The story of the owner of Lada 21093i - electrical and electronics. It's minus outside. The battery charge indicator is asking for charging. It is not surprising that after sitting for 2 days at ~ -7, I did not start. 🙁 Well, that’s not what we’re talking about. There is such a memory device "Rassvet-2", I did not find information about whether the "control" button should be pressed. So, for those who are faced with the same question: - the button is not pressed...

Lada 2109 YNWA › Logbook › Battery and charger Rassvet-2

Stary Oskol, Russia

The battery charge indicator is asking for charging.

It is not surprising that after being idle for 2 days

Well, that's not what we're talking about.

There is such a memory "Dawn-2", I couldn’t find any information about whether the “control” button should be pressed.

So, for those who are faced with the same question:

The button is not pressed and should not be pressed.

Turn on auto mode and forget about calculating time and current.

The charger charges in pulses, the indicator is green again, the density is normal.

Read also

Let's see how it behaves.

We check our batteries before winter.

All the best and easy start.

Lada 2109 2004, petrol engine 1.5 l., 78 l. p., front drive, manual transmission - electrics and electronics

How to charge a car battery with the RASSVET 2 device

Battery, charging, charger, dawn 2, lead, plates, ampere, current, force, voltage,

Selecting a charger. Reviews. How to charge the battery with a charger

Which one to buy charger for charging a car battery. Whatever is not expensive and good...

Comments 45

Good day. I came across your article about the miracle of a memory, I have the same one. Right now I’m trying to charge a 77 Ah battery, but the catch is that the charger is designed for up to 60. A question has arisen. If I set the charge to 6 A and in auto mode. Can I charge a 77 Ah battery? Thank you in advance.

Of course, I’m not an arrested electrician, so correct me if I’m wrong...

60 or 77 Ah is the battery capacity.

There is no limitation on the capacity of the batteries being charged.

There is an indicator of the maximum current output from the charger, but these are slightly different things.

Set the mode to “auto” and don’t bother with the current strength and calculating the charging time.

Read also

The charger charges perfectly with impulses.

And the capacity suggests that at the same current strength, 60ah will charge faster than 77ah.

It's like filling a 10L and 15L bucket with a 1L bottle.

A 15L bucket will contain more bottles, which will take more time.

This would make it completely clear)

Explained clearly, much more clearly.

At dawn2, with the button pressed, auto mode or vice versa

The plugs are unscrewed only to add distilled water or control the charging mode. If the electrolyte does not cover the plates by 1 cm, then only to inspect that the plates are covered with electrolyte.

All banks have special drainage holes for hydrogen to escape during charging, so I never leave the holes open for monitoring and topping up while charging the battery.

If these holes did not exist, the batteries would swell on the car during a trip, because charging occurs almost constantly after the engine is started.

Don't you need to unscrew or loosen the plugs? will not explode from detonating gas?

I unscrewed it completely, just threw it on top without screwing it onto the thread.

At the same time the charger. Operating instructions for charger dawn 2.

Of course, I’m not an undercover electrician, so correct me if I’m wrong. 60 or 77 Ah is the battery capacity. There is no limitation on the capacity of the batteries being charged. There is an indicator of the maximum current output from the charger, but these are slightly different things.

Set the mode to “auto” and don’t bother with the current strength and calculating the charging time. The charger charges perfectly with impulses. And the capacity suggests that at the same current strength, 60ah will charge faster than 77ah.

It's like filling a 10L and 15L bucket with a 1L bottle. A 15L bucket will contain more bottles, which will take more time. This would make it completely clear) Good luck. The plugs are unscrewed only to add distilled water or control the charging mode. If the electrolyte does not cover the plates by 1 cm, then only to inspect that the plates are covered with electrolyte.

All banks have special drainage holes for hydrogen to escape during charging, so I never leave the holes open for monitoring and topping up while charging the battery. If these holes did not exist, the batteries would swell on the car during a trip, because charging occurs almost constantly after the engine is started.

Please help me find a fault in the Rassvet-2 charger. I found only a diagram on the net; I couldn’t find any descriptions or operating instructions.

The bottom line is this: When the device is turned on, the “network” LED lights up, the voltage at the transformer output is normal. In automatic mode, charging does not “start”. In manual mode, when the charge current increases by more than 1A (on the potentiometer scale), charging does not occur, but if you press the “control” button, the “charge” LED lights up and charging occurs. In automatic mode, when you press the “control” button, the “charge” LED starts blinking, and when you release the button, it goes out. The transistors and diodes rang, everything seems to be working properly. Replaced electrolytes.

I don’t want to stupidly change all the elements. Maybe someone has experience repairing this device, or any thoughts on further actions? It is advisable to set the current on a discharged battery, and the pulse switching voltage on a charged one (on a discharged battery the pulse is supplied according to a different principle), according to the instructions 13.9+-0.5. At 25 degrees (at home), my charged one gives a pause of 1.5 minutes. In this case, the cutoff is 13.95 V, at the peak of the pulse - 16.2. In the video, the battery is not yet fully charged, so there is a short pause. For complete peace of mind, set it to 13.8 V - this is the minimum voltage produced by the regulator in the car.

And the pause will depend on the condition of the battery, the self-discharge is greater - the pause is shorter, and on other circumstances, calcium there, silver, etc. I have a Ca-Ca battery Titan Asia 47 ah.

Good day. I have a Dawn 2 charger. I've been using it for a very long time. I gave it to friends to use.

The other day I discovered that the charger does not work and does not charge. I discovered a break in the circuit. I found a diagram on the Internet and downloaded it.

According to the diagram, I found a break and soldered it. Now the memory works constantly, either in manual mode or in automatic mode. I tried adjusting R-20, but there was no result. Either it's constantly charging, or it turns off and won't turn on.

Voltage 14 - 17.6v. If anyone can tell me.

I don’t want to stupidly unsolder all the transistors and condensers for testing. I downloaded the diagram here.

Vitek74, IMHO It’s quite easy to check. Connect a charger to the Maxim that limits the voltage threshold when charging (to be set by hand) and set the current to 5A (Coulomb type) and see how the charger resets the charge current during charging. If the current does not decrease for a long time and remains at 5A, then ext. The battery resistance does not increase and the battery takes current well and charges. And do the same on any other battery (also 2 years old like Torkon’s and never seen a charger - it’s clear that we can’t achieve the same conditions) and see how things will be there.

But no one will do this. Again, in the docks to Maxim they recommend charging with high currents of 10-30A. Others do not have such recommendations (Charge current is 1 10 times the capacity). Post edited by Zamok: 02 February 2014 - 15:06. Doesn’t it boil at this voltage? No matter how much I charged, it always boils above 14.8. Different types of batteries have different final full charge voltage. I only found out about this a couple of years ago when I was trying to restore a maintenance-free battery with “silver” plates.

For a whole month I drove it with automatic charging for classic batteries (which turns off at 14.5 V), and all to no avail - the battery did not restore capacity and density. I went to Google and searched for a long time and found that such a battery needs to be brought to 16V with a small current during restoration. I simply connected the 19V laptop charger through a 21W light bulb (to limit the current), and brought it up to 16V. By the way, the first small bubbles appeared just at 16B. The density was restored, and now for the second year the battery is alive and well (and I was already planning to throw it away).

PS On "thieves" chargers there are special modes "winter charge", "recovery charge", "AGM battery" in which the charge voltage reaches 14.8-16V. Here is an example of CTEK MXS 5.0 Charge voltage: 14.4V Normal, 14.7V Cold/AGM, 15.8V Recond PS 2 The main thing is not to overexpose the battery when the voltage is high; when it is reached, you must immediately turn it off. Well, be guided by the type of battery, simple classic lead batteries, such a high voltage is not needed. I don’t recommend taking this Orion PW 415, it doesn’t charge the battery normally. I drove it and drove it - it seemed to raise it to 13.5, when I came I put 12.5 on the car. As soon as I started the car, Gena realized that the battery was not charged and gave it as much as 15 volts. Although if it is charged it will give a maximum of 13V.

And besides, the device kept dropping the current, having undercharged the battery. But I’ll make a reservation: I have AGM in which there is no acid in liquid form and I may have different sensations. ABC asked a question, saying, “I didn’t buy such an expensive battery but didn’t buy a charger.” There were two reasons: 1) I didn’t have to charge anything during normal use; it charges 2-3 times faster than the acidic one. In general, there are no problems like “remove the battery and let it fully charge before winter” or “during short trips in winter the battery does not charge.”

The fact that it charges quickly is clearly visible, I sat on the light for 10 minutes and it rose from 11.8V to 12.5V - only 10 minutes! I sat for 20 minutes - it was already 13.5V. 2) I didn’t know if it was possible to charge my battery, because acid-based batteries boil with electrolyte when charging, but I don’t have it, the acid is in the impregnation. What will boil??? Does the impregnation swell? But as it turned out later, acidic = AGM in terms of charging, they say you just don’t need to exceed the current of 14.4 - don’t allow it to boil.

(but I don’t believe this, I think they’re being clever, because in winter and summer my generator gave it 15V and everything was ok) I still think that AGM charging (and even a normal acidic person) needs the 5th leg of a donkey. The car does this well. But under force majeure circumstances - there are such cases - that you have to charge.

Or when it’s really only 1 km from work to home and the frost is below -30. It’s like carrying tools with you in the trunk, they have not been needed in the car for a long time, and 99% do not carry them, but there are force majeure cases when there is even nothing to remove the battery terminal with - and then you remember that it seems necessary. I've been using this one for 3 years, there are instructions for it, I had to read it. The thing is great, but when you need to charge a 12-volt battery well, you put the switch to 24V and voila, for a 12V battery it works not like an automatic machine, but according to the amperes you set. I periodically recharge 220-190 batteries with it without removing it from the car, it’s very convenient. It produces a maximum of 15 amps of charging in a non-automatic charge; this is a 12-volt battery with a switch on the 24-volt charger. But charging at 24V (two batteries of 190-220Ah) with the charger switch set to 24 volt mode occurs in automatic mode. And it turns out, as you did with the AGM, it starts well and quickly finishes charging 158.3K 285 Number of downloads.

By the way, the first small bubbles appeared just at 16B. Bubbles in calcium begin to be clearly visible already from 14.3-14.8 V, what was the current? From 16 V it is more likely to harm the battery. A simple charger will also achieve the battery, the main thing is that it does not turn off at 14.5, and there is a reserve of time. In the video, some kind of garbage! The density is 1.22 and the current does not take at 14.7, the speed is full., most likely, the charging is clumsy and lies on the voltage! and the current measurement error is high (does not show low current), because The density increased at 0 current.

Charger UZS-P-6/12-6.3 UHL 3.1 "Rassvet-2" Designed for charging and recharging batteries of passenger cars and motorcycles.

The Rassvet-2 charger produces a charge with a stabilized current in any of two modes:

In manual mode - charge 6 V and 12 V lead-acid batteries.
In automatic mode - charge and recharge 12 V lead-acid batteries.

The Rassvet-2 charger has electronic protection against short circuits at its output and incorrect (polarity) connection to the battery terminals.

In addition, "Rassvet-2" allows you to determine the degree of charge of the battery, the serviceability of the battery, and the polarity of the battery terminals if there are no markings on them.

Charger UZ-12-6 UHL3.1 "Rassvet-2M" Designed for charging and recharging serviceable acid-acid batteries of passenger cars with a rated voltage of 12V and 40-75 Ah.

The device charges rechargeable batteries in a mode close to the “constant voltage” mode, which ensures their safety and durability. The Rassvet-2M charger has short circuit protection for electrical circuits.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DAWN-2 memory

The Rassvet-2 charger for car batteries is made in the form of a separate unit, closed by a housing from exposure to bad weather and moisture. A power transformer, powerful control thyristors on radiators, a charge current stabilization board and thyristor control board, terminals for connecting a charged battery and a power switch are attached to the base of the case. Thyristors operating in switching mode are used as powerful control elements.

Technical characteristics of chargers "RASSVET-2" and "RASSVET-2M"

	DAWN-2	DAWN-2M
Rated supply voltage, V
Frequency, Hz
Rated voltage of batteries being charged, V
Charging current in "4A max" mode, A - maximum - minimal
Charging current in "6A max" mode, A - maximum - minimal
Rated current value, A
Current adjustment is smooth, in the range, A
Operating temperature range
Overall dimensions, mm
Weight, kg
Electricity consumption, kWh, no more

.

ORDER OF USE OF THE DAWN-2 charger

5.1.3. A fuse is installed under cover 12. Cover 12 is attached to the body with 1 screw. To provide access to the fuse when replacing it, it is necessary to remove cover 12.

Note. Due to the continuous improvement of the ultrasonic design, there may be minor differences in the product from the one described above.

5.2. Functionality check:

5.2.1 To check the functionality of the ultrasound system, you must:
1) set handle 5 to the extreme left position;
2) press the 3-manual operating mode button.
3) connect the power cord 9 to the network, and the network indicator 6 should light up;
4) connect to terminals AND a 12 V car lamp with a power of 21 W (21 cd);
5) press the “Control” button 4 and, without releasing it, turn knob 5 clockwise, while the lamp and current indicator 7 should light up. When button 3 is pressed - automatic operating mode - the lamp glow will pulsate.

6. PREPARATION AND OPERATION PROCEDURE

6.1. After storing the ultrasonic device in the cold or after transporting it in winter conditions, before connecting it to the network, keep it at room temperature for 4 hours.

6.2. Set button 3 to the position of the required operating mode “Auto” (automatic) or “Manual” (manual). Connect clamps 11 to the battery terminals according to the markings. Connect power cord 9 to the network.

6.3. Charge 12V and 6V batteries manually:

6.3.1. Use knob 5 to set the required charging current, the value of which must correspond to that specified in the instructions for the battery. If there is current, indicator 7 should light up. The voltage value is set automatically and will increase as the battery charges, keeping the current constant.

Notes:
I. The voltage of serviceable lead-acid 6V batteries increases at the end of their charge to 8.1V, 12V - to 16.2V
2. A sign of the end of the battery charge is abundant gas evolution, constant voltage and electrolyte density in all batteries for two hours.
3. The difference in the density of the electrolyte of a fully charged battery in each battery should not exceed 0.01 g/cm 3 . If the difference exceeds the specified value, then the electrolyte density must be adjusted.

Approximate norms for adjusting electrolyte density, g/cm 3

Required electrolyte density in battery g/cm 3	Real electrolyte density, g/cm 3
	1,15	1,16	1,17	1,18	1,19	1,20	1,21	1,22	1,23	1,24	1,25	1,26	1,27	1,28	1,29	1,30	1,31	1,32	1,33	1,34
1,24	254	220	201	181	158	133	105	74	40	0	24	47	68	87	105	112	138	153	167	181
1,26	290	275	159	241	222	200	176	149	119	84	45	0	23	44	63	82	99	115	130	145
1,28	342	330	316	301	285	266	246	223	198	169	136	97	53	0	21	41	59	77	93	108
1,30	396	385	374	362	348	333	316	242	277	253	226	194	158	115	63	0	20	38	56	72

To the left of the bold line: after removing the indicated volume of electrolyte, it is necessary to add the same amount of electrolyte with a density of 1.40 g/cm 3 .

To the right of the bold line: after removing the specified volume of electrolyte, you must add the same amount of distilled water.

6.3.2. After the battery has finished charging, disconnect the power cord 9 from the network and the load cables from the battery.

6.4. Charging and recharging a 12 V battery in automatic mode:

6.4.1. Install handle 5 according to the instructions in the previous section.
6.4.2. In automatic mode, charging current is supplied to the battery cyclically. The duration of the current cycle is 5..35 s. During the flow of current, indicator 7 lights up. Between current cycles there is a dead pause, during which indicator 7 does not light up. As the battery charges, the pause increases from 0.5...1 s, with the battery discharged to 50% - to 0.5...2 minutes, and 6 more at the end of its charge (battery charge is 95...100%).
6.4.3. If after charging for 0.5...2 hours (depending on the state of charge of the battery) the pause does not increase, then this is a sign of a faulty battery

SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM OF THE RASSVET-2 charger

In the section on the question How to properly charge the battery from the Dawn 2 charger? given by the author Inkvisitor the best answer is Look at the battery capacity and divide by 10 to get the charging current!
So 60 a/h means a current of 6 amperes, but in general the slower the better, it’s usually good to charge at 2 amperes
ArtoriuS
Guru
(4073)
I don’t trust automation, it’s better to calculate how much time it takes to charge such a capacity at such a current and just monitor!)
For example, 60 a/h at 2A is 30 hours, if there is such an option to wait so long, then it’s better, but the automation first gives a strong current, and then gradually reduces it and at the end of charging it’s strong again, it just turns out faster, but how effective are these experiments? need to install! =)

Reply from Alexey Zolotov[guru]
until sunset... two))

Reply from Andrey Kostin[guru]
In automatic mode, the charging current itself decreases and will be 0 when the battery is charged, set the initial current to 4-5A.
In manual mode, you need to gradually reduce the current (the correct cycle is 4-5A - 10 minutes, 3A - 30 minutes 2A - 2-3 hours 1A 1 hour for a total of 4-5 hours with a completely discharged battery)

Reply from Alexander Chipizubov[expert]
Is it possible to charge it incorrectly? If the battery is 12 V, the rectifier is 12 V and in the front, and if it is 1 A, you will charge it for 6 years.

Reply from Evgeniy Mamonov[newbie]

Structurally, the charger (charger) is made in the form of a separate unit, closed by a housing from exposure to bad weather and moisture. A power transformer, high-power control thyristors on radiators, a charge current stabilization board and thyristor control board, terminals for connecting the battery being charged with wires with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2 ("+" on the case) and a power switch are attached to the base of the case. rice. 1.

The control and stabilization board is installed on the front panel of the case in such a way that the charge mode switch buttons - "Manual - Automatic" and charge activation - fall into a specially cut groove and are easily switched. A manual charge current regulator (Rp) is also located on the front panel. The control board diagram is shown in Fig. 2.

Specification of components (in Bulgarian, but in my opinion everything is clear and does not require translation).

1. Transistori:

a/ VT1 and VT10 = KT209 or BC557
b/ VT3 and VT7 = KT315D
c/ VT2, VT4, VT5, VT6, VT8 and VT9 = KT361D or VS557

2. Diodi:

a/ VD13 = KC147 /cener/
b/ VD19 = D816D /cener/
v/ VD5 = LED, Russian, /cherven/
g/ VD6 = LED, Russian, /green/
d/ VS1 and VS2 = KU202L
e/ VD1-VD4, VD8, VD9, VD12, VD15-VD18 = D226V or 1N4003

3. Resistance /resistor/:

a/ Rp /potentiometer installed/ = 4.7k
b/ Ra / trimer-potentiometer for charging current, Imax = 6.3 A/ = 3.3k
in/ Ru / trimer-potentiometer for the maximum limit on the discharge at auto. cycle 13.9V/ = 3.3k
g/ resistors 1W:
R4 = 150ohm, 1W;
R8 = 300ohm, 1W;
R12 = 1k, 1W

d/ Resistance 0.25W:

R1, R3, R21, R23 = 3.6k;
R2 = 510 ohm;
R5, R10 = 20k;
R6, R7, R13, R24 = 1k;
R11 = 75k;
R14 = 3k;
R18, R19, R25 = 10k;
R22 = 9.1k;
R26 = 300ohm
R27 = 51k;

4. Capacitors

C1, C2, C3 = 0.1 µF, 160 V
C4 = 20 µF, 16 V;
C5, C6 = 100 µF, 25 V;
C7 = 20 µF, 50 V

The appearance of the printed circuit board is shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3.

And the view of the board from the wiring side is in Fig. 4.

Rice. 4.

Any power of 180-250 W can be used as a power transformer, producing an alternating voltage of ~16...22 V and rated for a current of 6...10 A.

In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the high reliability of the circuit - since thyristors operating in switching mode are used as powerful control elements.