The fact is that serial walk-behind tractors have extremely insufficient adhesion mass (5-6 times less than the minimum required), so they cannot create sufficient traction force for plowing: they slip. In practice, I was convinced that you can plow only if the adhesion mass is at least “600 kg (like a horse). And everyone has it wheeled tractors is calculated so that there are at least 4 tons per meter of plowing strip width. This means that the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, with its mass of 100 kg, can lift a layer only... 2.5 cm wide! To plow with a horse-drawn plow that lifts a layer with a cross-section of 20X20 cm, the weight of the walk-behind tractor (tractor) must be at least 800 kg.
It is for these reasons that the Main Directorate of the State Traffic Inspectorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia made a technically completely justified requirement for all walk-behind tractors: “It is possible to produce walk-behind tractors with an engine power of no more than 5-7 hp. And for every hundred kilograms total weight the walk-behind tractor should not have more than 1 hp.”

Back in 1998, I made a walk-behind tractor. Although its weight increased to 240 kg, I became convinced that it was impossible to plow well with it: it was heavy - I had to push the motorized plow myself. Then I made a rotary cutter. She also did not live up to my hopes. As soon as a pebble, a rhizome, or unrotted manure fell under the cutter's blades, it jumped to the surface and took off running on the cutter, as if on a wheel. And if manure was brought into the area, then the knives did not go deep at all and the manure was wound around the cutter.

In 2000, he made the first motorized winch. Its adhesion to the soil is completely independent of weight, since it is securely held in place by an anchor, the paws of which, shaped like bayonet shovels, are buried in the soil. It is the anchor that gives the motorized winch exceptional performance. It allows you to use all the engine power for useful work, which is not available to any other equipment of a similar purpose.

The fact is that both the tractor and the walk-behind tractor spend half of their power on self-propulsion. The weight of the motorized winch with a full charge (10 liters of gasoline) is only 42 kg. This means that it requires half as much metal as the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, and 14 times less than the mini-tractor from the Kutaisi, Gomel or Kharkov plants.

Well, now let's try to compare the performance of a winch, walk-behind tractor and horse. It turns out this is the arithmetic. The horse's rated power when running is about 1 hp. Its weight is 600 kg. The MB-1 walk-behind tractor is six times lighter than a horse. This means that he can use no more than "D hp" to create traction force.

The weight of a mini-tractor is comparable to that of a horse. Accordingly, it can be assumed that to create traction force it can use no more than 1 hp. My motorized winch is powered by an “Electron” scooter engine with a power of 7.5 hp. uses all the engine power to create thrust. This means that the winch is 7.5 times more productive than a horse and 45 times more productive than a walk-behind tractor!!! That is why it easily lifts a layer of earth with a cross section of 30X35 cm and can even plow virgin soil.

I copied the plow for my winch from a two-wheeled horse-drawn plow, but made it as lightweight and simplified as possible. It “holds” the furrow itself, exactly copying the one previously traversed, and there is no need to control it. Plowing with a winch is so easy and simple that even children can do it, and it is completely safe. You don't need any strength or skill for this.

In our city and surrounding area, the motorized winch has long replaced walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors.

Many who, believing the advertisement, bought a walk-behind tractor, are now converting it to a walk-behind winch using their motors. My neighbor, who has a homemade mini-tractor, has already made seven winches for all his relatives, two of which he sent to neighboring regions. He gave his first winch to his brother living in Perm about eight years ago. This was the only winch that had lugs on the front and back parts frames Perhaps it served as a model for the winch of the Perm students, who, by the way, made two big mistakes. The first is that they made the lugs in the front part of the frame, forgetting that when the cable is tensioned, a tipping moment appears. This does not make it possible to use the full power of the motor, and working on such a winch is unsafe. It happened that when plowing virgin soil, such a winch lifted a person standing on the back of the frame and threw it over the winch. Therefore, the lugs need to be installed only on the back of the frame, preferably hinged: it is more convenient to deepen them, and working with a winch will be completely safe. The person operating the winch will stand on the lugs, deepening them with their weight, which makes it possible to triple the traction force.

The second mistake is that they made the plow single-wheeled with control handles. It is inconvenient to roll it to the beginning of the furrow, and it is impossible to start the furrow from the obstacle itself (fence, building, greenhouse, etc.): the control handles get in the way. Moreover, two people must plow such a plow.

The plow must be made with two wheels: such a furrow “holds” itself, exactly copying the one previously traversed. There is practically no need to operate it, it is more convenient and easier to roll it to the beginning of the furrow, it allows you to start the furrow from the obstacle itself, and then one person can plow the winch.
Now I have three motor winches. The latter design is extremely successful: it plows, harrows, hills potatoes, loosens rows even with closed tops, allows you to plant potatoes “under the plow”, cultivate slopes of any steepness, serves as a load-lifting device, works with any cultivator, and clears forests.

In addition to all this, it (which is especially valuable) can transport a load of up to 500 kg at a speed of up to 40 km/h. The traffic police allows you to drive it on all roads without restrictions.

My motorized winch is designed extremely simply. It has two frames - main and additional. The main one is the front fork of the motorcycle, on which the engine, gas tank, drum with cable and engine controls are installed. An additional frame serves to stabilize the winch. An anchor with two grouser arms, similar to bayonet shovels, is hinged to it. The additional frame is attached to the main frame with four bolts. In its front part there are two limiting rollers for the cable in case the winch is installed at an angle to the furrow line.

To turn the winch into vehicle, the drum is removed, the additional frame is disconnected along with the anchor, the rear wheel from a motor scooter (“Tula”, “Tourist” or “Tulitsa”) is installed in the main fork frame, and then the main frame is attached to a two-wheeled trolley with a pivot bolt: a three-wheeled front-wheel drive trolley is obtained , similar to a cargo scooter.

Since the wheel sprocket of Tula scooters is twice as large as that of the Electron scooter, the speed of the trolley decreased by 2 times.
I wonder what steering column the trolleys are shifted back from the main frame; the fork frame together with the motor rotates 100° in both directions, which allows the trolley to turn 360° in place without going beyond its dimensions (so reverse gear she doesn't need it).

Note that the engine, tank, driver and passenger are located above the drive wheel, and the rear wheels of the cart are offset back from the center of the body. This increases the load on drive wheel, its grip on the road is simply excellent. The cart body is wooden, with dimensions 1.5X1.3X0.3 m. The cart frame is tubular, the wheels are from an Electron scooter.

Converting a motorized cart into a motorized winch is done in the reverse order.
Now many professional designers have become convinced that walk-behind tractors are not very suitable for plowing. The industry is starting to produce mini-tractors - their grip weight is quite sufficient for this. But using them on a personal plot is extremely difficult. The fact is that its area is very small, it is limited on all sides by fences and buildings, and on the sites themselves there are always obstacles: greenhouses, greenhouses, trees, perennial plantings, etc. As a rule, it is not possible to travel outside the site to turn around, and the tractor does this on the site, turning it into a road. After all, it has four wheels that roll the soil not only when moving forward, but also in reverse. In addition, it is incredibly expensive. With this money you can hire a plowman with a horse, without buying fuel and spare parts for 240 years, since plowing a plot in this way costs a lot. The mass of mini-tractors produced in Kutaisi, Kharkov and Gomel is 600 kg with a power of 6 hp engines, and this power is sometimes only enough to move this mountain of metal at a snail’s pace.

At home I had an old, dusty and oily 4-40 worm gearbox with a reduction ratio of 1:40, which served as the basis for the winch. This, by the way, can be found at a flea market for a low price and in good condition.

Having completely disassembled it and washed it in gasoline to remove oil deposits, which looked more like black plasticine, I decided to immediately change the seals. As a replacement, I used oil seals from a VAZ family car. I changed all the gaskets (replacement ones were cut from paronite 0.6 mm thick), and adjusted the gap between the worm and the gear. Filled gear oil, and the gearbox became like new.

To determine what size drum would be needed, I first welded a frame from a 40x40x4 mm angle piece measuring 75x30 cm.

At first I thought that the cable from the drum would be unwound using the engine reverse, but this turned out to be very time-consuming and inconvenient; manually it is much easier. But for this it was necessary to come up with a coupling with which it would be possible to separate the gearbox shaft from the drum shaft and thereby unwind the cable effortlessly to the required length of the garden. And while the winch is operating, I connect the gearbox to the drum, and both shafts work together.

The coupling was made from front CV joints (constant velocity joints) and the front hub of a VAZ 2108. The CV joint shafts have external splines identical to the internal splines of the hub. They will engage with each other. I purchased used CV joints and a hub at a scrap metal collection point (the nearest auto repair shop did not have them at that moment). I immediately cut off two parts of the shaft from the CV joint - these are what are needed to make the winch shaft (Fig. 3).

Then I started making a drum on which the cable would be wound. From a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of 114 mm I made two flanges 5 mm thick. At a metal depot I bought round steel (round timber) with a diameter of 35 mm - it served as a blank for the shaft. A round piece with a diameter of 90 mm became a blank for the drum bearing housings. By the way, keep in mind: when buying metal at a metal depot (if they cut it for you with a propane cutter), do not immediately throw it into a container of water. This metal is difficult to turn. I also had to buy a pair of 306 series bearings - these will withstand the load created by the plow.

Arriving home and drawing a drawing of the future shaft on a piece of paper (Fig. 1), I went to the turner. The time has come to collect all this into a single mechanism. I’ll say right away that winch housings can be found both ready-made and used. But there are no such stores in my city, so I asked the turner to also turn out the housing for the unit (Fig. 2).

Taking flanges with holes cut in the center for O.D. shaft, I welded them to a piece of pipe with a diameter of 114 mm. Then, passing the machined shaft through the flanges of the drum, centered it so that there was a small gap between the flange and the bearing housing, and welded the drum to the shaft. The splined shaft of the CV joint was inserted into a machined hole in the end of the drum shaft and carefully welded. I made the same slots on the gearbox. This required a second splined CV joint shaft - it was fixed to the gearbox through a machined bushing.

I made the fastenings of the gearbox and drum to the frame from a 50x50x5 mm corner. I fixed everything with tacks, because it all needs to be aligned. I welded a 50x50 mm angle to the turned bearing housings (Fig. 5): now they can be secured to the frame with bolts and easily removed if repairs or replacement of bearings is needed.

It is very important to position the housings so that when the winch is operating, the entire traction force from the housings falls not on the welding seam, but on the corner (photo 4). Then the case will not come off, the corner will provide a large margin of safety.

I aligned all the machined parts so that the hub moved freely and did not jam (photo 5), then lightly secured it with welding, and when I was sure that everything was installed correctly, I welded it properly.

You can fix the winch on the ground using two short pieces of pipe welded. You just need to pass reinforcement or metal rods through them and drive them into the ground.

The engine used was asynchronous, with a power of 1.5 kW and a speed of at least 2780 per minute. The lower power one – at 750 W and 2780 rpm – failed. I found an unexpected solution - I installed an angle grinder on the winch, in other words, a grinder with a power of 2.3 kW.

Probably every owner has one, and its power and 6500 rpm allow it to cope with any loads during plowing and hilling without the slightest sign of overheating. I secured it simply - with two bolts in the holes intended for installing the handle. Instead of a cutting disc, I installed a threaded pulley - and everything works great. The pulley, by the way, can be turned by a turner, or it can be made much cheaper: find a suitable pulley in scrap metal and, precisely centering it, weld a nut for clamping the disk from the same grinder. The belt was used from the generator of a VAZ-2101 car. The grinder is tightened using the force applied by hand (photo 6).

Everything is prepared, all that remains is to attach the cable to the drum with a bolt and wind it evenly. I took the cable with a thickness of 4 mm: this one confidently copes with its task, although if your soil is heavy, it is worth taking a 5 mm one, with a margin. I made the plow and hiller (photos 7-9) myself, since those offered on the market were not satisfactory in quality. Drawings of the plow and hiller are in Fig. 4-7. Having a welding machine, a grinder, a hammer and suitable material on the farm, making a plow and hiller is not difficult.

Preparing for work

At the beginning of the row, in the middle, we install a winch, driving in two metal rods for fixation. An assistant manually unwinds the cable to the required length. Using the hub, two shafts are connected, then we turn on the grinder - and the unit begins to work.

When hilling, you only need to slightly direct the plow to the left or right, adjusting the position of the hiller in the row. The plow also needs to be adjusted when plowing, although most of the work is done for you by the wheel in the furrow in front of the plow.

Now hilling and plowing takes much less time and effort, although if I were to make the same winch again, I would adjust a few things, making the design smaller. And so the plans include painting and modification of this winch, but even now it copes with its task perfectly.

Do-it-yourself electric winch plow - photos and drawings

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With the onset of spring, almost every landowner breaks out in a cold sweat. Again, regular cultivation of the vegetable garden, gardening, planting potatoes and various crops, which requires a lot of time and effort. Based on this, some people think about how to significantly simplify their lot in this whole process, others purposefully choose a faithful and irreplaceable assistant - .

Advantages of a homemade winch

According to the survey, few people find a suitable traction mechanism in stores or other trading platforms. Most people do it themselves, using scrap materials and standard publicly available parts.

As a rule, the design of a homemade winch is very simple and consists of a rigid frame, a motor (usually a three-phase one is used), an upper shaft (transmits engine power to the drum that winds the rope) and a lower shaft (influences gear ratio devices). It is characterized by increased traction force with a fairly low weight, it can be part of a cargo scooter that reaches speeds of up to 40 km/h.

Features of the plowing winch:

1. High traction power;
2. Wide scope of application;
3. Powered by engines internal combustion, and from electrical;
4. Long period of operation;
5. Ease of dismantling;
6. Maintains soil fertility;
7. Effective hilling of cultivated plants;
8. Safe and environmentally friendly use;
9. Cost-effective mechanism;
10. Almost silent in operation.

Electric plow - purpose and principle of operation

Often, a plow is used in tandem with an electric winch, which significantly increases its performance. Its principle of operation is quite simple: a traction structure is installed on one edge of the site, and a cultivator or plow attached to it on the other. Switching on: the tow mechanism begins to pull towards it, switching off – it moves by new row and the process repeats.

You can buy a plow for a winch in almost any specialized store, but you can also make it yourself. To do this, it will be enough to correctly measure the angles of the share (the optimal indicator relative to the field board is 20°-25° and 45° relative to the center line) and take a solid base (channel, for example). Often, for the stability of the structure, a 4 mm metal strip is welded into the middle, which will protect the plow from damage when it hits boulders.

Buy only high-quality traction mechanisms from trusted manufacturers. Basically, for self-assembly, electric plows are used from the Polish companies Dragon Winch and Husar. They are quite resistant to stress and do not require significant service. However, during operation it should be remembered that the traction force directly depends on the length of the cable: the more turns there are on the drum, the less weight the winch can pull and vice versa.

Walk-behind tractor - pros and cons

No less popular mechanisms for quickly plowing land are walk-behind tractors. These devices come in three types: light, medium and heavy. Basically, the last two are used in gardening activities, main feature which have rear-wheel drive.

Walk-behind tractors are suitable for use on large areas (up to 0.5 hectares), have a load-resistant engine with a power of up to 30 hp, and are easily attached to additional equipment. However, like most electrically powered devices, they have their own pros and cons.

Advantages of a mini tractor:

• possibility of attaching a plow or trailer;
• wide range of uses;
• multifunctionality at work;
• lightweight and easy to use;
• does not require large stock fuel.

Disadvantages of the walk-behind tractor:

• low productivity;
• large dimensions;
• inconvenience in transportation.

Agricultural winch or walk-behind tractor – which is better?

Process	Winch	Walk-behind tractor
Planting potatoes	Occurs using the classical method without damaging the product.