The majority of motorists prefer to listen not only to the sound of the engine, but also to their favorite music while driving. In order to enjoy the hits of popular artists at any convenient time, you need to choose the right car radio and take a responsible approach to the installation process. There are several ways to connect an audio system to a car. We will look at the following:

• standard connection diagram;
• using the ignition switch;
• directly to the battery;
• using a button (instead of the ignition switch);
• using an alarm.

Features of car radio installation

A well-trained specialist will help you achieve high-quality sound without compromising safety, since even consistent implementation of the instructions does not guarantee high-quality operation of the device. a new device can affect the operation of all electronics in the car.

The latest generations of car radios, depending on the installation method, can be divided into two types: built-in and stationary. The first ones are distinguished by the presence of a removable front part. Despite the rather simple design, the mechanism with a “shutter” protects the radio from theft.

The fixed system is in most cases installed in the vehicle at the factory and is externally part of the dashboard. There are several simple rules that you can follow to avoid problems when installing the radio yourself:

• Please read the instructions prior to installation. Car radios from the same manufacturer may differ in connectors and wire assignments.
• When choosing, you should rely on the capabilities of the car. It is worth thinking about the complex operation of the car after installing the radio.
• There are some nuances for the Soviet automobile industry. For example, in cars of that time, the power wire is energized in any position of the key body, although the contact is connected after the ignition switch. Because of this, the electrical circuit is momentarily interrupted when the key is moved.
• An expensive radio and speakers may not be enough to get clear sound if they are connected by cheap or soldered wires.

According to the standard, power for the radio is supplied using a stranded wire with a diameter of no more than 3 mm. A 10-amp fuse will help completely protect the electrical circuit from emergency situations.

Standard connection diagram

Three main wires are responsible for powering the device. Manufacturers mark them with colors and markings. It is necessary to clarify the purpose of each wire in the connection manual, since even the same manufacturer may have different markings on different products. The standard is considered to be:

• +12V (yellow)–cable of the main power supply of the radio. Serves primarily for the main amplifier and stores device settings. It is advisable that its length be less than 30 cm in order to connect through a fuse to the battery. Voltage must be supplied to it constantly.
• ACC (red)–responsible for turning on the car radio from turning the ignition switch. The main task is to prevent rapid battery discharge. The ACC designation is used for accessories, since it is switched after turning the key and ensures the operation of the heater and radio.
• GND (black)–negative wire, which, ideally, is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. In many cases, the wire contact is stripped and connected directly to the car body.
• ANT (white)– antenna control wire.
• ILL– radio backlight, connected to the dimensions.
• The remaining wires are used to connect speakers or specific functions.

Car radio installation process

Regardless of the location - in a service center or garage - the procedure looks approximately the same for most brands of radio tape recorders. The device is inserted into the standard location, bending the fixing metal petals.

1. The international ISO standard connector is provided on many modern cars. In such a case, the whole task comes down to connecting the contact block of the device to the design connector.
2. Older cars may have a different connection. In this case, experienced craftsmen use two connection methods. Firstly, it is possible to purchase an adapter and connect the necessary contacts. Secondly, a specialist can “bite off” the connectors on the car and the radio, and then connect each wire separately.
3. Older cars may not have a corresponding connector for the car radio. To solve this problem, you need to intervene in the factory layout and carefully lay new wires under the interior trim.

In the case of a pre-provided ISO, installation will take only a few minutes. However, to accurately guarantee serviceability, it is better to entrust the matter to a specialist. Lack of proper experience can lead to shorted wiring or a sloppy appearance.

Connection diagram using ignition switch

The standard instructions outline the connection method using the ignition switch. By default, this method is considered the safest and one of the most economical. The radio will turn on only after turning the key in the ignition, thus not discharging the battery.

To implement it, you need to connect the +12V wire directly to the positive terminal, and connect the second positive wire, which regulates the device’s activation, to the ignition switch. GND must be connected to car ground.

After such an installation, it is possible to use the radio only with the electronics turned on or the engine running, which some motorists consider a disadvantage. However, when parked for a long time, you can be sure that the battery charge will be maintained.

Connection diagram directly to the battery

In many cases, it is possible to connect two positive wires. This connection and connection allows you to use the car radio with the ignition off.

It is necessary to leave the GND wire in contact either with the negative terminal of the battery or with the car body with the contacts stripped. The yellow and red wires need to be connected and connected to the positive terminal of the battery.

When directly connected to the battery, the turned off radio consumes 0.2–1A/h. Such an indicator can lead to rapid battery discharge in a few weeks.

Connection method using a button instead of the ignition switch

Connecting power via a button combines all the advantages of other methods. The presence of an On/Off button allows you to freely regulate the flow of current to the device in various conditions.

The black negative wire, as in many other cases, must be connected to the negative terminal. Further actions are similar to installation using the ignition switch. That is, the yellow wire must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery, and the red wire must be connected to the installed button.

In this case, if necessary, the car owner can turn off the power when parked for a long time. The button connected to the battery is standardly located near the radio console. An additional advantage is the independence from the ignition switch.

Installation method using alarm

Using two five-pin relays and several diodes, you can configure the operation of the radio using an alarm. The sound system is blocked automatically after the alarm is turned on - the power to the radio is turned off.

For the correct operation of such a circuit, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the wiring diagram in the car and a detailed illustration of the operating principle of the device and the security system.

Power monitoring using an alarm helps prevent battery current leakage during long-term parking. Such control leaves only memory power in working condition.

Errors when connecting a car radio

The main problems are related to haste and inattention. Most manufacturers mark the connection diagram of their device on the top cover, which must be read before starting work. You need to understand that you shouldn’t do things “by eye” or relying on intuition. Failure to comply with the rules may result in poor sound quality or malfunction of the entire audio system. If you are not sure about something, it is better to seek help from a specialist. It makes no sense to list all possible causes of errors, but here are the main ones:

• neglect of insulation and use of artisanal methods of working with electrical equipment;
• lack of tools or skills in their use;
• desire to save on wires. For example, on the power cable;
• use of incorrect wires (wrong cross-section or material);
• the desire to do it “in a hurry.”

For long-term and high-quality operation of the audio system in a car, you need to know in detail the structure of the car's wiring and have basic skills in working with electronics. Some tips:

• set phasing before connecting speakers;
• lay wires, unscrew/tighten bolts, work with the tool slowly and carefully;
• do not allow wires to bend;
• upon completion of work, measure the current leakage with a multimeter

• use wires in accordance with the markings.

If you decide to do the installation yourself, it’s better to first see how others do it. There are many introductory videos online where experienced auto electricians demonstrate the technology with their own hands.

Good afternoon. In today's article I will tell you how to connect a car radio in a car and analyze typical errors in connecting radios. Traditionally for our site, the article is equipped with detailed photos and video instructions.

Attention!

If, when connecting, you arrange the so-called. A short circuit can lead to melted wires, burns and, in extreme cases, a fire. Please, when connecting the car radio, be careful, carefully insulate all wire connections and do not forget about the fuse...

To connect the radio we need:

• The car radio itself, the speakers and their wires
• Stationery knife or special knife. tool for removing insulation from wires.
• Insulating tape.
• Fuse (10a-15a) and its connector.
• Multimeter or test light.
• Crown battery

The simplest option is that the car has audio preparation.

Audio preparation – i.e. Special connectors, an antenna are installed in the car's wiring, and speakers are fixed in standard places. For many models, audio preparation is an option, and many owners refuse it in order to reduce the cost of the car when purchasing, but this should not be done, since radio installers will ask for much more money for it.

With factory audio preparation, installing a radio comes down to purchasing an adapter between the wiring connectors and your radio.

Adapters are freely sold in most stores that sell radio tape recorders, but if you want, you can save them order on aliexpress.

The adapters look like this:

The second most difficult option is that the car does not have audio preparation, but a radio tape recorder was previously installed (for example, a cassette).

In this case, you need to replace the radio connector with a new connector (or maybe you’ll be lucky and they will match).

The diagram for connecting a car radio looks like this:

Most likely after you cut off the old radio connector (it’s better to do this with the battery terminal removed). You will have several wires and you need to determine where they are coming from, usually you need to find the permanent positive, positive from the ignition, ground and speakers.

How is this done?

— We expose the wires using a utility knife and arrange them so that they do not short-circuit.

— We put the terminal on the battery.

— We connect one terminal of the test lamp (or multimeter) to the car body (ground) and with the second terminal, sequentially, we touch each of the exposed wires. When the light comes on or the multimeter shows voltage, congratulations, you have found a permanent positive.

— It’s better to immediately twist it with the radio connector (usually the wire is yellow and BAT +12v is written on it) and insulate it with heat shrink or electrical tape. A fuse with a rating of 10-15 amperes must be installed on this wire.

— We are looking for the plus from the ignition switch, to do this we open the lock to the “ignition on” position and similarly, using a multimeter or a light bulb, we look for the required wire. The found wire must be connected to the red wire of the radio connector (usually ACC+ is written on the wire); we do not isolate it yet!

Note (sometimes this wire is connected to a permanent positive, but in this case the radio will drain the battery, since it will not have a standby mode)

— We are looking for ground, to do this we disconnect the control lamp from the body and connect it to the last twist we just made and connect the second terminal of the control (multimeter) in series with the remaining wires. Once the light comes on (or the multimeter shows voltage), you have found ground. We connect it with a twist to the black wire of the radio connector (usually it is labeled gnd, ground)

— We isolate it and the plus from the ignition switch.

All of you can connect the radio. If everything is done correctly, it will light up.... But you also need to connect speakers and an antenna to the radio.

Connecting speakers.

You have 10 wires left. One of them is an antenna cable, one plus antenna power and 8 wires from the speakers.

Wires from speakers usually come in pairs, but their markings are not always correct. Therefore, we need a crown battery.

We attach it to a pair of wires for 1-2 seconds and listen to which speaker clicks. Next, we look at the speaker itself and connect the battery again. If the speaker goes forward, then the polarity is correct, and we screw it + to + and – to -, in accordance with the diagram. If the speaker goes inside, it means the polarity is wrong and we connect it the other way around.

Here's a video on how to determine speaker polarity:

It is very important to monitor the polarity, otherwise the sound in the car will be of very poor quality!

We consistently check and connect all the speakers, front left. Rear left, rear right, front right.

Connecting an antenna usually does not cause any difficulties.

Here is a short video about connecting a car radio, but the red and yellow colors are mixed up (as written correctly in the article):

The third most difficult option is to install a car radio in a car without audio preparation for the first time.

Don't be alarmed, there is a lot less text here since there is no need to determine the purpose of the wires. The labor intensity is higher since we will be laying these wires!

The connection diagram does not change:

• We draw a constant positive from the battery, always through a 10-15 ampere fuse, with a wire of 2.5-4 squares!

There is an option to take a permanent plus from the cigarette lighter, but as practice has shown, usually the cigarette lighter is powered by a 1.5 square meter wire and has a 10 ampere fuse. In my car, when the tire inflation pump was connected and the radio was running, this fuse burned out!

• We look under the panel (for example, on the fuse block or on the ignition switch) for the wire where the plus appears when the ignition is turned on, and accordingly, from there we pull the wire to the plus of the radio, which is responsible for turning it on. You can hook this wire to a permanent plus, but the radio will drain the battery!

• We lay the ground wire and securely fasten it to the body (for example, to fasten a panel to the body)

• We install the speakers in their regular places and lay their wires, be sure to observe the polarity!

• We connect the antenna and its control wire.

The installation of the radio is complete, you have just saved 1.5-3 tr.

The most complex option is that the car radio is installed in a car with non-standard wiring (trucks and vintage cars).

Most car radios are designed for 12 volt power. Most trucks use a voltage standard of 24 volts, so when you connect a 12-volt car radio to a 24-volt network, it will inevitably fail.

Therefore, they connect the car radio to one battery (the one with the minus side attached to the car body), and from its plus they pull the wire into the cab to the radio. This solution does exist, but it has a significant drawback - after 1-2 weeks of inactivity, the battery will be severely discharged and it will be impossible to start the engine without charging it!

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to use a special voltage converter. It looks like this:

Usually they refuse the memory of the radio and connect the device according to this scheme:

As a result, the memory function of the radio will not be used, but it will not drain the battery and, most importantly, there is no need to run a non-standard wire from the battery into the cabin.

The converters themselves are sold in online stores; as an option, consider purchasing on aliexpress.

In the case of vintage cars, non-standard supply voltages (6 volts) or + on the car body are possible. Connecting a car radio in such cars is decided individually each time and has no general recommendations.

That's all for me today. Smooth roads and reliable radios to everyone.

Due to the breakdown of new generation radios with an extensive range of functions or malfunctions, car owners are often faced with the need to replace the speaker system. Knowing the basic principles of installation, the purpose of plugs and wires, you can install the radio yourself without paying for expensive car service services. How to install a radio in a car yourself?

Varieties

There are two main types of car radios, which differ from each other in format and set of multimedia functions.

1. Single-din (1 DIN) or single-block, widespread in Europe and the CIS countries. Its standard size is 17850 mm.
2. Double-din (2 DIN) or double-block, most common in Japan, Korea and America, has a size of 178100 mm.

There is also an intermediate version in 1.5 DIN size 17875, but it is practically not widespread.

The average depth is the same and equals 160 mm.

Please note that older brands of cars may have a standard radio installed. Its dimensions are not suitable for replacement with a 1 DIN or 2 DIN format. To transition from one format to another, use a transition frame. This transition method is also relevant for changing a two-block radio to a single-block one.

When choosing a new speaker system, you need to rely on which socket is in the instrument panel. If the car's configuration requires the use of a single-block radio, then the only correct option would be to purchase a new single-block one. With the intended installation of two-block radios, you can install a radio in 1 DIN and 2 DIN formats.

Plugs

ISO is an international standard established for car wiring and car radio production. The brown plug is responsible for connecting the acoustics, the black one is for powering it.

Standard radios produced for a specific car brand, as well as electrical wiring outputs for cars of various brands, have their own plug format, which will complicate installation a little. If the plug of the purchased speaker system does not match the socket, you should additionally purchase an adapter that will allow you to switch to the international standard. They exist for all car brands and are widely represented in the automotive market.

In some versions, adapters for other car brands may also be suitable. Installing an adapter designed for another car brand will not affect quality or safety in any way. Many manufacturers provide their acoustic products with adapters for the ISO format. If the car's electrical wiring and plug comply with the ISO standard, then to connect you only need to connect them.

Preparatory work

First of all, you need to dismantle the old radio. To do this, you will need two thin metal plates 5 mm wide and a set of screwdrivers. Metal plates for installation and removal are usually also included.

To dismantle, you need to insert metal plates on both sides and open the side petals, unscrew the housing screws. After the completed operations, the radio tape recorder can be easily removed from its installation location and it will be possible to disconnect it from the power supply and connection to the antenna.

After dismantling, you need to inspect in detail the installation site and the connection of the connectors with the vehicle's electrical wiring. This precaution is especially important if the change is made due to the failure of old acoustic equipment. In this case, most likely there are problems with the electrical wiring. If abnormal connections are detected, they must be replaced and corrected in accordance with safety requirements.

Read also

How to install a tablet in a car instead of a radio

If you plan to install a more powerful speaker system, you need to make sure the wires match. Modern powerful radios have a power of 50 watts per channel. The cross-sectional area of ​​the wires for such power cannot be less than 4 mm.

It is better to supply power using separate wiring from the battery. If you draw power from the cigarette lighter, this will not allow you to use the device at full power in the future and will reduce the sound quality. If problems are found with the electrical wiring, they must be corrected before installation to avoid short circuits and failure of the radio.

Installation steps

Installation of radio tape recorders from different manufacturers has common principles. In some car brands, you have to remove the instrument panel trim to gain unhindered access to the installation socket.

1. The package includes frames that are attached to the car console. At the first stage of work, you need to remove the frame from the car radio body and install it in the free space on the panel. To do this, you need to bend the petals of the frame and push it into the seat to the base. Some models provide additional fastening with screws. You can understand the design of the case in detail by carefully reading the instructions for it.
2. You need to pull out all the wiring through the installation window.
3. The contact connection should begin with the power wires. Most models have two contacts. Their wires are highlighted in yellow and red. The first is responsible for power, and the second turns off the work. The yellow wire should be connected to the battery through a special fuse. The red wire connects to the ignition. In this case, the radio will automatically turn off. You can ensure the operation of the acoustics when the ignition is turned off by connecting both contacts in parallel. With this connection, the system will turn off only when you press a special button on the radio panel. To connect to power, you need to combine the outputs of the radio wires with the car's electrical wiring by simply connecting the plugs. If necessary, adapters are installed to combine the plugs. For additional insulation, the wires can be wrapped and connected with electrical tape. This reduces the risk of short circuits and damage. All connections must be carefully checked for strength.
4. The internal part is then connected to the antenna. The antenna wire is most often marked blue, less often white-blue. The output of the antenna wire must be inserted into the corresponding connector on the rear panel of the radio.
5. After all contact connections have been made, the wires are carefully laid deep into the socket on the panel, and the main part is carefully pushed into the installation frame and snapped into place.
6. The last stage of the work is to check the completed installation. You need to turn on the equipment, check the sound and antenna signal.

It's no secret that in the radio, in addition to the positive yellow and negative black power wires, there is also a red ACC wire. Roughly speaking, this is a REM control wire for a radio and performs exactly the same function as REM on amplifiers.

For those who are not at all in the know, the radio, as planned by the manufacturer, must be constantly connected to the battery and be under voltage. The ACC wire is a low-current control circuit that activates and starts the radio. As long as there is no +12 volt on the ACC wire, the radio will not respond to anything, and accordingly, the current consumption of the radio will be measured in tens of milliamps.

When voltage appears on this wire, the radio either starts automatically (if it was turned off by de-energizing this same ACC), or goes into standby mode (if the radio was turned off with a button on the panel or with the remote control).

The main question is that even if the radio is turned off, but the ACC wire is live, then the current consumption of the radio increases by a factor of 10 and will already amount to tenths of an ampere. and this is not so little, especially if your generator is junk and the battery has long been tired.

Based on the above, it becomes clear that you need to figure out how to connect the radio correctly and how not to connect it correctly.

First, let's look at the 2 most stupid and, accordingly, the most common options for connecting a radio. They probably appeared along with the radio tape recorders themselves as a result of the general reluctance of garage installers to read the instructions for the hardware.

Option #1

It’s called “I screwed it up quickly, I’m not going to compete.”

The cigarette lighter circuit is not designed for such bonus loads and when the radio is running it significantly drains the voltage. Collective farm, in short.

Option No. 2

It’s called “So that the mafon goes out when I leave.”

The ACC ignition wire is even less responsive to such a load than the cigarette lighter and the drawdowns will be even greater than in option number one.

Owners of the first two connection options are very easy to meet on all car audio and related resources. They all have standard questions:

“Why doesn’t the car start in the morning after installing the mafon?”

“Why does the radio screen blink and turn off if you turn it on all the way?”

“Why do the radio settings get lost when turned off?”

All these problems are the result of the owner’s crookedness and his conviction that he is smarter than those who wrote the instructions for the GU.

The above options are NOT CORRECT and cannot be connected this way.

The radio in such a connection CANNOT function fully and normally, even if it seems otherwise to you.

Now let's look at options for properly connecting a radio in a car. It’s most logical to start with the connection option, which is described in all instructions for the radios.

This option completely replicates the control of standard radios in foreign cars. A simple, reinforced concrete reliable option, although without the rudiments of convenience. When using this option, it is enough to find the power wire in the car that runs from the battery to the fuse block and plug it into it through a separate yellow power supply wire for the main unit.

This new fuse can be placed either in a free space in the fuse block or near it in a separate holder. This is already creativity.

The red ACC wire is connected to the ACC wire of the ignition switch. Thus, when you turn the key, the radio will start, and when you turn off the ignition, it will turn off. If you turn off the radio with the button, it will remain silent regardless of turning the key and wait for manual start.

The disadvantage of this option is the impossibility of turning on the radio when the car is turned off. This nuance can be considered a price to pay for the ease of connection.

This problem can be solved by the following option:

As you can see in the diagram, this is practically the previous version, but the blue REM wire of the radio and a pair of diodes are already involved.

For those who are not in the know, I’ll explain: A diode is a part that passes electric current only in one direction. If we connect a light bulb to a battery through a diode, then with one polarity the light bulb will light, and if the polarity is changed, the light bulb will go out.

The explanation is very rough, there are a ton of nuances, but we didn’t miss all the subtleties. That's enough)

Any small-sized diodes capable of operating with a voltage of 15 volts or more and a current of up to 0.1 ampere are suitable for the circuit.

In the diagram, diodes are indicated as an arrow with a line. The arrow indicates in which direction the diode will pass current. On the diode itself, the nose of the arrow is tinted with a stripe, or an arrow is drawn directly on the diode. On the diagram, next to the diode symbol, I have added pictures of diodes with the arrangement corresponding to the diagram for convenience.

A few words about how the circuit works:

When you turn the key in the lock, current will flow from the lock through the diode to the ACC contact of the radio. Accordingly, it will start and apply voltage to its REM wire, with which we usually control amplifiers. From the REM wire, current will flow through the second diode again to the ACC contact of the radio.

This way the radio will keep itself turned on and it won’t matter to it whether there is voltage from the ignition switch or not. The diodes in the circuit serve to prevent current from flowing from the lock to the REM contact and from the REM to the lock.

This circuit will already allow you to listen to the radio with the engine turned off. It will be enough just to start it with the key turned. The downside of this connection is that you can simply forget the radio on and it will eat up the battery. Well, the radio will not be able to start automatically when you turn the key. Every time you have to poke it with your hands.

The next three schemes are different variations of the same idea. In all three schemes we use the central locking alarm control unit.

This circuit also practically repeats the previous one, with the only difference that we inserted normally closed relay contacts into the break in the REM wire.

In five-pin automotive relays, the middle contact will always be closed as long as the relay winding is not energized. As soon as the relay clicks, this contact breaks and opens the circuit in which it is located. In our case, a relay that turns on even for a short period of time will turn off the radio. After such a shutdown, the radio will automatically start and continue working as soon as you turn the ignition key. In this case, the key can be pulled out and the phone will continue to work either until manual shutdown or until the car is armed.

In the alarm unit, you will need to find a chip with the outputs of the central locking control relay and determine on which of them, when arming the car, +12 volts appears briefly. Well, accordingly, connect one contact of the relay winding to this wire and the second to the negative wire of the alarm power supply.

The scheme is quite workable. The only negative is that some radios keep voltage on the repair wire for a moment when turned off, and if the signal to the central locking alarm is too fast, the radio will immediately start again. If your car's central locking system allows longer closing pulses, many alarms allow you to increase the pulse time by programming the alarm. In principle, this is not difficult to do for anyone who thoughtfully reads the signaling manual.

If the alarm does not allow you to increase the pulse, or this is not desirable for the operation of the car's central locking, then the following two schemes will suit you. The principle of their operation is identical, only the implementation differs.

There is no need to use REM wire in this circuit. The scheme works as follows:

When you turn the key, voltage is supplied from the ACC wire of the lock to the relay winding, which is accordingly turned on, connecting to the power circuit of the yellow +12V wire of the radio (which, as we remember, is always energized, regardless of the operating mode of the PG). From this moment on, the relay begins to power itself through the second diode and also power the ACC wire of the radio, starting it up. From this moment on, the system does not care about the position of the key in the ignition.

The radio will continue to work, and the diodes will not allow the current to go where it is not needed. The second contact of the relay winding in this circuit is not connected directly to the negative but goes to the alarm unit. Most alarm units have engine blocking control outputs. This control is carried out by interrupting the minus circuit. Let's say a fuel pump blocking relay is installed. The plus from this relay is connected to the ignition switch, and the minus is connected to this negative locking control wire.

Accordingly, the pump will be blocked either by interrupting the plus using a key, or by interrupting the minus using a signal. We are completely satisfied with this mode of operation of this contact and we attach the minus of our relay to this output of the alarm unit.

Thus, when arming the car, the alarm will turn off the minus of our relay, it will turn off and turn off the radio. When disarmed, the minus will appear again, but the system will wait until the key is turned to start.

This option, in my opinion, is the most successful of all those listed. has no shortcomings. The radio starts up when needed and turns off when needed. In addition, it is very convenient to turn off the radio remotely, say in nature. All you need to do is turn the car alarm on and off using the key fob.

Well, the last option is a variation of the symbiosis of the previous two, but without diodes.

Here, when you turn the key, the relay will start and self-energize, simultaneously starting the radio. When arming, the second relay will interrupt the self-energizing of the relay and the system will turn off.

The capacitor in the first relay circuit is needed so that the relay can charge without external voltage. When the relay starts, the contact comes off one side and it needs time to reach the second side and be powered from it. During this moment, the relay will be powered by a capacitor, which will have time to charge when you turn the key. Without a capacitor, you will only hear TRRRRRRRRRR from the relay and the system will not work))) For this circuit, a capacitor of 1000 uF 16 volts is sufficient.

These are the options for every taste and color)) Choose what you like. On my own behalf, I can only advise you not to rush and figure out how to implement the chosen option. There is nothing terrible in any of them, even from a person far from radio engineering. It’s enough to just get into it and figure it out.

Well, the most important thing is not to rush into this matter.

Now, as promised, a few words, for those who bought a radio and were planning to “quickly” test it.

Oddly enough, when checking quickly, the most important thing is not to rush))) According to statistics, 50% of the equipment dies during testing and the first connection.

Before checking the equipment, you need to avoid any possibility of short circuiting any wires. This is especially important when checking used radio tape recorders, from which a broom of stripped and disheveled wires sticks out. Don’t be lazy and insulate with electrical tape all the wires that are not needed for testing and all the twists that you have made. Even if you “put everything separately” and “I’ve done this a hundred times and it’s fine.”

There is always room for chance and there is always a risk that something will fall or slip and instead of a new goodie, you will instantly get smoking scrap metal. As practice shows, such cases are not at all paranoid fiction. In my memory alone, several people have lost amplifiers and subwoofers precisely because something jumped off or came off during testing.

Hence, by the way, the second point. If you need to twist it to check, do it thoughtfully and firmly. It’s better to have fun unwinding it later, but so that it doesn’t fall apart when everything is under tension.

The third point and rule: check the correct connection and polarity of the power supply three times!

Even if you have already checked everything and everything is ok, just before connecting, look at everything again. Very often, just at the last check, a connection jamb is revealed, which could kill the piece of hardware literally in a moment.

Well, one more tip: to check the equipment, choose a flat, spacious place with easy access for you.

Do not check the glands with cancer hanging in the trunk and sorting through the snake tangle of the collective farm installation. Do not test equipment on a workbench littered with junk. There have been cases of equipment being damaged by moving or falling junk piled up on the surface you chose for testing.

Don't neglect these simple and not tricky little tricks. They are guaranteed to save you time, money and nerves.

During the time that a car enthusiast uses his car, he is constantly ready to improve something and make changes. One of these improvements can be considered the installation of a radio. Considering that old cars were rarely equipped with a standard system, this issue is acute. And new cars can rarely boast of a high-quality system, so many people wonder whether to change the radio. We will tell you how to install and connect everything correctly to make it safe in this article.

Nowadays it’s rare to find a car that doesn’t have an audio system at all, because music can brighten up the road. It prevents the driver from falling asleep, which is not an unimportant plus. In modern audio systems, you can listen to music from well-known media, such as a flash drive, disks, or telephone. In addition, more expensive models can be equipped with full screens, with video support, TV viewing, and even a navigation function. Of course, such equipped modules are much more expensive and require special skills from the owners, which many do not have, and are forced to turn to specialists for connection.

But those who choose a budget option can easily handle the connection on their own. If hands, as they say, grow from the place from which they are required, then problems with installation should not arise. After all, it is enough to have a minimal understanding of how the car’s electrical system works, to be able to connect wires, and to have a little accuracy.

How to connect?

To work, you will most likely need pliers, a screwdriver, electrical tape, a multimeter (optional), and also care when dismantling the decorative panels of the interior. When replacing an old radio with a new system, there should be no problems, because the speakers are installed, all that remains is to simply replace the device itself. All you have to do is check the integrity of the wiring, as well as the correct connection of the speakers.

The only problem may arise if the new audio system has different connectors for connection. But, as a rule, there is a single world standard, namely the ISO connector. But, if something happens, you can always buy the required adapter; there is plenty of such “good” in stores and markets. It is possible that the new radio already comes with several adapters; carefully inspect the contents of the box.

When you first connect the radio, pay attention to which wires are suitable; they must be made of oxygen-free copper, with a corresponding cross-section of 2-4 mm.

Connecting a car radio

Let's look at the most basic connection examples. There are only four of them, each has its own list of pros and cons; based on them, decide for yourself what will be more important for you. Any modern radio has two positive wires, yellow and red. The main wire, this is the memory, is responsible for saving all the radio settings; most often it is connected to the “minus”. The red wire is the “power” wire, it is responsible for turning it on. There is also a black wire (negative) that is connected to the body.

Through the ignition switch

This method is considered the safest and optimal. Each radio comes with instructions that describe this type of connection. But, despite the positive aspects that most car enthusiasts agree on, there is also a minus, namely the inability to listen to music without the ignition or engine on. Connecting according to this scheme is the simplest; you need to connect the yellow wire (plus) to the positive terminal of the battery. The black wire is to the ignition switch, it is responsible for turning it on. And minus to the weight of the car. With this type of connection, you don’t have to worry about the battery running out.

Directly

This type is the most common due to ease of installation. The black wire is connected to the ground of the car, the yellow and red wires are connected together and connected to one positive terminal. You can listen to music even without the ignition, but do not forget that this method leads to battery discharge, even when the radio is turned off.

Connecting to a button

With this method, we make the connection using the ignition. The only difference is that the red wire will not be connected directly to the lock, but to the button, which in turn goes to the battery positive. The advantage of this type of connection is obvious; it is the ability to turn off the current to the radio during long-term parking. It is also possible to listen to music without ignition.

Via alarm

Drivers often wonder if they turned off the music when they went shopping and came home. The principle of connection is that the audio system will be turned on and off by the alarm. This type of connection also reduces current leakage, since when an alarm is set, the radio is automatically disconnected from the power supply. In order to connect you will need two relays with five contacts and a pair of diodes. You can find a specific installation diagram on the Internet for each car, because the type of connection may differ significantly. Since different cars and alarm types have their own color scheme of wires.

Conclusion

Regardless of the type of connection, remember that you must include one fuse (10-20A) in the circuit. Perhaps it is already provided in the car itself or in the radio of more expensive models.