The VAZ 2110 injector signal does not work. Repair of sound signals on VAZ cars of various modifications. Methods for troubleshooting

The absence of a sound signal on a car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to promptly warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, directly with the horn, can help avoid creating an emergency situation or an accident.

A malfunction such as the absence of a sound signal on VAZ family cars is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to carry out the necessary checks.

VAZ sound signal diagram

Although the connection diagrams are slightly different on “classics” and front-wheel drive VAZ cars, they are very similar. The only difference is in the relay markings and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 - 20.3721-01);
Battery;
Fuse box (1 per signal);
Horn switch (steering wheel button);
DC generator;
Sound signal circuit for VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with relay:

Sound signals S-309 and S-308;
Battery;
Generator;
Fuse box;
Horn button on the steering wheel;
Horn relay RS – 528;
Diagram of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

Diagram of sound signals VAZ 2108

Sound signal;
Fuse and relay mounting block;
Steering wheel button;
Diagram for switching on the sound signal of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

Sound horn;
Power button on the steering wheel;
Mounting block with fuse (no relay)
Scheme for turning on the sound signal on VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

Fuse and relay mounting block (control and comfort unit);
Horn button on the steering wheel;
Sound signal;

Replacement and repair of VAZ sound signal

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blocking of the sound membrane and, as a result, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes you can restore functionality by spraying the signal with WD-40 or a similar composition.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tones, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore requires replacement. As a rule, many signals are equipped with a tone adjustment screw, and if there are wheezing, grinding and other unwanted sound effects, you can use the adjustment to achieve a suitable sound. Also, with their help, you can move the “soured” membrane, thereby restoring the functionality of the signal.

Malfunctions of the electrical signal circuit:

No signal:

1) check the presence of incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, “plus” is constant, but the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the horn, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable and must be replaced if they fail);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

The signal wheezes or disappears:

Adjustment required;

The sound signal appears spontaneously when turning the steering wheel:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (too much “pressed” towards the steering wheel);

2) Ground circuit on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some KALINA and PRIORA models, the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, acts as a security system and alarm), and some reasons for the malfunction of the signals may be associated with it.

VAZ sound signal diagram

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 – 20.3721-01);
Battery;
Fuse box (1 per signal);
Horn switch (steering wheel button);
DC generator;

Sound signal circuit for VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with relay:

Sound signals S-309 and S-308;
Battery;
Generator;
Fuse box;
Horn button on the steering wheel;
Horn relay RS – 528;

Diagram of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

Sound signal;
Fuse and relay mounting block;
Steering wheel button;

Diagram for switching on the sound signal of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

Sound horn;
Power button on the steering wheel;
Mounting block with fuse (no relay)

Scheme for turning on the sound signal on VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

Fuse and relay mounting block (control and comfort unit);
Horn button on the steering wheel;
Sound signal;

Replacement and repair of VAZ sound signal

Malfunctions of the electrical signal circuit:

– no signal:

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

– the signal wheezes or disappears:

Adjustment required;

– the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (too much “pressed” towards the steering wheel);

2) Ground circuit on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some KALINA and PRIORA models, the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, acts as a security system and alarm), and some reasons for the malfunction of the signals may be associated with it.

Every car must have a working horn. Thanks to the horn, the driver can prevent an emergency situation on the road and avoid a possible collision. But it often happens that the horn refuses to work. For what reasons does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work and how to fix this problem - read below.

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Possible malfunctions: signs and causes

There are several signs of a malfunctioning sound signal on a VAZ 2110 or 2112:

The sound signal has disappeared. The driver presses the steering wheel or the corresponding button located on it, but there is no beep.
The beep appears and disappears. When the driver presses the steering wheel, the signal may start to work, but then immediately disappears.

There may be several reasons why the horn refuses to function:

One of the most common reasons is the failure of a safety device. In this case, the integrity of the horn itself will not be compromised, which greatly simplifies the repair procedure.
Failure of the horn itself. If after replacing the safety device the sound does not appear, then you can try to check the functionality of the horn by dismantling it and directly connecting it to the battery. If the device is working, then when connected to the battery it will begin to emit a corresponding signal.
The reason may also be a short circuit in the vehicle's on-board network.
Another cause of the problem may be worn out clamping contacts located on the steering column. This problem often occurs in the cars of our compatriots. In any case, the clamping contacts wear out over time due to use; this cannot be prevented. As an option, you can try to increase the service life of the contacts; to do this, they need to be treated with graphite lubricant from time to time.
Worn slip ring on the steering wheel. As stated above, there is no escape from wear and tear, so sooner or later every car owner will face such a problem. As in the previous case, you can try to increase the service life of the slip ring by applying graphite lubricant to it.
Oxidation of contacts on the steering wheel. With prolonged use, deposits will begin to accumulate on the internal contacts, which makes it impossible to transmit the impulse to activate the horn.

Methods for troubleshooting

If the horn circuit is broken and the horn stops working, then there are several options for solving the problem:

First you need to diagnose the safety device. If this part is burnt out, then you just need to replace it with a new one; the device is located in the mounting block. The replacement process will not take much time; any car enthusiast can cope with this task.
If replacing the fuse gave results, but after some time the horn stopped working again, then most likely the reason lies in voltage surges in the on-board network. Overload contributes to accelerated burnout of the fuse element, so you will have to look for the source of the load and solve the problem. To do this, use a multimeter or seek help from an electrician.
If the horn itself malfunctions, the device must be replaced. If diagnostics by direct connection to the battery do not produce results, then most likely the reason lies in the device itself, which needs to be changed.
Short circuit. To diagnose, you will need a multimeter and a little experience. Using a tester, you can find a short circuit, but if you have never encountered such a problem before, it is better to seek help from specialists.
If the clamping contacts or slip ring are worn out, then the failed elements must be replaced. It is not a fact that you will be able to buy new contacts or a ring, so most likely you will have to change the horn assembly.
Another reason why the horn does not work is oxidation of the internal contacts. Over time, as mentioned above, dirt and deposits accumulate on them, which leads to the obstruction of sound. You can try to disassemble the steering wheel of the car, then clean the internal contacts and assemble the steering wheel (the author of the video is the channel Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

If you are faced with the problem of a non-working horn, then you will probably be wondering how to replace it:

First of all, you need to remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the trim and unscrew the bolts that secure the steering wheel.
After the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks, perhaps this will help solve the problem. Make sure that the wire contacts in the column are as clean as possible.
Unscrew the two screws located under the plastic cover. After dismantling the cover, you will be able to see the contact plate; there is a possibility that the problem lies there. Clean the contacts and check the signal functionality. If the horn does not work, then using a 24mm wrench you will need to unscrew the nut, but you do not need to unscrew it all the way.
Next, the steering wheel itself must be pulled towards you; this will require some effort. You can try to move the wheel by tapping it from different sides. When you feel that the steering wheel has given way, the nut is unscrewed completely.
After dismantling the steering wheel, we proceed to removing the horn. There is a module located under the radiator grille; it must be removed; to do this, unscrew the nut to 13 and disconnect the connector.
Install a new one, replace the steering wheel and check the operation of the horn.

Photo gallery “Removing the steering wheel and replacing the horn”

Is a Volga horn good?

Is it possible to use a signal from the Volga in the “ten”, how to install it and how to connect it yourself? In the VAZ 2110 it is allowed to install a Volga horn, and the latter can be either old or new model. There is no particular difference between these details, except that the tonality will be slightly different. And, of course, the cost. But keep in mind that installation by simply replacing the device will not work.

The bottom line is that two cables are connected to the standard device - one with a negative output, which comes from the button on the steering wheel, and the other with a positive one. The latter is permanently connected; it also powers the ventilation device of the radiator unit. And in Volga devices, only one cable is used - positive, since the mass in this case is supplied through the body, that is, from the attachment to the vehicle body. In addition, you must also take into account that both systems use different current consumers - the standard options require no more than 5 amperes, while the Volga ones require 8 amperes each. The result is 16 amperes (the author of the video is Master Bruce).

Accordingly, to properly connect a product from Volga to a VAZ 2110, you will need a four-pin relay; you have several options for installing it:

in the vehicle interior, in the mounting block with fuses;
in the engine compartment, but in this case, please note that the relay should be securely insulated to prevent moisture from entering.

The feasibility of self-repair

So does it make sense to repair the horn yourself? If we take into account the recommendations described above, then the repair is advisable only if the car owner is as careful as possible when performing it. After all, during the repair work, there is a high probability that an inexperienced car enthusiast will damage the wiring in the unit or connect the contacts incorrectly. Therefore, if you have never encountered a repair procedure before, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists or simply replace the horn assembly.

A non-functioning horn on a car is a very dangerous malfunction. The most unpleasant thing is that they find out about this breakdown just when the signal is needed most - in a dangerous situation on the road. What could cause the signal to fail?

There are several reasons why the horn may stop working. Almost all of them are electrical and simply involve no contact where it should be. Let's go through them all:

Horn fuse blown

The very first and easiest check that can be performed when the sound signal is not working is the integrity of the fuse. If it turns out to be burnt, then it is possible in the car. Try inserting a whole fuse corresponding to the rating (). If it burns out in the same way, it means there is actually a short circuit. If not, then perhaps the fuse has simply exhausted its resource and you should pay attention to other reasons.

The horn button does not work

The signal in most cars is turned on by a button in the center of the steering wheel. There are variations with a button in the steering column switch or a certain position of this switch itself, but this is rare.

There are actually a whole bunch of places inside the steering wheel where contact can be lost, leading to the failure of the horn. To understand exactly where they can be located, you need to understand how the sound signal in the car turns on. Let's look at the diagram.

Diagram for connecting an audio signal via a relay

This circuit assumes the presence of a signal activation relay. This relay is found on all modern cars. On a certain category of cars (for example, VAZ classics), there is no relay. In this case, the signal is connected directly through the button on the steering wheel.

The control current from the relay is transmitted from the steering column to the steering wheel through a floating contact. There may be one, or maybe two. These contacts rub against a special conductive ring built into the steering wheel at the point where it is attached to the steering shaft. Due to the fact that the contacts are spring-loaded, they are constantly pressed against the ring, ensuring the transmission of current to the steering wheel in any position.

ATTENTION! It is better to entrust all work related to disassembling the steering wheel on cars with airbags to a car service center. Unskilled actions can cause the airbag to deploy, which can lead to life-threatening injuries!

— Worn contacts

The pressure contacts on the steering column rub against the slip ring whenever you move the steering wheel and wear out over time. Sooner or later, a moment may come when they can no longer reach the contact ring on the steering wheel and then pressing the horn button will lead to nothing. To avoid this, during any repairs it is necessary to lubricate the contacts and the ring on the steering wheel with a conductive lubricant, for example, graphite. Such treatment will reduce the friction of the contacts on the ring and extend their service life.

— Worn slip ring

Exactly the same malfunction can befall the conductive ring in the steering wheel. It can also wear out and lead to signal failure. The method of struggle is the same - lubricant.

The wear of the clamping contacts or slip ring has an insidious property: due to uneven wear, the contact may disappear only at certain steering wheel positions. For example, when driving straight, the signal works, but when turning, it does not. Such symptoms almost always clearly indicate problems in the contact pair “steering column - steering wheel”.

Worn contacts and a ring in the steering wheel, as a rule, cannot be repaired. Therefore, the best solution is to replace these elements with new ones.

— Oxidized contacts inside the steering wheel

Another “steering” problem is the oxidation of internal contacts. Due to the large amount of oxides, a sufficient amount of current cannot pass through the contacts inside the steering wheel and the sound signal is silent. You need to disassemble the steering wheel and clean the contacts.

Horn relay or wiring failure

The next group of reasons for a malfunctioning sound signal is broken wiring or a failed relay. The wires in the signal power circuit can be simply broken, pinched, or even disconnected during major repairs. Often during reassembly, the wires are connected incorrectly or not connected at all. Make sure that all wires responsible for the signal are connected correctly. On a number of cars, the horn is located too low, which is why it ends up in slush and water during transitional seasons. Mixtures that are used to sprinkle roads against ice in winter are also added here. Under such conditions, the signal itself can oxidize and even rot the wires. Check this place out.

If your car has a horn relay, then it is worth checking it. Find where this relay is located using your car's complete wiring diagram and do an experiment: press the horn button and listen. If the relay clicks, it means it is probably working properly. Silent - you need to check the presence of voltage at the relay control contacts when the button is pressed.

Failed horn

If the relay still clicks, check for voltage on the signal itself. Here you will have to work with an assistant: one holds the signal button, and the other checks the voltage. The test can be done with a regular test light or a multimeter, which is more reliable. The multimeter is able to show a weak voltage, which will be a sign of heavily oxidized contacts in the signal power circuit or.

If voltage arrives, the “mass” signal wire has no oxides and is securely connected to the body, and the signal is silent, it means it has burned out. In this case, as a rule, the “beep” has to be replaced.

Operating a car with a faulty sound signal is prohibited.. At the same time, on cars of the “tenth” family, the horn may stop working for no apparent reason. Potential “+12” is connected to one of the horn wires. And the second terminal should close to ground when the key is pressed. Let's look at why the signal on the VAZ-2112 does not work, and for this we will check the control points.

Sometimes it is possible to restore contact with ground without removing the steering wheel. An example is shown in the video.

The owners of cars of the “tenth” family are to some extent lucky: but there is only a switch. The proof is given below.

Standard wiring diagram

The first step is to check fuse F7. In the mounting block it is in the top row (seventh from the left).

Voltage “+12” is applied to one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

If the fuse is good, potential “+12” should be at one of the horn terminals. Let's take a look under the hood...

Audio module connector

Disconnect the connector and check both terminals with a tester. We connect the second probe of the voltmeter to the negative of the battery.

The standard reason why the signal does not work on the VAZ-2112 is this: the “positive” voltage is connected, but the contact with the “ground” is broken. Most often the problem lies in the switch.

We diagnose the sound signal

It all starts with the connector pins:

Let's say the voltage “+12” is not caused on both contacts. Then look for a short circuit or break point, starting from terminal 6-Ш5 (diagram above).
If positive voltage is received, check the second terminal. It will contact ground when you press the horn button. During this check, the battery must be disconnected.
If the previous two steps are completed successfully, then voltage is supplied to the horn. It may need to be replaced or the contacts cleaned.

Removing the steering wheel

If “step 2” is not successful, you need to remove the steering wheel. The two copper strips should “close” when pressed - everything is clear here. The test is carried out with an ohmmeter, and if necessary, the switch is replaced.

Steering wheel after dismantling

When the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks. The wire contacts in the column must also be clean.

Dismantling from start to finish

First you need to unscrew the two screws under the trim. Having removed the plastic, you can see the contact plate - perhaps that was the problem.

First step in dismantling

Try cleaning the contacts and performing “step 2” again. If there is no result, take a 24mm wrench and unscrew one nut (not all the way).

The steering wheel needs to be knocked off its splines

The steering wheel is pushed towards itself. And then the nut can be unscrewed completely.

When installing, follow one rule. The protrusion on the bracket should fit into the slot made in the plastic ring (see photo).

Steering wheel installation (first step)

How to remove a faulty signal (horn)

There is a single module mounted under the radiator grille. To remove it, unscrew one nut (key “13”). First disconnect the connector.

Dismantling, adjustment before installation

It will be necessary to remove the grille. This action is difficult to perform on both the “Ten” and even on the VAZ-2112, and the signal may not work due to faulty wiring. First achieve what was discussed in “step 3”. And only then, if necessary, proceed with replacement.

One adjusting screw is fixed to the horn body. Set it to the middle position and check.

Removing the radiator grille

The article number of the new radiator grille is 2110-8401014 (or 8401614, or 8401714).