–14.0 V is considered acceptable, but 12.8–13 V already indicates a malfunction.
2. The second method, like many “old-fashioned” ones, is simple and trouble-free, but at the same time quite dangerous and requires caution. It allegedly works both on VAZs and on relatively new cars, like the Aveo. What is the point - loosen the bolt securing the negative terminal of the battery with a 10mm wrench, start the engine and give a small load, turning on one of the consumers, for example, the headlights. Then remove the terminal while the engine is running - if it does not stall and the headlights do not dim, then everything is absolutely fine with the generator, otherwise you can be sure that it is broken. You should try this method at your own peril and risk.

It is extremely undesirable to allow the generator to operate when consumers, especially the battery, are disconnected. This may cause the relay regulator to malfunction.

Having determined that there is a malfunction, you should dismantle and check the removed generator with a multimeter, a light bulb, and visually. Each of its elements is subject to verification separately.

List of generator parts and applicable test methods	Visual inspection	Checking with a multimeter	Checking with a light bulb
Brushes
Slip rings
Diode bridge
Voltage regulator
Stator
Rotor

The first step is to make sure that the alternator belt is well tensioned and the bearings are not broken. Extraneous noise and a very hot generator indicate bearing wear.

How to check brushes and slip rings

To begin with, the rings and brushes are visually inspected and their condition is assessed. For example, the minimum balance is measured (min. height of current collecting brushes is not less than 4.5 mm, and the min diameter of the rings is 12.8 mm). In addition, they look for the presence of grooves and furrows.

Brushes removed from the regulator brush assembly

Generator rotor slip rings

How to check a diode bridge (rectifier)

Diodes are checked by measuring resistance and detecting conductivity. Since the diode bridge consists of two plates, we check one at once and then the other. The tester should show diode conductivity in only one direction. Now, in a little more detail: we hold one tester probe on the “+” terminal, and with the other we check the diode terminals one by one, and then swap the probes (in one case there should be a high resistance, and in the other there should not be). Then we do the same with the other part of the bridge.

It should be noted that the resistance should not be zero, as this indicates that the diode is broken. Broken bridge diode even when there is no resistance on both sides.

Checking the diode bridge

Checking the slip rings

At least one an unusable diode leads to failure of the entire diode bridge and undercharges the battery.

There are two power sources in a car - a battery and a generator. The first powers the electrical circuit when the engine is not running. The second is when the engine is already running. In this case, the battery goes into electric current consumer mode and replenishes the energy expended to start the engine.

In practice, malfunctions of one or another power supply are quite common. They often manifest themselves in the same way. The starter refuses to spin the engine, and as a result the engine does not start. When the engine is running, the warning light on the instrument panel with the battery icon lights up. It indicates that a malfunction has occurred and the battery is not charging.

Checking the generator on the car

First of all, you need to see if the alternator belt is intact. If it is not torn, then the belt tension is checked. Then it's time for the battery. Using a tester (multimeter), we measure the voltage at the terminals. It should be around 12−12.7 volts. If everything is fine, start the engine. If the battery is discharged, charge it and start the engine again.

We measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be within specified limits, usually from 13.2 to 14.5 volts. But on modern cars these limits may differ. If you have an instruction manual, you can read it. Deviation from the specified values ​​in any direction is a malfunction. These deviations can be of three types:

1. No charging current- the generator does not work.
2. There is charging current, but below the minimum value- the battery is insufficiently charged.
3. Voltage above maximum value- recharging the battery.

All three cases indicate an existing malfunction in the vehicle's electrical supply system. need to be carried out due diligence generator

But before that, conduct a visual inspection of all the wires and cables that go from the generator to the battery. There should be no visible damage, breaks or oxidation of the electrical wiring. Be sure to check the terminals on the battery, starter and alternator. They must be clean and dry. Any oxidation, rust or dirt must be cleaned off. Often this helps restore lost contact and the car begins to work as expected. If this does not help, we proceed to a detailed check.

For further inspection, it is better to remove the generator from the car. First of all, remove the relay regulator from the generator and check it. To check the voltage stabilizer, you will need a multimeter and a charger with regulated voltage. It would be better instead charger use a power supply. Voltage adjustment from 0 to 16 volts will be sufficient.

Connect the plus of the power supply to the regulator - usually this is a male plug connection. Hook the minus to the minus, it is usually output to the ear of the relay mount. Connect the red wire of the tester to the positive wire of the power supply, the black wire to the negative wire. Connect two stripped wires to the brushes, one for each. A light bulb is connected to the other pre-stripped ends (it can be removed from the rear lights car). The test bench is ready.

Continuity of the relay regulator

Connect the power supply to the network, carefully use the regulator knob to begin raising the voltage. At the same time, monitor the multimeter readings. The light bulb should not light up at the very beginning, but as the voltage rises it should light up, first at half-incandescence and as the voltage increases, the brightness should increase.

When the 14.5 volt mark is reached, the regulator should operate, cutting off the voltage. The light should then go out. It is generally accepted that the stabilizer is working if it cuts off the current at values ​​​​from 14.2 to 14.8 volts. If this happens at lower or higher values, then the voltage regulator is faulty. The relay is also faulty if there is no current cutoff at all.

If the relay malfunctions, replace it with a new one. If it is working properly, we continue checking.

How to test a generator with a multimeter

The diode bridge of the generator can be checked with a multimeter, but you can also use the stand that was used to check the regulator.

But before that, first of all, without removing the rectifier bridge from the generator, connect the red wire of the tester to terminal 30 of the generator, and the black wire to the housing. Set the tester operating mode to dial (diode icon). If it is not there, then set it to 1-2 kOhm. The multimeter should show infinity. If the readings are different, the diode bridge is faulty.

Then check the current rectifiers for breakdown. Leave the positive (red) probe on terminal 30, touch the negative one to the bridge mounting bolts one by one. The multimeter display should show infinity in all cases; any others mean a breakdown.

But in practice, such verification is most often not enough. In most cases, it is necessary to ring the generator in more detail.

Careful testing

To do this, unscrew the fastening bolts of the rectifier unit, disconnect the copper wires of the stator winding and remove the diode bridge from the generator. Now you can test each semiconductor individually. Before checking, it is advisable to rinse the stabilizer with running water using a brush. medium hard and then dry thoroughly. For quick drying, a hair dryer is quite suitable.

Attach one of the tester probes to the diode plate, connect the second to the central terminal of each diode fixed to this plate. Then swap the probes. In one case, the multimeter should show infinity, in the other - a nominal resistance of approximately 570-590 Ohms. Rectifiers are considered faulty if:

• In the first and second measurements (when the polarity was changed), the multimeter readings are the same;
• Diode resistance is greater or less than nominal values.

Perform the same actions with the second plate of the diode bridge. If a malfunction is detected one or more diodes, it will be easier to replace the entire rectifier unit. True, there are craftsmen who replace failed diodes individually, but such work requires a certain skill and dexterity.

Checking the armature and stator windings

Further inspection requires completely disassembling the generator. First of all, visually check the anchor. Brush rings should not show any blackening, chipping or wear on the treadmills. Blackening and slight wear can be smoothed out with zero-grade emery cloth. Rings with deep grooves must be replaced or, if the thickness of the rings allows, turned on a lathe.

The armature winding should not clearly smell like burning.. The color of the winding must be uniform and free of damage and breaks. To check the armature winding for a break, you will need a multimeter. Set the operating mode to continuity testing or resistance measurement and connect the probes to the brush rings. The winding resistance should be within 3-5 Ohms. Then leave one probe on the ring, connect the other to the body. The multimeter display should show infinity.

The generator stator is diagnosed after removal from the housing. First of all, carry out a visual inspection. There should be no visible damage to the wire or its insulation. Then connect the tester wire to the stator housing. With the second wire, touch the terminals one by one. There are only three of them. The tester must be in dialing mode. If the display shows infinity, this indicates that the stator is working properly.

Further testing consists of diagnosing the windings. The resistance of all three windings must be the same.

Before assembling the generator, you need to check and, if necessary, replace the bearings. When turning, they should not jam or make a creaking sound. This means that they are very worn out and will soon fail. Therefore, it is better to replace them immediately.