Learning to start quickly.

The main mistake is slipping of the drive wheels (when the car is standing still and the drive wheels are rotating). If you don’t allow it on any surface, be it asphalt or ice, then consider that you already have a piece of skill. How to learn this? On a flat road, preferably in an unloaded car (with a manual transmission), at idle engine speed, engage 1st gear and start the first movement without pressing the accelerator pedal at all, i.e. using only the clutch pedal. When the car starts moving (idle speed), stop it by “pressing the clutch” and repeat again. Is it working out? Try the same thing, but using 2nd gear. Don't overdo it! It worked two or three times - that's enough!
With this start of movement, your drive wheels will not slip - the engine power will not be enough and, in extreme cases, it will simply stall. In ordinary life, of course, we won’t start moving like this, except in rare cases when it’s very slippery. The conclusion is simple: the lower the engine speed when starting to move, the greater the likelihood that there will be no slipping! To make it easier for the car to start moving, the front wheels must be set strictly straight!
But how can you accelerate quickly on slippery ice? More on this below.
The start of movement or “acceleration”, to put it simply. Many will even name the necessary components - weather-appropriate tires, a powerful engine - and they will be right, but only partly. What else is important to know, and most importantly, to be able to do?
We dare to remind you that the main mistake is, firstly, the drive wheels of your car slipping in place. The car is not straight in relation to the direction of travel, and the front wheels are turned (not strictly straight). This is second. How to learn to feel the beginning of slipping? A simple exercise, with the start of movement without “gas”, we think, did not cause any great difficulties.
Let's move on.

Lesson two. Subtle sensations.
The car is standing on level ground with the engine running. Engage 1st gear and begin to slowly release the clutch pedal. There will come a moment when your car, before starting to move, will seem to “stress.” Pay attention to this, you should try to feel it!
After the moment of “tension”, if you release the clutch a little more, the movement will begin. But, as soon as the car makes an impulse to move and the wheels turn slightly, press the clutch just enough so that it stops and the “tension” is eliminated. Doing this non-stop will cause the car to rock in place. The smaller the amplitude, the better! Ideally, the tires stay in place, and the wheel rim barely turns back and forth.
The exercise can be performed at any time and anywhere, it is absolutely safe. Now you know exactly how your clutch works and in what range. By the way, all of the above can be done in a car with automatic transmission.
The next stage of training and sensations. The car is standing still, you increase the engine speed to any value (for example, 2,500 rpm) and hold it for a long time. It is better to do this by looking at the device - a tachometer, if there is one, and if not, then by ear. Your task is to engage 1st gear and start moving, maintaining the engine speed that you set before. From the beginning to the end of the exercise, the speed is the same - it does not fall or rise. It is better to do this on an area where there is no traffic of cars and pedestrians. During your first attempts, it is better to look at the tachometer, again, if you have one. You need to start with a slight increase in speed and, as you progress, complicate the task by increasing it. It is important to pay attention to the speed at which the clutch pedal is released, namely: try to do this as quickly as possible.
If everything is done absolutely correctly, then the car accelerates quickly and without slipping, and the higher the engine speed that you hold, the faster. There comes a time when execution becomes impossible due to slippage. Most often, this means that for a given road surface you have crossed the limit of what is permitted and the engine speed is too high. The conclusion is simple: the higher the coefficient of adhesion, the higher the speed for fast acceleration we can afford!
By accelerating in this way, you begin to detect the beginning of slipping, if you make a mistake - this is the uniqueness of the exercise.

Tricks of acceleration and starting movement.
1. If you need to win the “start”, then the maximum form of your readiness for this is when the engine speed is selected correctly, the front wheels are straight, and the car is barely noticeably swaying in place (see Exercise above);

2. When starting to move, the vehicle's center of gravity moves rearward, loading the rear wheels. If the car has rear-wheel drive, this increases the acceleration efficiency, and if it has front-wheel drive, it reduces it (the front, driving wheels are loaded). Using the technique of rocking in place, i.e. By moving the car back and forth, you also move the center of gravity back and forth. By taking advantage of its movement (depending on the type of drive of your car), you can increase the efficiency of the starting moment, and even on a very slippery road you can start moving without slipping.

There is tons of information on the Internet about how to start correctly from a low start. Detailed video tutorials and entire PhD dissertations on the topic. But there is very little information about how to get off to a good start.

Working as a coach, I often encounter the fact that my students cannot fulfill the standard for short-distance running, not because they do not have enough strength, but because they spend too much time on starting acceleration, losing up to one and a half seconds in this component.

Therefore, today I will tell you the main features of a high start. I would like to note that this technique is suitable for short distance running. The body position remains the same as described in the article, but the starting movements will be slightly different.

Correct body position.

The first mistake novice runners make when starting from a high start is that they choose the wrong position of their body and legs.

In the photo you see the start of the race at. The most correct position at the high start was taken by the leftmost athlete.

First, the body and shoulders should be directed in the direction of movement. A common mistake is when the body is positioned sideways. This makes you waste time spinning your body during the start.

Secondly, one arm should be in front in a bent state, and the other should be brought back in an almost straight position. This will give additional explosive power, namely during the start, quickly throwing out the arms will also help accelerate the body. And don’t be confused, if you have a pushing leg on the left, then your left arm should be behind the body, and the right one will be bent in front of the body and vice versa.

Third, don't get your legs mixed up. When you approach the treadmill, you, by inertia, put forward the leg that is the pusher. Therefore, obey your inner feelings. If you switch your legs and end up with your push leg behind you, this will also cause you to lose seconds at the start. Every person has an imbalance in the development of their limbs. One leg or arm is always slightly stronger than the other. This must be used. That’s why the concept of a push leg exists.

Fourthly, you need to lean forward a little. This is a kind of imitation of a low start. This will help you extend your hip more when starting.

Getting started at high start

The most important thing is to correctly use the correct position of the body. Because even in this situation, without knowing the specifics of the start, you can start running incorrectly.

1. It is necessary to move the thigh of the back leg forward as quickly and as quickly as possible. In general, in essence, a sprint is a movement forward followed by placing the foot on the foot. The faster you extend your hip, the faster you run. And this especially needs to be done at the start in order to accelerate your body from zero speed.
2. The supporting pushing leg should push off as hard as possible and at a certain moment should fully straighten.

The photo below shows the phase when the athlete has already pushed off and brought his hip forward. That is, the leg that is currently in front of him was behind him at the start. The supporting leg, which is now behind you, as you can see, is completely straightened. No need to think about this straightening. But you need to push off so that it straightens. This is done automatically.

What NOT to do during the start

1. There is no need to shorten your steps. The more and further you extend your hip, the better. You can’t do this while running, as in this case there is a chance that you will put your foot in front of you, and not under you. And thereby, on the contrary, slow down. But during the start, when your body is tilted forward and, no matter how much you want, you cannot move your hip further than your body is. Thus, at the start, extend your hip as much as possible.
2. Sleep. And I'm not talking about a late start. The main thing is to explode from the very first seconds. I have often come across the fact that instead of going all out from the very start, some runners try to save energy on acceleration. This is completely stupid. You need to spend all the energy you have on overclocking.
3. Don't put your back foot too far or too close. One to one and a half feet between the legs is enough. Setting your foot too far will slow your hip extension. And if you put it too close, you won’t be able to push off normally.

Try to practice the start. Go out to the stadium and run 10-15 meters, practicing your start. Until you bring it to full understanding. It often happens that a person tries to improve his physical qualities in order to pass the standard. And all he needs to do is set the start.
To improve your results in middle and long distance running, you need to know the basics of running, such as proper breathing, technique, warming up, the ability to do the right approach for race day, do the right strength work for running and others.. For site readers, video lessons are completely free . To receive them, just subscribe to the newsletter, and in a few seconds you will receive the first lesson in the series about the basics of proper breathing while running. Subscribe here: . These lessons have already helped thousands of people, and they will help you too.

The moment of starting a car at a traffic light is, without exaggeration, the worst dream of a novice motorist. Well, at first it’s impossible to start without stalling a couple of times. At some stage, all this even looks like some kind of conspiracy, which millions are silent about. But it’s quite simple to understand how to properly start with a manual transmission. You just need to learn some rules and practice for a few days in different conditions.

The essence of the problem for beginners is that driving instructors teach them to start only with the clutch itself, without using the accelerator pedal

How to learn how to get started correctly with a manual transmission

The essence of the problem for beginners usually lies in the fact that driving instructors teach them to start only with the clutch itself, without using the accelerator pedal. In practice, such a technique quickly discredits itself, since its relevance ends where regular road traffic begins with the participation of a huge number of other cars.

In addition, the clutch on different cars can be configured differently. If this approach works on an empty, flat, strictly horizontal road, then when driving up a hill or at a busy intersection, additional skills are simply needed.

How to start with a manual transmission: Video tutorial

Some nuances of the correct starting from a place

So, let’s imagine that our car is in “handbrake” (the handbrake is on), the engine is running, and the gear lever is in neutral. In general, before starting the engine, you should always check whether the neutral position is turned on. Otherwise, you can turn the ignition key and immediately drive into a neighboring car or pole, for example.

When the engine is warmed up, the driver is fastened, you can start driving. To do this, press the clutch pedal all the way with your left foot and engage the first gear of the gearbox with your right hand. After this, you need to remove the car from the handbrake, turn on the turn signal if necessary and gradually begin to release the clutch pedal.

Having brought the pedal to the so-called “grabbing moment,” it’s time to stop its movement for a second and “push the gas” a little using the accelerator pedal. An increase in crankshaft speed to 1000-1500 rpm will be clearly visible on the tachometer. It’s not worth raising the speed higher, 2500-3000 rpm is already too much, leave such starts to careless street racers who are ready to change the clutch after every “traffic light” race.

It is very important to monitor the tachometer needle, since the operation of the engine cannot always be heard by ear. Also note that the correct dosage of effort on the gas pedal in this case is almost a jewelry job, so at first completely forget about shoes with hard soles, and especially with heels. The best option is elastic sneakers. There are even special models for driving.

In general, when you lightly press the gas pedal, the car should start moving. Without fully releasing the clutch pedal, you need to drive 3-4 meters. This is called "half-clutch riding" when the clutch plate is not fully pressed against the flywheel and may slip. After this, you can completely release the clutch, increase the pressure on the accelerator pedal and raise the engine speed to shift into second gear.

Ideally, releasing the clutch pedal and pressing the gas should occur smoothly and synchronously, this will eliminate the possibility of slipping and squealing tires when starting. A car stalls, as a rule, for the reason that the amount of fuel mixture for the engine to operate does not increase in time, causing the power unit to “suffocate”, unable to cope with the load.

We set off up the hill, helping ourselves with the handbrake

If on level ground you can practice the starting moment for a long time and safely, then when starting up a hill you should be especially careful and be sure to use the basic skills you have already acquired. In this case, the risk of a rollback is added to the negative influence factors. As a result, the novice driver holds the car on the slope with the brake pedal, and when the green light turns on, he frantically puts his right foot on the gas, hoping to make it in time, and stalls, rolling back. Of course, none of those waiting behind will like this situation. Therefore, you need to train in deserted places so as not to create an emergency situation.

When you approach an intersection or stop for any other reason on an incline, you need to immediately tighten the handbrake cable. To start, you need to do everything as in the case of starting on a flat road, but release the handbrake only at the moment when the gas pedal is already lightly pressed. You can understand that the handbrake needs to be lowered by the characteristic rush of the car forward; a slight vibration occurs; due to the increase in pressure in the area of ​​traction of the wheels with the road, the rear of the car will squat slightly.

When you approach an intersection or stop for any other reason on an incline, you need to immediately tighten the handbrake cable.

After practicing a few times, you will already know when this moment comes. That is, the car is released from the brake when the gas pedal is partially pressed and the clutch pedal is partially released. After driving a few meters in half-clutch, you can completely release the leftmost pedal.

Separately, a few words need to be said about the difficulties when removing the wheels from the hand brake. This is due to the load on the teeth of the drive lever. It happens that it’s time to get moving, but the button doesn’t want to be pressed with your thumb. In such cases, you just need to pull the handle up a little. This will ease the pressure on the mechanism, thereby allowing you to easily remove the handbrake and drive with half-clutch.

How to do this without a handbrake

It must be said that using the handbrake when starting up a hill is not a prerequisite. However, if the slope is steep, even experienced drivers do this. Well, when the horizontal deviation is small, then you can really limit yourself to simply “catching” the car with the clutch. The whole point of mastery is to know at what point in the clutch pedal travel the treasured “grasping moment” occurs.

If the position is chosen correctly, then when the foot brake is released, the vehicle will not go backwards, but will “freeze” in place. But there remains a risk of the engine stopping due to lack of speed. Therefore, while holding the car with the clutch, you need to immediately move your right foot from the brake to the accelerator pedal and add speed. The car must move, then everything is done according to the standard.

A burned clutch is a common technical problem faced by inexperienced drivers.

A burned clutch is a very common technical problem that inexperienced drivers have to deal with. This usually happens when the flywheel rotation speed is too high when the driven disk is mated. As a result, contact is impossible due to increased speed, as a result of which the surfaces instantly overheat and lose their properties.

To prevent this from happening, you need to prohibit yourself from accelerating too much when starting off, raising the speed to 3-4 thousand.

When the car begins to roll back, it is important to understand that the problem is not so much in the gas pedal being pressed poorly, but rather in the clutch not being released enough. As a result, the novice presses on the gas by mistake, the engine literally bursts from unrealized power, after which the clutch pedal is released, and this causes the unit to burn.

Learn to guess when the clutch “grabs”

To minimize the number of engine stalls, develop the habit of depressing the clutch pedal when the engine compartment begins to cramp. The reflex of squeezing the clutch will help constantly - at traffic lights, during sudden braking, while parking, etc. During training, your body will remember the signs of partial mating of the clutch elements and will automatically be able to send impulses to your brain, indicating the need to press the gas and further movement with the clutch fully released.

Leaving the pit, entering the curb

Another point that requires clarification is starting in conditions where one or more wheels are in some kind of depression, for example, in a regular road opening or puddle.

Of course, there is no way to get out here with just the clutch, but even the “on duty” thousand revolutions of the crankshaft may not give the expected result. In this case, you can try to slightly increase the speed (up to 1500-1700 rpm) by pressing the gas pedal a little harder in parallel with releasing the clutch.

The same applies to driving onto a small hill, for example a curb. Otherwise, there will be either overheating of the clutch or stalling of the engine. If you are experiencing difficulties, it is better to use the help of a friend who can swing the body from the outside or sit behind the wheel for you.

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Good afternoon, Autokadabrovsk residents!

Drag in small towns is often associated with collective farm tuning... Muscovites, Lada cars covered with "street racing" stickers and so on. I won’t discuss them for a long time, I’ll move on to another association: people who come to races in standard economy class cars with a small engine. In fact... it's not a sport. The standard 1.6 engine does not shine with crazy dynamics, so these races look meager. But still... young people, having bought a car that they can afford, want to get their portion of adrenaline. Since there is no Evo or Subaru hidden somewhere in the garage, they drive what they bought - often a budget sedan with a 1.5 engine. In most cases, rivals with almost similar cars go to the start line with such young people... standard ones, or at best with a fast and furious sticker on their front car. But it often turns out that the opponent is somehow more prepared...or luck...or whatever, and in the end our young people lose at 1.5, which unfortunately affects their morale =)

Just for those brave, young and adrenaline-hungry people, I would like to write a couple of tips, or rather, what to do so that the car can outrun similar rivals and not look like a piece of shit... and all this without investing money? Let's consider the problem on cars of the Lanos-Aveo-Logan-2109-Kalina-Priora class with 1.4-1.6 engines. Often the time of such cars for 402 meters is about 17-18 seconds.

In fact, in Drag there are 2 main factors that are almost equal: power and weight. by losing 70-100 kg of weight you can beat a completely similar opponent at the finish line. Without changing anything else.
Conclusion: spare tire, instrument, seats, music - leave it in the garage. We fill the tank with no more than 5-7 liters of gasoline. Of course, it is also advisable to replace all heavy body parts that can be removed and replaced. Example: a spoiler weighing 30 kg is not useful =)

40% of success in drag is the start, which includes reaction time and the quality of the start itself. Since all the cars that I listed above are front-wheel drive, the start becomes even more important, because the front-wheel drive grip is a thin thing.
Conclusion: before the races, go to a site with a surface that is as close as possible to what will be at the races (usually concrete) and select the engine speed for the start - for example, if you hold the clutch depressed at the start at 2500 and at the moment of the go-ahead release the clutch, the engine will seize up, the revs will drop and the start will be lost. If you keep it at 5000, when you release the clutch, the wheels will fly into the axle box, the engine will go into cutoff and, accordingly, the start is lost. Given the selected weight and coating, you need to find the optimal speed, at which there will be minimal slippage and minimal loss of speed. As soon as the engine and wheel speeds equalize after releasing the clutch, press the pedal to the floor.
Possible start from 2nd gear (more details in the section about wheels)

3. Switching

Accordingly, since the arrival time is 16-18 seconds, the time of each gear change plays a big role. If you reduce the switching time by 2 times, you can reduce the time it takes to complete the route from 0.5 to 1.5 seconds! Which is equal to a body and a half at the finish line.
Conclusions: In vegetable cars, the gearbox is designed for the city, so first gear is usually very short. The general principle is:
- if maximum engine power develops at 5000 rpm, then switch at 5500-5800 (first gear can be switched to second earlier, at 4800-5000)
- we train well to change gears as quickly as possible, especially from 2nd to 3rd
- if you don’t mind the gearbox, then there is a sure-fire method of winning on the body - shifting without releasing the gas: at the moment of shifting, without removing your feet from the slipper to the floor, we hit the clutch and drive in the desired gear. For people who have gotten the hang of switching, there is no loss of speed or traction when switching like this at all, they only feel a stab in the back =)
- if there are 10-20 meters left to the finish line, and it’s time to switch to 4th, add third to the cutoff, the result will be better than wasting time on switching (taking into account that we still release the gas)

4. Wheels

Of course, good tires are the key to good grip and safe braking at the end. Wheel size also plays a role, so we have...
Conclusions: be sure to have good tires on the drive axle. Alternatively, you can install wheels of a smaller diameter or tires with a lower profile, which will increase the gear ratio. This way you can start in 2nd gear and benefit by keeping the engine more in the maximum power range. Although on some cars it is more useful to install wheels of larger diameter, which entails an “extension” of first gear. Here it’s already at random

We are considering dredging without capital investment, because: good oil, good gasoline, a zero filter, and, if desired, a full-fledged direct-flow exhaust. POSSIBLE chip tuning... only if it is a proven master and proven firmware. And so... we have a car for trips around the city and to work, so we don’t get into the engine.

6. Air resistance

Of course, with a 1.6 engine we will not reach the finish line at breakneck speed, but still 120-140 can be accelerated if the start is successful, therefore it is advisable to remove elements that negatively affect aerodynamics.
Conclusions: fold the mirrors, remove the huge spoiler, throw out the fake air intakes. You won't notice a significant difference... but maybe it will add 0.15 seconds... for some this is a big improvement.

That's all. By adhering to such advice, you can, with a 100% guarantee, overtake similar cars by 402 meters, or even a class higher.

Good luck on the roads and victories in races =)

p.s. of course, first post, all business =))) Thank you for your attention"

How to start on a motorcycle correctly. Today we will focus on one more exercise that will allow us to start moving. Let's talk about the starting technique.

Today we will focus on one more exercise that will allow us to start moving. Let's talk about the starting technique. Initially, we will divide this exercise into two. In the first case, I will tell you how to get started for those who have never ridden a motorcycle at all, and in the second, how to go very quickly for those who have already ridden a lot on a 2-wheeled friend. If you are already moving away, then feel free to skip the first part of the article and move on to the second.

First, what is common between the two articles:

We sit on the motorcycle so that the supporting leg is the right one and the left one is on the footrest. The next step is to press the clutch and engage first gear. The pin is broken, we don’t release the clutch.

We swap our legs, now we have the left one supporting, and the right one standing on the footrest. It is from this position that we must learn to start.

We squeeze the tank with our knees.

This landing is due to the fact that under the right leg there is a rear brake, which we will use in 2 cases. The first is a downhill start, let go and go, and the second is a critical case when you accidentally revved up the gas, dropped the clutch and the motorcycle started moving on the rear wheel. It sounds fantastic, but this is not such a rare case in my practice, you need to be prepared for it at least mentally, and the option of getting confused or not depends on your perception of the world and the functioning of the nervous system. In this case, we simply press the rear brake and “gently” 🙂 put the motorcycle back on the asphalt. The options to close the gas and lower the motorcycle in this way can be considered unsuccessful, simply because you are hanging by your hands.

To illustrate how much stress will be placed on your arms, you can try hanging on a horizontal bar and simulating closing the throttle by simply pulling yourself up with one hand.

Part one, how to get started for beginners.

This is not possible in principle, due to the large overload at the moment of start, so instead of closing the gas, you will only open it more until you turn over. In general, we are mentally accustomed to the fact that we start with our right foot on the step and keeping the weight of the motorcycle on our left leg. The next step is to smoothly and slowly lower the clutch until the motorcycle starts moving. At this moment we stop the clutch and continue to hold it in this middle position and move more slowly with the motorcycle. If you don’t have the starting skills yet, then you can move with both feet on the asphalt, slowly step from foot to foot at the speed of a motorcycle. Then we release the clutch even more and again hold it in this position until we reach the point where the clutch is completely released. So let's go... Now we drive 5-7 meters and stop, turn on neutral, change legs and release the controls. We repeat until you move away confidently.

The next step is to learn how to do the same thing, but with the gas slightly open. The clutch operating technique is exactly the same, but you can add gas a little from the spot. RPM at 1000-1500. And we always start like this, both in the city and in training. This is what needs to be achieved in the end.

The second part is already for those who confidently ride a motorcycle.

We will focus on how to properly start from a place and leave quickly. The basis of a proper start is landing on a motorcycle. We tilt the body forward and lie down on the tank, loading the front wheel with our weight.

We rest on the footrest of our right foot and stand a couple of centimeters forward to load it even more and thereby load the front axle and raise the speed. Ideally, the gas rises to the maximum torque of the motorcycle, but in the first stages it must be raised before reaching this mark, about a third of the tachometer. In more detail: if you have maximum torque at 8000 rpm, then the first times we start with 5, then 6, and so on until we reach 8 thousand. Our task is to ensure that the front wheel of the motorcycle rises no higher than 15 centimeters at the start, otherwise the engine power will be spent on lifting the motorcycle, instead of pushing it forward.

It is better to start with the rear wheel slipping than to raise the motorcycle high into the sky at the start and lose a lot of time. So we raised the speed and released the clutch... at this moment we move forward even more in order to load the unloaded front end even more. And add gas. We don’t drop the clutch, but rather release it smoothly but quickly. From the outside it looks like a thrown clutch. If we abandon it, we lose the ability to control the process. You should avoid etching the clutch to avoid burning it. That is, in one quick movement we release the handle. At the moment when the clutch engages and the motorcycle starts moving, the engine speed will drop by several thousand due to the load. We need to raise the speed. The task is to ensure that when the clutch is lowered the speed does not drop. That is, at the moment when the load on the clutch appears, we need to add gas speed. The picture should look like this: clutch, gear, raise the speed, release the clutch and at this very moment we add gas. That is, the arrow does not fall down, but only goes up. And let's go...

P.S. Do this exercise carefully, because we are not responsible for possible falls while practicing this exercise.